Questions about excursions around Marrakech

Hi there,

A group of 11 of us will be spending a week in Marrakech in May. I’d love your thoughts and advice on these excursions I’ve shortlisted—or any others I might not have considered:

- Visiting Marrakech: with or without a guide? Is one day enough for the main sights? - Essaouira: Is a day trip a good option? Is the journey scenic? - Ouzoud Waterfalls: Is the place worth the trip? - Agafay Desert: Any recommendations to avoid the tourist crowds? - Imlil Valley and Mount Toubkal: A worthwhile detour?

Of course, I don’t plan to do everything in one week, but your input will help me decide... Thanks in advance! !

Hi there

Marrakech: you’ll need 2/3 days. Guide: why not if you’re firm on not wanting to visit shops with them

Essaouira: easy as a day trip, the road isn’t very exciting, but Essaouira itself is really charming

Ouzoud is far and very touristy

Agafay is the trendy thing to do. You’ll be right in the middle of tourist crowds

Imlil: a lovely day out. On Saturdays, the souk in Asni is very picturesque

Hey, I agree with Fanguy...

Just adding a detail since I was about to say the same thing... Fanguy didn’t use the term "desert" for Agafay. Agafay isn’t a desert... It’s pure marketing to sell experiences to all-inclusive adventurers in the palm grove...

Hi Bruno, in April 2019 I acted as a guide for a couple of Spanish friends during a one-week trip to Morocco. I realized that interests vary—so, 11 people!!! I recommend starting with a full day in Marrakech with a guide to see the highlights in the medina: palaces, riads, etc. On the second day, everyone can go at their own pace to explore the outskirts—the "bab" gates, the ramparts, the new districts, Jardin Majorelle, and the Menara Garden with its panoramic view of the Atlas Mountains (even better if they’re still snow-capped).

As for Essaouira, this city is absolutely worth the detour. In the morning, the port is buzzing with energy, especially for seafood lovers—it’s a must-visit. The city and its ramparts are stunning. I love Essaouira: it’s peaceful yet full of life, like a real postcard.

The Ouzoud Waterfalls are best visited midweek when there are fewer Moroccans around, otherwise it gets super crowded. The charm of the site really depends on how much water is flowing!

Oukaimeden offers a gorgeous mountain road leading to a picturesque cable car that takes you up to 3,200m. It’s popular with Moroccans for skiing. I’ve skied there myself with my own gear and even taken off a few times with my paraglider (I worked for two years on a dam 100km from Marrakech). The view of Toubkal and the mountain range is incredible.

My friends wanted to explore Ouarzazate, so we left the riad early. It was a long but amazing drive. Ouarzazate is like a movie set—many films shot in the area prove it. The landscape is arid, the sky a royal blue, and the kasbahs and the Glaoui Palace are majestic. Have a great trip—it might feel a bit short, but it’ll make your group want to come back to Morocco!

To add to what’s been said about Essaouira, it’s a stunning city, so different from the others with its fortress, fishing port, often rough sea, and its blue hues. It’s a paradise for photographers! Here are some photos I took in 2014:

Well, thanks everyone, we're making progress quickly after all! And thanks to my neighbor from Évian for these gorgeous photos that inspired my post and convinced me to include Essaouira in the itinerary...

Ouarzazate, too far. Ouzoud, I took a look, but it doesn’t really appeal to me... Oukaimeden, skiing—I think I know a few spots near home already 😉

So, 2 days in Marrakech 1 day in Essaouira 1 afternoon + evening in Agafay if I find the right provider (I’ve got some people in the group who aren’t used to traveling, so a bit of Fram-style comfort will do them good)... 1 day in Imlil for hiking + village visit 1 day for a hammam + massage (it’s a nearly unanimous request...) And, of course, some downtime by the pool...

I saw on Google the Ouirgane Forest and Dam—does anyone know it? A good place for lunch? We’ll have 2 extra days with 3 friends, so I’d love to spend a day there...

Just to clarify: we’ve rented cars...

Ouirgane is the region where the earthquake happened. When I passed through in October, there were also massive road repairs and machinery everywhere. Not exactly a dream destination!

Hi Bruno, in April 2019 I acted as a guide for a couple of Spanish friends during a one-week trip to Morocco. I realized that interests vary so much with 11 people!!!

That’s the perk of having (a little) travel experience under your belt—you get this aura of a seasoned traveler 🏴‍☠️ that lets you make the calls 😉. Afterward, we already tried it in the Algarve, and it went pretty well... But luckily, I’ve got more travel plans lined up this year with my girlfriend!!

Ouirgane is the region where the earthquake happened. When I went there in October, there were also major road repairs going on and machinery everywhere. Not exactly a dream destination!

That’s why I love this forum—news is always fresh! Any other nice ideas within about 2 hours of Marrakech besides the ones already mentioned?

There’s still the Ourika Valley. Lovely little restaurants with your feet in the water and great options for pleasant walks. A great spot to relax: La Perle de l’Ourika

Hey Bruno,

If I understand correctly, all nights are booked in Marrakech??? You're gonna rack up the kilometers...

Essaouira is really nice but it's a 6-hour round trip.

Imlil was great, even if it's not super representative of Morocco.

For visits, personally, I prefer without a guide. You go where you want, how you want, and stay as long as you want. But with 11 people, it might help to keep everyone's wishes in check...

Ouzoud, meh, not great.

Tizi n'Test? (Not exactly close either...)

We’ll have 2 extra days with 3 friends

If you can avoid staying in Marrakech, Happy Valley (Ait Bouguemez) — see my latest travel journal on the destination (Stops 12-13).

Hey Bruno,

Just adding my two cents with my personal opinion (which is just my own, of course 😛)

- Visiting Marrakech: with or without a guide? Is one day enough for the main sites?

No, you don’t need a guide in Marrakech. There are great maps of the medina, and you can find good summaries in paper guides to cover the essentials—unless you want an in-depth history lesson. One day for all the sites? Here are the main ones: Jemaa el-Fna Square, the souks, the Dar Si Said Museum, the Ben Youssef Madrasa, the Secret Garden, the Photography Museum, the Majorelle Gardens, the Bahia Palace, the Museum of Confluences, and the Saadian Tombs. You in a hurry?

- Essaouira: Is a day trip a good option? Is the journey nice?

The road is pretty ugly. A day trip is doable, but just know you’ll be spending 6 hours round-trip (by bus, and not much less by car—I don’t know if you’ll have rented one by then).

- Ouzoud Waterfalls: Is the trip worth it?

Meh.

- Agafay Desert: Any tips to avoid the tourist crowds?

The sandbox? 🤪

- Imlil Valley and Mount Toubkal: A worthwhile detour?

Not bad for the scenery.

Like Fangui, I’d recommend the Ourika Valley. Given your friends’ "profile," I think they’d enjoy it—Morocco a bit more raw, with the touristy touches that come with this popular excursion. Tons of agencies offer it, so you won’t have to stress, and you’ll have a great day.

And/or, I’d pick Essaouira. The first bus leaves Marrakech at 7:45 AM (otherwise, forget it). It’s a beautiful place, and I know some great fish restaurants 😉

Too bad Ijoukak and its region were devastated by the earthquake. Hopefully, things will have improved by then—check just before you leave. As for the Tinmel Mosque, unless you’re praying over its ruins...

For my Essaouira tip, I forgot that all your nights were in Marrakech. We stayed in Essaouira because the drive is long and the city deserves spending some time there. That said, with a random date in May, I found on Airtruc a riad (Dar Mama) in Essaouira with 6 bedrooms and 6 bathrooms in the city for 220 € per night.

Moral of the story: a week in Marrakech if you want to explore the region isn’t the best plan... too many hours in the car, higher cost than traveling around, and you can find nice and affordable accommodations everywhere. That’s what I was told on this forum when I planned the trip I took with friends, and I confirmed these tips were spot-on... No hard feelings, neighbor?😛, 😉

Aït Bouguemez, wow!! A bit too far, no??? Otherwise, with La Cathédrale, it's gorgeous!

Totally agree with you, and I’ll even go further... Agafay? Meh, meh, meh, and meh. Best left to the "All-Inclusive" crowds at Fram and the like.

Yeah, it's not exactly next door, but with an overnight stay, it's doable.

Going via Demnate, it's less than 200 kilometers (meaning almost 4 hours on the road 😏).

Something like this:

yes, and it's worth it

If you assume Bruno will spend a night there, then there are hundreds of places to see! In that case, I’d definitely recommend Ait Ben Haddou. Especially for the road and the landscapes.

It's a lot less wild...

When you read between the lines, it seems Bruno’s friends are more into "spa - massage - restaurant - villa" than wild roads and landscapes. Not a judgment, though. I also think the Morocco "experts" will give the right answer. In the end, Bruno will follow the advice (or not 😛)

So the best thing is not to leave Marrakech. 😄😛

(I'm not sure Ait Ben Haddou would work either. Essaouira, on the other hand, could be an option.)

Reading between the lines, it seems Bruno’s friends are more into "spa - massage - restaurant - villa" than roads and wild landscapes.

I’ll respond collectively by picking up on Catherine’s message—she read between the lines well. It’s a judgment, but it’s spot-on! Spa, massages, and restaurants will be the keywords for this trip. That’s why I’m looking for 2 or max 3 day trips, self-guided because we rented cars (at 150 € a week, we’re not holding back).

I initially suggested a road trip, but that idea was quickly shot down 😕

So, it’ll be villa stays with day trips. Believe me, when I see your amazing posts, I tell myself I’ll go back my own way 😉

Anyway, thanks for all your advice—I’ll compile everything and get back to you for more details.

For now, here’s what I’m keeping in mind:

- At least 2 days to visit Marrakech. I’ll probably hire a guide to keep my group in check (don’t feel like playing babysitter!) - Essaouira for the day—we’ll leave at 6 AM. (I’d love the address of that fish restaurant!) - Imlil looks nice, but isn’t it redundant with Ouzoud? - Agafay for an evening under a Berber tent with quad biking/camel rides. Not my thing at all, but I’ve got some Fram folks in the group… Unless you have another similar option (or a standout provider)

I’ll look into the rest…

PS: There won’t be any travel journals when we get back!

"Spa, massage, and restaurants will be the keywords for the trip." Huh? No, I didn’t say anything... 😏😏😏

Imlil has nothing to do with Ouzoud.

Even with a, uhhh, Fram mindset, I don’t see the point of going to Ouzoud.

Okay, you can buy peanuts to feed the monkeys, buy tons of tacky souvenirs, and walk between a thousand shops and restaurants blocking the view. Plus, the waterfall can turn out to be really underwhelming...

If you’re going to travel miles, I agree with Kate on Aït Ben Haddou. Ouzoud is honestly the last place I’d go back to in Morocco... I’d even prefer Merzouga!

I’d initially suggested a multi-stop trip, but they quickly shot me down

I think you could’ve managed a Essaouira/Marrakech combo.

And what about something like this?

(The provider is just an example... I don’t know them)

- Essaouira for the day, we'll leave at 6 AM... (I'd love the address of the fish restaurant)

Sam’s restaurant. And while I’m at it, my latest discovery in Marrakech: Chez Zaza. I really loved the place, and Zaza’s cooking is delicious.

I’ll keep your address in mind for lunch. 😉 For dinner, it’s a bit too dry for me... (Non-alcoholic wine??? I’d never seen that on a menu before. 😮)

I’ll keep your address in mind for lunch. ;)

Which one are you talking about? Whenever I go to Morocco, I always take an alcohol break. ;)

I’ll respond to the collective by revisiting Catherine’s message—she really read between the lines... it’s a judgment, but it’s the right one! Spa, massage, and dining will be the keywords for the stay.

No, Bruno! 😛 Or else I’d be shooting myself in the foot, knowing that when I travel, I’m all about multi-programming. Apart from your villa rental—and I told you this privately—for me, Marrakech means a Riad. Traditional accommodation, prime location... The space just for you, the peace and quiet, the service, the terrace, the pool—you could’ve had all that in a Riad. For everything else, whatever you do, you’ll have a blast. Because you’re with friends, because it’s vacation, because it’s Morocco, because it’s exotic, because we only live once 😉

When I said your judgment was right, it’s because I would’ve preferred 3 or 4 days in Marrakech and a loop trip somewhere—I don’t know where, but that’s the basis of a discovery trip…

But that’s not the choice that was made, so we’re adapting. It’s even simpler for booking choices.

Riad or villa—the choice was settled, but since we’re going as scouts with my best friends 😉 (there are five of us), I obviously booked a riad in the medina for the two extra nights! So I’ll compare once we’re there!

For the rest, I’m not worried—we’ll have a blast!!

Quick question: I saw there are "fantasia" dinner shows (like Chez Ali). Has anyone tried them? Is it worth spending a bit of money on what you get? Don’t talk to me about authenticity—I get the concept… Just wondering if you’ve tried it and liked it.

I was talking about the one in Marrakech!

I can never resist local drinks, which is why I enjoy drinking wine in Morocco! 😛

(Weirdly, the non-alcoholic ones are French... )

Your address in Essaouira has a license and offers something unusual—Israeli wine! (Well, if I understood correctly.) About this place, when did you go? Some comments mention a drop in quality since the change of address and the former owner leaving.

My ex had tried a fantasia, but it was a long time ago during a work dinner. The address had been chosen by Moroccans, so. He liked it.

I was talking about the one in Marrakech!

I can never resist local drinks, which is why I love drinking wine in Morocco!😛

It’s not me, who worked 15 years for a famous Bordeaux wine merchant—also the leading wine producer in Morocco—who’s gonna tell you otherwise. Morocco has some really great products (and some not-so-great ones too, but that’s everywhere, right?)

Maybe your old boss started a non-alcoholic wine business?🤪 Still, it’s a great niche to develop among more conservative Muslims.

For your friends, how about visiting a Moroccan winery? Well, I don’t think that’s in the area.

Your place in Essaouira has a license and serves Israeli wine! (If I understood correctly) When did you go to this place? Some reviews mention a drop in quality since the change of address and the departure of the former owner.

I went there last September. It’s my friend’s usual spot—she lives in Essaouira. She knows the owner well; did he give us better service than other customers? We ate really well. I’ve seen the TA reviews—they’re mixed, as usual. But it was a great value for money, especially since prices in Essaouira are getting more and more "French," and tourists aren’t spared from scams.

Quick question: I saw there are dinner shows called "fantasia" (like at Ali's place).

Ask Perju—he knows all about shows in the Palmeraie hotels

Is it worth spending a bit of money on what you get there?

Watch out for scams in this area... Honestly, I’d rather eat at La Mamounia!

(if we want a travel journal, we’ve gotta have a laugh on VF from time to time 😛)

The Mamounia, wow! Oh yes, of course! Good call! Hee hee hee hee

I saw the TA reviews—they’re mixed as usual.

3.5 is *super* mixed! 🤪

Either they’ve got enemies on the ground, or the quality varies wildly for one-time customers.

That rating’s gotta hurt. Personally, a 3.5 is a deal-breaker for me—I won’t even read the comments. 😮

Quick question: I saw there are dinner shows called “fantasia” (like at Ali’s place).

Ask Perju—he knows all about the shows in the Palmeraie hotels

Is there an inside joke here?

Is it worth spending a bit of money on what you get there?

Watch out for scams in this area... Honestly, I’d rather eat at La Mamounia!

Not the same budget, in my opinion…

(Yeah, yeah, if we want a travel journal, we’ve gotta have a laugh on VF from time to time :P)

Not even in my dreams!

Ask Perju, he knows all about shows in the Palmeraie hotels 😏

Is there an inside joke?

No, no, I guess Kate anticipated my possible reaction...😏

Recently, my neighbor asked me for advice about going with some of his friends from Haute-Savoie to spend a week in a "nomad" camp in Merzouga, complete with spa, camel rides, dinners with musical entertainment, etc... He wanted something "authentic"... I don’t remember what I recommended to him...😏 That said, at one point, I thought you two were leaving together...

Anyway, it’s just humor... nothing else, okay! 😉

I don’t have any friends on that side of the mountains, but it could’ve been fun. Plus, I’ve been told Mergouza is too far 😉

This isn’t about searching for authenticity—just entertaining my group of “framissime” friends (if they’re reading this, I’m dead ). On the contrary, the kitschier, the funnier it’ll be for me!

Any thoughts?

On the contrary, the kitschier it is, the more it’ll make me laugh :)

Any thoughts?

In that case... I’ve heard great things about the Agafay Desert...😏

Whereabouts in HS are you from?

You might find what you're looking for here 😉

The Antique seems to be worth its weight in peanuts! 😄

On the contrary, the kitschier it is, the more it’ll make me laugh :D

Any thoughts? In that case... I’ve heard great things about the Agafay Desert... ;)

Which part of HS are you from?

Ah, finally someone who defends my desert!

Actually, this is what I’d really like an opinion on: https://www.fantasia-marrakech.com/

From my house, I can see Mont Blanc up close ;)

L'Antiq seems worth its weight in peanuts!

Didn’t get that

You might find what you're looking for here 😉

He didn’t say they were rich, he said they were Fram! 😉

It's in the link I shared... There's a dinner show called l'Antiq. Looks amazing from the photos... (More of a peplum style, though)

You can be rich and still book with Fram! 😄