Halong Bay
What we commonly call "Halong Bay" is actually made up of three bays. From south to north:
- The small Lan Ha Bay, south and east of Cat Ba Island, inaccessible to large cruise junks because the channels aren’t deep enough for big boats—so it’s more intimate and, above all, cleaner;
- Halong Bay itself, north of Cat Ba, also very beautiful but crowded with tourists since it can accommodate large boats (up to 35 cabins), making it very dirty due to many Asian tourists—except for the Japanese—who throw everything into the water: cigarette butts, bags, empty cans, etc.; - The large Bai Tu Long Bay, north of Halong Bay, characterized by larger islands with beautiful beaches and fewer tourists since it ideally takes 3 days to explore all three bays. PRIORITIZE LAN HA BAY FOR 2 DAYS AND BAI TU LONG BAY FOR THREE. Some travelers want to visit the bay in just one day. Strongly discouraged ! In fact, you need to allow 7 to 8 hours for the round trip between Hanoi and the bay; adding boarding time, you’ll only spend a few hours on a boat and barely scratch the surface of the bay. Plus, one of the most magical moments of the cruise is waking up in the morning surrounded by limestone karsts. Two days/1 night on a junk is the minimum to enjoy the enchanting landscapes. AVOID cheap junks! There’s no secret: cheap = limited comfort, laughable food, and service that’s barely acceptable. Never forget this is a unique site in the world, so it’s worth visiting under the best conditions. Don’t confuse Halong Bay with the "terrestrial Halong Bay" in Ninh Binh (Tam Coc). The first is 110 km north of Hanoi, the second 100 km south, right in the Red River Delta. Both are magnificent, and it’s now possible to take a direct bus from one to the other. To visit the bays, you have two options: - Travel to Cat Ba Island or Halong City on your own and book a junk on-site. We don’t recommend this, as there are many issues—especially overcharging for foreign tourists in ground transport and shortened cruises, not to mention you don’t speak Vietnamese. You’ll end up paying at least the same price as through a Hanoi agency, likely more, since you’re at high risk of being ripped off. - Book an organized tour in Hanoi with a good agency. Given the complexity of traveling from Hanoi to Halong and renting a junk on-site, this is by far the easiest option, with countless possibilities—from private junks (more expensive but with huge advantages) to luxury, superior, and standard group junks. Benefits: with a good agency, you’ll have a hassle-free cruise with no scams, and everything is included in the price: round-trip transfers from your hotel to the boat, guide, junk, all meals, site entries, kayaking, etc.
When it comes to choosing a junk, there are also two options: A private junk is by far the best for many reasons: - You’re the only passengers on board - Smaller than group junks, a private junk can navigate channels inaccessible to large boats and stop at small beaches also off-limits to big vessels - Private junks can anchor wherever the captain chooses, so in a quiet little bay, whereas all large junks are required to spend the night in the same big bay by local police order - Better service and food Of course, these advantages come at a cost—but after all, Halong is a once-in-a-lifetime trip! For luxury private junks, I recommend Bhaya Cruises and Indochina Junks. For superior, one of the best is Oriental Sun (2 cabins/2 bathrooms), owned by the excellent agency Oriental Bridge Travel. Also excellent are the two Dai Duong junks—the 02 with 2 cabins and the 03 with 3.
Group junks range from Deluxe to Superior. Choose a medium-sized junk (8-12 cabins). Among the Deluxe, Bhaya Cruises and Indochina Junks are flawless. For Budget, the superior Swan, Cozy Boutique, and Ocean 7 are great.
Warning: While group junks can be booked once in Hanoi (except during peak season), private junks must be reserved well in advance, especially in high season.
To make your choice and booking easier, the best is to contact Oriental Bridge Travel, which, unlike other agencies that offer every junk imaginable (from the best to the worst), has carefully selected 2 or 3 in each category. Check their website and, in the menu, click all the "Halong" links from "Luxury Private Junks" to "Superior Group Junks."
TRANSPORT TO HALONG BAY
Cruise prices include round-trip transfers between Hanoi and Cat Ba City or Hon Gai. If you want to go to Halong on your own, there are three departure ports for cruises: Cat Ba Island (especially for Lan Ha Bay), Halong City/Bai Chay port (Lan Ha, Halong, and Bai Tu Long), and Cai Rong, which serves only Bai Tu Long Bay. From Hanoi: To Cat Ba, take the Hanoi-Haiphong bus and the Haiphong-Cat Ba speedboat (3-hour journey). This is the fastest option since the boat arrives directly in Cat Ba City. Buy a combined ticket for Hanoi-Haiphong + Haiphong-Cat Ba speedboat. For Halong City, there are frequent direct buses. From other cities: Direct buses from Haiphong or Cat Ba City to Ninh Binh and Sapa. WHERE TO STAY IN CAT BA? If you spend a night in Cat Ba (not essential), there are more and more hotels. Here are the ones I liked among those I’ve visited: 2-star: Cat Ba Dream Impeccable, with a large terrace overlooking Cat Ba Bay, and unbeatable prices: $15-20 for a single/double/twin, $30 for a large triple. The owner is a great cook. 3-star: Hung Long Harbour Brand new and spotless, overlooking Cat Ba Bay. Ask for rooms with a balcony (the suites have very large terraces). Great value for the quality! Single/double: Standard 65 $, Deluxe 80 $, Suite 100 $, extra person: 30 $ There are also several bungalow hotels on the beach: on Monkey Island (3 km from Cat Ba City), the Cat Ba Monkey Island Resort; another on a different island 5 km south of Cat Ba City, the Cat Ba Ocean Beach Resort; and a third, the Cat Ba Beach Resort. In the mountains inside the island, you can stay at the Cat Ba Suoi Goi Resort and the Cat Ba Whisper Bungalows. RESTAURANTS In Cat Ba City, I’ve tried quite a few restaurants—more bad than good. Two excellent floating restaurants in Cat Beo, especially the one on the left. WHAT TO DO? Beyond cruises, there are some interesting sites to visit on the island: · Visit the Cannon Fort: No one goes there, and everyone’s wrong! It’s not far, just behind Cat Ba City on Nui Ngoc Road, the street leading to Cat Beo. You climb to 177 m altitude at the top of a hill with a superb panoramic view of Halong and Lan An Bays. In 1942, the French installed an artillery fort with three 137 mm cannons controlling the passages in the bay; two remain, along with the casemates. It later became an anti-aircraft post during the Vietnam War. Unfortunately, the last time I went, the road was blocked. Still worth a try—great views from the climb. Entry: 50,000 dong, and it’s worth it! · The national park: It covers three-quarters of the island. You can simply stroll or go trekking, especially the 15 km to Viet Hai village. No animals in sight. Just before the park entrance, visit the Viet Hospital, a series of caves remarkably set up as a hospital during the Vietnam War (there was even a natural pool and a cinema room). · The beaches (Cat Cô): The three beautiful beaches in coves at the southern end of Cat Ba City’s esplanade are taken—the first by a children’s water park and the other two by a huge hotel complex.
- The small Lan Ha Bay, south and east of Cat Ba Island, inaccessible to large cruise junks because the channels aren’t deep enough for big boats—so it’s more intimate and, above all, cleaner;
- Halong Bay itself, north of Cat Ba, also very beautiful but crowded with tourists since it can accommodate large boats (up to 35 cabins), making it very dirty due to many Asian tourists—except for the Japanese—who throw everything into the water: cigarette butts, bags, empty cans, etc.; - The large Bai Tu Long Bay, north of Halong Bay, characterized by larger islands with beautiful beaches and fewer tourists since it ideally takes 3 days to explore all three bays. PRIORITIZE LAN HA BAY FOR 2 DAYS AND BAI TU LONG BAY FOR THREE. Some travelers want to visit the bay in just one day. Strongly discouraged ! In fact, you need to allow 7 to 8 hours for the round trip between Hanoi and the bay; adding boarding time, you’ll only spend a few hours on a boat and barely scratch the surface of the bay. Plus, one of the most magical moments of the cruise is waking up in the morning surrounded by limestone karsts. Two days/1 night on a junk is the minimum to enjoy the enchanting landscapes. AVOID cheap junks! There’s no secret: cheap = limited comfort, laughable food, and service that’s barely acceptable. Never forget this is a unique site in the world, so it’s worth visiting under the best conditions. Don’t confuse Halong Bay with the "terrestrial Halong Bay" in Ninh Binh (Tam Coc). The first is 110 km north of Hanoi, the second 100 km south, right in the Red River Delta. Both are magnificent, and it’s now possible to take a direct bus from one to the other. To visit the bays, you have two options: - Travel to Cat Ba Island or Halong City on your own and book a junk on-site. We don’t recommend this, as there are many issues—especially overcharging for foreign tourists in ground transport and shortened cruises, not to mention you don’t speak Vietnamese. You’ll end up paying at least the same price as through a Hanoi agency, likely more, since you’re at high risk of being ripped off. - Book an organized tour in Hanoi with a good agency. Given the complexity of traveling from Hanoi to Halong and renting a junk on-site, this is by far the easiest option, with countless possibilities—from private junks (more expensive but with huge advantages) to luxury, superior, and standard group junks. Benefits: with a good agency, you’ll have a hassle-free cruise with no scams, and everything is included in the price: round-trip transfers from your hotel to the boat, guide, junk, all meals, site entries, kayaking, etc.
When it comes to choosing a junk, there are also two options: A private junk is by far the best for many reasons: - You’re the only passengers on board - Smaller than group junks, a private junk can navigate channels inaccessible to large boats and stop at small beaches also off-limits to big vessels - Private junks can anchor wherever the captain chooses, so in a quiet little bay, whereas all large junks are required to spend the night in the same big bay by local police order - Better service and food Of course, these advantages come at a cost—but after all, Halong is a once-in-a-lifetime trip! For luxury private junks, I recommend Bhaya Cruises and Indochina Junks. For superior, one of the best is Oriental Sun (2 cabins/2 bathrooms), owned by the excellent agency Oriental Bridge Travel. Also excellent are the two Dai Duong junks—the 02 with 2 cabins and the 03 with 3.
Group junks range from Deluxe to Superior. Choose a medium-sized junk (8-12 cabins). Among the Deluxe, Bhaya Cruises and Indochina Junks are flawless. For Budget, the superior Swan, Cozy Boutique, and Ocean 7 are great.
Warning: While group junks can be booked once in Hanoi (except during peak season), private junks must be reserved well in advance, especially in high season.
To make your choice and booking easier, the best is to contact Oriental Bridge Travel, which, unlike other agencies that offer every junk imaginable (from the best to the worst), has carefully selected 2 or 3 in each category. Check their website and, in the menu, click all the "Halong" links from "Luxury Private Junks" to "Superior Group Junks."
TRANSPORT TO HALONG BAY
Cruise prices include round-trip transfers between Hanoi and Cat Ba City or Hon Gai. If you want to go to Halong on your own, there are three departure ports for cruises: Cat Ba Island (especially for Lan Ha Bay), Halong City/Bai Chay port (Lan Ha, Halong, and Bai Tu Long), and Cai Rong, which serves only Bai Tu Long Bay. From Hanoi: To Cat Ba, take the Hanoi-Haiphong bus and the Haiphong-Cat Ba speedboat (3-hour journey). This is the fastest option since the boat arrives directly in Cat Ba City. Buy a combined ticket for Hanoi-Haiphong + Haiphong-Cat Ba speedboat. For Halong City, there are frequent direct buses. From other cities: Direct buses from Haiphong or Cat Ba City to Ninh Binh and Sapa. WHERE TO STAY IN CAT BA? If you spend a night in Cat Ba (not essential), there are more and more hotels. Here are the ones I liked among those I’ve visited: 2-star: Cat Ba Dream Impeccable, with a large terrace overlooking Cat Ba Bay, and unbeatable prices: $15-20 for a single/double/twin, $30 for a large triple. The owner is a great cook. 3-star: Hung Long Harbour Brand new and spotless, overlooking Cat Ba Bay. Ask for rooms with a balcony (the suites have very large terraces). Great value for the quality! Single/double: Standard 65 $, Deluxe 80 $, Suite 100 $, extra person: 30 $ There are also several bungalow hotels on the beach: on Monkey Island (3 km from Cat Ba City), the Cat Ba Monkey Island Resort; another on a different island 5 km south of Cat Ba City, the Cat Ba Ocean Beach Resort; and a third, the Cat Ba Beach Resort. In the mountains inside the island, you can stay at the Cat Ba Suoi Goi Resort and the Cat Ba Whisper Bungalows. RESTAURANTS In Cat Ba City, I’ve tried quite a few restaurants—more bad than good. Two excellent floating restaurants in Cat Beo, especially the one on the left. WHAT TO DO? Beyond cruises, there are some interesting sites to visit on the island: · Visit the Cannon Fort: No one goes there, and everyone’s wrong! It’s not far, just behind Cat Ba City on Nui Ngoc Road, the street leading to Cat Beo. You climb to 177 m altitude at the top of a hill with a superb panoramic view of Halong and Lan An Bays. In 1942, the French installed an artillery fort with three 137 mm cannons controlling the passages in the bay; two remain, along with the casemates. It later became an anti-aircraft post during the Vietnam War. Unfortunately, the last time I went, the road was blocked. Still worth a try—great views from the climb. Entry: 50,000 dong, and it’s worth it! · The national park: It covers three-quarters of the island. You can simply stroll or go trekking, especially the 15 km to Viet Hai village. No animals in sight. Just before the park entrance, visit the Viet Hospital, a series of caves remarkably set up as a hospital during the Vietnam War (there was even a natural pool and a cinema room). · The beaches (Cat Cô): The three beautiful beaches in coves at the southern end of Cat Ba City’s esplanade are taken—the first by a children’s water park and the other two by a huge hotel complex.