Sharing our 3-week experience in Brazil

Hello, We’re a couple in our sixties and we’ve just spent 22 days in Brazil, from October 29th to November 21st. We flew from Marseille via Lisbon—outbound to Rio, and back from Recife. Our itinerary: 4 days in Rio 4 days on Ilha Grande 2 days in Paraty 4 days in Salvador 4 days on Boïpeba 4 days in Olinda The transfer between Boïpeba and Recife took us 2 days—boats, taxis, and a flight. We stayed in Airbnbs except in Paraty, where we were in a pousada, and during the Boïpeba–Recife transfer, when we booked a hotel near the airport. Our flights were with Gol and Azul. Transfers from Rio were arranged through Paraty Tour. In Rio, we used a local agency to visit Corcovado and Sugarloaf Mountain.

Happy to answer any questions! Marc

Thanks for this feedback, Marc. I’ve been dreaming of Boipeba for ages after two trips to Brazil where we didn’t have time to visit. There was a report on this island tonight on *7 à 8* on TF1. The locals are fighting to protect their paradise from concrete, but developers are lurking, and no one really knows how things will turn out! Between Ilha Grande and Boipeba, are there a lot of differences? Christelle

Hi Christelle,

Ilha Grande is twice as large as Boïpeba, 193 km² compared to 88, and it's mountainous, with its peak at 1,000 meters, so it might be better suited for hiking. Boïpeba is further north, with higher temperatures, and the ocean is also warmer there. Ilha Grande is more easily accessible from Rio—2 hours by car and 30 minutes by speedboat—while Boïpeba takes longer to reach from Salvador: 40 minutes by boat, 2 hours by car to Valença, then another good half-hour by speedboat to get to Boïpeba. Their main towns are similar in size, with between 3,000 and 4,000 inhabitants. No cars on the islands (except for emergency services). Lots of accommodations, restaurants, and shops, as well as plenty of boat transport options to get around each island or reach the beaches. Both islands have stunning beaches, which were "empty" when we were there. I think Boïpeba is less crowded than Ilha Grande, though Ilha Grande is less well-known, even among Brazilians. Since Ilha Grande is located between Rio and Paraty, it’s easy to stop there. I might have preferred Boïpeba because of its beaches. Hope this helps! Marc

Awesome, thanks Marc and have a great day! 😊

Hi Marc, I’m thrilled to see a comment about Brazil! I’ve been dreaming of going and my first question is: can a woman travel alone safely there? Your itinerary would basically be mine, with a must-see—the Iguaçu Falls. Of course, Rio and Sugarloaf Mountain too. I can’t wait to hear your thoughts! Thanks

Hi Marie Claude,

Tough question—we met a 25-30-year-old French woman on Ilha Grande who was traveling solo, and she told us she felt more hassled in Paris than in Rio. She said she walked around Copacabana late at night without any issues. That’s the only firsthand example I can share from our trip to Brazil that directly answers your question.

If you stick to the well-trodden "tourist" paths, avoid going alone to "risky" areas (I’m thinking of favelas, but there are others), you’ll see police everywhere, as well as private militias patrolling the streets—we spotted them in Olinda. If you go out without a bag, no "big" camera, just wearing shorts, flip-flops, and a t-shirt (i.e., dressed like a local), with a copy of your passport and a few bills, your phone tucked between your skin and fabric, sunglasses, and a cap... or a small crossbody bag for your glasses, a book, etc.

At the airport, for example, take a taxi from the desk inside the arrivals hall—not outside—or book an Uber, which is widely used there.

For payments, you can use your phone if you don’t want to carry too much cash—also very common.

Follow these rules that Brazilians remind tourists about. To them, Rio *is* dangerous—they say it themselves—but we never felt at risk, even in Recife, where the city is really run-down and the population is struggling.

Brazilians are always incredibly attentive and kind.

Anyway, just take the usual precautions. Hope this helps! Marc

Boipeba without a doubt, Christelle! Ilha Grande is more focused on hiking, while Boipeba has its pristine beaches and lobsters 😉 But you already know that—you’ve read my travel journals, right? When’s the departure?

Hi Marie Claude, You’re used to traveling alone, so you know what to do and what not to do. Brazil isn’t any more dangerous than other countries—the Brazilians are very welcoming. Just don’t go out alone at night, and in Rio, opt for group tours (favelas). Be extra careful in Salvador, the only place where I didn’t feel safe (outside the city center).

Thanks Marc for your reply! Actually, my insecurity is more about my phone since I always have it in hand to guide me with GPS.... That’s the fear—getting my phone snatched. I don’t know how to navigate without this tool... And like you seem to suggest, it’s better to walk around with hands in pockets.... In all the countries I’ve visited so far, I’ve never hidden my phone. So, should I buy a cheap local phone just to use for directions? I walk a lot, with my head in the clouds, and only GPS can get me back to my accommodation... How did you manage it? Thanks

Thanks Bruno! Yes, I’ve been traveling solo for years, but I’ve never had to leave my accommodation with my hands in my pockets, afraid someone might snatch my phone—so keeping it out of sight. What do you all think, and how did you handle it? This phone is really essential for guiding me wherever my steps take me... Thanks for sharing your experiences!

We used our phones for GPS—I’d downloaded maps of Rio and other cities so we could get around offline. It’s tough in Rio, at least, to find tourist spots when you exit the metro, for example, since there are no signs. I kept my phone in my pocket and my wife had hers on a lanyard. Nothing too obvious—you can buy a plastic pouch with a lanyard that lets you take your phone everywhere, even in the water while swimming. Could be a good solution.

It’s really only in big cities (Rio, Salvador, etc.) that you risk anything at all. For my part, I’ve always trusted my lucky star, and so far, so good. If you’re really scared, you can use an earpiece and keep your phone in your pocket—Google Maps talks too! Test it out before you leave. But anyway, like everywhere else, EVERYONE has their phone in hand there…

I had my phone in my pocket and my wife at the end of a strap.

Does she ever try to make a run for it? 😛

The phone at the end of the strap please correct

Hi, I’m also traveling solo to Brazil this summer.

I had my phone in my pocket and my wife at the end of a strap.

Does it ever try to escape? 😛

I hadn’t noticed!

The mobile phone (more specifically, the famous "smartphone") is the item most targeted by street thieves. Flashing it is basically an invitation to get robbed (and the thieves are well aware that if you're using an earpiece, it's connected to... a smartphone). This obviously isn’t a problem unique to Brazil. Just yesterday, I had travelers from London on board who told me the issue has become huge there too. Same as in big French cities like certain neighborhoods in Paris, Bordeaux, Marseille, etc. The basic rule for traveling safely in Brazil (and elsewhere) is to avoid ANY outward signs of wealth and never leave your bag (backpack or otherwise) unattended.

I’m happy to read that Boipeba Island (in my region of Bahia, where I’ve lived for over 20 years) is a hit with so many people. This island is much quieter than the neighboring Morro de São Paulo.

Don’t hesitate if you have any practical questions about Bahia.

Tropical greetings from Salvador,