Bangkok - Chiang Mai - Koh Samui in summer (page 1 of 4)

Hi everyone, I’ve spent two solid months reading the Lonely Planet and pretty much every post about Thailand here, plus French and English blogs. Now I’d love to get your expert opinions on our itinerary. We’re heading off in August 2025 with our 7-year-old daughter. We only have a maximum of three weeks off, and I’m keeping an eye on flight prices before booking (1400 € per person really stings 😕). So here’s what I’ve planned—let me know if you spot any major issues or if I’ve been way too "optimistic."

D1 - Arrival in Bangkok / rest, quick visit, overnight stay D2 - More temple visits, etc. D3 - Morning flight to Chiang Mai D4 - More Chiang Mai sightseeing D5 - Day trip to Chiang Rai (guided tour to book: blue and white temple), return to Chiang Mai late in the evening D6 - More Chiang Mai visits / Elephant Nature Park in the afternoon D7 - Morning flight to Koh Samui, sightseeing D8 to D10 - More Koh Samui visits D11 to D13 - Ferry to Koh Phangan D14 to D15 - Ferry to Koh Tao D16 - Return to Koh Samui, then flight to Bangkok D17 - Day trip to Ayutthaya, return to Bangkok in the evening D18 - Flight back to France :(

I know a lot of you recommend heading straight to Chiang Mai to recover from the international flight, but my partner and I NEVER sleep on planes (personally, I’ve been flying to Taiwan since I was little and have never slept more than an hour on a 14-hour flight...), so it’s essential for us to rest upon arrival . That’s also why I opted for domestic flights instead of the sleeper train—I know we’d lose over 10 hours and wouldn’t be able to rest properly in those conditions. And I’m sure you’ll also say BKK > North > South is too much for three weeks, but I really want to see as much as possible. Given how much the flights will cost, I’m not sure when we’ll be able to come back 🏴‍☠️.

So, questions: 1. Since we’ll only be in Bangkok for a maximum of two nights and need to easily reach the airport with luggage (and a child), which neighborhood should we prioritize? We’d love to experience the evening vibe of Asian night markets, ideally within walking distance of the hotel or just a few metro stops away. I’ve looked at Chinatown, but the BTS seems far... Should we go for somewhere near BTS Saphan Taksin or BTS Krungthonburi? But is the area lively in the evening with food courts, etc.? We’d also like to treat ourselves to a hotel with a pool.

2. Have we planned too many days in the south? Should I skip Koh Tao and just do Koh Samui + Koh Phangan? My partner and daughter aren’t strong swimmers, so we’re looking for beautiful beaches without too much current. Crowded beaches don’t bother us—we just want stunning turquoise waters without killer waves . Going all the way to Koh Tao and then back to Koh Samui to catch the flight to Bangkok seems too stressful. Is it still possible these days (I haven’t seen any recent posts on this) to head to Koh Samui in August and decide on the spot how many nights to spend in Koh Phangan or Koh Tao based on how we feel, booking hotels as we go? Or is that too risky?

If you have any better suggestions for fitting all this in while reducing internal flights, I’m all ears for your great tips

Hi,

- Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai is a 7-hour round-trip bus ride. Trying to do it with visits included in the same day is unreasonable.

And you’ll also say BKK>North>South is too much for 3 weeks

I see 2.5 weeks of travel, not 3. It won’t be the entire North and South but a very small part of each, so it’s doable in 2.5 weeks. What’s surprising, though, is the large number of days dedicated to beach time compared to the North—it gives the impression that your stop in Chiang Mai is just there as a justification.

Did we plan too many days in the South?

See my two remarks above.

flight tickets (...) (1400 € per person stings 😕).

After a quick search, I see that for a Saturday departure* in August and a mid-week return, prices are more around 1100 euros. It’s still expensive but not as bad as 1400 €. Also, kids under 12 sometimes get a small discount—add that criterion when choosing your airline.

* Departing and/or returning on a weekend is usually more expensive.

Congrats!

You’ve planned the most insane itinerary I’ve seen so far!

That said, reading your post, I get why.

Do yourself a favor: skip Chiang Rai—it won’t add anything for you—and drop either Samui or Phangan.

Use those extra days in the Chiang Mai area, where there are so many diverse activities to try.

Hi there, I’ve been to Thailand a dozen or so times, from north to south, with or without kids, little ones or teens... in December, January, or February, so during the cool season, traveling by domestic flights, train, big buses, death-defying minibuses, taxis, and more. Your itinerary has way too many places and therefore too many transport legs—it’s a huge time-waster. If you’re stopping in Bangkok on arrival, you won’t do much on the first day because you’ll be exhausted. On the second day, visit the Grand Palace—even the kids love it because it’s bursting with color and full of massive, fantastical creatures. If you’re not too tired, check out Wat Pho.





On the second day, you can take a river bus to the end of the line and see life along the banks and the traffic on the river. You can stop to visit Wat Pho if you didn’t see it the day before—the giant reclining golden Buddha is unforgettable.

On the other side of the river, stop at Wat Arun, which lines the waterfront.



If you’re new to Thailand, what really matters is the change of scenery. In the north, Chiang Mai is enough. It’s a big city that feels familiar in some ways, but if you stay in the "square" (the historic center within the moat), you’ll have 40 temples within walking distance, including some of the most beautiful ones.













The area is really lively—sure, there are other tourists, but also lots of Thai people who come to pray at the temples, and plenty of monks. There are also restaurants, hotels (the ones I stay at in winter don’t have pools), and weekend night markets along the main street. Lots of agencies offer activities in the surrounding countryside and mountains... In Chiang Rai, the temple architecture is the same (Lanna style), except for the recent White Temple. I only go there with friends who are into Asian architecture because it’s a long trip, and I take a flight back to Bangkok or elsewhere without returning to Chiang Mai.

Someone else might be able to tell you where to see beautiful rice fields in the north at this time of year. For the beaches, I’m not familiar with the ones you’re interested in, but you’ve already got some answers. Have a great trip!

Thanks so much for your quick reply! I’d seen on GetYourGuide day trips to Chiang Rai from Chiang Mai—leaving at 7 AM and returning at 10 PM. Honestly, I think I’ll take your advice and skip that tour. Or maybe add 2 extra nights there and cut 2 from the southern islands. Flight tickets still aren’t booked 😅 I set up an alert on Skyscanner. We’re still seeing around 1300 € with one stop in Dubai, or 1400 € for a direct flight with Thai Airways. Yeah, we’re also keeping an eye on weekday flights.

Question: Do you know if Bangkok’s airport is a nightmare to reach by public transport? If it’s anything like CDG Étoile (for those who know), I’m seriously considering booking the direct international flight and then connecting straight to the domestic flight to Chiang Mai. We’ll be exhausted, but at least we won’t have to make the trek back to the airport after just 2 nights in Bangkok. In that case, how many hours should we ideally allow between landing in Bangkok and our departure for Chiang Mai? 2 hours? 4 hours? Thanks!!

Hi there, Thanks for taking the time to reply. I read your travel journals about Thailand 😊 You suggest skipping Samui and Phangan. Based on my research, I was almost ready to do the opposite and skip Koh Tao. Is it because of the island’s more authentic vibe that you prefer it? I read that it’s better for snorkeling and strong swimmers, which isn’t our case. Snorkeling means coral beaches, which is why I was ready to skip it—especially since getting back to Bangkok for the return flight is a real hassle. Otherwise, when we arrive in Samui, should we head straight to the farthest point, so Tao, then come back to Phangan, and finally spend a few days on Samui before the flight to Bangkok (if I stick to the original plan of visiting all three islands!)? What do you think?

Hello, Your photos are amazing 🤩 we love visiting temples when we're in Asia. Thanks for the Bangkok itinerary idea! You seem to know this city well—would you have any recommendations for neighborhoods to stay in where there are lots of night markets and everything is within walking distance? I read that areas near BTS Saphan Taksin or Krungthonburi are practical and close to the river for visiting temples, but posts don’t mention the evening vibe. We’re planning to do a lot of sightseeing during the day and then head out on foot in the evenings to snack before heading back to the hotel, depending on our daughter’s energy (and our feet’s!).

Thanks also for your tip about staying in the "square" in Chiang Mai. I haven’t started researching neighborhoods for that city yet, but now I’ll know what to prioritize 😊

After your feedback on Chiang Rai and others’ before you, I’m really starting to doubt whether adding that stop is worth it. Thanks again!

Question: Do you know if the airport in Bangkok is a real hassle to reach by public transport? Is it like CDG Étoile?

From CDG Étoile, you don’t take off—you triumph. 😉 Bangkok’s main airport, Suvarnabhumi (BKK), is easily reachable by the Skytrain, which helps avoid the traffic jams (from 6–10 AM and 3–8 PM) from the city center. However, the Skytrain doesn’t directly serve tourist areas, so you’ll still need another form of transport to reach one of its stations. The airport is also accessible by urban buses and special "airport" buses (I’ve forgotten the name). Otherwise, there’s the metered taxi. In any case, except for the Skytrain, never forget the traffic jam issue.

I’m seriously considering booking a direct international flight and then connecting straight to a domestic flight to Chiang Mai. We’ll be exhausted, but at least we won’t have to make the trip back to the airport after 2 nights.

That’s exactly what I’d do in your situation. Just make sure your connecting flight departs from Suvarnabhumi (BKK). Currently, Bangkok Airways*, Thai Airways**, AirAsia***, and Thai VietJet**** operate from there. If you take the Thai Airways international flight arriving at BKK around 6 AM, all these airlines have flights that’ll get you to Chiang Mai before 11 AM.

*Check at CDG if you can check your luggage straight through to Chiang Mai—it seems Thai Airways (international) and Bangkok Airways have commercial agreements, so in Bangkok, you’d only need to "transfer" and handle all formalities + baggage claim in Chiang Mai. **Same as above with Bangkok Airways. ***Low-cost. Be careful when booking—some of their flights to Chiang Mai depart from Don Mueang (DMK), the other airport, which is far from BKK. ****Low-cost.

In that case, how many hours should we ideally allow between arriving in Bangkok and departing for Chiang Mai? 2 hours? 4 hours? Thanks!!

Arrival at BKK → connection at BKK: 2 to 2.25 hours (including formalities + baggage claim at BKK). Arrival at BKK → connection at DMK: 4 to 5 hours.

Hello, As I mentioned, we mostly went to Bangkok in the winter, so we didn’t need a pool—the heat was bearable. We don’t like areas with lots of hotels and the touristy night markets that come with them. We often went to the Silom and Saladaeng districts, which are part of Bangkok’s economic and commercial center. There are quiet little hotels tucked away in the alleys, and *so* much life—the Thais work in offices and shopping malls. Starting in the morning, street stalls sell prepared fruit, ready-to-eat snacks, and other treats. They’re replaced by different cooks at lunchtime and in the evening. Until COVID, there was a food court behind the Central Department Store (the local Galeries Lafayette)—it was like a canteen for the people working in the area, and for us too... with authentic Thai quality and prices, not tourist prices. I assume it’s still there. There were also restaurants, of course. Every evening (6 out of 7 days), we’d buy mangoes with coconut sticky rice from the corner of Silom Road—the photo of the owner is on our kitchen wall!

Don’t miss mango sticky rice wherever you go (the rice can be blue, colored by butterfly pea flowers), Kao Soy in Chiang Mai—a local curry noodle soup with crispy noodles on top (you can find it at Picard)—and massaman curry, the favorite of Europeans. Massaman is a dish from the Muslim south, traditionally made with lamb, and it includes potatoes. Buddhists make it with chicken or beef. And don’t forget Chiang Mai sausages, pineapple pork served with dried pork... Safe travels and bon appétit! I see that the last little place we stayed at is still on Booking—it’s called Urban House and still has great reviews.

My take, really, is that with such a short trip, I’d pick just one of the three spots.

For the islands, if I were you, I’d just stay on Samui. From there, you can do the following day trips: - To Phangan for the day, leaving from Mae Nam with the Lomprayah catamaran (20-minute crossing). Hire a private taxi for the day and have them show you around the island. Lots of beaches, all as beautiful as each other, like Haad Son Beach, Chaloklum, Thong Naï Pan Yaï, and Haad Rien (the Full Moon Party beach). Avoid going a week before or after the party—way too crowded. The dates are easy to find online. - Ang Thong National Marine Park - Koh Madsum and Koh Rat by longtail boat - Koh Nang Yuan

For where to stay, based on what you’ve said, Crystal Bay beach is a great choice. There are 5 or 6 hotels right on the beach, almost all with a pool. At this time of year, the beach is at low tide, and the water is crystal clear. You’ll find restaurants nearby, including one that serves excellent French or Thai food at reasonable prices in a lovely setting. It’s also very clean. You’ll be just 3 km from Lamaï, with its night market, restaurants, and other attractions.

For the north, don’t forget you’ll be there during the rainy season, but that doesn’t mean it’ll rain every day or all day.

Hi there, I don’t quite understand your desire to visit so many places... You’ll spend all your time in transit, and choosing several islands doesn’t seem wise either. If you want to explore the north a bit, my advice would be to stick to Chiang Mai and its surroundings—there’s plenty to do within 50 km of Chiang Mai. Skip the rest, especially Chiang Rai. As for the islands in the Gulf of Thailand, I’d recommend avoiding Koh Samui. It’s become too polluted and overcrowded... I first visited this island in 1975—a little paradise where people lived off fishing and copra harvesting. Ten years later, things started to deteriorate (in my opinion) with the arrival of electricity and paved roads, then screens and "video"... Finally, with the construction of the airport came the era of concrete! The charm is gone. If you like crowds, noise, marine pollution, rarely clear water, and concrete, then Koh Samui might be for you—just like Pattaya, where the water might even be clearer. Koh Phangan has certainly changed a lot too, but I think there are still some quiet spots left on the island... If I were you, I’d stick to this island—it’s a bit more "natural."

We’d like to treat ourselves to a hotel with a pool.

Affordable hotels (with a pool) by a *khlong* where you can walk along the canal for a short distance to find a "boat stop" on the Chao Phraya, giving you the chance to get around all the tourist areas by river. Lamphu Tree House: https://www.tripadvisor.fr/Hotel_Review-g293916-d940156-Reviews-Lamphu_Tree_House-Bangkok.html

Hi everyone, thanks a million for all your tips! Mango sticky rice is already one of my favorite desserts, and reading your posts makes me even more excited to be there!! Wishing you all a wonderful day

Hi, thank you so much for this detailed reply. I’ll follow your advice and Jojoone1’s too! I’ll go over all the valuable tips everyone’s given me and fine-tune my trip to make it more realistic

Hello, You seem to know Samui well. Is the sea no longer crystal clear these days, or is it just at this time of year? Crowds and tourists don’t bother me—in fact, I chose Samui as the main island for our trip because I thought it was the perfect balance between city and beach. However, if the seas are a bit murky, that might be less appealing to us . Are there still some beaches you’d recommend over others in August in terms of water "quality"? Thanks so much for the accommodation tip—I’d seen it mentioned in a lot of posts too. Noted for Chiang Rai—everyone says to avoid that stop, so I’ll take your advice.

Hi there, I really want to thank you for such a detailed response. It’s exactly all the info I needed to get organized. I get that it’s gonna be tough to find accommodation close to the Skytrain AND also want a lively neighborhood . And if taking a taxi, count on an extra hour in traffic jams. Good call on the luggage transfer directly through Thai Airways—I’ll look into it ahead of time.

Anyway, thanks to everyone for taking the time to reply. And for repeating the same thing to people who keep asking the same questions, whether out of ignorance or just to feel reassured

Have a great day!

What Djalma says isn’t entirely wrong. If you stay on this beach, you’ll notice that in the morning and until around noon, you’ll be swimming in what feels like "Vittel" (bottled water). The water gets a bit murky with the tide, and if it’s crowded in the afternoon. It’s nothing like a Mediterranean beach where, by 11 AM, you’re dipping into a bacterial soup.🏴‍☠️

You seem to know Samui well. Is the sea no longer crystal clear these days, or is it just at this time of year? Crowds and tourists don’t bother me—in fact, I chose Samui as the main island for our trip because I thought it was the perfect balance between city and beach. However, if the seas are a bit murky, that might not be as appealing . Are there still some beaches you’d recommend over others in August in terms of water “quality”?

I wouldn’t say I *know* it well—I’ve been there at three different times, the last just after the airport was built… so that wasn’t exactly yesterday! I’m nostalgic for the days when there were no roads or electricity, and hardly any concrete except for a few buildings in the main village where you’d arrive on the island. All the “bungalows” back then were made of wood (bamboo) with palm-leaf roofs! Even in the very early days of tourism, I’d noticed that the water quality (clarity) was worse in all the Gulf of Thailand islands (Samui, Phangan, Tao, etc.) compared to the Andaman Sea islands (Phuket, Phi Phi, Lanta, etc.). Though I’m sure that also depends on the season… Since I’m mostly interested in what’s underwater (snorkeling, diving), I’ve always preferred the latter. That was until my last trip to Thailand/Malaysia: Koh Muk, Koh Kradan, Koh Lipe, Koh Tarutao… The two best for snorkeling were Koh Muk and Koh Lipe (though the latter is now overcrowded), and summer isn’t the best time to go there anyway.

At Samui, the most beautiful beaches (as always) are the busiest ones (Chaweng and Lamai), but since I prefer tranquility, I’d go for Bophut. My main interest was exploring the island’s interior, as snorkeling in Samui isn’t great—except maybe in a small cove I’ve forgotten the name of, in the south of the island.

Thanks also for your tip about staying in the "square" in Chiang Mai. I haven't started looking into neighborhoods for this city yet, but now I know what to prioritize! 😊

Great tip indeed. In the square, a quiet and charming area with guesthouses in alleys where two cars can barely pass each other (so it's pretty much pedestrian-only): just west of Tha Phae Gate in sois 1 to 5, which run north from Ratchadamnoen Rd up to Moon Muang Rd Lane 5.

Thanks to your feedback on Chiang Rai and others before you, I'm really starting to doubt whether it's worth adding this stop.

You’re wrong to doubt—go for it! Chiang Rai is also a lovely city to visit (and much less touristy than Chiang Mai) and deserves at least 3 to 4 nights to explore its nearby attractions: the White Temple, the Blue Temple, the King Mother Royal Villa and (especially) Garden (a must-see), the border vibe in Mae Sai, Chiang Saen and its majestic Mekong... Within the city, there are also some beautiful temples. Plus, the surrounding countryside is perfect for biking—try the area west-southwest of the old airport, right near the city. Cut down on beach time, and you’ll have time to go.

Mango sticky rice is already one of my favorite desserts

In the local language: khao niou mamouang.

On this one, I totally disagree with you. The White Temple, for me, is exactly the kind of thing to avoid: recent, paid entry, ultra-touristy. Just like the Blue Temple, there’s no historical appeal—just flashy, concrete stuff.

Honestly, if the Chiang Rai area could compete with Chiang Mai, we’d have known about it ages ago.