Tips for a 9-day itinerary in southern Morocco

Hi there!

As mentioned in a previous post, we're heading to Morocco in April for 9 days instead of the originally planned 7.

Here's the itinerary I've mapped out to ideally have a complete trip, but I think it might be too ambitious. What do you think? Here's the itinerary (click)

For those who can't open the link: Marrakech (the afternoon of our arrival + 1 day, we’ve already been there without the kids, the goal is not to stay too long) – night Aït Ben Haddou Ouarzazate Skoura – night Oasis de Fint Dadès Gorges Tinghir – night Merzouga – night Zagora – night M’hamid – ideally a night in the desert Agdz Marrakech – night (itinerary via Telouet)

What do you think of this plan? Will it feel too rushed, or is it manageable? Since we don’t know the places, it’s hard to tell if we’ll want to stop everywhere along the way or if there’s enough time to spend at each spot. I’ve included some night-stop assumptions (1 or 2 nights).

We’d love to hear your thoughts! We’re traveling with my wife, a 13-year-old teen, and a 10-year-old. We’ll have our own rental car.

Thanks! !

hi there, I think we can skip Agdz and spend more time in Aït Ben Haddou instead.

Hi there... As I mentioned before, this itinerary is completely crazy given the time you have! You clearly want to see some dunes—no problem—but maybe avoid Morocco’s Disneyland... Merzouga is a nightmare: chaotic, disorganized, and just a mess!!!! Travel times in Morocco are totally unpredictable, so with just 9 days for a round trip, if you want to spend a night in the sand, go for Mhamid and find a local contact to organize it for you. From Marrakech, head to Aït Ben Haddou, then spend the night in Zagora (Ouarzazate isn’t worth it). The "Fibule du Draa" is a well-known spot among 4x4 travelers—great vibe, friendly welcome, reasonable prices, and no pretentiousness... After that, as suggested in the other post, contact the "Esprit Désert" campsite—they’ll set you up for a night in the Chegaga dunes. But if that contact doesn’t seem reliable, the "Fibule du Draa" hotel in Zagora offers the same experience, just farther away and pricier.

Hi there,

If you want some peace and quiet and to see a beautiful oasis, head to Figuig.

Figuig is fine... but it's not exactly around the corner...😏

For 9 days, I’d pick either Merzouga or Mhamid, but I wouldn’t do both. Another thing—the visit to the Finit oasis, coming from Skoura to then head to the Dadès Gorge, doesn’t make sense. Check the map. From Tinghir, you can go see the Todra Gorge.

Thanks everyone!

So, taking your comments into account, here’s what it looks like: Google Maps link I’ve removed Merzouga, so is the itinerary more realistic now?

Marrakech (the afternoon of our arrival + 1 day—we’ve already been there without the kids, so the goal is not to stay too long) – night Aït Ben Haddou Ouarzazate – night (we just want to visit the film studios) Skoura Oasis de Fint Gorges du Dadès Tinghir – night Zagora – night M’hamid – ideally a night in the desert Agdz Marrakech – night (route via Telouet)

Not all nights are accounted for, so if you have any recommendations, we’re all ears! Agdz is just mentioned to say we’ll pass through there.

Thanks! !

M'hamid - night in the desert ideally

It’s not a desert, it’s a sandbox.😕 But it’s worth it for a little quad ride and some selfies😏

The film studios were a letdown for me. There’s not much left, and what little there is feels outdated. I found it kind of sad.

hi

There’s not much left, and what little there is is aging.

And aging pretty badly... A real sense of abandonment! And that was 10 years ago! So unless there’s been a major renovation?...

Erg Chigaga a sandbox? 🤪 What do you mean by that? I read that it’s really well-preserved compared to Merzouga

My last visit was 12 years ago. It felt like an amusement park! An hour later, we were back on the road... So I can only imagine what it's like these days. But my tastes aren’t universal—lots of people seem to love it, given how crowded it is. Personally, it was the constant roar of quads and other engines that drove me nuts!

Erfoud, Rissani, Merzouga, etc.—it wasn’t so polluted or overrun with quads and 4x4s back then. The vibe was much more peaceful, but that might have changed.

We’d need some recent feedback from people who’ve been there lately...

Personally, my favorite (if I can call it that, since compared to the Algerian desert, the Moroccan one feels pretty "degraded" and like a "sandbox") was Figuig. I’m sure most people wouldn’t agree, since I didn’t see a single tourist there.

In Figuig, no dunes, but a beautiful, calm oasis—just as peaceful as Mhamid was 50 years ago.

I think Djalma was referring to the great ergs of Mauritania or Algeria—compared to those, Erg Chegaga really does look like a sandbox.

However, it covers a much larger area than the one in Merzouga and is significantly less polluted by motorized or camelback attractions. There are, like at Erg Chebbi, a few "camps" run by hotels in Mhamid or Zagora, but it’s nothing like the same scale. That said, I really recommend getting in touch with the owner of the campsite I mentioned earlier—it’s nothing like the other places in the area. It’s authentic, and he’ll organize a top-notch circuit and evening based on your preferences. It doesn’t cost much to contact him and see what he offers. You can mention you’re coming on the recommendation of members from this forum or forum4x4 (a site he’s active on).

Hi there! Having been there, don’t hesitate to go to M’Hamid. We went by camelback and camped—we were all alone, which was a shame, but what bliss! We did it through the Hôtel Sirroco in Zagora. Really lovely hotel and a great desert escape. The camel ride was a bit tough... not used to it... and it’s true that for the same price, we got a "mild" sandstorm instead. Happy travels!

Okay, I get it... But we’re planning to go to Morocco this time, not anywhere else. And if we like this introduction, we’ll go somewhere else next time.

Algeria doesn’t offer the same peace of mind for a tourist

OK, I get it... But we’re planning to go to Morocco this time, not anywhere else. And if we like this introduction, we’ll go somewhere else next time.

Algeria doesn’t offer the same peace of mind for a tourist.

Of course, but I wasn’t recommending that destination—I was just explaining Djalma’s comment about the "sandbox" feeling. The Erg Chegaga is already a good introduction to the dune massifs.

Algeria isn’t the same peace of mind for a tourist

Don’t be mistaken... in many ways, tourists feel much safer in Algeria than in Morocco!

Questions about harassment, annoyances, and scams of all kinds—definitely something to watch out for!

I’m convinced, but I wasn’t talking about that kind of risk.

Any other advice for our trip will be much appreciated ;) thanks

From Ouarzazate, as already mentioned by a previous member, going to Skoura and then back to the Flint oasis by retracing your steps through Ouarzazate—"round trip"—just to pass through Skoura again and head toward the Draa or Todra, etc. ... so many kilometers and hours on the road wasted. Ouarzazate, then Flint, and then Skoura, etc. ... with overnight stays adjusted would make much more sense!!!

I spent a month in Algeria, straddling November and December in 2013, with my trusty VW (Almería-Telhouet ferry). What struck me the most, aside from the landscapes, was the extreme kindness and willingness of Algerians to help (just like in Morocco), but the absolute best part? The scams and constant (commercial) harassment that are so common in Morocco were practically nonexistent. Only once during my entire stay. If you're with Algerians you've just met, at a café, restaurant, or barber, it’s very common that when you leave, you’ll realize they’ve already "super discreetly" paid the bill!!!!!! One example among many: In Tipaza, I met an Algerian who took the same ferry as me. He waved at me, and we chatted for a bit. Then he left. When I finished at the barber and tried to pay for my haircut, I found out he’d already taken care of it.

If you're with Algerians you've just met, whether at a café, restaurant, or barber shop, it's very common that when you leave, you'll realize they've already "super discreetly" paid the bill!!!!!! One example among many: In Tipaza, I met an Algerian who took the same ferry as me. He obviously waved at me, and we chatted for a bit. Then he left. When I finished at the barber and tried to pay for my haircut, he had already taken care of it.

This is true for Algeria but also for many countries where tourism hasn't been well developed. In the Middle East, Syria used to be like that, for example. These days, it might not be a country to recommend :/

Question After the night in Skoura, do you go back down to Fint and then back up toward the Dades Gorges? That doesn’t make much sense. The Fint Oasis is really close to Ouarzazate.

I’ve experienced this several times in Benin. It’s really nice. Once, it was breakfast at the Dantokpa market, another time a full meal at a beachside thatch-roof restaurant in Cotonou. It belonged to Romuald Hazoumé, whom I didn’t know but had chatted with at an accommodation a few days earlier. Recognizing me, he offered me and my daughter a free meal. And once, it was breakfast at a maquis along the Ouémé River. 🙂

Hi there, Same remarks... This is a "throw a stone and see where it lands" kind of plan... ... Skip Skoura and Fint to return to Dadès—it’s not great either...

Since you clearly don’t want to settle down and want to see as much as possible (which is your choice, after all)... I need a month, even rushing, to do your loop—and that’s only if I don’t run into too many friends along the way... 😛

I’ll just suggest an alternative that’s as crazy as yours but much prettier and way less "cutesy" than some of the horrors out there, like visiting the Zazate studios—a total scam for tourists... If you *really* want to see something film-related, check out the cinema museum in the center, across from the Taourirt kasbah... The guy who created it doesn’t manage it anymore and couldn’t care less (though he did study at Sciences Po, and I love the guy ^^). The idea is more "cultural" than the nonsense you’re about to put your kids through... Ouarzazate is my turf—I’ve been hanging out there for over 20 years, for work, but Perju’s right: move along, there’s nothing to see...

Fint, the oasis hyped up by all the YouTubers, Facebookers, and—worse—TikTokers who spend 5 days in Morocco and then write million-page guides telling you everything you *need* to know about the country... Really not a priority for an ultra-short road trip...

So, if I understood correctly, you’ve got 9 days, meaning 8 nights on the ground...

Night 1: MRK...

Night 2: AGOUTI OR TABANT (I figured it’s not great to tackle the Tichka twice), so I’d head to Ait Bouli, then the Ait Bougemez Valley... Anne, a Swiss woman, runs a really nice hostel, *Auberge Flilou* ("poppies" in English), on Google Maps—check it out near Agouti... There are others in Tabant for all budgets... Expect about 6 hours of driving from MRK via Demnate. After Demnate, you’ll get some stunning scenery (a few *Jurassic Park*-style spots and a cute little village with an old granary on your left near Ighir n’Tissen, and a bit later, a small village on a ridge to your right: Iguelouan, pretty spectacular from the road...

Night 3: Bou Tharar... A bit of high-altitude driving to prove those *Guide du Routard* clowns wrong about Morocco’s highest paved passes—there are two here that put the Tichka to shame... After Tabant, a nice climb up the *Tizi Ait Imi* (the "mouth pass") to descend into the M’Goun Valley and then back up the *Tizi Ait Hamed* at 3,050 m... Gorgeous *and* paved... (Hurry up and visit the area before influencers claim they discovered America.) On the way down, some beautiful hairpin turns, then head to Bou Tharar. There are several nice spots if you insist, but don’t always follow the pavement... If you’re not afraid of dirt roads, a small, easy detour will take you through the Amejgag Gorges (you won’t be bothered by tourists there). I can give you the GPS points if you want... There are also some great, remote spots before Bou Tharar—authentic, local, and cheap. FYI, Bou Tharar is kind of the end of the Valley of Roses...

Night 4: Tinghir... From Bou Tharar, there’s an 8 km dirt road (not difficult) that cuts through the massif and connects to the Dadès Valley (near Ait Youl) and its stunning succession of new hostels that have pretty much ruined the valley (though it calms down near Tilmi... for now). From there, you’ll climb the *Tizi Ouanno* pass (everything’s paved or easy on dirt roads—yeah, those days of roughing it on this pass are long gone ^^). On the other side, you’ll pass through Agoudal and descend to Tinghir via the Todgha Gorges... (A few nice spots near Agoudal, but no time.)

Night 5: Zagora... From Tinghir, head back toward Boulmane (sorry about Skoura, but you should’ve come 10–15 years ago—or longer. Now it’s a sick, overhyped palm grove, just like Fint, sold by hordes of *toubabs* who’ve invested in fancy hostels. Of course, the YouTubers and TikTokers who "discovered" Morocco three years ago know how to sell it in their blogs...). From Boulmane, head toward Inkioun and cross the Saghro via easy pavement on the *Tizi Tazazert*—last I heard, it’s been suffering from severe depression since little Logans started crossing it innocently... On the descent (oops, quick stop for orange juice or tea at *Auberge Tirza* and a viewpoint over the Azzefar Canyon), you’ll hit Bab n’Ali... How to put this... Well, it’s a tough climb, but the area’s worth it for some great hikes... Then continue to N’Kob... Still paved... Then turn right toward Zagora via Tanskhite. My heart aches not being able to tell you about the insane dirt roads in the Saghro or the few amazing little surprises on the way to Zagora, but I hope the scenery will blow your mind enough to make you want to come back for another trip—with at least five times more time... or five trips... Zagora: I approve of the hostel Perju recommended. The name’s terrible, but otherwise, I like *Auberge Soleil du Monde*—great with kids and far from the city... Take a relaxed evening or morning walk in the old town of Amzrou; the owner’s really nice...

Night 6: Chegaga. You’ll have time to go to M’Hamid, but stop just before at Bounou, at *Camping Esprit Désert* (also recommended by Perju, and I agree). Run by Phil, who knows his stuff and can organize an amazing night in the desert at Chegaga. Otherwise, try M’Hamid—though *Au Petit Prince* is full of charming scammers who’ll offer you some real duds (if you haven’t been hassled already—these smooth talkers are on top of their game here).

Night 7: Well, do as you like, but enjoy the desert with your kids without rushing—especially since you won’t have your rental car unless it’s a 4x4... Head back at a relaxed pace, and why not sleep at the *Ksabah de Timidarte*? Or even head to Ait Ben Haddou if time’s tight...

Night 8: MRK. On the way back, you’ll have time to stop at Ait Ben Haddou—even though the place has been ruined lately, it’s still fun for the kids, especially since Kurt Russell peed against the palm tree that... (nope, I’m keeping that secret to myself). Obviously, head back via the Ounila Valley, Telouet, and the Tichka...

It’s doable, but it’s a race... Unless your car breaks down, it’s less packed than your first plan...

If I have time—it’s been tough for me lately—but I can also post a bunch of Google Maps links for places you shouldn’t miss for the views, etc., if I remember how to do it...

Hope there's more tarmac than when I passed through some sections of this route—otherwise, they’ll wreck their Logan! Isn’t it a bit too many kilometers? 😉 Otherwise, this seems way more interesting than what was initially planned...

Could this message be moved to a PM for Groschat, please?

or better: you copy it here and paste it in private, then ask for your message to be deleted.

Thanks so much, Murielle. Copy/pasted in a PM to Grochats. But can I delete it from this post?

I don’t think you can delete the message. But you can edit it. You could replace your original text with something like 'message deleted by its author'.

When you send a message, you can edit it only for a certain amount of time—after that, it stays in its original form. By clicking on "options," you’ll see the choices available to you... but as mentioned, this is only possible for a limited time (I don’t remember exactly how long). If "options" is no longer available, it means the time has run out.

That would be great, but it's just "report or reply", no "option". I've always been terrible at the internet. Thanks to you both

yes, time's up

Hi, you can delete it. I’ve already had posts I made removed through this site. They were really cool about it and deleted them. Write to them and explain. It only took a few days. Cheers.

That would be great, but only "report or reply", no "option". I’ve always been terrible with the internet. Thanks to you both

The "report" feature is active with no time limit. Use it (click the link) to report your own post and explain the reason. Moderation is usually pretty quick to respond... It’s faster than sending an email.

Yep, almost the entire route I suggested is paved... And the rest can be done easily in a rental sedan. As for kilometers, I won’t argue with you—slower travel suits me just fine. It’s just a suggestion... If you’re gonna eat up asphalt, might as well see beautiful things. Doing tons of kilometers just to cover half the route twice doesn’t seem great to me...

Otherwise, since COVID, they’ve built quite a few new tracks. Not enough to feel the thrill of vast, solitary spaces, but honestly, it’s better than nothing, and you can really explore areas that were inaccessible before. There’s definitely a way to still enjoy yourself without running into the crowds you find in Marrakech or Agadir... Who knows how long it’ll last. Not sure the folks who explored the country in the 1930s would’ve liked seeing solo adventurers in 4x4s in the Atlas... We live in our time because we don’t have a choice...🙂

My memories are a bit fuzzy... I remember (1975! The year of the Green March) some pretty rough tracks for my R4TL when leaving the Todra Gorge. Around Tamtatoucht? Agoudal? On the way to Imilchil during the moussem. And also in the Ait Bouguemez Valley, etc. All this tarmac makes me want to go back for a more relaxed road trip...

and head back up to Tizi Ait Hamed and its 3,050 m.

Darn, I didn’t know about that one!

It could’ve fit into my last trip.

I’ll keep it in mind.

So glad you were able to delete your message. Drop by and see me when you come to Morocco. I’d love to see you again. Hugs. Juju

You’ve also got some amazing hikes in the area. If the season’s right and the river level is low, you can start from this valley—still in its natural state—along the M'Goun river and follow it all the way to Bou Tharar, passing through the stunning and dramatic Achabou gorge. (You’ll have water up to your feet, maybe even your knees; it’s narrow, so it’s best not to set off just anytime.)

At the bottom of Tizi Ait Imi, there’s a pretty basic gîte-camping spot that does the job—Gîte Vallée M'Goun, 3 km before the village of Ouzirimt. You leave your car there and follow the river through all the little villages until Bou Tharar...

A super nice hike that can be done in 3 or 4 days. The gîte is functional, but it’s not the Mamounia. Once in Bou Tharar, you can catch a 308 or 208 (shared taxi) heading to Tabant and get dropped off at the gîte. In Bou Tharar, at Auberge Tamalout (eating there is better because the owner’s getting a bit stingy in his old age ^^), he’ll call to book the number of seats from Kelaa M'gouna where they leave...

Thanks for the tips.

You're welcome. I’ll check out your photos. Cheers,

I’ll just suggest an alternative that’s as wild as yours but way prettier and far less touristy than some of the tacky stuff—like visiting the Zazate studios, which is a total scam for suckers... If you *really* want to see something film-related, check out the cinema museum downtown, right across from the Taourirt Kasbah. The guy who started it doesn’t manage it anymore and couldn’t care less (though he did go to Sciences Po, so he’s cool in my book ^^). It’s at least a bit more "cultural" than the nonsense you’re about to put your kids through... Ouarzazate is my turf—I’ve been hanging around there for over 20 years, mostly for work, but Perju’s right: move along, there’s nothing to see...

Hey Olivier,

You always crack me up

but Perju is right, move along, there’s nothing to see...

You always crack me up

Oh yeah, that’s what makes you laugh!!!

" that " is me? 😮

No no, I was just responding to your comment about me and teasing Kate... about the fact that she’s laughing because you said I was right... 😏

I was teasing you too 😛..

Anyway, you were teasing me too 😇

That’s exactly what I was thinking... 😏

Hi, Same remarks... This is a "throw a stone and see what happens" kind of program... 😇... Go to Skoura and Fint to head back to Dadès, not great either...

Since you clearly don’t want to stop and want to see as much as possible—which is your choice after all—I’d need a month, even rushing, to do your loop... and that’s if I don’t run into too many friends along the way...😛

I’d just suggest a variant that’s as crazy as yours but much prettier and way less "cutesy" than some of the tourist traps, like visiting the Zazate studios, which is a total scam for gullible tourists... If you *really* want to see something film-related, check out the cinema museum in the center, across from the Taourirt kasbah... The guy who created it doesn’t manage it anymore and couldn’t care less (he went to Sciences Po, though, and I love the guy ^^). The idea is more "cultural" than the nonsense you’re about to put your kids through... Ouarzazate is my turf—I’ve been hanging out there for over 20 years, for work, but Perju’s right: move along, there’s nothing to see...

Fint, the oasis hyped up by all the YouTubers, Facebookers, and—worse—TikTokers who spend 5 days in Morocco and then write million-page guides about everything you *need* to know about the country... Really not a priority for an ultra-short road trip...

So if I understood correctly, you’ve got 9 days, meaning 8 nights there...

Night 1: MRK...

Night 2: AGOUTI OR TABANT (I figured it’s not great to do the Tichka twice), so I’d head to Ait Bouli, then the Ait Bougemez valley... Anne, a Swiss woman, runs a really nice hostel, Auberge Flilou ("poppies" in English), on Google Maps—check it out near Agouti... There are others in Tabant for all budgets... Count about 6 hours of driving from MRK via Demnate. After Demnate, you’ll get some stunning scenery (a few spots with *Jurassic Park* vibes and a cute little village with an old granary on your left near Ighir n’Tissent, and a bit later, a small village on a ridge to your right: Iguelouan, pretty spectacular from the road...

Night 3: Bou Tharar... A bit of very high mountain action to prove those *Guide du Routard* clowns wrong about the highest paved passes in Morocco—there are two around here that put the Tichka to shame... After Tabant, a nice climb up the Tizi Ait Imi (the "mouth pass") to descend into the M’Goun valley and then back up the Tizi Ait Hamed at 3,050 m... Gorgeous AND paved... (Hurry up and visit the area before influencers claim they discovered America.) On the way down, some beautiful hairpin turns, then head to Bou Tharar. There are several nice places if you insist, but don’t always follow the pavement... If you’re not afraid of dirt roads, a small, easy detour will take you through the Amejgag gorges (you won’t be bothered by tourists there). I can give you the GPS tracks and points... There are also a few really nice, remote spots before Bou Tharar that are cheap and authentic—real local vibes. FYI, Bou Tharar is kind of the end of the Valley of the Roses...

Night 4: Tinghir... From Bou Tharar, there’s an easy 8 km dirt road that cuts through the massif and connects to the Dadès valley (near Ait Youl) and its beautiful—but sadly overdeveloped—succession of new hostels (though it calms down near Tilmi... for now). From there, you’ll climb the Tizi Ouanno pass (everything’s paved or easy on dirt roads—yeah, those days of roughing it are long gone ^^). On the other side, you’ll pass through Agoudal and descend to Tinghir via the Todgha gorges... (A few nice spots near Agoudal, but no time.)

Night 5: Zagora... From Tinghir, head back toward Boulmane (sorry about Skoura, but you should’ve come 10–15 years ago or more—now it’s a sick, overhyped palm grove, just like Fint, sold by hordes of tourists who’ve invested in fancy hostels. Of course, the YouTubers and TikTokers who "discovered" Morocco three years ago know how to sell it in their blogs...). From Boulmane, head toward Inkioun and cross the Saghro via easy paved roads through the Tizi Tazazert, which, last I heard, has been suffering from severe depression ever since little Logans started crossing it innocently... On the way down (oops, quick stop for orange juice or tea at Auberge Tirza and a viewpoint over the Azzefar canyon), you’ll hit Bab n’Ali... How to put it... Well, it’s basically a big, hard zigzag, but the area’s worth remembering for some great hikes... Then continue to N’Kob... Still paved... After that, turn right toward Zagora via Tanskhite. My heart aches that I can’t tell you about the insane dirt roads in the Saghro or the few beautiful little surprises on the way to Zagora, but I hope the landscape will blow your mind enough to make you want to come back for another trip with *at least* five times more time... or five trips... Zagora: I approve of the hostel Perju recommended. The name’s terrible, but otherwise, I like going to Auberge Soleil du Monde—it’s nice with kids and far from the city... Take a relaxed walk in the evening or morning through the old town of Amzrou; the owner’s really friendly...

Night 6: Chegaga. You’ll have time to go to M’Hamid, but stop just before at Bounou at Camping Esprit Désert (also recommended by Perju, which I approve of), run by Phil, who knows his stuff and can organize a great night in the desert at Chegaga. Otherwise, try M’Hamid—though at Petit Prince, you’ll mostly find charming scammers offering you overpriced junk (if you haven’t been hassled already, because the smooth talkers here are on top form).

Night 7: Do what you want, but enjoy the desert with your kids without rushing, especially since you won’t have your rental car (unless it’s a 4x4)... Head back slowly and why not sleep at the Ksar of Timidarte... Or even head to Ait Ben Haddou if you’re short on time...

Night 8: MRK. On the way back, you’ll have time to stop at Ait Ben Haddou, but even though the place has been ruined lately, it’s still fun for the kids—especially since Kurt Russell peed against the palm tree there (no, I’m keeping that secret to myself)... Obviously, head back via the Ounila, Telouet, and the Tichka...

It’s doable, but it’s a race... Unless your car breaks down, it’s less packed than your first proposal...

Sorry we didn’t see this message—it got buried under the replies about forum features, etc. Sorry because you took the time, so thank you at the same time!

You know now that no, we weren’t just doing our own thing—we simply didn’t see the message. I got an alert about a reply and saw discussions about deleting posts, etc. (see the thread)