Uganda: 20 days discovering authenticity (page 8 of 9)

Hi Delphine,

Just wanted to thank you for these amazing photos and for all the time you spent sharing this trip...

Hi Delphine, Thanks 🙂. Thanks for this feedback, all the tips, and all those amazing photos! Thanks for putting this destination at the top of our next African wish-list! Yep, the whole family fell in love with your story... 😉 Yet, it wasn’t a sure thing—I hadn’t even glanced at your travel journal when it was published, stuck on my big shortcuts: 1. Uganda = focus on gorilla tracking = $3,000 for a family of 5 = way over our budget; 2. Uganda = self-drive impossible, or else "max" mode, requiring a good phone plan and traveling with mechanics, or better yet, getting your mechanic’s CAP before leaving!

Thanks to your story, I realize that the gorilla excursion can just be a drop in the bucket (a big drop, sure) in a trip, and can be nicely balanced out by several safaris in QENP, MFNP, Kidepo, rhino-, chameleon-, colobus-, or chimpanzee-tracking, boat cruises packed with sightings, waterfalls, and landscapes as diverse as they are stunning!!!

Okay, I still don’t know if it’s possible to rent a 4x4 with a driver for five people, or if, since Max’s misadventures, other rental companies with vehicles under 400,000 km have miraculously appeared, but we’re hoping—those images are dreamy!!!

If you could’ve added a day or two, where would you have gone? - Benyanyi Lake, to explore the islands more deeply, - Kibale Forest for a full-day chimpanzee tracking instead of just 1.5 hours, - The Kotido-Moroto area, - Or...?

In Kidepo, what kinds of vehicles got stuck? Thanks, Guillaume

Hi Guillaume,

For transporting your "little" family, I think Paul, the driver Delphine traveled with (Mpolapola agency), has large vehicles that could accommodate all of you. Like a long Land Cruiser with a sunroof. We’re also traveling with him, but just the two of us, in April. I can ask him about it then if you’d like and describe the vehicles for you. But you can also contact him by email if you want the info faster and directly. For the vehicle, his work, and his accommodations/meals during the tour, he charges $140 per day. The hotels are relatively affordable, but the activities and park entrance fees do make the budget climb a bit.

For Kidepo, any 4x4 can get stuck if you go the wrong place at the wrong time. A good driver will know where and when not to go unless you want to struggle to get unstuck afterward.

Hi Jean-Luc,

For transporting your "little" family, I think Paul, the driver Delphine traveled with (Mpolapola agency), has large vehicles that could fit all of you. Like a long Land Cruiser with a sunroof.

It’d be great if there were 7-seaters with a sunroof. Price-wise, it’s about the same range I’ve seen on other sites for 5-seaters, but not for Paul’s vehicles.

I can ask him about it then if you’d like and describe the vehicles for you. But you can also contact him by email if you want the info faster and directly.

I’d love to hear what you find out—whether from the parking lot or after talking to Paul. For us, it’s not urgent since this summer we’re heading to Namibia (and there are 5 of us 😛 😇), and the following summer, the wonders of the Argentine Altiplano are calling our name!

Hotels are relatively affordable, but activities and park entrance fees can really add up.

True for hotels, especially since half-board is often included—except in the heart of the parks, like in other countries... For park entries, I’ve also noted that the Rangers are strict about timing, and it’s best not to leave late 🤪😉 Anyway, thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks for putting this destination at the top of our next African wish-list! Yep, the whole family fell in love with your story... 😉

😊 Thank you so much! It really makes me happy!

Thanks to your story, I realize that the gorilla trek can just be a drop in the bucket (a big drop, sure) in a trip, and can be nicely balanced out with several safaris in QENP, MFNP, Kidepo, rhino-, chameleon-, colobus-, or chimpanzee-tracking, wildlife-rich cruises, waterfalls, and landscapes as diverse as they are stunning!!!

Uganda has a lot to offer 🙂. Whether it's the wildlife, the landscapes, or the people. It's so diverse. We found the people really charming, the landscapes simply gorgeous (and very different from one region to another), and of course, all that fantastic African wildlife we love so much.

Okay, I still don’t know if it’s possible to rent a 4x4 with a driver for five people, or if, since Max’s misadventures, other rental companies with vehicles under 400,000 km have miraculously appeared—but we’re hoping, because these images are dreamy!!!

I think it’s possible with a bit of 4x4 driving experience (which we definitely don’t have!), but we preferred to hire a guide to avoid some hassles. In Kidepo, I can confirm it was really tough with the rain—even big 4x4s were getting stuck. I’d definitely recommend contacting Paul; I’m sure he can give you some great advice.

If you’d had one or two extra days, would you have spent them at: - Benyanyi Lake, to explore the islands more, - Kibale Forest for a full-day chimpanzee tracking instead of just 1.5 hours, - the Kotido-Moroto area, - or...?

Without a doubt, a day at Sipi Falls to enjoy the scenery and go for a walk (we were at the end of our trip, and a "chill" day would’ve been perfect 😉, especially in such a beautiful setting!). A second day in the northeast (Kidepo, Kotido, Moroto) to have more time. The Fort Portal area is also stunning (in my opinion, even prettier than Lake Bunyoni). A full day in Kibale would definitely be amazing—with more time, it’s totally doable.

Don’t hesitate if you have any other questions! I hope this trip becomes a reality for you. It was also by reading a travel journal and showing some pictures to my little family that we chose this destination. 😏

Delphine

🙂 Really glad this trip report is being read! 🙂 !

For Kidepo, any 4x4 can get stuck if you drive through the wrong place at the wrong time. A good driver will know where and when not to go unless you want to struggle to get unstuck afterward.

Going in July-August makes hiring a 4x4 with a driver a solid choice, even if we love our freedom. Wouldn’t it be better to do the loop in reverse, in case heavy rains make Kitebo—or even Kotido-Moroto—inaccessible? Or is that very rare? Thanks

Going in July-August confirms the choice of a 4x4 with a driver, even if we like our freedom.

For me, it’s a shame—the Ugandans are so warm, smiling, and spontaneous. But you’re right, the catch, the only one in my eyes, is the car—it has to be reliable. 🤪

Now that tourism is developing, I think opportunities are starting to appear.

You’re referring to an "adventurous" side—yes and no. We really like guesthouses... but not only that 😉.

Uganda is more interesting for a self-drive trip than Tajikistan... just saying. With a driver, it’s tricky to stop whenever you want, like to help a guy on a motorcycle struggling to climb because it’s so overloaded... can you imagine, three *muzungus* pushing a guy on a bike?! Still going strong in the villages 😉 😎

Hi Max. Just to stir the pot a bit. This summer, we helped a guy on a motorcycle who was completely stuck in the middle of the track, even though we had a driver with us. Simply because it seemed like the right thing to do. Armindo.

Ugandans are so warm, smiling, and spontaneous.

Exactly! The drivers too 😉 (well, at least some of them). We picked up a hitchhiker with her little girl, gave a ranger a ride home from Mburu National Park after her shift, tried to help a motorist stranded on the side of the road (though we would’ve needed a tow rope to get him to the garage, and no one had one), and even took in a driver whose vehicle had broken down... just great moments 🙂. Muriel

Hello Guillaume, I’ll add my two cents... on the western part of the country, since I don’t know (yet 😉) the north and east.

If you could’ve added a day or two, you would’ve done it at:

We would’ve added a day in Kibale without hesitation—to hike around the lakes and visit the big local market held there on Thursdays (on top of the chimpanzees and Bigodi). I also really liked Bunyony (even though I hadn’t planned to stay at first) for its super zen vibe (which might not suit you 😏). The lodge (I think they all do) organized boat trips, of course (from 1 hour to a full day), as well as treks of different lengths (I didn’t think to take a photo of the activities list). Staying 2 nights gives you at least a full day. Finally, if you didn’t have Delphine’s luck of spotting a shoebill at every marsh corner, you can plan a trip to Mabamba Swamp near Entebbe. In short, you need more than a month to see everything at a relaxed pace if you add the east and north 😎.

The minimum age for gorilla trekking is 16. For chimpanzees, I’d say 12, but I’m not entirely sure (maybe older)... something to consider for Tim. Muriel

Hi Guillaume,

and the following summer, the wonders of the Argentine Altiplano are too tempting!

Argentina has also been catching our eye for a while now, and it might well be on the agenda soon. It has the advantage of appealing to my wife, who’s getting a bit tired of animals in Southern Africa (yes, already...😕 I don’t get it either😕). 2021 could be a good time.... We’ll talk about it more. Jean Luc

Hi Delphine,

Until now, my partner and I only had vague plans for Uganda that kept getting postponed. Your travel journal turned them into a firm decision—we’re now preparing for an (ornithology) safari in September or October with our tour operator.

Thanks so much for such a generous and convincing share!

Bernard

Hi there,

Based on the latest info I have (November 2019/UWA source), the minimum age for Gorilla Tracking is 15 years old; you can book on the site... For Chimpanzees, the required age is the same: 15 years old; apparently, no exceptions are possible... We’ll be there in a month and can confirm these details if needed

Hi

Yeah, I wasn’t really sure about the minimum ages either. Booking on the site is possible... in theory (or was it almost impossible in practice?). Muriel

Hi Muriel,

We would’ve added a day in Kibale without hesitation to do a hike around the lakes and see the big local market that’s held on Thursdays (on top of the chimps and Bigodi).

Thanks for the tip. The Thursday market is worth looking into, but that would mean doing the loop in the opposite direction and doubling back at Sipi to make it work with the second Thursday!

I really liked Bunyony too (even though I hadn’t planned to stay at first) for its super zen vibe (which might not be your thing 😏). The lodge (I think they all do) organized boat trips, of course (from 1 hour to a full day), as well as treks of different lengths (I didn’t think to take a photo of the activities sheet). Staying 2 nights gives you at least a full day there.

That zen vibe really comes through in Delphine’s story and all the photos of lodges by the lake. And guess what—I was actually drawn to that side 😛😏... well, more like Laetitia will *definitely* be into it 🤪!!

Anyway, you need more than a month to see everything at a relaxed pace if you add the east and the north 😎.

Yeah, that’s what I was thinking... She’ll have to negotiate an unpaid week off, and that’s not a sure thing!

Finally, if you didn’t get lucky like Delphine and see a shoebill at every marsh corner, you can plan a trip to Mabamba Swamp near Entebbe.

She’s already booked it for the last day before flying out, as a last-chance excursion to see one (thanks, Carmen [;])! But that was before considering a full day at Sipi Falls, meaning 2 nights, after Delphine’s latest message. Ugh... So much brain-wracking ahead to fit everything into 3 weeks 😏

Hello,

For the Chimpanzees, the required age is the same: 15 years; apparently, no exceptions are possible... We'll be there in a month and can confirm these details if needed

Yikes... Guess we'll have to get fake papers for our youngest. 😏 And my wife, who's shorter than a 15-year-old teen—will she get through? Or is she at risk of being kidnapped by a male chimpanzee?? Okay, I’m out... 🏴‍☠️

Wow, for a trip that’s happening in... 3 years? 4 years?, you already have some really specific ideas 😉. For the market, it’s worth double-checking. I thought I’d read about it in the Bradt guide... but I can’t find the info (day-location) anymore, and I tossed all my prep docs after the trip . Muriel

Looks like the issue is sorted now—they replied to my request and confirmed the booking, even sent their bank details for a transfer... Since I’d already committed to Alpha Rent a Car in the meantime, I didn’t follow up, but again, it seems to be working out. For the minimum age for chimps, I’ll try to negotiate once I’m there (my youngest is 12.5 years old)... but if they have a limit, I guess there’s a reason...