How surprising this Sultanate of Oman is

Hey fellow travelers,

We’re a couple in our fifties who’ve been traveling independently for ages—mostly in Asia, a bit in Africa, very little in the Americas, and never ever in West Asia until November 2023, when we discovered the Sultanate of Oman.



If we waited so long to explore this part of the world, it’s because a few questions were nagging at us, like: Can two Landais party lovers like us survive 15 days without apéro 😄? Or, more seriously: Can a feminist like me enjoy traveling in such a conservative country?

That is the question (and I feel your pain with this unbearable suspense 😅).

Ready to dive in?

PS: Apologies in advance for the casual tone of this travel journal—it’s the one I shared with our loved ones in real time, which explains everything.

Hi Christelle

PS: I apologize in advance for the informality of this travel journal, but it’s the one I shared with our loved ones live, which explains that.

What interests me is authenticity. And especially people who don’t take themselves too seriously! (For the apéro, we survive. The first few days are the hardest )

Well, Kate, make yourself comfortable—you’ve got the whole plane to yourself! 😄

But to kick off this travel journal, I won’t go on about our journey to Muscat with a first delayed flight and a second one we missed! But, as we all know, in 2024, when your flights go smoothly, it’s basically like winning the lottery! So, we arrived in the capital 18 hours late—no big deal, right? 😄

Needless to say, our visit was *super* quick. But it worked out since we still haven’t planned anything for the second week. So, it’s just a see-you-later for now.

Today, we’re heading to TIWI: a tiny village right on the Gulf of Oman... where I spotted 3 or 4 turtles splashing around right under our noses first thing in the morning!!

I was on the fence about a snorkeling trip, but now I’m sold!

But the real reason we’re here is for Wadi Shab, one of the most popular wadis in the country. And yes, as usual, we’re learning new words. A *wadi* is basically a small river, often emerald green, lined with lush greenery, and here, two massive cliffs plunge straight down—yep, a canyon. But a *real* one, huge and breathtaking!!

The hike was pretty sporty and adventurous (we saw 4 people wipe out in 4 hours!!), but the scenery was absolutely magical, with such contrasting colors.

And of course, a final splash—fish pedicure included! 😂

For November, the weather’s not bad at all: 32°C in the air and 28°C in the water! 🤿🍹

HELP friends, I urgently need a medical prescription, please! After 48 hours in Oman, my jaw is already hurting from all the "Wahoooo"s 😂

Today’s plan is to have lunch in the town of Sur before heading to the famous Wahiba Sands desert, stopping for a dip at Wadi Bani Khalid along the way.

Sounds like a great itinerary, but since I just found out Wadi Tiwi is right next to our digs, we’re making a little detour.

And wow, what an insane country: after admiring a tiny fishing port drowning in blues,



you find yourself just 10 minutes later in the greenery of a palm grove bordered by ochre mountains!!



But of course, such a beautiful setting comes at a price. Franck had warned me: "it climbs hard sometimes," but from my Landais couch, I didn’t quite grasp what he meant.

Lulu, ever the daredevil, let me take the wheel! After that, it was smooth sailing... except when he said we were going to blow the engine.



Anyway, after 4 or 5 steep slopes, when the road suddenly plunged down a thread-like path, I threw in the towel. No need to be *too* reckless—just a little is enough.

We turned around, and to top it off, on a super narrow road, we came face-to-face with a big pickup truck packed with 4 turbaned guys, 2 of them standing in the back 😱. And I know what you’re thinking, friends—because a Muslim in a turban *must* be a fan of Daesh, Hamas, or the Taliban!

But forget all that: Omanis are *reeeeally* nice.

When they realized it would take me about 3 hours to reverse 20 meters, they waved us off like "it’s all good, don’t sweat it" and reversed 200 meters like Alain Prost (sorry, younger folks, my references are a bit dated).

We gave them a big *shoukran* as we left, and they responded with their brightest smiles. And honestly, it’s like that everywhere: if you approach them, they’re super friendly and always up for a laugh.

Next up: lunch in Sur. And let me tell you... we were blown away. (Yes, even Lulu!)



What a palette of colors!! The blue of the sky merging with the sea, and between them, magnificent wooden boats sailing at the foot of the white city 🤩.



This place deserves way more than a few hours, especially since it’s home to the restaurant of our dreams!



We might even come back next week!

Yeah, because now we’ve got to hit the road to meet our desert taxi driver.

But before a sand bath, we’re stopping for a Khalid bath.



More "wow" moments, but I won’t go into details—I don’t want to bore you to death 😅.

Hi Christelle,

This sultanate is really charming.

We’re really hitting our stride now—the forum is full of travel journals! 👍

I’m definitely jumping into this one. My 5-day trip in 2022 left me wanting more (and, uh, a COVID souvenir on the way back 😅).

As for alcohol, I’ve got a couple of local tricks to quench your thirst 😏 (DM me for details).

Oh yes, Régis, and this is just the beginning—there’s so much to see in this country! 😄

Aaah, I was wondering where you’d disappeared to, Bruno! 😄 No worries, though—like I was telling Régis, this country has *everything*… even the most unexpected apéro! 😆 Looking forward to the next part in the desert you know so well

So, friends, are you ready to join me in my very first *real* desert?!



Because while Lulu might have seen one in his younger years, for me, it’s a first—despite a few missed opportunities.

That’s what Cricri was thinking until now: "Okay, it’s probably beautiful, but you must get *so* bored in the middle of nowhere." Yeah, well—completely wrong!

I never imagined that as soon as we entered the desert, our 4x4 taxi driver would start rallying through the sand with his buddies. Oh my god!!! It goes up, it goes down, it skids a little while the engine roars… and yet, no fear at all because those guys are total pros!

I never imagined that stepping into that sand for the first time would feel like walking on flour—it’s *that* soft.



I never imagined how much the landscape changes hour by hour with the light.

I never imagined we’d have a bathroom with a view of the stars—missing nothing.



I never imagined the sun would set so early here (around 5:15 PM!) that we almost missed the sunset.



I never imagined that riding down the dune like I was 10 years old could hurt so much 🤕😂

I never imagined being happy to see the city lights in the distance because that vast, dark emptiness—so quiet it’s almost loud—can be a little scary at night.

I never imagined that, sitting on the bed in our Bedouin tent, a gerbil would come tickle my foot just to say hello.

I never imagined so much nocturnal wildlife, proven the next morning by the tracks sculpted into the pristine sand.



I never imagined my feet would freeze in the sand at 6 AM… only to be boiling hot two hours later.

And finally, I never imagined meeting up around a campfire with people from 3 continents and 8 different countries (Omanis, South Africans, Indians, Singaporeans, Hongkongers, Italians, Austrians, and Czechs)!



In short, you’ve probably figured it out—the desert vibe isn’t something you can imagine; you *have* to live it… especially when you’re welcomed by Salim and his super-friendly team 😊

I see you’ve sorted out the photo issue 😉 The first one is really cool—it makes you want to hit the desert! !

Yes Kate. Apparently I’m not doing anything right at all, but it’ll be fine anyway 😅😆

The car chase with colleagues in the 4x4 (I was driving!), The silence of the night, The vastness of the stars in a sky free of light pollution, The sunrise over the endless sand …

The desert is something you experience but can’t really describe. And I still haven’t met Salim!

But I’m surprised that with all your trips to India, you’ve never spent a night in a desert?

It’s just that India is soooo big, Bruno! We discovered Rajasthan for the first time this year and focused on the southern part of the state. The north and Jaisalmer will be for another time ;) By the way, I don’t know if there are any other deserts in India besides that one 🤔

It’s just that India is sooo huge, Bruno!! We discovered Rajasthan for the first time this year and focused on the south of the state. The north and Jaisalmer will be for another trip

Anyway, that’s the one where I also spent a night. But it didn’t have the vastness you feel in Oman

Hello Solene, So I’m from Soustons. And you, the Chalossaise? Where from? Back to our topic, here’s a copy of a post I left on Le Routard. It’ll give you an idea of our trip.

We spent a day in Muscat when we arrived, in the Mutrah district. The next day, we visited the Grand Mosque—absolutely stunning, not to be missed under any circumstances—then headed toward the Bimmah Sinkhole. We camped on the beach at Fins before reaching Sur. Magical!! The next day, Wadi Shab and then off to Sur. From there, we headed toward Bidiya to venture into the Sharqiya Sands desert. After passing the area with the organized camps, we continued south. The first day went really well, and the night in the dunes was incredible. We left France with a tent, inflatable mattresses, sleeping bags, etc… It was on the second day that things got complicated. We got stuck in the sand twice. The first time, some Bedouins nearby helped us out. The second time, I was really scared because there was no one around, and I was sure we were on a secondary track—no one would pass by, I thought. My wife climbed the nearby dunes and came back convinced we were on the main track and that if someone did pass by, they’d definitely find us. I was sure she was wrong. And after an hour or two—I’m not sure—MIRACLE, a 4x4 showed up and pulled us out. And off we went south again, toward Shana’a. But the dunes were getting taller, the track narrower, and harder to follow. To avoid getting stuck a third time, we decided to turn back and head the other way until we found a Bedouin family and asked if they’d accompany us to the end. There were about 30 km left, and they agreed. We still covered around 200 km in the desert. After that, we went to Masirah Island, then drove back up to Sur via the coastal road, passing through Ibra, Nizwa, and Al Hamra, Wadi Bani Khalid before heading to the Jebel Shams mountain range. The Balcony Walk is totally worth it—10 km, 4 to 5 hours of hiking. Very spectacular, but you’ve got to be careful. Third night camping on the plateau by the canyon. Slept terribly because of the cold. Then we headed back down to Muscat to treat ourselves to a 4-star hotel and go diving near the Daymaniyat Islands.

Anyway, it’s an incredible country. The Omani people are exemplary toward foreign tourists, and the country exudes serenity.

Hey Xavier, Actually, I’m at the gates of Chalosse, not far from Montfort, and this evening I passed by your place to watch the sunset over Vieux Boucau 😊. Hats off for your Omani adventure. I don’t even understand how you can navigate in a desert—where we were, there wasn’t even a track!! Otherwise, we did pretty much the same route except for Masirah Island. I hesitated for a long time, but in the end, we didn’t have time to go. Did you like it?

Well, folks, it's all chatter, chatter, but this travel journal isn't moving forward very fast! 🥰😂😊

Well, the folks from Landes sure do chatter, but this travel journal isn’t moving forward fast! 🤔😄😆

She’s trying to download her photos

I can't do it all, folks—I just enjoyed a sunset from Jaizkibel 😲 and yeah, I had to resize the photo again, Kate 😅 But the Omani adventure is coming soon

No worries, the view is stunning. That said, my little stroll along the banks of the Lez was really pleasant this late afternoon 😊

I just Googled those two places 🤪 Jaizkibel sounds good, but the banks of the Lez... Are you talking about Montpellier?

The weather’s nice, must be that 😂

I just Googled your two spots 🤪 Jaizkibel is fine, but the banks of the Lez... Are you talking about Montpellier?

We’re far from Muscat, but yeah, it’s Montpellier (because there’s more to life than mountains 😄)

Well, after that little escape by the Lez river, let's get back to the point ;)

Because I can already hear you saying, "Yeah, the sea, the desert, and the wadis are all well and good, but where are the people? 🤔"

And yeah, because we know so little about the Middle East that it sometimes takes a while to understand certain things.

In this case, it took us 4 days. 4 days to realize that the people here are a bit like bats—they mostly come out at night! A monkey on a scooter, totally normal 😆

While we’re out walking between 9 AM and 4 PM, they’re holed up at home (or in their big air-conditioned cars 😆) because of the heat. That’s why we passed through so many villages without seeing a soul during our first few days.

It feels really strange at first!

But don’t worry, in Nizwa, you’ll be surrounded by Omanis 😋.

Beyond this stunning ancient city (Google it if you’re curious), the reason we’re here is the Friday livestock market. Every guide talks about it and recommends arriving at 7 AM... so I was there by 6 AM 😆 (to give Lulu time to wake up).

Here I am in the early morning light, trying to find my way, when suddenly a crowd appears: oh my gooood (switching it up from the usual "Wahoooo" 😜)! It’s the ancestral weapons market!!!



I’d heard a little about it, but I was convinced something this traditional no longer existed!





That morning, I’d made a big effort with my outfit: long pants and even a headscarf.

I’d just forgotten that they were almost all in white... while I was in black and dark blue 👩🏽‍🦳👵🏼. And I’m the only "white" person. And I’m the only woman.

Spot the odd one out 😋

But once again, don’t be afraid: in the "travelers’ world," Omanis are known for being very welcoming and tolerant, despite their very conservative appearance. And really, for the past week, that’s been confirmed. They’re very respectful, even attentive and gentlemanly. Seriously, I’ve never seen guys this classy!! Even if, in my opinion, you still shouldn’t push it too far 😜

Anyway, like everywhere in the country and no matter their age, they all wear their traditional outfits: Dishdashas, always clean and impeccably ironed, with a head covering—either a turban or an embroidered Kumma.



For the women, who you’ll see later, it’s black from head to toe... but often with nail polish, nice makeup, and high heels (though you’ll have to look closely under all that fabric 😆).

Some Omani tourists are there taking photos without a care. So I give it a try and it goes smoothly. They’re too busy negotiating the purchase of a rifle or a stunning silver Kandjar to pay any attention to me. And it’s just perfect! The auctions follow one after another and take place in such a calm atmosphere—I’d almost say discreet! When Lulu arrives, we head to the livestock market next.



It’s also very authentic—until other herds show up... those of our fellow tourists 😄.

But I have to admit, this mix of two worlds is pretty captivating to watch, especially since everything happens in perfect harmony.



The shepherds buy their animals, tourists wander around taking photos without bothering anyone, and sometimes, these two worlds come together to share tea while having a chat (since Omanis are very well-educated and almost all speak English).

To top it off, we end up at the city’s Souk,





followed by the open-air market.



I’ll really remember these moments for a long time. To be honest, I think it’s only in India that I’ve experienced such emotional delights 🤩.

Have a great Sunday, friends! 😊

You’ve uncovered a real hat festival! Not bad aesthetically at all. Didn’t it feel a bit like a "One Thousand and One Nights" vibe? That’s the impression your photos give me.

So true, Joël! I’ll talk more about it later, but we really felt like we were in the land of a thousand and one nights at times. But what really blew me away is that, after traveling quite a bit around the world, it’s the first country we’ve seen where EVERY local in the ENTIRE country still wears traditional dress. I had no idea that still existed in 2024! !

And the women? All in black, like niqabs, just like in one of your photos?

Hang on, Kate—I’ll tell you more later, but there’s something for everyone (or almost everyone 😊) depending on the region.



The niqab worn by the woman in the photo is typical of the "desert farmers," if I understood correctly. But once again, they’re very tolerant, and I was able to wander around with my hair down everywhere without attracting a single disapproving look.

So true, Joël! I’ll talk more about it later, but we really felt like we were in the land of a thousand and one nights at times

Okay, from what I remember, it’s still Aladdin with his 3.5L 6-cylinder Toyota, right?

I’ll give you that, Bruno: they’ve kept the traditional attire, but they ditched the flying carpet a long time ago! 😂

Hi Christelle,

What a beautiful gallery of portraits (male, obviously)! Congratulations! !

ALL the locals in the WHOLE country still wear traditional dress. I had no idea this still existed in 2024!

This is the case in Bhutan. It’s even mandatory by royal decree to wear the national costume in schools, universities, professional life, government offices, sacred places, and during ceremonies, etc.

https://www.myatlas.com/H%C3%A9rodote/bhoutan-ultime-royaume-himalayen/t/1007131

Also, in Algeria and Morocco, the traditional women’s garment was (is it still?) the haik.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/43/N%C2%B03_HA%C3%8FK.jpg/2560px-N%C2%B03_HA%C3%8FK.jpg

Thanks Michel for this cultural tidbit 👍😃

We owe Michel a lot for the culture 🙂

And now I can hear you all from here: "Yeah, sure, the sea, the desert, the wadis, and the people are great, but where are the old stones? Where are the old stones?" Well, they’re right near Nizwa, so off we go.



We start with Harat Al Bilad heritage (bless you), an old ruined village in Omani Pompeii style—except there’s not a soul around!



No surprise, it’s closed!

While driving on the highway, we stumble upon a gigantic mosque and decide to visit it—but again, not a soul in sight.



No surprise, it’s closed too!!

Undeterred, we head to Jabreen Fort, one of the most beautiful in the country (and there are over 500 here!!), and—still no one around!!! But thankfully, it’s open.

Right at the entrance, we come across three stunning women in chadors getting their hands painted with henna. Yes, they’re there for tourists, and it’s perfect timing for me—I’m up for some foot art. It’s Fay, 26, who takes care of me—a true artist with delicate gestures, answering my questions in a soft, shy, and smiling voice.



We settle under a Bedouin tent, and while she works, I let my hair down to dry in the gentle breeze (yes, this tiny detail really matters, I swear!). She creates a pedicure masterpiece, and we wrap it up with a souvenir photo with her friends. And then—without even trying—I think I hit the photographic jackpot: It looks like a travel ad for Omani tolerance!!!



Vibe: "In Oman, come as you are" 😊

After that, we stop to feast near Bahla Fort.



And I end the day with a visit to Nizwa Fort.



Two hostesses greet me at the ticket counter, ask for my nationality, and then say in perfect French with big smiles, "Welcome!" followed by, "But your outfit isn’t appropriate!" Ugh, I didn’t bring the special long dress for mosques/forts! No problem—I’m not the first, and everything’s provided. So I put on what feels like 10 kg of lilac fabric (or close to it)... and promptly trip over it on every single step of the fort (and there are *so* many!!). Yeah, I know—no doubt about it, this is *not* my fashion week (see the tiny photo at the very bottom so I don’t ruin the whole vibe 😅).

When I’m tired of climbing all those stairs, I sit down and just people-watch.



It’s Friday, the Muslim world’s Sunday, so lots of locals are visiting from Muscat or elsewhere (kind of like a French person visiting Chambord). And honestly, it’s great to see these families together—because since we arrived, about 90% of the people we’ve seen have been men. But we’re not judging—here, that’s just how it is.

I find a viewpoint to wait for the sunset, and there’s a family there struggling to take a selfie—it’s tough fitting two adults and four kids in the frame. Dad and the boys are in jeans and T-shirts, the young girl is veiled, and the mom is in a full burka—I can only see her eyes. But check this out... her burka is *gold*. I offer to take their photo, and the girl asks where I’m from: "Ooooh, France! It’s the first time I’ve met a French person," she says. I ask her the same, and—Pakistan!!! So I gave her the same answer. You’ll never guess—when we were leaving the fort and they were a little far away, the whole family waved goodbye, including the mom!! So now Pakistan is on our travel list.

Then, while admiring the sunset over Nizwa, I meet Elisa.



She’s from Poland and speaks perfect French. And perfect English. And perfect German too! She’s clearly been traveling for a while, and when she tells me she saw the bullfights an hour from Muscat, I know I’m dealing with a real explorer. Few people know about it, let alone have seen that unique spectacle. We’re thrilled to invite Elisa to spend the evening with us and swap travel stories. So now Uganda and its chimpanzees are on our travel list too!!

And that’s how another beautiful day ends—with four French septuagenarians sitting at our table at the restaurant... who live in Dax, Pouillon, and Candresse, less than 10 km from our home! It was hilarious at first... Less so when, multiple times, the woman from Dax tapped my shoulder while I was deep in conversation with Elisa to ask me to explain every single dish on the menu!

I think she could use a lesson in Omani etiquette 😊.

Good evening

Pakistan, Uganda—watch out for your encounters, or you won’t have enough pages in your passport!! And not enough lifetimes to fill them 😅 That said, some beautiful encounters and the soul of a journey make it all worth it!

So I added Pakistan to our list of countries to visit.

So I added Uganda and its chimpanzees to our list of countries to visit!!

She’s from Poland and speaks perfect French.

So you didn’t add Poland? 😛

Poor thing, she’s giving us a great recap of her trip and all we remember is her travel list! 😂 Anyway, Dax seems like a place to avoid unless you’ve got armor 😅 But seriously, why not Poland? 🤔

If I liked cheap stereotypes, I could tell you I don’t like the cold or vodka 😄 but it’s really that I loooove losing my bearings on other continents

And now, I can already hear you saying, "Yeah, the sea, the desert, the wadis, the people, and the old stones are all well and good, but where are the mountains?"



Well, as usual, they’re right next door—just 2 hours from Nizwa, where we’re going to spend a night on the roof of JEBEL SHAMS (which translates to "the mountain of the sun").



It’s the country’s highest mountain (3,000 meters), sometimes called "the Grand Canyon of Arabia," one of Oman’s top attractions.



Here, even more than elsewhere, every hour has its own scenery. So we did it all: Jebel Shams in the morning, Jebel Shams at noon, and Jebel Shams in the evening (or rather, sunset at 5 PM, sunrise at 6 AM, and a little goodbye at 10 AM), wandering around with the queens of the site—long-haired goats I’m totally obsessed with 🤩



As usual, the place is hard to describe. It’s *huge*, and every 50 meters, the view changes completely. But mostly, it’s breathtaking!!



Forget the hyper-safety we’re used to back home: no railings, no barriers, no guardrails, no safety nets—you get the idea! And beyond that, no signs, no restrictions—everyone goes where they want and parks wherever they want… preferably right at the edge of their car.



Here, the "road-tripper" is more like a "four-by-four enthusiast," and it’s a way of life that’s totally local (or even Middle Eastern, I imagine). Whenever possible, people pack up and head into nature to spend the night around a campfire (which is how *you* feel like an archaeologist when you stumble upon dozens of extinguished fire pits dotting Jebel Shams in the morning).

And maybe you’re thinking, "Okay, but if everyone does what they want, what a mess!" But no, not at all—because Omanis are incredibly well-mannered (with a few exceptions, but you won’t find a single piece of trash anywhere in this country!). It’s totally contradictory for us, but while they practically worship their cars (and preferably *big* ones—they won’t take a single step without them!), they’re also huge nature lovers. Environmental preservation was actually one of the top priorities of the former sultan, who ruled here from 1970 to 2020: creating nature reserves, banning hunting nationwide, managing coastal areas and coral reefs, and enforcing strict urbanization rules. Here, everything blends perfectly into the environment, and no building exceeds 8 floors—even in the capital/urban area of a million people. I *love* it.



Speaking of which, who sees the hotel there 🤔?

But okay, rocks can get old after a while—time to go green now 😄😍

Ah, finally the mountains! I was wondering when they’d show up!

I got a little worried when I saw the 4x4 with its roof tent—thought Christelle had gone full camping mode! But phew, the hotel’s actually here! A hotel made of rocks, apparently 😄

Photo 2: the sunset, perfect timing. Photo of the goat: perfect fur

No doubt, Christelle, you're the queen of the popular travel journal!

If I’d imagined the temperature up there, I would’ve gone camping instead of hitting the pool, Bruno 😄

Not sure about this, Joel, but let's go wild—I'll take it as a compliment! 😄

What if it rushes at you and throws you off balance? 🏴‍☠️

Oh wow 🤯!! You’ve got more imagination than me, Kate. I’d thought it was the perfect spot to end it all, but not that I could’ve ended up blown to bits at the bottom of a canyon because of an Angora goat—at least it would’ve been original 😂. I found them really peaceful, and I know ruminants well since I have some at home. But anything’s possible in this crazy world, and you might be right—I could’ve narrowly escaped death. We’ll never know!

Oh 🤯!! You’ve got more imagination than me! But anything’s possible in this crazy world, and for all we know you might be right—I could’ve narrowly escaped death. We’ll never know for sure!

Well, actually, we *do* know: You’re here!

Can you believe it—I was just thinking yesterday, looking at some of the new travel journals being posted, that we’re still getting such great stuff. All those years of inactivity on VF haven’t dulled the people sharing these journals at all. Either way, I’m loving it.

PS Your reply had me cracking up!! 🙂