Biking and Beer in Belgium (page 1 of 2)

"The Most Refreshing Way to Travel Around Belgium" This is the title of the guide published by Pierre Pauquay at Éditions HELVETIQ Sàrl, Lausanne, Switzerland, 2023. I set off for Belgium with my camper van and my electric-assist bike, eager to deepen both my theoretical and practical knowledge of this country’s emblematic beverage while exploring the land. This guide became my trusted companion throughout the journey, which took place from June 4 to July 4, 2024. Out of the 40 routes presented, I chose 21, covering a broad swath of Belgium—both Wallonia (14 routes) and Flanders (6 routes), plus one route around the Brussels-Capital region with a visit to the famous Grimbergen brewery. Every route included a stop at a brewery, whether lesser-known or famous, artisanal or industrial, family-run or Trappist. In total, I logged 1,111.2 km of biking over 58 hours and 42 minutes of pedaling, averaging 3 hours of cycling per ride of 55.6 km. I visited 21 breweries, toured a few, and had just one flat tire (I didn’t count the number of beers, but I tasted them all...). I wasn’t always able to park my camper van near the brewery planned for that day’s route, but I made sure to enjoy the famous nectar only after completing the physical exercise required by the loops. Traveling by camper van, I needed routes that formed a loop, starting and ending in the same place. Except in Brussels, I never had to rely on campsites for a safe night’s stay. I always found a welcoming public or private parking spot, secure enough to prepare for the next day’s ride. I discovered Belgium from top to bottom, through hills (not very high) and valleys (very flat and often windy), at my own pace. I stopped whenever a photo caught my eye, grabbed a bite or a drink in the villages I passed through, and often felt like I was truly part of the landscape, in sync with the country’s rhythm and curious to see how people lived... More to come, with photos in a future post... Thanks for reading...

First leg: Tuesday, June 4th in the land of the gnomes of La Chouffe in the Ourthe Valley, Wallonia On my very first outing, I discovered the RAVel (Rail to Bike) network and the node-based cycling system used not only in Belgium but also in the Netherlands. The concept involves a network of quiet routes (greenways, bike paths, country lanes, forest trails, etc.) that lets you explore freely without a map or GPS. Every intersection is numbered and marked with a clearly visible green sign. These signs show the intersection number, the next node numbers, and the direction to follow. Using dedicated maps available at tourist offices or online, you just plan your route and note the node numbers to follow. Once at the starting point, find the first sign and head in that direction. When you reach it, look for the next one, and so on until you arrive. It’s nearly impossible to get lost or take a wrong turn. My guide, *Biking and Beer in Belgium*, lists the node numbers to follow for most of the suggested routes. More info at: www.fietsroute.org or the Fietsknoop01 app. First leg, first brewery in Houffalize, and first beer—La Chouffe—after the visit...

See you later...

Second leg, Wednesday, June 5th, along the route of an old railway line between Belgium and Germany (66.2 km) In the far east of Belgium, the Ardennes massif takes over from the Eifel, one of the most beautiful regions to cycle through. Starting from the Eifel Brewery at the Berterath estate in Büllingen, the route follows the banks of the Our River to reach the German border at Hergersberg. You’ll take the old railway line between Losheim and Wévercé, which was opened in 1912 by the Germans for military purposes.

3rd stage, Thursday, June 6: the grand landscapes ride along the Liège-Bastogne-Liège cycling race route (50 km) The Stavelot region attracts cyclists from all over for its narrow roads, scenic paths, villages, and hamlets, surrounded by vast forests bordering the Amblève River, where numerous streams from the high plateaus flow in. The circuit starts at the Abbey of Stavelot, a testament to the power of the prince-abbots of the Middle Ages. Along the way, the half-timbered village of Bellevaux is home to a small brewery founded in 2005 by a Dutchman who came to spend his holidays in the region. Throughout the year, the brewery produces a brown ale as well as an elegant blonde. The sparkling white ale heralds spring, and in autumn, the Black appears—a bold-flavored beer characterized by its creamy Guinness-like foam!!! These past few days, it’s been raining a lot, and the trails along the Amblève can be quite muddy and slippery.

4th stage: Friday, June 7th on the castle route at the 3 borders (Belgium, Netherlands, Germany), passing by the Grain-d'orge brewery in Hombourg near Montzen (33 km) Between hedgerows and meadows, Montzen lies on the edge of the Herve region; beyond stretch Germany and the Netherlands. A meeting point of three countries—Belgium, Germany, and the Netherlands—and the highest point of the latter, peaking at 327 m above sea level!!! The Grain-d'orge brewery is a craft microbrewery located in the Johnen family farm. They produce a whole range of drinks on-site, showcasing experience, terroir, and flavors: for example, La Canaille, a white beer; La Grelotte, a festive beer; La Brice, the classic blonde beer; and for late evenings, Esprit d'Orge, a liqueur made from their beer distillate... Enjoy in moderation! In the village of Moresnet, there was a calamine deposit that, in the 19th century, the Netherlands and Prussia both claimed. A compromise was reached: the municipality was divided into three territories—Moresnet given to the Netherlands, Neu-Moresnet to the Prussians, and Neutral Moresnet, which held the deposit, lived as a small independent state for over a century until 1919, when the village was renamed La Calamine and annexed to Belgium.

To be continued...

5th leg, Saturday June 8th at apéro time along the Meuse River running through the city of Liège Out for a good time with Beer Bike, a real experience for a bachelorette party...

6th stage, Sunday, June 9th, exploring the industrial heritage and the city of Liège via the RAVel L 212 (82 km) Liège, the capital of a former and glorious principality, offers all the charms of an art and culture city where Latin and Germanic influences intertwine. By bike, you can travel back in time and imagine the era when the Liège basin thrived on coke and coal.

After the ride, the Curtius Brewery is a must-visit haven of peace and delight. In Liège, the name Curtius is synonymous with refinement. It was an old Liège munitions dealer, Jean de Corte (1551-1627), who gave his name to this beer. Born in 2012, it continues to rise among the greatest beers in the kingdom. Curtius is the result of a subtle blend of different barley and wheat malts grown in Hesbaye by a young farmer. This combination gives it a pleasant lightness, while the addition of hops flowers brings a characteristic flavor—bitter, floral, and fruity. Every Sunday morning, brunch at the Curtius Brewery and a tour of the cellar...

The Curtius Brewery is located in Impasse des Ursulines, off Rue Hors-Château, at the foot of the monumental staircase leading up to the Bueren hill.

To be continued...

7th leg: The famous "Blanche de Namur" from Brasserie Bocq in Yvoir, with a visit to the city and citadel of Namur, Monday, June 10

Back in the day, the Bocq River made the fortune of ironmasters. In Yvoir, as along the river, beautiful mansions bear witness to this past wealth. Known for its purity, the Bocq still brings prestige to the region with Brasserie du Bocq, established in 1858 in the village of Purnode. It remains one of the few family-run breweries in Belgium, now led by the sixth generation. The Blanche de Namur, made with orange peel, accounts for half of the production.





The city of Namur lies at the confluence of the Meuse and Sambre rivers—a charming, quiet medieval town with its impressive citadel, which you can reach from the lower town via a modern, speedy cable car...

To be continued...

8th stage, Tuesday, June 11 on the RAVel L150, which includes two impressive tunnels and a bivouac at the Abbey, Brewery, and Saint-Joseph College in Maredsous in the Molignée Valley south of Namur Probably one of the stages I enjoyed the most; everything here is perfect for my happiness: the welcome with motorhome parking, the microbrewery and open bar, a sales point for local beers, a café with decent Wi-Fi, and entertainment created by the young students, both girls and boys from the College. I even got to quietly attend vespers sung in the collegiate church crypt: guaranteed emotions...





The bike tour through the Molignée Valley takes place under a threatening, rainy, and windy sky. To wait out the storm, I can take shelter in the tunnels of the old railway turned into a greenway. During a lull, I also discover the joy of a draisine riding on the old tracks, much to the delight of both kids and adults...



To be continued...

9th stage: La Chinette from the Brasserie de la Lesse by the eponymous river near Rochefort on the RAVel L150, Thursday, June 13

The Lesse flows lazily through the meadows, offering a beautiful scene of the countryside around Rochefort, where limestone rock outcrops blend with the vast landscapes of the Famenne. From bridges to tunnels, the bike route plays with the whims of the Lesse, which keeps winding through the countryside. This unique land, between the Condroz and the Ardennes and only 20 km wide, boasts astonishing biodiversity. Along hawthorn and wild rose hedges, countless fruits flourish under the sun—natural pantries that delight the many songbirds! And birds of prey have found a great space for flying and hunting in the Famenne.

Along the route, Han-sur-Lesse, where I parked my camper for the night at an official service area, is one of Belgium’s top tourist spots. Many visitors, including entire school classes, venture underground to explore one of Europe’s most beautiful caves and stroll through the adjoining wildlife park.







It’s always with joy and the feeling of a day well spent that, once camp is set up, I savor the treasures gathered during my ride or a nice rosé bought from the local grocery store. Traveling solo as I often do, I always raise my glass and say CHEERS out loud, thinking of the people I love and who I sometimes miss—just a little, a lot, passionately...





To be continued...

10th stage, Friday, June 14, on the RAVel L156, whose old line dates back to 1856, with a bivouac in the parking lot of the Chimay Experience at the Abbey-Brewery Notre-Dame-de-Scourmont

This ride winds through the Thiérache, one of Belgium’s most beautiful countryside areas. On the bike paths and greenways that sometimes cross over roads, observing the landscape blends with the countless bird songs as the vast expanses of ponds or the banks of the Oise River—whose source is in the region before flowing down into France—come into view.

In good weather, the town of Chimay is definitely worth a visit; on a gray day like today, I took refuge in a small café after a quick tour of the center. Yet Chimay boasts a history spanning ten centuries: the city was first a lordship, then a county, and later became a principality, established by Maximilian of Austria in 1486. Since then, 28 princes and princesses have continued the lineage of Chimay. The castle, built on a rocky spur overlooking the Eau Blanche, still stands, tightly nestled within the city.







The Chimay Experience was probably the most significant culinary highlight I’ve had during all these gourmet rides. In addition to tasting the three iconic beers of La CHIMAY from the Trappist Fathers, I got to sample the four cheeses aged in the Abbey’s cellars, which also brews the Trappist beers. Thankfully, I was sleeping on-site!!!





To be continued...

11th stage, Saturday, June 15, along the Sambre in the Black Country of Charleroi with a bivouac near the Aulne Abbey-Brewery in the so-called Valley of Peace

After the meanders of the Sambre near Thuin, the landscape shifts to fields and meadows of a largely rural area. The Aulne Abbey is close to the Black Country of Charleroi, yet here, the countryside has been preserved. A landscape painter could capture the charming ballet of barges and pleasure boats passing through the locks, with the romantic ruins of the abbey as a backdrop.

Thuin is built on a rocky spur and surrounded by ancient fortifications. The small town is dominated by its belfry, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Along the quays, you’ll discover the world of inland waterways—a heritage dating back over 10 centuries—with its old red-brick houses.

The villages we passed through haven’t changed much in terms of housing, and the roads are often in very poor condition, leading to rough cart tracks across the fields. On these old wagon paths, your bike wheels take a beating... But around a bend, you’ll find the beautiful Fosteau Castle, a lowland fortress built between the 14th and 16th centuries and still very well maintained today. A real treat for the cycle-tourist...







Another stunning stage on the beer-and-bike route: Aulne Abbey, a vast estate by the Sambre Canal. Much of it is in ruins, but the main building now serves as a VIP welcome and tasting center. Today, a wedding is the focus of the hotel staff’s attention. The craft brewery was once housed in the old stables under red-brick vaults, but production recently moved to its industrial counterpart near Thuin, the Val de Sambre Brewery.







To be continued...

12th stage, Sunday, June 16, in the Hauts-Pays de Mons nature park with an extended brunch at the Brasserie des Rocs in Audregnies A rotten day when I had to cut my bike ride short because of heavy, relentless rain. I took shelter at the café-bar-restaurant of the Brasserie des Rocs, which serves brunch every Sunday morning with tastings of various craft beers produced on-site in a family-run microbrewery—just like dozens of others in Belgium. In particular, the famous MONTAGNARDE 1979, the year this brewery opened.

The region’s dense network of streams inspired locals to build mills since time immemorial. Many have disappeared, but in Audregnies, one of these 12th-century structures became the welcome center for the Brasserie de l’Abbaye des Rocs. Nathalie, the owner, recalls that her grandfather created his beer in 1979 and was the only one at the time: Belgium’s first microbrewery was born. The brews are still made on the heights, where the pure spring water is drawn. The other ingredients are also natural and local, like the Belgian hops grown in the region. The Montagnarde, deep, mystical, and exceptionally refined, ranks among the great *crus* of the Hauts-Pays terroir.





Cheers and bon appétit...

13th stage, Monday, June 17th, along the Scheldt canals with its 10 successive locks for a total elevation change of over 20 m, with a bivouac in Péruwelz, the land of boatmen and the Paix-Dieu from Caulier Brewery Another "mouse-gray" day, as I like to call them; the locals are used to it and it doesn’t stop them from going about their business, heading out for a beer, or playing pétanque with friends under the watchful and protective gaze of Paix-Dieu, the nectar of the region!



The Nimy-Blaton canal is a large waterway accommodating dense traffic of barges and pleasure boats, connecting the Scheldt to the Sambre and Meuse basins over more than 42 km. Upstream, there once stood a large sand hill that had to be excavated. These titanic works were undertaken to avoid transporting coal through the Borinage and France (Mons-Condé canal) and thus escape the taxes. Thanks to this, after passing the Royal Bridge, boats could navigate through numerous locks and reach the Scheldt.





To be continued...

14th stage, Tuesday, June 18, rainy day without biking, featuring a stop at the monumental boat lift of Strépy-Thieu and the Dupont Brewery in Tourpes, Walloon Picardy Still ensuring the waterway connection between the Scheldt and the Meuse, and to accommodate cargo ships of 1,350 tons instead of the previous 600, the four old boat lifts were replaced by a single one, started in 1982 and inaugurated in 2002. It allows covering the 73.15 m elevation difference between the Charleroi-Brussels canal and the Canal du Centre in one go—a true technological challenge, impressive!!!







Walloon Picardy is the region with the highest density of special Belgian beer production. The Dupont Brewery is certainly one of the most iconic, and its flagship product is undoubtedly "La Moinette," a beer with 7.5% alcohol content—a slightly hazy, top-fermented blonde beer with a hint of acidity and a grapefruit taste. In 2005, the "Saison Dupont" beer, a bit smoother and lighter, was declared the "best beer in the world" by the World Beer Awards jury.



To be continued...

15th stage, Tuesday, June 25: Visit to the great Grimbergen Brewery north of Brussels and a grand bike tour of the capital, passing through the European Quarter As everyone knows, beer is 90% water to start with! It all begins with malt (from wheat or barley), which, when added to water, produces wort. This wort is then filtered and sterilized by heating, with hops added for flavor and aroma. Next comes centrifugation, cooling, and finally, fermentation, aided by yeast. After maturation and filtering, the beer is carbonated and bottled...

Every brewer has their own more or less secret recipes. Out of all the breweries I’ve visited, Grimbergen’s "classic" brewing process is the most clearly explained, with supporting texts and diagrams.





Building of the Council and Commission of the European Union



Royal Museum

Former maritime station transformed into a cultural and commercial space

Arc de Triomphe at the entrance to Cinquantenaire Park To be continued...

16th stage, Thursday, June 27, on the route of the Tour of Flanders and in the wheel of Eddy Merckx at the start along the Scheldt, crowned with a little Kriek-Brut at the Liefmans brewery in Oudenaarde Oudenaarde is the starting and finishing point for "De Ronde van Vlaanderen" (Tour of Flanders) as well as the "Eddy Merckx Fietsroute" (cycling route). Both circuits are known for their winding routes and, above all, their cobblestone sections that challenge even the best climbers. It was easy with my e-bike—especially since, in this happy flat country, the hills aren’t actually very long or steep...



A rare fact in the history of brewers: Liefmans, this pleasantly fruity festive beer, was produced for decades by a woman, Rose Blanquaert-Merckx, before being acquired by a large group. This brewery is tied to the Flemish Ardennes, a fertile and orchard-rich land that produces fresh cherries for flavored beers: 13 kg of fruit macerate for a year in a hectoliter of beer to create this delicious and subtle nectar. To be continued...

17th stage, Friday, June 28, without a brewery but at the edge of sacred land with a heavy history in the Yser region and its capital, Ypres A prosperous medieval town, Ypres was thrust into history in 1914: during the four years of war, the city was completely razed, but the Germans never managed to capture it. Today, the fields have turned green again, but the memory remains: the landscape is still imbued with the madness of war—graves, cemeteries, memorials—it’s impossible to be unmoved by these images that haunt the mind...





Pierre Marchand, Lucien Olivier, and so many others, who died for France and our Freedom...

18th stage, Saturday, June 29th: a ride below sea level along the North Sea coast, and camping in Diksmuide, the homeland of the famous Belgian Beer with a capital B—the "oerbier" from the Dolle Brouwers brewery, a life-sized museum! After yesterday’s emotionally heavy day, I needed a change of scenery and to ride toward something lighter and with wide-open horizons. I headed to the coast via country roads below sea level, the polders, whose gentle landscapes contrast so pleasantly with the concrete barriers dominating the beach. Even though it’s not crowded yet, the carefree vibe is already in full swing...



The Dolle Brouwers brewery is tied to a passion for biking: its name comes from the local cycling club "De Dolle Dravers" (the crazy trotters). Four of its members took over an old brewery in the 1980s and had the boldness to age their unfiltered beer in oak barrels!!! The "oerbier", a high-alcohol beer, was born (to be enjoyed in moderation). Speaking of which, I noticed that Belgians generally savor their beers like the French do their grand crus—with delight and without excess.



You can even find cycling jerseys with the oerbier logo. See you later...

19th stage, Monday, July 1st, along the Flanders canals and by the North Sea, passing through Knokke-Le-Zoute and the Ziot-de-Bruges brewery A truly beautiful route through the Zwin Nature Reserve in the flatlands of Bruges. A remarkable network of cycle paths has been set up here, allowing you to reach the heart of Belgium’s largest ornithological reserve. You ride along a high dike with views of the entire estuary. This natural area, surrounded by dunes and connected to the sea by a channel, is home to exceptionally rich wildlife and flora that thrive with the tides and seasons. When the seawater recedes, these mudflats teem with life, providing a feast for an extraordinary variety of seabirds.







To be continued...