15-day itinerary from Bangkok to the southern classics

Hi there,

The round trip to Bangkok is almost booked.

Here’s the itinerary I’ve planned for this new trip to Thailand:

Arrival – 2 nights in Bangkok (any hotel recommendations? Very quiet, near Chinatown or by the river)

Train or taxi (which app should I use for Thailand?) to Phetchaburi – 2 nights (any hotel recommendations?)

Daytime train to Surat Thani – 1 night there (any hotel recommendations?)

Pick up the rental car and head to Khao Sok – 1 night there (any hotel recommendations?)

Drive to Ko Kho Khao – 3 nights – relaxation (any hotel recommendations?)

Drive to Phang Nga Bay – 1 night (any base recommendations?)

Excursion in the bay, then drive to Krabi – 2 nights (any hotel recommendations) or any other spot with beautiful, quiet beaches that you might know?

Return to Surat Thani – overnight train to Bangkok, then Ayutthaya (any hotel recommendations?)

Visit the site and transfer to the airport – sniff, time to head back!

If you have other suggestions, keeping in mind the trip’s vibe: beach time without crowds or entertainment, a bit of nature, a bit of culture, no stress... No domestic flights and charming accommodations (not at 150 € per night, even though the budget is reasonable!)

Not sure I’ll follow them all, but all your ideas are welcome! 😉

Thanks. 🙂

hi there, that’s a lot of driving, so you’ll have less time to enjoy the places mentioned. Renting from Surat Thani for the round trip—have you ever driven in Thailand before? What are your plans for the day and a half in Phetchaburi? Ayutthaya with luggage? Arriving at Khao Sok in the afternoon… activities take place in the morning, so you’ll lose a day from your schedule the next day. A bit ambitious, don’t you think?

Hi there, Your itinerary is way too packed for 15 days—you’ll just be rushing around and won’t really get to enjoy it.

Surat Thani car rental round trip?

Yes.

Have you ever driven in Thailand?

No. But I’ve driven a bit all over different continents.

And it’s not my first trip to Thailand. 😉

I deliberately chose not to rent a car starting from Bangkok. A bit too ambitious.

What are you planning to do during 1.5 days in Phetchaburi?

This, for example.

It’ll only take a day. Arriving in the late afternoon, leaving the next morning.

It seemed like a good stopover between Bangkok and Surat Thani. (Plus, I haven’t been there before.) I don’t want to take the sleeper train twice, so I’ll take a daytime train.

Any other possible stopover suggestions?

Ayutthaya with luggage?

No. One night there. Arriving around noon, leaving the next evening.

Khao Sok arrival in the afternoon... activities take place in the morning...

I’m not really into group activities. I’m just thinking of doing a short hike. It’s 105 kilometers, so I’ll arrive around noon.

If the park is really tempting, why not add an extra night, then?

In that case, Krabi’s out (I’ve already been there, and Railay was a great memory. Off-season...).

That’s a lot of driving

Barely 600 kilometers??? 😮 In 5 stages.

Same here. 600 kilometers too packed???

I love the road, seeing landscapes, observing what’s happening outside.

A temple, the beach, a walk on foot...

Definitely not the elephant park, the buggy line, jet skis, etc.

I feel the same way—being on the road is part of the journey. It takes on a whole different meaning than just moving from one place to another.

People here often tell me my itineraries are too packed, that there’s too much time spent traveling, that I should take it easy, etc. But I *do* take it easy—on the road ;)

And it’s all relative… while others plan to “do” 4 countries in 8 days!

At the same time, a thousand questions all at once—like asking for hotel recommendations without much detail, while saying you may or may not take the advice—makes you want to respond... or not.

It’s obvious this itinerary is completely unbalanced, with too many stops or stops that are too short. Of course, if "the journey matters more than the destination," then it makes more sense. There’s plenty of that here, with average speeds of 30 km/h on some trains and 60 km/h on buses. Too bad about not taking flights, especially for trips under three weeks. That said, it could be a phobia or a bad experience, but we assume the person didn’t arrive in Thailand by boat.

For hotels, what can you really ask random people whose tastes might be totally different, when for over ten years you’ve been able to find everything online? I say this because the hotels or guesthouses that are trendy on forums often didn’t suit me at all, for example.

But time, I take it, on the road ;)

That’s exactly it! :)

requests for hotel advice with too few details,

Too many details can sometimes kill the search. 😉

It says quiet, charming, and that the budget isn’t unlimited (which also means I’m not looking for a 10-euro guesthouse...). And when the person answering is curious, they check the profile of the one asking the question and see there’s a travel journal about Thailand. They read it and that way, they know what kind of traveler they’re dealing with...

I like very open-ended requests. I sort through them afterward. (Same for the rest.)

Otherwise, you might miss out on something just because it didn’t fit a request that was too specific...

But I get you—I also like closed-ended requests when I’m the one answering. 😛

There’s plenty to choose from, with averages of 30 km/h for some trains and 60 km/h for buses.

Well, yeah. That makes sense. It’s like all my previous trips to Thailand. (I lean more toward trains and taxis than buses. You don’t see anything from a bus, and you’re too cramped in there.)

Still a shame not to take the plane,

Planes waste just as much time. Between getting to the airport, leaving it, checking in, waiting for luggage, the flight itself, delays...

After a while as a traveler, you avoid them as much as possible—except for long-haul flights!

too many stops or stops that are too short

You’re saying too much or not enough...

can you find everything that exists on the internet?

Maybe too much... A few opinions here could highlight something special.

by saying whether you’ll take it into account or not, it makes people want to respond... or not.

That’s my straightforward side.

(Or responding without really responding while still responding...🙂)

About your hotel in Bangkok… This forum’s pretty dead—it’s old. Unless you happen to find someone who’s been there recently. But given how slow the rebound is…😕 For me, accommodation is super important. I search on Booking with all my filters, read the reviews, cross-check with the *Routard* or TripAdvisor, and look at blogs with recent info… I’m rarely disappointed.

As for trains in Bangkok, I bought my tickets at the station on the day of departure (overnight train to Chiang Mai). Otherwise, for any trips—whether by car, plane, or train—I check Rome2Rio. For nice beaches, back then I was advised to go to Koh Lanta instead of Krabi, but that means an extra boat ride.

I’m sharing all this because you said “all ideas welcome,” but you travel way more than I do, and I’m sure you already know everything I just wrote. I’m only better when it comes to luggage 😛

including requests for hotel advice without much detail, mentioning that we may or may not take them into account

A bit of an "Agnesery" (or an "Attilaery" but that doesn’t sound as good 😉)

OK, I understand your points.

I’ve always preferred Agoda over Booking. I select the city and get a whole bunch of options, with or without breakfast. What’s handy is refining the search (downtown or not, pool or not), and it opens up choices that are better suited. That way, YOU get to pick based on the photos and reviews from people who’ve actually tried these places. I won’t recommend specific hotels because as soon as the stay is over a year old, everything can change drastically. Over the last 10 years, the offer across Thailand has grown considerably.

You can take a look at my 2015 travel journal for Khao Sok. I had 3 days for 2 nights. The highlight is a longtail boat ride on the lake by the dam (a must, especially early in the morning). Besides that, there’s an easy trek you can do solo and other treks that require rangers. I’m keeping my fingers crossed for you in this region, which is said to be the rainiest in Thailand.

Yeah, it's true that for now, it's not super lively... It was lively, though, in the Thailand section. Sometimes too much, actually...

For the overnight train, I’ll need to book in advance because we want a first-class sleeper with the compartment to ourselves. Apparently, they fill up fast.

For taxis, I saw the Grab app, but if I understood correctly, it’s only on iPhone, and I don’t have one. Gotta look into that!

If I add Lanta to my itinerary, Joël’s gonna strangle me...

All ideas are definitely welcome. 🙂 If it doesn’t help me, it might help others, and plus, it brings some life to the forum (so maybe a little more activity!)😛

(For luggage, you’re cheating—you don’t have any!😠😉)

everything may have changed drastically.

I really get the feeling that, accommodation-wise, there have been big changes in Thailand. More resorts at the expense of small bungalows right on the sand... And prices have gone up!

That said, I’m traveling in high season this time, whereas I usually went in April-May.

You can take a look at my 2015 travel journal for Khao Sok. I had 3 days for 2 nights. The highlight is a long-tail boat ride on the lake by the dam (a must, especially early in the morning). Also, there’s an easy trek you can do solo, and other treks that require rangers. Fingers crossed for this region—it’s supposed to be the rainiest in Thailand.

After reading your journal, I’m torn about adding an extra night. I’m worried the places might feel a bit overrun by mass tourism... I’ll note that the lake is accessible by car!

For the weather, we’ll be there in March. That should limit the damage.

Okay, to outline the trip a bit, here are the fixed elements:

Bangkok, which my partner hasn’t been to

Ayutthaya because I really liked it and it’s perfect for catching a long-haul flight the next day.

Some relaxation on Ko Kho Khao, where I’ve never been and which still seems to have small hotels.

Phang Nga Bay

The overnight sleeper train

Car rental

For the rest...

We once did a trip with 2 nights on Koh Tao and 2 nights on Koh Phangan. At the time, it was nice, but afterward, I felt a bit silly because it was really just scratching the surface.

For taxis, depending on the area, there’s Grab or Bolt, which are even cheaper. For trips outside the city, especially long-distance ones, it’s best to discuss a flat rate with taxi drivers or your hotel. Always better without a middleman. It’s a good option as long as you negotiate well. Like someone mentioned recently, depending on where you are, you can pay as little as 1,500 baht for 200 km. Of course, if you're out in the middle of nowhere with no competition, the price can easily double.

For beautiful beaches, back in the day I was advised to go to Koh Lanta rather than Krabi, but that means an extra boat trip.

I’d recommend even further south. Koh Muk, Koh Libong, and Koh Lipe, with one or two nights on Tarutao, the Robinson Crusoe island. Back in 2017, Koh Muk was one of the few still spared from mass tourism. You’ll find a luxury hotel and a few small hotels with pools, plus, of course, modest bungalows. A great restaurant: Hilltop Restaurant! Bike and kayak rentals (to visit the "Emerald Cave" before the tourists arrive around 9 AM) and also to picnic alone on small secluded coves. A few hikes on steep trails... Koh Lipe was great, especially for diving and snorkeling (boat trips) or the Sunset Beach. Is it too crowded now? Tarutao: https://aurorevoyage.com/2018/01/14/thailande-pourquoi-se-rendre-a-koh-tarutao/ No luxury accommodations there, and only one restaurant!

I read reviews, cross-check info with Le Routard or TripAdvisor, and consult blogs with recent updates... And I’m rarely disappointed.

I followed your advice for Jimbaran (Bali) and wasn’t disappointed either!

I really liked Koh Phangan, liked Koh Tao a bit less, and liked Koh Samui much less. It worked out well, since I ended up staying the longest on Koh Phangan!

Back to hotels—unfortunately, I think an essential filter is missing for me: silence! And charm too. I don’t care about stars, the gym, the sauna, or the pool (especially when it’s by the sea for that last one...). But I *would* like to know if I’ll hear snoring from the next room, the boom-boom of a nightclub or partying youngsters, or the shouts of inconsiderate travelers...🤪

You have to dig through the reviews to figure it out.

Phetchaburi: only the Astronomer King’s Temple on the outskirts of town… transportation?... Otherwise, the bamboo market on weekends—really interesting, but only on weekends, 40 km away—and Monkey Island at the dam (the second-largest in the kingdom, also 40 km away), so you’ll need a van or taxi with a driver. The town itself has uninteresting main roads and shuts down by 6:30 PM.

Khao Sok: what’s actually interesting is the Rachaprapha Lake with morning activities (boat trips, wildlife spotting, kayaking, floating bungalows). Khao Sok itself is a small village turned tourist trap with four treehouse hotels and a bit of nightlife… The two are connected by regular vans and buses, 60 km apart.

Phang Nga and its 500 km of coastline and 300 islands: how can I recommend just one night????

I’ll say it again: this plan is too scattered. Good luck!

You have to sift through the comments to sort them out.

Yep! Like you, once I’ve found a good price and it looks charming, I check the location, cleanliness, and how quiet it is. But watch out for fake reviews too. When 10 Thais give it an "EXCEPTIONAL" rating and a French traveler (or someone who’s not a local) says to run for the hills, I tend to take that into account ;)

Ayutthaya was flooded when we tried to go there :/

phetchaburi:

Some online posts seem overly enthusiastic about this city. My paper guide is too.

Worth seeing in person!

khao sok:

I’m noting not to stay in Khao Sok Village! I’m considering a second night. Still, I’m worried it might feel a bit too touristy for my taste.

phang nga and its 500km of coastline and 300 islands: how can you recommend just 1 night????

I’m looking for something classic. A starting point to organize a boat trip for a few hours. What’s available from Phuket but on a smaller, more low-key scale—less partying, alcohol, and selfies... A boat with just a few passengers.

Plus some viewpoints accessible by car from my previous stop.

If Khao Sok wins me over for 2 nights, Krabi gets cut. I could then spend a second night in the bay.

But watch out for fakes too

Yeah, there are more and more of them.

When everyone gives the max rating, it’s suspicious—and anything below 8 too...

I don’t know if it wasn’t simpler before the internet... Well, there were a lot fewer hotels too...

I’ve booked the flight ticket. I’m starting to look for what’s safe, the hotel for the first few nights in Bangkok!

I think I’m going to skip the riverside since prices have skyrocketed in Bangkok.

For Ayutthaya, I went there about twenty years ago. It was really great. Back then, long-haul flights landed at Don Mueang, and the railway line went through both. So convenient!

Hello,

Hotel tip for BKK: Theatre Residence, in a non-touristy neighborhood, easy access to the express boat, and the metro isn’t too far away. Take a look!

Hi,

Thanks for your tip! 🙂 I checked it out—it’s above my budget range.

Alright, the flight is booked, and the 2 nights in Bangkok are reserved.

The start of the itinerary has finally been changed.

Here’s the new version:

Bangkok – 2 nights

Day train to Pran Buri – Transfer to Khao Sam Roi Yot. 2 nights exploring the park with a scooter rental.

Day train to Surat Thani, pick up the rental vehicle, night in Surat Thani

Early morning drive to Khao Sok. Lake walk – night near the dam

Drive to Khao Sok village – short unguided hike – drive to the 3 nights in northern Khao Lak.

Drive to Phang Nga – land viewpoints. Night near a boat excursion departure point

Morning: boat excursion, then drive to Ao Nang. 2 nights

Return to Surat Thani, drop off the vehicle, overnight train to Bangkok

Transfer to Ayutthaya – night

And that’s it… it’s over!

My current question: Are there any hikes possible near the lake in Khao Sok (without a guide)?

What are the current rates for a boat tour (Phang Nga and Khao Sok)?

Thanks! :)

There’s a general misunderstanding about the geography of Khao Sok and the surrounding area. 1/ Khao Sok is a national park in the forest with a tourist village and hotels/bungalows in the trees. 2/ 50 km away is Cheow Larn Lake (regular transfers), where the activities take place. Arrival at the pier: nothing to do except board for the tours bought from agencies. So no hiking—plan for at least 1 night/1 day of discovery activities.

This lets me see that I wasn’t very precise. In my previous reply, after talking about the boat ride on the lake, I jumped straight to the treks in the national park without reminding you that they’re absolutely not in the same place. That’s why I opted for 3 nights back then.

Search online for something like “Khao Sok boat ride price” and you’ll get an idea. Around 2,000 baht. Be careful—if you go through certain providers, you can easily end up paying double or triple that. Also keep in mind the park entrance fee, which should be around 300 baht.

My current question: Are there any hikes possible near the lake at Khao Sok (without a guide)?

From what I gather, the only possible walks are along the Khao Sok River starting from the park entrance... more or less long out-and-back routes. A bit longer for the loop hikes. https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/discover/Lieu_s%C3%A9lectionn%C3%A9_sur_la_carte/@8.8949432,98.5374604/tours?sport=hike&map=true

Otherwise, near Cheo Lan Lake, I found one on alltrails.com, but a guide is mandatory.

There’s a general misunderstanding about the geography of Khao Sok and the surrounding area.

Nope. I actually found a map of the park online. I think I just didn’t explain myself well, and you misunderstood what I meant.

50 km away is Cheow Larn Lake (regular transfers), where the activities take place. Arrival at the pier: nothing to do, just board for the tours bought from agencies. So no hiking.

That’s exactly where I’ll be staying (tons of options at all price points). And my goal is to rent a boat for a lake tour without spending the night in the floating bungalows. I read there are several programs available, from 2 hours to almost a full day. The small boat fits 10 people crammed in—4 is much more comfortable... Just missing the current price (for the boat—I know it’s then split based on the number of clients).

Thanks for answering my question about hikes from that spot. (Most hikes advertised on websites do start from the other side, but some travelers also mention hikes in the lake area.)

In the forest with a tourist village and hotels/bungalows in the trees.

Yep, I’ll avoid sleeping there, which is why I chose the lake area for the night.

I’ll stop by on day 2 for the hike since there aren’t any in the lake area.

That way, it flows nicely! 😛

Route: Surat Thani departure → lake boat → sleep by the lake → road → hike in the forest near the village (the one possible without a guide) → road → sleep at the beach.

I got what you meant the first time. 😉

2000 baht, which is 54 €.

I hope to find 2 other people there, otherwise, too bad.

Also think about the park entrance fees, which must be around 300 baht

Apparently, it's valid for 24 hours. We should take the boat ride around 2 PM so the ticket is still valid for the hike the next day. But the lake is quieter in the morning if I understood correctly... Less risk of fog too, apparently...

(Most of the hikes suggested on websites actually start from the other side, but some travelers also mention hikes in the lake area)

There’s one (and maybe others) that actually starts from a spot on the lake. I read that a guide is mandatory. In my opinion, the trip begins with a boat ride to the starting point of the "hike." https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/discover/Khao_Sok_%3A_%3A_Randonn%C3%A9e_dans_la_jungle_de_Cheow_Lan/@8.9813040,98.6017460/tours?sport=hike&map=true&toursThroughHighlight=374423

If you leave as early as possible, you can be the only boat on the lake. It's less noisy and you get to enjoy it more.

Given the temperatures, the mist is the nighttime dew rising. Since this region is very rainy, you need to be lucky for the conditions to be optimal.

About the entrance ticket, I doubt you can count on the full 24 hours. When a new day starts and you want to enter, they usually charge you. You’ll have to check on-site. That said, if someone spent the night in the national park, it’s a different story.

"Annual rainfall is 3187mm, with a minimum of 64mm in February and a maximum of 409mm in July"

Yeah, that’s pretty wet! !🤪

Luckily, I’m heading there in February rather than July.

It's a season I systematically avoid because many waterfalls are low on water. On the other hand, for Cheow Larn Lake, there’s indeed one that might be stunning...

Hello, from what I remember—it’s been a good ten years now—the boat tours on the lake are run by a cooperative. They wait until the boat is more or less full (we left with 5 or 6 people), and it was really great!!

Anyway, it might be "the same but different" these days…

Hi,

Thanks for your tip! 🙂 I checked it out. It’s above my price range.

…cheaper, also in a non-touristy neighborhood: Casa 17.

Every season has its pros and cons... After several pretty rainy spring trips, I’m going for blue skies!😛

I’ll post an update with the latest prices 😉

Thanks for the Bangkok recommendations, but we’ve already picked our hotel.🙂

Hi, from what I remember—going back a good ten years or so—boat tours on the lake were run by a cooperative. They’d wait until the boat was more or less full (we left with 5 or 6 people), and it was really great!!

Okay, it might be “the same but different” these days...

Hi,

Around the same time, we’d booked through a friendly restaurant owner in Khao Sok who knew someone. She totally understood what we were after.

A minivan picked us up early in the morning, took us to the boat, and left us in the hands of the young guy who took us out—just the two of us. A little romance now and then, please 😉

I wrote in my travel journal that on the way back from our long ride (over 2 hours), it wasn’t until the very end of the return trip that we ran into all the other boats carrying tourist groups.

Yeah, it's definitely not super lively right now...

You two—Kate and you—are cracking me up! Feels like you're everywhere, and it's just the two of you... and Joël 😉 I'm also planning a trip to Thailand... but I'm not getting many responses. Maybe I didn’t ask my questions right?

It was pretty active, though, the Thailand section.

The India forum was lively too

There's definitely something going on between Kate and me—like late mutual respect or a budding friendship. Pure happiness!

There’s definitely something going on between Kate and me—like late-blooming respect or a budding friendship. Pure happiness!

Oh, really? I’d read it the same way, but with Agnès (Attila)

If my wife reads this, I'm done for.

If my wife reads this, I’m done for.

😏😏😏 Not enough emojis here to express how hilarious this is! It’s 9:40 PM here, I’m heading to bed. I get up at 5 AM to start walking at 6 every morning. Good night to the three of you

There’s definitely something going on between Kate and me—like late mutual respect or a budding friendship. Pure joy!

New forum, new friends, I’ve forgotten everything since the pandemic 😛

We feel like we see you everywhere

We're giving it our all to get things moving again! 😛

But there hasn't been much response yet...

You should bump your post every now and then with a new message. 😉

And we should wake up the ghosts lurking in this section...

Feels like we’re seeing you everywhere

We’re really giving it our all to get things moving again! 😛

But there’s not much movement on the replies yet...

You’ve gotta bump your post every now and then with a new message. 😉

And we should wake up the ghosts lurking in this section...

Super nice reply. Thanks Agnès

New forum, new friends, I’ve forgotten everything since the pandemic 😛

Must be the vax effect.

Jojo you're such a tease 😛

Between fellow travelers from Hérault, we can definitely allow ourselves this. And besides, it's better to tease friends than strangers!