Two weeks in Uganda, solo and using public transport

Hi everyone, I’m taking advantage of the forum’s long-awaited reopening to dive back into my memories and start my first travel journal, destination Uganda!

Why Uganda?

Choosing this destination was almost by chance. I’d already traveled to East Africa two years earlier, to Kenya, and loved the experience. Of course, I wanted to return to the region and see that abundant wildlife I’d enjoyed so much. But Uganda wasn’t really on my radar... While looking for a destination for a two-week trip in May 2023, I came across cheap flights (~400 €) with Kenya Airways to Entebbe. Why not, I thought? I started looking into the country.

How did the trip go?

Most travelers whose posts I read had organized their trip with an agency and/or rented a vehicle, with or without a driver. That’s not at all how I like to explore a country... and besides, I don’t have a license ! Digging a little deeper, I saw that it seemed possible to reach the main sights using local transport, as long as I was ready to put up with the discomfort of the journeys. Challenge accepted! On the other hand, the budget accommodations near the parks that I’d managed to find in Kenya seemed much less common here. The trip was shaping up to be expensive, especially since the highlight—gorilla trekking—requires a permit costing several hundred dollars. Yikes, sticking to a reasonable budget was going to be tricky... In the end, I found a solution. Almost all lodges offer the option to pitch a tent on their grounds for a modest price (between $10 and $20 per night). That would let me enjoy the safaris while keeping this trip "relatively" affordable.

My itinerary

After studying the Lonely Planet East Africa guide, various travel journals and blogs, and the excellent site Safari Bookings, I finally settled on an itinerary (not counting the travel days):

Entebbe – 1 day Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary – 1 day Murchison Falls National Park – 2 days Crater Lakes – 1 day Queen Elizabeth National Park – 2 days Bwindi – 3 days Lake Bunyonyi – 1 day Kampala – 1 day

See you soon for the first stop in Entebbe!

1 - ENTEBBE – landing in Uganda

Here we go for the start of the travel journal! It's May 2023, and I’ve just finished my exams at uni. After a night flight and a quick layover in Nairobi, I land in Entebbe in the early morning.



As soon as I step out of the terminal, the heat and humidity hit me. No doubt about it—I’ve arrived right on the equator, ready to discover the "Pearl of Africa," as Uganda is nicknamed.

Well, almost, because the first hiccup already arises. The day before, while I was waiting for my flight at the airport, the owner of the guesthouse where I was supposed to spend the night messages me. He’s away on a trip to Rwanda, but in the meantime, the rains have washed away the bridge on the main road, blocking buses or forcing them on a very long detour. I’ll get a chance to see that for myself later. Anyway, he’s stuck on the other side of the country.

In the end, a solution is quickly arranged. The driver who came to pick me up at the airport finds me a small, affordable hotel in the center of Entebbe. I check the room—it’s basic but clean, and it’ll do just fine for one night.



After dropping off my stuff, I head out to explore the town, which, I have to admit, doesn’t have a ton to offer. Since I’m not particularly keen on visiting the reptile village or the UWEC (Uganda Wildlife Education Centre) zoo—what’s the point when you’re here to see animals in the wild?—I make my way to the botanical garden.

As soon as I arrive, I’m already approached by a guide, Bright. I can’t tell if it was mandatory or if I was just being naive—let’s blame it on travel fatigue…



This vast park, laid out by British colonists, is teeming with life. So many tropical plant species: trees, flowers, various spices, all bursting with colors and scents. Among them, a tiny flower with an intense passionfruit fragrance, which I’ll come across several times in the country.



The garden borders Lake Victoria and also serves as a refuge for many animals: two species of monkeys—bold vervets and striking black-and-white colobus—as well as all kinds of birds, including impressive hornbills. But there are also some less welcome residents, whose photos I’ll spare the arachnophobes on the forum!



On the way out, Bright suggests I join a boat tour in the Mabamba Swamps, near the city, to spot the different bird species found around the lake. The goal? To catch a glimpse of the shoebill, a large wading bird with a photogenic beak that sits at the top of the food chain in these swamps. I happily agree, but the American tourists who were supposed to join us never show up. We head to the city’s dock. Our little boat glides across the calm waters of Lake Victoria toward the marshes.



Along the way, we spot the old airport terminal, the site of the Entebbe hostage crisis, which gave the city its unfortunate reputation. The area is now a restricted military base, and the current airport is located on its outskirts.



the old terminal

We then arrive in the famous swamps, and the hunt for the shoebill begins. We scan every patch of papyrus for the bird, but no sign of it. Still, the diversity of bird species is impressive: herons (😎), kingfishers, weavers, African fish eagles, cormorants… all among the reeds and papyrus. Normally, I’m not really a bird person, but I have to admit the excursion was worth it!



Even though the bird we were after didn’t make an appearance, the day wasn’t wasted. In such a short time, I’ve already gotten a taste of the natural riches Uganda has to offer.





It’s time to head back to town. I haven’t stopped since I arrived, so it’s time for a well-deserved nap. By evening, I take a stroll through the streets, just to soak up the relaxed vibe.

I take the opportunity to scout out the starting point for the minibuses (called taxis here) that go to the capital, Kampala, for tomorrow’s trip to the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, my next stop.

Well done and thank you for the start of this Uganda travel journal. My wife and I got back from this beautiful country a few weeks ago. Our travel conditions were very different from yours, but what matters is the discovery. I’m putting together a video about this 3-week trip that let us do a full loop of the country (a bit too ambitious in hindsight). This video will join our other "African Adventures" (South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Kenya, Tanzania...): https://www.youtube.com/@lolodetoul54 Stay tuned (for your journal and our video)! Loïc

Congrats on being the first to post a travel journal, and thanks for sharing!

It was brave of you to take a trip with relatively little comfort and resources. Hope you had a blast.

It's great to see this reopening with a little travel journal about a part of the world that's close to my heart

So I started a discussion about our return from Uganda

https://voyageforum.com/forum/retour-notre-circuit-primates-en-ouganda-d10553381/

Thanks to ArXplorateur for kicking things off.

Awesome! Here’s a first travel story that’s really lively and beautifully illustrated—I’m even more excited to read the rest since it’s a destination I’d love to visit too, using public transport. I really like the tone of the post; it reflects such a positive mindset.

Hey Ari,

This unplanned adventure sounds amazing, I love it! Thanks so much for sharing your experience. 🙂

So, is it true? There’s no follow-up?