Three weeks in Japan with the family (page 8 of 9)

undoubtedly if it's a Setouchi Triennale year, a few extra days in the Seto Inland Sea to visit Shodoshima, Ogijima, or even push on to Takamatsu;

2019 is a Triennale year, but I can't see how to make the most of it in just one or two days. I'd say one or two weeks instead 😛 Besides, I'm wondering if it won't be my 2019 destination—I've always wanted to visit the olive groves of Shodoshima...

Hi there,

We totally agree—the Triennale deserves more than just a day or two, which is why I suggested three days plus a few more. That should add up to about a week. 😛 Of course, you could easily spend even longer there. It seems like there’s so much to see!

Hello,

In response to a question received via PM

Hello

Thank you for your very interesting travel journal. May I ask you a few questions? I’m planning a family trip for October with a 15-year-old teen, and we were thinking of visiting Naoshima. Would you also recommend stopping by Teshima? We’re also going to Hiroshima and then Miyajima. I’d love any tips you might have if you’ve got a few minutes. Have a great day! Annabel

Without a doubt, I’d spend a day on Teshima. It’s really the island we enjoyed the most. It’s much less crowded and more natural. Just don’t forget to rent electric bikes! Naoshima and Teshima complement each other nicely. We would’ve enjoyed our time on the islands a lot less without Teshima.

Hi there!

Our trip will be different from yours in terms of duration and our fierce determination to abandon our kids to their bleak academic fate (they’re actually a bit young for such a long trip).

That said, many of your stops are similar to ours, especially Ainokura for the night—I’m torn between staying there or in Gokayama. Did it really live up to your expectations, or should I go for its more touristy big brother instead?

Hi Bluequark 🙂

"It’s simple, since they have ten fingers, they count in base 10. Otherwise, they do everything differently from us."

And they even manage to start with a different finger than we do 😉.

Thanks for this lovely travel journal—it’s reignited my desire to go back... ughhh 😛 🙂

Hi there,

If I had to do it again, I’d do exactly the same: a walk and overnight stay in Ainokura and a visit to Shiragawa-go. Ainokura feels more intimate and like a real village.

Hello Jean-François,

Thanks for the note. Your travel journal really helped with my prep. But no Saiho-ji for us—one of my many regrets. I was lucky enough to return to Japan twice since then, including once last January, and—what a stroke of luck—I spent the weekend in Nikko (even with a little snow). It was great. I’ll try to post some photos. I think I’ll plan a winter trip to Japan.

Good evening everyone,

After a looong break, I’m trying to finish this travel journal.

Friday, August 19: Tsukiji, Hama-Rikyu-Onshi-Teien, Asakusa and Senso-ji, Kappabashi, Ameyoko, and Ueno

We hesitated a bit before planning a visit to Tsukiji, the famous fish market. Unless you snag one of the available spots for the 5:30 AM tuna auction—which requires lining up much earlier—tourists can only enter starting at 10 AM. By then, the market is already closing. Still, Tsukiji is the world’s largest wholesale fish market. Made of brick and odds and ends, it’s set to move to Toyosu, another artificial island in Tokyo Bay. It won’t be around much longer, so since we’re in Tokyo, we might as well take advantage while we can.

When we arrived, there weren’t many fish left on the stalls, but wandering through all the chaos was fun. You can’t exactly call it cutting-edge modern or even hygienic—the area is apparently infested with over 5,000 rats.

You’ve got to be careful not to linger in the aisles: carts zip by at high speed, and you don’t want to get in their way. No wonder visits are discouraged (or even banned, I’m not sure) with kids. The market was closing, but it was still lively. This place is pretty unique, and we don’t regret visiting at all.

About a ten-minute walk from the market, Hama-Rikyu-Onshi-Teien is a garden that’s really pleasant to stroll through.

It offers some unusual views.



And it’s clearly a popular spot for wedding photos.



We wandered around there for a while.

Following David's advice, we then take the river shuttle that goes up the Sumida River and takes us to Asakusa. The city slowly unfolds before our eyes.

The bridges, Tokyo Skytree



And the urban highways.

Indeed, unless you manage to grab one of the spots available for the 5:30 AM tuna auction—but you’d have to line up way before that—tourists can no longer enter until 10 AM.

That’s even less possible now since it closed in October 2018 😛 !

It's even less possible today since it closed in October 2018

Indeed, I hinted at it just below, but thanks to those who wouldn’t bother to check. It’ll save them from being disappointed.

I’ll continue.

After grabbing a quick meal at one of Ichiran’s ramen restaurants—a chain we discovered in Hiroshima—we headed to the tourist office. Besides the various maps you can pick up there, the real highlight is the top floor and the view it offers…

…of the Asahi Beer Hall, headquarters of Asahi Breweries. The building looks like a giant beer mug, and that golden thing? I think it’s supposed to be the beer foam. The whole thing was designed by Philippe Starck.



…and of Senso-ji, Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist temple and one of the city’s "must-sees."



To get there, we walked down Nakamise-dori, a long shopping street with over 90 stores selling food and souvenirs, packed side by side for 250 meters. We saw plenty of pilgrims, but also the kind of tourist crowds you’d find in Kyoto. It was way too packed, so we took the side alleys instead.

After a quick visit to the temple (it was *really* crowded), we kept walking toward Kappabashi, the street famous for kitchen supplies. Along the way, we caught a glimpse of Hanayashiki, the vintage amusement park, but didn’t stop.

With its 160 shops, Kappabashi is a real treat. You can find everything a restaurateur could dream of: pots, tableware, and above all—our main attraction as tourists—shops selling *sampuru*, those famous plastic decorations that adorn restaurant fronts. A really fun moment.







And off we go to Ueno! We start with a full tour of Yamashiroya, a 7-floor store packed with toys, gadgets, and other Japanese pop-culture goodies. Another Aladdin’s cave, but of a different kind.



Next, a quick stop at Ameyoko, a bustling market with a slightly old-school vibe—just to take a peek. The boys, exhausted, head back to the apartment while the girls try their luck in Ueno Park. They give up pretty quickly, though, as the sky grows increasingly threatening: time to take cover.

Tourist offices are so handy! 😛

Not to mention the plans 😉

Saturday, August 20: Shibuya-Yoyo Gi bis- Ikebukuro-Shinjuku (Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, Omoide-yokocho, Golden Gai)

Today, heavy rain is forecast. From breakfast, the sky is pouring: the upside is this rain really cools things down; the downside: well, it’s raining. After some hesitation, we plan the day like this: the morning will be dedicated to finishing up our visit to Shibuya’s shops, and if the weather allows, we’ll check out Ikebukuro and its cosplayers before ending in Shinjuku.

We start with the LOFT store—everything for the home and decor. Quite a few cool things, and if I lived in Japan, I’d definitely be a regular customer.

… and then we dive into a full (or nearly full) tour of 109 and 109 MEN’S—over 8 floors of fashion in each. Unmistakably unique. It’s pretty fascinating. (Photos are banned—but I didn’t notice. The upside of being nearsighted.)





We don’t forget to stop by Uniqlo, which is much more subdued—even a bit dull. I found the clothes more old-fashioned than what you’d find in France, maybe because the selection isn’t as strict. That doesn’t stop us from making a few purchases, though.

Following the tips we found on this forum, we stop for lunch at the OOTOYA chain restaurant, not far from the Apple Store. Good and cheap, indeed. And most importantly, we finally try the famous natto. Natto is a food made from fermented soybeans. It has a slimy texture with sticky strings. Its appearance and smell make it pretty unappealing. But what’s really sneaky is its taste. When you first put it in your mouth, you think, “Okay, it’s not great, but no need to make a fuss. It’s edible.” You have to wait a few seconds for it to release its full aroma—and then, honestly, it’s gross. Never had a food so deceiving.



Oh—a little shoutout for Julie Blanchin Fujita’s book “I Love Natto”: where you’ll learn all about natto and Japan in general. Highly recommend.

With our bellies full and the natto carefully avoided, we set off for Ikebukuro in search of cosplays. But first, we made a stop at Yoyogi Park to check if there was a Shinto wedding (it’s Saturday, after all). No wedding, but I almost managed to get us lost in the park while trying to explore some side paths.

Ikebukuro is a lively district with many shops specializing in cosplay and anime. Our goal for the day: the Animate stores. We were mostly hoping to spot some cosplayers. In reality, there weren’t many—if any—cosplays outside, except inside the store itself, but there were multiple floors of costumes and all kinds of goodies.

A little selection:

The kids are still a bit disappointed. Anyway, it’s time to head back on the subway to Shinjuku and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (which is free to enter) to enjoy the city views. We arrive as night falls. For dinner, we head near Shinjuku Station to Omoide Yokocho, an alley packed with small—sometimes tiny—yakitori restaurants cobbled together. The atmosphere is fun, the skewers are good, but the bill is pretty steep. I’m not sure I’d recommend it. (Generally, I think yakitori is expensive compared to other food, whether in restaurants or takeout from department stores. But here, I felt it was particularly pricey for what you get.)

We make a quick stop by Kabukicho with its neon lights before reaching Golden Gai, a preserved slice of "old Tokyo." Golden Gai is a cluster of six narrow alleys with over 200 bars, often tiny. According to guides, the clientele is mostly regulars. The vibe is fun again. No photos this time—I saw the "no photos" sign before snapping any. Here are a couple of links to see what it looks like: here or there.



We stroll around for a bit before ending our walk with a quick look at Hanazono Shrine.

If anyone has any explanations…



Hi,

I stumbled upon your post by chance. Did anyone answer your question?

Notoshin (ノトシン, in a rather angular font) is the phonetic abbreviation of ノト共栄信用金庫 (Notokyōei Shinyōkinko), a regional bank that chose a red carrot "to attract consumers' attention" (sic). Mission accomplished, right?

If you want to see what a branch looks like, copy 金沢市片町二丁目24番36号 into Google Maps (Street View).

There you go…

Seriously, it’s gross. Never seen food so treacherous.



Yum, I love natto! I just finished dinner, but it’s making me hungry—my meal for tomorrow night is all set.

We’re really hoping to spot some cosplayers.

Outside of conventions and photo shoots, it’s become super rare to see them. Even 10 years ago, it wasn’t common...

Thanks for the reply and for the link. My curiosity is satisfied now.

a regional bank that chose a red carrot "to attract consumers' attention" (sic). It worked, right?

Sure did! The proof! !