Photo Safaris in Kenya

Back on the forum, I’m starting to write up two 3-week trips to Kenya in August 2021 and 2023. In 2021, Quynh and I traveled with Régis (Rjulie95 on VF). Our son joined us in Baringo for the second half of the trip. In 2023, we went with two friends who’d been dreaming of seeing wild animals ever since we got back from Kenya. We didn’t need much convincing to go with them!

The two itineraries are almost identical (well, when you love something...) but we did make a few tweaks.

- The first part of the trip was with a local driver/guide, Félix, who was recommended by Sylvie56. Sylvie and her husband Ben are Kenya enthusiasts—they’ve been there countless times, always with Félix... and for good reason! He’s fantastic!

- The second part was with Melting Pot Safari, an agency that adapted to our photography needs. Tony Crocetta, the co-founder (along with his Kenyan friend Simon Chebon), is a wildlife photographer himself.

Here are the itineraries for both trips, including accommodations:

In 2021: Day 0: Paris / Nairobi - 67 Airport Hotel Day 1: Nairobi / Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 2: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 3: Amboseli / Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 4: Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 5: Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 6: Aberdares / Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 7: Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 8: Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 9: Samburu / Nakuru - Merica Hotel Day 10: Nakuru / Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 11: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 12: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 13: Baringo / Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 14 to 18: Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 19: Maasai Mara / Nairobi – Roussel Guest House Day 20: Nairobi / Paris

In 2023: Day 0: Lyon / Paris / Nairobi - 67 Airport Hotel Day 1: Nairobi / Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 2: Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 3: Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 4: Meru / Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 5: Samburu – Riverside Camp Day 6: Samburu / Buffalo Springs – Samburu Simba Day 7: Buffalo Springs / Ol Pejeta – Sweetwater Camp Day 8: Ol Pejeta / Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 9: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 10: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 11: Amboseli / Nakuru – Lake Nakuru Lodge Day 12: Nakuru / Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 13: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 14: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 15: Baringo / Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 16 to 20: Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 21: Maasai Mara / Nairobi / Paris

Here’s an itinerary—it’s not exactly what we did, but a combination of both.



Ready to join us on safari to see some wild animals?

Departure for Nairobi

We flew with Air France both times because Paris/Nairobi is direct. Otherwise, Kenya Airways also offers direct flights, but they used to cancel them quite regularly, so we didn’t take the risk. As for prices... in 2021, Paris/Nairobi was 1040 €/person, and in 2023, Lyon/Paris/Nairobi was 870 €.

It was summer 2021, and countries were gradually reopening their borders. Covid restrictions were pretty strict—on top of vaccines, we had to apply to the Kenyan Ministry of Health. And we totally understood why, knowing that most of the Kenyan population wasn’t vaccinated.

Of course, in 2023, none of that was needed anymore!

Also, with Air France, in carry-on luggage, each person is allowed one bag plus one accessory (like a laptop bag). Normally, that’s not a big deal—a backpack is more than enough for the trip—but for a photo safari in Kenya... the issue is the camera gear, which is bulky and heavy. So, we were really glad to have two bags per person. However, the weight limit is 12 kg. I made it, but my husband... We stressed out in Paris because at the counter, they were weighing the camera bags and making people remove items to put in their checked luggage. We were lucky—no weighing for us.

In 2023, we flew from Lyon, and they were much more relaxed—they didn’t weigh carry-on bags! Phew!

Anyway, it’s 10 AM, we’re on the plane with all our kilos of gear heading to Nairobi. It’s a daytime flight, so we watch a few movies between meals to pass the time.



The Paris/Nairobi flight takes 8 hours and 40 minutes, so it’s 9:30 PM when we arrive at the airport. There’s only a one-hour time difference with France—that’s really nice about Africa!

After collecting our luggage, a hotel shuttle picks us up as planned, and we’re already stuck in Nairobi traffic. Massive construction is underway, and it’ll be finished two years later, making traffic much smoother.

We arrive at the hotel very late, take a shower, and go to bed, already dreaming of wild animals...😎



The hotel, 67 Airport Hotel, is less than 10 km from the airport—normally, it takes 20 minutes. The value for money is decent (60 € including breakfast), the rooms are spacious but a bit dated. However, the shower water isn’t very hot—just lukewarm... I’ll have to get used to it because that’s pretty common in Kenya 😕.

For those who don’t feel like reading the comments or listening to the chit-chat... The rest is here

Here we go...

Beginner’s question: why Kenya vs. Tanzania (or the other way around)?

True, Tanzania is really tempting too 😉. Actually, our friend Régis had gone on a photo safari in the Maasai Mara, and his wildlife encounters made us really want to go there . We were supposed to leave in March 2020 with Melting Pot Safari, but circumstances took us there in August 2021... and we ended up winning in the end because we went for 3 weeks instead of the one we’d originally planned 🙂.

I’m happily joining in, even though I know what you’re going to say—it’ll bring back some amazing memories! 😊

Lucky you’re boarding with Régis—you were with us in the 4x4 ;). But the other parks in 2023 are gonna be a whole new discovery for you :P

Hi Isabelle, So glad to be back on VF! This story is off to a great start with such beautiful photos already. Can’t wait for the rest! Jacques

Good evening



I’m literally blown away by this “portrait” I’d call artistic! And the other four are just as stunning. Can’t wait to see what’s next!

Thanks Jacques, it’s great to be back on VF 😊. Don’t expect the next update too soon—I haven’t even finished sorting my 2023 photos yet 😅

Of course I'm in—two Vfers for the price of one! Kenya, my first Sub-Saharan African country, was a real eye-opener back in 2010! !

Wow Michel, that’s really kind! 😊 These were picked to make you look forward to what’s next… though the rest might be a lot more ordinary 😄. Still, you might get to see the lion basking in the first rays of sunlight 😄

Hi Isabelle,

I’m signing up for the follow-up 😉 And I’m really interested in your photos. The sample you shared is stunning! You mentioned some heavy gear... Do you use telephoto lenses?

Of course you’re hopping in the 4x4—it’s you who got me back on VF after all! 😄 I’m flattered that even on the other side of the world, you take the time to read my ramblings. 😊

Thanks Kate for joining me in Kenya 😊 Yeah, wildlife photography gear is unfortunately heavy 😅 We usually bring a telephoto lens, a prime lens, plus a wide-angle for landscapes. During the safaris, we don’t carry the gear—it’s just the transport that’s tricky

I’m flattered that even on the other side of the world, you take the time to read my writing 😊

6:45 AM, the day is breaking (or is it dawn?), fingers sliding over the smartphone screen, eyes still heavy from my night 😉

I’m flattered that even on the other side of the world, you take the time to read my writing 😊

6:45 AM, the day is breaking (or is it dawn?), fingers sliding across the smartphone screen, eyes still heavy from my night 😉

And here we are, eyes drooping with sleep over our smartphones, about to close for a good night’s rest 😴

Thanks Kate for joining me in Kenya 😊 Yes, wildlife photography gear is unfortunately heavy 😅 We usually bring a telephoto lens, a prime lens, plus a wide-angle for landscapes. During safaris, we don’t carry the gear—it’s just the transport that’s tricky

We’ve been thinking about Tanzania someday... or maybe Kenya again. I have great memories of our trip to Kruger... back in 2014, even though I was shooting with a bridge camera back then. :(



By the way, your photos are amazing! Could you tell us a bit more about your gear? I’m guessing it’s "high-end," nothing like my hybrid camera (a Micro Four Thirds that’s nice and lightweight). And another question: one body or two? (Swapping lenses in the savanna isn’t exactly recommended.) Thanks

We’ve been thinking about going to Tanzania someday... or why not Kenya. I have great memories of our trip to Kruger... back in 2014, even though I was shooting with a bridge camera at the time. :(



I’m not the one who’ll talk you out of going to Africa... ever since our first trip to Kruger in 2017, we’ve just wanted to go back... we caught the Africanovirus, as Tony Crocetta would say 😄

By the way, your photos are dreamy! Could you tell us a bit more about your gear? I imagine it’s high-end—nothing like my hybrid camera (a Micro Four Thirds that’s great for its lightness). And another question: one body or two? (Swapping lenses in the savanna isn’t recommended.) Thanks

Yep, I have two bodies because with all the dust and the 4x4s completely open, it’s really not recommended to change lenses 😅

As for the gear, in 2021 I was using a DSLR with a 300mm lens on an APS-C sensor, so effectively 450mm, and in 2023 I switched to a full-frame hybrid with a 400mm lens. The second body has a telephoto lens, but I only use it when the animal is too close 😄 If you’d like more details about the gear, I can send you the info in a DM—this is a travel forum, not a photography one 😊, so I’m not sure it’d interest everyone 😄

Hi Isabelle

I’d seen the photos and now I’ve got the text—it’s awesome! 🙂 It’ll bring back great memories with Felix (even if I’m jealous of how amazing your photos are 😉 and also of the luck you had in Samburu, since it was far from our experience 😕). Alright, I’m jumping in too! 😎

Hi Muriel, Reading your travel journal made me want to write my own 😊—clever move, now I’ve got to remember everything 😅😂

since our first trip in 2027 to Kruger, we’ve just been dying to go back… we caught the Africanovirus, as Tony Crocetta would say 😄

Isabelle, you’re time-traveling too 😆😜

I’m not the one who’ll talk you out of going to Africa... ever since our first trip to 2027 in Kruger,

It was before dawn in Grenoble. 😉 But if you keep going back in time, we might see some amazing dinosaur shots. I’m not boarding, but I’m carrying the gear 🙂 (Hey Régis, obviously—two hours later, we’re more awake )

Oops!!! In 2017, my finger was too big for the smartphone 😂

I see some of you are following along 😊—by the way, I’m counting on you to correct and add to my travel journal 😉

I'm not going but I'll carry the gear 🙂

Oh! Cool if you carry my gear next time I’ll bring more. Thanks! 🤗

Hi Isabelle,

Your first photo sets the tone, and I totally get why you chose it to represent yourself. It really makes you want to see more!

Did you do any special editing on these first photos using software? If so, what exactly? Don’t hesitate to share details—no one will say this isn’t a photo forum since it’s part of the travel experience. When you’re curious, you want to know! Plus, some people might want to get inspired for their own trips.

I also noticed that other travel journals inspired you to create your own. Hopefully, this will inspire other readers to do the same!

Yeah Joel, these photos were post-processed 🙂 I use Lightroom and a bit of Photoshop for wildlife shots. I try as much as possible to make the right settings on the camera to get as close as possible to the desired final result. But in these cases, you already need to know the intention you want to convey when taking the shot. So, for the lion, you need to underexpose, and for the giraffes, overexpose when shooting—otherwise, you’ll have to do too much post-processing, and that’s not the goal.

Your first photo sets the tone, and I can see why you chose it to represent yourself. It really makes you want to see what’s next.

That was kind of the point —to make you want to follow this travel journal, but the next photos will be much more informative 😉

Hi Isabelle,

I’m happy to hop in the 4x4! !😎

The lion is stunning, well done!

For Kenya, I don’t know why, but it’s the country with wildlife parks that attracts me the least..😐

Still, I think it’d be easier and less expensive than Tanzania (self-drive version).

I’ve got your whole travel journal to try and change my mind for my autumn 2025 trip! !😉

(What about safety? The *Conseils aux voyageurs* site is pretty alarmist.)

Hi Agnes, Hop on, Agnes, there’s still plenty of room 😛. Thanks for the lion... his nickname is Half Tail 😉. I don’t know if my travel journal will tempt you, but personally, I wouldn’t do Kenya as a self-drive trip... I’m not saying it’s impossible, but the driving seems a bit intense! Lots of trucks on two-way roads, so cars overtake pretty recklessly 😕. We always had a guide and only visited wildlife parks, so we didn’t run into any safety issues in the country 🙂. I know I’m not much help on this, but maybe other VF members have driven around Kenya and can give you some tips .

Hi Isabelle,

Is there still a spot for me in the 4x4?

The photos are really beautiful. Can’t wait for the next ones! !

Of course... there's always room in these big virtual 4x4s! 🙂

Great photos, Isabelle, both technically and aesthetically!

BL

Thanks Bernard! 😊 Wow! An East Africa pro in my travel journal—I’ll have to be really careful about what I say! 😅 I’m counting on you to correct me and add any extra info to what I write—don’t hesitate! 😉

Nairobi / Amboseli

We wake up early—yep, we’ve got a date with African wildlife! 🙂 But first, we meet up with Régis for breakfast. He’d already spent a day at Nairobi National Park with Sylvie and Ben, who were wrapping up their trip with Félix.

So, we take over with Félix Wanight. Félix runs his own agency, La Savane Safari. He has a vehicle specifically adapted for safaris, not just a regular car like the ones we’ve seen transporting tourists on the trails.

Félix is both the driver and guide. He knows the parks we’ll be visiting like the back of his hand, he’s super competent, incredibly kind, and speaks French fluently. I can’t recommend him highly enough. Here’s the team! 😉



Today, he’s joined by David, who’ll be our cook for the first few days of our stay—lucky us! Right, Régis? 🙂



The reportage photos (accommodation, meals, park entrance, etc.) were provided by Régis and Quynh, my husband, since I barely take any photos with my smartphone. And since I wasn’t planning to keep a travel journal, I didn’t take those kinds of shots.

By 8 a.m., we’re hitting the Kenyan roads, heading to our first destination: Amboseli. The road between Nairobi and Mombasa is extremely busy. Trucks line up one after another on a two-way road, with only a few passing lanes here and there. And between those trucks, a few cars and 4x4s try to overtake whenever they can… even when they really shouldn’t. It’s better not to look too closely because we had a few close calls 🏴‍☠️. Fortunately, Félix is very cautious—he only overtakes when he knows it’s safe. As a result, covering the 240 km to Amboseli National Park takes us nearly 5 hours. It’s long, but we arrive safe and sound!



We arrive at the park entrance in the early afternoon. After completing the entry formalities, we head straight to our accommodation nearby. While we settle in, David prepares an excellent meal for us 😎.

The accommodation, Simba Cottage, is managed by KWS (Kenya Wildlife Service). It’s self-catering, which is why we hired David’s services—and it’s absolutely worth it! It has 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a kitchen, and a large living/dining room. It’s not brand new, but it’s very functional, and the best part is that it’s inside the park, unlike the lodges outside.

It’s 3 PM when we climb into the vehicle for our first safari... And like every time in Africa, the magic happens... the animals are there—gazelles, elephants, wildebeest, zebras...🙂



A little family, two mothers with four little ones, comes straight toward us and passes behind the 4x4.



Just before heading back, two cheetahs are on the lookout near the road.

But time’s running out... we have to get back before 6 PM. I pack up my camera gear—what a mistake! Just before arriving at the lodge, a little impala skirmish breaks out. Luckily, Quynh and Régis were quick on the draw!😛



We return from our first outing thrilled, the memory cards well used. After a good meal, we head to bed with plenty of beautiful images in our minds.🙂

The rest is here

Today, we’re joined by David, who’ll be our cook for the first few days of our stay—lucky us! Right, Régis? 🙂

Just thinking about it makes my mouth water 🤤😋🤤

No, okay, I take back everything I thought: Why lug around so many kilos of camera gear when a good smartphone is enough (just teasing ;)) Well, just look at the first 8 photos from Isa for the answer. I'm speechless. Sorry for doubting.

I'm going to steal all the photos for my next African travel journal 😏

No, okay, I take back everything I thought: Why weigh yourself down with so many kilos of camera gear when a good smartphone is enough (I’m teasing ;))

Yes, I completely agree with you... every time I tell myself the same thing when I’m carrying this darn backpack , especially since the iPhone 16 works wonders ;). The problem is that animals rarely come within 5 meters of us to get their picture taken .

Well, just look at Isa’s first 8 photos to get the answer. I’m speechless. Sorry for doubting.

Thanks Bruno Confession made, confession forgiven

I’m going to steal all the photos for my next African travel journal

No need to steal them, Bruno—I can lend you some of the tens of thousands lying around on our hard drives

No need to steal them, Bruno—I can lend you some of the tens of thousands we’ve got lying around on our hard drives

Oh really? In that case, I’d love some too!

No worries Muriel, I’ll share them at the end of the travel journal 😊😊😊

The problem is that animals rarely come within 5 meters of us to get their picture taken Laugh

Unfortunately! 🙁

It reminds me that I’ll need to invest in a lens for my trip to Tanzania (or Kenya, who knows...)

le Simba Cottage

It looks totally fine. 🙂

Why lug around so many kilos of camera gear when a good smartphone is enough (just teasing ;))

You're right, it's the photographer who makes the photo ;) But here, the gear is there to serve the photographer's talent.

The problem is that animals rarely come within 5 meters of us to get their picture taken Laugh

Unfortunately! :(

It reminds me that I’ll need to invest in a lens for my trip to Tanzania (or Kenya, who knows...)

Ah! Photographing animals in their environment isn’t the easiest... proximity is very rare, the wait is often long, and the gear is big and heavy but what made us want to do wildlife photography?

Simba Cottage

It looks totally fine. :)

Yeah, honestly, having been there twice, it’s perfect :) I mention in my review that it’s not brand new, so don’t expect lodge-level quality, but personally, that’s not what I’m looking for ;)

Why lug around so many kilos of photography gear when a good smartphone is enough (just teasing [;])

You're right, it's the photographer who makes the photo 😉 But here, the gear is at the service of the photographer's talent.

Thanks Kate for your comment, that's sweet Actually, I have a friend who has a bridge camera and takes amazing photos because she has the eye. However, she doesn’t photograph animals—she mainly does urban photography, which requires less gear investment.

Ah! Photographing animals in their environment isn’t the easiest... proximity is very rare, the wait is often very long, and the gear is big and heavy but what a crazy idea to want to do wildlife photography!

What would you say if you’d joined Vincent Munier tracking the snow leopard across the Tibetan plateaus, waiting for days on end in the snow and cold, motionless and silent? 😉

The Snow Leopard

Oh! Photographing animals in their environment isn't the easiest... proximity is very rare, the wait is often very long, and the gear is big and heavy but what a crazy idea to want to do wildlife photography?

And what would you say if you had joined Vincent Munier tracking the snow leopard in the Tibetan plateaus, waiting for entire days in the snow and cold, motionless and silent? 😉

The Snow Leopard

Not even a thought for me... I can't handle the cold 🏴‍☠️ I saw the film *The Snow Leopard* and recently the documentary by Frédéric and Olivier Larrey on the same topic. Really, I'm in awe—the cold, the altitude, the wait for just a few moments with this magnificent feline. The wait doesn’t bother me that much, actually. Recently, I spent 5 days staking out lynxes for 11 hours a day, totaling about 15 minutes with them, and honestly, when they’re right in front of us, you forget everything and just snap away 🙂

Today, I took these with my iPhone 15… I won’t tell you (yet, even though some of you know 😉 ) where this is or the name of the bird… But anyway, this is Isa’s travel journal, not the photo contest section, so let’s get back to the topic—well, the savanna animals, that is

Yes, your "over-there" magpie is gorgeous 🙂, the iPhone is amazing... I’m gonna challenge you—take a photo of that bird for me, it doesn’t seem too skittish, in flight at 15–20 m from you 😉

Yeah, your magpie "from over there" is gorgeous 🙂, the iPhone is amazing... I challenge you—get me a shot of that bird, which doesn’t seem too skittish, in flight at 15–20 meters from you [;)

And that’s when the mediocre photographer I am only had this to offer 🙁 Oh, if only I’d brought my DSLR…😉



PS: It’s true, it wasn’t skittish at all…