Around Cape Town in 15 days in May

Hi there,

I’ve got a bit of time to share my latest Cape Town – Cape Town trip... A fairly short itinerary, but it was just before heading to Kruger for an extension. In May... Honestly, I’d usually recommend a different time to visit CT—I’ve been there in August, September, and October before. But as they say, "Do as I say, not as I do" or "Only fools never change their minds." Why? Whale season peaks from August to October... and seeing whales right by the shore or breaching out of the water is absolutely spectacular. The end-of-year holiday period—take this year, for example—can get absolutely packed, with beaches closed due to overcrowding, etc. June and July are freezing (for me)... early August isn’t always great either. That said, 2024 saw a September-October with rain, cold, and fog like never before. The Postberg section of West Coast National Park (WCNP) is only open in August and September. Flower season is roughly from mid-August to mid-September.

So, May... The weather? Gorgeous (lucky me!). The route... Not super original (I’ve done it before, though it’s been a while). I didn’t go too far from CT because I prefer slow travel. Cape Town – Langebaan (for WCNP, again) – Cederberg (at Mountain Ceder, again) – Bontebok NP (new to me, and on the way) – De Hoop NR (at De Hoop) – Agulhas NP – Boulders (for Boulders Beach and the peninsula, again and again).

The trip started off badly due to storms in Frankfurt... My overnight flight was delayed until the next day, but via Amsterdam, so a daytime flight instead. A bit stressful, but Lufthansa and KLM handled it well. Now it was my turn to sort things out... "Well, I need you to keep the car for me... I’m arriving tonight!" (aroundaboutcars, a Chinese Haval, blue and 4x4—though I didn’t actually need the 4x4... which waited for me).



"Well, I need you to keep my room for me... I’m arriving *very* late tonight." A hotel perfectly located by the lagoon, right by the gates of WCNP, but still close to Langebaan and its restaurants. I spotted it myself and booked it during Black Friday...





Yep, what was normally a short 1.5-hour drive *in daylight* from the Mother City to Langebaan... was now *at night*. And here I am, usually the one telling people, "Don’t drive at night, folks!" Well, I know the route, and Google won’t let me get lost... until Langebaan, that is. The last few kilometers were rough—"Don’t they put up signs? Don’t they have streetlights?"

Alright, it’s late, the day’s been long—time for bed! !

The north coast of Cape Town is quite unknown, yet it’s definitely worth a visit.

Photos of Cape Town from Blouberg, for example, offer a stunning viewpoint.

The coast is rugged, the ocean wild and cold, but it’s beautiful.

It’s a place where you walk, admire, take your time, and breathe in the salty air... You swim when it’s hot!











The WCNP (West Coast National Park) is a stunning park between the ocean and the lagoon. Except for the northern part (only open in August–September), it’s not very dense with animals—mostly antelopes, elks, zebras, ostriches, baboons, tortoises... plus lots of birds, and whales in season.







Floral explosion in August–September! Between this period (August–September) and the end of the year, it’s pretty quiet. Huge traffic jams this year between Christmas and New Year’s. Accommodation is possible through SANParks... but it seems a bit run-down... in a "private village" inside the park or nearby (like Langebaan for us). Watch out—the Gelbek restaurant, which used to be great, is closed! We learned that the hard way—what a letdown! We had such good memories of it. Unique accommodation... you can even sleep on boats moored in the lagoon!*

So WCNP (again) to enjoy... especially since the weather is gorgeous.

Langebaan in the evening at the restaurant!

While it’s a very crowded beach resort at certain times, in May it’s so peaceful... except on Saturday nights when the Saffas from CT and the surrounding areas gather at the restaurant... (by Sunday evening, they’ve all left!). Guaranteed immersion! These are the kind of moments I love.

How to pass for a Saffa? (in this case, white) Obviously, being blond and not too skinny helps. Dressed casually, laid-back... that helps too. Don’t be surprised.

Apart from WCNP? Further up, there’s a village with Greek vibes (Paternoster) that I really like, and Cape Columbine NR with the most beautiful seaside campsite I know.

And?



This is the only cultural center dedicated to the San people in all of Southern Africa... and if I’m not mistaken, in all of Southern Africa (South Africa, Botswana, and Namibia). Plus, all the employees are San or of San descent. So a mandatory detour!

Southern Africa of long, long ago... For australopithecines, the first Homo... I’ll let you dive deeper, just remember that Southern Africa was one of the earliest and most prolific sites for these discoveries. Even recently, this science has advanced with findings along the coast.

Today, we might glimpse the origins of Homo sapiens around the Great Lakes region, then for some, a migration southward, roughly toward the Okavango... and sustained evolution along the South African coast.

The fact is... the first inhabitants of this part of the world were the San or the Khoikhoi. San as hunter-gatherers and Khoikhoi as herders. The arrival of the Bantu via the Angolan coast or from the east (the Limpopo)... They pushed the first inhabitants into the mountains (Drakensberg, Cederberg) and the deserts (Karoo). When the Europeans arrived (April 6, 1652, with Van Riebeeck), there were no Black people at the Cape, only San and Khoikhoi. Contact between Europeans and Black people wouldn’t happen until the late 18th century, if even then. The first peoples are the San and the Khoikhoi... when mixed, they’re called Khoisan. It’s them—the petroglyphs and paintings you find here and there in Namibia and South Africa. Contacts with Xhosa and Zulu peoples introduced clicks into those two languages (3, not 6 to 9 like in San languages).

I’ll dare to make a comparison. The San and the Khoikhoi are the Aboriginals of Black and White Southern Africans (and worse). The great forgotten ones!

The recognition of these peoples is still more than precarious today. Years and years of contempt, unimaginable exploitation...

Anyway... visiting this center. Several activities... workshop on "the ancestral life of the San," tracking workshop, artistic workshop... It’s a center created by a well-meaning European that actually works pretty well. You can have lunch there (very pleasant) or even stay overnight... though I have reservations about the accommodations across the road... For more details: internet and Ikhwattu.

PS: Black, White, Coloured, Indian... it’s not a racist statement in South Africa. It’s a fact. A fact noted on your ID card. What was done with it before, though... A Khoisan doesn’t consider themselves Black at all. As they say, "I’m not Black but brown, I don’t have curly hair"... sometimes with a hint of racial mockery. My longtime readers and new ones interested in this topic will remember or look up my writings on it, especially the last one (my loop around PE, Eastern-Western Cape) where I describe my conversation with a San "guide." PS: PE = Port Elizabeth, or rather now Gqeberha (de-Anglicization of city and region names...).

Plan at least a full day for WCNP. Ikhwattu in the morning and afternoon.

Now, head east towards the Cederberg.

A mountain range of indescribable beauty. Cold in winter and scorching in summer. It’s a return to basics. Landscapes, walks with some solid climbs, San paintings, mysterious rock formations, and a very nice place to stay: Mount Ceder. Several types of chalets, very well equipped—cozy to downright luxurious, let’s be honest, the restaurant isn’t great, but self-catering is an option.

You walk, you admire, you soak it all in...

It's pretty rare to see a travel journal for this area! 🙂

Wasn’t it past lobster season in Paternoster?😛

Hello,

We didn’t make it up to Paternoster this time, but last time we were offered lobsters on the sly several times... Not being entirely sure (it’s a bit like abalone) about any respect for size, season, or even quotas... I turned down the offers.

For the more "novice" readers... the abalone war is very real. Highly sought after by the Japanese, they’re the subject of trafficking and illegal fishing—kind of like elvers in France, but on a more dangerous, mafia-like scale.

Have a great Sunday...

I’m leaving the Cederberg, at my spry pace, for Swellendam and Bontebok NP.

Let’s be clear...

Bontebok is on our route—it’s not an expensive stop at all. In fact, we’ve got a great chalet right by the water, fully equipped for self-catering, and it’s super relaxed for not much money at all. We’d never been there before. It’s not mind-blowing—one day and two nights is enough in my opinion, especially since... it’s not the best season (several fishing spots, swimming). But I’ll say it again: the accommodation is fantastic, the place is beautiful, with easy walks and a short game drive to see Bontebok (though we’ll see ten times more at De Hoop!). The little town of Swellendam is really convenient and pretty clean. The road leading to this area is stunning... especially the Gydo Pass (only downside: it’s under construction, so we had a 1-hour stop both ways).

The chalet by the water



The waterfront



Some Bontebok



A group of Blue Cranes... South Africa’s national bird

Here again, walking is the best way to explore the park, even though you can do a game drive.

Just a quick note.

In the parks, SAN Parks employees—and I think it's the same for KZN Wildlife—can no longer handle cash, so all expenses, even small ones, must be paid by card.

That said... Heading far south to De Hoop. De Hoop Nature Reserve and the De Hoop establishment... Another spot that had caught my eye for a while.

Beautiful accommodations, from luxurious to simpler options, plus well-located camping!





Our accommodation, a bit like at Mount Ceder... a large chalet with self-catering, a big outdoor space, and on top of that... plenty of bontebok, ostriches, zebras, dassies, and hares wandering around you.











Very peaceful, very relaxing, with a view of the huge water reserve (which was dry a few years ago—hard to believe), and not far away, an extraordinary beach with whale sightings in season... a coastal trail... a small, simple restaurant with a breathtaking view (where I scored points because one of the waitresses was Zulu! For beginners, I’ve been learning Zulu for a few years now—kindergarten level, mind you... but it works, and I’m really proud of it). A good restaurant... though we didn’t go there much, preferring our braai.





Some beautiful walks...

a boat tour is offered... we did it, as much to chat with the guides as for anything else... same with the "beach biology" walk...

A really lovely place... 3 nights is perfect.

You’ve got to enjoy getting off the beaten path, appreciate slow living, walks, and braais under the stars...

We met some young French travelers there—inevitable, really—but they reminded me of myself a few years back... Turning into real South Africa enthusiasts...

Hi Michel,

Once you start a travel journal, you don’t waste any time—part of the AFS that’s rarely shared on VF 😮😍

De Hoop is in the Overberg, the next stop after Cape Town for settlers. It's a land of farmers. The massive De Hoop water reservoir was originally built, among other things, to meet agricultural needs. Today, it's become a protected nature reserve teeming with birds and diverse wildlife. Let's head to Agulhas, the dividing line between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Following the whale route along this coast makes it a must-do for hikers and spectators alike.

Agulhas is a small seaside town with a stunning coastline, a lighthouse (currently under renovation), a seaside walk, and a tiny national park further on... So in this order: lunchtime, a stroll along the beach, a quick look at the lighthouse, and then off to the NP.

One foot in the Indian Ocean, one foot in the Atlantic.



Here’s the lighthouse.



Here’s the walk.



Here are the amazing chalets.



And a beach all to yourself.







A truly beautiful stop, perfect for one or even two nights, and very budget-friendly...

On the beach, we ran into two forty-somethings from "la Belle Province."

For just under three weeks in South Africa... Really nice, we chatted, shared stories. Their journey? 15,000 km! Yeah, 15 and three zeros with kilometers after it! I think in less than three weeks they’ve covered almost as much of South Africa as I have in 20 years! Well, everyone does things their own way. It’s one of the dangers of this country. You can get "sucked in" by the distances and all there is to see! Their car? A Clio! Alright, heading to the outskirts of CT. A braai in Boulders, right near the beach.

But first, a lunch break in Hermanus. Sunshine but no whales. But a great restaurant tip!





Closer to the water’s edge, and you’re practically in it. Now just add whales in the background...

Hermanus is very touristy and has grown enormously—even in May.

One of South Africa’s struggles...

Self-deprecation! Especially from the white portion of the population.

It’s getting worse and worse. Nothing’s going right. Our country is corrupt and beneath contempt. And that’s just the start.

Sure, their corruption scandals are something else. And the electricity production situation is dire... except this May—election month! Actually, there are daily power cuts to ease the grid. They tell you, "Tomorrow between 8 AM and 12 PM, no electricity for you." Obviously, that disrupts everyone—work life and tourism too!

Still... which led to a discussion with some South Africans I met in Hermanus: "You don’t realize how much your country has improved since I’ve been visiting for over twenty years!" And they always look shocked. Then I list my most striking examples! It’s true it’s not paradise yet, but huge strides have been made!

Here we are in Boulders! A classic itinerary with yet another visit to the Peninsula and our penguin friends... Just before taking a domestic flight from CT to Hoedspruit (it works out—if you add everything up, it’s not that expensive. In Hoedspruit, you’re at the gates of Kruger National Park, and a rental or transfer car can be waiting for you). Book your tickets directly and in advance, as there aren’t many CT-Hoedspruit flights...





My little tips: Go to Boulders early. Enter through the West entrance, which gives access to a tiny, much quieter stretch of beach (we had the beach all to ourselves with the penguins). Take your time in the Peninsula and explore the little hidden spots. Remember, it can get crowded depending on the season! The baboons seem less present now, but be careful! They know how to open car doors, push you aside when you get out to get in, aren’t afraid of you or kids, know there might be food in your bag, and how to snatch it. So, be *obsessively* careful with these precautions.

Here’s my little tour around CT wrapped up!

What stood out for me?

That even after visiting this area many times, the Western Cape in the sunshine is still stunning! That skipping a few spots made the loop too long, but taking my time was a good call. That wandering around can keep things pretty affordable and still great.

Possible extensions for this kind of itinerary?

There are *so* many, both within the loop and beyond... First off, CT itself deserves several days. I skipped the whole "wine route," the Montagu area, the nature reserves around the Cape, Mossel Bay...

And beyond that... To the north, the Karoo toward Augrabies and KTP via Tankwa Karoo. To the east, Karoo NP, Camdeboo, and Mountain Zebra. Southeast, you’ve got Swartberg, Baviaanskloof, and Addo. Along the coast, Wilderness, George, Knysna, Tsitsikamma, Plettenberg...

In short, plenty of options! (Feel free to dig into other travel journals for these spots, including mine)

Ndlelanhle !

I loved Agulhas and its chalets! 😛

But the weather there was definitely cooler and more humid...🤪

I'm boarding—once you start a travel journal, you don't waste time!

No kidding! Here’s a guy who’s hopping across oceans. 😎

It's excellent!

Always a pleasure to follow your travel journals, Michel, with your own little hidden gems every time. And this time, back to the "secret beach!" Thanks for sharing, and best wishes! !

Well, there you go—travel journal devoured in one sitting! 😉 Thanks, Michel, for reminding me of such great memories in this area

Hi Michel, and thank you for this lovely write-up about a corner of South Africa that brought back memories of our visit to this coast in August-September 2022. We really wanted to see the area you describe so well. I dug up my notes:

02 & 03/09: Headed to Western Coast National Park for the spring wildflowers. There were indeed some flowers, but it wasn’t spectacular. Two nights at OYSTERCATCHER HAVEN in Paternoster. Highlight: Langebaan Beach 04 & 05/09: Off to Cederberg via Lambert’s Bay. Highlight: Lunch at Muisbosskerm http://www.muisbosskerm.co.za/, a simple beachfront restaurant offering an all-you-can-eat fish buffet in every form (sauced, grilled, etc.) We spent two nights at Cederberg Ridge Lodge in Clanwilliam, the world capital of rooibos. A beautiful lodge, but we had bad weather. Visited a rooibos farm (limited interest). Highlight: About 30 km from Clanwilliam, do the Sevilla Rock Art Trail https://www.travellersrest.co.za/ A paid 2-hour walk in a stunning setting. 06 & 07/09: Headed north to Namaqualand Park, staying at Agama Tented Camp, a lovely isolated tent camp. For those who want to see a breathtaking spring wildflower bloom, September is the time to visit this part of the world. This year, the bloom was predominantly orange. Amazing. Highlight: The small mountain road near Garies (50 km, 2 hours) with endless fields of flowers. Note: Only passable with a 4x4. Thanks again, Michel! Loïc

Hi! I visited the Sevilla this year. Turns out I’d been there unknowingly about 15 years ago too. It’s not *that* amazing—after all, the Stradscaves are way prettier, even mesmerizing, with some stunning paintings. This year we got lost on the way there. A young South African couple got tipsy and it nearly turned into a domestic scene before we left. Otherwise, it was cool!😊

Stadsaal Caves—that’s the spot!

When coming from Mount Ceder, you can reach Sevilla via Wuppertal on a stunning first leg by 4x4. Then it’s a dirt track to the main road (at the intersection, there’s a grave from the Boer War). From there, you head to Clanwilliam via the pass.

For those who want to see the flower season… It’s almost a religious experience for many South Africans. There are plenty of websites and groups that track the blooming, giving you routes with even the best times and paths based on the sun and light. Anyway, it’s August–September, different each year. Between Clanwilliam and Port Nolloth, Springbok, Upington. Outside of this season, the first hour is… interesting, the second hour less so, and the fourth hour boring! !