Japan: First Discovery! (page 1 of 5)

Here’s a little story about my first trip to Japan with my partner. We went for our first visit from October 29 to November 13, 2024.

I had planned this entire trip back in November 2020, but given the health situation at the time, I had to cancel...

Here’s the classic route we took:

We booked everything ourselves and got a regional pass for the area from Kyoto to Hiroshima. The hotels were reserved 3 months in advance on Book... and Agod... (1030 € for 2 people for 13 nights = 80 €/night). For the flight, we chose a Qatar Airways flight with a layover to break up the long journey (950 € per person). We also got a pass on the same site (Japan-Experience) to take the train connecting Narita Airport to Shibuya Station (the N'EX Narita Express). Since the airport is 75 km from central Tokyo, we opted for this mode of transport, even though there are cheaper alternatives. After reading various posts on VoyageForum, I understood how important it was to have a Welcome Suica card to pay for public transport (subway, tram, bus, boat throughout the country), and we were able to buy one at Narita Airport. It turned out to be super useful! After a long but smooth journey, we found ourselves at Narita Airport in the evening. Even though we had a pass for the Narita Express, we had to go to a counter to make a reservation for the train (mandatory). Then, once we arrived at Shibuya Station, we took the subway for 2 stops and finally reached our hotel, exhausted (Hotel Asia Center of Japan – 270 € for 3 nights with breakfast included).

At the hotel, we discover two yukatas on the bed: the tone is set! The next day, we decide to explore Kamakura, whose heritage we had heard about. This former capital is located by the sea, 1.5 hours from Tokyo. The problem is figuring out how to navigate the Tokyo subway... First issue: the Welcome Suica card isn’t active. Fortunately, the Japanese, seeing us struggling, don’t hesitate to come and help us—just like throughout the entire trip. It’s really nice, when arriving in a country as different from France as Japan, to feel surrounded by people ready to lend a hand with a smile, despite the language barrier. What also amazed us was the cleanliness of Tokyo—no paper or dog mess on the sidewalks, even though there are no trash cans. After a few hiccups, we arrive at our first temple around 11 AM.

Hongaku-ji Temple

We’re alone in this small temple, but we can already see the attention to detail in every aspect.

This modest temple exudes serenity. We continue wandering and stumble upon Chokozan Myohon Temple. This larger temple is also off the tourist trail and is a delight to visit. We’re lucky because a Japanese woman in a kimono is having a photo shoot.

How beautiful these kimonos are!

On our way out, we see a rickshaw with two Asians inside—it feels like we’ve stepped back in time.

We leave this timeless place to visit more famous spots. Soon, we arrive at Tsurugaoka Shrine: This 800-year-old shrine was revered by samurai. There are many Japanese people here, including lots of schoolchildren.

We’re truly immersed in Japanese religion, with sake barrels on display, ema plaques, and wish papers strung up like garlands. Our visit to Kamakura delights us!

I see you're quick with the camera! Thanks for sharing and for the extra info.

Thanks for sharing and for these amazing photos. I’d be interested in visiting Japan, but I’m worried about getting lost in public transport—especially the Tokyo subway!

I see you're quick with the camera! Thanks for sharing and for the extra info.

Yeah, when you discover Japan, you do like the Japanese in France—you see so many interesting and exotic things that you just want to photograph everything!

Thanks for sharing and for these amazing photos. I’d be interested in Japan but I’m worried about getting lost in public transport, especially the Tokyo subway!

Actually, I found the Tokyo subway pretty straightforward: the lines are marked by a colored circle or square. In the morning, we’d decide where we wanted to go and use Google Maps to plan our route from our starting point to our destination. We’d take a photo of the route (we didn’t have mobile data) and then at the station, we’d look for the colored circle with the corresponding letter. The tricky part was figuring out the right direction—but you get the hang of it quickly.

Ah, got it about the subway. Did you get a pass? They say Japan is an expensive destination—what did you think?

I got a 48-hour pass (1200 yen = 7.5 €) for the Tokyo subway, which I didn’t find very expensive. Otherwise, with the yen being quite low at the moment, the trip didn’t seem too pricey when I organized it myself: Flight: 900 € Hotel: 500 € Public transport: 400 € (JR Pass West + shinkansen Tokyo-Kyoto + Osaka-Tokyo + subway pass + NEX) Temples + Museums: 60 € Food: 430 € (snacks for lunch, restaurant meals in the evening) Total: 2300 € per person + gifts.

We were surprised by how affordable hearty meals were!

After a quick meal, we finished our visit to Kamakura with a slightly off-the-beaten-path temple that’s rarely crowded, yet absolutely stunning: Kencho-ji Temple.

This 13th-century Zen temple also marks the starting point for the Tenen hiking trail, which offers views of Mount Fuji—perfect for those who love a good hike! On our way back to the station, we passed through a bustling pedestrian shopping street where we picked up quite a few things. We noticed that in Japan, many souvenirs are unique to specific places, so if you see something you like, don’t overthink it—you might not find it again! The trip back to our hotel went smoothly, and after such a great day, we had dinner at a small restaurant in the neighborhood, enjoying buckwheat noodles with a hearty pork soup and a glass of wine.

After a very peaceful night (though we woke up at 3 AM due to jet lag...), we set off to explore Tokyo.

We decided to visit Meiji Jingu Shrine. This Shinto shrine is nestled in the heart of a forest with 100,000 trees—you’d never guess you’re in the middle of a megacity! We started by visiting the (paid) garden, but the autumn colors weren’t quite there yet. When we reached the shrine grounds, we witnessed a ceremony that we didn’t fully understand but found incredibly impressive:

Around the stage, there was a beautiful ikebana exhibition:

After this visit, we decided to dive into another world by heading to Takeshita Street.

Here, the crowd is dense, the vibe is playful, and the shops are wildly varied. We even discovered a pig bar!

As for us, since we prefer cats, we head to the same street to have a drink in a bar surrounded by felines.

In this clean and quiet spot, we recharge before continuing toward the shopping streets of Shiyoda, where we come across some quirky vehicles.

It’s time to head back, and by chance, while looking for a metro connection, we discover some beautiful food stalls in the Isetan store in Shinjuku—everything there is so kawaii!

We also notice that the Japanese are drawn to France, as many shops have French names or are actually French.

I got a 48-hour pass (1200 yen = 7.5 €) for the Tokyo subway, which I didn’t find very expensive. Otherwise, with the yen being quite low at the moment, the trip didn’t seem too pricey when I organized it myself: Flight: 900 € Hotel: 500 € Public transport: 400 € (JR Pass West + shinkansen Tokyo-Kyoto + Osaka-Tokyo + subway pass + NEX) Temples + Museums: 60 € Food: 430 € (snacks for lunch, restaurant meals in the evening) Total: 2300 € per person + gifts.

We were surprised by the price of hearty meals that weren’t expensive.

I thought it was more expensive because when you see the prices charged by travel agencies...

It's not comparable—when you organize things yourself, it's definitely cheaper... Japan is easily accessible, and any worries about transportation don’t last long. It’s really easy and very well signposted. There are lots of lines that intersect or require transfers, but if you follow Google Maps, there’s no way to go wrong. In Kyōto, it’s mostly bus lines, and I found that a bit more complicated, but it’s all relative. At worst, if you make a mistake, you just backtrack! If you don’t have a precise arrival time, it doesn’t change much. However, when planning your day, allow extra time for transportation. The stations are huge, and in Kyōto, for example, it took me a good 10 minutes to cross the station even when walking fast. Next time, I’ll book a hotel near the bus station... 😅 Have a great trip!

It's true that when you can organize things yourself, it lets you discover more countries financially, but on the other hand, I know some people need the reassurance and structure or don’t have the time to plan their trip... Everyone sees things their own way! ;) However, I think the prices for Japan trips through agencies are overpriced.

However, I find that the prices for trips to Japan through agencies are overpriced.

They artificially inflate prices with relatively luxurious accommodations, even though a comfortable hotel is enough since you spend the day outside. They also play on first-time travelers' fears, even though everything is easy in Japan.

The prices charged by Kuoni, for example, are just outrageous. By following exactly the same itinerary (except for slightly less luxurious hotels), you can divide the cost by 2 or 3.

So we discovered a pig bar!



I’ve already tried cat cafés, owl bars, hedgehog cafés, rabbit bars, and parakeet bars. I’ll add the pig bar to my list for next time—I didn’t know those existed!

Otherwise, there’s also an otter bar and a shiba bar...

I thought it was more expensive

Tokyo is roughly the same price as Paris, but food is much cheaper there. Plus, the yen exchange rate is particularly low right now.

We booked accommodations near train stations with large rooms (for Japan), and honestly, if we did it again, we’d go for the same ones—the budget wasn’t outrageous, so I really think travel agencies are padding their pockets... My company’s employee committee offered the exact same itinerary with a French-speaking guide for 5400 € for 12 days in early October!

My company’s works council was offering the exact same itinerary with a French-speaking guide for 5400 € for 12 days in early October!

Instead of 2300 €...

This is another classic travel agency trick. I’ve already mentioned hotels—there are also the (in)famous guides who create (supposed) added value... which we don’t necessarily need or even want.

My company’s works council offered the exact same itinerary with a French-speaking guide for 5400 € for 12 days in early October!

Instead of 2300 €...

That’s another travel agency trick we’re seeing here. I’ve already mentioned the hotels—there are also the (in)famous guides who create a (supposed) added value... which we don’t necessarily need... or even want.

yeah, that’s what I spent! I totally agree with this opinion.

This morning we're packing up and heading to Kyoto, but first we're looking for a shop near the hotel. Quite by chance, we stumble upon a tiny temple where a wedding is taking place: The atmosphere is super zen, and the ceremony is surprising for us Europeans. We then head to Tokyo Station to catch a shinkansen. We didn’t get a JR Pass for the first week due to the price increase. But when we arrive at the station with our luggage, we find an incredible crowd... Apparently, torrential rains somewhere in Japan caused delays of 1.5 to 2 hours for all shinkansen. We’d heard so much about the punctuality of Japanese trains 🏴‍☠️ After nearly an hour in line, we manage to get a reserved seat, but once we pass the ticket gates, it’s impossible to figure out when our train will arrive or which platform it’s on... The Japanese people we ask give us contradictory info. Finally, nearly 2 hours later, our train arrives, and luckily, we’re on the right platform. We finally settle into our carriage, but the train is moving slower than usual, so we arrive at Tokyo Station around 5 PM. We’re staying at M's Hotel Kyoto Station Kasuga, which is very close to the station—super convenient. We decide to explore the neighborhood and spot the To-ji Buddhist temple on the map. It’s open in the evening, and we discover this beautiful temple with some great lighting. Five-story pagoda, 55 meters tall, built in 1644

Unfortunately, photography is forbidden in the rooms with the beautiful statues—just a feast for the eyes! After this lovely visit, we struggle a bit to find a restaurant before heading to bed. If anyone knows what this dish was, it was made with cabbage, seafood, and eggs... We really liked it, and the waitress cooked the ingredients right in front of us.