Narinda Bay to Mahajanga by boutre (Madagascar)

hey everyone, I’m planning a trip in July: I’d like to take a minibus from Tana to Mahajanga, then continue on to Antsohihy and Narinda Bay, take time to explore the area (Nosy Lava), and then head back down to Mahajanga if possible by boutre or, if not, by the track if it exists. Just to clarify, I’ve got a bike and all the time in the world. Has anyone done this or have any info? Thanks in advance!!

Hi there, there are boutre boats that transport goods on this route, but they probably won’t make tourist stops, and their schedules are unpredictable, so you can’t really count on them. Instead, you could negotiate a pirogue with an outrigger (sail and motorized) in Majunga to take you and stop wherever you want, finishing in Analalava. As for the road, it’s best to go from Analalava to Antsohihy in one day since there are only small huts along the way—no place for a vazaha to spend the night. Happy planning!

Hi Gasilahy, I’d be really interested in a trip by motorized pirogue or boutre. I’ve seen a lot of types of pirogues or what locals call *vedettes*. They’re actually quite large "pirogues" or vedettes that can carry a lot of people (which is what I’m looking for). Are those the ones you’re talking about? Also, do you think it’s possible to take a trip like that between July and August? I think that’s the *varatraza* season. Is it doable or is it dangerous? For example, do you know how long a non-stop trip between Mahajanga and Analava would take during July and August? Thanks so much for your reply

hi The hardest part is finding a boutre or a large ferry!! And the biggest challenge with boutres is the wind—if it's against you, it takes *forever*, so plan plenty of extra time. For ferries, be careful—they're often overloaded, which leads to accidents and even fatalities because they often lack life jackets. I tried to go from Majunga to Maintirano over 20 years ago, but I had to get off at Soalala because we were already 4 days behind schedule by the halfway point. (I managed to catch a plane—back then, there were still Twin Otters for secondary routes.) It’s up to you!!

hi there the hardest part is finding the boutre or the big speedboat!! and especially for boutres, the wind is the main issue—if it's against you, it takes forever, so plan lots of extra time. up to you!!

Hey Jipi, it's Kabary—I haven't seen a post from you in ages. I know a bit about boutres since I've taken them before. Like I said, I've got plenty of time, so that's fine. I was thinking of taking a boat from the Antsohihy river port to Ananalava—this part shouldn't be too complicated. It's the next leg I'm looking for info on: I want to head back down to Mahajanga, then Morondava, then Morombe, Tulear. I know that area really well, so no issues there. The unknown is Narinda to Mahajanga, so I'm open to any tips. Veloma

hi if you've got time, the wind's okay depending on the season, but between September and December it usually comes from the south or southwest between Besalampy and Tulear. For the river descent, no problem, but do it during the day and watch out for overloading—it's really common!!! Between Antsohihy and Analalava. But to find a boutre, it's better to look first in Analalava or check directly in Antsohihy. From Mahajanga to Morondava, if you've got time, you'll find one. Be careful—the Malagasy are great sailors, but nighttime navigation isn't ideal (most shipwrecks happen at night). I'm a retired merchant marine captain, so I've seen it all, hahaha. For the rest, *inch'Allah*!!!

Oh yeah, back in October 1997 I did Tulear to Morondava by Vezo pirogue—what an epic adventure! We slept under the sail on the beach or in Vezo villages. We had to switch pirogues in Morombe. We got some south/southwest wind, which is the dominant wind at that time of year. Nowadays I only do 4x4—after 37 years at sea, the ocean’s just for swimming!😎

Thanks for the info—I’ll start looking into it in Antsohihy or Analalava. If I can find a boat (boutre or pirogue) to get to Mahajanga, that’d work great (departure from Anjajavy?). I’m not feeling up for 350 km by bike, even *mora-mora*—well, you never know, I guess! Otherwise, I never travel at night, whether by land or sea. I’ve been caught twice by nightfall in a pirogue with bad winds, and I’ve got zero desire to repeat that... Later!

Departure from Antsohihy, no problem getting to Analalava—boutre leave every day, but you have to wait for the tide. After that, things get trickier... I once took a boutre from Maintirano to Mahajanga. I waited a week for it to fill up, then 5 days for the crossing... But you gotta try it! I also asked about leaving from Nosy Be once but couldn’t find anything.

Departure from Antsohihy, no problem to get to Analalava, boats leave every day, but you have to wait for the tide. After that, it gets more complicated... I once took a boutre from Maintirano to Mahajanga. I waited a week for it to fill up, then 5 days for the crossing... Well, you gotta try it! I once asked about leaving from Nosy Be but didn’t find anything.

Thanks for the info, as I said, I’ve got all the time in the world so I should make it... I’ll try to find a boat from Anjajavy, and if not, I’ll go back to Analalava.

New question: Are there any small hotels in the area (not the one owned by JJ Annaud... 😉)

Hi! [...] The descent track exists, but it can be pretty rough depending on the season. With a bike and some time, you'll love it!

Thanks for the info! That was the big question: coastal track or not. I usually go well after the rainy season, and it's generally pretty dry, so it should be okay. My only worry is the sand... 🙁 😕 Time, as you've gathered, is something I've got plenty of... Have a good day