A "relaxed" 16-day tour of Corsica in autumn 2024

CORSICA From September 24, 2024 to October 9, 2024 Thank you, thank you, thank you for reactivating my favorite forum, which has given me so many ideas for my trips since... 2008—it’s been ages, as they say! So, to celebrate its return, I’m sharing this little travel journal from our latest road trip, not too long ago, since it was Corsica in the autumn. Autumn is the ideal season to visit Corsica: fewer tourists, perfect temperatures around 25°C, and, most importantly, less stress on the roads. You can feel it everywhere. Servers and shopkeepers are more relaxed and have time to chat (yes, Corsicans do talk... but not all of them!)

09/24 Arrival in Erbalunga Whether you're from northern France or Belgium, like us, the easiest way to reach the Isle of Beauty is by flying from Lille-Lesquin Airport. Volotea offers two destinations: Bastia and Ajaccio. Be careful, though—while the ticket prices are attractive, the airline makes up for it with baggage fees. A 25kg suitcase for 212 €—that really drives up the cost of transportation! For us, it’ll be Bastia. After this short flight and an arrival that lets you clearly see the east coast of Cap Corse, we’re welcomed by our friend Jean-Claude, who’s kindly hosting us for a few days. We met this Corsican and his wife during our four-year stay in French Guiana, and I have to say, he completely changed my opinion of Corsicans and even made me want to visit his island. The house, clinging to the rock above the sea, is stunning and offers a breathtaking view of the island of Elba. I’d always heard of Elba but must admit I wouldn’t have known where to place it before. We’ll stay here for five nights, long enough to explore the north of the island.



Since we’ve just arrived, Jean-Claude wants to show us his village, ERLALUNGA, a quiet little port, and the small village of CASTELLO above it, where he spent a lot of time in his childhood...

In NONZA, after crossing the village, it’s customary to take the little path up to the Genoese tower to enjoy the lovely views of the surroundings, including the black-sand beach...

Same beach a few years earlier 🙂



And the sea erases on the sand... memories and regrets too.

09/25 Around Cap Corse Today marks the real start of our island exploration. After following the sea along the eastern side of the cape from ERBALUNGA, we reach the peaceful village of MACINAGGIO, perfect for a coffee break by the harbor. The sea is like glass.



Here, the road splits to cross the cape toward the west. Before starting the descent to CENTURI, we stop at the MATTEI mill, a highly touristy yet strategic spot. The trail to the mill isn’t well marked. We see tons of people scrambling up the hill in all directions, and like sheep, we follow suit...



We later realize during the descent that the nicest way to reach the top is to take the road leading to the parking lot and ignore the chain blocking the entrance—it’s only there to stop cars from driving up.



Metal plaques explaining the region’s history are installed along this path.



The mill is beautiful, the sky is clear, and the sea is blue. The view from up there is stunning.





CENTURI: What an adorable little port!



Jean-Claude warned us: This is the place to enjoy lobster! Sure enough, every restaurant offers it, but according to our friend, the best one is the one all the way to the right when you arrive...



At any rate, this restaurant has a 50 € menu with lobster appetizer and dessert, which is pretty attractive when you know how much the critter usually costs!





We continue along the western side of the cape, still treated to breathtaking views of the azure sea...

To be continued...

(continued)

Next stop in NONZA. Jean-Claude drew our attention to the church’s unique feature. So, did you spot it?



Apparently, it’s the only church in Corsica (and maybe the world?) where the crucified Christ is replaced by a representation of Saint Giulia on the cross...



In NONZA, after crossing the village, it’s customary to take the little path up to the Genoese tower...







...to enjoy the pretty views of the surroundings, including the black sand beach—well, more like gray.





Here’s what Prosper Mérimée, director of France’s historical monuments in 1839, said about these towers: « The Corsican coastline was defended by towers whose construction dates back no further than the 14th century. These were built at the expense of the inhabitants, who taxed themselves extra to protect their coastline from incursions by Barbary pirates. There were 85 of these towers at the start of the 18th century. » Today, 84 towers remain around Corsica. Back then, they were used to light a large fire at the top so it could be seen and relayed by all the towers on the island as soon as the enemy was in sight.



To be continued...

Continuing the travel journal:

26/09 Saint-Florent, L'Île-Rousse, Calvi, Saint-Antonino

Our second day exploring Haute-Corse takes us to Balagne today, starting with a visit to SAINT-FLORENT, a charming and peaceful port that welcomes many boaters. You can tell it's a more touristy spot than Cap Corse because there are plenty of shops—and I’m not complaining!



Doesn’t it feel like Greece?



I especially love wandering through the old, narrow, and shady streets...



To reach L'Île-Rousse, we cross the Désert des Agriates. It’s a stunning road through wild, arid landscapes—so beautiful!



Then we reach the coastline with a sea that’s *insanely* blue!

L'ÎLE-ROUSSE is just as charming, and what surprises me is that at the end of a village square with large terraces shaded by plane trees, there’s a gorgeous beach—right in the center!





Here, the water is lagoon-blue, just like in photos—but even better!





A narrow little street... and shady too!



To be continued...

To be continued...

Here we are, arrived in CALVI

CALVI is one of the gems of the Upper Corsica coastline, with its lovely citadel and narrow little streets.



We stop for lunch: a good pizza by the harbor, facing the boats. If there's one thing you shouldn't miss in Calvi, it's the climb up to the citadel.



The dizzying stairs must have put off more than a few people!



We tell ourselves it’s probably good for digestion! Luckily, it’s not too hot.





The statue of Christopher Columbus at the entrance seems to suggest he was born here. A moment of doubt...



Didn’t I see Columbus’s birthplace in Genoa? It’s true that Corsica was Genoese, but claiming the famous navigator was born here... Come on, Google probably knows the answer... Let’s stop at this charming little terrace in front of the cathedral for a refreshment.



The little spot A SCOLA offers artisanal ice cream, fruit juices, and homemade iced tea. A great place. The view from the citadel lets you take in the whole town and the harbor.



Back down to the old lower town and its charming shopping streets.



The stalls of Corsican specialties are everywhere here. The wild boar heads remind us they’re all over the place.



They’re even a real nuisance in some areas. Our friend Jean-Claude had to build a wall around his property to protect himself from them. Calvi, along with Bonifacio, is one of the places we loved the most during our stay.

To be continued...

Next

SANT'ANTONINO Before heading back to ERBALUNGA, our friend Jean-Claude suggested we take a detour to SANT'ANTONINO, a small village perched above Balagne. It appears around a bend...



Lucky for us, there’s almost no one here. There aren’t many signs either... More steps—everything here is earned by climbing!





We go up, down, up again, and end up in a few dead ends. As mentioned earlier, there are no signs except this one:





Finally, we reach the top, where there’s an orientation table, and discover the full panorama.







To go back down, same struggle—we’re not quite sure where to go, but we manage. This village is a real maze!



On the road again...



All in all, it was a beautiful and fulfilling day. Balagne is a stunning part of Corsica—an absolute must when visiting the island.

(To be continued...)

09/27/2024 Visit to Corte

Today, we planned to head into the mountains, right in the heart of the island, to visit CORTE, the historic and cultural capital of Corsica.



This city was chosen by Pascal Paoli as the capital of independent Corsica (between 1755 and 1769).



Its citadel has housed the Museum of Corsica since 1997. The city is also home to the University of Corsica Pascal Paoli, which reopened in 1981 and welcomes around 4,000 students—pretty impressive for a town of just 8,000 people! We park the car at the foot of the citadel, and as we arrive at the museum square, the little tourist train is about to leave. Jean-Claude told us it’s a great way to explore the city, so let’s go!



During the ride, the train passes by statues of all the city’s notable figures, as well as charming narrow streets.



This gives us a chance to spot a nice restaurant terrace where we’ll come back later.



After the tour, we decide to head to the restaurant with that famous terrace at the entrance of the citadel—Restaurant U MUSEU. Great choice! The menu is solid, and the food is excellent. The terrace is lovely. For 25 €, we feast on veal carpaccio with myrtle wine, wild boar stew for Patrick, and brocciu cannelloni for me, followed by chestnut Bavarian cream and a brocciu cheesecake with lemon zest—amazing desserts, much lighter than they sound! Afterward, we take a digestive stroll through the city’s little streets...









The facades of the old apartment buildings, where families were relocated during the citadel’s expansion, aren’t very pretty. But the shutters and laundry drying in the streets give the city an Italian vibe...



(To be continued...)

Corte (continued) Here we are now at the gates of the museum and the citadel. We decide to visit the latter first.



We’re above the town, and the wind is really blowing hard!





One section, the "eagle’s nest," isn’t open for visits due to construction work.



From up here, the view of the town shows just how small it is...



Next, we visit the Museum of Corsica, whose walls are beautifully decorated with drawings depicting subjects tied to the island’s history and traditions.



The flag with the Moor’s head takes center stage. That makes sense, since it was Paoli—the iconic figure of Corte—who made it the national symbol when he declared Corsica independent.



But where does this Moor’s head come from? Accounts vary, some more romanticized than others, but it’s said to be the head of a Saracen decapitated during a battle between the Corsicans and invaders. Back then, Corsicans used to place their enemies’ heads on pikes to scare off attackers and deter them from invading the island. The room with the penitents’ costumes is striking!



On the way back, we stop in the small village of Castello-di-Rostino, where you’ll find the imaginary village of *Carriolu* and a broken Genoese bridge...





(To be continued...)

28/09/2025 Bastia For our last day in Erbalunga, we’re having lunch by the port in Bastia, the capital of Upper Corsica, then wandering through the city and the citadel. Yep, there are citadels all over Corsica because this island had to defend itself from attacks coming from all over the Mediterranean.

Old Port:



Pedestrian street



Bastia has so many churches, each more beautiful than the last, with stunning painted ceilings. Jean-Claude and I went into almost all of them. I don’t remember the names of all the churches, but in the first one, the Oratory of the Confraternity of Saint-Roch (17th century), below, three men were singing sacred Corsican polyphonic chants:





The Church of Saint John the Baptist, in Corsican *San Ghjuvanni* or *San Ghjuvà*:







Entrance to the port of Bastia



To get up to the citadel here is a breeze—there’s a free elevator!



A narrow little street in the citadel:



Bastia is a city with a lot of charm. It’s modernized while keeping its defensive character. Its port is especially pretty. Looking back, we preferred the capital of Upper Corsica to that of Southern Corsica. (To be continued...)

Great write-up and beautiful photos! I only did the Erbalunga-Centuri-Calvi-Corte-Bastia loop. Will there be a follow-up? Greetings from Prunelli-di-Fium'Orbu.

Yes, of course. I only started the travel journal 2 days ago, and the photo upload time on this site is really long!

(Continued)

09/29 D84 and the Vergio Pass

Today we leave the lovely house in ERBALUNGA with beautiful sunshine, just like all these past days. Jean-Claude drives us to the airport to pick up our rental car. Off we go! Our goal for today is to reach PORTO, a pretty village on the west coast, and to get there, we’re taking the most beautiful road of our entire trip—the D84. For those who don’t like heights and tight turns, steer clear!

At first, the road is the same as the one from Bastia to Corte, but just before reaching it, we turn right. Shortly after, the road enters the mountains and winds into the Ruda canyon. It gets narrow and pretty impressive in places—I love it!



We stop for lunch in Calacuccia, specifically at the farm inn U Fucaghjolu. We park our car in the municipal parking lot where there’s already... a cow parked!



While the name of the place (a Corsican farm inn) suggests we’re "in the right place," the dining room is quite chilly, and the dishes won’t leave us with unforgettable memories—unlike the steep bill! But what can you do? There’s not much competition on this road! We continue our journey through a magnificent pine forest.



Then comes the Vergio Pass. It’s here that the highest authorities decided the border between Upper Corsica and Lower Corsica... oops, sorry, South Corsica and North Corsica... Uh... Upper Corsica, you know! At 1,477 meters, the Vergio Pass is the highest road pass on the island. As someone who loves animals in the wild, I’m in heaven: there’s a donkey and cows right near the Christ statue. It’s rustic, it’s beautiful!





The Christ the King statue is draped in a long coat. It can get very cold up here at this altitude.



Further on, we come across pigs on the road (no photo—I wasn’t quick enough), goats, lots of goats, and even more cows... So be careful if you decide to take this road!





Then the road heads toward the coast with stunning landscapes...

(To be continued)

PORTO (...just Porto, not just in Portugal!) Why did we choose to stop in Porto? Because it's the closest place to visit the Calanques of Piana by boat. Indeed, dozens of small boats leave from this little port every day. They even make several trips a day. Most are fast boats like larger Zodiacs.



The calanques are only accessible by sea, as is the small village of Girolata. Guides also offer trips past the Scandola Nature Reserve. You can also reach the Calanques of Piana from other parts of Corsica. Tour operators offer trips from Ajaccio, but it's longer... and if you're like me and don't have sea legs, I wouldn’t recommend it. So, in addition to taking the magnificent and challenging D84 road to get here, we’re rewarded with the beauty of the site: a charming little sheltered port, dominated by its Genoese tower.



Next to the port, on the other side of a pretty footbridge, there’s a large pebble beach. While the cool water isn’t exactly inviting for a swim, the sun is out, making it perfect for some nice photos.



As you can see in the photos, at the end of September, there aren’t many people in this village, which gets overcrowded in the middle of summer. In fact, quite a few terraces are closed. The footbridge connects the two quays...



We decide to have a drink on the terrace of Robinson, a friendly spot where all the boat pilots seem to gather after work. Located opposite the village’s main quay, it offers the best view of the port and its tower!



We booked two nights at the Hôtel Corsica, a bit uphill, surrounded by eucalyptus trees. The hotel is a bit dated, but we’re not too picky. It’s only when comparing it to the hotels we stayed in afterward that we can say it was the least impressive of them all. For our first evening, we opted for a pizza at the restaurant La Marine—meh, let’s move on. However, for our second and last evening in Porto, we chose the restaurant Le Palmier. What can I say about its enchanting terrace, its delicious dishes, and the delightful sense of *joie de vivre* it inspired? Even the cat agrees!









PS: It’s hard to choose photos—we take so many when the weather’s nice and the place is this beautiful!

(Continued)

09/30 The Calanques of PIANA For the visit to the Calanques of PIANA, I chose the company CORSE ADRENALINE. Unlike the other tour operators on site, the small speedboat is rigid, making access easier. Unlike Zodiac-style boats, we didn’t have to step over the big tubes when getting off at Girolata beach. Plus, they offered us a seat at the back, which is better for your back—something not all boats have.



We set off with Jérôme, aka Jéjé, for an adventure where we weren’t bored for a single moment. The trip starts with the calanques, caves, and holes in the mountain... The rock turns scarlet with the sunlight. The boat often enters dead ends, but with the sound of Corsican polyphonies echoing off the rocks, it feels like being in a cathedral! In short, it’s beautiful and it’s... pure happiness!



In this opening, you can definitely recognize the map of Corsica!



After that, it’s splash time for everyone! ...well, only for those who want to. The water isn’t very warm, but there are pretty blue fish!





Next, we cross the bay to the other side—still? Yes, to the Scandola Nature Reserve, where no one is allowed to land since it’s a protected area and mustn’t be damaged. So we only see red rocks...



Then we land on the beach of the small village of Girolata, which is only accessible by sea.



Since there aren’t many people around, we chat with the owner of the local little eatery, a timeless spot where we grab a bite. The pastries are delicious, cheap, and the guy even makes hibiscus juice (bissap or Guinea sorrel) like they do in French Guiana! I highly recommend this bistro, A BASTELLA.



And then it’s the grand return—Jéjé’s show, zigzagging at full speed on the sea, and an offshore boat race back to the port!!





In short, it was fun, entertaining, and the afternoon was really enjoyable!

(To be continued...)

09/01 From PORTO to AJACCIO via PIANA and CARGESE Today is a transition day between PORTO and AJACCIO. The route isn’t very long. Google Maps says 1h53 for 85 km of winding roads... perfect for taking our time!

Our first stop is for the stunning viewpoint over Porto.



We park in the village square up high in PIANA.



There’s no one around.



Hard to believe we were at the foot of the cliffs just below this village yesterday.



We chat with a local who turns out to be the village postman. Who else would know the village so well?



Our next stop is Cargèse. There isn’t much here, nor many people.



The terrace of a gourmet grocery store (Corsican products) that also serves as a restaurant catches our eye. We treat ourselves to a light meal...



An egg mayo, the cheapest thing on the menu, makes me so happy!



Two elderly men sitting next to us start chatting and playfully bickering. Funny anecdote: one of them runs a shop we noticed when we arrived here called "Amazonie." Remember, we spent four years in French Guiana. The shop owner explains that his brother, who started the store, lived in French Guiana for a long time (hence the name). That’s all it takes to spark a friendly conversation... On the winding road, the beautiful beaches roll by...





(to be continued)

What a lovely travel journal!. I recognize everything I love, and you’ve really captured the essence of Corsica. Your photos are stunning. You haven’t distorted anything—in fact, quite the opposite! A quick note about Bastia: what you photographed isn’t the marina but the Vieux Port (Old Port). The marina is actually in the Toga district. As for Rue Napoléon, which you featured, it was built around 1600, so it’s not really a street from the newer part of the city. It’s actually the only pedestrian street in town. I’ll keep reading you with great pleasure.

Thanks for your message—it came at just the right time since I was wondering if it was even worth continuing because my travel journal wasn’t going to interest anyone! 🤪😕😄 Thanks also for your insightful comments. I’ll definitely fix the text.

Hi there,

Of course! It sounds interesting—we’re looking forward to the rest of it.

Thanks

Hello, I’ve been quietly reading your travel journal with so much pleasure, especially since I was lucky enough to live in Corsica for 11 years—until 2022. Best regards, Françoise

(01/0924 Update) AJACCIO and the SANGUINAIRES We’re arriving in Ajaccio at a leisurely pace. Our hotel is located in the suburbs, along the lovely Route des Sanguinaires. This place, "La Pinède," is charming, just like the welcome we received. The terrace is really nice, it has a lovely pool, and best of all, a gate at the bottom of the garden that leads straight to the beach—just cross the road. It’s definitely a great spot.





Since the weather’s nice and we’ve got time, we head off to "taste" the Mediterranean Sea on this delightful little beach.



After that, we hop back in the car to go see the famous sunset over the Sanguinaires Islands. There’s a well-placed terrace there, but the service isn’t super friendly. The only real draw is the view while waiting for the sunset over the silhouette of the rocks.





Besides, this restaurant closes at 7 PM, so we won’t be lingering there.



We’ll later see that we made the right call, since we found an amazing restaurant for dinner that evening!



Indeed, just about 200 meters down the road leading to the beach below the hotel, you’ll find the restaurant "Chez Pech," which has a great reputation. What a find! The welcome is very professional, the service is friendly, and the 35 € menu is perfect! The tuna carpaccio is excellent, the fish soup is hearty, and they leave the tureen on the table for you. They brought out the sea bream for us, which the waitresses then expertly filleted, and the desserts were really good too.





I won’t even get into the view—it’s that stunning!



We had such a great evening that we went back to Chez PECH two days later, and it was just as good, with just as many locals filling up the place quickly! In short, it’s a great spot that I highly recommend.

02/09/24 & 03/09/24 AJACCIO - Discovering the Emperor’s city Since we’re 5 km from the center, we take our car to park at the Diamant parking lot right in the city center. Be warned—if you go to this parking lot, the spaces are tight. And when I say tight, you’d need to be as flat as a flounder to get out of your vehicle.



We saw a Corsican guy ranting because he couldn’t get out of his car, and another who couldn’t get back in! So the next day, we opted for the Marconajo parking lot, near the ferry terminal. It’s a bit farther but so much more practical! Let’s just say it right away—Ajaccio charmed us less than Bastia. Still, there are a few little gems worth checking out. Let’s start with the cathedral. It’s not huge or lavish, but its very realistic and colorful statues remind us of those you see in some parts of Italy.







The town hall isn’t huge either, but it’s prettily... pink.



It’s located on a big square where you’ll also find—drumroll—Napoleon’s statue!



Nearby, you can see massive cruise ships unloading their daily flood of tourists. Apparently, the "Mein Schiff" ships are regulars here.



So, surrounded by our German neighbors, we hop on the little tourist train, thinking it’d be a great way to get our bearings and spot the city’s highlights. Big mistake! The commentary is super light, and the train spends half its time stuck in traffic. Aside from a stop at the memorial near Napoleon’s grotto, we didn’t find any value in taking this little train—unlike the one in Corte, which we loved! I wanted to check out the market. I was disappointed—it’s tiny, and inside the hall, there weren’t any Corsican products I hadn’t seen elsewhere. So, moving on...







(To be continued...)

(Ajaccio - continued) The citadel: A nice little walk, but there isn’t much to see. The old military buildings are in poor condition, and the whole place looks like it’s under construction with all the scaffolding—but we didn’t actually see any work in progress...







The house where Napoleon was born is a must-see.



We all want to see HIS bed. Actually, it’s mostly the bed where he supposedly slept during a visit to his mom!



Otherwise, it’s a beautiful bourgeois house that shows us Napoleon’s family wasn’t struggling—his dad, a notable, was part of the Corsican elite... which might explain a few things!



Napoleon’s dad, Charles-Marie Bonaparte (1746–1785):



Otherwise, in Ajaccio, you’ll find him at every street corner!





To be continued...

Rue du Cardinal FESCH is a long, pleasant pedestrian shopping street.



It’s also in this street that you’ll find the FESCH museum, a real surprise for anyone who enjoys pictorial art. The collection is impressive—not because of its size, but because of its diversity and the signatures of some of the greatest masters of the Italian Renaissance. Here’s a Madonna and Child by Titian (1488–1576). Even though the subject has been depicted hundreds of times, Titian remains a major name in the Venetian school.

Another Madonna and Child, this time by Sandro Botticelli (1445 - 1510).

Yet another Madonna and Child, but this one is by Giovanni Bellini (1425 - 1516), a precursor of the Venetian school. I really love Bellini for the softness of his lines and his art, which borders on the Byzantine. I was surprised to see one of his works here—usually, they’re in the biggest museums. The Fesch Museum is truly a first-rate museum. I don’t regret coming at all!

Between the rooms with large vaulted galleries...



Among these exceptional works, I’ve chosen to invite you to take a closer look at the remarkable pieces by Francesco Noletti, known as IL MALTESE (he was born in Malta), 1611 - 1654. I was really impressed by his talent. At a time when artists barely dared to step away from religious subjects, some painters excelled in still lifes—some with bouquets (Netherlands) and others, like Il Maltese, with carpets. Just look at the shimmering threads in this carpet... (Still Life with Oriental Carpet and Drapery)

In this other work by the master, Still Life with Oriental Carpet, the shimmering threads are gone, but you can almost feel the softness of the carpet under your fingers. How many hours of work must have gone into achieving such perfection?







But who was this Fesch? Archbishop of Lyon, Primate of the Gauls, and a diplomat, his roles, titles, and distinctions are numerous—but he’s best known for being Napoleon’s uncle. A great art lover, he amassed an enormous collection. Upon his death, he left behind 17,626 art objects and 16,000 paintings, of which 1,000 were bequeathed to the city of Ajaccio. This bequest led to the creation of the Fesch Museum.



(Since each post is limited to 10 photos, I invite you to follow me...)

(Musée Fesch continued...) Here we are now in the section dedicated to the nephew of the famous Cardinal Fesch—I’m talking about little Napoléon Bonaparte. That’s right, it seems Napo wasn’t very tall, but as the saying goes, he’s small but mighty... referring to his mind, his story, and his legacy!



If many representations of the emperor are displayed here, it’s because Napoléon cultivated his image with great care, not only through political writings but also through the arts.



We know Napoléon’s attachment to his family, especially to his mother, called "Madame mère" during the empire. A space is specifically dedicated to other family figures—that is, practically all his brothers and sisters...







Napoléon in his coronation costume by François Gérard.



Napoléon Bonaparte in the uniform of a volunteer officer by Claude-Marie Bubufe.



Bonaparte Crossing the Alps by Adolphe Yvon.



One last one for the road because the Musée Fesch isn’t just about Napoléon and Renaissance painters: A sunny work by Lucien Peri, a 20th-century painter born in Ajaccio, who brought Corsica’s light to the world. Other beautiful works by Corsican painters like Dominique Frassati are also on display at the museum.

I can’t include all my photos here, but the ones I’ve selected should give you a sense of the quality of the works. For me, I’d say this museum is a must-see in the city... and to think I almost missed it!

(To be continued...)

(Continued)

Ajaccio isn’t bad for shopping. You can find some surprisingly quirky little shops... you’ll either love them or not. We’re fans of that offbeat Pop Art vibe!





He’s really everywhere!





What else can I say except that I loved strolling through the little pedestrian streets like the ones you find in the old town.





Like good tourists, we went to lunch at a local attraction called the Restaurant de la Grotte Napoléon, located right near the emperor’s birthplace. There were barely a dozen of us. The Corsican meal was pretty good, but what makes this place special is that the experience starts with an actor in an Empire military costume telling us the story of the illustrious Napoléon Bonaparte. After that, a video plays on all the screens in the small room, and you learn quite a bit about the emperor’s life. Then the guy in uniform comes back, and you can ask him questions. Okay, I’ll admit we came here to brush up on our history and try some Corsican specialties, but it was actually a really enjoyable moment—even if the focus was more on Napoléon’s battles than his contributions to modern administration.

A quiet last evening at the Hôtel et Restaurant Pesch. That’s what vacations are all about!





(To be continued)

Good evening, I love reading your posts and appreciate your activities, restaurants, and those little moments of joy. You really know how to make the most of things!

To be continued... 04/10 On the way to Bonifacio The drive between Ajaccio and Bonifacio isn’t too long—just under 3 hours. We make a "reconditioning" stop. This is administrative jargon used during ministerial visits or similar, meaning bathroom break/freshening up/changing clothes. For me, it’s just "bathroom." So we stop in Propriano, which is essentially a large marina, and the town center isn’t all that interesting. There aren’t many people around, and few shops are open.





On the winding road, there’s always an excuse to stop and admire a Genoese tower, a beach with blue water, or both!



And here we are! Looking back, we consider this one of the most beautiful places we’ve seen in Corsica, and after chatting with other tourists and Corsicans themselves, it seems we’re not alone in feeling that way. Bonifacio has two very distinct areas: the port and the upper town with the citadel. We loved both, but for the hotel, I chose the port to be as close as possible to the boat we’ll take tomorrow to visit the Lavezzi Islands. We’re lucky to be staying in a lovely hotel (with parking) right on the port, away from the noisy restaurants and cafés, and facing the citadel. Let’s start with that: the SOLEMARE. The (spacious) room has a balcony overlooking the port—what a view! Here are a few photos to give you an idea...











The receptionist tells us there’s a little train that takes us up to the citadel without any hassle. It’s already nearly 5 PM, and the train stops running at 6 PM. I ask for a one-way ticket at the counter, but the guy tells me they only sell round-trip tickets. I point out that at this hour, it’s basically a rip-off. Plus, the weather isn’t really cooperating, and a freezing wind is blowing.



After a quick walk through a few streets in the upper town, I’m back... on the little train. I’m freezing! Hopefully, the weather will be better tomorrow for our boat trip!



To be continued...

Good evening, I love reading your posts and I appreciate your activities, your restaurants, your little gems. You really know how to enjoy yourselves!

Thanks so much for your encouragement! :)

05/10 Day trip to the Lavezzi Islands Glorious sunshine and a blue sky this morning. It's going to be a beautiful day.



Great! We're heading out for the day on this boat to the Lavezzi Islands.

I've read quite a bit about this excursion. Some say it's not worth the trip, that there's nothing to see on these islands. Others say the opposite. The only way to find out is to go there... I booked with the company "L’autre croisière" which offers a full-day excursion with meals on board.

We're not too crowded, and the other passengers are nice—no snobs here! The boat leaves the port under the imposing fortress.



We first sail along the cliffs of Bonifacio. Seeing the city from the sea is stunning!

In the photos, you can clearly see that diagonal line, which is none other than the famous King’s Staircase. You quickly realize that paying to go down and up the stairs isn’t really worth it, unless you're looking for a "cardio" workout... and that’s not our thing!



But here’s the monument on Lavezzo Island, paying tribute to the sailors of the *Sémillante*, a ship that wrecked on the rocks of the Lavezzi Islands on February 15, 1855.



"This frigate, the pride of the French Navy, had set sail from the port of Toulon, heading toward the Black Sea and the Crimean War, with around 300 sailors and 400 soldiers on board. Instead of rounding Sardinia to the south due to bad weather, the captain took the strait of Bonifacio. The two cemeteries on the island hold the remains of the recovered bodies. There were no survivors." (Source: Bonifacio municipal tourism office)



Fortunately, the weather is much calmer today, and our boat docks in the cove of Lazzarina.



The dinghy, a sort of Zodiac, drops us off on a lovely white sand beach.



From there, we can explore the marked trails, but be careful not to stray off them to avoid damaging the protected local flora. Yes, we’re in the Bonifacio Strait nature reserve. The weather’s nice, not too hot, and there aren’t many people on the island. In short, perfect conditions to enjoy this stunning nature with granite rocks smoothed by erosion—reminding me of Brittany, though some say it looks like the Seychelles because of the blue water...



The hard part for me will be sorting through all these photos—I took so many... (to be continued...)

LAVEZZI Islands (continued) This island is truly beautiful. You can feel the lush yet fragile flora. That’s why it’s important to stay on the marked paths.

The large, rounded rocks take on all the shapes our imagination can give them...



The views from each little cove are different, but the water is always that incredible shade of blue...



Some coves invite you to take a dip, but watch out for the small jellyfish...



We sat here for a long time, watching the waves crash against the rocks. It feels a bit like Brittany...



There are few structures on the island except for this shepherd’s hut...



...and the lighthouse with its keeper’s house.



We head back to the boat for a meal: I don’t remember much of the menu except for the lobster pasta. There’s also a swimming session for those who want to take a dip. A young German couple is making the most of it!



Next, we sail along Cavallo Island, known as the "billionaires’ island." You can see a few seaside villas, but they’re not particularly interesting. Already, the white cliffs of the town come into view.

We can see the erosion at the base of the cliffs, which has created some impressive large holes...



Nature continues its work, and it’s certain that one day, all of this will collapse! It’s time to head back to the port after this wonderful day. Conclusion: Time flew by. We’re absolutely enchanted by this day. The little island we visited is truly charming. Of course, we had great weather (it’s October!), and there weren’t many of us. I can hardly imagine exploring it in the middle of August, under scorching heat with crowds of tourists—there’s not a shred of shade there. (to be continued)

10/06 The cliffs and citadel of Bonifacio It's our last day in Bonifacio. The sky is a bit overcast, but that's okay as long as it doesn't rain. We head toward the upper town via the grand staircase from the port.



When we reach the top of the stairs, we have a choice: to the right, the citadel and the old town; to the left, a nature walk along the cliffs. Since it's still early and there aren't many people around, we choose the second option. But before we set off, we take a look at the cliff face supporting a few buildings...



After a short climb, we reach the plateau, which already offers a breathtaking view of the town.



The trails are fairly easy, as long as you're not afraid of plants (for the taller ones).





A ray of sunshine brings a beautiful light to the cliff, creating a postcard-perfect view.



We thought we could walk all the way to the lighthouse...

but at some point, we realize we won't be able to reach it—a ravine stands in our way.



On our way back, we spot a magnificent sailboat anchoring offshore. It's the Royal Clipper, the largest tourist sailing ship in the world with its five masts, which has come to drop anchor off the upper town of Bonifacio! Stunning!



It's a beautiful surprise, but don't be reckless like some people just to take a photo...

(to be continued...)

Next) Bonifacio: the upper town Back at the famous crossroads at the top of the stairs, head right to climb up to the citadel, which houses the old town.



I love strolling through the narrow, bustling (or not) streets of old towns, where around the corner of a building you find a beautiful church or some flowers...



That’s a bit what Bonifacio’s upper town is like. The old town is charming, clean, and lively.



Since it’s lunchtime, I quickly check TripAdvisor, which points me to a highly rated little restaurant, CASARELLA. The entrance isn’t much to look at. We’re told to "take a detour" through a small adjacent alley to reach the terrace out back. Luckily, there’s still a table available. We run into the Canadians we met this morning during our walk along the cliffs and had chatted with a bit.



After an excellent meal at a good price, we leisurely wander through the streets.



If some streets are so lively today, it’s because there’s a local festival: the Sardinians from Santa Teresa di Gallura, located across the way, have come to meet the people of Bonifacio, who maintain special ties with these islanders like themselves! It makes sense since the little ferry makes many trips between the two islands, which are only 13 km apart.



There are a few surprises in this lovely town of Bonifacio...



For a few euros, you can explore part of the fortified town.

From there, we have a beautiful view of the harbor.



The walk back down is easier. This little white chapel, which we hadn’t noticed on the way up, with the sea in the background, reminds me of a postcard from Greece!



(to be continued...)

Following up Impressions and tips for Bonifacio I found this place stunning. There’s something for everyone: the sea, nature, historic sites, terraces, shopping... It’s also a town that, according to our guide during the Lavezzi Islands walk, would love to be counted among the "places to be" for the jet set, like Saint-Tropez or Portofino...

As a result, some establishments charge exorbitant prices. For example, the restaurant "La Caravelle" on the harbor offers a Bonifacio-style bouillabaisse (funny, I thought bouillabaisse was from Marseille!) at 249 €... but it’s for two people!!!



The harbor seems to be a party spot, and among the "in" places is the trendy bar/club "B52," which blasts electro music across the entire harbor.

It’s located right next to the Hotel La Caravelle—the same one with those outrageous prices! So if you’re looking for peace and quiet, this isn’t the right spot. On the other hand, at the Hotel Solemare on the other side of the water, we weren’t bothered by the music...



The harbor has some gorgeous yachts with people you can’t really talk to...

The biggest yachts are docked at the end of the piers so they’re clearly visible.



Speaking of which, the *Ventum Maris*, a private 66-meter yacht (a little $70M toy), just moored there as if it were no big deal.



Restaurant tip: Go for the ones up top rather than down below. I mean, it’s worth making the effort to climb up to the old town to find charming little restaurants at reasonable prices, like *CASARELLA*, instead of eating at the overpriced tourist traps on the harbor. Unless you go—this is the exception that proves the rule—all the way to the end of the harbor, in the least touristy part. That’s where we found *KISSING PIGS*, a unique spot that feels a bit like a mountain refuge, with sausages hanging above the counter. The menu revolves around Corsican specialties and offers hearty dishes served in cast-iron pans. Let’s just say it’s piping hot, and you’ll leave with a full stomach. But don’t think the owners are locals—they’re from Brittany but do a great job. We chatted at length with the chef, who, like us, had lived for a long time... in French Guiana!



(To be continued...)

Good evening, I was convinced the KP’s owner was Corsican! He deserves credit for always being open. As for the B52, it’s an institution that’s been around for 30 years (at least). Your travel journal is always great!

10/07 The charming old village of Porto-Vecchio Today we're leaving Bonifacio for Porto-Vecchio, but since our next destination is less than half an hour away, we planned to go for a walk in the mountains near the famous Bavella needles. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't on our side, and we quickly found ourselves in the fog. After a tough start to the climb, we decided to turn back. There's no point in stubbornly continuing if we can't see the scenery. We headed for Porto-Vecchio instead. There, the sky was much clearer. We parked near a large parking lot taken over for a classic car rally touring Corsica. We'll get to see quite a few of them. To reach the old town, you have to climb, as everywhere here. Once at the top, the little village is a real haven of peace—there's no one around!





















After this charming discovery and a light lunch, we headed back to our hotel by the Santa Giulia beach... (to be continued)

(continued)

Santa Giulia is one of the prettiest beaches in Corsica. Our hotel, the Moby Dick, is right by the water and has a private beach—what a luxury! I’d read quite a few negative things about this hotel, and the people who were with us on the Lavezzi boat and staying in a bungalow hadn’t spoken highly of it either. To our pleasant surprise, we were warmly welcomed by a young woman who showed us to our room. The room was perfectly fine—spacious, with a lovely terrace overlooking the sea.





I mean, just look at that blue water!...



What followed proved that you shouldn’t always trust negative reviews on Tripadvisor, because our short stay at the Moby Dick was perfect: the room, the setting, the meals (we were on half-board), the bar, the beach... Since the weather was nice and the sea was calling, we took the chance for a dip—refreshing, but so good!







The icing on the cake: behind the hotel, there’s a lagoon with loads of birds, including—you’ll never guess—flamingos!





We’re on half-board for these two nights at the Moby Dick. The service is friendly, and the dishes are delicious. What else? (to be continued...)

(Continued) 08/10 What to do on a rainy day at Santa-Giulia Beach? This morning, the wind is whipping across the sea, and rain is falling in the gray light.



What to do? We’re not just going to stay cooped up watching the rain from our terrace...



...or settle into a comfy chair in a cozy corner of the hotel with a good book...



We pull out our rain jackets and stretch our legs by walking the length of the beach to the far end, where big, rounded rocks—like those on the Lavezzi Islands—give this beach a "Seychelles" vibe.



Kids are playing in the waves.



In the parking lot behind the hotel, Italians are making final adjustments to their vehicles, prepped for the Tour de Corse.



Meanwhile, we spend hours watching the birds. Among the pink flamingos—princes of this lagoon—there’s a great variety of wading birds like herons, egrets, and others...





With poor lighting and my mediocre camera settings, my photos aren’t very sharp—especially since I can’t identify this funny raptor wearing a Zorro mask!



The surprise at the end of the day: riders pass by—not on the beach, but *in* the water!



Recap of this gloomy day: We could’ve stayed inside, despairing over not enjoying such a beautiful beach, but in the end, we didn’t get bored. I’m not sure I’d say the same if we’d had to spend a whole week here in the rain! (to be continued)

(continued) 09/10 End of the trip and wrap-up This is our last day in Corsica. The rain has stopped, and we’re enjoying the great little breakfast at Moby Dick on the terrace.



The plan is simple: drive back up the east coast to Bastia, meet up with our friends near the airport for one last lunch/debrief, return the rental car, and not miss our flight to Lille! The Corsica road trip season kicks off today. On the roads, we see vehicles of all ages and engine sizes, but all of them are loud and proud!



We’re happy to meet up with our Corsican friends on the terrace of a restaurant near the airport, and we’re just happy because this trip exceeded all our expectations.

A few images showcasing Corsican humor. We love it!







In conclusion: What can be said about Corsica that hasn’t already been said? The Island of Beauty lives up to its name. There are no ugly spots, and there’s something for every taste. The little ports of Cap Corse remind you a bit of Greece, the towns a bit of Italy, the villages a bit of Provence, and everywhere the mountains embrace the sea with their stunning shades of blue. Corsica has its own unique identity. Now, about the Corsicans: I had a lot of preconceptions, like all the other tourists we met, and after talking with them, we all agreed on one thing: Corsicans are very kind, welcoming, and friendly. The jerks you sometimes see caricatured in movies are actually pretty rare. Our Corsican friends, who hosted us at the start of the trip, called us "the adventurers." I guess most tourists pick one spot and don’t move much, preferring to enjoy the beach. That’s not our "travel style." We’ve always loved exploring, moving around, and this time we circled the island, staying in Erbalunga, Porto, Ajaccio, Bonifacio, and Porto Vecchio—but no hiking, even though I’d hoped to do some walking near the Bavella needles, which we didn’t reach because of the weather. The only little walk we did was along the cliffs of Bonifacio, but what a memory! It’s hard to say what we liked best. It’s more about the "moments"—like our lunch in the port of Centuri, meeting that little donkey at the Vergio Pass, a conversation with the elders of the village of Cargèse, a wild speedboat ride to the Calanques of Piana where we almost reverently entered the heart of the red rock cliffs to the sound of Corsican songs, a beautiful stroll along the cliffs of Bonifacio on a sunny morning watching the Royal Clipper, that magnificent five-masted ship (the largest tourist sailing vessel in the world), drop anchor at the foot of the citadel, or that last surprise on Santa Giulia beach with riders entering the sea on horseback… In short, it seems this period (late September, early October) was ideal for discovering the island. There weren’t many people around, the shopkeepers were relaxed, and the temperature was perfect—not too hot. Just a heads-up: this probably wouldn’t suit beach lovers, hot sand enthusiasts, or swimmers since the sea was quite chilly, but the color of the water—this incredible blue—convinced us to give it a refreshing dip, and we loved it! Well, that’s it…😕 Most of the Corsicans we met, when we told them it was our first time on the island, all said the same thing: it wouldn’t be our last!

Corsica isn’t my top pick, unlike Sardinia. Probably some old grudge with its locals since a certain Bonaparte. But you’re a great guide—plus a foodie—and I loved following along. Maybe it’s a Cinderella story, with a pumpkin and a carriage. 😉

Thanks for your story—it was a real pleasure to read. And thanks for your conclusion, which shows we need to challenge those preconceptions. Françoise, a Corsica lover by choice

Thanks for sharing this! Really want to follow in your footsteps! 🙂

Hi, did you do it on foot or by car? Thanks

If you had read: "return the rental vehicle" !

Corsica is amazing!