16 days in Peru in August 2023

Hi everyone, The years go by and Machu Picchu has been on our "to-do list" for a few decades now... But Peru is, fortunately, so much more than this legendary site...

We went as a couple for a 15-day trip. For the first time, we delegated the logistics to a local agency (Paprika in Arequipa). This agency offers "classic" small-group tours and the option to do it privately, which we chose.

No complaints—they were perfect for organizing transportation, hotels, and French-speaking guides.

The "classic" southern Peru loop is: Lima, Paracas, Nazca, Arequipa, Colca, Titicaca, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Cusco. Nothing very original... but why get creative when there’s already so much beauty to discover?

We opted for a shorter loop, skipping Paracas/Nazca because the small planes in Nazca weren’t a unanimous hit, and it saved us dozens of hours on the bus. But we added a stop at Palccoyo (the rainbow mountains) between Titicaca and Cusco.

It might seem like a shame, but we don’t regret it at all.

Between the jet lag and the nights at high altitude, we already had a pretty "packed" schedule.

Sunday, July 29th, we took off from our province, had a 2-hour layover at Paris CDG, and then a 12.5-hour flight to Lima with AF. Nothing to report. In Lima, an endless wait for our luggage, then a taxi to our hotel in the Miraflores district. Lima "the gray" lived up to its reputation. We didn’t care—we were just going to get (almost) a full night’s sleep to recover.

Outside, it was a night of National festivities—people dancing in the squares, music playing loudly. A really good-natured vibe at Kennedy Park.



The next day, we left the hotel around 8:00 AM for the historic center. The Plaza de Armas, the cathedral, the changing of the guard at the presidential palace, the convents, the faith of the Peruvians... nothing unusual under the gray skies. Just a short distance away, the colorful houses of the "less privileged" neighborhoods stretched endlessly.



Lima is a sprawling city where 2 million households don’t have running water.

We headed to the Larco Museum around noon for our first taste of Peruvian cuisine. And it was a delight! The museum is really nice and very well presented.













Around 3:00 PM, we took a taxi back to Barranco, Lima’s "bohemian" district, and walked back to our hotel. The overcast weather didn’t win us over, but it was a chance to log our first 13.5 km on foot for the day!

On Monday, July 31st, LATAM flew us south to Arequipa in just 1 hour and 30 minutes. Arequipa, "the White City," was our very first "love at first sight" moment.



It’s the country’s second-largest city, but it feels worlds away from Lima. Here, you get sunshine, a moderate altitude (2,300 meters), a compact but stunning city center, breathtaking volcanoes all around, a much more provincial calm compared to the capital, countless courtyards and patios that remind you of Spain, and top-notch cuisine (which is a big deal for us).











Less than 100 km away, a volcano woke up and made headlines on our Google News before we arrived. Between violent protests, political crises, Guillain-Barré syndrome outbreaks, and erupting volcanoes, 2023 really gave tourists every reason to cancel their trips. As a result, there are far fewer visitors, and everyone in tourism mentions it. So, we’re welcomed with big smiles because "you’re actually here!"



Another plus: I’m bilingual (after spending a year on Erasmus in Madrid—back in 1988). As I always say, "El español es como andar en bicicleta, nunca lo olvidarás!" (Spanish is like riding a bike—you never forget!). It helps with sharing, exchanging, and chatting, even if locals tease me for my "too Spanish" accent.

As for Peruvians, they sure know how to party. Today kicks off Arequipa’s 15-day festival. There’s a military parade (straight out of *Tintin and the Picaros*), traditional Arequipa music, and lively tunes on the Plaza de Armas. What really strikes you is the pride locals take in calling Arequipa home.







You’ve probably gathered by now—we really loved Arequipa.

Let’s get back to Arequipa, where we’ll spend a day and a half. Must-sees: Plaza de Armas, the Santa Catalina Monastery (a marvel), La Compañía (another marvel for its cloister and sacristy painted in jungle colors), its great restaurants (Zig-Zag and Chicha), and its rooftop bars with incredible views of the Misti towering right above us.



La Compañía:











We were a bit underwhelmed by San Camilo Market and preferred Mirador Yanahuara over Mirador de Carmen Alto.





One last little bonus: the charm of Hosteria hotel...

But let's get back to the Santa Catalina Monastery.

This convent covers 2 hectares and is a feast for the eyes. The colors are reminiscent of Morocco, with blues, oranges, and reds...



















We spent a solid 2 hours there. A paradise for photographers!

To be continued...

Wednesday, August 2nd, departure for Colca Canyon. The landscapes of the Altiplano are stunning with Misti in the background.









Gradually, the road climbs above 4,000 meters, and herds of llamas, alpacas, and vicuñas watch us pass, just like cows do with trains back home. In the distance, Sabancaya spews its smoke. We cross convoys of trucks returning from the mines, loaded with rocks. A pickup truck always signals what’s coming—if it says "26," that means 26 trucks will follow!





At the highest point, we’re at 4,910 meters, in a lunar landscape of stone cairns. Breathing is short, walking is slow, and your head spins a little. But coca tea helps a lot.





We really appreciated stopping in Arequipa first to start acclimating to the altitude. Tonight, in Colca, we’ll be at 3,300 meters, before reaching Lake Titicaca at 3,800 meters...

When we arrive in Chivay, we pay our entrance fee and head straight to Colca Lodge in Yanke, a charming hotel with the huge advantage of having its own thermal baths. We can relax in 37°C water... and as usual, it’s full of "French" people, but also Peruvians who are in their second week of winter vacation.

The next day, we get up early because we have a meet-up at the Mirador de la Cruz for some birdwatching.



In the Plaza de Yanque, the young people from the valley put on a morning show for us "tourists". We play along, aware that it’s also a source of income for them.





The condors are definitely there—at least fifteen of them—flying back and forth right before our eyes. But the real "spectacle" is the canyon itself, massive and incredibly scenic. The short hike we’re about to do will let us appreciate it even more, even if we’re only scratching the surface (it’s twice as deep as the American Grand Canyon).











One last little "Colca Sour" for the road (a local aperitif made from cactus), and we hit the road again for Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca. The drive is long...

Friday, August 4th—Lake Titicaca, here we come!

The night was quiet in Puno, a city that doesn’t exactly "break the bank," except for the restaurant "Mojsa," where I finally got to try my first "cuy" (a large guinea pig, which is a delicacy in Peru).







On the agenda: a visit to the Uros floating islands. We had an entire boat to ourselves, plus our guide—hello, ecology!

Then a 3-hour boat ride to reach Amantani Island, where Irma and Baptisto welcome us. What a pleasure to share this day with them! We chat, we gossip, we have an infusion, we share meals... And dinner will be simple but exceptional!





Little by little, we discover their island with the ascent of Pachatata, the island's "summit."



Laughing, we’ll say we just did our first "4000"! Actually, the lake is at 3,820 meters and the summit at 4,080 meters. A piece of cake on paper, but with the altitude, we’re coughing up our lungs a bit...

Here, time seems to have stood still!

The night is peaceful and calm, the sky is starrier than ever... and already we have to leave the next day. Off to Taquile Island where the party’s on again.











On this last day of the Feast of Saint James, the village gathers in the main square. The program includes drums, pan flutes, and folk dances under the watchful eyes of the "authorities" dressed in black (the mayor and his deputies on one side, the community leader and his peers on the other).

The men are sitting on chairs, knocking back beer after beer, while the women sit on the ground, chewing a bit of coca. The weight of tradition!











By late afternoon, it’s back to Puno.

Sunday, August 6th: Another early wake-up call... We take off at 6:30 AM from Puno to Cusco, starting with a drive through Juliaca, where the market has been bustling since 4:00 AM. While Puno is focused on the lake, Juliaca is the city where everything is bought and sold. Stalls of fruit, cans of contraband from Bolivia, drugs (for those who want them) because it’s also a hub for narcos...

For us, it was more about uncertainty. Juliaca is a stronghold of opposition to the regime, and it’s often where roads are blocked by armed protesters. Let’s just say that in those cases, things can quickly turn violent...

It’s worth remembering that Peru suffers from an extremely corrupt political class. So much so that almost all of its former presidents have ended up in prison (5 at the moment). The most recent one tried to dissolve Congress—he’s now behind bars, and his vice president is in charge.

On the road, construction on bridges keeps popping up. They were supposed to be finished, but a local authority changed sides and is still waiting for their cut of the bribe. Long story short, payments are on hold, and so are the works... A chronic issue here.







The La Raya Pass marks the transition between the Puno region and Cusco. From there, you can tell it’s greener and wealthier too. But for us, it’s time to leave the main road for the dirt track. A 3-hour round trip on rough roads to reach the colorful mountains of Palccoyo. It’s long, but it’s stunning (as President Chirac would say).

We pass alpacas and climb up to 4,750 meters. From there, a short 2-hour hike takes us around Palccoyo at nearly 4,950 meters. We’re gasping for air (again) and wishing the sun would come out. Without it, the views are far from those Photoshopped shots you see online.









Afterward, we descend from the mountain and head straight to Cusco, arriving around 6:30 PM. Great hotel (Rumi Punku) right in the heart of the San Blas neighborhood, just a stone’s throw from Plaza de Armas. We’re exhausted but still find the energy to try another amazing restaurant: "A mi manera," not far from the hotel.

The next day, the guide takes us to Sacsayhuamán (just above Cusco), where we discover the "imperial" constructions with its enormous blocks fitted to the millimeter to last longer. The site is stunning!







We pass by the Cristo Blanco and walk down to the San Cristobal church, where we get the best view of the Plaza de Armas. The celebration is still going on here, and we follow the procession heading back down to the Cathedral amid a symphony of firecrackers and car horns. Peruvians love a good party, and you can tell! Then, we stop by the San Pedro market and take a little detour to San Blas to soak up the vibe. Cusco is a city where you need to take your time.













The downside is that it’s really a tourist trap. We encounter hordes of Americans who come to Peru only for Cusco and Machu Picchu. You have to weave your way through the crowds in the narrow streets of the historic center and dodge the street vendors set up on the sidewalks. In short, it’s better not to look up too much.



Tomorrow, we’re heading to the Sacred Valley for 3 days...

Still in Cusco... (we loved it!)

Tuesday, August 8th, departure for the Sacred Valley.

Again, we’re not trying to pull off any stunts or have some "experience"—just sticking to the classics, nothing but classics. On Tuesday, we head to Pisac, visit the upper part of the site (for about 1.5 hours), stop by the market (20 minutes), and then transfer to Ollantaytambo to enjoy the site before it’s in the shade (it’s not as nice in the afternoon). Wednesday, we’ll take the trip to Machu Picchu. And on Thursday, we’ll return to Cusco via the Maras salt mines, the Moray terraces, and the village of Chinchero... nothing but classics, as we keep saying! (And that suits us just fine.)

The key to the trip (as with the previous days) is beating the tourist crowds. For example, instead of leaving our hotel in San Blas around 8:00 AM, we take off around 7:30 AM. The big advantage of doing everything privately is that we leave the sites just as the buses, minibuses, and other vehicles arrive...

Pisac is still a bit under the clouds when we arrive. Since the tunnel collapsed, the descent to the lower part of the site is done by going around the mountain. So we’ll just stick to the upper part. It’s nice, but nothing mind-blowing...









The Pisac market is 100% touristy—no real interest for us. We stay for about 15 to 20 minutes.

Ollantaytambo is way nicer. The site is remarkable with its fountains, terraces, and Temple of the Sun... and the village is also worth a detour because it’s stayed true to its roots. By the way, a great restaurant here: "Apu Veronica".

Much better than the other on-site restaurant (Chuncho), which tries a bit too hard to be "hip" with its music. The crowd is mostly in their thirties and knocking back Pisco Sours—definitely not our vibe.

Another perk of Ollantaytambo is its train station for Machu Picchu. On Wednesday, we took the PeruRail Expedition train at 6:10 AM.

PeruRail Expedition—now that’s a service that’s a nice change from our local SNCF! The train is punctual, comfortable, and very airy with its panoramic windows, whisking us to Aguas Calientes at a leisurely pace. Fun fact: PeruRail is a subsidiary of Orient Express, which belongs to LVMH—so it’s a little taste of France! From there, we quickly take the bus to the site, and by 8:10 AM, we’re at the gates of Machu Picchu... in thick fog!



We’ve read so much about Machu Picchu: it’s restrictive, there’s a guard every 15 meters, it’s too expensive...



But coming to Peru without seeing Machu Picchu is like visiting New York without the Statue of Liberty or Paris without the Eiffel Tower—it’s a tourist no-brainer. For us, though, we didn’t feel that "pressure." We spent 4 hours on the site doing Circuit No. 2 (the most complete). We’d studied the four possible circuits (since 2022) to pick the right one, along with the opening and closing times for the options (Intiwatana is open from 7:00 AM to 10:00 AM, and the Temple of the Condor only opens from 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM). We knew we couldn’t go back, so we adapted and took our time early on, especially waiting for the fog to lift.















Around 12:30 PM, we headed back down to Aguas Calientes for a quick lunch at the *Boulangerie de Paris* (not great), and our train left at 3:20 PM, bringing us back to Ollantaytambo by 5:15 PM. On the way back, we even got a little snack offered by some very smiley hostesses.

On Thursday, the sun came out brilliantly for a visit to the Maras salt mines. The site is extraordinary—a salt flat perched at 3,500 meters where everything is done by hand. We stayed there for over an hour watching the rotations of the "salt carriers"...











Next, we spent an hour at Moray to see the genius of the Incas in agricultural terraces. The depth and layout of the terraces allowed them to test crops under different humidity and temperature conditions.







Finally, Chinchero—a small village (a little *too* touristy) where the church was built on the foundations of an Inca temple. There’s even a preacher giving a sermon to his thirty or so parishioners about the redemption of their sins. Quite the scene.

In the late afternoon, we return to Cusco, where we’ll spend our last two days without a guide or any travel. A great way to "soak in" the city—revisiting Cristo Blanco, cheering on the dances at the Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo (a must-see), attending a morning mass at the Cathedral, visiting the Santo Domingo Convent, grabbing a drink in the heights of San Blas, running into a shaman at the Regional Museum who’ll introduce us to the cult of Pachamama, and wrapping up our shopping at the San Pedro Market (where you don’t always haggle if the price is fair)... in short, taking our time!

A few photos of the San Blas neighborhood and its residents, taken under the sun...





















On Sunday, August 13, LATAM takes us back to Lima, where we wait for the 6:00 PM Air France flight that’ll plunge us back into the heatwave of mainland France. Just a few more hours of waiting, and we’ll be back in our Auvergne (where the dormant volcanoes will seem so green and a little too flat).

It's already time for the recap: a trip that went off without a hitch, with great discoveries and wonderful encounters with guides and drivers, as well as Peruvians in general. The agency "Paprika" lived up to expectations and fully satisfied us. Some nice hotels, but above all, amazing food to discover (and at reasonable prices). Not too many kilometers traveled (even if the Puno / Palccoyo / Cusco day was probably a bit "intense"), stunning landscapes, and a place to cross off my "bucket list" of trips to take before it's too late.

Budget-wise: 5,500 € for Paprika (French-speaking guides, hotels, transportation, LATAM flights, and the Machu Picchu train) + the Air France tickets from Paris (using Frequence Plus miles) and 800 € spent locally on meals and entry fees for certain sites...

Thanks Manu for sharing your trip to Peru! I’ve been tempted by this destination for a long time.

I’m still a bit hesitant about it now, especially because of the access conditions for Machu Picchu (the price, mandatory reservations, and not being able to come and go freely on the site), and the political instability that can lead to blockades (we experienced this in Bolivia in 2019 and don’t want to repeat that painful experience).

Anyway, thanks again, and congrats on the photos—they’re amazing, especially the ones of Peruvians.

Hi Xéta, Peru—we go for Machu Picchu... but when we look back after the trip, we realize there were so many other things we loved: the charm of Arequipa, Misti and the other volcanoes, Lake Titicaca, the Altiplano, condors and llamas, the city of Cusco, the Sacred Valley, the hikes, the quality of the restaurants, the people we met...

In short, Machu Picchu is the "flagship" attraction, but there’s so much to see and do that I can only encourage you to go for it in Peru! !

I really enjoyed reading your travel journals about Peru—thanks for sharing such a great introduction to a country I don’t know much about! Keep up the good work.

I have a quick question: why choose an agency when you're perfectly capable of expressing yourself in Spanish (which is my case, even if, like you, it's Castilian)? Safety concern?

Thanks Manu for this travel journal—it took me right back to my 2017 trip, pretty much the same route (with stress-free access to MP!). Because yeah, when you go to Peru, before "getting off the beaten path," there are so many amazing sites you just can’t miss!!! Lovely photos. Bruno

Good evening Sissi, The question is understandable, especially since it wasn’t our usual way of doing things.

But I’ll admit, I was won over for several reasons: - Organization of transport (2 domestic flights, trains, car transfers, boat...) and visits (Machu Picchu, homestay, hike in Palcoyo...) - French-speaking guides (since my wife doesn’t speak Spanish) - Punctuality and flexibility in case of difficulties (social unrest is pretty "heated" in Peru) - And above all, the "Peace of Mind" aspect, as they say in the U.S.: No stress on-site, no bad surprises, and just one contact to manage our entire trip

We’re approaching our sixties and wanted to take it easy. But two of our kids did it in 2024, and neither went through an agency (except for certain treks, and even then). So it’s also a generational difference.

We’ll be doing Bolivia in 2027 and will go through this agency again.

Hello and thank you for this lovely travel journal and these beautiful photos. Peru is on our future travel list, but we have some concerns due to our ages (70 and 74) and not being in the best physical shape. In your opinion, what should we cut from your itinerary to avoid too much fatigue, knowing that this is the "ideal" circuit on paper? Could you send us the agency’s itinerary in a PM after removing your personal details, of course? Thanks again! Best regards, Larri

Thanks for your reply. We’re a little past the mid-sixties mark... but we don’t like being herded around, and we really hate sitting in the back seat of a car. I’ll admit what’s holding me back is the question of social unrest—complete roadblocks—and, more broadly, safety concerns. It’s hard to get a clear picture from Europe; you hear everything and its opposite.

For us, no issues with social movements at all.

And no risk of "forced guiding" when transport is privatized. It’s *the customer* who decides what they want or don’t want to do.

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Hi Manu,

Thanks for this amazing travel journal.

We were supposed to go to Peru in 2020, and like everyone else, we had to cancel our trip. We want to make up for it in 2025 or 2026, but preferably as a self-drive trip. We’ll see if we can still organize it for spring 2025.

A self-drive trip seems doable on this route. The roads are good, and locals are pretty respectful of the rules of the road.

A self-drive seems doable on this route. The roads are good and locals are pretty respectful of the rules of the road.

We’re planning to get off the beaten path, so it’ll be a 4x4. In the Palcoyo Mountain region, we’ve scheduled several hikes. But it’s tough to find info when you stray slightly from the usual circuit.

Can you give me more details about visiting Machu Picchu? We’d love to climb both mountains, but according to their website, it doesn’t seem possible.

Palcoyo—I don’t have any ideas for hikes there... I have a son who did the Ausangate trek (solo with two friends) that passes near Vinicunca, and he loved it. He actually preferred this trek way more than the one that leads to MP.

As for MP, we did the "classic" tour, meaning tour #2 (which lets you arrive via the terraces but doesn’t give access to the mountains). Arrived by train, took the bus up from Aguas Calientes, and returned by train.

Hello,

I forgot to mention the hotels and restaurants...

Lima: - Hotel Britania - Miraflores: Okay, nothing special, but well located for Miraflores - Restaurant at the Larco Museum: A bit pricey (in hindsight)... but so good!

Arequipa: - Hotel "La Hostería": TOP! A beautiful historic house with a patio, views, and breakfast. - Restaurants: 2 great spots in this lovely city: "Chicha por Gaston Acurio" (Really good!), "ZigZag" (Great food and a very cozy atmosphere—don’t miss the waiting room). For lunch, "La Despensa" across from the Santa Catalina Monastery. For an evening on a terrace with an incredible view: "La Terraza on the Top" at the corner of Plaza de Armas. The view is amazing in the late afternoon.

Colca: - Hotel and restaurant at "Colca Lodge": Simple cabin but so well located. The restaurant is very good with 3-star service, and especially access to thermal pools like nowhere else.

Puno: - Hotel "Conde de Lemos": Okay, nothing special. Well located. - Restaurant "Mojsa" is great—we tried the famous "cuy" (which, for once, was actually appetizing).

Ollantaytambo: - Hotel "Tika Wasi Valley": Simple, but the staff is friendly (there’s probably better) - Restaurant "Apu Veronica" is really top-notch (food, family-style service...), much more "local" than the "Cruncho" restaurant with its more international vibe (and which is much pricier)

Cusco: - An exceptional hotel in the historic center: "Rumi Punku". Housed in an ancient Inca palace (check out the door), it’s a charming hotel, very well located with a good breakfast, large rooms, a lounge to enjoy herbal tea, and top-notch service! - Restaurants: "A Mi Manera" right next to the 12-sided stone: Our favorite in Cusco. Great dishes and pisco as we like them—a must-visit! "Inkazuela" on the beautiful Plaza Nazarenas: Very good, not too expensive (for the quality) and just steps from the hotel—another safe bet! "Rucula" right next to "A mi Manera", also good. For quick lunches: "Local Restaurante" on Cuesta de San Blas, "La Valeriana" on Plaza Espinar, "Qucharitas" for its ice cream and salads on Calle Procuradores...

In summary, you eat very well in Peru! And I recommend targeting the good spots because they’re worth it...

Hi Manu,

I just discovered (a bit late) this varied and colorful travel journal... which really makes me want to visit Mexico! 🙂 I was wondering if you had a car rental planned for each stop, but if I understood correctly, a driver (different depending on the location?) accompanied you each time. A quick budget question: the 5500 € at the agency—is that per person or for two?

Hi Manu,

I just discovered (a bit late) this varied and colorful travel journal... which really makes me want to visit Mexico 🙂 I was wondering if you had a car rental planned for each stop, but if I understood correctly, a driver (different depending on the place?) accompanied you each time. A quick budget question: the 5,500 € at the agency—is that per person or for two?

Hi Muriel! Nothing’s stopping you from wanting to go to Mexico, but we were actually in Peru (our Muriel still has her head in Mykonos, haha)

Phew, good thing you're here, Bruno, to correct my nonsense 😏! Not quite awake this morning 🤪 (otherwise, I would’ve left Mykonos for Amorgos ages ago 😉).

Good morning and good wake-up, Muriel,

The advertised price is for 2 people.

It includes: - 15 nights in hotels (with breakfast) - The flight from Lima to Arequipa and the 2 airport transfers in Lima (arrival and departure) - The transfer from Arequipa airport to the hotel. - Three private drivers: Arequipa to Colca, then Colca to Puno, then Puno to Cusco - A French-speaking guide who accompanied us from Arequipa and took us for the morning at Colca Park (Condor and a short 1.5-hour hike) + entry to the park - A cocktail on the terrace with our agency in Arequipa - The (private) boat for the islands on Lake Titicaca and access to the 2 islands (Amantani and Taquile) - A French-speaking guide for the 2 days on Lake Titicaca and a lunch + dinner with a local family who lives on the less touristy side of the island—I understood that the bus boats made tourists sleep on the south side of the island, but we stayed on the north side. - Round-trip with the driver for the hike to Palccoyo (he came to walk with us). - A French-speaking guide for a full morning in Cusco (from Sacsayhuaman to the market) with a driver to get to Sacsayhuaman (we walked back down on foot). - An offer of about fifteen sites to visit in Cusco (museums, sites, dance evening, etc.) - A driver for the 2 days in the Sacred Valley and access to the sites (Pisaq and Ollantaytambo on Day 1, and Maras, Moray, and Chinchero on Day 3) - The round-trip train between Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu) on Day 2 - The 2 tickets for Machu Picchu and the bus for the round-trip from Aguas Calientes - The transfer to Cusco airport and the flight from Cusco to Lima - A complete roadbook, a smartphone, and 24/7 support.

In short, we weren’t disappointed with this agency! ... ...which has great reviews: https://fr.trustpilot.com/review/paprikatours.com

Ah, so many great memories in Amorgos!

Thanks for the details (.... of Peru! 😇 😏!). That seems totally fair price-wise, especially if you were happy with it.

Actually, I just got back from the Cyclades—my travel journal’s now on Amorgos... but did you guys go above the monastery? (I don’t think I saw a path that continued beyond it 🤪).