3 weeks in Colombia in August 2024

Hi there,

This summer, we spent 3 weeks in northern Colombia. A vibrant trip that complemented our southern Peru adventure from the previous year perfectly. Two neighboring countries, but completely different.

To start, we had to make a choice because the country is vast.

So we focused on 3 different regions for our 3 weeks: - Week 1: Bogotá and the colonial villages (Villa de Leyva, Barichara) - Week 2: Medellín and the Coffee Region - Week 3: the Caribbean coast

We entrusted the organization to a small local agency that handled accommodations, guides, and transportation. Transportation is key. The country is large, the road network isn’t very efficient, and we spent a lot of time traveling (cars, planes, and boats...), but it was the price to pay to explore it.

The overall budget isn’t exactly "backpacker" level. We spent 7,500 € (excluding Air France) for our 3-week stay (hotels, drivers, guides, flights, visits, meals). But we treated ourselves to nice accommodations—you’ll see as we share more posts.

For vacations, I try to follow Philippe Noiret’s motto: "Travel is short. Let’s try to do it first class."

Week 1: Bogotá and the colonial villages.

It's raining in Bogotá when our AF flight lands around 7:30 PM local time. We're a bit jet-lagged, so we head to the "El Dorado" hotel in the quiet Parque 93 neighborhood. A great choice!

The next day, it's still raining...

We head to La Candelaria—it's very quiet (it's Sunday). We had planned to go up to the "Cerro de Monserrate," but the cloud cover is too low (or is Bogotá just too high!). So we go to the Paloquemao fruit market instead, then arrive at the "Museo del Oro" for its 10:00 AM opening. This museum is simply extraordinary! A profusion of beautiful objects, a very impressive presentation, an experience that reminds us of the Larco Museum in Lima (for the ceramics). We spend a good 2 hours there.

After that, we explore downtown: the "Carrera 7" for a coffee, the "Plaza Simón Bolívar" with its Cathedral, and the Botero Museum (housed in a beautiful building)...









On the streets, many Venezuelans are protesting against Maduro’s regime. It’s election day for them, and Colombia has 2.8 million migrants from that country.











In the afternoon, we visit another fruit market, then stroll through the Usaquén flea market. It’s a bit touristy, but it’s okay—we pick up a few souvenirs we’ll collect at the airport on our way back.



In the evening, we’re invited to Andrès DC, a trendy restaurant that reminds us of the "Hard Rock Café" from our younger days... Anyway, nothing very typical, but the "lomo al trapo" is really good!

Monday morning, heading to Villa de Leyva.

On the way, we’re visiting the Nemocón salt mine, located 60 km north of Bogotá. The tour is guided, and there are only four of us (just us two and a Colombian couple). We chose this mine over the "Salt Cathedral" in Zipaquirá to avoid the crowds. I hope it was the right call!

In the afternoon, we arrive in Villa de Leyva. A "colonial" village with its white houses and beautiful square originally designed for Spanish troop reviews. These villages were born from the Spanish desire to "occupy the land." Retired soldiers were given a plot of land to settle in these villages.









Our "boutique hotel" is really nice (the "Casa Terra").



Even in the rain, the charm works its magic with its cobblestone streets, flower-filled patios, kids coming home from school, its beautiful church, and all the ammonites visible in the paving stones or house foundations.

Tuesday morning, the sky is still gray. It's windy, and the kites are out on the square. We tour the village with the guide, take time to sip some "agua de panela," and then head to the village of Raquira, known for its many potters who work with clay.

It’s our first "colorful" village, and it’s really nice while still keeping a bit of authenticity. In the church square, a clay "Manneken Pis" taunts the faithful!



















Along the way, we enjoy some black pudding at "Fogón Al Carbón" in Sutamarchán. Back in Villa de Leyva, the sun peeks out. The contrast between the whiteness of the walls and the dark paramos all around is stunning!

For dinner, a special mention for the restaurant "Chuska Cocina"—their soups and meats are a real treat!

On Wednesday, we hit the road again, and it’s a long haul to Barichara. 5:00 AM with buses, trucks, tolls, winding roads... and accidents (3 overturned trucks on the bends).

We finally arrive and check into the "Achiotte" hotel—super nice with its pool and birds.

In Barichara, we finally feel some warmth. The colonial village sits in the middle of a "desert" that isn’t so desert-like in August. We’ve totally fallen for this little town with its white houses, ochre sandstone churches, vibrant flowers, colorful tuk-tuks, and its baroque cemetery. You’ve got to climb to the very top of the village to snap *the* iconic photo of those cobblestone streets, white walls, and red roofs around the beautiful Immaculate Conception Church.





















And don’t forget the cemetery—it’s baroque! !

Thursday morning, we took the "Camino Real" to Guané. It’s supposed to be a 2-hour hike, but it took us 3.5 hours—plenty of time to soak in the scenery, enjoy the sun, and grab an *agua de panela*. In Guané, don’t miss stopping for a drink at the "Mirador del Río Suárez".















We took the bus back to Barichara to revisit this little gem and check out the "San Lorenzo" foundation (an artisan paper workshop that supports local women).







Another drink on the terrace, more photos, and a quick dinner at "Noa Comida", where the *arequipe* crepe ("El Volcán") is a nutritionist’s nightmare.

Friday was a travel day... 3 hours on the road to Bucaramanga, skirting the Chicamocha Canyon, then a 1-hour flight to Medellín, where we wrapped up the first chapter of our trip. The hotel "Diez" is right in the heart of El Poblado, but I don’t recommend it—the Colombians are way too loud in the hallways.

Saturday morning, we headed to Comuna 13 with our guide. It’s interesting, but it’s become *super* touristy—though, let’s be real, we’re tourists too! The murals are beautiful and tell the neighborhood’s story, street dancers liven things up, the escalators are a unique feature of the area, and there are always street vendors under the watchful eye of the police.

Right after, we visited downtown Medellín. To sum it up, we weren’t exactly blown away.

Sure, there are Botero’s sculptures, but what you mostly see are sex workers and drug users in the side streets.











On the other hand, the metro is a real success—it works just as well as the "metro cable."



Since it’s Flower Festival week, we head to the botanical garden... only to find it closed. There’s a private event, and the garden won’t open until the next day! Not a great look for the guide...





Back to Poblado and Provenza, where the city’s wealthy youth party hard. This is where we really felt the country’s inequalities. Between the super-rich and extreme poverty, the gap is huge.





One highlight of the neighborhood: the restaurant "Rocoto" and its Peruvian specialties.

On Sunday, we're heading to the Rock of El Peñol and then Guatapé. The road is beautiful, and the "chivas" (colorful buses) are out in full force.





El Peñol has a bit of a "street-fair vibe"... Lots of Colombians tackling the 700 steps you have to climb to reach the top.





But the view from the top is pretty cool.

Same for Guatapé, it was really crowded... The colors of the « zócalos » are nice, the countryside is beautiful, and the fruit juices look delicious.





















You’ve got it—this part of Medellín / Guatapé won’t be the most memorable. We could’ve skipped it to spend more time in the coffee region...

But luckily for us, the best is yet to come! !

Monday morning, we take off from Medellín to Pereira and head straight to Salento, right in the heart of the "Coffee Triangle" spanning the three regions of Quindío, Caldas, and Risaralda. The village is really charming, especially when a ray of sunshine shows up.





















In Salento, "Terasu" will be our home base for two nights.

We really prefer these colorful villages to sprawling cities. The weather’s rainy, so we’re taking refuge at « Sueño de fresas » for a hot chocolate and a strawberry pastry. Highly recommend it!











In the evening, dinner at Maji By Cerón.

Tuesday, heading to the Cocora Valley and its wax palms. Crammed in with 12 of us in the Willys, we zoom toward the valley.

It rained all night, so we decide not to do the long loop through the forest. We head up to the "bosque de palma" as far as the third viewpoint. It’s nice, it’s beautiful, it’s amazing!











A little higher up, the mist catches up with us...







Back in Salento, the village is even more beautiful in the sunshine.

We head up to the village viewpoint (not worth it!). After coming back down, we grab a coffee at "Balcon de los Recuerdos" (what a machine!) and then head for a little hot tub at the hotel.





A side note on coffee in Colombia—I found it more like "sock juice" than a "ristretto." Every coffee reminded me of Starbucks’ "americano"... far from Italian roasting.

Hello. Great travelogue—it gives a fair overview of the regions you visited. Colombia actually has even more diversity, with the Llanos Orientales, the Amazon, the south, the Pacific coast, La Guajira... Beyond guidebooks (Routard, Petit Futé, etc.), I’d recommend one of the few French-language "coffee-table books" on Colombia, published last September by Géorama. I’m happy to say I’m the author: https://www.philippepratx.net/Colpresent.htm. Let’s chat if you’re interested!

On Wednesday, we're passing through Filandia (it's a bit like Salento but with power lines). The road is beautiful, right through the tropical forest.











On the farms, the mini-pig makes a charming pet!

Then we do a personalized visit to the coffee farm "Casa Vieja" in Quimbaya.







Beyond coffee, it’s the discovery of an extraordinary garden planted over three generations by a family of coffee lovers.















From there, we make a quick hop to arrive in paradise! 😊

This paradise is called "Finca Nora" in Quimbaya.

A beautiful white and red house built in the early 20th century, its colonial architecture—known as "Antioquian"—is typical of coffee fincas.







The finca has kept its agricultural roots (coffee, cocoa, bananas...).







We’re staying in a "cabin" in the garden.



Everything here is authentic and perfect—the two-story villa with its wooden staircase and beautiful circular terrace, the coffee and banana plantations, the garden with its wild bamboo grove where capybaras and hummingbirds pass by, the delicious meals, Nora and Roberto’s warm welcome, and the smiles of Adriana and Luz, who prepared enchanting dinners for us (oh, their ajiaco!).







Le Figaro even featured them in an article back in 2016: https://www.lefigaro.fr/voyages/2016/10/21/30003-20161021ARTFIG00110-en-colombie-sur-la-route-de-l-or-vert.php

My kingdom for an ajiaco!



Our "cabin":





Thursday, a "bubble" day at the finca. We go for a walk around.





We also chat at length with Nora and Roberto, who give us a tour of their Garden of Eden. It’s the advantage of speaking Spanish fluently.



A little tour of this Garden of Eden:

Friday, it’s with a heavy heart that we leave the coffee region for Cartagena.

Latam leaves us stranded in Pereira, and what follows is a whole day of hassle. We arrive in Bogotá 2.5 hours late and will have to wait 5 hours for our next flight to Cartagena (the other two flights are fully booked).

But why didn’t we just take a direct flight from Pereira to Cartagena, especially at the end of the week when all the Colombians are heading to the beach? Big blunder by the agency! !

Saturday, it’s Cartagena. The weather is oppressive, the heat is humid—terrible conditions for me…

But the city is nice, and our "boutique hotel" ("Alfiz") lets us explore the city and cool off every couple of hours. And the hotel’s "little dip" really refreshes us.





The old town is charming with its churches, street vendors, and walls, but tourism is definitely ramping up here. While we mostly heard French in the colonial villages and Europeans in the coffee region, we’re starting to hear more "Americans" now. Though they’re still not the majority—they prefer Cancun, where they already feel like they’re in "terra incognita."

More in photos







Here again, a Botero “fat lady” statue sits proudly in the square. You’ve gotta touch her butt for good luck and her breasts for a long love life—what a program!







The nails on the doors were a sign of the owner’s wealth.

Colombia is proud of its "Misses."

In the afternoon, we head to the Getsemaní neighborhood. We pass by the clock tower, which didn’t blow us away. It’s time for a game of chess.



We preferred the Plaza de la Aduana (Customs Square).

Then, we cross Centenario Park with its monkeys and iguanas—you’re invited to see them for just a few pesos!





Getsemaní is calm and colorful during the day, but in the evening, it’s all about music (as is often the case in Colombia), and it’s very lively with a young crowd—two reasons we didn’t spend the evening there.











Last but not least, a special shout-out to Gelateria Paradiso. A real treat with flavors that go way beyond vanilla-strawberry...

Sunday, the cruise is fun.

The "lancha rapida" is waiting for us at the port, and off we go for a 2-hour crossing to Mucura Island in the San Bernardo archipelago.



More precisely, to the "Punta Faro" hotel for two days on full board.









Punta Faro is a hotel with around forty bungalows nestled between a coconut forest, a sea of seven colors, and a white sand beach: luxury, peace, and pleasure! We loved it!







Our bungalow:

We tour the island and venture all the way to the mangroves of Tintipan, passing through Santa Cruz del Islote.















We run into fishermen from the islands of the San Bernardo archipelago.

This review makes me want to buy a Paris-Bogotá ticket right away! 🙂

What about safety?

No safety issues... if you act like a "responsible adult" (especially if you avoid the sketchy neighborhoods in big cities).

Tuesday, back on solid ground where a long journey awaits us to reach Santa Marta and Tayrona Park.

5 hours by car, passing through Cartagena, Barranquilla (the beaches there are ugly but it’s Shakira’s hometown), and finally Santa Marta.

Another great find on the hotel front—we’re staying 3 nights at the "Cayena Beach Villa" with half-board. The hotel is perfect (11 rooms, gorgeous pool, private beach, coconut trees, and smiles galore). We got upgraded to a better room... we’re starting to feel like "gringos"!

Wednesday it’s Tayrona Park.

We’re getting our tickets at El Zaino and then off for the hike to Cabo San Juan. The start is pretty intense—lots of ups and downs on wooden stairs, and it’s scorching hot.









It’s crowded, mostly Colombians who aren’t exactly known for being quiet. As a result, we barely spot any birds during the walk—just a few monkeys at the start begging for food.









For lunch, we’re grabbing a meal for two on the beach for 20,000 pesos (that’s 4.38 €!).

We skip the beaches ("Cañaveral", "Arrecifes", "Arenilla") and strike gold—we settle in for a 2-hour swim at "la Piscina." There aren’t many people, the place is stunning, and the sea is calm since it’s a lagoon...









After that, we push on to Cabo, which is packed with people thanks to all the *lanchas* dropping off tourists from Santa Marta.

We stay for 30 minutes, but it’s 3:00 PM, and we need to start thinking about the return trip...







We’re not horseback riders—we’ve never even ridden a horse before. But to avoid the 3-hour hike back, we opt for the *canassons* (1 hour 15 minutes via a dedicated path).

On paper, why not? But in reality, we quickly wonder what we’ve gotten ourselves into. The horses know the terrain, but it’s steep climbs and descents between rocks, crossing paths with mules carrying supplies—no one "pulls over" on the rocks. The lead horse rears up if the second one tries to pass, and our guide is often walking far behind us. In short, an epic return trip that, luckily, ends without incident.

Silver lining: we take an alternate (and sometimes very steep) path. A chance to cross paths with a family of "Tayronas" (the tribe living in the park) walking barefoot through the forest...



If we had to do it over, we’d have walked back after swimming at "la Piscina."

Thursday morning, we're heading to Minca. From the Caribbean coast, you can see the three snow-capped peaks, the highest being "Cristóbal Colón," which rises to 5,775 meters.



The road to Minca is winding, but it was recently redone, and we arrive at the cocoa/coffee farm "Candelaria" without any issues. The landscapes are stunning.







We’d read a lot of great things about this farm. But I don’t have an unforgettable memory of it, probably because of the number of participants—there were about thirty of us for the "cocoa tour." It didn’t allow for much interaction. That said, the tour isn’t expensive (30,000 pesos), and the price isn’t the same as the personalized coffee tour we did. And, the icing on the cake, everyone gets to make their own chocolate mask!













Afterward, we head back down the mountain to return to our dream hotel, especially since my wife stayed behind to rest.

Friday, beach time in the morning and departure in the afternoon for Santa Marta airport. We arrive in Bogotá to wait for the return flight to Paris, which takes off at 11:55 PM.

In reality, we took off around 2:00 AM after 30 minutes of pat-downs and luggage searches by the local customs (with the dog). Here, the police don’t mess around!





Then, 1.5 hours of waiting on the plane because a "pilot control light came on, and they want to figure out where it’s coming from"!



Summary of the 3 weeks: A beautiful trip, friendly people, vibrant colors, music everywhere, no insecurity (as long as you don’t do anything stupid), and a country that complements Peru perfectly. If we were to do it again, we’d skip Medellín to spend less time on transport (too many domestic flights) and more time in the coffee region.



Special mention to the "colonial" villages, far from mass tourism and very authentic. Another special mention to the coffee region, which we really loved. With the Caribbean, it’s actually three trips in one summer.

We found tourism much more "youth-oriented" than in Peru. Indeed, there are lots of sports available (especially on the coast) and for much cheaper than in Europe.

Colombia has huge tourism potential compared to Peru, which already exploits its classic route (Nazca, Arequipa, Titicaca, Cusco) a lot.

Budget-wise, we spent in 3 weeks what we spent in Peru in 15 days. Yet, we’d chosen accommodations a notch above those in Peru (even two notches for Quimbaya, Mucura, or Tayrona).

Downsides: We missed "the must-see" like "Machu Picchu" or "Lake Titicaca" in Peru. And also some stunning Andean landscapes as far as the eye can see, as well as the traditional outfits of the local populations that we loved in Peru.

If you’re looking for those Andean colors, I’d recommend visiting Peru first for a trip to South America. And, as a result, I’m marking Bolivia as a possible future trip to rediscover those landscapes—and even more.

Hasta pronto...

Thanks so much, Manu, for taking the time to share this feedback—it gives a great overview of what you can visit in Colombia! 😊😍 My husband really wants to go, but my concern is that I feel like everyone (French people, at least) goes to the same spots—the must-sees, you know? For the island near Cartagena, are there any walks to do or villages that are just "a paradise rock"? Thanks

Hi Solene, Colombia is huge, really huge!

We’re going for the "classic" route, but I’m sure you could do something way more original... a hike in Nevado, whale watching in Chocó, exploring the Amazon, trekking to the Lost City, crossing La Guajira... For Mucura, yeah, it’s a tiny island. But for a more "off-the-beaten-path" vibe, Tintipan could be a good compromise (?)

What’s certain is that this country has incredible potential for tourism—diverse landscapes, super friendly and warm people, outdoor activities, culture, and amazing food...

Hello,

This summer, we spent 3 weeks in northern Colombia. A vibrant trip that complemented our southern Peru adventure from the previous year perfectly. Two neighboring countries, but completely different.

First, we had to make a choice because the country is vast.

So we focused on 3 different regions for our 3 weeks: - Week 1: Bogotá and the colonial villages (Villa de Leyva, Barichara) - Week 2: Medellín and the Coffee Region - Week 3: the Caribbean coast

We entrusted the organization to a small local agency that handled accommodations, guides, and transportation. Transportation is key. The country is large, the road network isn’t very efficient, and we spent a lot of time traveling (cars, planes, and boats...), but it was worth it to explore.

The overall budget isn’t exactly "backpacker" level. We spent 7,500 € (excluding Air France) for our 3-week stay (hotels, drivers, guides, flights, visits, meals). But we treated ourselves to nice accommodations—you’ll see as we share more posts.

For vacations, I try to follow Philippe Noiret’s motto: "Travel is short. Let’s try to do it first class."

Your travel journal is fantastic, thank you. We’re leaving for Colombia in a week—the same destinations you mentioned. We’ll be there for two months, so we need to cut costs a bit. Your recommendations are really valuable. I was wondering if you could send me the agency’s itinerary—it would help us avoid extra costs while following your route. Here’s our email: gigilegogigilego@gmail.com Thanks in advance. Gigi We’ve also traveled a lot, so if you need any travel recommendations, don’t hesitate to ask. We live in Montreal, Canada.



Your travel journal is fantastic, thank you. We’re leaving for Colombia in a week—the same destinations you mentioned. We’ll be there for two months, so we need to cut costs a bit. Your recommendations are really valuable. I was wondering if you could send me the agency’s itinerary—it would help us avoid extra costs while following your route. Here’s our email: gigilegogigilego@gmail.com Thanks in advance. Gigi We’ve also traveled a lot, so if you need any travel recommendations, don’t hesitate to ask. We live in Montreal, Canada

It’s in your inbox! :)

Hi there,

Thanks for this super colorful travel journal—it was a real feast for the eyes! 🙂

Colombia seems to be getting trendy these days; I feel like we’re hearing more and more about it.

And when you see all the variety of activities and the potential, it’s easy to understand why.

I was just rereading your Peruvian travel journal today—thanks for those valuable insights and for the time you put into it.

Totally agree with you about Colombia’s potential. This country has everything going for it, even if it still worries a lot of potential visitors (blame the TV shows?).

Personally, I wasn’t too worried about safety there.

But it’s true that when we mention the idea to others, it’s definitely not the most common perception—far from it.

Unfortunately, I think the guerrilla activity flared up this weekend, and that won’t help reassure people, even if it’s a localized issue.

Personally, I trust the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website (same for Peru and all other destinations).

https://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/fr/conseils-aux-voyageurs/conseils-par-pays-destination/colombie/#securite

In Colombia, when I showed the map to drivers, they all agreed it was very relevant and well updated.

https://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/local/cache-vignettes/L617xH940/20240904_colombie-fcv_cle497cfb-2cac2.jpg?1725453750

Thanks for this lovely travel journal. For my 2026 trip, I’m torn between going back to Peru (the northern half this time) or heading to Colombia... 😇 The thing is, I really want to see Andean landscapes again, and I’m not sure if the Colombian Andean region is as stunning as its Peruvian counterpart. As for safety, France is way more dangerous than Colombia...

We didn’t see any typical "Andean landscapes" in Colombia... but we only saw a small part of the country. What really won us over was how the two destinations complement each other: the southern half of Peru has nothing in common with the northern half of Colombia (landscapes, vegetation, vibe, character, authenticity...).

Still, I won’t lie—those "Andean landscapes" are still at the top of what we came to South America for... So Bolivia is now on the "Wish List" (along with Argentina—Patagonia and/or the Salta region)...

Yes, my trip to northern Chile/southern Bolivia last summer was probably my most beautiful trip ever.

Hello,

Thanks so much for this travel journal. We’re planning to visit Colombia during the last three weeks of August. We’re torn between ending our trip in Cartagena and Tayrona or exploring the Pacific coast around Nuquí. What would you recommend? Given that we prefer places that are a bit wild and not too touristy. Are there a lot of tourists in Cartagena and Tayrona during the last week of August?

Hi Léa, Those two destinations (Cartagena and Tayrona) are among the most touristy in Colombia.

In Cartagena, you're going for the city, its architecture, its vibe, its lively neighborhoods... Tayrona has the park, but also a more "authentic" area (Minca), the chance to trek through the forest (like the Lost City), and endless beaches where you can (relatively) have some alone time to chill in the sun and swim.

Two very different vibes... but if you're looking for "wilder spots," the Santa Marta region is definitely the way to go (since Tayrona Park isn’t the only option there).

I haven’t been to Nuquí. We’d already seen whales in other latitudes, and I’m not sure what else there is to do in that remote area you can only reach by plane.