Traveling in the Altai Mountains in Mongolia: staying with a nomadic family and taking the Trans-Siberian

Hi there, I’m planning to spend two months in Mongolia, and I’d love to be welcomed by a nomadic or semi-nomadic family in the Altai Mountains. I can work and, of course, contribute money for my stay! Has anyone already had this experience? Also, is it still possible today to take the Trans-Siberian to Novosibirsk and then cross the Russia-Mongolia border at Tashanta? Looking forward to your replies! Thanks

Hello, For Russia, you'll need a visa, your passport, and probably some cash (rubles or euros). Best regards, Patrick

hi, if the visa is still free this year for stays over 30 days, you’ll need to extend it at the Immigration Police. You can do this online too: https://immigration.gov.mn/en/visa-extension/. Do this as soon as you arrive.

As for living with nomads, it’s actually quite easy. You’ll just need to agree on covering your stay, either by paying a fee or another arrangement.

One solution is to go knock on a yurt’s door once you’re there and explain what you’d like to do and how...

We have a contact there with over 20 years of experience—I’m not sure if they know any “good families” in that area, but you could ask them and see how you might organize things... (contact in English: mejet69@yahoo.com)

We’ve taken 7 trips there and always prioritized staying with nomads, going to sleep at their place each night to share their daily life, sometimes staying for several days. It’s definitely the best way to experience the legendary hospitality of the steppes. I’d budget around 10 € per day, though our contact can give you more details on that.

As for the Trans-Siberian, we took it in February 2019. What are the current options? You might want to check with the nearest Russian consulate. We bought our tickets directly through an agency based in Moscow or St. Petersburg—we found them at our hotel in Moscow. That said, I remember prices varied quite a bit between agencies, sometimes by a lot of euros! At the time, we *had* to go through an agency—it wasn’t possible to book tickets directly on the Russian Railways website. Has that changed now? https://www.russianrailways.com/ Russian railway https://www.russiantrain.com/

Just a heads-up: you can’t (or couldn’t in 2019) check schedules/prices for trains in transit more than 2 months in advance. Prices change between winter and summer, as does the number of trains per week (they don’t run daily).

Happy to help!

Hi there, Just a heads-up: in Russia, you can't book train or bus tickets more than 3 months before the departure date. If you're planning a round trip, keep that in mind when calculating your schedule. Best regards,

Hello, I’d like to spend two months in Mongolia, and I’d love to be welcomed by a nomadic or semi-nomadic family in the Altai Mountains. I can work and, of course, contribute money for my stay! Has anyone already had this experience? And is it still possible today to take the Trans-Siberian to Novosibirsk, then cross the Russia-Mongolia border at Tashanta? Looking forward to your replies. Thanks

Hi, I’m currently in western Mongolia. To answer your question about Russia, I’d call the Russian visa service in Paris directly because I doubt they’re issuing visas right now—but hey, anything’s possible in this country. Safe travels! Marie

I forgot to mention, I’ve always bought my train tickets at the station the day before without any issues.

Marie

Hello, I’d like to spend two months in Mongolia, and I’d love to be welcomed by a nomadic or semi-nomadic family in the Altai Mountains. I can work and, of course, pay for my stay! Has anyone already had this experience? And is it still possible today to take the Trans-Siberian to Novosibirsk and then cross the Russia-Mongolia border at Tashanta? Looking forward to your replies. Thanks

Hi, I’m currently in western Mongolia. To answer your question about Russia, I’d call the Russian visa service in Paris directly because I doubt they’re issuing visas, but hey, anything’s possible in this country. Have a great trip. Marie

Hi Marie, thanks for your reply! Where are you in the west?

Hello, If the visa is still free this year for stays over 30 days, you’ll need to extend it at the Immigration Police. https://immigration.gov.mn/en/visa-extension/ You can also do it online. Do this as soon as you arrive.

As for living with nomads, it’s actually quite easy. You’ll need to agree on compensation for your stay—either by paying a fee or some other arrangement.

One solution is to go knock on a yurt’s door once you’re there and explain what you’d like to do and how...

We have a contact there with over 20 years of experience. I’m not sure if they know any "good families" in that area, but you could ask them and see how you might organize things... (contact in English: mejet69@yahoo.com)

We’ve taken 7 trips there and always prioritized staying with nomads each night to share their daily life, sometimes staying for several days. It’s definitely the best way to experience their legendary steppe hospitality. I’d budget around 10 € per day—our contact can give you more details on that.

As for the Trans-Siberian, we took it in February 2019. What are the current options? You might want to check with the nearest Russian consulate. We bought our tickets directly through an agency based in Moscow or St. Petersburg—we found them at our Moscow hotel. But I remember prices varied a lot between agencies, sometimes by quite a few euros! At the time, we had to go through an agency—it wasn’t possible to book tickets directly on the Russian Railways website. Has that changed now? https://www.russianrailways.com/ Russian railway https://www.russiantrain.com/

Note: In 2019, you couldn’t (or weren’t able to) check schedules/prices for trains in transit more than 2 months in advance. Prices change between winter and summer, and the number of trains per week varies (they don’t run daily).

Thanks, Meridiana, for this detailed response, all this info, and that valuable contact—I’ll send them an email! How did you choose to get around in the country? And how did you communicate with the nomads to arrange this exchange in return for their hospitality?

Hello, I’d like to spend two months in Mongolia and would love to be hosted by a nomadic or semi-nomadic family in the Altai Mountains. I can work and, of course, contribute money for my stay! Has anyone already had this experience? And is it still possible today to take the Trans-Siberian to Novosibirsk, then cross the Russia-Mongolia border at Tashanta? Looking forward to your replies. Thanks

Well, given the unpredictable geopolitical situation, I think I’ll just take a flight to Ulaanbaatar—though the environment will take another hit. Oh well, a little guilt trip here :)

Hi Emmanuelle, as you asked, I’m currently in Altai. It’s cold, and the first problem is transportation because I’m traveling alone using public transport, and it’s really not easy. For a good "base camp" in Ulaanbaatar, you have the Golden Gobi, a budget guesthouse. The lady there is very kind and can help organize something or buy bus tickets—she’s great. As for the rest, given the major difficulties herders are facing due to climate change, personally, I wouldn’t feel comfortable just showing up like, "Knock knock, it’s me—I want to live with you." That’s just my opinion. When do you want to come to Mongolia? If I can help, I’d be happy to, but solo travel isn’t easy. Of course, if you go through tours, it gets even more complicated. Best wishes. Looking forward to it. Marie

hi there, for all our trips we chose to rent a jeep with a driver.

You can also get around by bus, but it’s not always easy to travel between cities since you often have to go back through the capital.

The hospitality of the steppes is very real—no one is left outside, no matter the season. We experienced this often, so yes, you can knock on a yurt without any problem. If the nomads are dealing with something, like we once encountered a recent bereavement, they’ll tell you. Otherwise, whether the family is wealthier or poorer, they’ll welcome you. If you’d like, you can leave a small offering when you leave, or before if you choose to stay several days—no worries, it’ll be a little help for them too.

Anyway, you can check with the contact I gave you—hopefully, they’ll have places to send you. And as you meet people along the way, you’ll discover more spots to visit.

happy travels

Hi Emmanuelle, as you asked, I’m currently in Altai. It’s cold, and the first problem is transportation because I’m traveling alone using public transport, and it’s really not easy. For a good "base camp" in Ulaanbaatar, you have the Golden Gobi, a budget guest-house. The lady there is very kind and can help organize something or buy bus tickets—she’s great. As for the rest, given the major difficulties herders are facing due to climate change, personally, I wouldn’t feel comfortable just showing up like, "Knock knock, it’s me—I want to live with you." But that’s just my opinion. When do you plan to come to Mongolia? If I can help, I’d be happy to, but solo travel isn’t easy. Of course, if you go through tours, it gets even more complicated. Take care, and hope to see you soon. Marie

Thanks for the guest-house tip—I’m in! I’ll be coming in August and September, and I’ll be traveling solo too. It’s true that just showing up without speaking the language doesn’t seem easy, even though I know how hospitable the country and its people are... If I could find a guide for the Altai Mountains who speaks French to help me connect with a nomadic family, that would be amazing. Just in case you come across someone like that on your travels... Sending warm wishes from France, Marie!

Did you find Golden Gobi? It’s really central, has a kitchen, and feels very homely. I know there’s a French agency in Ulaanbaatar, but I can’t remember which one—you’ll have to look it up. You’ll definitely have fewer issues with buses in the summer since there are lots of tourists. Try starting a thread on the forum for a French-speaking guide. I can ask around at the guesthouse when I get back if you’d like. I know there are French travelers in Karakorum—I’ll look into it. I have the Lonely Planet in my bag, but a lot of it isn’t accurate or is outdated. Are our conversations private or not? Make sure to ask about extending your stay when you arrive at the guesthouse. Beautiful days here—the mountains are white. Marie

So I found out it’s a tour run by French people, but go ahead and ask your question. www.horsetrails.mn—you’ll see if the folks are nice or not. They have a café (which was, of course, closed when I passed by). They offer horseback rides, but why not—page 123 of the Lonely Planet.

Since I had a sleepless night, I’m resting today, which is why I’m replying quickly

having a language translation app on your phone helps with conversations too

but also getting the guest house manager or someone else to write down what you need to ask isn't a bad idea either (used back when phones weren't as powerful!)

getting around by bus isn't always straightforward, but you could also consider renting a bike in UB? or a motorbike? That can allow for independent travel... it all depends on the area you want to visit and the time you have available to explore the country/region... also think about teaming up to rent a vehicle for a period (not for the entire duration of your stay there... well, there are plenty of ways to make it work even if you're alone or on a tight budget to still enjoy the landscapes and the nomads).

it's clear that sharing with the nomads is a big part of discovering this culture and country: 50% ever-changing landscapes and 50% living their daily life with them

you'll definitely find your solution by August-September!

horstrails specializes in horseback riding in the Orkhon Valley, they've been active for about 20 years, and before they also did individual trips, check also with https://www.fairfield.mn/ you might find more solutions that work for you with them.

see you around

Alright, the trip is coming together—thanks for all your feedback and tips!

So, I’ll be traveling for two months by plane, without going through Russia. First, two weeks with a nomadic family in central Mongolia, then a month with another nomadic family in the Altai Mountains.

Now, I’m looking for a French-Mongolian interpreter to accompany me with this nomadic family in the Altai Mountains starting August 21st, for at least two weeks. Any recommendations? Looking forward to hearing from you! Thanks! Emmanuelle

Hi Emmanuelle, So glad to hear from you—it’s really coming together! For the guide, I don’t have a solution, sorry. For the flight, check if there’s a direct Frankfurt/Ulaanbaatar flight—I don’t know the price, but it’s faster. I went via Beijing, which was great on the way out, but 24 hours of waiting on the way back 😅. For the guide, did you ask at the Golden Gobi guesthouse? See you soon. Marie

If you need any other info—transport, sightseeing, etc.—just let me know!

There’s Soguide online, but in my opinion it’s gonna cost you an arm and a leg since you’re traveling solo 😅

Ask at the Alliance Française for an interpreter—students are often happy to chat/translate. Agree on the terms: price, etc....

Hi, I just saw the reply about the Alliance Française. To let you know where it is: when you're in Genghis Khan Square facing the sculpture, take the sidewalk on the right. There's a big red banner marked AF, and at the bottom, there's a Lux store. Go up to the 3rd floor. The Alliance is there to teach French—it’s often young people from well-off families. The Alliance is brand new and works with the Goethe Institute. AFs can be complicated, though.

A bit further away, there’s the famous French restaurant (on the left sidewalk). Maybe you can go there and ask—they should have the details online or in a guide. Also, when you leave, the AF might be on break or just starting their application process for the new term. But don’t worry, it’ll be fine with the families even if you don’t speak the language. There’ll be interesting things to experience. It’ll all work out—no stress! Marie

There’s also a French restaurant in Karakorum. Some Mongolians speak French and are looking for work—I know because I chatted in French with a guide. Of course, I was the only tourist, so we talked about this and that. You’ll find the contact details in the guides. Marie

Awesome! Thanks for the info about that restaurant. I’m also in touch with an NGO and its director, who’s a native of the region—so cool!

That sounds great, good preparation! Marie