St. Lucia and iSimangaliso: Stories from Different Trips

Hello there,



As mentioned in the title, this is a travel journal focused on St. Lucia and iSimangaliso ("this place is miraculous" in Zulu) over various trips spanning about twenty years.

The Elephant Coast stretches from Hluhluwe Umfolozi, through St. Lucia and iSimangaliso, all the way to the Mozambique border near Kosi Bay and Tembe. This region was conquered by the Zulus (for context, in the 19th century, the Zulus were just one Bantu group among many—it was a local Napoleon, Shaka, who was both cruel and inventive, conquering and subjugating all other groups to form the Zulu nation). The Tonga were the big losers in this area, and a certain "animosity" is still very noticeable... With our two guides (one Zulu and the other Tonga), we ran into some Tonga folks—definitely not a warm atmosphere. The Tonga were pushed back into the marshes. Fish traps are their main source of wealth. (iSimangaliso is a lagoon and marshland area with several interconnected lakes—it used to be called Vetland Park, and for good reason.) So, lakes, fishing with fish traps...





Traditionally done with raffia boats



Made from forest raffia



Where we spotted a particularly rare and endemic bird (whose name I can’t remember... and I can’t be bothered to dig through my notes)

Here, those are eagles

And they’re pretty brave because... they’re not far away...





Yet we still swim there... with supervision...



So, between St. Lucia and Mozambique, you’ll find marshes, lagoons, lakes, and coastline, with our Tonga friends, Zulu friends, and—just a bit further up—the Tembe... and their king. (I’m showing off a bit because I got to see a king up close, ate in the same room as him, and even talked to him!)

Originally, the Boers tried to farm there... including sugarcane...

But... between the hippos, snakes, crocs, and malaria-carrying mosquitoes... They lost count of the deaths and disappearances.

The story goes that when Madiba (Mandela) came to power, he passed through the area and convinced them to turn it into a natural space that would attract tourists—and that’s when the big change happened.

And it’s pretty incredible to see how this place has evolved, going from extreme poverty to a certain level of gentrification... How this once "chaotic" area saw shops, roads, and housing spring up (I’m mainly talking about Mtubatuba, the nearby Black town). In fact, in St. Lucia now, the homes that aren’t tourist accommodations can be counted on one hand.

St. Lucia has become a "seaside resort"... very busy during school holidays and certain weekends, increasingly cosmopolitan (20 years ago, speaking French was exotic—now it’s completely ordinary).

So, this area, initially concentrated along the coast, has gradually expanded inland. uMkhuze (a wildlife reserve that now has its own lions), private reserves like Phinda are adjacent... soon why not Tembe and Ndumo... Mozambique is nearby, as are the reserves in Eswatini...

Okay... there are people living in this area... we shouldn’t forget them.

So, iSimangaliso includes spaces under private concessions and areas managed by the community. Note that it’s not part of the areas where the Wild Card is valid.

Now, there are three major "gates": one in the North and two near St. Lucia, defining the Eastern Shores and the Western Shores.

A natural area built around water—flowing, stagnant—but the water circulation makes this the largest freshwater area in South Africa.

Changing climate, human exploitation, and development mistakes have made this situation critical. We came very close to disaster, but today, in St. Lucia, after massive restoration work, the full circulation between the estuary and the sea has been restored (this just happened recently).

Twelve years ago... Dry feet...



Last year...





Watch out, though, buddy...









And even...



So, even if there aren’t lions... stay cautious!

Because now there are lions in the uMkhuze section, but not in this part.

As for the elephants... They move between the Western and Eastern Shores... a large group, the one in the photo, and a group of young, rowdy males without a matriarch to keep them in check. So, approach them with caution (a car was flipped with its occupants inside three years ago). I found myself on a small path



with a 7-ton elephant... both of us surprised... he trumpeted, and I was left speechless. You can go on game drives in both sections. The Eastern Shores are on the land side, and the Western Shores are on the sea side (yes, I know, it’s obvious). You’ll find most of the animals in the photos above and many others... kudus, bushbucks, warthogs, zebras, giraffes, jackals, and in season... whales and turtles. There are plenty of leopards too... still just as "elusive." And hyenas...

Hyenas, the proof!



Unbelievable

So Western shores = Bush

Eastern = Beach and Bush

What’s great is that in several spots, you can get out of the vehicle... to walk a bit or admire the scenery. The game is to head back up toward Cape Vidal and its beach, winding along either the bush side or the beach side of this area.

At Cape Vidal, you’ll often find South African amateur fishermen cutting up and selling their catch... couldn’t get any fresher than that.



The beach is more or less crowded depending on the season... but there’s plenty of space. It’s family-friendly.





The idea is also to swim there... Watch out, the water’s warm from November to the end of March, then it cools down and gets cold... The currents and waves are impressive and dangerous. Sharks aren’t far off...

But at low tide, "pools" form that are really nice, and the waves are less scary.



You can sleep there, and like everywhere, you can have your braai...



In both cases, the big downside is the monkeys...

The vervets that never stop trying to snatch your food and... the Samango monkeys (protected, endemic to this area, and... much bigger!).

So, make several stops before Cape Vidal and enjoy a game drive with breaks!

I love this spot.

A place where you can now find elephants.



A little note about these elephants. The two in the back were sparring a bit... more than just a little. In fact, the ranger’s car you see in the background even backed up a bit—it wasn’t even that close.

In situations like this... you keep a safe distance, engine off, and wait.

Two options: they come toward you... calmly? You’re not in their way? Cool, let them come... Other option: they retreat into the bush.

Here, they’re going to retreat into the bush... but the two troublemakers stay more or less near the edge.

On our side, a South African guy jokingly asks if I’m going first... "You first, gentlemen!" "No way, you’ve got the biggest car!" Which is totally true... So I go. Slowly, staying well to the left, knowing the elephants are on the right... Wouldn’t you know it, some idiot passes in the other direction but way too fast... way too fast! Speed invites speed—you don’t pass behind an elephant without thinking it through, and you don’t surprise an elephant...

Anyway, the idiot does what you’re not supposed to do, the elephant doesn’t like it, turns abruptly, and gives us a little threat charge... The worst part? Right at me! As innocent as a newborn lamb.

Yep, danger can also come from other people’s behavior, sometimes reckless.

Never forget that speed invites speed, and in that game, we always lose because an animal’s reaction time... is always underestimated.

St Lucia itself, as I was saying, is a beach resort... very South African and it’s changed a lot. At the end of the estuary, it’s the starting point for iSimangaliso. Activities: Beach, shore fishing, boat tours on the estuary, Turtle tours in season, Whale tours in season, and... good old South African relaxation. The plan:



The main street where restaurants, shops, and various types of accommodation are concentrated... the rest of the town consists of quiet streets with guest houses.





The beaches



The edges of the estuary where you can see hippos and crocs...



The boat tours on the estuary where hippos put on a show... along with crocs and birds









Particularities:

Hippos are everywhere at night. Walking around St Lucia’s streets carries a real risk. Venturing near the sea or estuary borders on recklessness. Even during the day, mischievous hippos have caused "panic" before. There’s a "port" only on the estuary side. On the sea side, as is often the case, boats are launched using a tractor that drops them in the water, and when returning... well, you just head straight for the beach and run aground!



The crocs are there and very much present... don’t get too close to the banks.

About ten resident leopards are recorded in St Lucia itself... but spotting them is another story!

A while back, yours truly had the bright idea to go kayaking on the estuary (with a guide)... "It’s fun, you’ll see, the crocs often try to bite the paddles!"

My two favorite restaurants: The boat club restaurant and the one on Main Street (Brazza and Ocean Basket).

Final anecdotes: I exchanged money in the Spar owner’s office (he had a big safe like in the movies). I had the honor of leaving the St Lucia post office to applause for my Zulu when I bought stamps there.

Santa Lucia is definitely a great spot. Between the walk at Estuary Beach, the beaches of Cape Vidal, iSimangaliso Park, and a bit farther away, the Hluhluwe or iMfolozi parks, there’s plenty to keep you busy... Special mention for the white rhinos—there are loads in this area!



Just watch where you step ;)

A little addition following recent events... Where’s ape Vidal? It’s iSimangaliso, a park independent of KZN Wildlife, stunning and just a stone’s throw from St Lucia (KwaZulu-Natal, Maputaland). It’s the beach spot at the end of the road on the Eastern Shores. You can swim and fish there... but watch out for the waves, currents, and sharks... There’s a really beautiful game drive where you can get out of your car at certain points, especially at Cape Vidal. Cape Vidal is where there’s a camp with bungalows and camping spots. The vervet and samango monkeys (endemic to the area, and the males are pretty big) can be a bit of a nuisance if you want to have a braai... They’re very persistent and not at all shy... Don’t let them intimidate you, but stay on your guard because their speed at snatching food is remarkable. Anyway... I’m reporting two recent attacks by hyenas... who weren’t messing around... The first one happened at night... a hyena tried to bite a camper’s nose off in their tent... and succeeded. And the other night, a camper returning to their tent in the early hours was violently attacked by two hyenas... he had a close call! So, if you’re camping there, be careful... Measures are going to be taken, but for now, it’s a bit risky.

Hey Michel

All that doesn’t really make me want to camp there (even though we really enjoyed our day in Isimangaliso).