Easy trek in Nepal for two older gentlemen

Hello, A few years ago, I visited Nepal. I have wonderful memories of it. My friend (77) and I (73) would like to go back. We’re still in good shape! But let’s not exaggerate either. So, we’re looking for a relaxed trek in the mid-mountains, in touch with the local people, passing near monasteries, and with beautiful views of the peaks. And no agencies! Can you give us some tips? Thanks a million

Hello Mr. Alain Pont, Among the several treks available based on your ability in Nepal, I personally recommend the "Annapurna Balcony Trek," Tamang Heritage Trek, Langtang Trek, Mardi Himal Trek, and Khopra Khayartal Lake Trek. Which trek did you do on your previous trip? Have a great day, Adventure!!!

Thanks for the info. Alain

With pleasure, tek

Hello, A few years ago, I visited Nepal. I have wonderful memories of it. My friend (77) and I (73) would like to go back. We’re still in good shape! But let’s not exaggerate either. So, we’re looking for a relaxed trek in the mid-mountains, in contact with the local population, passing near monasteries, and with beautiful views of the peaks. And no agencies! Can you help us out? Thanks a million!

Hi there. Here are my suggestions: 1-A trek in the Helambu region starting from Sundarijal (40 km from Kathmandu, 1-hour bus ride). Check what the agencies offer and choose the route based on the altitude and difficulty. 2- The Tamang Heritage Trail starting from Syabru Besi toward Gatlang/Tatopani, etc., over 4 or 5 days, then continue to the Langtang Valley as far as Kyanjin Gompa or toward the sacred lakes of Gosainkunda. Example route: https://www.nepatrek.com/trekkings/treks-langtang-gosaikunda/trek-tamang-heritage-trail/ It’s worth checking if it’s still possible to do treks without an agency or guide, as for about a year now, it supposedly hasn’t been allowed—but these rules were already put in place in the past and never really enforced in practice.

Thanks so much. I’ll look into all of this! Alain

There’s also the "Indigenous People Trail" that I did ages ago. It’s a pretty easy trek. You stay with locals every night. It’s close to KTM. willemspie explains it really well here: https://voyageforum.com/forum/indigenous-people-trail-court-trek-hors-chemins-battus-d8334524/

I still have a soft spot for: Pokhara-Jomsom flight and from there: by jeep to Kagbeni + on foot: the village is 1 hour away, nearby. Then: by jeep to Muktinath and explore the surrounding villages on foot. Advantage: plenty of flexibility to adjust your chosen routes. Stunning mineral landscapes (Lower Mustang!). Plus, since you already know Nepal, it’ll definitely feel like a change of scenery.

We're not really in what you'd call trekking anymore, it seems to me... On another note, I don’t think it’s wise or useful to take a Jeep for the Jomsom/Kagbeni route! It’s barely a 2-hour walk with very little elevation gain (60m!). I worry that if people follow this kind of advice, the region will quickly—if it hasn’t already—become a real 4x4 circuit! However, if you can afford it financially (the permit for Upper Mustang costs at least $500), I’d recommend a trek in Upper Mustang lasting about ten days. You enter at Kagbeni and return via Muktinath. But in that case, an agency and a guide are mandatory. In my opinion, it’s one of the most spectacular treks in Nepal. When I did it, I came across people—probably tired—who, as part of a group, were doing parts of the trek on horseback. This forces you to leave the alternative paths where horses can’t go and take the motorable track (built by the Chinese), where you now have to deal with quite a few Jeeps! Still, it’s better on horseback than in a Jeep, right?

You had a beautiful journey, but you shouldn’t have climbed too quickly because the altitude at Muktinath is 3,800m after all.

Indeed, it’s not a trek, but the route has the advantage of helping you manage your efforts and energy well. Kagbeni isn’t yet at an altitude likely to cause AMS. So, don’t ascend too quickly toward Muktinath.

Otherwise, for a real trek, I’d go for the Mardi Himal—it’s less crowded.

Another rather interesting trek idea, provided you avoid the motorable road (which has existed for about twenty years now) and take the alternative paths (on the left bank of the Kali Gandaki). These are the paths we used to take back in the day when we did the full Annapurna Circuit from Jomsom to Pokhara entirely on foot.

Fly from Pokhara to Jomsom. On the same day of your arrival, head to Kagbeni (on foot, not by jeep)! 🤪 It takes about 2 to 2.5 hours of relaxed walking to reach Kagbeni. Stay overnight and explore the village. The next day, hike up to Muktinath, visit the temple at the edge of town (a sacred Hindu site), and the surrounding villages (Jarkhot, Ranipauwa, etc.). The day after, descend directly to Lupra and Jomsom. Then, make your way back at your own pace from Jomsom to Marha and Tatopani (on the left bank of the Kali Gandaki). Return by bus from Tatopani to Beni, then to Pokhara.

Jomsom - Kagbeni: on foot—why not? I’d suggested the jeep to save energy for exploring as many Tibetan villages as possible near Kagbeni, Muktinah, and of course, with the flexibility to visit others. The area is totally customizable... (without limiting yourself to the section that’s part of the Annapurna trek).

When I did it, I met people who were probably tired and, as part of a group, were doing parts of the trek on horseback. This forces you to leave the alternative trails where horses can't go and take the motorable track (built by the Chinese), where you have to pass quite a few jeeps these days! Still, it's better on horseback than in a jeep, right?

When I did this trek a few years ago, I had to rent a horse for the last two days because I had health issues. Nothing to do with AMS, though—I was just really sick. The horse didn’t take the motorable track but stayed on the trekking path along the left bank from Yara to Tetang. It didn’t stop me from enjoying the incredible landscapes...

@Ap18 Back to the original topic, this isn’t a difficult trek despite a few short steep sections here and there. Otherwise, as suggested, there’s the option to do shorter treks starting from Jomsom. Lower Mustang is a beautiful region, though fairly unknown since most people doing the Annapurna Circuit stop at Muktinath and take a bus to Jomsom. It’s a shame because the area is fascinating, with many monasteries (Jhong, Kagbeni, etc.), and the trail through Lupra is stunning. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to avoid the awful dusty road at the end of the route. My lungs still remember it! I have lovely memories of Marpha too.

Thanks for your reply, I’m looking into all of this, A.P

Marfa: indeed, this village is worth it—as long as you don’t "hit" it during peak tourist season. Yes, an amazing region! But will it stay that way once the road from China is finished?

It’s been a long time since it ended! Back in 2014, it was already finished up to the Tibetan border north of Lo Manthang… but you’d still see very few jeeps. Since "trekking" can now be done in off-road vehicles, I can only imagine the noise and the amount of dust on the way through Upper Mustang!

Yes, I didn’t express myself clearly. The existing trail was being widened (until around 2020?), certainly for Chinese trucks—full of Chinese goods heading to Pokhara. I found it quite sad that the elders from Marfa, who didn’t go to Kathmandu for warmth in the winter, were happy about it: the increased traffic brought them extra financial interest.

Trails, jeeps... fewer horses (the preferred way to get around in the past). That’s progress, I guess.

Hello Sir, Mardi Himal could be another option, but the altitude goes up to 4,500m for the Mardi Base Camp. Thanks.

Mardi Himal, less crowded

When I did this Mardi Himal BC trek in a quick 30/11-02/12 2017 (so off-season and not on a weekend), it was quite busy, mostly with young Nepalis. More crowded than the Khopra Danda trek I’d done from 23 to 27/11. But obviously nothing like the ABC trek, which I did between Khopra Danda and Mardi Himal BC and was totally packed.

Fabrice

it’s impossible to avoid the awful dusty road at the end of the route

Oh, it is! Possible via the left bank of the Kali Gandaki. With some beautiful spots, including: - the village of Chimang (still in its almost medieval state as of November 2017), - the Titigaon area and its lake, with a great view of the east face of Dhaulagiri and its icefall glacier, - the section where the Kali Gandaki is squeezed between Konjo and Ghasa (the trail descends almost to river level).

You can continue all the way to Narchyang Besi, where you can reach Narchyang Lek (a large traditional village), a possible access point to Khopra Danda (a long day’s climb off the beaten path—I only ran into one lumberjack there).

Fabrice