New Walks from Jodhpur to Narnaul (Feb 24) (page 1 of 5)

I’ve been busy—here’s another travel journal on Rajasthan, with some new discoveries as always.

Thursday, January 25: I left home at 4:30 AM and headed to Barcelona airport. The roads weren’t blocked by farmers yet, so I made the trip without any issues. I arrived at the airport at 7:10 AM, called Parkvia, and someone picked up my car 15 minutes later. All that was left was to check in my luggage. My Etihad flight was at 10:25 AM, which gave me time for breakfast. We landed in Abu Dhabi at 7:30 PM. The flight to Delhi was at 10:15 PM, the transfer went smoothly without any stress, and we arrived in Delhi at 3:00 AM. I couldn’t waste any time upon arrival because I had a flight to Jodhpur at 6:55 AM. I got to customs, and what a nice surprise—the hall was empty. I went through immediately, had my passport and visa checked, and everything was fine. I grabbed my bag quickly and looked for the transfer to T2, which is outside. You have to walk along the taxi parking lot and take the long corridors—it’s well signposted, and the transfer took 10 minutes. At first, I was a little stressed, not knowing how long customs would take, but in the end, I was early for my 6:55 AM flight. I’m even glad I booked this one, as it got me to Jodhpur at 8:20 AM.

When I arrived, I took an auto-rickshaw to Jodhpur Palace GH, which I’d booked on Booking. The welcome was nice, and I was given a room right away. I was hoping to rest a bit, but unfortunately, it was very noisy. I settled in, took a shower, and was ready to go out and explore the city. The owner stopped me as I was leaving and told me I had to change rooms—I had to repack my bag before heading out. He showed me the way to the clock tower, which is about a 15-minute walk away.

A market lines the street leading to the tower, and the traffic is intense.



I set off in search of the stepwells and Gulab Sagar, a large basin with three water jets and a great view of Mehrangarh Fort. And yes, more baoris!



Toorji Ka Jhalra Bawdi isn’t far away. It’s a meet-up spot for tourists, with restaurants and terraces lining the area. The place is nice.





I looked for Mahila Bagh Ka Jhalra, went around in circles a bit, and finally found it right across from Gulab Sagar, where I’d already been. It’s not in good condition—it’s a shame it hasn’t been restored.



I went back through the clock tower area, found a currency exchange with a good rate, and booked my train tickets for the whole trip. The street was lively, with heavy traffic.





I was tired and headed back to the guesthouse. When I got there, I realized my phone wasn’t showing the right time, which gave me a chance to rest before going out for dinner. The Indigo restaurant is nearby and will be perfect.

Wow Marie Jo, you seem a bit hyperactive both on VF and in your travels 😄. Kudos for heading out to explore the city right after that long trip! I’m exhausted just reading about it, but I’ll follow your new adventures with great pleasure as always 😊. Christelle

Indeed, you don't take it easy, Marie Jo, for our greatest pleasure! 🙂

Hi Marie Jo, A new travel journal I’ll follow with pleasure
F60A You’ve got courage—writing a journal is a lot of work! We almost crossed paths in Jodhpur; we were there in February 2024
F60A, staying not far from the baori you mention. I’m looking forward to your next discoveries—curious where you’ll take us next!

Okay, there are people waiting for me, so I’ll get back to it now that the French won the rugby match . Too bad, Gabriele—we could’ve met up in Jodhpur. I would’ve taken you along to my next stop, but for now, I’m still here in Jodhpur. Here we go again!!

Saturday, January 27th As I left the guesthouse, I asked the owner for directions to Mehrangarh Fort. He told me to wait and quickly returned with his motorcycle. He gave me a ride up to the path leading to the fortress, which let me enjoy a quick motorbike trip and arrive faster—something I really appreciated. Along the way, he stopped to buy some fried flatbread and offered me one. Cool, this trip is off to a great start. The climb is a bit steep, and the blue houses are everywhere.



Gypsies are at the entrance of the fort.



The fortress is imposing, and as soon as I passed the first gate, I headed down toward the gardens. The views of Jodhpur and the fortress itself are stunning.



Loha Pol, the last gate, houses wall plaques with raised handprints of women (wives, concubines, and servants) who committed *sati* upon the death of a maharaja. It’s said that 6 queens and 58 concubines immolated themselves on the funeral pyre of Ajit Singh in 1724.



The exterior of the fort is grand, with its palaces and courtyards. The balconies with intricately carved *jalis* in pink sandstone are impressive.



Howdah Chamber. This room houses a magnificent collection of *howdahs* (seats for riding elephants, decorated with beautiful silver ornaments). One priceless and unique historical *howdah* is made of silver. Palki Khana Palanquins were a mode of travel for royal and noble ladies until the mid-20th century.

Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors), this was Maharajah Ajit Singh’s chamber. Under the arches are painted panels depicting all the deities.

Phool Mahal (Palace of Flowers) A grand and lavishly decorated reception hall. It was likely a private audience chamber and probably also used for listening to music.



Takhat Niwas—every surface from floor to ceiling is painted, and the windows are filled with colored glass tiles.



Zenana (Palace of Women) The courtyard, surrounded by balconies with carved *jali*, is grand—it’s the oldest part of the fort.



Moti Mahal (Palace of Pearls)—its name comes from the quality of the lime plaster used, mixed with finely ground shells, giving the room’s surfaces a pearly sheen. The alcoves at the back are secret balconies where queens could listen to debates.



Final courtyard. The visit ends in this even more impressive courtyard, surrounded by beautifully carved gates.



At the exit of the fort, I walked down the street to Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park (entry 200 Rs). Three marked trails (yellow, green, red) run through the park. Right now, the vegetation is dry, but you can still see the fortress. At this hour, though, the sun is strong, and the photos aren’t great—I’ve hit my limit for the day.

I’m heading back through the neighborhood of the blue houses, once the homes of Brahmins, which also helped keep mosquitoes away.



The life of the neighborhood, its shops, its crafts… a great place to get some fresh air.





I return to the clock tower—it’s 3 PM, time to grab something to eat and rest a bit. Yesterday, I spotted some street food and a samosa vendor. Behind his shop, I find a spot to settle in, and I’m not the only one—it must be the meet-up spot for picnics. The Shri Mishrila Hotel, famous for its delicious lassis, is just across the gate, and the temptation is too strong to resist. It’s well-known, and the crowd here is impressive. You can enjoy it sitting down if you’re lucky enough to find a seat, which I do, while many others stand outside.

I can continue my walks, and I get a rickshaw to Jaswant Thada (entry 100 rs). It’s a beautiful cenotaph with a great view of the fort. The façade is made of finely sculpted white marble sheets.







On the way back, I have the rickshaw drop me off at the stepwell, where I can relax for a moment before heading back to the GH.

This Jodhpur fort is absolutely stunning!! But is the city as noisy as Jaipur?

Not very different from Jaipur. You can walk around on foot just like in Udaipur. The old town is nice, even if I prefer Udaipur.

No, actually, it’s way more pleasant than Jaipur. You could say it’s kind of a mix between Jaipur’s frenzy and the calm of some parts of Udaipur’s old city. I’ve had to go there four or five times, and among the major stops, Jodhpur is, for me, a bit like the soul of Rajasthan.

So excited to discover your travel journal! We're heading to Rajasthan for three weeks in mid-March... I'll definitely be taking notes, even though I've already done a ton of research. Anyway, thanks so much for sharing and for the photos. GHISLAINE

Welcome, Pagaljavab! The next step happened thanks to you, so thanks again!!!

Sunday, January 28th. The night was very short—last night there was music late into the evening, and this morning at 5 AM they started up loud conversations again. With my light sleep, I hear every noise. When do they sleep? I always wonder, but one thing’s for sure: nothing bothers them. This morning, I planned to visit the Mandore Gardens, and I quickly found a rickshaw to take me there. The gardens are very well maintained, with grand royal cenotaphs, a museum, and a ruined fort. Mandore was the capital of Marwar until the mid-15th century, when Jodhpur—with its hilltop—was preferred, and its citadel was built there.







The museum and the three-story Ekthamba Mahal tower are at the back of the garden.



The path continues and leads to the ruined fort. Monkeys have taken over the place—they’re not aggressive and let me pass. I climb to the top, where there’s a great view of the gardens.





I retrace my steps, and at the garden exit, small buses shuttle back to Jodhpur. I take one and get off before the terminus to visit Umaid Bhavan Palace. My neighbor on the bus tells me the right price for a rickshaw (100 rs), which I negotiate firmly. Part of the Palace is open for visits (200 rs), and there are a lot of us touring it. The hall with the car collection is right across from the building, so you can see it in full.



Several rooms are open to visitors—one with an original clock collection, another with family photos, and another with paintings of deities.



After the visit, I take a rickshaw to the stepwell and have lunch on a terrace—my first aloo paratha, what a treat! The guy is really nice, and I’m the only customer.





I pass by the tower again to enjoy a good lassi among the many food lovers. Tonight, I’m dining again at Indigo restaurant, and several tables are occupied by French people. The food is still delicious. Street music makes me leave the restaurant quickly—a groom-to-be is on a horse, his head covered, accompanied by his family, guests, and a loud sound system. Subtlety isn’t their thing! I follow them for a little while before heading back to bed

Welcome, Ghislaine. I hope you’ll find some great ideas. You also have my previous travel journal, "Offbeat Rajasthan."

Monday, January 29th and Tuesday, January 30th. I leave the guesthouse at 9 AM and head to the bus station. I'm off to Barmer, and we depart Jodhpur at 9:30 AM—no waiting, which is awesome. I can't visit Rajasthan without exploring off-the-beaten-path spots, and I think Barmer is one of them. We arrive at 2 PM, and I check into the Kailash International Hotel (1500 Rs, breakfast included). The staff is friendly, and the room is quite nice. My stay is off to a great start. It's late (3 PM) for lunch, but they still agree to make me an aloo paratha. I spend the afternoon at the market, which is 4 km from the hotel. The atmosphere is lively and fun—I love moments like these.







Back at the hotel, I ask the reception to arrange a taxi for the next morning—departure at 9 AM to visit the Kiradu temples, 40 km away (2500 Rs round trip).

We tried it once for several days with a driver, but I much prefer taking a taxi from hotel to hotel and then getting around by tuk-tuk or scooter 😄. At least you’re sure not to get "stranded" in the middle of the trip 😅

I really want to thank Pagaljavab because if I came to Barmer, it’s all thanks to you! (https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=8136492;search_string=barmer)

Breakfast is served buffet-style—it’s hearty, which is perfect for starting the day. The taxi arrives late, but it’s no big deal. We head toward Pakistan; the road is new and really beautiful. The landscape is desert-like, though we still pass by small hamlets.

We drive past several military camps before reaching the temples. The road ends at the entrance to the complex, where soldiers are also waiting for it to open. They’re responsible for cleaning the site. The guard is absent—we have to wait for him to return. He went to have breakfast in the village. Across the way, a path leads up the hill, offering a great view of the temples.



A shepherd pays us a visit—he’s so handsome and agrees to a photo session. I get my camera ready.



The guard finally arrives. (Entry is 200 rs, and cameras are banned—luckily, phones are allowed.) The soldiers leave to maintain the site; the paths are paved, benches line the walkways, and the place is stunning and spotless. There are five temples left—three at the entrance and two others in the wilderness. They date back to the 11th century.



With every step, I’m amazed—it’s so beautiful, incredible, breathtaking. I don’t know how many times I said those words during the visit, but I’ll always remember this place as something truly special.





The ones farther out in nature are just as impressive.





The sculptures are all magnificent—apsaras, elephants, horses, erotic scenes, battle scenes—everything is represented here. I’m completely in awe of this visit. I meet a young couple from Jaipur who invite me to their place, but my trip isn’t heading that way. Too bad—it was really sweet of them.



Back at the hotel, I take a walk to the end of the street, where I find a lively little market. Men with impressive mustaches agree to let me photograph them and invite me to have chai with them.

From Wednesday, January 31 to Saturday, February 3. Jaisalmer Today I’m leaving Barmer (I really loved this stay, and the image of those temples with their extraordinarily fine sculptures is still in my eyes—I’ve seen many across the country, but these truly amazed me). I take the bus at 9:30 AM and head to Jaisalmer, arriving around 1 PM. I’ve booked at Surya GH, inside the fort. The rickshaw crosses the city to reach the fort, and we pass a lot of tourists. Inside the fort, tourist shops line up one after another. I’m not used to these very touristy cities, but I’ve only been here once, a long time ago, so I wanted to spend a few days here. I check into my room, which overlooks the courtyard outside and directly faces the stairs leading to the restaurant and other rooms—it might get noisy. View from the GH terrace



I head out to scout for my visits planned for the next day. I pass by the Jain temples, which I’ll visit early tomorrow. I leave the fort through a beautiful gate and wander the alleys in search of havelis.





I make my way to Gavisar Lake to watch the sunset. There’s a sound-and-light show with water jets at sunset. A lot of us are here to watch. I don’t stay until the end and head back to the GH. This lake was originally built to conserve rainwater, and given its importance, small temples were constructed around it.

The portrait of this shepherd Marie Jo is gorgeous! 🙂

What a great idea to follow Pagaljavab’s advice and go through Barmer, which we didn’t know about. Gorgeous sculptures and a lovely portrait of a shepherd!

The portrait of this shepherd is stunning! Thanks, Isabelle. I hope you’ll enjoy the other portraits throughout the travel journal. I love photographing people and street scenes. Not talking about temples here.

If you're stopping in Jodhpur, make sure to check out Barmer—it's amazing and those temples 🤩😍