Questions about Tamil Nadu and Kerala

Hi there,

I’ve got a few questions about my upcoming 3.5-week trip to Tamil Nadu and Kerala (January 2025).

On the itinerary, we’re supposed to spend 3 or 4 days in Thanjavur (Tanjore). I thought the location would let us explore the surrounding area, but I’m realizing everything I want to see won’t fit into the schedule! I’d planned: 1 day to arrive from Pondicherry 1 day to go to Darasuram 1 day to go to Tiruchirappalli 1 day to head to Madurai with a stop in Chettinad Basically, we won’t see anything of Thanjavur itself! Should I skip one of the destinations?

In Kerala, after 3 days in Munnar, I’ve planned to spend a few days in Munroe Island since I didn’t get great feedback about Alleppey. I wanted to "wander" through the backwaters. Has anyone been there?

Finally, we’re ending the trip in Cherai. After booking, I realized the beaches seemed unusable (trash, rough sea...) and I’m pretty frustrated about not being able to swim. Unless there’s a better spot nearby?

Thanks for your input!

Hi Kate 😉

I really loved Tamil Nadu, but my trip was ages ago...

I didn’t continue to Kerala because of the monsoon (I traveled in the summer).

Plus, like you, I was craving some ocean and swimming.

But India isn’t really the place for beach vacations (Goa wasn’t too bad, but it’s the exception). So I headed to Sri Lanka instead...

Beaches in India are pretty dirty, and the ocean is rough. Indians aren’t really into sunbathing or swimming—more like a quick dip fully clothed...

For ideas on Tamil Nadu, check out Jef’s (Max68) travel journal here: https://www.myatlas.com/Max68/retour-du-tamil-nadu

Happy planning! !

Hi Kate,

I find your itinerary for Tamil Nadu a bit tight. One day here, one day there, "a stop in Chettinad"—it’s not really my style... These are almost all places that deserve at least a few days, especially the Chettinad region, but it’s up to you.

For swimming in Tamil Nadu, there are two decent-ish beaches in Mahabalipuram between Chennai and Pondicherry, including one where the waves and current were less strong. That’s the only spot I found for a swim during my 2018 trip. But still, you’ll have to lower your beach standards a bit. The beaches in Chennai are awful for swimming, and those in Pondicherry are only slightly better. It’s best to save swimming for Kerala. I’ll also point you to my Tamil Nadu travel journal—it should be linked in my profile if you want more details.

I’ve never been to Kerala, so I can’t say much about it.

Thanks to both of you for your replies.

Pagal, I’ll be spending 10 days in Tamil Nadu and 10 in Kerala. The first part of the trip is mostly for sightseeing, while the second will be more relaxed—we’ll take the time to do nothing, for example. I know, there’s so much to see and not enough time. That’s just how it is—we made the decision as a group of four, together with my travel companions. My question was about choices. During these 4 days in Thanjavur, which option from my earlier list would be best? I’ve started reading your travel journal. That beach photo and the accompanying text really make me want to go

beggars you’re not sure are still alive, piles of trash, dead rats in the middle of excrement, a huge slum, a foul stench, a putrid beach. I quickly turn back... Here’s a more "presentable" part:

I’ll keep reading this great account to get a feel for it 🙂

During these 4 days in Thanjavur, which option is best from my aforementioned list?

I didn’t realize this list was for the 4 days in Thanjavur?

What’s the 10-day itinerary for Tamil Nadu?

For a day trip, it’s best not to go beyond a 50/60-kilometer radius, given the average speed in India...

On re-reading, I realize I really didn’t express myself well 🤪

I didn’t understand that this list was for the 4 days in Tanjore?

We’ve planned 4 days in Tanjore (including the arrival and departure days) so we can travel in a star pattern without changing hotels. That’s when we’d spend a day in Tiruchirappalli, another in Darasuram, and stop in Chettinad on the day we head to Madurai. For this part, we’ll have a car with a driver—these distances seem manageable to me. The road doesn’t bother us, but I’m realizing that with this itinerary, we won’t really get to enjoy Tanjore. So, is that a mistake?

Our trip goes like this: 10 days for Tamil Nadu: Mahabalipuram, Pondicherry, Tanjore, Madurai + 10 days for Kerala: Munnar, Munroe Island, Cherai. Honestly, I think 20 days full across 7 stops isn’t that overwhelming! Yeah, I know it’s slow-going from our 3-week trip in Rajasthan 😉

Hi again Kate,

Thanjore (also known as Thanjavur) and Trichy (Tiruchirappalli) can both be great bases for exploring the area as you plan to do. They’re both lively cities, and I really enjoyed them—you can read more in my travel journal. That said, I preferred staying in Trichy for its more traditional vibe and the fact that there’s more to see, but it’s really a matter of taste and how you organize your trip. I didn’t go to Darasuram.

About the beaches in Chennai, not all sections are as awful as the one I described in my journal. The more central ones are nice for an evening stroll, with street food stalls and all, but definitely not for swimming. Overall, they’re still not exactly stunning...

and we’d stop in Chettinad on the way to Madurai

You mentioned Chettinad as a place where you could stop for an hour or two on the way to Madurai. But it’s actually an entire region that deserves at least a few days—if not a week or two—to explore properly! If you stick to your current itinerary, you’ll need to pick one or two spots in Chettinad to visit. The best choice depends on what you want to see there. I also refer you to my journal for a detailed account of my visit to Chettinad.

Oh yes, I know all too well how slow driving can be, thanks to our 3-week road trip in Rajasthan

Ah, so you’re the Kate who posted your travel journal on that other forum—the "transition" one (the idea was good, but let’s be honest, it didn’t quite work out)? I joined the discussion and really enjoyed reading about your discovery of India through Rajasthan. You’ll love Tamil Nadu too—it’s very different, even though you’re still very much in India.

I just got back from Rajasthan myself and was planning to publish a journal. I was hesitant about using the other forum since it’s not very user-friendly, but VoyageForum reopening has convinced me to give it a try soon if I can find the time.

Ah, you're the Kate who posted your travel journal on the other "transition" forum

I don’t change my username depending on the forum 😛😉

If you stick to your itinerary plan, you’ll need to stop in one or two places in Chettinad. The choice will depend on what you want to see there

I’m worried about temple overload... That’s what happened when I went to Sri Lanka.

Moi, je ne change pas de pseudo selon les forums

Me, I do 😉😛

I was afraid of overdosing on temples... It happened when I went to Sri Lanka.

Well, you just need to avoid visiting too many temples and see other things 😛 More seriously, Chettinadu is a bit different from the rest of Tamil Nadu. There aren’t any cities as big as Trichy, Tanjore, or Madurai, nor temples as monumental as in those places. There are just two medium-sized towns (Karaikudi and Pudukkottai) and villages where you can see the famous old mansions of Chettiar merchants, quite similar to the havelis of Rajasthan, or small temples and open-air shrines dedicated to local deities scattered across the Chettinadu countryside. And plenty of other things too... I’ll refer you to my travel journal for the details!

Hi there! So glad to be back on this forum. I think your itinerary in Tamil Nadu is a bit too rushed. Kanchipuram is a really interesting city. From there, you can head to Tharangambadi (Transquebar)—the beach is beautiful and clean, but watch out for the waves. Four days in Thanjavur seems like a lot, and just one day in Chettinad feels too short. I agree with Paga. Their travel journal was super interesting—I reread it this summer 😊😍! Mariejo

Hi Marie-Jo, and glad to contribute to your summer reading! Are you moving back too?

Hey there! Oh yes, I’m coming back with great pleasure, but I’m not sure I’ll have the courage or the time to repatriate the travel journals about Rajasthan. I went to Barmer and thought of you—I really loved it!😊😄

Hi there! 🙂

I think your itinerary in Tamil Nadu is too rushed.

Me too 😛 We chose this itinerary for the four of us. If it had been up to me, I would’ve just gone to Kerala. Or another version: Tamil Nadu with a short one-week extension to the Andaman Islands. We’ll be there for 23 days. Everyone makes compromises—mine will be to hang back and take photos while my friends visit temple after temple. Thanks for the tip about Tharangambadi—I’ll keep it in mind!

There was a show recently about Tamil Nadu on TV, I think on channel 3. It was really interesting and well done.

I went to Barmer and thought of you a lot—I really loved it

Of course, I’ve been following your travel journals and happily revisited the Kiradu temple! So many memories...

You can visit Darasuram and Gangaikondacholapuram on the way from Pondicherry to Tanjore. That’s what I did. These two temples are really nice and different from the other temples in the area. No weird, tacky colors...

Trichy from Tanjore—why not...

I stayed the most nights in Madurai. 3, I think, so 2 full days there. I think I also made a stop in Chettinad between Tanjore and Madurai (we rented a car for 2 days from Pondicherry to Madurai with one night in Tanjore). Mahabalipuram to Pondicherry by taxi and Madurai to Trichy by train.

I also like to explore from one base. But not in India... Their roads and driving style are exhausting.

As for temple overload, I didn’t feel that way. Watching the Indians and the colorful temples in the south is such a spectacle—they’re so kitschy that I never get tired of them.😄 That said, I never take a guide. Personally, that’s what wears me out.

For beaches, I’ll say it again—Sri Lanka. There were flights from Trichy.

Same comment I made to Kate: why do you say "à Chettinad" as if it were a city when it's a region? It’s a bit like saying "I made a quick stop in Brittany, it was nice"...

Because in my case, it was really just a stopover... To be honest, I don’t remember any of it 🤪 But I do remember the different temples. Not much memory of Pondicherry either.

So in the future, you’ll stop saying "in Chettinad" and start saying "to the Chettinad". Otherwise, I’ll stop making stops in India 😛

Of course, but that won’t bring back my memories of the place. 🤪

It's a real shame, Chettinad is truly a stunning region with treasures scattered a bit everywhere. It’s not really suited for a quick stop—you’ll want to spend a few days there and explore the countryside from different spots.

You know what they say—choosing means giving something up! 😛 But from now on, I’ll say, "We’ll make a stop in Chettinad." And once I’ve been to Chettinad, I’ll come back here to tell you all about it! 😉

Yeah, unfortunately travel always means making trade-offs. And I’d love to follow your travel journal, just like I did for Rajasthan—including your stop in Chettinad!

Same comment I made to Kate: why do you say "in Chettinad" as if it were a city when it's a region? It’s a bit like saying "I made a quick stop in Brittany, it was nice"...

😏 😉😇

Hi Kate, We were in India in 2017 and focused on Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Karnataka. I think your itinerary might be a bit tight because getting around in India isn’t easy—even though we hired a driver who knew the region well and took us to some lesser-known spots. As for the beaches, it’s best to skip them. In Mamallapuram, my husband insisted on swimming despite the waves and ended up losing his glasses. The beaches are dirty, unsafe, and no one really swims there. That said, we loved watching the fishermen. We fell in love with the south of the country and some of its villages. Alleppey, Ooty and its train—it’s all about taking your time. Have a great trip and enjoy yourselves! Nad

Hi there,

I think your itinerary might be a bit tight because getting around in India isn’t easy, and yet we opted for a driver who knew the region and showed us some off-the-beaten-path spots.

Seven stops with three nights in each matches our trip’s goal: a circuit. I’ve heard worse in terms of pace ;) Thanks for the tip about Ooty—I hadn’t heard of it before.

hi there! yes, 7 stops with 3 nights in each is awesome. In Ooty, we were lucky enough to visit a park and meet some Gaurs (even the driver was thrilled). In Mysore, you *have* to see the Maharaja’s Palace. In Thanjavur, the Brihadeeswarar Temple is worth seeing at different times of day because the granite changes color. In Alleppey, you can watch snake-boat races with 100 rowers. Watch out for fake guides!!!!! The monkeys are mischievous too—one jumped into the car through a window, grabbed a cake, and bolted out another window while we were driving. Good laugh!

Hi Kate, In Kerala, by the coast, there’s Varkala. Sure, it’s touristy, but what a relaxing vibe walking along the cliff overlooking the beach, with plenty of little restaurants and handicraft shops. You can swim, but it’s not super comfortable because of the stares from the men.

Sandrine

Thanks Sandrine, but we won’t be going that far south. In any case, I’ll keep the place in mind since it seems you end up coming back to India multiple times! (This’ll be my 3rd time 😉)

It's true, we visit other countries but we keep coming back to India again and again ;)

Regarding the Mahabs hotel, I stayed there several years ago, most recently in 2017. It’s true that it had aged quite a bit, but the pool was still well maintained, and the layout of the floors with armchairs and a small outdoor table is really nice. Above all, its proximity on foot to the sights, the village, and the stone sculptors makes it a great base. However, I don’t know if the buses still park at the hotel exit—if they do, the rooms on that side are best avoided, as it gets noisy early in the morning.

Sandrine

Mahabs was mentioned on forums, but the info was old. Since the Booking reviews weren’t great, we went with Squirrel Guesthouse.

You can visit Darasuram and Gangaikondacholapuram on the way from Pondicherry to Tanjore.

These two temples are really nice and different from the other temples in the area. No weird, tacky colors...

I confirm. These two temples are stunning. Gangaikondacholapuram is a must-see.

Now that I "know" you a bit from reading your travel journal about Rajasthan, you absolutely mustn’t miss the forest temples dedicated to the god Ayyanar on your route. I think I recently posted an article and photos on my site since you’ve visited—unless it’s still a draft and not published? If so, I’ll post some photos here. There are also Jain cave temples in the same area. The rock-cut temple in Pudukkottai is amazing and a must-see.

Chettinad is EXTRAORDINARY! Want me to post photos here?

For incredible beaches, you’ve got to come to my place in Kannur, though it’s not at all on your itinerary. For example, just a few kilometers from Kannur, there’s "MA" beach. About 700 meters from my house, there’s a huge, deserted 5 km-long beach—spotless. I walk there every morning. Just a few fishermen casting their nets. The water is at 31°C. Sometimes it’s rough with waves, sometimes very calm—just a matter of luck and timing. One section is lifeguarded during peak Indian hours, between 4 PM and 7 PM. But they’re all clustered in the same spot at the entrance. Walk 50 meters left or right, and you’ll have the place to yourself. Occasionally, young couples—either pre-wedding or just married—come to get their photos taken. The outfits are *so* kitsch for the souvenir shots. Otherwise, it’s completely empty between 6 AM and 4 PM. I also know another beach a bit further north, on a sort of island. You have to cross the backwaters to get there, but I think it’s become more touristy lately, so it’s now frequented by Indian tourists.

And then there’s Theyyam here!!!

But it’s too far north of Kochi (Cochin) for your plans...

You really shouldn’t miss the forest temples dedicated to the god Ayyanar along your route. I think I recently posted an article and some photos on my site since you’ve visited it.

I browsed your site and Pagal’s travel journal at the same time. I can’t remember who’s talking about what anymore Where exactly are these forest temples in the woods?

The rock-cut temple in Pudukkottai is amazing and a must-see.

We’ll stop there—it’s on the route between Tanjore and Madurai, well, the scenic route that goes through the heart of Chettinad. We’ve also spotted a village, Kanadukathan, where we’d like to make a stop.

Chettinad is EXTRAORDINARY! Want me to share photos here?

Yes, please! That’d give us a preview since we haven’t included it in our itinerary (we’ll just be passing through).

Sure, I’d love that—it’ll give me an idea since we didn’t include it in our itinerary (we’re just passing through).

Pudukkottai and Kanadukathan are in Chettinad! Pudukkottai is the region’s second-largest city, really nice to visit, with some lovely temples in the countryside nearby, like those in Namunasamudram and Narthamalai. Kanadukathan is a village famous for its beautiful Chettiar merchant mansions (not too different from the havelis in Rajasthan) and some gorgeous rural temples in the area too.

You really shouldn’t miss the forest temples dedicated to the god Ayyanar along your route. I think I recently posted an article and some photos on my site, since you’ve visited it.

I was browsing your site and Pagal’s travel journal at the same time. I can’t remember who’s talking about what anymore Where exactly are these forest temples in the middle of the woods?

The rock-cut temple in Pudukkottai is amazing and a must-see.

We’ll definitely stop there—it’s on the route between Tanjore and Madurai, well, the scenic route that goes through the heart of Chettinad. We’ve also spotted a village, Kanadukathan, where we’d like to make a stop.

Chettinad is EXTRAORDINARY! Want me to share some photos here?

Yes, please! That’d give us a preview since we didn’t include it in our itinerary (we’ll just be passing through).

I was about to reply, but Pagal beat me to it... He and I often share the same favorites. I remember the stunning houses in Kanadukathan where the "less fortunate relatives" lived, guarding them in architectural splendor but with unreliable electricity and no running water or any kind of modern comfort.

Hi there, Three and a half weeks is enough to visit from Chennai to Kerala. Public transport is tiring. Especially avoid the electric bus—they’re so slow. The best option is a car with a driver. There are agencies that offer tailor-made packages including hotels. Alleppey wasn’t great in my opinion. Munnar, on the other hand, is a lively town with plenty of places to visit. I’d advise against swimming in the sea in a swimsuit. You’ll attract a lot of attention, and some spots have dangerous currents. Don’t skip Pondicherry. Weekends are the best time to go. Make sure to book your hotel in advance.

Hello, Three and a half weeks is enough to visit from Chennai to Kerala. Public transport is tiring. Especially, you should avoid the electric bus—it moves slowly. The best option is a car with a driver. There are agencies that offer tailor-made packages including hotels. Alleppey wasn’t great in my opinion. Munnar is a lively town with places to visit. I’d advise against swimming in the sea in a swimsuit. You’ll attract a lot of admirers, and some areas have dangerous currents. Don’t skip Pondicherry. Weekends are better. It’s best to book your hotel in advance.

Funny, these opinions... Almost everything said here is the opposite of what I’d say—and what I’d advise against... Goes to show, all our tips are very subjective. Good luck, Kate, with sorting it all out!

Three and a half weeks are enough to visit from Chennai to Kerala.

It’s a matter of perspective and how you travel. I don’t really agree, but it’s doable if you move a bit quickly.

Above all, avoid the electric bus—it goes really slow. The best option is a car with a driver.

The electric bus??

I’d advise against swimming in the sea in a swimsuit. You’ll attract a lot of attention, and some areas have dangerous currents.

It depends on where... There are still beaches where Western women wear swimsuits and people can swim.

Don’t skip Pondicherry. Weekends are better. You should book your hotel in advance.

I agree that Pondicherry is worth a visit. But "better on weekends"? That’s the worst time to explore Pondi: Indian tourists flood the city with their cars, it’s packed everywhere, and they’re drunk and loud in the streets and hotels at night. On weekends, Pondicherry turns into a crowded, noisy, and polluted Indian party.

You should book your hotel in advance.

Which hotel?

Your take is, shall we say, "subjective"—so take it with a grain of salt

Shows how all our advice is very subjective. Good luck Kate with sorting it all out!

The country itself is polarizing! Everyone has a different take on India, and opinions are often black and white: you either love it or you don’t. But all the tips are helpful—they let us filter things out, think a bit more carefully, optimize our travel plans, and even consider visits we might not have thought of. That’s exactly what we just did thanks to this discussion.

Shows how subjective all our advice is. Good luck, Kate, with sorting it all out! !

The country itself is polarizing! No one feels the same way about India, and opinions are often black and white: you either love it or you don’t. But all the tips are helpful—they let us filter things out, think a bit more carefully, optimize our travels, and plan visits we might not have considered otherwise. That’s exactly what we’ve just done thanks to this discussion.

Speaking of which, I’m surprised you’re skipping Rameswaram. A stunning temple, a pilgrimage town. The spectacle is everywhere: in the temple, in the streets, on the square at sunrise... Plus, that endless beach stretching to a village abandoned after being buried in sand by a natural disaster, lined with fishermen’s huts. For me, Rameswaram is a must-see in this area... I’m working on this for you. Looking for photos of this whole part of your trip...

don’t miss Darasuram, Gangakongacholapuram, or—as already mentioned—the Chettinad. More photos to come, but sorting them, formatting them, and uploading takes time. I’m taking a break.

Rameswaram is too far south for our itinerary, Darasuram is planned, Gangakongacholapuram if we have time, and Chettinad only for a short stop.

I know what you're thinking 😉 We should’ve done one trip to Tamil Nadu and another to Kerala. If it were up to me, I’d spend a week in each place, but I can’t be away from home that long, and I don’t have the budget for it. So our choice is to get a "glimpse" without rushing around too much. As I said: 3 full days on average at each site (8 different accommodations), kind of like we did in Rajasthan, and we don’t regret it!

Hi there!

I’m looking for a train ticket from Pondicherry to Tanjore. We usually used the 12go Asia site, but it no longer offers trains for this route! I found the Rayatri company. https://www.railyatri.in/

The Pondy to Tanjore tickets I’d spotted on 12go Asia are available on this site. Has anyone heard of it? Is it reliable? What do "3A tier" and "2A" mean? What’s the difference?

Thanks! 🙂

Isn’t IRCTC the official site?

This site and others will give you plenty of info about Indian trains.

I personally traveled in 2AC during the day. It was already a memorable experience...

(It’s more about space than comfort in AC classes. The less you pay, the more cramped you’ll be.)

Hello

I'm looking for a train ticket from Pondicherry to Tanjore. We used to use the 12go Asia site, but it no longer offers trains for this route! I found the Rayatri company. https://www.railyatri.in/

The Pondy to Tanjore tickets I had spotted on 12go Asia are available on this site. Does anyone know it? Is it reliable? What do 3A tier and 2A mean? What’s the difference?

Thanks 🙂

Hi Kate, no, I don’t know Rayatri. I mainly use the Ixigo app—it’s really good, reliable, and easy to use. But I’m not sure you can use it from France... Otherwise, there’s also MakeMyTrip, but again, it might not work from France... Unless you have a VPN? If you can’t manage, I can try to make the reservations for you with Ixigo. I’ll let you know the price, and you can transfer the money to my Indian account...

What does 3A tier mean? And 2A? What’s the difference?

3A tier is third-class air-conditioned. It’s plenty for daytime travel in my opinion, given the big price difference with 2A tier. At night, 2A is more comfortable for the berths, and there are only 4 per compartment instead of 6 in 3A tier. 2A is second-class non-air-conditioned. Toilets aren’t always spotless. 🤪

Small correction!

The 3A is indeed the air-conditioned class with 6 berths (3 on each side), while the 2A is the same with 4 berths (2 on each side). If I'm not mistaken, it's the same as 3AC and 2AC. 3A and 2A are just the short forms for 3AC tier and 2AC tier. The Sleeper class is exactly the same as 3AC but without AC and with fans.

The non-AC class without berths that Marien mentioned is the 2S: not recommended unless you really love adventure and want to add an extra challenge to your trip (or have no other choice) 😎

If you're traveling as a group of four, book a 2A compartment—you'll have it to yourselves. Unless you want company, then go for 3A!

Toilets not always spotless

In all classes!