Road conditions: Holguín - Moa - Baracoa

Hi there,

Just a quick update on the state of this road: the unpaved section has been significantly improved. You can now complete the journey in about 4 to 4.5 hours instead of 6. Great news! For me, the most hazardous part is actually the paved section before and after Sagua. It encourages higher speeds, but there are deep, dangerous potholes that appear without warning. Be careful!

I’d also note that despite occasional power outages—which casas and paladares know how to handle—tourism remains perfectly doable. Cuba is still magical! I was just told, with a touch of humor, that the official German government website suggests bringing your own toilet paper and candles… Hmm, maybe an update on rechargeable gear would be in order…

Best,

renaldito

Hi everyone, I’m writing to thank you for the info about the road in Holguín! :)

You're welcome, Suzanne!

renaldito

Hello fellow travelers,

I just redid the route (mid-February 2025). Good news, its condition has improved even more since January, especially between Moa and Maguana.

renaldito

Hi, Has anyone here had firsthand experiences or updates since the shortages worsened in 2025? I’m hesitating about booking my flight ticket for November... Thanks.

I’m also thinking of going back this winter. You’ll find info in a recent discussion by Mondusthan from October 16th under the "Trip Report from Cuba" section. He just spent 2 months there.

Great to hear from you again, Renaldito. Thanks for the info. I’m planning to go back with my partner this time, but not by bike. 🙂

Hi Georgie1,

I just got back from Havana after an 18-day stay from October 8th to 26th.

From Montreal, you have to connect through Varadero Airport. I now break up the airport-to-Havana transfer with a SUPER pleasant stopover halfway, in the historic village of Hershey (Camilo Cienfuegos). Quebecer Anne-Marie has renovated a century-old house there, and every stay feels like a peaceful oasis. Amazing food, pool, impeccable hospitality—I highly recommend it! Casa Cub'Anita.

Life for Cubans remains just as tough, made even harder right now by tropical viruses spread by mosquitoes. It’s absolutely essential to protect yourself properly. That said, the purchasing power of foreign currency hasn’t changed much, despite soaring inflation. As of today, the US dollar exchanges for nearly 500 pesos on the "informal market."

This was my first time staying in Vieja, in the non-touristy part. I discovered some great little restaurants run by the younger generation. Affordable, excellent food, and remarkably friendly service: El Chanchulero (it was about time I checked it out—unbeatable value for money!), El Café, Jibaro...

Cubans are still as warm as ever—bicitaxis, waiters, markets. Speaking the language is a huge plus.

Essentials to download from abroad before you leave: the maps.me offline map app, and the La Nave taxi/moto-taxi app, which is super efficient for getting around the capital.

Sending my best to all my friends in Oriente as the hurricane passes, especially Baracoa. I’m planning to visit this winter.

Cheers!

renaldito

Renaldito, You’re talking about the restaurant El Chanchullero. Back in 2019, it was located in Parque Cristo. It was a fantastic spot, really popular for eating on the cheap. When I passed through Havana in 2023, the place was closed and boarded up. Where’s it located now? It’s possible the same owners just moved to a new spot. Thanks for the info!

It's still the same one, still at Parque Cristo. Highly recommended!

hi, do you know if there are any buses running between Baracoa and Holguin? Thanks for any info you can share about public transport in this region. Best regards

Hi Faroualwest,

There aren’t any buses as such, but shared taxis are available.

From Holguín, the "piquera" (shared taxi terminal) is near the stadium. You’ll need to get there early in the morning to secure a seat all the way to Moa. The taxis are usually jeeps.

Once in Moa, finding shared transport can be trickier, especially later in the day. Recently, I "convinced" a small group of Italian tourists to chip in for a shared ride, which allowed about twenty Cubans to join us on the way to Baracoa.

Often, the price quoted to a foreign tourist will be higher—I personally think that’s fair, it’s all about finding the right balance.

Alternatively, a less budget-friendly option is to arrange a private taxi through your casa in Baracoa—better than booking from a casa in Holguín, since they’ll have a better understanding of the route.

From Baracoa, check with the tourist offices. If there’s a bus scheduled, they’ll know, or they might be able to connect you with other travelers.

Cheers,

renaldito

Thanks for the info. Keep up the good work!

From Moa to Baracoa, there are these little buses called *guagua* (pronounced *wawa*) that make the trip. Payable in CUP.

Thanks!👍