2 weeks in mojito country - March 2024 (Cuba)

Hey everyone,

A lot has happened in 4 years when it comes to travel. It wasn’t a little virus that would stop us from traveling, even if we sometimes had to adjust our destinations. So, I’m going to try to get back into posting travel journals, starting with destinations where there aren’t many recent stories.

I’ll begin with our trip of 2 weeks exploring the western part of Cuba. For those eager to read the story, I invite you to check out MyAtlas, where I started writing my travel journals during VoyageForum’s long hiatus: https://www.myatlas.com/Lofwyra/cuba-petit-detour-au-pays-du-mojito

Our itinerary, traveled in a 1954 classic American car with our driver Yoan, who spoke excellent French. I’ll add links to the posts as I write them.

2 nights in Habana Vieja - <<click here to go directly to the post>> 2 nights in Playa Larga** 2 nights in Cienfuegos** 3 nights in Trinidad*** 2 nights in Matanzas*** 3 nights in Viñales**** 1 night in Havana, downtown and Vedado

Before diving into the story, here are a few photos of what stood out to us beyond the usual sights of this country:

🙂 The birds, in large numbers—hummingbirds, pink flamingos, pelicans, and especially the tocororo, Cuba’s endemic bird, considered the national bird because the colors of its plumage match the Cuban flag.

🙂 Matanzas, a city that doesn’t get much attention, sandwiched between Varadero and Havana. It doesn’t have the architectural splendor of Trinidad or Cienfuegos, some streets are really dirty, but it has a dynamic, lively vibe that really touched us.

🙂 The ever-present blue, in the architecture, the cars, and the natural surroundings.

...and what we called the "Cuban style": rum and cigars in the company of Che 😎

There’s still so much more to remember about this captivating and vibrant country, despite the economic crisis hitting Cubans hard... to be continued in the story.

Happy reading, Pascale

Hey Pascale,

So here I am, about to head to Cuba thanks to your story. 😉

Hi Attila,

Thanks for following along with my travel journal. I’ll feel a little less alone ;-)

Have a great weekend, Pascale

Hi Pascale 🙂

Can’t wait to read the rest! The destination has plenty of charm, but the mixed feelings I’ve heard have always kept me from taking the plunge so far.

Hello Attila,

Thanks for following along with this travel journal. I’ll feel a little less alone ;-)

Have a great weekend, Pascale

Hey Pascale, Oh no, you’re not alone—we’re joining you! 😄 Cuba’s been on my radar for a while, so I’ll be following this journal with great interest! 😊

Welcome! 🙂

I get your questions about Cuba—I had the same ones while planning the trip. In the end, it’s a trip that’ll hold a special little place in my heart. It’s not the most beautiful trip I’ve taken, nor the one where I saw the most extraordinary things, but it’s the one that, for 2 weeks, made me feel like I was living in a vibrant, colorful atmosphere while stepping back in time. And most of all, I got to taste the best mojito I’ve ever had 😉

Awesome, thanks for joining us! 🙂

Day 1 - Old Havana

Before hitting the road, we decided to dedicate our first day in Cuba to exploring the historic center of Havana. We opted for a guided tour in the morning, which let us chat a bit about daily life in Cuba before we set off to wander the neighborhood ourselves. In the afternoon, after a little apéro at La Floridita—a bar famous for its daiquiris—we strolled through the streets of Old Havana, soaking up the unique atmosphere. No set plan, just walking and enjoying.

The colorful facades, some in ruins, give the neighborhood a certain charm.

You can also explore the city in vintage American cars from the 1950s. Drivers with their gleaming rides wait near the Capitol to take you for a spin, but we preferred our own two feet. Especially since we’d be spending the next 13 days cruising the roads in an old Chevrolet ;)

As we wandered

Alongside the colorful streets, there are a few squares with older buildings and churches. We especially loved the peaceful late-afternoon vibe of the Plaza de la Catedral.

You can’t be in Havana without stopping by the Bodeguita del Medio for a mojito and some live music. Even though it’s super touristy and not where we had our best mojito of the trip, we really enjoyed our little break in this spot that (allegedly?) saw celebrities like Ernest Hemingway, Pablo Neruda, and Salvador Allende pass through. We waited a bit outside to snag a prime spot at the bar and watch the bartender churn out mojitos—quite a show in itself.

We wandered until late in the evening. Nighttime gives the place a special charm too—some streets are completely deserted and silent, while others are lively with people in restaurants and bars.

I think I’ll follow you to this amazing country. Gorgeous photos. Thanks.

Welcome! I was just about to post the next part! :)

As a certain troll who harasses me would say, 😉 whenever there’s alcohol, Montagnard shows up! More seriously, now that the travel journal has truly begun, I’ll keep it going—if only to reminisce about those… hazy memories 😉

Hi Pascale,

When I started reading, I thought I was beginning this travel journal way behind schedule... but actually, not at all! 😏 So, here I go! 😎

As a certain pesky forum troll would say, 😉 whenever there’s alcohol, Montagnard shows up!

Gotta admit, he’s not entirely wrong!

As a certain nasty forum troll who’s been harassing me would say, 😉 whenever there’s alcohol involved, Montagnard shows up!

Gotta admit, he’s not entirely wrong! 😏

If Muriel joins in too 😠 I’m only interested in Cuba, okay? 🤪

Okay, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt 😉

Hi there, Has anyone visited Cuba recently in 2025? What’s the situation with shortages for transport (gas), food (fridges), bottled water, and internet (electricity)? I was thinking of going in November, but I’m still on the fence... Thanks.

Hi Julien

I haven’t been there recently, but I have a friend who runs a travel agency, and as a travel professional, he strongly advises against sending his clients there—precisely because of the issues you mentioned and the liability involved.

But why is this discussion coming up now? (private joke)

Hi! I traveled solo in Cuba for two weeks in June 2025. I loved this trip, but you need to be an experienced traveler to really appreciate this destination right now. I visited Havana, Viñales, Santiago, Camagüey, Santa Clara, Sancti Spíritus, Trinidad, and Cienfuegos. I got around by Viazul buses and shared taxis, and I always stayed in *casas*.

Here are the concessions you need to be ready to make:

- Have your entire budget in cash and exchange it bit by bit on the spot. You can even pay in small-denomination dollars.

- Be ready to disconnect from the internet—my Etecsa SIM card worked terribly.

- Be prepared for last-minute changes. Some of my buses changed schedules or were canceled, so I had to fall back on shared taxis. Just so you know, there are almost no domestic flights anymore, the train has practically disappeared, and in general, there’s only one Viazul bus per day—or even fewer.

- To avoid stress from communication issues, I booked all my *casas* in advance by email.

- Bring a flashlight because, yes, the cities are plunged into total darkness at night. It’s really striking. But I never felt unsafe at any point.

My biggest fear was that museums, restaurants, and other attractions would be closed. But no, everything is running normally on that front.

Here’s a quick overview. If you have any other specific questions, feel free to ask!

Have a great day

Hi, Really interesting, thanks! Two other questions: what about the budget per category (knowing, if I understand correctly, that you didn’t use a guide/driver/private taxi service)? And how much time would you recommend for each of your stops? (It does seem smart to book everything in advance to avoid being stuck without internet—even though I get that casa owners can reserve your next stop with their contacts—but you’d still need to estimate how long to spend at each place.)

Hi there,

Regarding transportation: I traveled with Viazul buses (they have a really well-made website with fares and schedules) and collectivos, except for two exceptions: I took a taxi in Santiago for $25 round trip to visit the famous fortress 10 km from the city. And the second time in Trinidad, I paid $100 to have a driver for 9 hours to visit the Valle de los Ingenios.

Regarding the budget, I spent on average 30 € per day for accommodation and breakfast, 20 €-30 per day at restaurants (which aren’t that cheap, actually). 10 € for visits and museums. Note that entry prices are sometimes ridiculously low, but employees expect a little something to open the rooms for you. :)

Regarding my itinerary, I generally stayed 2-3 nights in each city. Everything was influenced by the bus schedules... another reason to plan ahead. Note that the buses aren’t really punctual when it comes to arrival times.

Have a great day