Ethiopia and Two Endemic Animals

The reopening of the forum is great news—let's keep it going! I’m going to share a little story about this 12-day trip, which was my second-to-last journey and my most recent one in Africa for now.

I went to this country for one very specific reason: to see two endemic animal species. A little suspense… you’ll find out what they are soon if you don’t already know!

The country is poor, very poor even. And it hits you even harder when you arrive in the capital: a massive open-air construction site that gives an impression of prosperity. A lot of roads were built by the Chinese, but to be honest, they’re far from perfect… and I mean *far*!

When it comes to restaurants, it’s pretty much the same story. Most offer endless menus, but in reality, there aren’t many choices. Once, I was flat-out told: “No rice today!” Ordering a dish? It’s a real gamble! The food is *very* spicy—I’m warning you, it’s intense! There’s chili in almost everything, so it’s best to ask beforehand if you don’t want your mouth on fire. Actually, this was the first time I didn’t like the food in a country I visited. Had to happen eventually, right?

Their national dish? Injera. A large flatbread topped with sauces, vegetables, and meat. The taste is really unique—some love it, others… not so much.

Hi Régis, Definitely great news that the forum is reopening—I hope it’ll allow us to share some amazing experiences. Anyway, your story is already off to a mouthwatering start!

We’ve got a full day of driving ahead to reach Bale Mountains National Park. Then, after about 2 hours on a bumpy dirt track, we’ll finally arrive at the high plateaus, over 3,500 m above sea level, where we’ll set up camp.

Up there, there’s not much: a small hut occupied by EWCP staff, where we can have our meals. Otherwise, just a few tents that our guides will pitch in no time. No phone signal for 6 days—a real digital detox that feels great!









In June, the nights are chilly and the days pleasant. The kniphofias, in full bloom, cover some areas, though they’re becoming rarer due to human activity. Locals still take advantage of them, sucking the nectar from these sweet flowers like lollipops.

Hey Régis 😉

It’s super basic! And I’m not even talking about the lack of signal.

That’s the least we can say, but there’s absolutely nothing up there

The Ethiopian wolf, an endemic species of Ethiopia, is classified as endangered by the IUCN. In fact, there are only about 500 individuals left in Ethiopia, with 300 living in the Bale Mountains National Park, our destination for this trip.

Spotting these wolves in the wild is a rare privilege. However, it’s well worth the effort: we’ll spend a week at 3,500 meters above sea level, cut off from the world.

At this time of year, the landscapes are lush and in bloom, featuring the stunning Kniphofia, whose nectar is enjoyed by the wolves—just like children.





This canid’s main diet consists primarily of mole-rats. The rats can detect the sound of the wolf’s paws and quickly retreat into underground tunnels. The wolf then frantically digs into the soil to catch its meal. It may also stealthily approach by blending in with herds of cows, masking the sound of its steps among the cattle’s.

Wolves live in packs but can spend the night alone, curled up in a ball to protect themselves from the cold. In the morning, the pack reunites to play and cuddle. By the end of the day, the adults regurgitate their food to feed the pups.











Climate change is also disrupting the wolves' birth cycles. We’ve observed young wolves that should be independent by this time of year. Let’s hope they can survive the upcoming lean season.

Régis, what a great idea for a travel journal in Ethiopia! A country that’s been on my wish list for ages: mountains, isolation, and wildlife—everything I love. 🙂

The photos of the canid are stunning. It’s easy to see why it’s sometimes called the "Abyssinian fox." 😉 But tell me, that’s a lot of sightings in just a few days for such a rare animal, sometimes at close range (or so it seems) and with young... Does the agency use feeding to attract them?

Hi Franck,

Just a heads-up—you can’t drive yourself in Ethiopia; you’re required to hire a driver.

Don’t worry, there’s no feeding involved. We were in a conservation area for Ethiopian wolves managed by EWCP. We had great guides who knew where to find them, even though the area is huge. Plus, at this time of year, it’s all green, so you can spot them from far away thanks to their color.

The photos of the canid are superb.

Thanks! :)

It’s hard-earned, but what amazing sightings and what stunning photos! 🙂

I read that this animal is also called the Simien jackal. It really does look like the jackals you see in Southern Africa.

(The Ethiopian wolf would love the Volcanoes Park in Auvergne, packed with voles...)

The Webb Plateau or Bale Mountains National Park is also teeming with birds. At this time of year, when the Kniphofias are in full bloom, they have plenty of choices for feeding on nectar or eating small insects on the ground.

Tacazze Sunbird (Endemic species)



Rufous-breasted Wheatear



However, the true rulers of the high plateaus are the raptors. They relentlessly hunt the abundant wildlife, pouncing from one burrow to another. The giant mole-rat must double down on cunning to survive, while hares, small rodents, and rock hyraxes sustain this incredible ecosystem.

Brown Snake Eagle



Lanner Falcon

Augur Buzzard



Tawny Eagle, juvenile

What stunning photos!

Just one question: Is livestock allowed to graze in the park, and thus the local population to move around there?

Thanks Din,

Livestock isn’t allowed in the park, just like dogs, which must be kept on a leash. Unfortunately, dogs can carry diseases like rabies and distemper. Livestock is less of an issue. You’ll notice in this photo a colored tag on their ear: that means they’ve been vaccinated.

We can’t really blame them, considering everything happening back home with wolves, lynxes, foxes, and other badgers.

You're welcome, and thanks for the reply!

Personally, I’m not throwing any stones—they can keep their animal protection policies that exclude humans from natural spaces. I was just a little surprised because in Africa, it’s usually the opposite of what we see here.

Awooooh, the woooolves! (Seems like French farmers are starting to accept them better.) And your photos are so stunning that my screen froze (no joke!).

The Webb plateau No phone signal for 6 days — a real digital detox that does so much good!

No connection on the Webb plateau? What’s Starlink up to!?

And your photos are so beautiful that my screen froze when I tried to display them (true story!).

awesome 😂😂 and thanks

The Webb Plateau No phone signal for 6 days — a real digital detox that feels great!

No connection on the Webb Plateau? What’s Starlink up to!?

It’s not even available in South Africa, so imagine in Ethiopia! But it’s actually nice to be cut off from the world, as long as it doesn’t last too long

Once again, you’ve outdone yourself. Since you switched gear, it’s even more amazing!

Once again, you’ve outdone yourself. Since you switched gear, it’s even more amazing!

Thanks Léo

Hi Régis, Thanks for contributing to the forum since its reopening 🙂

What are your travel dates? Any safety concerns?

Hi Anne,

You're very welcome—happy to help! The trip was at the end of May, beginning of June. I’ll talk more about safety later.

Hello Régis,

Congrats on these amazing photos of Ethiopian wolves! 🐺

I can’t wait to read the rest of your travel journal! !

Hi Régis, greetings to all travelers!

For those interested, below is a link to recent articles on my blog that illustrate our trip to Ethiopia (November 2017). The blog is free to access, with no ads.

A backpacking trip as a couple.

Wanderings from Ethiopia to the Nile Delta (Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt)

I’m not a "photographer"—the pictures in my posts aren’t as high-quality as the ones you share!

Best regards and have a great day, everyone!

Alain

Season 4: From Abyssinia to the Nile Delta... (November 2017 to March 2018) Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt - Le Ranquet en vadrouille

Well, Régis, normally it's you who keeps me updated with the news ;) lucky a mutual friend sent me a PM

Even though I'd already seen your wolf photos, it's great to see them again, and thanks for bringing the forum back to life.

Personally, I don't know if I'll have the energy to start travel journals again

Personally, I don’t know if I’ll have the courage to make travel journals again

I think I will. 😛

Before I left, my mom said: "Why are you going there? They spend all their time at war." Well, she wasn’t entirely wrong. The wilder place we were supposed to visit is caught up in tribal conflicts, and it’s strongly advised not to go there.

So, it’s time to leave the highlands and their tranquility behind and head to our next destination: Fitche, in the Oromia region. Here too, there are some tensions, but this time with neighboring countries. Soldiers and military equipment are being moved from the barracks to other locations. You have to enter the city before 6 PM because after that, it’s very difficult to get in—the road is blocked.

As for safety, I didn’t wander around the capital, so I can’t say, but in Fitche, we walked around without feeling any hostility, just curiosity. And if you buy them some doughnuts, they’ll be delighted. The hardest part is making yourself understood to avoid ending up with something that’ll burn your throat! Few white people come to this region.

Most Ethiopians are Christian, and the vast majority are Orthodox. They have a habit of starting liturgical chants, called Zema, as early as 3 AM. If you have a church nearby, it can get annoying because the chants go on for a good part of the day. Different churches take turns, so it’s not the same ones every day.

Before

After

Coffee preparation, always served by a woman



Our hotel—the vibe is close to *The Shining*, just missing the snow



The famous samosas or doughnuts

Personally, I don’t know if I’ll have the courage to make travel journals again

I think you will. 😛

Well, you seem to know me better than I know myself, Léo

Don’t you ever look back at your travel journals and think how handy it is that they’re so easily accessible—even for you? That’s what I was thinking.

Of course 👍 it was a joke 😄

She sure hasn’t lost her sense of humor! 😉

Well Régis, normally it's you who keeps me updated on the news ;) luckily a mutual friend sent me a PM

That mutual friend is me!!! 🎉 I missed her too much 😊 Welcome back Isa!

Well, Régis, normally it's you who keeps me updated on the news ;) luckily a mutual friend sent me a PM! ]

That mutual friend is me!!! 🎉 I missed her too much 😊 Welcome back, Isa!

Yes, thanks Bruno for reminding me 😊 we're back now 👋

Among the most iconic are the geladas, nicknamed the "lion monkeys" because of their impressive mane.

These monkeys live in harems, led by a dominant male surrounded by his females and their young. The females are very close-knit but don’t hesitate to leave the group to join a more powerful male if the opportunity arises.

To wrap up this amazing trip to Ethiopia, a quick word on the organization. I went on this adventure with the talented photographer Adrien Lesafre. The organization was perfect from start to finish, with top-notch guides, especially for the part dedicated to the wolves, which you need to know how to spot on the vast plateaus of the park.

Thanks for following along, and see you soon for more adventures… but not in Africa this time!

Oh darn, it's already over 😢 Thanks for this update—your photos are as stunning as ever! It’s a country on my list, but I’ll admit the security uncertainties have held me back so far. Plus, I’d love to explore it without a guide, which doesn’t seem easy given the infrastructure.

And I’d love to visit this country without a guide, which doesn’t seem easy given the infrastructure.

From what I know, to drive in Ethiopia you need an Ethiopian license, which you can only get if you have a valid residence permit. And it’s a country that isn’t very developed for welcoming tourists.

Hi there, A really lovely travel journal—thanks! Gorgeous photos and a great story. You’ve got real talent! !

The wolf inspires me more than the monkey!

Thanks for this travel journal, Régis.🙂

Thanks Michel for taking the time to read this travel journal

I agree with you, but this monkey is also really beautiful :)

Thanks Régis for introducing us to this country. The gelada monkeys are really photogenic 😉

Thanks for following along, and see you soon for more adventures... but not in Africa this time!

Can't wait to see the rest of your adventures... don't think I've seen any photos yet ;)

Can't wait to see the rest of your adventures... I don't think I've seen any photos yet 😉

Yeah, I know, I'm running late—I’m copying someone

Ah, Ethiopia. A country I dream of discovering… Thanks for the travel journal! I’ve really missed journals with beautiful photos.

I love your photos of the wolf. It must’ve been quite the adventure to meet them.

Yes, the atmosphere was incredible with that feeling of being alone in the world

Rest assured, there’s no feeding involved—we’re in a conservation area for Ethiopian wolves managed by EWCP. We had great guides who know where they are, even though the area is huge. Plus, at this time of year, it’s all green, so you can spot them from far away thanks to their color.

Better late than never—thanks for your reply and that lovely travel journal. 🙂 Ethiopia’s been on my wishlist for ages (even more so now 😉), but it’s not exactly a hotspot. Especially right now, which is totally understandable.

Quick question about the budget for a trip like this—specifically the part focused on the Ethiopian wolf?

Thanks Franck,

So, excluding airfare, it’s 3,450 € with the French-speaking guide. Getting to the plateaus is tricky—few agencies are keen to send 4x4s up there.

We met an English guy who did it on foot, but then it’s tough to spot a wolf.

It’s a country with so much to offer but lacks the infrastructure to welcome tourists, which is a real shame.

For now, if you want to visit the rock-hewn churches and the desert with the volcano, you’ll need an armed guard—that’s not exactly motivating.

I think Max68 wrote a travel journal about this destination.

"For now, if you want to go where the rock-hewn churches and the desert with the volcano are, you have to take an armed guard—that’s not very motivating."

Hello everyone,

For those interested, below is a link showcasing our visit to Lalibela (the monolithic churches).

Post from my blog (free access, no ads), a backpacking trip as a couple in December 2017.

Best regards, Alain

Ethiopia 12: Lalibela, the "Mecca" of Ethiopian Christians... - Le Ranquet en vadrouille

These photos are absolutely stunning!

Thanks Régis for the details. Not cheap, indeed! 🤪 When the time comes... so once the situation has stabilized, I’ll probably go for the hiking option. 😉