Martine and DD in Colorado and Utah

Hello everyone! 🙂 So many silent months, and now Voyage Forum is accessible again. That’s cool because we can pick up our discussions for our mutual enjoyment. I hope everyone is doing well and that you’ve been able to take some great trips, whether to the USA or elsewhere. In September 2020, we had planned a round trip to explore Colorado, but unfortunately, a nasty virus messed up our plans, closing borders and keeping us stuck at home. Luckily for us, canceling the car, flights, and accommodations didn’t cost us a thing—everything was refunded. In 2023, a loop from Las Vegas let us revisit places we’d seen in 2017 and discover new ones, this time spending more time at each stop with some lovely hikes. In 2024, we finally revisited the 2020 plan, and I’ll start with that. However, unforeseen circumstances mean I have much less time than before, so I’ll keep my trip reports shorter (ha ha ha—you’ll have less of my prose to endure). Another change: for those who remember the "Gang of Four crazy sixty-somethings," it was just DD and me this time. Our dear Mimi and Maumau left the Var to focus on raising horses and can’t leave their little green paradise to join us anymore. We were unfortunately much tamer without them. We traveled from September 11 to October 3.

The itinerary



Day 1: Flight Marseille-Paris-Denver, then Manitou Springs (133 km) Day 2: Manitou Springs (49 km) Day 3: Cripple Creek (104 km) Day 4: Salida (254 km) Day 5: Great Sand Dunes (231 km) Day 6: Durango (283 km) Day 7: Durango (Durango-Silverton train) Day 8: Ouray (121 km) Day 9: Ouray (Perimeter Trail hike) Day 10: Cortez (213 km) Day 11: Cortez (Mesa Verde National Park, 134 km) Day 12: Monticello (268 km, detour to Chesler Park) Day 13: Moab (171 km, Delicate Arch) Day 14: Moab (98 km, Fisher Towers) Day 15: Moab (171 km, Canyonlands) Day 16: Fruita (210 km, Colorado National Monument) Day 17: Crested Butte (224 km via Kebler Pass) Day 18: Crested Butte (57 km) Day 19: Glenwood Springs (150 km) Day 20: Glenwood Springs (118 km, Rifle State Park) Day 21: Georgetown (258 km via Independence Pass) Day 22: Denver (123 km), then return flight

We speak very little English. We spent 21 nights there and covered a 3,400 km loop by car and 160 km on foot (we’re still trying to hike while we’re in shape) from Denver in September 2024. We wanted this road trip to help us explore Colorado a bit more—we’d only spent 6 nights there in 2019—and to see it during the fall foliage season. We also wanted to return to Utah (we love Moab) to enjoy its red rocks, which we adore.

In the prices you see (some in euros, others in dollars), I’ve included bank fees and exchange charges. The flights, car, and parking were paid by credit card when we booked in February. Usually, we book around November, but some obligations kept us from doing it earlier. We downloaded the MPC (Mobile Passport Control) app on our phone, which saved us time at immigration.

📊 **Budget: just under 8,500 € for both of us, all included**

📊 **Flights** Marseille-Paris (CDG)-Denver: 2,152 € for both of us, with one checked bag each

📊 **ESTA and America the Beautiful Pass** The ones from our 2023 road trip were still valid

📊 **Parking at Marseille airport: 122 €**

📊 **Car: Nissan Rogue (the French X-Trail) from Hertz: 1,165 €** By booking through Air France (and earning miles), we got a 15% discount. Hertz offers a free Hertz Gold Plus Rewards program, which gives us priority counter service.

📊 **Accommodation: 3,050 €** We stayed in motels and hotels of various ranges (from 100 € to 270 € per night, depending on the city), all booked through Hotels.com or Booking. Booking sometimes offers cheaper rates if you book via the "Booking mobile" app. We also got some preferential rates thanks to our Genius 2 status. Out of 21 nights, only one place didn’t include breakfast.

📊 **Other expenses (activities booked by credit card before leaving)** Durango-Silverton train: 210 € (we booked the enclosed vintage coach in March) Mesa Verde: Balcony House: 15.15 € (booked 14 days before the visit) Timed-entry passes for Arches National Park: 6 € for 3 days (booked June 1 for September entries via http://récreation.gov/). We booked three different days to play with the weather.

📊 **Supplementary insurance with AVA: 204 €** (due to our age 😅 and the high cost of medical consultations in the USA)

📊 **Cash: 1,540 €** We left with 1,000 € exchanged before departure and made two withdrawals (500 $ and 200 $). This cash was used to pay for: - Evening restaurants and tips (between 70 $ and 95 $ for two meals and two drinks) - Two state parks: Dead Horse State Park (20 $) and Rifle State Park (10 $) - The Monarch Pass gondola (24 $) - Midday picnics - Gas (slightly cheaper with cash): 204 $ for 3,400 km - Personal souvenirs and little treats.

Like in our previous road trips, we didn’t rent a GPS. We used the offline GPS app Here We Go, for which we’d downloaded maps of Colorado and Utah from France, as well as a new offline app called Organic Maps as a backup—though we didn’t end up needing it.

❤️❤️❤️ **Highlights (there are so many!)** 📍 The stunning landscapes of Colorado, especially with the fall colors 📍 A step back in time at the old farm in Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument 📍 The prairies of Cripple Creek and the mining remnants of the Vindicator Trail 📍 The cheeky chipmunks in the ghost town of St. Elmo 📍 Great Sand Dunes and its soft sand 📍 The steam train between Durango and Silverton: we’re glad we chose the round-trip because it rained heavily on the way there, but we got to enjoy the scenery on the way back when the sun came out 📍 The unexpected meet-up with Michèle from the group outside a restaurant in Durango 📍 The hot springs in Ouray 📍 Mesa Verde and its still-vibrant past 📍 The red rocks of Moab and Delicate Arch at sunset 📍 The lace-like Fisher Towers and the view from the end of the trail 📍 The gorgeous Route 128 leading to Colorado National Monument—small, easy to visit, and so beautiful 📍 The colors of the fabulous Kebler Pass, Crested Butte, and especially the hike through the golden aspens (Lower and Upper Loop) 📍 The waterfalls at Rifle State Park 📍 The tundra of Independence Pass 📍 The Halloween decorations in Georgetown and Idaho Springs

😞😞 **Flops (there are very few!)** 📍 The viewpoints we missed because they weren’t well-marked or we didn’t see the signs 📍 The closure of some hiking trails (Hanging Lake and parts of Canyonlands) and the Sal Mountain Loop road, which kept us from accessing it 📍😢 The Chesler Park hike we had to cut short due to poor time management—180 km between our stop in Cortez meant we didn’t arrive until 10:30 AM, way too late for a 17 km hike.

Hope this helps! Have a great evening, everyone, and see you soon! 😊

Day 1, September 11: Marseille-Paris-Denver-Manitou Springs Magnuson Hotel: 201 € for 2 nights with breakfast Cute little hotel with a fridge, kettle, jacuzzi, and pool Small restaurant right next door (nice not to have to get back in the car after a flight)

So here we are, off again on our round trip to the USA. We left the house at 5 a.m. this morning, and with the time difference, we’ve been up for at least 24 hours—but we’re good, the excitement of the trip keeps the fatigue away. Small disappointment for me, though—I spent the whole flight glued to the window, but we flew over a sea of clouds for practically the entire 9-hour flight! Didn’t get to see my beloved Greenland or the icebergs that charm me so much 😢😢. When we left Denver at 5 p.m. (big cities aren’t really our thing), it was 30°C, with totally dried-out prairies. We’re staying for 2 nights in Manitou Springs, a charming little town in Colorado at nearly 2,000 meters altitude, with plenty to see and do. We’re sleeping in a cute little motel where, just by stepping onto the sidewalk, you can see the legendary Pikes Peak and its 4,301 meters in the distance.

The little restaurant next to the motel is called Savelli’s. It serves mainly Italian food, and the pasta was excellent

Day 2, September 12th: Manitou Springs and its surroundings Just a few kilometers of driving today—we’re sticking around Manitou Springs. The day started off great! While out photographing Pike Peak, a family of mule deer crossed the road right in front of me and slipped away under my nose!! That put me in a good mood for the rest of the day.

Manitou Springs is a water town with gorgeous houses. It manages seven mineral springs that you can taste. We looked for them and found four, tasting three (not great, honestly—salty and a bit fizzy).

After that little spring tour, we headed to the Broadmoor 7 Falls park in Colorado Springs. This paid park has been welcoming visitors since 1883. It’s a series of seven waterfalls cascading down a 50-meter-high canyon. To reach the first viewpoint, you can take an elevator carved into the rock or climb 180 steps. As for the 7 Falls themselves, access is only via very steep stairs (224 steps) that run alongside them and lead to the top.

Once there, two hiking trails await: one easy and almost flat, and another longer and steeper that takes you to a stunning viewpoint.

Some might find it too touristy and not natural enough. We really liked it: the steep cliffs, the water flowing everywhere (waterfalls, streams), the sound of the wind in the pine trees, and the coolness of the place!!! Plus, the setup allows people with reduced mobility to enjoy it (elevator, shuttle), and that’s awesome.

After that, we headed to Rock Ledge Ranch Historic Site, an open-air museum about life in the past. Unfortunately, it was closed that day, but we could still wander among the closed buildings and see some farm animals. We had to leave earlier because rattlesnakes had been spotted, and the staff on site made sure to clear out the few visitors who were there.

Our last walk of the day was at Garden of the Gods. It’s a remarkable site where very tall red sandstone formations—ranging from bright white to orange, created millions of years ago—have been sculpted by wind, erosion, and ice. The colors contrasting with the green vegetation offer a fabulous spectacle where you can let your imagination run wild. You can explore it on foot (24 km of hiking trails, paved or not, crisscross the site) or by car. You can even go climbing there!





- This park is free. When the owner of the land died in 1909, the family donated it to the city on the express condition that it remain a free public park.

Dinner was at the excellent Manitou Springs Company ($64 for two shepherd’s pies and two beers).

We took a stroll around the restaurant in this super cute little town, with its sculpted animals and benches made from surfboards and skis. What a packed day!!! Time to get some sleep!!!

Day 3, September 13. Manitou Springs - Cripple Creek Cripple Creek Hospitality House 140 € including breakfast This amazing and unique accommodation, which also welcomes RVs, is a former hospital built in 1901 for the county’s residents. Modern for its time (maternity ward, operating room, quarantine...), it closed in 1960 after serving as a retirement home for many years. In 1963, it was restored to become a Victorian hotel. The common areas and rooms are furnished and decorated with great taste using period pieces. Each room has kept the name of the medical specialty it was originally used for. 140 € including breakfast.

Many of you had advised me to go up to the summit of Pike Peak, but we preferred hiking in nature rather than spending several hours in the car. Plus, I don’t drive at all (I hate it), and DD was already handling all the driving—adding that would’ve been too much, even if the views along the way and at the top were supposed to be stunning. We settled for taking photos of it from the road. The temperature was 17°C at 8:50 AM when we left Manitou Springs, and as we gained altitude, it dropped (it fell to 13°C in 45 minutes). The red rocks disappeared, giving way to mountain vegetation and meadows. Since we didn’t have many miles to cover today, we decided to stop at Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, where you can find petrified sequoia stumps up to 4 meters wide, formed nearly 35 million years ago due to intense volcanic eruptions, along with many fossils. We leisurely walked the Hombeck Wild Life Loop (2 hours to cover 6 km, with some steep climbs). Even though we didn’t see many animals—just a few playful prairie dogs— the hike and its views of the distant mountains, in these rolling prairie landscapes and pine forests, were really enjoyable.

Halfway through, you can visit several buildings from a farm built in 1870 by a widow and her four sons. You can enter the buildings, where a guide tells the story of this family and shows the surprisingly modern comforts for the time in such a remote place (a water pump in one room, an icehouse dug into the ground, supplied by ice blocks made in winter for the rest of the year...).

After that, we headed to Cripple Creek to drop off our bags. Cripple Creek and then Victor At nearly 3,000 meters, these two towns were born after gold deposits were discovered in 1880 (over 500 mines were active here). After gold production declined, Cripple Creek became almost a ghost town. The legalization of gambling in 1991 brought it back to life when the town renovated its historic buildings into casinos. As for Victor, it still has a historic district with beautiful brick buildings, and without the many casinos, it feels much more authentic. That’s where we went for a good hour’s hike to explore the mining remnants of the Vindicator Trail.



Along the way, you can even see Pike Peak in the distance

The powder magazine where dynamite was stored

Like in Florissant, the mountain landscapes are gorgeous, and we started seeing yellow appear in the aspen forests—a sign that autumn is coming. After this slightly sporty day, it was a real pleasure to return to our accommodation, the "Cripple Creek Hospitality House," a former hospital turned hotel.

Dinner was at the friendly "Maggie’s": 1 veggie burger, coleslaw, 1 chicken pasta dish, salad, garlic bread, 1 beer, 1 soda—everything was hearty and delicious for $50.

Day 4, September 14. Cripple Creek - Salida Gateway Inn & Suites:$87 with fridge, microwave, breakfast, and Jacuzzi. A nice little motel right next to a Mexican restaurant.

Since we couldn’t do the 20-kilometer loop around the open-pit gold mine that’s still active yesterday,

we decide to do it this morning as we leave Cripple Creek. A pleasant encounter with two little does right in the town center. We pass through Victor again.



Just before leaving town for good, there’s the Mt. Pisgah Cemetery by the roadside. We’re first struck by the memorial area for soldiers who recently fell in combat, with a helicopter and a cannon right at the entrance. This cemetery dates back to 1890, when the county’s population exceeded 30,000. The 16-hectare site was donated by two Denver residents. The oldest grave dates to 1882. The fenced sections belong to fraternal organizations, and there are areas for veterans of different wars. Many small, blank plots represent unknown soldiers or those whose names have been lost. There’s also the grave of the woman who inspired the series *Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman*. You can stroll among wildflowers, natural grasses, and aspen trees in absolute tranquility, with a stunning view of the surrounding hills. We drove through it, but I would’ve loved to explore it more thoroughly.

We take the scenic route on back roads. We pass through gently rolling, almost pastel landscapes, then pine forests, with beautiful views of lakes, forests, and lush meadows (clearly, water isn’t scarce here). The town of Guffey is an indescribable mix of the Wild West and an open-air flea market in a massive jumble—worth the trip alone!!!! We wonder how the people who live there make a living.

We take the turnoff to the ghost town of St. Elmo. After a nice stretch of paved road, we hit 8 km of dirt track. It’s flat, easy to drive, and poses no difficulty (we saw plenty of sedans using it). I’m thrilled to see the surrounding aspen trees turning yellow. The visit to the historic buildings is quick, and I delight in the dozens of bold chipmunks climbing on us, begging for the seeds that some clever person decided to sell (not very respectful of nature, but what a joy they brought me!!!!).

In the late afternoon, we visit Salida, a lively town with its artists and the beautiful Riverside Park alongside the Arkansas River. We’re amazed to discover that you can actually surf on a river!

It’s September 14, and the first Halloween decorations are already appearing in gardens.

Dinner at Fiesta Tapada (formerly Quin’sy), right next to the motel: $61 for two huge, delicious plates and two sodas (they didn’t have their alcohol license yet).

Another great stop! Tomorrow, we’re heading to Great Sand Dunes.

J5 September 15. Salida-Great Sand Dune

Great Sand Dunes Lodge: 250 € per night including a hearty breakfast to enjoy in your room or on the terrace facing the dunes. (All rooms have a terrace facing the dunes) Just a few kilometers from the park. Fridge, microwave.

We fill up the tank before leaving Salida. $3.39 per gallon (almost 3.8 liters), even though prices have gone up since Covid, it’s still a dream. Before heading to the dunes, we take a little detour via Monarch Pass to take a cable car that takes us to a 360° viewpoint over the surrounding mountains. Along the way, we see more mining relics that take us back in time.

This will be the only bear we see during the road trip, while waiting for the cable car to take us to the summit.

We’re on one of the 6 Continental Divides in the USA (the watershed line), meaning the boundary between two drainage basins: water to the right of this line flows toward the Atlantic, and water to the left flows toward the Pacific. We start at 3,454 m. The walk is quick and nice (we’re alone in our bubble), and from the top at 3,657 m, we have a 360° view of 5 ranges of the Rocky Mountains.



We can even spot Pike Peak in the far background. At the very top, we notice a canid. I immediately think it’s a wolf. A nice couple tells me it’s a coyote. It darts through the short grass, giving us a sideways glance. On the way up, we saw that many pines are sick or dead over large areas. It’s sad. On the other hand, the aspens are magnificent. Autumn and its colors are really settling in!!! The trees are turning more and more yellow!!! It’s breathtaking. The flat expanse of stunted shrubs that replaced the mountain vegetation makes the road to Great Sand Dune monotonous. The sun, which had replaced the few morning raindrops, is now hiding. We make a quick stop at the UFO Watchtower along the way.

- It’s an observation platform that serves as a UFO lookout since some have supposedly been spotted here. The adorable elderly lady who built this observation tower in 2000 tried to tell me about her collection of evidence (newspaper articles, photos), but my school-level English didn’t let me understand much. Here again, an indescribable jumble of objects, each more eclectic than the last. There’s even a huge and very friendly wooden Sasquatch that’s super cute. If the $5 entry fee helps her put butter on her spinach or ketchup on her fries, I won’t have wasted my time. The sky is gray, and a crazy wind is whipping up sand whirlwinds that we can see from miles away before arriving at the park. Quick stop at the park’s visitor center, then a quick drop-off at the lodge to leave our suitcases, and off we go to the top of High Dune, which is 210 m high.

Great Sand Dunes Park (continued): Climbing High Dune

Quick stop at the visitor center. This park has the tallest dunes in North America, covering 76 square kilometers. They sit at the foot of a high mountain range. The sand was carried here by wind and water (streams, snowmelt, flash floods) from the mountains into the valley. This sand is between 12,000 years and over a million years old. The sky is overcast, and there are even a few raindrops. The ranger advises against hiking the dunes now because of an approaching storm, and tomorrow will be even worse. Bummer, that’s not cool. By the time we get to the lodge, drop off our bags, and have a quick coffee, the weather seems to be improving. What do we do—go or not?! No thunder in sight, and the sun is starting to peek out. Let’s go for it!!! Walking sticks in hand, water in our hydration packs, we start the hike. We cross the kilometer separating the parking lot from the base of the dunes (the little stream running through is completely dry) and begin climbing. My shoes quickly fill with sand, so I take them off and continue barefoot. It’s not easy to navigate. We try walking along the ridges, but that takes us on some serious detours. People on the lower dunes look smaller and smaller. Since the sky is gray, the sand isn’t hot, but a biting wind pelts our faces with sand, and we have to push hard to move forward. Several times, we almost turned back, but it’s too beautiful—we have to keep going. Just a little farther—we’ll make it to the next ridge. We catch our breath, stop, and keep going!! At one point, we’re completely out of energy!! We made it to the top of this ridge. We started at 2,460 meters at the parking lot, and now we’re at 2,627!! We climbed 167 meters with insane gusts of wind. Oh well, even if the summit doesn’t seem far, we take one last look around to soak in the moment and head back down. We pass hikers (not many, to be honest) sweating and panting like we just were, and we admire the sandboarders. For us, even though the descent was a walk in the park, we’re happy to get back to the car. The round trip took us 2.5 hours. Back at the lodge, I wait for the sunset from the terrace.

Unfortunately, even though it didn’t set over the dunes, it still gave us some gorgeous colors. Tomorrow morning, we’ve planned two more easy hikes in the park, and then we’re off to Durango for two nights.

J6 September 16. Great Sand Dunes - Durango

Durango Lodge 410 € for 2 nights, breakfast included. Ideally located for those who want to take the Durango-Silverton train since it’s just a 5-minute walk from the station. (Jacuzzi, pool)

At last, a full night’s sleep—just in time for sunrise, which turned out to be just a pink patch of sky and a few photos of the sunlit dunes before the gray weather rolled back in. A hearty breakfast on the lodge’s terrace, facing the dunes. A short 4 km hike was planned before leaving the park. At 9 AM, we tackled the Montville Nature Trail, followed by the Wellington Trail under heavy gray clouds. While the first part through the woods and tall grass was easy and pleasant, the walk back to the car along the road was less enjoyable, especially since the rain decided to crash the party. We made it to the car just in time before a good downpour. At 10:25 AM, we left the park!!! We arrived under gray skies and left in the rain. We were lucky to get a few hours of sunshine yesterday—it let us enjoy climbing High Dune without getting too hot thanks to the wind. The rain slows but doesn’t stop. We took the Lanes again, which crisscross the plain of this part of Colorado in a geometric pattern. Starting from South Fork, the mountain vegetation returns. We began the climb toward Wolf Creek Pass through pines and aspens, following the river, but the rain picked up, and the fog was so thick I missed the viewpoints. It finally cleared at the bottom of the pass, revealing a landscape of pretty meadows, groves, and multiple bodies of water. No more fog, even if the sky stayed overcast. We didn’t go all the way to Chimney Rock National Monument, but on Nadia’s advice, we stopped just off the road at the "Tavern" restaurant and RV park to photograph it from the parking lot.



We arrived in Durango at 3 PM with some timid sunshine (which didn’t last long before the rain returned). It’s a charming little town, like so many in the American West. Its historic downtown has some beautiful buildings, but it mainly serves as a base for taking the steam train that’ll whisk us back in time—eyes wide open!! We visited the interesting railroad museum right next to our hotel. Besides the old locomotives and train cars you can board, this very complete and varied museum (planes, animals, motorcycles, model trains) takes you back to the last century by showcasing changes and innovations through objects donated by families and former railroad workers. Then we strolled through town to see the magnificent "General Palmer Hotel," dating back to 1898. Right next door is the Diamond Bell Saloon, preserved just as it was, in its Wild West decor with fishnet-clad waitresses, a piano bar, and stunning decor.

Another little moment out of time—a quick but delicious meal at a reasonable price. We left the saloon when I heard someone call, "Ms. NEU." It was Michèle, with whom I’d exchanged a few posts during trip planning, who was also at the Diamond Bell with her daughter—she’d recognized me! While chatting, we realized we’d see each other again tomorrow thanks to the train excursion to Silverton. What were the odds of being in the same place at the same time—and even more, of being recognized?! See you tomorrow for one of the highlights of our road trip—riding the steam train to Silverton, hugging canyons, torrents, cliffs, and forests!!!

Hi Martine,

So glad to read a new travel journal from your adventures! Wow, you’ve already made so much progress—I’m impressed 😉 Looking forward to the next part 🙂

Hi Peggy! 🙂 So glad to see familiar names again. For my travel journal, I’ll admit I cheat—I just copy-paste (with a few additions) the daily updates I posted on Facebook back in September. I’m trying to post one per day since I’m also prepping a new road trip for September, this time in northern Arizona and New Mexico. Have a great evening! 🙂

Day 7, September 17. Steam train day: Durango-Silverton

Today is one of the highlights of our road trip—the train ride between Durango and Silverton. We’re lucky to have our hotel (the charming Durango Lodge with a jacuzzi and pool) just a 5-minute walk from the station.

We arrive at the station in pouring rain. By the time we find our seats, the rain stops, but the sky remains overcast. The train departs at 9:15 AM. We could choose to travel in a closed carriage with windows that open for photos, and that’s what we picked since I’m always cold. You can also opt for entirely open carriages, with seats facing the windows. Choosing the closed carriages turned out to be a great idea with the rain we had until 2 PM. We also had the option to return to Durango by bus for a quicker trip, but we preferred the train ride back to increase our chances of at least one sunny journey in case of bad weather. Again, it was the right choice—we enjoyed a sunny return and discovered how much more beautiful the landscape looks in the sun.

This line connecting Durango (2,100m) to Silverton (2,800m) was built between 1881 and 1882 to transport gold and silver ore from the San Juan Mountains, as well as passengers. We’re traveling on the same railway that cowboys and settlers used over 130 years ago. It later became a tourist line after the peak of mining. The carriages are pulled by coal-fired steam locomotives dating back to 1920. The ride feels like stepping back in time as it follows the Animas River, sometimes on the right, sometimes on the left, through stunning landscapes—narrow canyons, forests, and high mountains—far from civilization, lulled by the sound of steel wheels and the locomotive’s whistle. A few repeated whistle blasts from the conductor, and we know we’re approaching a key spot—time to get the cameras ready!

Excess steam is released through the blowdown valves.

The surrounding mountains are shrouded in clouds, and snow even covers some of the peaks in places.

After 3.5 hours of sticking our heads out the window to snap photos, we arrive in Silverton at 1:30 PM for a 2-hour stop. We step off the train into pouring rain and rush into the first restaurant: Natalia’s (avoid it—the food is really bland), but at least, given the endless wait to be served, we stayed warm and dry. By lunchtime, the rain finally stops, and the sun comes out. It won’t leave us for the rest of the day. We have half an hour to explore the town. We meet up with Michèle and her daughter, who are already settled since their train leaves half an hour before ours. A quick hello, three souvenir photos, and their train departs. We don’t linger—we head back to our seats. Tomorrow, we’re sleeping in Ouray, and Silverton is on our way. We’ll stop there before the crowds arrive.

At 3:15 PM, the train departs. The blue sky and sun return, transforming the landscape into something even more beautiful than on the way there. Silverton in the distance. Old-fashioned water refill. Haha!!! DD’s face in the foreground! Isn’t life great? Just watch out for the cinders.

At 6:35 PM, the train arrives back at Durango station. Time flew by—the journey is over.

No need to pick up the car; the hotel is nearby. We had an excellent meal at Steamworks Brewery Company (their clam chowder was amazing, among other things!), and of course, we left with a doggy bag (Americans call it "the box"). Lights out at 2 AM after sharing my photos and text on social media.

I look back on my day—I was worried the long train ride would feel tedious, but we were never bored, completely captivated by what we saw. Tomorrow, we’re heading to Ouray!

J8 September 18. Durango-Ouray

Twin Peak Lodge & Hot Springs: 414 € for two nights including a hearty breakfast. Small refrigerator. The room is really tiny, but access to the hot springs, which are included in the nightly rate, is very pleasant, and we don’t regret choosing this hotel (Anyway, accommodations are expensive in Ouray.)

This day left me with mixed feelings, and I was left wanting more, even though we drove through a stunning landscape!!! I had planned our route with the various points of interest, and... we missed most of them on the San Juan Hwy. We were both paying attention, but we only realized we’d missed them when we reached the next one. Many weren’t signposted, and when we hit the legendary Million Dollar Highway, it was impossible to take photos because the parking spots were on the wrong side of the road (double yellow lines and a very dangerous, winding road). 😞 We decided not to tempt fate and didn’t cross the road to avoid risking an accident or a fine from the rangers.

Durango-Silverton (first part) We left at 8:45 AM with a chilly 7°C. You can tell we’re at altitude and that autumn is slowly approaching. We followed the railway line we took yesterday for quite a while. We even saw the train heading to Silverton. We started missing the old tank that was used to fill the steam train’s water reservoir. No big deal—we saw it yesterday. Our second planned stop was the gorgeous Pinkerton Hot Bridge!!! Well, we didn’t see any signs indicating where to find it, nor the right turn leading to Baker Bridge. By the time we stopped at the first marked overlook, we’d already driven quite a ways—no way we were turning back!! This San Juan Highway is breathtaking. The mountain road offers spectacular views. Andrew Lake, Molas Pass, Molas Overlook, Molas Lake... ...the surrounding mountains, the towering peaks, the lakes, the greenery!! And the aspens turning more and more golden!! It’s absolutely stunning!!! We crossed several passes, some over 3,000 meters high, before reaching the viewpoint overlooking Silverton, which gave us a panoramic view of this little village.

Durango-Ouray (continued)

Silverton - Ouray (Part 2)

We arrive in Silverton where we stroll around quietly before the wave of tourists disembarks from the train, just like we did yesterday while wandering through the old buildings, some of which are characteristic of life in the last century: Historic Alma House, the jail, ..

Shady Lady (former brothel)

Old Square with its old tools and Cowboy decor

We had considered visiting the ghost town of Anima Forks, but since the road to get there is already difficult, and with the rain that fell yesterday, there’s no way we’re setting a wheel on it.

Now for the serious part: the Million Dollar Highway. It was built in the 1880s. It’s 40 km long, but it takes 40 minutes to drive with its narrow lanes, passes over 3,300 m, countless hairpin turns, and sheer cliffs with no guardrails.

We stop regularly along the way. The Red Mountain Pass and especially the Red Mountain OVL with its three red peaks tinted by iron ore!!



It’s breathtaking!! From up high, we admire the remnants of the mining operations that produced lead, zinc, and silver, with the last mine closing in the 1970s (Idarado Mine and Yankee Mine). We continue, missing Crystal Lake. As for Bear Creek Falls, there’s no way to stop there. We arrive in Ouray at 2:15 PM. I’m a little disappointed. DD is less so—unlike me, he doesn’t know what he missed, but hey, you’ve got to keep things in perspective. We’ve still seen amazing places; I have no right to complain!!! While waiting, a quick and very pleasant dip in the hotel’s hot springs and their pools at different temperatures before checking out some historic buildings (Wright’s Opera House, Beaumont Hotel...) of this cute little town surrounded by towering mountains, before heading back to our room to snack on leftovers from the night before. Tomorrow, we plan to walk the Perimeter Trail, a hiking path that loops around Ouray. Well, we’ll go as far as we can—no big deal if we don’t do the whole thing!!!

Hi Martine, I'm boarding! Your itinerary will let us relive part of our trip, so we're thrilled to have the chance to read new travel journals this winter! Wishing you wonderful end-of-year holidays... Sylvain

Welcome Sylvain! 🙂 I’m happy to make a little space for you!! Happy holidays too! Marcalamar 🙂

September 9-19. Hike on the Perimeter Trail in Ouray

The small town of Ouray was founded in 1876, two months after Colorado became a state. Despite its tourist vocation, it has managed to retain its authenticity with its historic buildings and charming Victorian houses. It’s nestled in a glacier-carved valley, surrounded by towering mountains whose peaks reach or exceed 13,000 feet. It’s also a town of water and boasts five hot springs that have the unique feature of being sulfur-free. We planned two nights here to tackle the Perimeter Trail hike. This roughly 6-mile loop with 1,600 feet of elevation gain is a scenic trail that circles Ouray, offering stunning views of the town and mountains as you climb higher. - The trail starts near the Visitor Center, where we had no trouble finding parking. It’s much easier to hike clockwise because after a steep initial climb, you get a mix of ascents and descents that help you recover. The trail is well-marked, and you quickly enjoy breathtaking views of Main Street and the surrounding mountains. We walked on varied terrain: steps, railroad crossings, cliffside paths, and stairs. Some small potholes ("giant's kettles")

tall grasses, fir forests, aspen groves, discovering gorges, waterfalls, bridges (seven of them), a tunnel you cross with a flashlight, rivers, including one with golden water, with these mountains as a backdrop (here we cross the Million Dollar Highway to reach the other side of the loop). All this in bear country. The terrain is varied—often rocky and sometimes rugged—with narrow trails and drop-offs never far away (guaranteed thrills), but what a joy to scramble through such landscapes while breathing in the mountain air. Another perk of the trail is that there are several side paths you can take to head back into town and shorten the loop.

A quick dip in the hotel’s hot springs upon arrival, soaking in 104°F waters to relax our muscles! We’ll see in the morning if the remedy worked.

Dinner at Ouray Brewery. Tomorrow, we’re off to Cortez.

D 10 September 20 – Ouray to Cortez

Days Inn by Wyndham: 229 euros for 2 nightsMotel very well located for visiting Mesa Verde National Park (20 minutes from the hotel) with a Jacuzzi, pool, and breakfast served at 6 AM, plus a fridge, microwave, and coffee machine. However, the welcome wasn’t very friendly (they refused to give us the room at 3 PM instead of 4 PM even though it was ready).

Departure at 9:25 AM. Despite the 17°C, it feels colder than yesterday because the sky is completely gray. We follow the Uncompahgre River and its pretty yellow waters. After a few kilometers, the mountains disappear, giving way to red rocks and prairies where cows and horses graze. A short stop in the charming little Western town of Ridgway. It’s adorable with its old buildings, museum (I love its prison wagon), and its park with huge trees where a market was taking place. We bought our picnic lunch there, but we couldn’t find the murals or the old fire station. Stop at the San Juan Mountain scenic view, where you can see the San Juan Mountains in the distance. The aspen and fir forests reappear. We follow a small river winding between golden trees and red cliffs with a few firs. A quick detour to Telluride, the former mining camp that has changed a lot. Like its sisters Ouray, Cripple Creek, Victor, and Silverton, it has turned to tourism to avoid becoming a ghost town. While it’s nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains over 4,000 meters high with a stunning landscape—just like Ouray— the resemblance ends there. Too fancy, too crowded, too many restrictions (parking banned everywhere), and too expensive (over $4.50 per gallon of gas—they’re crazy!). That’s not our thing!!! We wanted to take the gondola to get closer to the mountains, but we couldn’t find a single parking spot!!! We drove around a bit, took photos of a few buildings, and were glad to get back on the San Juan Scenic Byway. As we gain altitude, firs replace the aspens. We pass Trout Lake and stop at Lizard Head Peak OVL at 4,000 meters. It’s freezing, but the view is worth it. Back on the road. Since we left, we’ve seen jagged peaks, colorful high mountains, lakes, aspen and conifer forests, golden expanses (even the bushes are golden), entire hillsides with different shades of green and yellow, and the occasional red rock.

I’ve never seen such a beautiful road. I spent the whole morning saying, “Damn, that’s gorgeous!” at every turn. The descent continues. More remnants of mines here and there. We follow the Dolores River—no more aspens or mountains, just a plain with large pastures and bodies of water. Plenty of gas in Dolores ($3.37 per gallon). We settle into the motel with 24°C temperatures, a quick dip in the Jacuzzi and pool. Great dinner tonight at Destination Grill for $97 (two grilled meat dishes that were to die for, a beer, and a soda). Tomorrow, we’re heading to Mesa Verde National Park for the day

Day 11: September 21. Mesa Verde National Park

Mesa Verde means "green plateau." This park was established in 1906. It protects archaeological sites where the Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi) lived as early as 550 AD. Initially nomadic, they settled on the upper plateau, developing agriculture. They built the first pueblos (villages), and by the late 12th century, they began constructing these complex cliff dwellings. This civilization lasted about a century and a half. No one knows exactly why the several thousand people who lived in these numerous semi-troglodyte villages—some with up to 150 rooms—abandoned them (drought, famine, wars?) to move toward Arizona and New Mexico. These dwellings are between 700 and 1,400 years old, and once again, it’s moving to walk through these places steeped in history. Our hotel is in Cortez, a small town located a few dozen kilometers from the park entrance. The park consists of two sectors very far apart from each other: Wetherill Mesa (closed to visitors, and we wouldn’t have had time to explore both anyway) and Chapin Mesa with Mesa Top Ruins Road.

We arrived at the park at 8:10 AM. We had booked a tour of Balcony House at 11 AM. We made stops at various viewpoints along the road that winds up the cliff in wide switchbacks, giving us a view of the immense plain below. We see mesas and vegetation that’s almost Mediterranean. We pass Far View without stopping. Right after, we’re surprised to find thousands of charred trees here too. Even though life has returned with low, colorful vegetation and flowers, these skeletons remind us how fragile life is for everyone. We stop at the Mesa Verde Museum to watch a 25-minute film about the lives of these Native Americans (which I didn’t understand at all, but the images speak for themselves) and walk through the museum (interesting). We quickly photograph Spruce Tree House (which isn’t open for visits) because the sky is clouding over and the colors are fading. We’ll come back this evening. Our time slot for visiting Balcony House is 11 AM. We’re supposed to be there 15 minutes early, but we decide not to tackle the Mesa Top Loop right next to it. We’ll do it calmly this afternoon. Balcony House, which we chose just like Cliff Palace, must be visited with a guide. It’s more fun with its ladders (one 10-meter and two 5-meter ones),

its stone steps,

a small hole to crawl through,

and its narrow passageways. Since we don’t speak English, Cliff Palace, with its many rooms, provides a lot of explanations we wouldn’t have understood otherwise. We really enjoyed it, and even though I was scared at times, I never felt unsafe. The guide was very friendly, and we followed along with great pleasure, even if I only understood a few phrases here and there.



The tour lasted a little over an hour and fifteen minutes. All the interesting visits are grouped in this small section of the park, and the afternoon was dedicated to different spots: Soda Canyon Overlook (where you can see the Balcony House cliff), which we walked in about 35 minutes round trip, Mesa Top Loop (where you can stop at various viewpoints and admire the deep canyons or the remains of small dwellings), and Sun Point View (where you can see Cliff Palace).

And finally, on the way back, Cedar Tree Tower, also surrounded by the skeletons of trees. Everywhere, clinging to the cliffs, you can see remnants of dwellings, often very well preserved. We could’ve walked a bit more to visit Far View Site, but tomorrow should be a busy day, so we decided to head back. Last stop at Park Point Overlook, with its fire watchtower and breathtaking panorama. We returned to the hotel at 4:20 PM, thrilled with our day. The park is vast—we covered 134 km today, even though our motel is only 17 km from the park entrance. Tomorrow, we’re heading to the Needles! We’ll see what we’re up for.

Dinner was very good and hearty for $87 at Fiesta Mexicana.

Hi Martine,

Out of all the small towns in Colorado, we loved Victor and Silverton the most for their tranquility and authenticity! 😉

Sylvain

Hi Martine. I’m jumping in late, but I’m happy to follow a new travel journal. There are very few places I know—so many ideas left to pick from! 😊 We loved Mesa Verde.

Happy New Year, Martine! It's always so nice following your travel journals. 🙂

Thanks Laurent, that’s really kind of you!! Best wishes to you too. Martine 🙂

Hello forum friends! 🙂 Best wishes for 2025, with lots of wonderful things for you and your loved ones. Be happy! Take care of yourselves. Martine 🙂

Day 12, September 22: Cortez to Monticello via the Needles

Abajo Lodge: 84 € without breakfast We fell in love with this little motel on the way to Moab. Super quiet despite being close to the road. Fridge, microwave, and most importantly, the option to leave all our luggage in a room as soon as the front desk opened at 9 a.m.

Looking back, the planning wasn’t ideal for including the "Chesler Loop Park" hike in the Needles. We should’ve only spent one night in Cortez and two in Monticello—not the other way around, like we did. We left Mesa Verde early enough in the afternoon after visiting the park at a leisurely pace, and we could’ve easily added the 100 km between Cortez and Monticello. That would’ve let us leave the Abajo Lodge bright and early, start the hike much sooner, and finish the whole thing. Oh well! This hike was one of the highlights of our road trip. But aside from that little disappointment, our day was amazing.

Canyonlands: Chesler Park Loop hike at Chesler Park (The Needles)

Canyonlands has been a national park since 1964. It’s a wild expanse of canyons, mesas, buttes, ridges, and spires. It’s divided into three very different districts: Island in the Sky (the easiest to access), the Maze (the most remote, only accessible by high-clearance 4x4), and the Needles. Even though this was our third time in the Moab area, we’d never been there before, and I really wanted to explore the Needles—especially Chesler Park. The Chesler Park Loop had been catching my eye for a while. It’s a fantastic, fun hike, but it’s 180 km from our motel to the trailhead, and it’s rated as difficult, with over 17 km and more than 500 m of elevation gain. It’s supposed to take 5 to 7 hours. We don’t hike super fast (I huff and puff on the climbs and get nervous on the descents), I stop every two meters to take photos, and it’s already been 11 days of me putting poor DD through the wringer with all the driving—especially since he’s the only one behind the wheel! There’s no way we’d make it, especially with all that driving. After the hike, we’d still have another 80 km to get to our accommodation, making it 260 km of driving plus a tough hike. I tried negotiating a few times, but no luck. We set the alarm for 6 a.m. and left at 7:15. DD barely ate anything at breakfast—too annoyed about having to argue with me and my stubbornness over this darn hike. As soon as we turned off at Church Rock, the red rocks I love started appearing. No more golden aspens—the giant stone formations of Utah were back. We drove through majestic mesas, each one more beautiful than the last. It’s just as stunning as Monument Valley. The visitor center confirmed the distance, difficulty, and mileage! The road to the trailhead was smooth and easy. But after our visit to the visitor center, I was less sure about my plan. I suggested we start and go as far as we could, still hoping deep down we’d finish the whole thing. We set off at 10:30—way too late! This kind of hike should start early. It began with a steep climb, then alternated between easier ups and downs for a bit. But we were mostly walking on rock, with some rocky or sandy trail sections, so you had to pay attention. Stairs between boulders, narrow gaps, rocks of every color and shape—we followed the cairns, and I was loving it.





We were making good time. Then things got tougher! It just kept going up and up. I came back down to earth—this was too hard for my old bones. When we reached Chesler Park Viewpoint, where the loop starts, we’d only covered 5 km in two hours. We got pretty close to the needles, which you can see in the distance. It’s beautiful. We stopped for a snack. DD suggested we walk a little further. It was 12:30 p.m., and it was really hot. The best part of doing the full loop would’ve been the slot canyon and the cave with the cairns. If we weren’t going to make it there, we might as well turn back—especially since our next stop in Moab wasn’t going to be a walk in the park. Goodbye, Chesler Park! Just a few more photos on the way back. (Ah, those red rocks!) We got back to the car at 3:10 p.m. with the temperature at 26 °C. According to my phone, we’d walked 14 km with all the back-and-forth (personally, I think it was less). No regrets about trying—we probably could’ve finished, but at what cost! I was still in awe of the massive red mesas on the way back. We made a quick stop at Newspaper Rock to see its 650 incredible pictographs, drawn by the Ute, Anasazi, and Fremont tribes—some of them 2,000 years old. The drive back to Monticello took us along the beautiful, flower-lined Hart Draw Road. Since we still had leftovers, we ate them quietly in our hotel room. Tomorrow, we’re heading to Arches National Park, specifically Delicate Arch for sunset! I hope the weather’s nice!!!!

Hi Martine, What a joy to see you here again. Thanks for sharing your trip—I know it well since I followed it with so much interest on FB. I saw you’re planning another one. That’s awesome! Hugs and happy 2025! !

Hi Joëlle 🙂 So glad to see you here too! We’ve just finished booking our hotels for September. I need to wrap up this travel journal before diving into planning my days. Big hugs 🙂

Day 13, September 23: Monticello - Moab: quick visit to Arches National Park and Delicate Arch at sunset Apache Motel: 461 for 3 nights with takeaway breakfast to eat in the room. Small little motel a bit out of the way but really nice with a fridge, microwave, and pool

Today we slept in—we’re only 82 km from Moab, and our accommodation won’t take us before 3 PM, so we’re taking it easy. We left at 10:30 AM with 23°C. It’s a nice change from Colorado’s temperatures, and we’re also going from 2,155 m to 2,227 m in elevation. We’re taking the same road as yesterday. We passed by Rock Church.

We skipped Needles Overlook on the way—the viewpoint is supposedly amazing but too far off the road. We made a quick photo stop at Wilson Arch. This is the third road trip where we’ve passed by Hole n’ the Rock without stopping. Today, we had time. It has nothing to do with the Mormon pioneers’ Hole in the Rock. For 12 years, a dreamer and his wife carved an enormous house (over 450 m² and 14 rooms) into a red rock. After his death in 1957, his wife continued the work and set up a souvenir shop. Both are buried in a small cove in the rock. You can visit a zoo there and take a short outdoor walk to discover all sorts of quirky objects. There are also souvenir shops and pretty flowers. If you’ve got some time to kill (or if you’ve still got a kid’s sense of wonder), the visit isn’t unpleasant.







We arrived in Moab at noon and headed straight to Zax, where we got two huge, delicious pizzas and took two boxes to go—they’ll be our dinner since restaurants in Moab close at 9 PM. Today’s plan: head to Arches National Park to see Delicate Arch at sunset. This park, with its massive blood-red cliffs, has over 2,000 arches sculpted by rain, snow, frost, and extreme temperature swings. They sit alongside rock formations that are each more unique than the last. Since COVID, you have to book your entry time and day four months in advance if you’re visiting between 7 AM and 4 PM (to limit traffic). This is our third visit to this incredible park, and the hike parking lot is almost 30 km from the park entrance, so we decided to stop quickly to photograph the main formations.

Arches Park and Delicate Arch at sunset (continued)

The stops at the various viewpoints are short and often from quite a distance.





However, since we hadn’t been back there in 2023, we decided to pay a little visit to the lovely Sand Dune and its powdery sand.

With Broken Arch in the far distance.

At 5 PM, we left the parking lot and set off for a 2.5 km hike and a good 45-minute climb. You can see the tiny people on the left side of the photo. The cabins of the former Civil War soldier.

We tackle the toughest part.

It’s still pretty easy, though. No more climbing—it’s much more relaxed from here on out.

Delicate Arch at sunset (continued): the wait

It was a bit of a tough climb, but who cares—the reward is at the end of the trail. All we have left is to follow this narrow ledge.



At 5:45 PM, we’re at the top. Even though we saw it last year, this arch (which is the emblem of Utah) with its 20 meters of height still makes us go “wow.”

We’ve got an hour and a half to wait before the sun sets. We settle in quietly in the shade, find a good spot, and have fun watching the crowd of hikers lined up one after another for the souvenir photo.



As the sun goes down, the arch, already red to begin with, changes color and lights up.

Its shadow grows on the rocks beside it.

It’s breathtaking—it’s mild out, we’re taking it all in, the shadow settles into the amphitheater. The arch fades gently, while the Sal Mountains in the distance get dusted with pink.

We wait a little longer, and suddenly, it’s the trail of clouds that turns pink in the sky above it and over the Sal Mountains just behind.

As for where the sun disappeared, a trail of multicolored clouds appears, and the rocks on the horizon stand out like shadow puppets.

But enough of that—we’ve got to leave the spot; dusk has set in. We’ve got our headlamps, but we still have 2.5 km to descend on sloping rock. After 45 minutes of a somewhat tricky descent, we make it down in the pitch black. A couple of Americans without lights followed in our footsteps, and we were happy to share our glow with them.

What an amazing day!!! This park is incredible (like all the ones in Utah, for that matter!!!) Tonight, I’ll be dreaming of red rocks and a multicolored sky!! As for tomorrow, it’s a surprise!!! Canyonlands with Island in the Sky or the hike to Fisher Towers—it’ll all depend on the weather and how we’re feeling!!!

Day 14 – September 24. Moab to Fisher Towers: hike in the Fisher Towers The Fisher Towers are named after a miner who lived near them in the 1880s. The site is unusual—a collection of sandstone monoliths several hundred meters high, shaped by the elements. Each tower has an evocative name (King Fisher, the Titan, Ancient Art, Echo Town, Cottontrail Tower...). If any locals or experts know them well, it’d be great if you could help me identify them!

We wandered around for 4 hours at the base of the towers, sweating and panting, letting our imaginations run wild as we discovered these incredible orange-red gems. But let’s be honest—our fear meter hit zero at times! They’re located about 40 kilometers from Moab.

I’d planned to cross the Sal Mountains and Castle Valley to enjoy the autumn colors, but unfortunately, the road is closed for construction, and no one’s getting through. So, we’ll follow the Colorado River and arrive via the stunning Route 128, with its razor-sharp red cliffs and mesas. A very smooth 3 km track takes us to the foot of the Fisher Towers.

Starting relatively early (at 9:50 AM), we lucked out—most of the paths were in the shade of the towers, which we really appreciated given the elevation gain (1,430 m to 1,653 m).

Castle Valley with The Priest, The Nun, and The Rectory.

We really enjoyed the shade.







At the top, we found a bit of blooming vegetation.

By 1:50 PM, we were back at the parking lot, having walked just over 9 km. Even though it’s stunning and playful with its spires, steep canyons, and its "witch," we found this hike pretty tough, even though it’s rated as moderate. There’s only a 200 m elevation gain between the start and the end of the trail, but it’s a series of ups and downs on slickrock, with some dirt or rocky paths, several narrow ledges with dizzying drop-offs, and even a small ladder to climb to reach the next rock, which you’ll have to scramble up to get back on the trail.

Hiking Fisher Towers (continued)

On the other hand, the view at the end is worth every bit of the effort when you take in the full sight of the towers, the meanders of the Colorado River, and Castle Valley.



Back the same way

,

with just as much delight and 30°C, almost entirely downhill—it was still a bit easier despite the blazing sun and the need to watch your step on the loose rock on the way down. A quick stop in the warm waters of the Colorado to say: “I dipped my toes in!”



at one of the spots where the rafts put in

Some people even paddleboard on the river

After such a great day, we really enjoyed a little relaxation time at the hotel pool.

Dinner at Moab Brewery—excellent as always for $56 for two meals, one soda, and a beer. Tonight, I’ll be dreaming of gargoyles, witches, and fantastical creatures. And tomorrow, the hiking boots stay in the car—we’ll just do a few short walks in sneakers at Island in the Sky.

Day 15, September 25: Visit to Canyonlands (Island in the Sky) and Dead Horse Point

I tried to remember the names of the viewpoints. Impossible to name some, and for the others, I might have gotten them wrong 😅

Canyonlands Park spans nearly 900 square kilometers. It’s divided into three sectors far from each other. The Maze (the labyrinth), which you can only visit by 4x4, is the wildest part. Then there’s The Needles, where we did half our hike a few days ago, and finally Island in the Sky—a vast plateau between two rivers, the Colorado and the Green River, where you can see canyons and cliffs, each more incredible than the last. It’s the easiest to visit, just by following the scenic drive and stopping to enjoy the views from one viewpoint to the next. Like getting to The Needles, the road to the entrance is long (about fifty kilometers from Moab). We were lucky—we only waited about ten minutes to show our America the Beautiful pass to the ranger at the park entrance, but a sign saying “1-hour wait from this point” suggests that at certain times, the line of cars must be impressive.

9:15 AM departure from Moab with a chilly 17°C, but we know it’ll warm up during the day. As soon as we leave the highway, we see some high cliffs like in Arches Park, but in ochre, and the road quickly winds again between grassy prairies and groves. A quick stop at the ranger station, and we’re on the stunning scenic drive. We’ve gone from 1,200 meters in Moab to 1,800 meters. We skip the road to the right toward Upheaval Dome, which doesn’t have many viewpoints and is mostly interesting for hikers (for us, it’s a rest day today), and the one to Mesa Arch, whose parking lot is packed (we saw it in 2017), heading straight to Grand View Point instead.

Candelstick Tower,

Buck Canyon

Orange Cliff? These viewpoints, with such evocative names, offer views as far as the eye can see—mesas, canyons, and buttes eroded by the Green River.



Green River Overlook

We never get tired of it. We’d planned a short, easy, flat walk to Grand View Overlook, but unfortunately, the road is closed and off-limits to hikers, cars, and bikes due to construction. We continue to White Rim Overlook.

We walk a little on the promontory, take a few photos, and head back to the car. I pull out my road book—ugh, that’s where I’d planned my second short walk! I think it was a subconscious act. If I tell DD we have to go back and hike there, he’ll leave me by the side of the road! Oh well, no walk for me—I won’t even suggest it! It’s been two weeks of him driving alone, plus the more challenging hikes I’ve planned. We take a few more photos at the spectacular Green River Overlook. Our last stop is Shafer Canyon Overlook to see the brave (or crazy—you decide) 4x4 drivers tackling Shafer (or Potash) Road and its hairpin turns.

This trail descends 457 meters through a sandstone cliff. Previously used by Native Americans, shepherds, and trucks transporting uranium to Moab, it’s now a 30-kilometer playground for thrill-seeking 4x4 enthusiasts through breathtaking landscapes. To end the day on a high note, we visit Dead Horse Point. This small park isn’t part of Canyonlands—it’s a state park, and you have to pay $20 to enter. There are hiking trails, but the highlight is the overlook, where you can see the Colorado River winding between pinnacles and buttes 600 meters below.



The view is supposedly fantastic at sunset, but even in the early afternoon, it’s well worth the $20 entry fee. The stop at the visitor center is interesting (small museum and views of the potash basins).

It’s almost 3 PM, and we’ve filled our eyes with beauty. Moab is 47 kilometers away! We’ll even have time to rest a bit before dinner. We had a great meal at Pasta Jay’s in downtown Moab. Tomorrow, we leave Utah and its mild temperatures (still 30°C in the late afternoon) for Colorado.

Hi Martine,

Of course I’m still following you! Thanks for bringing back such great memories...

Moab and the surrounding area—even after spending 12 nights there over several trips, we’re still amazed and will definitely go back someday 😉 You’ve made me want to return to Fisher Towers, which we only briefly explored in 2014 when the kids were little. I realize now we barely scratched the surface, and it looks like a really fantastic hike—but one to plan for an April trip rather than summer... In July 2023, there’s no way we could’ve done it, with daytime temps between 104°F and 108°F.

Last stop at Shafer Canyon OVL to watch the brave (or the crazy—I’ll let you decide) in 4x4s taking on Shafer (or Potash) Road and its switchbacks

Actually, the descent isn’t that scary... except maybe when you pass another vehicle 😉 Though, I wasn’t the one driving, so !

Hi Peggy 🙂 Wow, Moab—we’ve spent 9 days there over several trips, and we still love staying there just as much! We adored Corona Arch, almost as much as Delicate Arch. As for Fisher Towers in September 2023, I’d read somewhere that there was a short photo trail (which we never actually found, by the way) right at the start of the hike. We set off like reckless tourists—no water, no trekking poles, in sandals and sneakers—and started climbing! A little further, a little further, a little further, more and more amazed! Then, finally, common sense kicked in, and we turned back after about an hour of scrambling. We were so disappointed to have to descend, but we promised ourselves we’d come back to finish the trail! It’s honestly really beautiful!

Day 16. September 26. Moab - Fruita (UT 128 then Colorado National Monument)

Super 8 by Wyndham: 98 € with breakfast, large room with fridge and microwave. Even though the hotel is in the middle of a commercial area (hotels, restaurants), it’s quiet and close to one of the entrances to the Colorado National Monument.

Moab to Fruita Departure at 8:33 AM. We take the scenic Route 128 again, with its cliffs and little campgrounds along the Colorado River. The sun and shadows play on the rocks and the river—Utah is stunning. I soak in these red rocks. I’ll enjoy them again soon when visiting the Colorado National Monument, but soon it’ll be back to the mountains and the golden aspens. A last glance at the Fisher Towers, still in the shade. Quick stop at the gorgeous Red Cliff Lodge with the intention of visiting the movie museum. Despite explanations from three people, we couldn’t find the museum entrance (ugh!!! I should’ve worked harder on my English in school!!!). No big deal, DD wasn’t too keen on it anyway, so we moved on! We’ll spend our time differently! After passing the wide pastures of the ranches, the road narrows again between the high cliffs until the Dewey Suspension Bridge, Utah’s first suspension bridge, built in 1916 and spanning the Colorado River—but unfortunately destroyed by a fire in 2008.

After the bridge, white rocks and prairies return, followed by a dull, pale desert plain with rock formations that look like petrified dunes.

A few photos of the semi-ghost town of Cisco with its abandoned buildings and old vehicles.



This town, founded in 1880, thrived during the railroad era (it was a water refill station), but the switch from steam to diesel locomotives and the construction of Interstate 70, which bypassed the town, nearly turned it into a ghost town. Large prairie dogs seem to be the only ones left in charge, even though there’s still a general store.

Colorado National Monument (continuing J 16) We leave Cisco. At 10:25 AM, we're on the highway, and less than an hour later, we start exploring Colorado National Monument. Since we’d hiked here in 2017, we didn’t walk this time—just stopped at the viewpoints.

It’s a small park full of color and very quiet, just how we like them. Right from the entrance, you see the red rocks, cliffs cut like a knife, the Pinnacles, and the precariously balanced rocks reminiscent of Arches National Park, plus, a little farther on, the mesas and buttes of Monument Valley. While there are plenty of hiking trails to enjoy, you can just follow the Scenic Drive. The 37 km (23 miles) of this panoramic route, Rim Rock Drive, hugs the hillside and lets you discover incredible landscapes below—thanks to about twenty viewpoints—with steep canyon walls and plateaus featuring striking geological formations shaped by wind, ice, and water.



















Twice, we spot a family of desert bighorn sheep—such a treat!



It’s peaceful, we take our time, the weather’s warm, there are hardly any people, and the views are extraordinary. For the second time, we soak in this little gem before heading back to civilization in Fruita for a nice ice cream at Starbucks near our hotel. A quick dip in the jacuzzi. Tonight, no restaurant—we’re staying in the room, finishing up yesterday’s leftovers!

Day 17. September 27. Fruita to Crested Butte via Kebler Pass

Cristiana Guest House: $413 for 2 nights with breakfast and jacuzzi. A very beautiful chalet, beautifully decorated, practically in the town center of the magnificent town of Crested Butte. Lovely welcome from the receptionist, but the owner was unpleasant. Hearty and tasty breakfast. Hot drinks available all day and cookies in the afternoon. However, the room was tiny (it was the cheapest at over 200 € per night), sold as a Queen but actually a 140 cm bed with a lock that didn’t work properly and electrical wires from a ventilation system without a motor hanging loose—and this had been the case for months.

In 2019, during our stop in Fruita, we bought excellent pies from a small bakery run by young girls in 19th-century outfits (likely part of a community). After finding the address with great difficulty, we were disappointed to see it’s now closed. No pie for dessert—what a shame. We had two options to get to Crested Butte: either via the south and Gunnison or via the north through Kebler Pass at 3,000 meters. Since traffic on US 50 is still an issue (signs warn about it at the junction), we decided to take the northern route. We left at 9 AM. After leaving Fruita, the red rocks disappeared completely, giving way to rounded gray rocks. The road crosses vast plains with a few mountains framing a road that seemed endless. After crossing the Gunnison River, the landscape changed again—ranches, tall trees, horses, cornfields, and orchards. Starting in Hotchkiss, we found the greenery of Colorado we’d come to see, with Moab being the icing on the cake. After Paonia, we drove along the beautiful West Elk Loop. The yellow aspen trees reappeared, along with a few firs on the surrounding hills. Kebler Corner—now the show begins. We had 50 km to take it all in. Very quickly (11:15 AM), we left the pavement for a dirt road—dusty but drivable. The higher we climbed, the more beautiful it got.

We saw cars stopped along the way and lots of people getting out with cameras or phones to try and capture the best shot. The small aspen leaves were swirling and landing on the ground! Even the ferns were golden.





The road was in good condition, and the sun was out. In some places, it looked like the forest was covered in gold.

Elsewhere, other colors joined in.



It was magnificent. The scenery peaked at the pass (3,050 m), then gradually, firs replaced the aspens. 12:20 PM—finally, the road turned back to pavement. We had a little picnic in a town park. Since it was too early to check into the guesthouse, we headed to the visitor center to grab a map for the easy Upper and Lower Loop hike planned for the afternoon.

Hike Upper and Lower Loop (Day 17 continued)

With the easy little hike of the Upper and Lower Loop—just about 7 km with little elevation gain—just a few kilometers from Crested Butte, surrounded by mountains along the Slate River and then completely by golden trees, we were once again amazed by what we saw. We start with a small bridge and then follow the river. A short walk through the fir trees. Everywhere, stunning splashes of color. We tackle the climb. The trail goes right through the aspen trees. We’re walking on gold. No need to decorate the tree—the aspens take care of that.

Our hike lasted about an hour, and it’s more pleasant and easier if you do it clockwise (downhill at the end rather than a steep climb at the start). But we could’ve extended the loop. It can also be done by mountain bike. After this lovely hike, we returned to the lodge where we could settle in quietly for our two nights before heading out on foot to explore the town. Tomorrow, another ghost town and waterfalls are on the agenda.

Day 18, September 28: Around Crested Butte

Planning a chill day today—we won’t be driving far since we’re staying in Crested Butte again tonight, but our legs should still get us around to see what’s happening near the village. We set off at 9:30 AM. It’s already 15°C (59°F), but the thermometer must’ve dropped quite a bit overnight because water keeps dripping from the roof like the sun is melting it. Today’s all about exploring the area around this cute little mountain town—clean, flower-filled, and full of life. We pass by the Crested Butte cemetery, with graves nestled at the foot of the mountains and surrounded by wild grasses. Then we head to the Ghost Town of Gothic for the short Judd Falls hike. This town, which had 1,000 residents in the 1800s, now has just 4. No run-down houses like you often see—just a lot of empty cabins and a visitor center that gave me details about the hike. From there, it’s a beautiful trail winding below a tall mountain with stunning views of the opposite slope.







Golden trees, pink mountains, russet grasses, a winding stream, and the white-speckled trunks of aspen trees… Even after filling up on colors yesterday, we can’t get enough! The hike is easy, though it climbs quite a bit, and the pretty little waterfall at the end is the perfect reward.

After just over an hour and 4.6 km, we’re back at the car and retrace our steps with just as much delight, stopping often to photograph all this beauty.

Day 18 around Crested Butte (continued): Irwin Lake

Picnic on a bench facing the mountains. It's 21°C, we're at 2,900 m altitude, and this frozen dessert of a person is in a T-shirt!!! Amazing!!!



DD’s camera memory card is full (no surprise, we whip out the camera at every turn). We head back to the hotel for a coffee and to grab another one before rushing off to do the loop around Irwin Lake, about fifteen kilometers from Crested Butte.



We didn’t see any beavers, bummer!!!

The walk is easy, and the 45-minute loop is nice, but I’m not sure it’s worth the detour—especially since, even though it’s drivable, the bumpy road leading there isn’t great!!! For those who want to see the tiny waterfall, it’s not far from the parking lot in a clockwise direction. Last photos of Crested Butte and its little houses. We even saw a house being dismantled to be moved elsewhere! Great meal at the Bruhaus restaurant (though I can’t remember the price). Tomorrow, off to Glenwood Springs!!! We’ll take the Kebler Pass again for our enjoyment

The fall colors are absolutely stunning! !

Hi Peggy! 🙂 Honestly, we chose this time specifically to enjoy the autumn colors, though we were still worried we might be too early or too late—but luck was on our side. They were there in all their magical glory. The Kléber Pass and everything around Crested Butte blew us away, especially the walk through the woods among the aspen trees on the Lower and Upper Loop. Have a great weekend! Martine 🙂

Day 19, September 29. Crested Butte - Glenwood Springs

Glenwood Springs Cedar Lodge: 206 € for 2 nights with breakfast. Motel at the entrance of town but quiet, with fridge, microwave, pool, and jacuzzi.

9 AM departure. We fill up our car (3.69 per gallon in a mountain village—what a dream!). Off we go again along the West Elk scenic byway via the 50 km of Kebler Pass, 40 km of which is good dirt road. It seems like in just two days, many aspen trees have lost their leaves.



Some are completely bare now, and even though the road is still stunning, it doesn’t give us the same “Wow” as on the way there. That doesn’t stop us from stopping to take more photos—some spots are still absolutely gorgeous.



As for the other type of tree adding to this autumn spectacle, the gold of their leaves has dulled. They’ve shriveled up, and even though they’re still on the branches, the shine is gone—almost as if dust has settled over them. DD is thrilled to leave the dirt road for the asphalt of the West Elk byway. We drive alongside a nearly dry dam for kilometers, with the river reduced to a tiny stream. Seeing the distance between the two banks, you can’t help but worry about the drought. This road is breathtaking, winding between mountains and valleys. It offers us even more stunning views after Mac Clure Summit—a beautiful mosaic of greens and yellows that would make any painter envious! Quick stop at Hayes Creek Falls (right by the road).

On the other side of the Crystal River.

Crested Butte - Glenwood Springs (continued) Redstone Coke Ovens

No need to go far— the Redstone Coke Ovens are right by the road too. These are the remnants of old coal mining operations. In 1890, at the peak of Redstone’s mining era, over 200 beehive-shaped coke ovens were built. They were used until the early 20th century. Roadside view The back of the ovens The coal from the surrounding mountains was ideal for turning into coke, but less than 10 years later, the mines closed (I won’t tell you why because I don’t know!!), and the ovens fell into disuse. Many deteriorated, others were looted, but 90 ovens are still relatively intact, and some have been restored to their early 20th-century state to preserve the memory of a time when life was incredibly tough for both people and animals. When in operation, the ovens were surrounded by stones like this

Right next to the ovens is the Coal Basin Memorial, honoring the 50 miners who died working in the mines between 1901 and 1990 (the mine operated intermittently until 1991). We have our picnic in Redstone Park, along the Crystal River. This adorable little town, surrounded by blood-red mountains, has little more than a small museum telling its history, a castle, and a single street lined with houses, each cuter than the last.





A sign indicates that this is also bear territory, with guidelines for residents to make coexistence possible.

As we head toward Glenwood Springs, the yellow patches of aspen trees fade, but the red rocks continue to follow us for miles.



At 2 PM, we arrive in Glenwood Springs, and wow—what a shock! We’d gotten used to the quiet, and suddenly there’s noise, traffic lights, multi-lane roads!! We were so happy in our mountains. No way to avoid it—it’s just getting us ready for our return home! A quick stop downtown to buy little gifts for the family and see the Colorado River and the famous large hot springs pools the town is known for. I’d kind of planned to spend a few hours there the next day, but seeing the crowds from the bridge, we decide to skip it and visit a small state park about 45 km north of the city instead. A little more nature will be welcome to enjoy our last few days. After that, some relaxation in the hot tub before dinner.

Day 20, September 30: Rifle Falls State Park

During my planning, I had scheduled a hike to Hanging Lake for this morning. We hoped until last week that we could book a slot, but unfortunately, the construction work on the access trail that’s been going on for several weeks still isn’t finished, and reservations—which were already limited—are no longer available at all. So, I had a Plan B ready. Tomorrow will be a long leg of the trip. I let my driver choose: either head to Ashcroft Ghost Town (180 km round trip) or take it easier and wander around Rifle Falls State Park (just under 100 km round trip). He picks the second option. This little park is a state park, and entry costs $10. It’s 48 km from Glenwood Springs. It’s honestly worth the $10 and the drive to get there. Our GPS, Here WeGo, is in a bucolic mood this morning and takes us along pretty little county roads to get there, even making us pass through two adorable, quaint villages where we spot the start of Halloween decorations.





We also pass by another state park, Harvey Gap State Park, with its colorful lake right by the road.

When we arrive at the parking lot, the tone is set. We hear the thunderous sound of water plunging 21 meters down. Within a few meters, we’re in front of a triple waterfall, in a lush green oasis.

Gorse, moss, a little bridge, the sun playing with the water droplets to give us a rainbow, the calm!!! We’re thrilled.



The mist is flying, and this luxuriant vegetation is really surprising.



Three hiking trails are offered. We take the Coyote Trail, a small 2.5 km loop (no more long hikes) that we complete in an hour. It takes us up, climbing gently, to the top of the high cliffs where the three waterfalls plunge. Along the way, we discover limestone caves where we can venture a few meters in. The master of the place (a face appeared when we looked at the photos). And two small ponds. Before reaching the top of the falls, where viewpoints are set up so we can see them from different angles. We return downhill via a trail reinforced with wooden steps. This little walk is easier in a counterclockwise direction, and the place is really worth the trip.

You can even sneak behind the falls.

Picnic under the park’s trees. An hour later, we’re at the hotel. We’re at the end of our road trip, and my driver is tired. Poor guy, he’s been driving alone for 3 weeks!!! I suggest a little nap, which he gladly accepts, while I take a dip in the jacuzzi. After this well-deserved rest, it’s 4:30 PM, and it’s still 33°C in late September. We head back to downtown for our last errands before treating ourselves to one last indulgence with a grilled meal at Juicy Lucy’s Steakhouse (very good but very expensive). Tomorrow, we head to Georgetown for our last night, passing through Independence Pass. I’m sure the scenery will be amazing once again!!!

Day 21. October 1st – Glenwood Springs to Georgetown (via Independence Pass and Twin Lakes)

Georgetown Lodge: $90 nice quiet motel even though it’s near the highway, with breakfast, microwave, fridge.

Last stop before flying home (ha ha ha, just a little more patience—you’ll soon be rid of me and my yellow trees).

Instead of heading straight north on I-70, we decided to treat ourselves (I’ll admit I pushed a bit since it was longer) and take another beautiful mountain route via Independence Pass, then up through Twin Lakes and Leadville. 8:50 AM we hit the road. A bit of traffic on the way to Aspen (we’d lost the habit), where we saw some gorgeous houses but didn’t stop—our failed Telluride experience left us a bit cold about towns that are too fancy for us. We spotted a whole flock of geese on a golf course, likely stopping over during their long migration. Too bad they weren’t in flight. We found those lovely autumn colors again on the pretty, narrow road leading to the pass.

Once again, we soaked in the views.



We missed Devil’s Punch Bowl (looks like we’ve got a subscription to missing points of interest!!!) and I spared DD the Grotto Trail since her hip was bothering her. This road is truly stunning, offering breathtaking views of valleys, rugged mountains, dense pine forests, clusters of aspen trees, and remnants of an abandoned mine.

Soon we reached Independence Ghost Town (after winding along a small river) We didn’t go down into the valley to explore—just admired it from the viewpoint.

The climb kept going. Finally, we reached the top of Independence Pass: Independence Continental Divide

A chilly breeze was blowing (we were nearly 3,700 m up). I hurried to the viewpoint via a short paved trail winding through the tundra



and took in the surrounding peaks before continuing toward Twin Lakes

Day 21 (continuing Glenwood Springs - Georgetown)

At the bottom of the pass, Twin Lakes is the perfect spot for our picnic.



The road continues along the Arkansas River through valleys and plains with large herds, ranches, and old barns. Leadville, where you can see the charming chaos of this former mining town and its historic buildings. We tackle Fremont Pass and its gently sloping mountains before hitting I-70. By 2 p.m., we’re in Georgetown. Honestly, taking this route to get to Georgetown was a great choice, even if it was longer. This beautiful state of Colorado gave us one last gift by offering us stunning landscapes once again. A quick visit to this cute little town, with lovely buildings—maybe a bit too quiet (I love seeing the younger generations wandering around!!!).

Not many Halloween decorations yet, except at the tourist attraction Georgetown Loop Railroad.

Help, I’m being attacked by a skeleton! The suitcases are packed, last dip in the hot tub before walking to dinner at the friendly and delicious Cooper’s on the Creek, and now we’re ready for our last night in Colorado 😢

Day 22: October 2nd. Georgetown-Denver

Last day of our road trip. As usual, I’m the first one up. Just a few more hours and we’ll be leaving the gentle warmth of Colorado to return to our sunny Var region, with a mistral wind strong enough to rip the tails off donkeys or knock the horns off cuckolds (take your pick) waiting for us on arrival. Our flight is at 5:45 PM, so there’s no rush. Denver is only 73 km away. Knowing DD and his legendary fear of missing the plane, I let him know I’d love to stop in Idaho Springs, a cute little mining town along our route that was our first stop on our 2019 road trip. We had breakfast, we’re ready, so he agrees.

9:15 AM, we’re off. Idaho Springs

We take a few more photos of old mine ruins and look for a spot to walk around downtown since we see lots of houses decorated for Halloween. The big kids we are just love it!!!!









Last picnic by the little river, where an adorable little squirrel lets us take a photo of its cute little face as a farewell gift.

12 PM, we’re back in full-on civilization with its 7-lane highways, buildings, and commercial and industrial zones!!! Gone are the yellows, greens, and reds!!! It’s bone dry!!! I want the mountains, the rivers, and the red rocks!!! Oh, come on!!! Get a grip!!! You’ve been dragging your feet around here for 3 weeks!!! It’s time to go home!!! Last top-up of gas (with a photo of the full tank and receipt, just in case). We return a spotless car after taking it to the car wash (it really needed it after the dust from the last trails we took). From the shuttle, we take a photo of Blucifer, the eerie 10-meter-tall blue fiberglass horse that killed its sculptor during construction and whose eyes glow red at night. I looked for the apocalyptic murals inside the airport (we’d seen them on our last trip), but since it was under construction, they weren’t visible, and all I found were some gargoyles.

5:45 PM, we take off on time. I’ll brush up on my English—or at least try—to my great delight, with a nice and patient American who’s just as chatty as I am.

This loop of nearly 3,400 km by car and 160 km on foot allowed us to discover some wonders of this beautiful state of Colorado, where we’d stayed for a few days in 2019, and also to spend a few days among the red rocks (I couldn’t be so close to Moab without wearing out our soles on the trails of Utah again). This road trip delighted us just as much as the previous ones with the richness and diversity of the landscapes, the kindness of the Americans we met, and the discovery of the colors of the aspen and birch forests was an indescribable joy. And as I often say, no photo can capture the beauty of what we saw or the emotion of what we felt. Sorry for this travel journal being less detailed and complete than the previous ones, but as I mentioned at the beginning, I’ve had much less time to work on it. For those of you planning a trip, if you’re heading to these parts, don’t hesitate to contact me on the forum or via PM. See you soon, friends! I’m here to help as much as I can. Plus, since we’re heading back in September for a trip to Arizona and New Mexico, I’ll need the forum pros as I prepare, so see you soon!! Take care of yourselves. Warmly, Marcalamar 🙂

I just discovered this wonderful travel journal—I love it even more because we took a very similar route just a few months ago, and I’m recognizing so many spots, though not at all with the same colors! Take Kebler Pass, for example:



We’re also regulars on U.S. road trips, big into nature and hiking, but strangely, we’d never set foot in Colorado before.

Combined with about ten days in a kitted-out Jeep to get lost in the plateaus along the river in neighboring Utah—an area we’d already explored quite a bit (in 2019, actually!) but this time we took it even further—it made for a pretty awesome trip for us too, from late June to late July last summer. No fall colors, but with wildflower fields in the Colorado mountains, snow on the peaks (and scorching heat in Utah)...



I can add quite a bit about Crested Butte, where we spent a week tackling some serious hikes, as well as the San Juan Mountains. I could also go into more detail about Canyonlands and the White Rim adventure, even though I think there are already some great tips about that trail on the forum. Plus, I could share some insights on the lesser-known Bear Ears area near the Needles. But I’m not sure how to go about it—should I start a new journal or add to yours?

Hey there, Lapinous! 🙂 So cool to see you here again, Nico!!! We chatted a few years back about 4 nights in Moab for a previous road trip (you were surprised I skipped Canyonlands in 2022) and also in 2015 about Martinique! The little Lapinous must have grown so much since then!😉. Oh, and thanks to you, I did that amazing hike with the 12 or 15 arches in Red Canyon near Bryce. It’s so nice to see the Kléber Pass all green like this!!! Hard to imagine when we’ve seen it all golden!! Feel free to add your road trip after mine if you want!! That’ll make a great summer vs. autumn comparison for the spots we both visited, or you can add to that one or start a new travel journal—whatever works best for you!! Have a great evening! Marcalamar 🙂