Three weeks in Quebec at the start of summer 2018, on a "semi-organized" trip

I’ve been putting off posting my Quebec travel experience for a long time. Two years later, I’ve finally decided to share it. The memories are still vivid. I hope this gives you the urge to visit this beautiful region, which I literally fell in love with.

We’re traveling as four adults: my brother Guy, my sister-in-law Martine, my friend Pascal, and myself (Christian).

We entrusted the flight, hotel, and car reservations to the travel agency Amplitudes in Toulouse. Planning the day-to-day activities was up to us. We scheduled a few must-see visits, but for the rest, we’d figure it out on the spot.

Our itinerary: Quebec City / Rimouski / Carleton-sur-Mer / Percé / Sainte-Anne-des-Monts / Matane / Tadoussac / Sainte-Rose-du-Nord / Chambord / Saint-Alexis-des-Monts / Montreal

06/25 Here we are at Roissy Charles de Gaulle for the usual pre-flight formalities. Everything goes smoothly and quickly. The hardest part is waiting for takeoff. After an uneventful flight on an Air Canada Boeing 777-300ER, we land at Montréal-Pierre Elliott Trudeau Airport (YUL) in the early afternoon.



At customs, a surprise—no grumpy officer, but a smiling customs agent who jokingly asks me to name three tourist spots in Quebec, or else he won’t let me in. I pass the test easily and enter Quebec!

We head to the Alamo counter at Trudeau Airport to pick up our car: a Ford Escape with only 300 kilometers on the odometer.



We decided to head straight to Quebec City, saving Montreal for the end of the trip. Pascal takes the wheel and gets on the Trans-Canada Highway E20 for a 255 km drive, taking about 2 hours and 45 minutes. With the time difference, we’re already feeling hungry, so we stop for our first poutine at a highway restaurant.



When we arrive in Quebec City, we go straight to the Clarendon Hotel, located right in the heart of Old Quebec. We’ll be staying there for three nights. Tonight, no restaurant—just a short walk around the hotel before bed. We discover a square with pretty colored water fountains near the city hall.

It’s only 9 PM, but our body clocks say it’s 3 AM.

06/26 After a hearty lunch (yep, I’m already not calling it breakfast anymore), the day is dedicated to exploring the city of Quebec. First, we head to the must-see Château Frontenac, an imposing hotel that’s the most iconic building in the city. We photograph it from every angle—and we’re not the only ones.





We take a quick stop at the foot of the statue of Samuel de Champlain, the founder of Quebec.

Leaning against the railing along Dufferin Terrace, we get a really nice view of the St. Lawrence River.

Cool little recap that’ll let you virtually visit Quebec while we wait for the borders to reopen!

Yep, that’s another reason I decided to start this travel journal. Without that blasted virus, the same four travelers would’ve flown off to see the burst of colors in just one week. This time, for a trip that was also supposed to last three weeks, my brother and I had planned everything together from A to Z: flights, car, itinerary, accommodations. We would’ve mainly headed toward Mauricie and then the Eastern Townships. It’s a huge disappointment, but I hope it’s just postponed until autumn 2021. In the meantime, I’ll focus on the current travel journal. Best regards.

The steps of the Breakneck Stairs await us to dive into the alleys of Lower Town in the Petit-Champlain district. No crowds, no jostling—it’s still early in the day, and the tourist season is just beginning. This morning, we don’t feel like following the pages of a guidebook. We’d rather soak up the city’s vibe and let chance guide us.







A great discovery: trompe-l’oeil murals that tell the story of Quebec. On the *Fresque des Québécois*, I easily recognize Félix Leclerc.

We cross Place Royale, where a bust of Louis XIV stands.

After that, we head toward the banks of the St. Lawrence River and the Old Port, toward the dock where cruise ships berth. At this time of year, everything’s empty. But I’m not disappointed—those sea monsters don’t fascinate me at all.

Still wandering a bit aimlessly, we find ourselves at the base of the funicular, which we take to climb back up to Upper Town.

For lunch, we’ll be at Chez Jules, a French brasserie near the *Auberge du Trésor*, easily recognizable with its red roof. Great meal, with warm service and reasonable prices. This is our chance to dive into the world of taxes, which we’re not used to in France. (I’m only talking about the taxes added to restaurant bills—we’re all too familiar with the others!) So, add roughly 15% in taxes and 15% for the tip. You get used to it quickly, and it becomes second nature. We notice that, given the current exchange rate, if a menu is listed at 30 CAD, adding taxes brings it to nearly 30 €.

A very welcome Quebec quirk: When there are several people at a table, the server always asks how to split the bill among the diners—so handy!

In the afternoon, we walk around the Plains of Abraham, a historic site in Quebec, under a hot sun. We’ll save the Citadelle visit for another trip. It’s only our second day here, but we’re already itching to come back.

In the early evening, after a quick stop at the hotel, we head down Côte de la Fabrique, lively with street musicians. Quick meal at McDonald’s, then some well-deserved rest.

Hi there,

I’ll be happily following your travel journal... to get over the disappointment of my July-August 2020 trip being canceled!

I was also in Quebec during the summer of 2018, and I was supposed to go back this year for the fifth time!

Thanks for following along—it keeps me going! If you don’t mind, I’ll copy-paste my reply to Lescaribous:

Without that cursed virus, the same four travelers would’ve flown off to see the burst of colors in just one week.

This time, for a trip that was also supposed to last three weeks, my brother and I had organized everything from A to Z together: flights, car, itinerary, accommodations. We would’ve mainly headed toward Mauricie and then the Eastern Townships. It’s a huge letdown, but I’m hoping it’s just postponed until autumn 2021.

Best regards.

06/27 This morning, Guy takes us about fifteen kilometers north of Quebec City to the village of Wendake, home to the Huron-Wendat Nation of Indigenous peoples.

In a beautiful circular museum, many artifacts tell the story of the Huron-Wendat people. Outside, we visit a traditional longhouse, guided by a young Huron woman.







A Stop sign translated into both French and Huron!

One regret: not being there during the big Pow Wow (a gathering of the First Nations) to see the stunning traditional costumes and ritual dances. We spend three hours at the site, but you could easily stay much longer.

After a meal at a cozy little restaurant in the village, we head toward Montmorency Falls Park, about twenty kilometers away.

We leave the car in a nearby parking lot. Following pleasant trails, we arrive at the side of North America’s tallest waterfall. We hear it before we see it. Following the scenic route, we cross the falls on a very stable but still impressive suspension bridge. Other thrill-seekers try a zipline crossing. Not for us!





A wooden staircase clinging to the hillside leads us to the base of the falls.

A Quebecer explains that in winter, everything freezes. The spray from the water droplets turns to ice, eventually freezing everything solid. The falls end up looking like a "sugar loaf." We take the cable car back, enjoying a beautiful view as we return to our parking lot.

The day is advancing, but we still want more. So off we go: next stop, Île d’Orléans, just nearby. We cross the majestic bridge over the St. Lawrence River before taking the Chemin Royal, which circles the island in 70 km.

Farms line the road. Many houses are brightly colored, as is common almost everywhere in Quebec, and we feel like photographing each one. Oddly, there are very few parking spots outside the villages. Or maybe I just didn’t notice them. We planned to visit the Félix Leclerc Space, which friends had raved about. Disappointment: it’s closed!







We stop near a church with a red roof next to a seaside cemetery. Should it be called a "seaside cemetery" when you’re by a river? This stop is the perfect opportunity for a tasty break at a nearby bakery. It’s already time to head back to Quebec City for our last evening here—the time for one last stroll to the Dufferin Terrace and a farewell (hopefully not forever) to the Château Frontenac.

Christian, I have a feeling you’ll be back ;)

and I really like the photo of the two houses on Île d'Orléans

PS: When you come back—if you haven’t already (and why pass up the chance if you have)—take the Québec-Lévis ferry to see the city from the river and understand the strategic choice of location in the 17th century

Oh yes, I’ll definitely be back.

For this year’s canceled trip, I’d planned to stay in Lévis so I could see Quebec City from a different angle and enjoy taking the ferry.

06/28 This morning, our last breakfast at the Clarendon Hotel, then we loaded up the luggage and headed to Rimouski. We’ve got about 300 km of road ahead.

Here’s something I have to admit—I get nervous in the car when I’m not driving. I’m not saying others drive badly while I’m some great driver! Not at all. But that’s just how I feel. So, with the agreement of the other three passengers, I’ll be driving for the rest of the trip, with only a few exceptions.

Off to Rimouski, then. We cross the St. Lawrence River and follow the right bank, taking the Jean Lesage Highway at times and smaller parallel roads at others to get a closer feel for Quebec.



A huge sign catches our attention—how could it not?

The names on the road signs make us dream just from their sound: Rivière-du-Loup, Saint-Alexandre-de-Kamouraska… The weather’s beautiful, and we soak in every village we pass.

Before stopping for the night in Rimouski, we plan to visit the Jardins de Métis in Grand-Métis. So, we continue for another forty kilometers or so.



This place was born from the vision of one woman, Elsie Reford (1872–1967), who at the age of 54 decided to dedicate herself to gardening around her home, Villa Estevan.



But can you even call it gardening when you consider the scale of the work? What determination, what tenacity to create these stunning 90-hectare English-style gardens in just a few years, filled with thousands of trees and flowers.



The jewel of these gardens is the Himalayan blue poppy. We picked the perfect time to visit—it’s in full bloom. Martine decides to buy some seeds to plant when we get back, though she’ll soon realize the blue poppy doesn’t seem to like the French Ardennes much. The storm’s rolling in, so we reluctantly leave this magical place and head back to the Empress Hotel in Rimouski. We’ll only stay one night there.

06/29 Today’s leg takes us across the Gaspésie from north to south, from Sainte-Flavie to Matapédia and then Carleton-sur-Mer. Sainte-Flavie is the gateway to the Gaspésie, the start and finish of an 885 km loop that circles the entire peninsula. That’s where you have to decide whether to take Route 132 north or south. For us, it’s south. Break by a lake.

After following the shores of Lac Matapédia and Lac-au-Saumon, we reach Causapscal.

We venture 4 to 5 kilometers down a small road that soon turns into an unpaved track, but with a firm surface that makes for easy riding. Our reward is discovering the Site des Chutes et Marais. We can’t believe our eyes: salmon are trying to swim up a waterfall—not very high, sure, but with a pretty strong current. We watch them leap, fall back, bump into rocks, but eventually make it. You could spend hours just watching them.



Nearby is an Atlantic salmon observation site. Signs and a guide tell us all about the life of this fish.



A large natural pool holds dozens of salmon. They got there the same way as the ones we saw jumping earlier. An underwater camera lets us observe them.

Back in Causapscal, we stop at a little restaurant where we discover lobster *guédilles*—a sandwich, sure, but not just any sandwich. We love it.

In Causapscal, there’s also the Matamajaw Historic Fishing Site. Once frequented by wealthy salmon anglers, it’s now a museum showcasing salmon fishing past and present. It’s really interesting, and the welcome is especially warm.



The dining room at the Matamajaw fishing site.

A few kilometers later, we discover an old covered bridge. There are fewer than a hundred left in Quebec. This one is the Heppell Bridge, recently partially restored.

A few more kilometers and here’s another covered bridge, the Routhierville Bridge, longer than the Heppell Bridge and apparently in better condition. Definitely, the Causapscal region is packed with interesting things to discover. Maybe we should’ve planned a stop here tonight.

We continue our journey, following the Matapédia River for kilometers, spotting fishermen here and there.



This crossing of the Gaspé Peninsula will remain a highlight of our trip.

By late afternoon, we’re following the Gaspé coast from Matapédia to Carleton-sur-Mer. Tonight’s stop is the Baie-Bleue Hostel, by the sea. On the horizon, you can just make out New Brunswick.

06/30 Today, we’ll be covering about 200 km along the southern coast of the Gaspésie, all the way to Percé.

In Newport, we planned a stop at the Mary Travers site, known as "La Bolduc." Disappointment: everything seems abandoned. I’m afraid the closure might be permanent.

And yet, La Bolduc is a Quebec icon—the Céline Dion of the 1930s and 1940s. A little later in Percé, we saw a poster advertising a show titled: "From Céline Dion to La Bolduc!" Among La Bolduc’s dozens of songs, I’ll just mention two (not necessarily the most objective picks) that you can listen to on any music platform: "C'est dans l'temps du jour de l'an" and "Ça va venir, découragez-vous pas." Today, they’re playing on loop on our car radio since we brought a USB stick of Quebec songs.



Around noon, we stopped at La Vieille Usine in Anse-à-Beaufils. This used to be a fish-processing plant, but now it’s a cultural center with a restaurant where we had lunch.

I couldn’t resist sharing this sign warning against incivility—what the French pompously call "incivilités."

Right next to La Vieille Usine, we spotted a "bar laitier" and none of us knew exactly what it was. So, we went to check it out! Great idea: they had delicious ice cream. Perfect for our lunch dessert.

We arrived at the Riotel hotel in Percé in the mid-afternoon. We’ll be staying here for two nights. As soon as we dropped off our bags, we went for a walk along the shore toward the legendary Percé Rock.

The promenade along the beach has clearly just been redone. It looks great, even if all the work isn’t quite finished yet.



The Rock was right there, bathed in sunlight, even more imposing and majestic than in all the photos we’d seen while planning the trip.



Out at sea, about two kilometers away, Bonaventure Island was clearly visible. We’ll go tomorrow. In the meantime, we bought our access tickets right away.



Beer break at Pit Caribou pub.

We kept strolling until dinnertime. Tonight was THE meal of the trip. Lobster was on the menu—it’s peak fishing season, after all.



We picked the restaurant La Maison du Pêcheur from a guidebook—it seems like an institution in Percé. We weren’t disappointed.

It was expensive, but what a treat.

Bravo, even for a Quebecer your travel journal is a treat.

Thank you. I really appreciate your message. I try to put all my feelings into it, even if I sometimes feel like I’m going on a bit, but it’d be a shame to leave anything out. And now, I know where Vaudreuil-Dorion is. Best regards.

I try to put all my feelings into it, even if sometimes I feel a bit long-winded, but it’d be a shame to leave anything out.

Hey, Your feelings really come through in your story (and in your photo choices too), and between us, a travel journal is never too long—well, not for me anyway! I love reading travel journals about Quebec because they often let me discover little spots I don’t know, and especially get an outsider’s perspective! Anyway, I’ll happily keep traveling "with you"!

A delight... what am I? A feast!

Anyway, I’ll gladly keep traveling “with you”!

Thanks—I’ll try to make sure you don’t get tired of it.

Here, everything is a delight, everything is a feast. For the eyes, the ears, the taste buds...

07/01 This morning, as soon as I woke up, I took a quick peek out the window to see the Rock.



It had partially disappeared, shrouded in fog. But it didn’t last. Quickly, the sun appeared and chased away all the mist. It’s going to shine brightly all day, and that’s just fine.

Another attraction caught our attention. Near the coast, two boats were going back and forth.

They’re lobster boats. You can clearly see the fishermen pulling up the traps. I never imagined lobster fishing could happen so close to shore.

After a great lunch in the Riotel’s dining room, with a view of Percé Rock, we got ready for our day on Bonaventure Island. Boarding took place at Percé’s dock on a boat named Félix Leclerc. Before heading to the island, the boat slowly passed close to the Rock. It was really impressive—you feel so small.





The captain took us on a full tour of the island. In the cliffs, flocks of birds nested: murres, gulls, puffins, and others.

Once we landed, we had a choice of several trails to reach the main attraction of our visit: the gannet colony, which is exactly on the other side of the island. We took the Les Colonies trail. We’d return via the Paget trail, which is almost the same length. Both trails are well-maintained and perfectly doable for average walkers like us. After three kilometers of a very pleasant walk under the sun, we were gradually struck by the noise and smell of thousands of gannets. The sight was fascinating. We were surprised to see how close we could get to the birds without disturbing them.

Time flew by in front of such a spectacle. Reluctantly, we started the walk back.

Near the dock, on the terrace, we enjoyed a well-deserved snack. Some fellow diners, Quebecers, struck up a conversation with us in that easygoing way they have here. Back in Percé, just like yesterday, a beer was waiting for us at the Pit Caribou pub. The atmosphere was lively—it was Sunday, and lots of young Quebecers were there. Dinner was light. No lobster tonight!

And now, madmen—nothing but madmen. I noticed that two years before the COVID crisis, gannets were already respecting social distancing!!

Like many others have said, reading your posts is a real treat—I can’t get enough, and it actually helps me be patient after this year’s cancellation. It makes me even more eager to go and discover all those little spots for myself! A huge thank you for taking us on a virtual trip!!!

Thank you so much for your encouragement. I understand your disappointment at having to cancel your trip even better now, because as I write this, I should be finishing my first night in Montreal before starting a tour to finally see those famous fall colors, especially in Mauricie and then the Eastern Townships. I’ve been dreaming about it for years, but the health crisis had other plans.

Hi Christian,

I’m still following your travel journal with so much pleasure. Ah! The northern gannets of Bonaventure Island—one of my favorite moments during my trip to Gaspésie!

By the way, I did the Gaspésie loop in the same direction as you. 🙂

I also really regretted not making it to Quebec this year (I’d planned to do the Côte-Nord and the Bella Desgagnés all the way to Blanc-Sablon). Fingers crossed for 2021...

Hi, While waiting to see them 'in person' once you can go to Canada, I thought I’d share a few photos 'to tide you over' 😛 (taken in Montreal these past few days). Far be it from me to 'twist the knife' about your trip being canceled—think of my photos as a small consolation. The good news is that the colors are here every year!

Thanks for your message. I wasn’t familiar with the Bella Desgagnés. I looked it up online, and it sounds like it’d be really interesting to take that route off the beaten path. Alright, fingers crossed—it’ll be for 2021.

Thanks for your photos, they’ll help me wait.

02/07 Today, we’re following the north coast of the Gaspésie, all the way to Sainte-Anne-des-Monts. The whole drive along Route 132, with the sea to our right, the view is stunning. I say the sea, but I know it’s the St. Lawrence—so wide at this point that it’s hard to think of it as just a river.

After Gaspé, instead of heading straight to Rivière-au-Renard, we decide to take a detour around Forillon Park, even if it’ll make our trip longer. It’s a great call. The landscapes are breathtaking, like at Cap-des-Rosiers.



Further on, in Petite-Vallée, it’s the time of the Festival en chanson. If we’d been there last night, we could’ve applauded Jean-Pierre Ferland. The French love him even if they really only know "Je reviens chez nous." Oh well, you can’t be everywhere at once.



Several times along the coast, we spot beautiful lighthouses that look like they’re still in perfect working order.

The La Martre lighthouse

In Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, we leave Route 132 to head about fifty kilometers inland into the Gaspésie, toward Gîte du Mont-Albert, our stop for the day.

Sainte-Anne-des-Monts

Along the way, signs warn of possible wildlife crossings, but despite keeping our eyes peeled, we don’t see a single one. Well, except for a squirrel. Does that count?

Tonight, for the four of us, we’ve got a gorgeous, super well-equipped chalet. We’ll regret only staying one night. In winter, with a wood fire and snow all around, it must be a dream.



To wrap up the day: a short walk and, let’s be honest, a long break on the Gîte’s terrace! I think we’ve developed a taste for Quebec beers.

The four travelers in full effort! From left to right: Christian (me, the narrator), Martine, Guy, Pascal.

A few photos of houses, very colorful, picked up along the way along the Gaspé coast:

Le phare de La Martre

My favorite!

Hey, Those colorful houses remind me of the Magdalen Islands, a lovely little spot in Quebec that’s unfortunately not very accessible (let’s just say it’s worth the detour, but you’ve gotta have the chance to go!) As for microbreweries, I don’t know if it’s the same in France, but here over the past decade or so, it’s been an ''explosion.'' There are more and more of them, much to the delight of craft beer lovers (which I am 😄)

These colorful houses remind me of the Magdalen Islands, a lovely little spot in Quebec

Totally agree with you! 🙂

The number of microbreweries in France has also increased a lot in recent years. We've gone from around 400 ten years ago to about 1,500 in 2020. But I don't know why they're less noticeable here than in Quebec. You guys are better at advertising!

07/03 Today, heading to Matane for a leg under 100 kilometers. This morning, during breakfast, a waitress told us that if we drive slowly and with a bit of luck, we might spot moose in the woods along the road between Gîte du Mont Saint-Albert and Sainte-Anne-des-Monts. So, we drove slowly, but luck wasn’t on our side.

First stop at the church in Sainte-Anne-des-Monts for a quick visit.

In Cap-Chat, we approached the Éole wind farm. There are guided tour options, but we weren’t interested. Still, we saw the tallest vertical-axis wind turbine in the world. From what I understood, the farm never moved beyond the experimental phase.

We arrived in Matane in the mid-afternoon, which gave us time to visit the salmon observation post near the Mathieu-d'Amours dam on the Matane River. I recently learned that this observation post will likely disappear when the dam is fully reconstructed in 2022.



On average, 3,000 salmon use this migratory stairway each year. You can watch them through large windows.

We still had plenty of time for a long walk on the beach. The amount of driftwood washed up there is impressive.

We spotted the river station where the F.A. Gauthier ferry is docked—the one that will take us to the other side of the St. Lawrence tomorrow morning. Motel Belle Plage is waiting for our last night in Gaspésie, but first, a meal made entirely of Nordic shrimp, the local specialty.

To be continued: Ferry to Baie-Comeau, then the Whale Route to Tadoussac.

Hi, Always nice to follow your adventures! You're right, Éole never went beyond the experimental stage. Did you go see the wind turbines up close? It's still impressive to hear them "whistle"! Oh, the Matane shrimp—so good! 😄 We’ll be following the rest with great interest!

A little over 4 years ago, like so many others, I was forced to stop publishing this travel journal. I’ve decided to pick it back up and finish what I started.

04/07 This morning, we got up at dawn—or close to it. No time for breakfast at the hotel. We headed to the nearby river station. A little scare: There was no trace of our reservation... But we could board anyway, and everything was sorted out once we were on board.



The F.A. Gauthier, which didn’t seem very big from the hotel, is actually a huge boat—the largest of Quebec’s ferries—with all the comforts for a crossing that would last about 2.5 hours. We started with a very hearty breakfast before taking a stroll on the deck.



After docking in Baie-Comeau, we got back in the car and headed toward Tadoussac, following part of the North Shore, known as the Whale Route.

We took a long break in Les Bergeronnes, at the Cap-de-Bon-Désir Interpretation and Observation Center. Sitting on the rocks, eyes glued to the St. Lawrence River, we hoped to spot a whale. And sure enough, we caught fleeting glimpses of a few.







A little later, just outside Tadoussac, a black bear crossed the road in front of the car—at a safe distance, though. But you’ll have to take my word for it, because there was no time to snap a photo—it happened so fast. We spent the night at Hôtel Tadoussac, whose big red roof is one of the town’s symbols, the other being the whale.

07/05 The morning is dedicated to an unmissable whale-watching cruise. I’ll admit I hesitated. I’m not an ecology obsessive, but is it really reasonable to get so close to these marine mammals? I know all the precautions are taken, that the instructions given to boat captains are strict to avoid disturbing the whales too much, but I still feel uneasy. Curiosity wins out. We board for a nearly three-hour cruise, but not in a zodiac! At first, fog envelops us, then very quickly the sun beats down.





And sure enough, the whales show up. I took few photos, preferring to watch them directly rather than through a lens. The show is captivating, and the guide’s commentary is well-researched. Time flies by so quickly.









As soon as we disembark, we leave Tadoussac, and as always when we leave a place, we’re convinced we’ve barely scratched the surface. This time, we head to Sainte-Rose-du-Nord, about a hundred kilometers away, along the north shore of the Saguenay. The road is very pleasant, with a multitude of small lakes glimpsed too quickly along the way. In the early afternoon, it’s really hot. We stop at a small roadside restaurant (I forgot to note the place). We’re the only customers. For the first time since arriving in Quebec, we feel like we’re slightly intruding! No unpleasant words, but absolutely no warmth either. After Sainte-Rose-du-Nord, we take an unpaved road for about twenty kilometers, heading toward the Cap au Leste outfitter where we’ll spend two nights. Once again, we scan the undergrowth in vain, hoping to spot the silhouette of a moose, since a sign warns us of possible crossings. We arrive at the outfitter in the middle of the afternoon under the hottest temperatures of our stay: the car’s thermometer reads 36 degrees. We’ve been following the Saguenay Fjord all afternoon without seeing it, but our reward is here: a stunning panorama before our eyes. And that definitely calls for a cold beer!

A few photos taken on the day we arrived at Cap au Leste

07/06 Big surprise when we woke up: the temperature had dropped 23 degrees since last night. Let’s just say we weren’t exactly warm. So, we extended breakfast.

Anyway, it worked out well since we’d planned to take advantage of our stop here to do a big load of laundry. Off to the laundromat we went.

While the machines were running, we settled into a room near the bar, decorated in the colors of France: blue, white, red. The managers had turned on the TV so we could watch a World Cup soccer match. Of course, we didn’t dare admit that soccer only mildly interests us. So we watched France win 2-0 against Uruguay and advance to the quarterfinals, all while discovering Caribou and Sortilège. In moderation, of course.

Later in the morning, we headed toward Sainte-Rose. We’d planned a cruise on the Saguenay, but the weather was so unpleasant that we decided to skip it.



We spent a long time at the restaurant Chez Mina, which advertises Quebecois cuisine and is apparently an institution in this village. We stumbled in here by chance. We left enchanted, having finally tasted the famous tourtière and blueberry pie. Mina is French and married to the mayor of Sainte-Rose.





Back at the lodge, Martine and I tackled the ironing before heading out to admire the fjord, resplendent under the sun that returned in the late afternoon.

07/07 We're leaving Cap au Leste to head toward Lac Saint-Jean, a journey of just over 100 kilometers.

Along the way, we make a short stop in Saguenay, a city formed by the merger of Chicoutimi, Jonquière, and La Baie. There would be plenty to do here for a longer stay, but the historic village of Val Jalbert is waiting for us...

Because it’s to see Val Jalbert that we decided on this trip to Quebec! Here’s why: About two years before our trip, Martine and I discovered *"L’enfant des neiges"*, a six-volume novel by Marie-Bernadette Dupuy: In early 1916, a nun finds an abandoned baby on the snow-covered doorstep of the convent-school in Val Jalbert. This baby, the central character of the novel, would become a famous opera singer known as the Nightingale of Val Jalbert.

The other central character is the village itself, with its pulp mill and magnificent waterfall, the Ouiatchouan. Through the pages, following the seasons, we witness the daily lives of the workers and their families, then the slow, inexorable decline that turns Val Jalbert into a ghost town around 1930.

Since 1960, extensive restorations have taken place, and Val Jalbert has become a tourist site. We arrive there on July 7, 2018, in the early afternoon.



Our steps lead us to explore restored houses and others in ruins. We visit the convent-school, also well restored. Actors in period costumes bring the tour to life. In the old pulp mill, a sound and light show recounts the village’s past. A cable car takes us to the top of the Ouiatchouan Falls, where another almost equally impressive waterfall awaits: the Maligne Falls. From up there, we discover the expanse of Lac Saint-Jean.



We leave the site reluctantly, with plans to return for an overnight stay on a future trip to Quebec.

Tonight, and tomorrow as well, we’ll be staying in a lovely apartment in a chalet by Lac Saint-Jean, in Chambord. In the evening, we try taking a walk by the water, but swarms of mosquitoes force us back inside.

07/08 Today, we decided to spend the day at the Saint-Félicien Wildlife Zoo, about forty kilometers from Chambord. The Saint-Félicien Zoo covers 485 hectares and is home to nearly 1,000 animals, all part of the boreal fauna.

We traveled the 7 kilometers of the Parc des sentiers de la nature on a small caged train. The route lets you see animals roaming freely as you pass through recreated habitats of northern North America.

There are also historical villages with actors along the way, like a lumberjack camp, a trading post, or a First Nations village.

What animals do you think we were hoping to see? Well, the famous moose we’d tried—and failed—to spot in the woods during earlier stops. Believe it or not, we didn’t see a single one. And yet, a guide confirmed they were there—just not necessarily visible. Another excuse to come back to Quebec...

A walking circuit lets you see other animals that can’t be shown in the wild, like polar bears, brown bears, lynx, pumas, or even animals from northern Asia like Amur tigers. At a place like the Saint-Félicien Zoo, time just flies by. It’s already time to head back to our lakeside chalet.

On the way, we pass through the Mashteuiatsh Indigenous reserve. It’s too late to visit the museum dedicated to the culture and traditions of the Pekuakamiulnuatsh (also called Montagnais). These Indigenous people are given a lot of space in the book I told you about regarding Val Jalbert.

So, once again, it’ll have to wait for our next trip... Tonight at the restaurant, we try tourtière and blueberry pie again. A waitress tells us that people who live around Lac Saint-Jean are nicknamed les Bleuets (the Blueberries).

As a bonus, we’re treated to a beautiful sunset over Pekuakami (Lac Saint-Jean in the Montagnais language).

Good for you for getting back into it ;-) But writing a travel journal is almost like ''reliving the trip a second time''! Ah, the Canadiens de Montréal (FA Gauthier), such a symbol for Quebecers......

Thanks for following along four years later. It’s really encouraging!

07/09 The longest leg of our trip (320 km) takes us from Lac Saint-Jean to Saint-Alexis-des-Monts in Mauricie.

For three-quarters of the journey, we follow Route 155, which offers spectacular views—but almost never at a spot where it’s easy to pull over. It’s frustrating not being able to take all the photos we’d like. In a ditch by the side of the road, we catch a fleeting glimpse of a black bear. It’s the second and last one we see on our trip. And once again, no photo! We still manage to take a long break by the Saint-Maurice River, which runs alongside Route 155.

After returning to France, I realized we could’ve taken the scenic route through Parc national de la Mauricie, starting from Grandes-Piles. It would’ve meant a detour, of course, but apparently, it’s stunning... Should I say it again? Oh, go on: next time! Along the way, we pass or get overtaken by huge trucks that seem to be speeding. I wasn’t exactly at ease—it was the first time since the start of the trip.



After Shawinigan, we leave Route 155 to take smaller roads, where we spot farms and pretty, colorful houses.





Today, all along this long drive, it was Pierre Lapointe’s songs that kept us company. He’s still not well-known in France, but ever since we discovered him, we’re absolute fans. We arrive in Saint-Alexis-des-Monts to spend the night at Auberge du Lac à l’Eau Claire. While waiting for dinner, Martine and Pascal decide to enjoy the pool, while my brother and I head to the bar...

10/07 Today’s leg, about 150 km, takes us from Saint-Alexis-des-Monts to Montreal. After Joliette, we decide to skip Highway 40 and take back roads instead. Our reward is glimpsing gorgeous homes along the St. Lawrence River.



We arrive in Montreal under sudden pouring rain. At lunch, we stop at a small restaurant to eat poutine—something we haven’t done in days. Unlike the set itinerary we’d had every day before departure, we haven’t planned anything specific for Montreal. We’ll let chance guide us a little, but not completely since we have a city map. The rain has stopped, the sky is still slightly cloudy, but it’s warm.

In the early afternoon, we drive toward Île Sainte-Hélène, crossing the Jacques Cartier Bridge. The huge grandstands from the Canadian Formula 1 Grand Prix aren’t all dismantled yet, and traffic around the island isn’t easy.

We pass near the Biosphere, an environment museum housed in the former United States pavilion from the 1967 Expo. Further on, we stop to see Montreal’s “American” side across the St. Lawrence, with its tall towers. So, what now? Off to Mount Royal for a panoramic view of the city. We park near Beaver Lake and finish the walk to the Kondiaronk Belvedere, which overlooks Montreal.

The view from the belvedere is stunning, and there are plenty of tourists. We stay there for a while.



We happily run into Montreal’s inevitable squirrels.

After enjoying some soft-serve ice cream at the Chalet café, it’s time to head to our hotel, the Zéro 1, well-located at the corner of René Lévesque and Saint Laurent Boulevards. We’ll spend our last three nights in Quebec there.

11/07 Our day starts with the search for a place to have lunch. A friend told us about a restaurant chain called "Allo mon Coco". There are about ten of them in Montreal. We find the one closest to our hotel, on Sainte Catherine Street. An hour later, we come out full and delighted. You don’t find breakfasts like that in France. This will be our go-to spot for the last two lunches we have left here. We can still use the car until mid-afternoon. Off we go to Little Italy, and more specifically to Marché Jean Talon, a place where you can find all kinds of products from Quebec’s different regions. It’s one of Montreal’s oldest public markets and one of the largest in North America. We see some gorgeous fruits there, including the famous blueberries. Though it seems like it’s not quite blueberry-picking season yet. Those must be greenhouse-grown. We also stock up on maple syrup for family and friends.



We still have some time this morning to try and see Montreal’s iconic houses with their outdoor staircases. In a guidebook, we read that we can find them in the Plateau Mont-Royal and in the Rosemont and Petite-Patrie neighborhoods. Let’s follow our GPS! Several times we park and wander around on foot. The photos prove we found exactly what we were looking for.







After a light meal, we head to the Olympic Park. The stadium’s famous tower dominates the landscape. Apparently, the view of Montreal from up there is breathtaking. No time to check it out this time…