A Trip to Australia: New South Wales

Wednesday, November 15, 2023 Flight Cairns – Sydney Okay, let’s recap. We’ve traveled through Western Australia, the Northern Territory, Queensland, and tonight we’ll be in New South Wales. We’ll even lose an extra hour—and a bunch of degrees! We’re on a flawless journey so far. One of our suitcases is almost two kilos overweight. The guy checking us in gives us a nice smile and decides to overlook the excess baggage fee.

A flight, for once, without a hitch, no delay (just half an hour…). Taxi… We discover our… room… We’ve got a suite like never before on this trip. It’s a posh apartment on the 7th floor—on cloud nine, really! We can’t believe it. 113.26 € per night! The Meriton Suites Mascot Central if you ever find yourself in this city… We even have a washing machine (and it works!). Such a change from the cabins in the west!



We don’t linger, though. We take the metro. Why? Well, yeah, we’re still kids at heart—off to the Opera House, of course!









Restaurant prices have doubled. Even tripled. We reluctantly settle for a pizzeria because that T-bone for 155 AUD (100 €)…

We know how to handle ourselves. There’s a Woolworths right downstairs. And we’ve got a kitchen, remember! And a terrace! We even have huge bats to brighten up our skies!

Thursday, November 16, 2023 Sydney Dom put together the itinerary from his guidebook... First things first, we had lunch on the terrace.

Then we hopped on the T8 metro headed to Circular Quay to start THE recommended walk. 3.5 kilometers that would turn into much more. We let ourselves get swept up by everything within sight—starting at Cadman’s Cottage.



The Museum of Contemporary Art, of course.

With a remarkable installation by Tarek Atoui, a 45-year-old Lebanese artist and sound enthusiast who orchestrates a clever assembly of metal bowls, electrolysis devices, and noise generators. He captures and amplifies the sounds to fill the room with music that truly soothes the soul.

It’s a modern art museum. It’s pretty wild.

The usual silly/provocative stuff from the artist (John Nixon), selling nonsense as long as it’s expensive.

But also little gems like these naïve paintings by Jumaadi, an Indonesian artist based here.

Some “ethnic” art too, with remarkable Aboriginal works.

Gorgeous photographs from the 1970s that immerse us in a world that now feels unreal, even though we lived happily in it. It leaves the—probably false—impression of a lost paradise.

The museum gift shop.

A leftover from the Covid crisis. The restaurant bubble is still in high demand!





We also visited the impressive State Library of New South Wales… The doors…

People study hard here! If you want, I can get you the parliament debates, the 1901 session, pages 11157 to 12548. Some light reading!

I’ve got them all! If you have a preferred year… I even have the golden shovel the Duchess of Whatsit used to inaugurate some little garden in the city…

The library has a “children’s” section where you can learn a bunch of fundamental stuff…



There’s an exhibit on “Australian war films”…

Reading is serious business. The grandeur of the building proves it!

It also houses a museum (yet another one!). Just to clarify, we never spent a single cent to visit these cultural sites, which are necessarily open to everyone! And you’ll run into loads of young students there, easily recognizable by their adorable uniforms.

The library has a real cult following for Shakespeare. He’s represented everywhere.

Then we went to check out the parks—like the botanic garden, for example.



For a change of pace, we hit up the Art Gallery of New South Wales.



A depiction of the iconic image of athletes protesting for Black community rights at the 1968 Olympics—a gesture that got them permanently banned from the international sports scene.

A Roy Kennedy.

Dogs.

Lots of dogs. A neo-hippie Christian Thompson who could totally be an album cover. Videos like broadcasts of real quotes from politicians, highlighting the emptiness of their words.

Raw art in all its glory with Sally M Nangala Mulda.

The Aboriginal influence…

HJ Wedge’s “Stop and think!”…

After that string of museums, we move on to churches! St. Mary’s Cathedral, for example!

The Church is still heavily relied upon to help martyred peoples accept the sacrifice of their children when it comes to war…

Exhausted, suffering a thousand deaths because of shoes that were too tight, the executive heads home in his socks…

We wrap up with the Anzac Memorial… once again a celebration of the “heroes” of wars… waged all over the world… A touch of martyrdom, a bit of heroization… War—both beautiful and tragic at the same time…

Photos that can be beautiful or heartbreaking, showing soldiers returning to their families on leave during the Vietnam War…

“Conquer or die”… That says it all…



They also display a few pinches of the lands where the victims of these slaughters lived…

Afterward… We had dinner “at home,” at Mascot, a Chinese place, since that’s the vibe around here…

Thanks for these travel journals. I’m having a great time reading them.

Ah! The story continues! I’m still following along with pleasure.

Friday, November 17, 2023 Sydney We’re totally at home here. Dom’s doing laundry and ironing…

We’re having brunch on the terrace, then continuing our city tour using the metro, train, and bus! With Google Maps, it’s easy!

We went to see the aquariums at Sea Life…

Then we checked out the land animals at Wild Life Sydney Zoo…

The weather finally cleared up, so we wandered around the city… all the way to the Fish Market! It’s not just seafood—there’s really everything there!

From there, we headed to Bondi Beach…







Hey! All that makes you thirsty, right?



Back at the apartment, we had the massive doggy bag left over from last night’s Chinese takeout. There was a little moment of panic when we realized the microwave was broken. The front desk sent over a super nice kid who let us into a vacant apartment so we could heat up our food… Phew!

Thanks for continuing this travel journal that takes us to a "little" corner of Australia that’s close to my heart 🙂

We’re totally at home here. Dom’s doing laundry and ironing...

Okay, well, your private life isn’t any of our business, but since you were feeling a bit upside down, wasn’t it the perfect chance to switch things up?

Saturday, November 18, 2023 Sydney – Jervis Bay I suddenly realized that picking up the car was way out there! 2 hours of public transport and 35 minutes of driving through Sydney! After a few phone calls, it was sorted—the rental agency changed the contract to make things easier for us. We took the metro to the airport, picked up the car (after a good half-hour bus ride), headed back to the hotel to grab our luggage at reception, and we were off! A remarkable break at Royal National Park with a long walk along its rugged coast on the Tasman Sea. A trek from AllTrails.

In the comments, they warned, "Don’t come in sandals!", Ha Ha Ha, these soft Aussies don’t know what a guy like me can handle in sandals! They also warned us about flies. We were prepared for that too—we brought our nets. Bring it on! Well, I was totally wrong! I felt the first sting at the base of my big toe’s nail on my right foot. Something pretty intense! - Ouch! Something just stung me! - I saw. Probably some kind of horsefly! - A horsefly? You’re kidding! That really hurts! It’s like something drilling into me!

I think about it, then forget (that’s life), and a few minutes later, the same foot gets attacked again. I tense up. And then I get it. The flies, the sandals… It wasn’t at all what I’d imagined!







We arrive in Huskisson after two hours of driving. The hotel’s not great, but it has the essentials: Wi-Fi, a fridge, good bedding, a shower, a TV (for shows!), and space.

Quick, we take care of our basic needs…

What exactly gives you the right to think that this wasn’t, in fact, a role reversal? 😉

A pleasure I'm delighted to share!

Sunday, November 19, 2023 Jervis Bay – Narooma We’re struck by the contrasts with Western Australia. Everything’s different. The landscapes, almost alpine, the industrial zones, the size of the cars… Except for the palm trees, we could be back home. And that’s a shame! Then there are the little details. Their “pigeons,” for example, are parrots with exuberant colors!



And then there’s the sun in November. And the sea (Hyams Beach)!



We set off to do the Munyunga Waraga Dhugan Trail in Booderee National Park…







Then we rediscovered Australia. Bit by bit. First, the flies…

The signs that threaten you with death… And then… the kangaroos! Much less skittish than on the other side of the country!

Everything else came back with us...



After that, we wandered around Murramarang National Park...



The walk starts by going through a campsite literally overrun by the iconic animal...













Phew... All that walking. In the sun... The bartender really took a liking to us. We chatted. Just as we were leaving, he rushed over and jotted down some recommendations for Melbourne, where he grew up... Oh, and also, don’t forget to leave a good review for today’s hotel with its terrace overlooking the sea...

The attentive reader will have noticed that we’re no longer in New South Wales...



I couldn’t figure out how to rename this travel journal. Oh well. I’ll keep going (just a little longer) under this name... Sorry...

Monday, November 20, 2023 Narooma - Merimbula Today, we faced a particularly tricky challenge: It’s raining. For the first time since the start of our Australian trip! Oh well, one day won’t kill us. We can handle it. But it better not drag on! Luckily, the temperatures are holding up for now. We tried to act like everything was normal and headed about 6 kilometers north to walk the Mill Bay Boardwalk. Then it started bucketing down! We gave up. A relentless downpour, cold and not at all tropical—just like the rain back home, the kind that soaks you to the bone and leaves you shivering for hours! But then, a lull. We headed south toward Lake Wallaga to see Camel Rock… Can you spot the camel in there?

Then we followed the trail up into the hills… A lovely walk, with incredible birds (though they were *super* shy—impossible to photograph!).

You can clearly see the horse drinking from the sea at Horse Head Rock, though!

We almost ran over a turtle—the crazy thing—crossing the road! Those Aussies with their massive 4x4s! She had no idea! Luckily, Dom did the right thing! One day, she’ll walk through the colorful flowerbeds of Paradise, and there, a turtle and a whole bunch of little families will come to her and talk to her, because that’s how it is in Paradise—turtles talk. They’ll say: "One day, you saved the life of our ancestor, Mirliton. Without you, we wouldn’t have had life on Earth. You’re our friend now." Yeah, man, stuff like that happens after death—it’s written everywhere. Read up, think about it, you too can discover the truth.



Then we made our way to the picnic spot at Wapengo Lagoon. The drive was full of encounters…



It’s private property but open to the public. You just have to open and close the gates to keep the… ??? Kangaroos!? They’re everywhere!



Once we hit the actual trail, we trudged along for a few kilometers before deciding to bail. Nothing. Not even a bird’s song. Just a desert of dead trees…

We went to check out the Tathra Wharf Lookout. Same deal—it was under construction and had lost all its charm. Plus, the rain came back with a vengeance! We rushed to Merimbula, freezing cold! We’d changed countries!



We broke out our jackets! Then had Thai for dinner—BYO (Bring Your Own). The license for a restaurant to sell alcohol costs a fortune, and it gets passed on in the prices. It’s meant to discourage drinking, of course. The side effect is that, to keep customers, restaurants let you bring your own bottle. It really cuts down on the bill and gives you way more options!

The attentive reader will have noticed that we’re no longer in New South Wales...



I couldn’t figure out how to rename this travel journal. Oh well. I’ll keep going (just a bit more) under this name... Sorry...

I just discovered Jervis Bay Territory. Maps even gets it wrong—when you type "Baie de Jervis," it suggests "Jervis Bay New South Wales."

I'm sorry. I totally went off on a tangent. We're definitely (still) in New South Wales for a few more days. Sorry about that. I need a vitamin boost—my brain’s a little fuzzy...

Tuesday, November 21, 2023 Merimbula - Mallacoota

We zoomed off for a stroll on the Merimbula boardwalk, along the mangroves bordering the oyster farms, under the eucalyptus trees…

We chatted away with a couple of former Poles and a former Irishwoman who’d become Tasmanians… When they got to showing us their koala photos, we made a run for it! Then we headed off to Mallacoota… A really nice campground in a cabin/studio where we had everything we needed.

After unloading our stuff, we went exploring in Croajingolong National Park, which we’d been told was home to the cute little bear we were so eager to see… We tiptoed around as the light faded, faded, with a few rumbles of thunder…

Then it started pouring. Seriously. Buckets of rain…

Well, little koala, not this time… We went to check out the town and its pub, which serves absolutely amazing seafood dishes!

After that, it was vitamin C time, with a (very small) bit of sugarcane extract…

Wednesday, November 22, 2023 Mallacoota - Lakes Entrance We’d woken up yesterday pretty sure we’d spot koalas—every forum was overflowing with “In Mallacoota, they’re falling out of the trees!” But in the end, not a single one in sight. Granted, the day was short, cut short by heavy rain and near-permanent darkness... A bit frustrated, we flipped through the Lonely Planet and scrolled on Google. Everything pointed to Raymond Island. There, for sure, they’ve got ‘em! As part of a conservation effort for this already endangered species, 32 koalas were brought over from Phillip Island in 1953. Since then, they’ve thrived peacefully among a friendly human population... Shall we go see?





Well, gotta admit... We didn’t feel ripped off at all!



A festival!

It’s a real little paradise. Life is teeming here! Along the trail, we also came across an echidna feasting on an anthill! !



As the Americans say, it’s amaaaazing!







We’re heading back in the late afternoon—45 minutes by road to Kalimna Woods Cottages. Once again, we find ourselves in the middle of nature, surrounded by a chic neo-hippie decor that instantly delights us. It’s sooooo romantic!

In the middle of nowhere, right in the heart of the jungle!

Thursday, November 23, 2023 Lakes Entrance - Wilsons Promontory We woke up to some pretty gloomy weather, despite the charm of the place. So, we decided to hit the road. We powered through about 3 hours of driving while listening to podcasts about Lebanese politics. Meanwhile, little by little, the clouds cleared, making way for some beautiful sunshine that we soaked up with delight!





We headed straight to the campground to try and negotiate a room with a toilet—something I’d missed when booking. But it was fully booked. We’d have to do without. I guess their hedges will appreciate the nitrate boost, at least. Besides, they didn’t have internet either. "Just enjoy nature," the girl at reception told me with a smug smile, clearly pleased with her own uninspiring remark. We didn’t stick around. We took a walk along the prettily named Lilly Pilly Gully (named after a common plant around here).













We really struggled to find something to eat. We were ready to drive even more since Google only suggested that, but then we stumbled upon a tiny, unexpected shopping area that saved us the trouble. It wasn’t much, but we managed to get a pint of tap beer and a pizza.

Friday, November 24, 2023 Wilsons Promontory - Melbourne A 2.5-hour drive. They’d warned us about rain, but it came later. Before checking into our room, we managed to take a first walk around this sprawling city, so different from its rival Sydney. Wilder, less polished. To be honest, it’s a bit of a mess! But it’s got charm! !

After the street museum, we checked out the museums with roofs... As expected, it rained... So, the SBS at Federation Square... Gorgeous!

Like this piece by Australian artist Paul Yore, "Fags hate God," which is super provocative!

Or this other sculpture by Ramesh Mario Nithiyendran, "Bi Warrior Figure"

Mark Hilton’s "don’t Worry" is definitely worth a closer look...







Viva Gibb

Robert Rooney

A Self Portrait by Albert Tucker

Rupert Bunny

No comment...

We snagged a luxurious room on the 9th floor, but it’s still no match for the incredible Meriton in Sydney!

Saturday, November 25, 2023 Melbourne We were promised endless rain… Nope! Not a drop fell! So we roamed this city again—it’s like Blade Runner’s Los Angeles! Here, it’s trams instead of the metro. They work just as well, and on top of that, you can scope out the streets and the locals going about their day. We got off at Queen Victoria Market (or something like that).



They sell *everything* (and anything, really)! With Christmas coming up, it gave us tons of ideas. Get ready—you’re gonna *love* it!







Okay, it’s not paradise either…

The city is way more “political” than its sister, Sydney. There’s a bit of tension in the air—protests about femicides, protests about mass surveillance… We’ve got the same concerns pretty much everywhere in the world.

We went to see the exhibition on ancient Jewish culture books at the State Library Victoria. Given the bombings in Palestine, we definitely had to go through security checkpoints with bag searches. Still, it was worth it. They’ve got some really fascinating stuff that’s well worth the visit!









On Saturdays, it’s a battle of ideas.

The wild hope of finally putting an end to the devil that corrupts everything!



Here, nothing is off-limits…

It’s also the international festival of style!

We laugh at French references…



After that, we explored Fitzroy, the trendy neighborhood in the city…

Back home…

And then...

Eyes wide open, mind alert, and pen at the ready. Thanks for this stroll through Melbourne.

P.S. Mentioning Melbourne in an NSW thread is asking to wake up a centuries-old rivalry. You’re living dangerously. 😮

Oh well, actually, the Jervis Bay Territory *does* exist! My reply wasn’t ironic—I was initially going to say we were still in New South Wales, but after checking Wikipedia:

The Jervis Bay Territory (in English: Jervis Bay Territory, JBT) is an internal Australian territory located in the southeast of the Australian mainland. Adjacent to the Tasman Sea, it’s surrounded by the state of New South Wales. It’s the smallest mainland Australian territory by both population and area.

The territory was purchased by the Australian federal government in 1915 from the state of New South Wales to ensure sea access for the federal capital, Canberra, during World War I. It was part of the Australian Capital Territory until 1989, when it separated to become an autonomous territory.

The attentive reader will have noticed that we’re no longer in New South Wales...



I couldn’t figure out how to rename this travel journal. Oh well. I’ll keep going (just a bit more) under this name... Sorry...

I just discovered the Jervis Bay Territory. Maps actually makes the mistake because when you type "Jervis Bay," it suggests "Jervis Bay New South Wales."

Maps isn’t wrong—if you type "Jervis Bay New South Wales," Jervis Bay and Hyams Beach *are* in New South Wales. But if you type "Jervis Bay Territory," you’ll see it’s clearly marked and located just below the bay, where the national park and the village of Jervis Bay are.

Fun fact: only 310 people live in the territory! :)

Hi! I don’t know Jervis Bay or Raymond Island (I didn’t rent a car in Sydney!). They’re cute, those red koalas. And now I get why I didn’t see any black swans on the Swan River—they’ve crossed the country!

Anyway, I’m still loving it, including sharing your meals and happy hours, happy or not! Just a little cold… But hey, we knew that!

See you!😊

The attentive reader will have noticed that we’re no longer in New South Wales...



I couldn’t figure out how to rename this travel journal. Oh well. I’ll keep going (just a little longer) under this name... Sorry...

I just discovered the Jervis Bay Territory. Maps actually makes the mistake because when you type "Jervis Bay," it suggests "Jervis Bay New South Wales."

Maps isn’t wrong because if you type "Jervis Bay New South Wales," Jervis Bay and Hyams Beach are indeed in New South Wales. However, if you type "Jervis Bay Territory," you’ll see it’s clearly marked and located below the bay, where the national park and the village of Jervis Bay are.

Fun fact: only 310 people live in the territory! :)

Thanks for the clarification! I checked it out, and sure enough, Maps is right.