Nothing’s stopping you from going to Ampefy (Madagascar)

During these three big weeks in Madagascar, one week in Sainte Marie, a few days for a little loop in the west/south, and the rest in Tana. This loop I’m talking about covers an area I’d never taken the time to visit before. A recent road in good condition, the chance to pass through beautiful highland landscapes, and a few free days made it the perfect opportunity. Destination: Ampefy, west of Tana via the RN1, then a turn south onto the recently rehabilitated RN43 to reach Antsirabe before heading back to Tana. Four days planned—perfect, since an extra day wouldn’t have been a problem given all the activities in Ampefy.

First day: a relaxed and fairly late departure for Ampefy. We weren’t in a rush and took our time. Traffic leaving Tana to get back on the RN1 cost us the head start we had on our original schedule. An hour and a half bumper-to-bumper with the *buxis*, inching painfully toward the roundabout and then the bridge that acts as a bottleneck—we dove in like all our fellow sufferers. It’s not our everyday reality, and we were early, so no big deal, but man, it’s long and slow. Once past that obstacle, traffic flowed smoothly, and the road was good (all the way to Ampefy). We moved through highland landscapes, bustling villages full of activity, and countless agricultural supply shops—clear proof, if any were needed, that we were crossing a prime farming region. Around Arivonimamo, we passed through a forest with a Mediterranean vibe: a single-species forest of stout little trees with glossy, elongated light-green leaves—these are *tapia*. An endemic tree in Madagascar, and a pretty unique forest as a result (you can see them elsewhere, like between Antsirabe and Ambositra). There are efforts to protect it from illegal logging because the wood is fire-resistant, which helps shield the forest from wildfires. Beyond its biodiversity value, the *tapia* hosts silkworms, giving it economic and cultural importance.

As we kept going, we started spotting a lake and mountains with the rounded shapes typical of extinct volcanoes worn down by time and the elements. We were approaching Lake Itasy and, by extension, Ampefy. We stopped at a *hotely* for a plate of *tongon’kisoa*—pig’s trotters caramelized by cooking, with thick, flavorful skin—along with the obligatory portion of rice, which we took the time to drizzle with cooking juices to make it a bit more appetizing. Full, we turned left to reach Ampefy and our hotel. The landscape was dotted with collapsed, dormant volcanic cones, and suddenly, the view opened up onto the lake. Shallow and expansive, we followed it, losing sight of it now and then before finding it again in Ampefy itself, which we entered after crossing the Lily, a beautiful river that drains the lake. Lots of hotels and restaurants, with plenty of options at all price points. We chose the *Farihy*, about 5 km past Ampefy. A gorgeous spot by the lake, with a pool and lovely bungalows—some with picture windows overlooking the lake. Really nice. In the evening, a drink and some *sak sak* for aperitif on the terrace. It wasn’t warm, there was a lot of wind, and a storm was brewing. Off to bed quickly to start the next day’s visits.

After buying some lychees—we hadn’t seen many this year, and these were fresh from the field, picked in Ampefy—we headed to the Lily Falls. Well signposted, with a paved road in great condition, we stopped at the kiosk for the entrance fee and parking (1 euro for one *vahiny* and 10 cents for one Malagasy). We set off down the path and quickly reached the first waterfall, then continued for maybe 1 km on a well-marked trail to the second. A guide led us to the third, which is harder to spot and isn’t actually on the Lily itself. Beautiful countryside scenery: fishermen straight out of *Tom Sawyer*, straw hats on their heads, lying down with one foot hooked to a fragile bamboo rod, their line dipping into the calm river. Men preparing rice paddies with their *angady*, women transplanting rice, bent over the water. At some points, we walked along the dikes between paddies almost ready for harvest. It’s peaceful and beautiful when you’re strolling or fishing, but working the paddies is grueling, especially under that beating sun. A really nice walk—2 hours and a bit, going at a leisurely pace. A guide isn’t mandatory; only the entrance fee is. We took one because it provides a bit of work and puts money in the hands of locals, giving them more incentive to protect the site. But you can easily skip it, like most people do. Lots of visitors since it was the weekend—Tananarivians with family or groups of young people, scout groups organized under their chaperones’ direction. Very few foreign tourists, though—that’s a general observation. It’s great to see this growth in domestic tourism, giving Malagasy people the chance to discover their own country and allowing those in the sector to rely less on foreign visitors, who’ve been scarce for years.

Next, we headed to the "geysers" (which aren’t actually geysers, but whatever). We had to go back to the RN1, head toward Tsiroanomandidy, and a few kilometers later, a well-marked sign and a newly paved track led us to a pretty site. Again, lots of people, another kiosk, more fees to pay, and guides available. This time, we skipped the guide. A downpour caught us in front of the "geysers," so we took shelter under a little shop, grabbing an ice cream and some drinks. We didn’t stay long—we weren’t interested in a massage or a dip in the thermal water. The countryside and barren mountain landscapes were stunning on the way back to the hotel. We noticed you could go paragliding right in front of the bungalow, so we booked a session for the next morning. After eating at the *Auberge* in the town center (it was good), we headed back to the hotel to turn in early. Once again, a storm rolled in during the afternoon, and the temperature dropped significantly.

The next morning, around 8 a.m., we walked to the takeoff zone near the hotel. Towed by a small boat, we took off for a flight over the lake and the volcanic domes before landing back at the same spot. Two companies handle this. I’m no expert, but it seemed safe and well-organized.

To be continued...

Since the start of this trip to Ampefy set off something insane—an avalanche of reactions and so much enthusiasm—let’s keep this loop going so the momentum doesn’t fade.

We’re now on the third day after a journey from Tana to Ampefy that took us through a unique tapia forest before reaching the heart of Madagascar’s central highlands, then catching sight of Lake Itasy and Ampefy. The second day was spent wandering along the Lily River and toward the geysers before deciding on a morning paraglider flight. The third day began with a paragliding trip over the lake and extinct volcanoes before heading to Antsirabe. That’s where this post picks up from the previous one.

We hit the road around 10:30/11:00 AM for Antsirabe, leaving Ampefy and the Farihy Hotel after grabbing a quick breakfast in the village. The weather’s still nice, so we soak up the last bits of sunshine and blue sky before the afternoon storms roll in. We take the RN43 until Sambaina, where we join the RN7. It was rehabilitated not too long ago, and the stretch between Faratsiho and Sambaina is even excellent. That said, the first few kilometers from Ampefy to Soavinadriana are a bit of a purgatory—the road’s untouched, just like they say, "authentic." Not great, but thankfully it’s a short stretch that gradually climbs toward Soavinadriana, overlooking rice paddies and, at the start, plenty of chayote plantations (also called christophine or chouchou). This veggie acts like a passion fruit with its tendrils and vertical growth along bamboo trellises. It’s delicious with peanut sauce and also makes jam for pigs that seem to love it.

Once in Soavinadriana, we get back on the rehabilitated portion—it’s not *amazing*, but it’s still really good. Hardly any potholes or badly degraded sections that force you to slow down too much. Until Faratsiho, we cross the Kitsamby Valley, where the river has carved its way through the highlands. We descend steeply at first, with the Kitsamby far below to our left, then cross it on a narrow one-way bridge before climbing higher than we descended to reach Faratsiho, the highest town in Madagascar, in the heart of Vakinankatra. Besides the stunning escarpment of the Kitsamby Valley, this stretch lets you drive kilometers along high moors and hills with likely peaty, poor soil where what’s called *tanety* farming is practiced. The recurring village names with *Tanety* (like Antanety, Tanetibe) confirm it: rainfed crops on slopes or hilltops—upland rice, corn, cassava (which doesn’t yield much here), sweet potatoes, and potatoes (*ovimbazaha*, or "vazaha’s eggs"). Thorny thickets dot the gentle slopes and hills, and the dark soil gives the landscape a somewhat somber tone, especially on cloudy days. In the valleys where it’s possible, newly planted rice paddies brighten the scene with their tender green. We then enter the side of a valley before arriving at a vast irrigated plain fed by several rivers—fifty shades of green. A harlequin checkerboard of fields, canals, rice nurseries, and *dobo* (small dikes), where industrious farmers have used all their know-how to connect every plot in an infernal puzzle. It’s just stunning. We climb a bit more, passing one or two waterfalls, including one dedicated to the Virgin, before continuing to Sambaina. Another area of highlands and peatier soil, the kingdom of corn and forests destined for massive charcoal production. The agricultural landscapes are once again gorgeous, leading to the immense irrigated perimeter of Ambohibory, which signals the junction with the RN7 (we actually drive alongside it on the RN7).

Then we’re back on the RN7—its potholes, traffic, struggling trucks coughing pathetically with every bump, and drivers swerving their minibuses or SUVs to find the best path through the chaos of pedestrians, panicked animals, and frustrated vehicles. Less than 40 kilometers takes over an hour to reach Antsirabe and the Couleur Café Hotel. Well-located on the ring road and just steps from downtown, it has a beautiful garden, spacious bungalows, and large rooms in lovely colonial-style houses. A touch of the past in today’s Madagascar. The large dining room serves family-style meals with Malagasy influences and typical dishes. It’s good but not mind-blowing—slightly disappointing given the hotel’s promise for its cuisine.

The next day, a peaceful walk on the paved streets toward downtown, passing old villas—some restored, some crumbling—the Hôtel des Thermes with its huge garden, grand staircase, and woodwork, the suite where the King of Morocco lived in exile, and the 21st-century wreck of a palace from times gone by. If you look closely, you might find Sleeping Beauty and her slumbering court around a corner. A melancholic stroll that continues to the Baths building and its small lake before heading back to the cathedral via little alleys. It’s beautiful like what once was, and sad like what could be. But there’s no time for nostalgia—life goes on, and it’s the Malagasy who are writing their own history now, as they wish or at least as they can. The lake is now used for washing vehicles, and near the Hôtel des Thermes, there are spaces for kids’ games, money-making, and eating *masikito* with a THB or other drinks. Further on, a bigger festival with countless stalls and human-powered merry-go-rounds where kids play and dream.

We prepare to leave this mirage of the past wrapped in modernity, hoping the journey continues in Antsirabe, a town proud of its history but also of what it will become.

As for the RN7, we’ve seen it all—disastrous sections, especially leaving Antsirabe, and nothing remarkable until Tana anyway. The road alternates between completely wrecked and just not great. Heavy traffic slows everything down in the worst stretches. We stop in Behenjy for some foie gras and in Ambatolampy for a bit of handicrafts before arriving in Tana after 5 hours of driving. Long.

All in all, this 4-day loop is worth trying either as a weekend or 3-day trip just for Ampefy and its activities (there’s *so* much more to do beyond what we did), or for the loop itself to then continue beyond Ampefy via the RN43. In my opinion, this stretch offers the best way to discover the highlands’ countryside and its diverse agricultural landscapes in the most comfortable conditions over such a distance.

I even think the RN7 descent should now include Ampefy—whether you stop there or not—because it lets you arrive in Antsirabe after seeing landscapes you won’t find elsewhere, and in conditions that are easier on fragile backs and vehicles. Instead of Tana-Ambatolampy-Antsirabe, a Tana-Ampefy-Antsirabe route (with or without a stop) might be a good alternative to consider now (and probably even more so after the RN7 takes another cyclone or rainy season).

That’s all for this time—have a great weekend, everyone!

Yeah, I really love the Ampefy area. The good, well-maintained RN1 road, which was in great shape during my last visit (which makes you wonder why some roads stay in good condition while others don’t—RN 2, 4, 5, 6, 7; probably fewer trucks and better construction). It’s got beautiful landscapes with interesting sites all along the way. And the road to Antsirabe is stunning, with what I think is the highest road pass in Madagascar. I thought it was fully finished, but apparently there’s still a rough stretch left. Either way, it’s definitely worth taking if you’ve got the time for the Tana–Antsirabe route.

Hello, great description of Antsirabé—a town I’d kind of forgotten about. It’s exactly like that… like the sleeping beauty, going back to the early 20th century.