Three weeks in Norway (July 2022): fantastic memories despite the rain

Our trip to Norway was two years ago already, but I thought it might still be of interest—and it’ll let me relive it a bit by proxy.

Before booking our flight tickets, we debated the route: should we prioritize the north with the Lofoten and Senja islands, or the south with its countless fjords? I was tempted to stay in the south—the country is so vast, and the drive north is long... but my husband really didn’t want to miss the Lofoten. In the end, we figured that since Norway is known for being expensive, we might only visit once (funny how we said the same thing before our first trip to the American West, and look how that turned out 😎), so we didn’t want to skip anything. That meant a 2–3 day drive up north. With 22 days on the ground, it was doable. Especially since, as usual, we skip big cities and gave Oslo a pass.

Practical details: - Flight tickets: 1195 € for 4 with Air France (Paris–Oslo outbound, Tromsø–Bergen–Paris return) - Car rental: 2020 € for 21 days (including the outrageous drop-off fee between Oslo and Tromsø—about 1000 €) - Tolls and ferries: 250 € for the portion billed directly by the rental company. Some ferries required advance booking and payment at the time of reservation—I’ll note their prices as I go through the story. - Hotels: 4135 €, averaging 188 € per night. We blew past our usual budgets from trips to the U.S., but oh well... - Food: 1570 €, averaging 71 € per day for 4 in a country where everything’s expensive... How’d we manage? We rarely ate out, mostly grocery shopped, and even packed half a suitcase with non-perishables: pasta, rice, a few cans, and even some cured sausage! We also stayed 3 nights at Clarion Collection hotels, where an evening buffet was included in the room rate.

Day 1 Saturday, July 9

Departure from Charles de Gaulle Airport in the afternoon and a direct flight to Oslo. When I booked, the flight was scheduled 2 hours earlier, and I had planned to visit the Norsk Folkemuseum. But the flight was delayed a few weeks before departure, so we decided to head straight to the hotel.

We land at 4:40 PM and are quite surprised by the size of the airport and the organization for retrieving luggage... but the main thing is that our bags are there! We then go to pick up our car from Hertz: it’s super easy since we’re Gold members. Our name is on a display board, and we just need to show Yannick’s ID to leave with the keys to our chariot. We rented a Toyota Corolla Tourer, which was plenty for 4 people.

After about an hour’s drive, we arrive at our hotel in Sandvika. Given the prices in some parts of Norway, this was a great deal for 4: mid-to-low range in price, and—as we’d see the next day—with a gargantuan breakfast buffet, maybe the best of the whole trip!

We set off on foot to stretch our legs after traveling and to get a feel for this new country. The four of us share a giant pizza, which we enjoy by the water (we watch locals swimming in the sea, though the water seems too cold to us), then we head back to the hotel, strolling through residential neighborhoods. Hotel: Thon Hotel Oslofjord in Sandvika 144 € with breakfast Day’s summary: Here we go! !

Day 2 Sunday, July 10

Today's weather doesn't match the travel journal's title... it's going to be beautiful all day! Let's make the most of it!

We're renaming this day "church day": we're off on a 280 km trip that's scheduled to take 4 hours 30 minutes (Norwegians really like 80 km/h speed limits, and the roads can be very narrow). The journey includes four stops to see churches from different eras: two stave churches dating back to 1250 and two churches from 1747 and 1859.

After 1 hour 30 minutes, we reach the stunning Heddal stave church (1250). It's the largest of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. We just admire the exterior but take our time to walk around it.

Continuation of Day 2, Sunday, July 10

Our next stop isn’t very far. It’s a much more recent church that I had spotted along the way. This is the church of Sauland (1859). It has quite an austere style.



We set off again for about fifty minutes before stopping at the church of Høydalsmo (1747), which we found absolutely charming in its bucolic setting, with the cemetery surrounded by greenery and the river below. Not very common, but it’s the spot we chose for our midday picnic. The place is very peaceful.



The stave church of Eidsborg (built between 1250 and 1300) isn’t far away. It’s very different from the one in Heddal with its black color due to the tar applied to protect the wood.



The last part of today’s planned route takes another 1.5 hours. We’re staying tonight in a cabin in Rysstad. It’s not cheap, but there’s not much else in the area! Initially, I had thought about extending the drive to Lysevegen because I had found cheaper accommodation there, but that would have added almost 2 hours to the trip, and in hindsight, we would have missed out on this part of the journey... we’ll see tomorrow that Suleskardveien is truly magnificent, especially in the sunshine! We’re really happy to stop in Rysstad, but... when it comes to food, it’s not going to be easy! There’s a restaurant in our motel, but it’s way overpriced (and fully booked), and there’s nothing for a quick bite in the village. We don’t have a microwave in the room (just a kettle). So we buy some instant noodles—pretty much the only thing we can cook with hot water! And not even a beer to go with this feast since sales are banned on Sundays... the aisle was cordoned off with tape! Hotel: Sølvgarden Motell in Rysstad 210 € with breakfast Day’s summary: A beautiful start, and the weather was perfect too. We’re already in love with Norway!

Hi Peggy,

I told you I’d be your first reader 😉

The opening is promising. I feel like we’re heading toward the Lysefjord—I can’t wait to read the rest!

The owner just canceled my reservation in Stavanger for next summer. He’s taking back his apartment to live there after a “life change,” so I’m looking for something else. If you’ve got a great tip, I’m all ears.

See you soon for the next part 😎

P.S.: On my end, I’ve started the travel journal for our little trip to Iceland. The charm of the Nordic countries is getting to us !

I told you I’d be your first reader 😉

Yep 😉

The opening is promising. I can tell we’re heading toward the Lysefjord—I can’t wait to read the rest!

That’ll be on the agenda for the next day; I’ll try to get to it tonight.

The owner just canceled my reservation in Stavanger for next summer. He’s taking back his apartment to live there due to a “life change,” so I’m looking for something else. If you’ve got a great tip, I’m all ears.

Not sure if it’s a great tip, but we stayed at the Thon Partner Hotel Stavanger Forum. I got the best price by booking directly on the hotel’s website and signing up for their loyalty program.

I’ve started the travel journal for our little trip to Iceland. The charm of the Nordic countries is getting to us!

I’ll go check that out!

Day 3 Monday 11 July

After a good breakfast (though much less hearty than the one the day before in Sandvika), we hit the road again under the sun this morning. The Suleskardveien and Lyseveien are two stunning mountain roads (we saw some similarities with the Beaufortin at times). The road gets really narrow, but there’s hardly anyone around, so we can drive right down the middle—it’s lovely winding through this moorland with all these lakes around us, feeling like we’ve got the landscape all to ourselves!



Our first stop is at a dam—we walk around it and take the chance to say hi to the local sheep!

Next, we stop to admire Børsteinvatnet.



After that, we make another stop at Tjodanpollen. I’d noted this spot as a point of interest, and the view *is* pretty, but everything had been so breathtaking up to that point that we didn’t think it stood out more than the rest.

We *loved* the drive so far, but it’s not over yet! We now arrive at Kjeragcafe, where we get a plunging view down to Lysebotn.

In one of my first versions of the itinerary, I’d planned the hike to Kjeragbolten. But in the end, knowing it’s a very long hike and that we’d preferred to stop in Rysstad the day before, it no longer fit with our schedule. And anyway... no way I’d climb onto that rock—I’d be way too scared! 😛 From Kjeragcafe, the road just keeps descending, and soon we catch our first glimpse of the Lysefjord... it’s so beautiful!

Once at the bottom, we realize Lysebotn is *really* tiny—there’s barely anywhere to grab a bite to eat here! Luckily, we still have some leftovers in the cooler, which we enjoy by the water, admiring a waterfall while waiting for the ferry. We’ve already positioned the car in the line for those with a reservation. Other cars line up behind us, and more join the unreserved line. The ferry arrives on time around 3:30 PM, but it’s a tiny ferry and won’t be able to take everyone. We board in reverse, then leave the vehicle and head upstairs to enjoy the crossing. And just like that, we’re leaving Lysebotn.

Continuation of J3 Monday, July 11

We can go inside the cabin to shelter from the wind, but the weather is nice today. So even if we get whipped by the wind and have to hold on tight at times, we prefer to stay outside. We pass by Kjeragbolten: you have to be quick to capture a picture! Luckily, someone was just standing on it as we passed by!



The ferry makes several stops, including one to serve the small village of Flørli.

We admire waterfalls, high cliffs, and suddenly... oh, but that’s Preikestolen!

After that, the Lysefjord opens up more, the cliffs become fewer, and you can tell we’re nearing the end of the crossing. We pass under a bridge and catch sight of Forsand.



We disembark at Lauvvik after a great hour-long crossing that we loved. It’s now time to get back in the car and head to Stavanger, but first, we make a stop at the Sverd i fjell site. Here’s what I noted in my roadbook: While few remnants of the 872 battle that led to the unification of Norway’s three kingdoms remain, there is still a 7-meter-high carved stone. It was part of a group surrounding a church. The most spectacular monument, however, is the one erected in 1983. Three nearly 10-meter-high bronze swords are planted in the rock, symbolizing the three kings who took part in the battle.

We’re then less than 10 minutes from our hotel, where we check into our room before heading to downtown Stavanger. We take a stroll through Old Stavanger (Gamle Stavanger, with houses dating from the 18th and 19th centuries).

Next, we wander around the city center, but without a real goal. We’re starting to feel tired from the day and hungry... and we end up at a Burger King after circling in front of restaurants that seemed too expensive! We sleep like logs that night!

Ferry: Lysebotn – Lauvvik with Kolumbus (50 €) Hotel: Thon Partner Hotel Stavanger Forum 172 € with breakfast Day’s summary: We really loved the route and the ferry crossing, especially since everything was under the sun. But at the time, it seemed almost normal for the weather to be nice—it’s only later that we realized how lucky we were!

Good evening Peggy,

The cruise on the Lysefjord is tempting. We didn’t plan on doing it because it would take us out of our way, but it’s making us think!

Kjeragbolten isn’t in our plans either. We have to make choices, and that hike seems long to me. Like you, I can’t even imagine climbing onto the rock, and Laurent gets vertigo, so it’s not for him. On the other hand, we’ve planned to do the Preikestolen hike.

For our accommodation in Stavanger, I found another Airbnb. I prefer apartments over hotels for the extra space. I haven’t booked yet—I’m giving myself a little time to think—but it’s going fast! !

Day 4 Tuesday, July 12

Today’s plan was a must-see in southern Norway: the Preikestolen hike! We had planned to linger a bit longer in Stavanger before slowly making our way to our accommodation in Jørpeland, then heading out in the mid-afternoon to take advantage of the evening light. But the clouds caught up with us this morning, and rain is forecast for later in the day, so we change our plans.

We hit the road after a good breakfast and arrive at the parking lot 40 minutes later. It’s already pretty full!

The hike isn’t very long (8 km) and there isn’t too much elevation gain (400 m), but it’s our first one this year, and I need time to get my legs back in shape... so of course Yannick and Hugo reach the top faster than I do! 😛 Calista likes walking on her own and stays between us.



A few narrow sections before reaching the platform...



...and here I am! It’s really beautiful but also super crowded... The four of us regroup, chat, take some photos... and completely forget to climb a bit higher for the view from above!

The descent is a bit tough for me—I quickly feel my knee. The soles and trekking poles aren’t enough to make up for the lack of training... and I’m a little worried about Trolltunga in a few days. But hey, we’re not there yet! I managed to make it back to the parking lot, and we can head to the hotel. We stop by the store first to grab some snacks, then rest a bit in the room.

Since the rain hasn’t arrived yet, we walk from the hotel to the island across from Jørpeland. We think we’ll see lots of wooden sculptures along the way. A nice throne where Hugo strikes a pose.

But after that, either the sculptures are really worn out or just don’t exist... We walk the whole island hoping to find more, but the trail ends up being disappointing. We added another 3 to 4 km to the distance we’d already covered this morning, but it was almost flat, so no problem there!

For dinner, we don’t go far—the Villa Rosehagen restaurant is almost across the street and has great reviews. Its terrace has a beautiful view when the weather’s nice, but today we eat inside, and the cozy atmosphere makes it feel almost like autumn! It’s our first restaurant in Norway, and we were expecting high prices, but when we open the menu, we still get a shock!! All the meat dishes are way too expensive... so the four of us opt for vegetarian pasta and ask for a carafe of water. We get away with 1000 NOK, and honestly, I think it was the best veggie pasta I’ve ever had! So we’re thrilled with our first restaurant experience!

The rain finally arrives—it’s pouring all night!

Preikestolen parking: 250 NOK Hotel: Verkshotellet in Jørpeland 155 € with breakfast Day’s summary: Easy on the driving, not too many kilometers covered. The Preikestolen hike is a must despite the crowds, but we’re still hoping to find other hikes where we’ll have a bit more space to ourselves...

Hi Peggy,

Ah, here we go, diving into the heart of Norwegian highlights! 🙂

We hit the road after a good breakfast and arrive at the parking lot 40 minutes later. It’s already pretty full!

Do you remember what time you started the hike? We’ll see depending on the weather, but I’ve noted to start either really early (no later than 7 AM) or around 2:30/3 PM to avoid the crowds. We’ll be coming from Stavanger, so we’ll have about a 45-minute drive to the trailhead. Did you find a spot in the main parking lot, or did you have to use the secondary one farther away?

The hike isn’t very long (8 km) and there isn’t too much elevation gain (400 m), but it’s the first one this year and I need time to get my legs back... so of course Yannick and Hugo reach the destination faster than me! 😛 Calista likes walking on her own and stays between us.

The main thing is to finish without hurting yourself and enjoy the scenery at your own pace. Like you, I often walk alone at the back because the boys and Laurent are much faster and take fewer photo breaks. Sometimes it annoys me when I struggle to find the path and can’t see them anymore to figure out which way to go!

Hugo has really changed since Yellowstone! He’s a man now

we chat, take photos... and completely forget to go up a bit more for the view from above!

Oh no! In the AllTrails app (my go-to for hikes), I’ve saved the loop that, from what I understand, goes up to the summit overlooking Preikestolen.

We got out of there for 100 NOK

Did you forget a zero? 😉

and honestly, I think those were the best veggie pasta of my life! So we were thrilled with our first restaurant!

No doubt—100 NOK is a steal!

The Preikestolen hike is a must despite the crowds, but we still hope to do others where we’ll be a bit more alone...

That’s the price of popularity—and of hikes that aren’t too difficult. But when I see photos from summer with the line to get onto Trolltunga’s tongue, I realize even tough hikes don’t scare people off.

Can’t wait for the rest! 🙂

Ah, now we're getting into the heart of the matter and the Norwegian highlights 🙂

One of the highlights, but personally, I preferred the day before with the Lyseveien hike and then the ferry on the Lysefjord 😉

Do you remember around what time you started the hike? We’ll see depending on the weather, but I’ve noted to start either very early (no later than 7 AM) or around 2:30/3 PM to avoid the crowds. We’ll be coming from Stavanger, so we’ll have about a 45-minute drive to get to the start of the hike. Did you find a spot in the main parking lot or the secondary one, which is farther away?

I didn’t note what time we started the hike, but the first photo is from 10:36 AM... so I’d say around 10:00 AM 😇. We were also coming from Stavanger, and there was breakfast at the hotel, so no desire to leave at the crack of dawn... We found a spot in the main parking lot.

Hugo has changed so much since Yellowstone! He’s a man now

And that was two years ago... since then, he’s gone through a long hair and beard phase to follow his school’s traditions

In the AllTrails app (my go-to for hikes), I’ve saved the loop that, from what I understand, goes past the summit overlooking Preikestolen.

We use AllTrails a lot too. But this time, we didn’t bring the trail map: there’s no way to get lost, so we figured we didn’t need it!

Did you forget a zero? 😉

You’re absolutely right! I’ll go fix that 😉

Day 5 Wednesday, July 13

This morning, we had a long drive planned, but we thought it would go by quickly while admiring the stunning landscapes... except the weather from last night carried over, and the views were completely obscured.

We hit the road for about an hour until we reach Hjelmeland, where we board our first "normal" ferry (not like the one in Lysefjord that required advance booking). The crossing is simple—we drive on, don’t even notice the license plate being scanned, and just continue to the other side.

About an hour and a half between Nesvik and Flesefossen. What luck! A ray of sunshine finally peeks through—perfect timing!



One last half-hour drive before arriving in Røldal. We grab a few groceries at the village’s mini-supermarket, then drive another 3 km since our place is a small apartment on the other side of the lake. It promised great views and a nice garden... but we unload our stuff in the rain, so relaxing on the terrace while admiring the scenery will have to wait for another time!

After a good homemade pasta meal and a few rounds of Mario Kart with Calista, the rain stopped. Yannick goes for a run, and the kids and I take a walk around the village to admire the Røldal Stave Church (built between 1200 and 1250).

Accommodation: Odlandsvegen Basement Appartment in Røldal 149 € Day’s summary: A transition day, I’d say... but I hope it doesn’t last too long!

J6 Thursday, July 14

A day that started in the rain, so we thought we wouldn’t have any more luck than the day before... but in the end, it wasn’t a problem for seeing waterfalls!

From Røldal, we had about a 30-minute drive to Espelandsfossen and the amazing Låtefossen. Espelandsfossen is pretty...

But it’s at Låtefossen where we spend a lot of time, despite the drizzle and the other tourists who are there in large numbers. This waterfall is magnetic, mesmerizing... you can feel the raw power of the elements unleashed.

We stop 5 minutes further on to admire Vidfossen: you could say the owners have a waterfall in their backyard!

Continuing from Day 6, Thursday, July 14

We’re now heading to the Buerbreen parking lot. Probably a victim of its own success, the price has gone up compared to what I’d noted. But it’s no longer raining, and the hike is described as really fun, so we’re not complaining! And sure enough, this hike is super enjoyable—crossing streams on bridges and walkways, climbing rocks with the help of ropes or ladders...



There were quite a few people at the end, and the weather still wasn’t great, but we had a blast! Everyone stops here—I can’t remember if a further walkway was damaged or if continuing wasn’t recommended due to the weather...

Now it’s time to head back down. At the bottom, exhausted, we treat ourselves to a little drink break before hitting the road to Tyssedal.

The accommodations I’d found in Odda were expensive, and here, by renting two rooms, it worked out like a small apartment. Actually, if you only rent one room, you might end up sharing the kitchen with other travelers. But in our case, we had one room for us, one for the kids, and the kitchen in between. Plus, a great view—though I don’t even have a photo of it!

Buerbreen parking: 185 NOK Hotel: Slottet Apartments in Tyssedal 208 € Day’s summary: Låtefossen enchanted us, and then the hike to the Buer Glacier was amazing. Best day ever!

Hi Peggy,

That hike to Buarbreen sounds great. I’ve noted it down as a backup plan in case the weather doesn’t allow us to do the Trolltunga hike. But seeing your photos, I realize it’s not really a viable option in bad weather—the sections with ropes must get slippery when it rains. How long did the round trip take you?

I’m a bit unsure about our itinerary... I’ve planned to do in one day what you did in two! We’d leave from Stavanger and sleep a little north of Tyssedal in the evening. If we only make a few stops along the way, like at Latefossen, does that sound doable to you?

Hello Peggy, What a stunning start with those landscapes and waterfalls under a beautiful blue sky—or almost! So far, your trip looks a lot like what I’d planned for last summer before we ended up choosing Iceland instead. It’s tough deciding on Nordic "nature" destinations when the final experience depends so much on the weather, which is often unpredictable. Norway won’t be on our list for the next few years—we’re too afraid of being disappointed after the raw power of Iceland’s elements: volcanoes, massive waterfalls, glaciers, and all...

Hi Virginie,

That hike to Buarbreen sounds great. I’ve noted it down as a backup plan in case the weather didn’t let us do the Trolltunga hike.

For us, it wasn’t just a backup—we really wanted to do it, and we don’t regret it at all 😉

Looking at your photos, I realize it’s not really an option in bad weather. The sections with ropes must get slippery when it rains.

Well, I don’t know what it’d be like in *real* rain… but you know, as far as bad weather goes… It had only rained the day before and overnight! The paths were muddy in places, but the rocks were fine with the ropes and good shoes—it worked out well 😉

How long did the round trip take you?

I’d planned for 3 hours, and that’s about how long it took us.

I’m a bit unsure about our itinerary… I’ve planned to do in one day what you did in two! We’d leave from Stavanger to sleep a little north of Tyssedal in the evening. With just a few stops along the way, like at Latefossen, does that sound doable?

I see it’s just under 4 hours via the E39 and then E134, or a little over 4 hours if you go through Røldal like we did. So yeah, it’s doable (as long as you don’t take too many breaks 😛).

Thanks for your message, Guillaume. Iceland’s been catching my eye for a while too, so we’ll get there eventually... but I’ll need to read plenty of travel journals first to get familiar with all those strange names 😉

Since I haven’t set foot there yet, I’m not sure if Norway is a step below or not... but I’d really love to go back to Norway too !

Hi, Just my two cents: Norway and Iceland aren’t comparable at all. We spent 5 weeks in Iceland with our camper van and have taken several trips to Norway. To me, they’re two completely different countries.

Hi Peggy,

Thanks for the start of your travel journal—I’m so glad to be back on the forum, I missed it! Norway is a country my husband and I are really tempted to visit. The kids have grown up so much! For us, it’ll be Florida to celebrate our retirement with our grown-up daughters between May and June next year. Looking forward to reading more from you, Hélène

Hi, Just my personal take: Norway and Iceland aren’t comparable at all. We spent 5 weeks in Iceland with our camper van and have taken several trips to Norway. To me, they’re two completely different countries.

Hi Antoinette, So glad to read your take! 😊

Hi Hélène,

Thanks for the start of your travel journal and so glad to see you back here—the forum was missed!

So glad to be back here too! I missed the forum as well.

For us, it’ll be Florida to celebrate our retirement with our grown-up daughters between May and June next year.

Retirement already? That’s awesome! You’ll get to enjoy even more trips now 😉 Have a great future trip to Florida!

I just remembered you were supposed to go to Florida during COVID—did you end up going later, or will next year’s trip be the first time?

J7 Friday, July 15

It’s finally the day of THE hike! I was worried on Tuesday about my knee after the hike to Preikestolen, and I’m still a bit anxious this morning about my physical abilities, but I’m also really motivated. I tell myself that worst-case scenario, I won’t go all the way... but I don’t want to think about that possibility right now. We’ve given ourselves the best chance of making it by shortening the hike as much as possible—meaning we booked Parking 3 at Mågelitopp several months in advance. We have a little half-hour drive from Tyssedal; we have to pay the toll road on-site and show the reservation to access P3, and then we’re off—we can start!

Don’t ask me what time... I don’t remember... but the first photo was taken around 8:30 AM. The climbs and flatter sections follow one after another.

Hugo walks like a mountain goat and stops every now and then to wait for us. Calista is struggling a bit, and I’m struggling even more, but by walking at my own pace, I manage. And Yannick tries to act as a buffer between Hugo up front and the girls behind!

The weather is gloomy, and we even get a few raindrops at one point.

With the fog, we wonder what we’ll even be able to see at the top! Maybe we’ll have walked 10 km just to end up in front of a blocked view!

Around 10:30 AM, we start to catch glimpses of Lake Ringedal.

The view is stunning when you see the whole lake. Okay, the color is a bit too saturated, but that’s my phone automatically doing HDR... no big deal, I think it looks amazing like this.

We keep moving forward, and when there are only 2 or 3 km left, the guys leave us behind. They arrive at the site about twenty minutes before Calista and me. That gives them time to queue up while I catch up, and once I’m there, all I have to do is grab the camera while they strike a pose!

The line is now a little shorter than when they arrived, and there must be about a ten-minute wait... but it’s freezing cold! We didn’t realize how cold it was while walking—maybe because we were moving, or maybe because we’re more exposed to the wind up there... in any case, our little jackets aren’t very suitable, and it’s barely bearable. So Calista and I decide to skip the photo, eat quickly, and less than half an hour after arriving, we prefer to head back the other way!

The descent is a bit tricky at times for my knee, but I take breaks, stretch, walk backward... and I finally make it to the bottom!

After a well-deserved rest in our rooms, we go eat at Glacier restaurant in Odda. Okay, it’s not fine dining, but it does the job!

Toll road + parking Mågelitopp: 200 NOK + 600 NOK Hotel: Slottet Apartments in Tyssedal 208 € Day’s summary: The comment I posted on Facebook that day sums it all up, I think: I did it!! Trolltunga and its 20 km! I’ve been walking like a grandma ever since, but the view at the top was worth all the effort!

Hello

Yeah, as you said...

That’s right, we were supposed to go in the summer of 2020, but everything was canceled. So this is our first trip to Florida! We’re staying for three weeks

Hello Peggy

That’s it, it’s THE hike day! I was worried on Tuesday about my knee after the hike to Preikestolen, and I’m still a bit anxious this morning about my physical abilities, but I’m also really motivated. I tell myself that at worst, I won’t go all the way to the end...

.

I can totally relate

We gave ourselves the best chance of making it by shortening the hike as much as possible—that is, by booking Parking 3 at Mågelitopp several months in advance.

That’s exactly what we’re planning to do too, to skip the tedious stretch between P2 and P3. Did you book it a long time in advance?

We keep moving forward, and when there are only 2 or 3 km left, the guys take off. They arrive on site about twenty minutes before Calista and me. That gives them time to queue up while I catch up, and once I’m there, all I have to do is grab the camera while they strike a pose!

That’s such a great trick! I think I’ll adopt it. Like you, I usually arrive last while the guys race ahead. I’ll also remember to pack a puffy jacket in my backpack. I’d already read somewhere that it can get cold up there even in summer.

Your photos look amazing, by the way 🙂 And congrats on completing that tough hike. I hope I can do it too!

Day 8 Saturday, July 16

No hiking today to rest our legs. Our first destination is the Vøringfossen waterfalls, an hour and a half drive from Tyssedal. We spend a little time exploring the different walkways to see all the viewpoints. They’re really impressive.



We took a detour to see the waterfalls, so we head back the way we came. On the way down, we pass the Norsk Natursenter in Øvre Eidfjord. Nothing to see there—the center is closed—but there’s a little café across the street that catches our eye for lunch!

Once we’ve eaten, we set off again with our next stop in sight within an hour: Tvindefossen waterfall. But after about half an hour, we see a sign for Skjervsfossen. It’s a waterfall I hadn’t come across in my planning and hadn’t included in our itinerary. Yannick asks if he should turn around, but I see on Google Maps that the road looks a bit long, so I say no. Still, this surprise waterfall makes me curious, and I look it up online (I’m so glad our phone plan works in Norway just like it does in France—I can’t just look up info like this last-minute when we’re in the U.S.). And there it is—yes! We *have* to go see it! Luckily, we don’t need to turn around since there’s a second entrance. We first see the waterfall from above, then we take the stairs and path down to the base of the falls. It’s massive, breathtaking—I can’t take my eyes off it! This will be my favorite of the day, and it would’ve been a real shame to miss it!

After leaving, we finally head toward Tvindefossen. It’s different—also very beautiful—and we even get a ray of sunshine. But there are more people, and it doesn’t have the same power as Skjervsfossen, so we still prefer the latter.

Continuation of Day 8, Saturday, July 16

We’re now heading to Undredal, a tiny village at the end of the world. Along the way, I’d noted the option to stop at the Stalheim Hotel to enjoy a great view of the valley from their terrace, but I wasn’t sure if we’d have time. The question became moot since the road was closed. We also won’t be going to the Stegastein viewpoint—since we had a ferry reservation at 6 PM, we had to choose between the village and the viewpoint. We’re greeted by goats in Undredal.

We walk around the village and admire the smallest still-active stave church in Norway (built in 1147).

The village is super cute—there’s not much to do, but the scenery is really beautiful and peaceful. I’d happily spend a night or two here with a kayak trip on the Aurlandsfjord.

We head back toward Gudvangen and are ready to board the ferry a little before 6 PM. We’ll cross the Nærøyfjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, to reach Kaupanger.

The fjord is stunning (it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, after all), but overall, we enjoyed this crossing less than the one on the Lysefjord. Maybe it was the later time (the fjord was quickly in shadow) or the weather (we were cold and didn’t stay on deck, instead admiring the scenery from inside). Either way, we were a bit disappointed given the price of the crossing.

We reach Kaupanger around 8:30 PM and quickly head to our accommodation since it’s only a 5-minute walk from the dock.

Our cabin is so cute! We have dinner in the room, then take a little walk around while a load of laundry runs.

Ferry: Gudvangen – Kaupanger with Fjordtours.com (150 €) Hotel: Vesterland Feriepark in Kaupanger, 89 € instead of 180 € (used a free night from Hotels.com) Day’s summary: 4 hours of driving today, but it didn’t really feel like it with all the stops we made. It was a really great day!

Sorry I didn’t reply to your message earlier...

That’s exactly what we’re planning to do too, to avoid the stretch between P2 and P3 that seems tedious. Did you book a long time in advance?

Honestly, I don’t remember exactly when it was, but I think I kept an eye on when reservations opened and booked quickly. After that, I know there were still spots available for a while, but at least for us, it was done!

And congrats on managing to complete that tough hike. I hope I can do it too!

I don’t think it’s tough for everyone... but I have some chronic pain (soles of my feet, knee, groin, gluteal pain), so every hike becomes complicated... especially when it’s 20 km ;)

J9 Sunday, July 17

Back to the travel journal title—it’s light rain when we wake up! Not too bad, though, and it doesn’t stop us from admiring the stave church in Kaupanger (1140). It’s set in a really beautiful location.

I’ve planned a first stop in about 50 minutes to see "a glacial tongue and its small bluish lake": Bøyabreen. Since the rain has turned into pea soup, we’re sure we won’t see much… but I still want to stop anyway—it’ll make for a good break. Wow, it’s freezing! And sure enough, we can’t see much…

We hit the road again, and despite the sky full of heavy clouds, the rain stops. The fog in places and the big clouds make the atmosphere feel mysterious.

We can have a picnic without getting soaked!

The goal for this afternoon was to take the cable car from Loen and do a few hikes at the top. But given the overcast sky and the price it costs, we already sense we’ll skip the ride…

Following Day 9, Sunday, July 17

Once we arrived in Loen, the sky was still just as cloudy, and it wasn’t worth paying 555 NOK per person—so we looked on the bright side, it saves money! ;) We stayed on solid ground to explore the Loen Valley all the way to the Kjenndal Glacier. I chose Loen Valley over Olden Valley because I’d read it was wilder. I can’t say if that’s true since we didn’t do both…

We followed the Lovatnet, forgetting everything we might have seen if we’d gone higher up—this valley is absolutely stunning! 🤩

We wanted to stop every 10 meters, but the road was too narrow—so we stopped as often as we could, sometimes even in the middle of the road when there was no one around.

At the end of the road, we put 70 NOK in an envelope for parking (no checks, just trusting people’s honesty) and then a short 400-meter walk for this view of the Kjenndalsbreen.

On the way back, we got even more stunning views…

Once out of the valley, we had just under 40 minutes left to drive to Nygård Camping, where we’d booked a cabin. It was super cozy. The campground managers offered takeaway pizzas, so we got two large ones to share between the four of us—with even some leftovers for tomorrow!

Kjenndalsbreen parking: 70 NOK Accommodation: Nygård Camping in Folva 175 € Day’s summary: We were blown away by the Loen Valley, so no regrets about not taking the cable car—and it’s a great excuse to come back!

I’m reading Lorelou Desjardins’ book Au coin du fjord. She wrote this: « those few minutes or hours or days of sunshine, when the different colors of the fjords reveal themselves and the mountains shed their cloak of fog, are worth all the rain in the world. »

Even under the clouds, you can see the beauty of the Loen Valley and Lake Lovatnet.

For our part, we chose to stay in the Olden Valley. I was blown away by a cabin with a view of the lake and just had to have it! But we’re planning to go for a walk by Lake Lovatnet, which seems like a must-do.

Hi Peggy,

You did a great job writing this beautiful travel journal because the Norwegian landscapes are still the same two years later. After three trips to Norway, I’m discovering new places that I’m noting down for, hopefully, my next trip ;).

Thanks for this inspiring travel journal. Kudos for the Troll Tongue hike—I read it’s pretty tough.

I’d started planning a trip to "Southern Fjords and Lofoten," but since we have to spend a week in Denmark first with our kids (we’re treating them to the vacation—young couple, 30 & 28), the budget won’t stretch that far. So in June, we’ll settle for a week in Denmark with the kids (they’ll fly back to Belgium) and a Kattegat tour for the two of us (Sweden, Oslo, and Norway’s south coast), returning to Denmark via Jutland.

That said, your journal really interests me. When we went to Iceland, I figured the weather could’ve been rough, so I had a Plan B for each day. In the end, the skies were pretty generous. But in Norway, in the middle of the fjords, I’m not sure what Plan B would even look like... Did you have any backup ideas?

Hi Virginie,

I’m reading Lorelou Desjardins’ book Au coin du fjord. She wrote this: « the few minutes or hours or days of sunshine, when the different colors of the fjords reveal themselves and the mountains shed their cloak of fog, are worth all the rain in the world. »

I’m not familiar with that title, so I just read an article about Lorelou Desjardins. It definitely sounds interesting—thanks for the reading suggestion!

For our part, we chose to stay in the Olden valley. I was blown away by a cabin with a lake view and just had to book it! But we’re planning to go for a hike near Lovatnet, which seems like a must-do.

I can totally picture the view—no wonder you loved it! 😊

Hi Alix, Thanks for your message. It’s great if I could give you a few ideas after three trips! 😊

Hi Sylvie, Thanks for your message!

So in June, we’ll settle for a week in Denmark (with our kids flying back to Belgium) and a Kattegat tour for two (Sweden, Oslo, and the southern coast of Norway), returning to Denmark via Jutland.

You’ll still have a great trip anyway—your planning will come in handy later! ;)

On the other hand, in Norway, in the middle of the fjords, I don’t really see any Plan B options... Had you thought about that?

No, we hadn’t thought about Plan Bs. We often got rain, but we made do. And I think we appreciated the landscapes and our luck of being there on sunny days even more!

Day 10 Monday, July 18

To get to Geiranger from Folva, there are two options: either take the tunnel, which is faster, or make the detour via Gamle Strynefjellsvegen, an old mountain road only open in the summer. This road crosses a glacial valley and is stunning—so of course, we chose the second option!

Excerpt from my roadbook: Built in 1895 almost entirely by hand and cleared of snow with shovels until 1950, Road 258 is very narrow and more like a trail. It starts in the valley with a cascading torrent, then winds up in switchbacks before following a high glacial valley for about 20 km. It’s a feast for the eyes.

We reach Grotli after a little over an hour of pure enchantment. It would’ve been a real shame to take the tunnel!

After that, I’d noted the Dalsnibba viewpoint, but since we checked the weather beforehand and there’s fog, it’s not worth going up and paying 250 NOK.

We continue to Flydalsjuvet, where the view overlooks the Geirangerfjord and its massive cruise ships.



No stop once we’re down below—we only saw tourist shops.

We head back up the other side via a road with hairpin turns (Ørnevegen, or the Eagle Road) and take one last photo before continuing to Eidsdal to catch the ferry.

We drive past strawberry fields for a while (Norwegian strawberries are so good! 🍓). Then we approach Trollstigen (the Troll’s Path).

Continuation of Day 10, Monday, July 18

Stop at the viewpoint over Trollstigen.





Final stretch of road to Åndalsnes. We’re going to pick up our cabin. It’s payable on-site, and luckily I had the price in mind because when I go to enter the code, I realize the amount on the payment terminal is a bit higher than expected (about fifty euros more, in fact). The lady explains they’ve raised their rates, but since we booked well in advance at a lower price, she doesn’t make a fuss and re-enters the correct amount. Once inside the cabin, it’s so spacious (we have two separate bedrooms) and well-equipped that we understand why they raised the prices—and we appreciate even more that we paid less!

The weather isn’t great, but it’s not raining, so we set off on a hike. The plan: a solid climb of 500 m in elevation gain over 2 km to reach the Rampestreken viewpoint. We start on metal grating, then it’s a succession of rocks and roots all the way to the top. You’ve got to be careful, too, because the ground is damp and the roots are slippery.



I obviously get left behind, and I arrive at the summit well after the boys, but the view at the top makes you forget all the effort!





For the descent, I know my knee’s going to struggle with the elevation change. So Yannick heads off with the kids and takes them back to the cabin so they can shower. I take my time, and I arrive at the bottom just as he comes back to get me!

Accommodation: Hytteutleie in Åndalsnes 126 € Day’s summary: An amazing day between Gamle Strynefjellsvegen, Trollstigen, and Rampestreken! We’ve soaked up even more breathtaking views, and we’ll be dreaming about them tonight!🌙

We’re finally extending our trip by a week! Originally, we were doing Oslo > Kristiansand. I rethought the trip in reverse since I really want to end with Under and take the ferry to Denmark, then stop in Skagen! Now it’ll be Oslo > Åndalsnes (perfect timing!) and then we’ll head back down toward Geiranger, the glaciers, Flam, Bergen, and Stavanger. Obviously, we won’t do too much hiking except for Preikestolen. In Åndalsnes, I saw there’s a cable car to go up and enjoy the view—maybe it’s brand new?

We’re finally extending by a week! Originally we were doing Oslo > Kristiansand. I rethought the trip in reverse since I really want to end at Under and take the ferry to Denmark and stop in Skagen! Now it’ll be Oslo > Åndalsnes (perfect timing!) and then we’ll head back down toward Geiranger, the glaciers, Flam, Bergen, and Stavanger. Obviously, we won’t do too much hiking except for Preikestolen.

It’s coming together!

In Åndalsnes, I saw there’s a cable car to go up and enjoy the view. Maybe it’s brand new?

We saw it afterward! No big deal, I was happy I got to do it on foot.

Day 11 Tuesday, July 19

Beautiful sunshine when we woke up! The view from the cabin is even nicer, and we take advantage of the wooden table to have breakfast outside.

Once we’ve packed up, we hit the road west: this morning’s plan is to visit Ålesund, sometimes considered the most beautiful city in Norway. Excerpt from my travel journal: Like many Norwegian cities, most of Ålesund’s buildings were made of wood. And, like many of them, it was prone to frequent fires. On January 23, 1904, a fire broke out, fanned by strong winds, and destroyed almost the entire city. The inhabitants had to flee in the middle of the night in extreme urgency. 800 houses were reduced to ashes, and 10,000 people were left homeless. France sent the Cassini (a warship) to help the residents. German Emperor Wilhelm II, who often spent his vacations in Ålesund, heard about the disaster that had struck his favorite holiday spot. At his own expense, he sent several thousand German craftsmen and around fifty architects, who rebuilt the city in stone and brick in the then-popular Art Nouveau style. The buildings featured numerous turrets, spires, and ornate facades—the whole ensemble is distinctive and almost unique in the world.

We stroll through the city with our noses in the air, admiring the beautiful facades,

then, of course, we climb the 418 steps leading to the Fjellstue, a well-known viewpoint over the city.

After eating at Egon restaurant (the pizza buffet is reasonably priced), we take another short walk to the church before turning back toward the car.



We won’t say we didn’t like it, but visiting this city left us a bit unsettled... we didn’t really feel like we were in Norway, but more like in Germany or Switzerland.

After about an hour’s drive, we arrive in Vestnes, ready to board the ferry that takes us across to Molde. Then another 45 minutes on the road, and we reach our hotel by the Atlantic. We rented a really nice cabin—a living room, two bedrooms, all very comfortable!



Since we’re not too tired from the day yet, Yannick goes for a run while Calista and I take a walk by the water. The place is very peaceful, and we’re treated to some beautiful evening light.



Hotel: Hustadvika Havhotell 196 € with breakfast Day’s summary: we stay true to ourselves and prefer nature over cities... we felt more at home in the middle of nowhere near the hotel than in Ålesund.

Yes, it's coming together, and I'm really happy about it because the south coast route that was mentioned as scenic in "Visit Norway" seemed a bit dreary and monotonous to me, with endless beaches lined with dunes (just like back home!). But a little further on, I found some charming little ports via Google Maps—sort of mini fishing fjords—and I hadn’t seen them mentioned anywhere. Places like Nesvåg, Sogndalstrand, or Vinterstø, for example.

Hi Sylvie,

On the south coast, I also noted Jøssingfjord (houses under the cliff) and the Lindesnes lighthouse. Might be worth adding to your list ;)

Hi Peggy,

Did you get lost somewhere between Molde and the Lofoten? 😄

Your latest photos of Molde are gorgeous with that end-of-day light. On the other hand, I’d noted Ålesund as a Plan B if we had bad weather preventing us from hiking around Geiranger, but it seems kinda dreary as a town. Maybe I’ll try to find a Plan C! !

Thanks Virginie! The houses under the cliff: yeah, I’d seen those. Actually, there’s quite a bit to see in that area, which doesn’t seem too touristy after all. Lindesnes Lighthouse: Yep, it’s on the list—especially since we’ll be sleeping nearby and having dinner at the famous Under restaurant! 😉

Your latest photos of Molde are stunning with that end-of-day light.

Thanks! But the photos weren’t taken in Molde—they were taken at the hotel, pretty close to the Atlantic Road.

On the other hand, I’d noted Ålesund as a Plan B if we get bad weather preventing us from hiking around Geiranger, but it seems a bit dull as a town. Maybe I’ll try to find a Plan C!

We didn’t love it either, and if we did it again, I don’t think I’d make the detour to Ålesund. But hey, different strokes for different folks...

Day 12 Wednesday, July 20

To start the day, we follow in James Bond’s footsteps on the Atlantic Ocean Road (a scenic route with 8 distinctive bridges connecting 17 islets). Okay... to be honest, I have to say I think this road is a bit overrated!

Next, we head north toward the Lofoten Islands. As mentioned earlier, it’ll take us 3 days to reach Reine: we know we’ll be driving a lot, but we still want to enjoy the journey along the way! We’ve got a 6.5-hour drive planned today, with a stop in the lovely city of Trondheim.

First stop: the Tyholttårnet, a panoramic tower on the outskirts of the city. This tower lets us kill two birds with one stone: we enjoy a great view of Trondheim while filling up at the Egon restaurant’s buffet.

Once we’re full, we head into the city center. We’re surprised by the traffic—or lack of it: there’s hardly anyone on the streets, even though this is the third-largest city in the country!

We leave the car after paying the parking meter by card. We cross the Bakke Bru (bridge) over the Nidelva River and spot Nidaros Cathedral in the distance.

The streets in the city center are colorful.

We pass by the royal residence (Stiftsgården), which is the largest wooden palace in all of Scandinavia.

Then we cross Torvet, the market square.