Matsumoto - Shirakawa-go - Magome getaway: what's the best way to get around?

Hello,

What a joy to be back on this forum that I’ve browsed for so many years :-)!

I’m heading to Japan with my partner in November 2025. This will be my second trip there and his first.

I was planning to go from Tokyo to Matsumoto, which I haven’t visited before, and from there, check out Shirahone Onsen and then hike from Magome to Tsumago. However, after reading several travel journals, I’ve realized that the village of Shirakawa-go and its surroundings look amazing. Back in 2006, I visited Takayama, which I loved, but I don’t want to stay there again.

To visit the places mentioned above (Shirahone Onsen, Shirakawa-go, Magome, and Tsumago), I’m thinking that a car might be more convenient than public transport, especially for getting from Shirakawa-go to Magome. Could you confirm if that’s the case? If so, is it easy to rent a car for a few days to do a loop starting from Matsumoto?

Thanks in advance for your valuable tips.

Have a great evening

True, while this itinerary is doable by public transport (not sure about Shirahone Onsen), having a car would be a huge plus. But it won’t be that easy either, as the distances are long.

That said, renting a car is straightforward. I use Tocoo, a reliable and efficient comparison site—the go-to in Japan. If your drop-off city is different from the pick-up (if it’s not a loop), one-way fees are clearly listed. Don’t forget the license translation, either on-site in Tokyo or in advance (more expensive).

As I’ve mentioned before, I always base my trips to Japan around trains since it’s my hobby and one of my main draws to the country—and now my son has taken up the torch. But traveling by train sometimes means taking loops to adapt to existing services, schedules, and to make the most of your itinerary. For the places you want to visit, here’s what I’d suggest (some parts of which I’ve done more than once): - From Tokyo (Shinjuku) by train to Matsumoto (Limited Express "Azusa") - A really interesting route with a fleeting view of the back of Mount Fuji - As I’ve said before, Matsumoto Castle is my favorite. - From Matsumoto to Takayama by bus. - Unfortunately, the bus goes through the tunnel instead of over the ridges - From Takayama, take a round trip to Shirakawa-go by bus or continue to Kanazawa. - But this takes you away from Tsumago-Magome. Another option: - From Matsumoto, head down the Kiso Valley by train to Nakatsugawa. - There are very few trains that stop at Nagiso (the closest to Tsumago), but more frequent buses run from Nakatsugawa to Magome. Plus, it’s pretty unrealistic to find a taxi in Nagiso unless you call one from Tsumago, since I think the local bus company operates them from their garage in Tsumago. (That’s actually how I managed to get back to Nagiso station one afternoon—thanks to a special bus for the dozen or so people with me.) - After visiting Tsumago–Magome, take a train back to Nagoya and stay overnight. - Then head back up to Takayama on an express train via a really scenic line that winds along the hillsides, then continue to Shirakawa-go by bus and either head down to Kanazawa or return to Nagoya. - In Nagoya, I’d recommend visiting the Toyota Museum in Nagakute and the new railway museum at Kinjofuto.

Hi there,

Thanks so much for this info, especially about renting a car—which does make me a bit nervous!

I think it’s actually a good solution, including for other areas that seem a bit off the beaten path.

Hi Claude, thanks so much,

I’m wondering if it’s really worth going out of my way to visit Shirakawa-go and the surrounding area. Tsumago and Magome seem like really pretty villages too (without the thatched-roof houses), and they were my original plan. I’ll look into the public transport options. Thanks again.

Heads up! As with everything shared here—including by me—you’ll want to filter out what’s actually relevant to you. I’ve never been to Shirakawa-go, and I regret it 🙁. On the other hand, there are certain places (or their surroundings or the journey to get there) that are absolute favorites of mine and don’t usually make it into the typical tourist circuits. For example: Towada National Park, Seiriyuji, Enriyūji, Arashiyama (Tenryūji)/Sagano, Matsumoto/Kiso, Ritsurin Park, the ferry ride from Hiroshima to Matsuyama, Takehara, Iwakuni (Kintai-kyō Bridge), Nagasaki (Glover Garden), Kōya-san, ....

I’m wondering if it’s really worth going out of your way to visit Shirakawa-go and the surrounding area.

Yeah, it’s pretty, but you’ve got to make choices. It’s still quite a detour. I was there almost a year ago…



Tsumago and Magome also seem like lovely villages (without the thatched-roof houses), and that was my original plan.

I’d even say Tsumago and Magome are more worth it than the famous hike… if only because part of it is the Nakasendo trail, which you can also find a bit further on in Nakatsugawa and Ena.

Yes, the trickiest part of planning this trip is definitely having to make choices, since Japan seems to have so much to offer (...).

Thanks, I’ll take a closer look at these lesser-known spots since we also love (like many people) getting a bit off the beaten path. We’re mainly looking for a varied trip, more focused on small towns or villages than megacities—but of course, we won’t skip Tokyo and Kyoto! 🙂

« Our main goal is to have a varied trip, more focused on small towns or villages than megacities. » In that case, Matsumoto, Takehara, Iwakuni, Takamatsu, Kurashiki, Tsuyama, Matsue, Onomichi, Kagoshima, or even Nagasaki and their surrounding areas are perfect choices. « Without leaving Tokyo and Kyoto aside, of course. » Tokyo is so diverse depending on the neighborhood that you might sometimes wonder if all of Tokyo isn’t just one big village (Tabata, for example), while other districts are practically cities in their own right (Shinjuku or Ikebukuro, for instance). Don’t forget to head to the Odaiba peninsula with its automated metro that overlooks Tokyo Bay (sit at the front of the train!) or take a full loop around Tokyo on the Yamanote Line train (62-minute ride). Two easy day trips from Tokyo are: 1) Kamakura: Take the train (Keihin-Tohoku or Tokaido Hon-sen line) to Ofuna, then the suspended monorail to Enoshima. After that, take the Enoden tram to Hase to visit the Great Buddha. Then, hop back on the Enoden for Kamakura (2 stops). From Kamakura Station, walk (about 3 km) to Kita-Kamakura Station, stopping to visit one or two of the half-dozen temples along the way. Return to Tokyo by direct train from Kita-Kamakura or Kamakura. 2) Mount Fuji: Take the Kodama shinkansen to Odawara, then head up to Gora with the Hakone-Tozan (and its switchbacks) and continue by funicular and ropeway, with views of Mount Fuji, before descending toward Lake Ashi. Cross the lake by boat, then take a bus to Hakone-Yumoto Station and return to Tokyo via Odawara as you came, or take the Odakyu train to Shinjuku. In Kyoto, I highly recommend dedicating a full day to Arashiyama, visiting Tenryuji Temple and its Zen garden, strolling through the park (which offers lovely views), and exploring the bamboo grove at the back. Get to Arashiyama by tram (Randen) from Shijo-Omiya. A ride on the Sagano Scenic Railway (Torokko train) along the Hozu River from Arashiyama is also a delightful experience. Another great day trip in Kyoto is a circuit combining train, cable car, walking, temple visits, panoramic views, funicular, and metro/tram: head to Demachi-Yanagi Station (by bus 17 or 202, or Keihan train) and take the Eiden train to Yase-Hieizanguchi, then the funicular and Eizan ropeway. Next, walk through the forest (wear good shoes—the trail is full of roots) to Enryakuji Temple, where you’ll get a fantastic view of Lake Biwa. Then, take the funicular back down to Sakamoto, where you’ll catch the train/tram to Hamaotsu, and from there, return to Kyoto (Higashiyama-Sanjo) via the Keihan train/metro.

Hi there. You're right, a car is great. We were there in 2011 with a rental car for 3 months. Since it was $60 per day, we bought a futon, sleeping bag, thermos, etc., and from January 11th to April 10th, we slept 54 nights in the vehicle. The rest of the time, we stayed in business hotels using a card that gave us the 11th night free for every 10 nights. Every evening, we found onsens. It was amazing.

Right now, you’ll benefit from the exchange rate—the yen has dropped.

At Tokyo airport, don’t rent from Hertz—they’re jerks and were charging $1000 extra for snow tires. Nissan included brand-new snow tires.

Safe travels, and if you hear music while driving, it’s just your tires on the tarmac. Cheers, Monique

Thanks for these valuable tips—I’m taking notes! 🙂

We’ve already included Kamakura in our itinerary, but we’re debating whether to stay overnight there instead of doing a day trip from Tokyo. On one hand, it’d mean we don’t have to switch hotels in Tokyo, but on the other, staying in Kamakura might let us enjoy the place without the crowds…

Thanks for your reply.

As for sleeping in the car, it’s really not an option—my partner is 1.96m tall, and very few cars allow for comfortable sleep 🙂

On one hand, this would let us avoid changing hotels in Tokyo, but on the other, staying in Kamakura might (maybe) let us enjoy the place without the crowds...

Good point!!!

But then, we could say the same thing about Odawara.

And there’s nothing stopping us from going to Kamakura first and then Odawara; you just take a train on the Tokaido-Hon-sen line from Ofuna (toward Shizuoka) and get off at Odawara, where there’s a Toyoko Inn 200 m behind the station.