Converting a heavy-duty bus/coach/truck into a motorhome (page 90 of 161)

Hey Roadster

In two weeks you won’t be done, and then it’ll be too late!! Santa will have come and gone!! 😏

Hey piéton, I’ll give it a shot with some questions, of course!

First off, a quick thanks to Cunni for hyping up my computer skills, but I’ve got to admit I’ve never tried uploading a photo to a post—so I’m clueless there! Though it looks like Chirstian06 has taken charge and done a great job...

Back to your conversion project... I won’t rehash what’s already been said about gas (refer to the regulations, but I think gas bottles under 6.5L can be included in the "storage area"—though you’ll still need proper fixings and ventilation).

First point about the two-stage conversion: I’m not a fan of this method. For one, the first stage is always rushed, and dealing with the mining guy (or whoever inspects it) is always a hassle. Plus, modifying your setup while living in it is already tricky in a house—imagine in just 30m²! Quick question: what’s the flow/pressure like at the tap without a pump, just using a one-meter height difference?

Your project’s a bit different from what we’ve seen before because you’re planning to host the public.

So, watch out—you’ll need to meet not just motorhome standards but also public venue regulations. That means stricter fire safety rules for your build, plus requirements for emergency exits, disabled access, toilets, etc. It all depends on how many people you plan to host at once. But in any case, I doubt they’ll let you block your second access door with a hatch to put a chair behind your "personalized advice space."

I also know a buddy who converted his bus into a "computer lab" and got hassled over a load-bearing partition between the driver’s area (with road seats) and the computer zone. He managed to avoid installing it in the end, but be careful! Double-check everything before starting your work.

Also, plan how to store your "loose" chairs during transport—stacking and strapping them, storing them in a closet, or in the underfloor compartments.

I’m not sure I fully get the deal with your brochures... Do you want to cover the area above the driver? If so, I don’t know if that’s allowed, and in any case, where it’s drawn, it’s definitely too low!

Next, I assume you’re planning a setup for two. What’s the point of the four side seats behind the driver? Do you have a passenger seat?

You’re losing a lot of space in your layout (lots of empty areas). I also think it’s a shame to use round tables if they’re just going to be pushed against a wall!

I don’t know how much material you want to store, but consider using full-height storage, even if it means blocking some windows.

Moving to the "living" area—my first thought is how little space you’ve got left. 6m² to fit a bed, table, kitchen, *and* a washing machine for two people? You’ll be cramped fast!

Since there’s no door in the living area (which is an issue in itself), you’ll need to think about emergency exits. Also, if your toilet is for the "public" zone, I doubt you’ve planned a combined shower/toilet unit... so where’s the shower going?

The only way to gain space is to "push the walls." Two options: - Check how your floor is built in that area—could you create an access passage to the underfloor compartment? If there’s 90 cm of clearance, you could fit the bed there (just remember to add an emergency exit window in one of the underfloor doors). Downsides: some people might not like sleeping in the "underfloor compartment"—right, boniz26? 😉—and you’ll lose storage space, depending on how you planned to use it. By the way, in your plan, you raise the bed for storage underneath, but how do you access it with the washing machine on one side and the table on the other? - If not underneath, then *above*! A roof tent (using a skylight for access). Downsides? Well, it’s a tent—so winter’s rough, and no one sleeps while you’re driving...

There are plenty of other things to think about—your power setup, where you’ll park to reach your audience, whether you can plug into electricity, internet access, etc., etc., etc...

Hope this post isn’t too "demoralizing" 😇

Ciao, and good luck to everyone!

Alright, a quick update on Saturday's meet-up!

boniz38 already did a great summary!

It was a really nice time!

Too bad others who weren’t too far away couldn’t join us... but it’s true we improvised it a bit last-minute.

By the way, on Friday afternoon before the meet-up, I had contact with my guy for used coaches, and I might’ve found tome38’s dream in the list he faxed me:

A 1988 Setra 215UL in great body condition with a fully rebuilt engine (liners, rings, bearings, valves, etc.) with only... 12,000 km for 10,000 €... (still room to negotiate a bit😉)

Not bad, considering it’s been so well maintained that it’s always passed its roadworthiness tests on the first try!

Since it’s still running school routes, I need to keep tome38 in the loop so he can check it out next week (school holidays). The coach will be available at the start of the year, as soon as they get its replacement.

There are 2 others for 8,900 € in the same exceptional condition but with around 750,000 km.

There are also some FR1s!

3 available, including one that caught my eye:

1986 model, used for tourism until 2003 (mainly retirees traveling to Ventimiglia). Then, at that point (with 1 million km), they retired it and did a full engine and gearbox overhaul (the whole set has 329,000 km!).

This coach is in exceptional body condition and has also always passed its roadworthiness tests on the first try.

It’s for sale at 7,650 € (negotiable, this one too!)

The other two are around 9,000–10,000 €.

The company that owns them has a fleet of 800 coaches! They have their own mechanical and bodywork workshops. The coaches are sold with a clean roadworthiness certificate and ready to hit the road.

In the list, there are also Van Hools, Neoplans with low floors (2.02 m interior height) for which you’d need a budget of 20,000–25,000 €, but these vehicles are more recent.

They also have S53s, S45s, PR14s, and similar models, but as my contact said: "We’re not wasting fax pages on wrecks sold in bulk to Africa, but hey, if you want some, I’ve got some parked behind the workshop!"

Those were his words, but he’s got plenty of new coaches😕

That’s the news for now,

Let’s do this again for some afternoons brainstorming about our buses...

And cateludo, a thousand apologies, I completely forgot about you😊, I hope the oysters were good!

That’s all for tonight,

Some photos coming soon.

PATRICK26

Still for a LEISURE conversion,

what do you think of doing it in two stages (first a VASP NSPC that should only take one day of work to get the right to drive it with a category C license), even though I haven’t done anything with it for months and I’m not too worried about that... but it’s to get a registration certificate at a lower cost (without the parafiscal tax when it’s a VASP: 19 taxable horsepower x 8 euros = 142 euros instead of 370) and then be able to drive it without any issues.

The second stage: taking the time (since I have a place to stay nearby) to do a proper and decent conversion.

Given that for VASP NSPC: only 8 seats + driver + filling the remaining space so you can’t physically store anything while driving (the filling can be done with original seats that aren’t usable, or benches, cabinets, or even a hammock or whatever else).

So I’m asking again to see what the experienced folks think? Given that this is basically what my local DRIREUX said. The main issues for me are: 1) License, 2) Registration certificate, 3) Roadworthiness test (CT) less than 6 months old for the registration, and a proper conversion for a CT without seats—so no conversion, no CT (or invalid), and no registration certificate (or maybe yes, even with an invalid CT less than 6 months old).

Otherwise, welcome Piéton. Have you considered a Van Hool Astromega (be careful, it’s restrictive, especially in terms of fuel consumption and height: instability in crosswinds).

Otherwise, Mr Konn, it’s definitely a battery issue, because the starter doesn’t even turn. Or it barely makes a quarter turn, whereas with new batteries I tested 3 months ago, it started right away. Plus, I tested it with two car batteries, and it seems to struggle with the electricity—when I engage the starter, nothing happens (everything dims), and at one point, a spark occurs and the power cuts out (I checked the batteries, and the positive terminal of battery #1 was black and even melted from the spark or whatever). So I’m not trying again to avoid damaging the battery further. If anyone knows what’s causing this...

See you later

hi an S53 on eBay http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120065830366&fromMakeTrack=true

another one! http://cgi.ebay.fr/bus-s53-amenage-camping-car_W0QQitemZ290063412223QQihZ019QQcategoryZ79058QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

😉 I THINK IT COMES FROM THE SAME PLACE WHERE I BOUGHT MINE. TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK, DRAZIC.

IT DOESN'T HAVE A VASP HOMECAR CERTIFICATE

hi, super interesting the prices of your coaches!

HEY You're right mrkonn and what's more it's the same as mine—I often see it on the road, it's parked not far from my place.

Hey everyone..!

I’d like to revisit those 40x40 mm, 2 mm-thick bars I need to install...

Where should I put them? Just in the gear-loading section, or everywhere?

Basically, I’m looking for code-compliant solutions that are as cheap as possible... I remember some of you mentioned painting the windows—what kind of paint should I use?

Thanks! Cheers, Boniz

I got a quote from a vinyl wrap installer, which seems like a good option for blacking out the windows. They quoted me around 500 € for 12 m² of windows, installation included, with a 10-year warranty. The vinyl is supposed to be opaque, but there will always be a 1 or 2 mm gap between the window seal and the vinyl. In auto specialty stores, I found 1.50 x 0.80 m vinyl sheets for 8 € each (be careful with installation, and I’m not sure how well it holds up in the sun). The dimensions are sufficient since an S53 window measures 1.30 x 0.73 m, plus the skylight at 1.30 x 0.15 m.

Alternatively, for paint, send an email to benhurd (benhurd@gmx.net). He did this on his coach, from the inside. However, he glued his lining directly onto the paint, and as a result, it’s peeling off in patches.

The interesting thing about vinyl is that there are transparent options (to prevent window breakage), translucent ones (for the toilet), or filtering ones (for the living area) that block visibility into the cabin during the day.

Painting on glass is a really tricky thing because you’d need to frost the glass for the paint to stick. Otherwise, you’ll have to degrease it with something like trichloroethylene first, then apply a neutral polyurethane varnish, and paint over it in several coats to get a truly clean result... All these products are expensive, and I think the best option is an opaque film if you’re layering it on top without using fiberglass, which holds moisture, and a transparent one for windows you want to camouflage...

And do I need the bars or not?

If you're covering it for insulation, it's better—it'll give your lining extra rigidity...

A quick rundown on window blackout and bars. I won’t revisit why sheeting the windows is a good idea...

Bars are mandatory in cargo areas. They keep loads from "punching through" the partitions. So every partition in a cargo zone must be built this way: the partition can be open or solid, with steel bars (40×40×2 mm section) spaced less than 40 cm apart (the "ball test"), and they must be in front of any openings—whether you leave them glazed or not.

Paint: I’m no paint expert, but I don’t know of any paint for glass that truly lasts. I’m not even sure glass can be primed. To me, paint will always be fragile under mechanical stress (rubbing, scratches), and if you apply it from the inside, the risk of bubbling increases (the glass acts like a magnifying lens). Plus, if you paint from the inside and then add a partition with insulation in between, what do you do if it bubbles? You’ll have to dismantle everything!

Adhesive: Unlike paint, adhesive was Patrick’s and my line of work... There’s a whole world of adhesives out there. Whatever you do, don’t buy "Velleda"—it has nothing to do with professional adhesive (polymer-based glue, not water-based, UV-resistant, etc.). There aren’t many manufacturers, but there’s a wide range of adhesive lines, and the line determines the adhesive’s characteristics. For pricing, shop around and get multiple quotes. You might be surprised by the price differences (it all depends on the market in your area). Also ask for references, because covering large surfaces or sticking letters on a signage panel doesn’t require the same installation techniques!

Let’s dive a little deeper into the technical side: I’ll quickly skip over non-permanent adhesives, which won’t meet your needs: their only advantage is that they can be removed after 3 months without leaving glue residue. If you leave them on, they’ll hold, but there’s a high risk of shrinkage (adhesive always retracts over time). I’m only mentioning them because they’re often used for vehicle wraps, especially in events.

For "opaque" adhesives: you’ll find a wide range of quality. The 3/5-year and 5/7-year options are the most common (these are the warranty periods for adhesive durability/UV resistance). There are higher-performance adhesives (7/9 years), but the cost per square meter is at least 10 times higher! So if someone guarantees their adhesive for 10 years, I don’t believe it—especially for 500 € for 12 m² installed (which is a fair price for 3/5-year adhesive). The higher the quality, the more expensive the adhesive, but the longer the glue will last, the less it will shrink, and the more opaque it will be. Adhesives aren’t truly opaque—they’re always a bit translucent (they’re very thin, just a few dozen microns). They all block the view, but if you put white adhesive on a window from the inside, even a little sunlight will turn it into a lightbox! The only truly opaque adhesive is masking or block-out adhesive. It has a black layer (usually on the adhesive side) and a white face. The upside is that it’s cheaper than plain white adhesive!

These adhesives are usually applied from the outside and cut flush with the seal (if the installer is good, you shouldn’t have even 1 or 2 mm of light leakage!!!). Over time, though, depending on the adhesive’s quality, you might see some shrinkage.

As Francois57 mentioned, you’ve got plenty of finish options: Translucent or transparent adhesives (the name changes based on opacity) are used to tint light, like for illuminated signage boxes or pure decor. Frosted or satin-glass finishes are great for bathrooms or toilets because they blur the view while letting light through. They can be more white or gray. Just be aware that they lose some effect when there’s more light inside than outside. Smoked-glass finishes, also called auto adhesives (what you’ll find at Glastint), are translucent adhesives that block the view from the outside but not from the inside! But this only works when there’s more light outside—otherwise, the effect reverses, and while you can’t see out, others can see in! These adhesives are no longer made of PVC but polyester, so they’re harder to apply to curved surfaces, and any imperfections will show. They come in colors like amber or black... Heat-rejection films are UV-blocking films (not insulating!). They block up to 70% of radiation and give a mirror-like appearance without tinting, so you keep your view from the inside. Plus, since they act like mirrors from the outside, I’m not sure they’re road-legal (safety concerns). They can be tinted gold, silver, etc. They’re applied from the inside and have the same drawbacks as auto films (same installation issues, effect canceled if more light inside, etc.).

That’s about it for what’s out there. For those getting quotes, I recommend adhesives from MacTac (ask your provider for the adhesive’s reference) or Avery. Also ask about their installation technique—if it’s dry application, expect bubbles on such surfaces!!!! Feel free to send me your quotes via PM, and I’ll let you know what I think.

Ciao

Hey everyone, For my part, I "tinkered" with 40x40x2 square tubing for my windows, and I sheeted them with 0.2mm pre-painted metal. The whole thing didn’t cost me 500 €, pending verification.

Thanks to everyone for your replies..!

Cateludo, did you really fit all the windows plus the bars for 500 €? Where did you get them, please?

Shopped at Berton in Rochefort-sur-Mer—they're wholesalers in metals and heavy industrial hardware. But I'll tell you exactly what it cost me after I check my invoices, though I don't think it was that much anyway. See you later, heading back to work—me too, I work in signage and adhesives. !!!😎

http://img321.imageshack.us/img321/5773/cloisonar005jm3.jpg

😎 Here's a photo of my metal bracing work. (thanks to Christian06...the photo, not the bracing work !!!)😎

http://img157.imageshack.us/img157/767/bussides001ij2nt0.jpg

😄...and there's the beast!!! It's gorgeous, isn't it!!!😄