It's a bit hot this morning, isn't it?
The AC’s not working, can’t turn on the lights, no power in the neighborhood!
The cook tells us she can’t boil water or cook eggs, so we’ll have to make do with bread, jam, and biscuits...
The credit card’s useless too, so we start pulling out some cash when the electricity comes back!
It’s only when you don’t have something that you realize how essential the things you take for granted really are.
Today’s leg involves crossing almost the entire country to its southern border.
Another nearly 300 kilometers to cover, but at least it’s all paved this time.
The Lenin Peak is worth the effort!
We also make a detour to visit the wonders of Uzgen—a minaret and mausoleums dating back to the medieval era.
The local Christo wannabe has been here too, and we regret the kilometers we drove just to see some sheet metal.
We’re now in the Ferghana Valley, a very fertile and densely populated agricultural plain.
The fields are yellow and dry, and it’s stifling.
We can’t wait to get back to the mountains.
The road is pretty busy—it’s a major route to Tajikistan and especially China, the start of the Pamir Highway.
There are quite a few cargo trucks, which makes the climb up the Chyiyrchyk Pass (2,400 m) a bit annoying.
The climate’s more pleasant, though, and the landscapes regain their charm!
We’re now in sight of Gulcha, the last town with gas stations offering 95 octane.
We fill up the tank to the brim so we don’t have to worry about it until the day after tomorrow!
The road then takes us up to the Taldyk Pass (3,600 m)—time to break out the fleece.
And to keep our eyes wide open...
Now we’re in sight of the Alay Valley, a long glacial valley wedged between two mountain ranges: the Tian Shan to the north and the Pamir to the south.
This valley sits at around 3,000 meters above sea level and is surrounded by towering snow-capped peaks that make Mont Blanc look like a dwarf.
Lenin Peak, for example, rises to 7,134 meters above sea level!
It’s the easiest 7,000-meter peak to climb—or at least the least difficult—and it’ll get a bit crowded on its slopes in a few weeks.
No way we’re attempting that adventure—we’ll just admire it from afar!
But for now, no Lenin Peak in sight. Just a village, Sary-Tash, a town whose only real draw is its location.
Stunning, isn’t it?
To the left, the road heads toward China; to the right, toward Tajikistan.
We take the left one for about 30 kilometers until we reach the local Chamonix—Sary-Mogul.
Well, the Chamonix of 200 years ago...
A few long dusty streets, some guesthouses, two mosques, and a handful of shops.
Don’t forget to stock up on everything before ending up here!
We park at the hotel parking lot (the photo on Google Maps is completely wrong...) and go check out our room.
It’s a recent construction attached to the original guesthouse.
The rooms are small, and the furnishings are a bit of a hodgepodge, but it’s clean, there are private bathrooms, and most importantly, there’s an incredible view from the bed!
Lenin’s bald head is currently in the clouds, but I hope to catch a glimpse of it before we leave!
We go for a long walk to the last houses in the village, then head back for dinner.
It won’t be a feast, but at least the prices are reasonable here!
5 € per person.
Strange—this is the guesthouse farthest from any city on the whole trip...
The sun’s setting, and so are we.
Hey! Look, the sky’s clearing up!
I don’t regret the kilometers we drove to get to this remote corner at all!
