Practical tips after 3 months in Morocco

MOROCCO END 2024 / BEGINNING 2025 Off-season, I was lucky enough to negotiate hotel prices. I should also mention that this was for a solo traveler until December 30th. After that, there’ll be three of us! Practical info. Here’s all the info I gathered during my 3-month trip. Cities: TANGIER / CHEFCHAOUEN / FES / MOULAY IDRISS, VOLUBILIS / AZROU / MIDELT / ERRACHIDIA / RISSANI / MERZOUGA / TINGHIR / BOUMLANE DADES, AIT OUGLIF / OUARZAZATE / TALIOUINE / TAROUDANT / TIZNIT / TAFRAOUT / SIDI IFNI, LEGZIRA / AGADIR / ESSAOUIRA / MARRAKECH ///

From there, we’ll be three people. Cities: IMLIL / OUARZAZATE / AGDZ / ZAGORA / AIT BEN HADDOU / MARRAKECH / ESSAOUIRA / CASABLANCA. (Generally, I found that mattresses in Morocco were quite hard. My solution: I put two, even three folded blankets on the mattress to add some softness. Wi-Fi almost never works in the room.)

Tangier: Hôtel Fuentes Petit Socco, Old Medina +212 539 934 669 (For one person, end of October) Upon arrival, 19 € for a double room with a private bathroom. Breakfast included. Chefchaouen: Dar Besmellah Av Ibn Askar +212 539 986 489 (For one person, end of October). I don’t recommend it. A small, low-ceilinged room with a window facing a patio. Very dark and damp. Shared bathroom. 9 € Dar Bleu Pearl N° 4 Derb Benyaakoub +212 (0)539 88 28 86. Negotiated on-site to 130 MAD instead of 160 on Booking. Small room, furniture, Wi-Fi, private bathroom. Fes: Riad Alfredo or Riad Rocco—it’s the same place. It’s in a very narrow alley. N° 15 Derb Sidi Kjih or Qjih Talla Sagira +212 662 769 688 (see photos and virtual tour) Negotiated to 13 € on-site; on Booking, it was 16 €. Breakfast included. Atypical Anne room with private bathroom, Wi-Fi. The room is a bit dark. One of the best beds on my trip. Again, this was for a solo traveler off-season (end of October to end of December). Moulay Idriss: Gite El Menzeh (see the map) Negotiated on-site to 14 € with breakfast; on Booking, it was 24 €. I also negotiated for dinner—very good and hearty—for 5 € (the manager wanted 20 €). I stayed in the large upstairs room with a double bed, window, and private bathroom, not the tiny windowless rooms downstairs. Azrou: Hôtel des Cèdres Place Mohamed V. (see the map and photos) Negotiated 13 € instead of 16 € on Booking for a room with two small beds and a private bathroom. This hotel is honestly run-down and not worth the price at all. The owner thinks it’s a very classy hotel because of its old reputation! Midelt: Chez Ali, city center (see map) Negotiated to 14 € instead of 17 € on Booking. Room with two beds, bathroom, window, small terrace, and Wi-Fi. Er Rachidia: Hôtel El Fekri. Rue Moulay Abdalah Ben Ali (see map and photos) Couldn’t negotiate on-site—14 €, but on Booking, it was 5 € more! Rissani: Hôtel Restaurant Panorama +212 615 978 445 Well, I’d say skip it. Rooms without windows and shared bathrooms. Or on the terrace, there’s a sort of space with a big bed and a small bed behind a locked iron door with a window and an external bathroom that’s also used by people eating on the terrace. If there are people on the terrace, forget about privacy! Not to mention the internet doesn’t work, and the bed is as hard as a straw mat. All that for 150 MAD—luckily, I didn’t book through Booking, or it would’ve been more expensive!!! I didn’t stay. This closet isn’t even worth 100 MAD—and even that’s too much! A little further on, I went to a hotel where no one spoke English or anything else. I got a large room with 3 beds, a private bathroom, and Wi-Fi for 100 MAD. Merzouga: Said’s apartment +212 618 659 264. No real address—it’s right next to a souvenir shop, far from the center. (see photos) 15 €. The apartment is large with two bedrooms and all the comforts. But for me, it was too far from the village. Chez Belkecem: Marked on GPS. I don’t have any coordinates (see photos). +212 666 911 732 Negotiated on-site to 13 € with breakfast; on Booking, it was 2 € more. The room is decorated in a Berber style, with a private bathroom and a window to the outside. The worst breakfast I had in Morocco! Tinghir: Dar Al Medina Av Mohamed V (see map) Beautiful hotel negotiated to 13 € instead of 18 € on Booking. Breakfast included, Wi-Fi, room with a double bed and a single bed, window, and private bathroom. (Top floor) Boumlane Dades: Auberge Tamazirt (no contact) see GPS. Negotiated to 13 € with breakfast. It’s rustic, but I had a private bathroom, a large bed, Wi-Fi, a window, and a double bed. And the best part—the super-friendly owner gave me one of the gas heaters from the hallway. Aït Ouglif: Hôtel Aït Marghad. (See the map) Negotiated to 150 MAD instead of 240 MAD with breakfast. The place was half-closed because it was off-season. Room with a double bed on the ground floor, window, Wi-Fi, and bathroom. Heating provided—essential. The hassle was that there was almost no hot water. Ouarzazate: Hôtel Atlas 13 rue du marché +212 524 887 745 It’s on the pedestrian street. (See photos) Negotiated to 13 €. Old-fashioned room, double bed with a very hard mattress. Private bathroom, window, and Wi-Fi. Taliouine: Hôtel Le Safran. A 20-minute walk from the center—no other choice. Otherwise, there are a few local hotels, but even if I’m not always picky, there are limits. (See the map) Negotiated from 300 MAD to 200 MAD. Breakfast, Wi-Fi, window, king-size bed, private bathroom. The room is large (No. 11). (There’s a pool in the hotel.) Hôtel Atlas Bordeaux: +212 666 752 292 (next to the bus station) Usually, I’m not too picky, but honestly, skip this one. This place could be good because it’s central if: the cleaning was thorough. The bathrooms need to be redone... etc. No sheets—just a sort of blanket on the mattress and another to cover yourself. Obviously not clean. No towel. A bathroom that hasn’t been cleaned in way too long. In short, absolutely avoid. 120 MAD! Taroudant: Hôtel (mini) Atlas Bld Mansour Eddahbi (see map and photos) Double room with window, large bed, private bathroom, Wi-Fi (not great). A hotel that doesn’t look like much but is sparkling clean! 90 MAD for a single, 120 MAD for a double. Tiznit: Résidence Chem (see map) 100 MAD for a room with two single beds (very hard), window, private bathroom, and Wi-Fi. Clean but poorly maintained. Tafraout: Espace Tifawine (see the map). Hotel with a pool. Negotiated to 14 € on-site instead of 30 € on Booking. I could even choose my room. A large room with two beds—one big and one small. A large bathroom, a window, and Wi-Fi. Sidi Ifni: Hôtel Suerte Loca. (No contact, see GPS) I paid 140 MAD for a room in this dive—no negotiation possible. My room had a tiny terrace, the walls were repainted, but it’s super noisy (neighbors). Worse, when someone uses the water, there’s a loud machinery noise. That’s not all—the mattress is really worn out and sagging. The bathroom isn’t great. The Wi-Fi doesn’t work! This place still enjoys its old reputation, but it’s really run-down, and everything is old. The bedding is the worst I had in Morocco. Skip it. There’s much better for cheaper elsewhere! Hôtel La Belle Vue: Just before Suerte Loca +212 528 875 242 The reception staff was more than unfriendly. After seeing the rooms, I didn’t stay because the bedding would’ve been like sleeping on a yoga mat. Obviously not worth the 200 MAD asked for. Hôtel Aït Baamrane. Further down on the beach. Same price as above. The only difference is that everything is in good condition and comfortable, with a warm welcome.

Hôtel Safa: (see the map and photos.) On-site, no negotiation possible—200 MAD; on Booking, it was over 350 MAD. Huge room with all the luxury you could hope for. Breakfast included, large bay window, king-size bed, TV, Wi-Fi, furniture, and of course, a private bathroom. Agadir: Hôtel Kamal (see map) The only hotel I booked through Booking because there was a good discount. Except on-site, the hotel never wanted to give me the discount. At night, small insects that strongly resemble cockroaches—yet it’s high-end with doormen, etc. I contacted Booking, but nothing worked! I paid 250 MAD! Essaouira: Hôtel Elkasbah Souiria (See map and photo) Small room (No. 18) with a single bed and all the comforts. Private bathroom, window, Wi-Fi, and breakfast included (all-you-can-eat buffet). No negotiation possible—200 MAD. Chez Lina: Rue El Khemiset +212 658 042 562 (she speaks French) Large apartment with two bedrooms. Private bathroom on the landing. Wi-Fi. New, so not yet well set up. Far from the center. I paid 15 € instead of 18 € on Booking. Marrakech: Hôtel Atlas 50 rue Sidi Bouloukate +212 661 358 662 Tiny room on the ground floor with a shared bathroom. Wi-Fi, tiny window, very dark and noisy. 12 €

On December 31st, I’m joined by friends. The rooms will be for three people. Marrakech: Hôtel Agnaou 10 avenue or passage Moulay Rachid. +212 705 306 275. Negotiated on-site to 28 € for a room with a window to the outside and a private bathroom. Wi-Fi. Riad Todos: in the old medina +34 643 480 502 Watch out for extra taxes they might try to charge you. No heating. This place could be nice if better maintained. Bad smell of cat urine. Water leak in the bathroom. Wall crumbling from humidity. However, the reception staff is warm and tries to satisfy you. 120 MAD booked on Airbnb! Imlil: Auberge de la Vallée (see map) Large room with 4 beds. All comforts. Private bathroom, heating, Wi-Fi, and breakfast. Negotiated on-site to 300 MAD for three people. Ouarzazate: Hôtel Iazal: Av. Moulay Abdellah +212 524 886 187 (see photos) Very expensive for this hotel. Small room for 3 with a tiny, impractical bathroom. Heating, Wi-Fi, window. The showerhead is placed between the tiny sink and the toilet. The small space floods quickly. Far from the pedestrian center. No negotiation possible—350 MAD for three. Agdz: Guesthouse Le Chant des Palmiers. (See map) Very nice room—more like a small apartment with a fireplace corner, gas heating, private bathroom, Wi-Fi, windows, bedroom area plus two single beds. Breakfast included. Negotiated to 400 MAD for 3 people instead of 840 MAD on Booking. Zagora: Hôtel La Palmeraie. (See map) Room with bathroom, Wi-Fi (not great), heating, and window. Breakfast included. No negotiation—300 MAD (for 3). Aït Ben Haddou: Auberge La Barraka (see the map) Large, beautiful room with windows, Wi-Fi, heating, bathroom. Breakfast included. Pool. Negotiate a good price—but I didn’t note it down. (Around mid-January) Essaouira: El Kasbah Souiria. (See above) Room for three. Same benefits. No negotiation. 500 MAD. Casablanca: 664, Résidence Clémentine BD Mohamed V, Roches Noires. +33 6681 48002 Large, upscale apartment. Not far from Casa Voyageurs train station. Booked on Booking. 45 € (Last day, January 16th). Upon arrival, the price is always a few euros cheaper than on Booking—except in rare cases. Then, negotiation is possible or not! Prices vary depending on the season.

A few good places (for me) to eat.

Fes: Chez Hakim. (See map) Very good, hearty, and almost cheaper than anywhere else in the medina. Ouarzazate: Pasto wood-fired oven Place Al-Mouahidine +212 696 484 281 It had been a long time since I’d eaten such a good pizza (better than in most restaurants in France). At a price that beats all competition! Midelt: Berber Restaurant. (See map and photos) A dive that doesn’t look like much but is delicious at a more than affordable price. Marrakech: Dar EL WALIDIN Raid laahrouse, Rte Sidi Abdelaziz +212 653 493 637 Great selection, good food, and also cheap!

(At Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Under the warm welcome at restaurant « Chez Ali N° 65 », we got scammed out of 7 € when paying the bill! Experts at swindling.) Azrou: Snack La Forêt (see map) Again, good food at a low price. Merzouga: Snack Alafrah VOLUBILIS: The price has gone up to 100 MAD. Honestly, if you’re not an archaeology buff, it’s not worth it! BANKS: The best exchange rate I got was at BMCI. For ATMs, I paid the least fees at Banque Populaire. TRANSPORTATION:

Airport taxi Tangier to Petit Socco: 100 MAD Train: Fes to Meknès Al Amir: 35 MAD Casablanca to Airport: 60 MAD

Grand Taxis: (Shared taxi for 7 people that only leaves when full. I never waited more than 15 minutes to leave. There’s good turnover, and the vehicles are in good condition. They go faster than buses and are almost always cheaper. Prices are fixed, and you don’t pay the driver but the station chief!)

Meknès to Moulay Idriss: 12 MAD Moulay Idriss to Azrou: 35 MAD Midelt to Errachidia: 60 MAD Errachidia to Rissani: 40 MAD (I preferred this option rather than leaving at night or very early in the morning from Errachidia to Merzouga with Supratour, the only company that goes to Merzouga.) Rissani to Merzouga: 15 MAD Taliouine to Taroudant: 45 MAD (The bus is cheaper but takes longer) Taroudant to Inezgane: 35 MAD (Agadir suburb) I connected directly to Tiznit. Inezgane to Tiznit: 35 MAD Tiznit to Tafraout: 45 MAD (2-hour trip) Tiznit to Sidi Ifni: 35 MAD Agadir to Essaouira: 100 MAD Essaouira to Marrakech: 100 MAD Imlil to Marrakech: 35 MAD Grand taxi for three to Imlil: 220 MAD BUS: Tangier to Chefchaouen: 65 + 5 MAD baggage CTM Chefchaouen to Fes: 135 + 5 MAD CTM Azrou to Midelt: 50 MAD local bus Merzouga to Tinghir: 110 + 5 MAD Supratour Tinghir to Boumlane Dades: 30 + 5 MAD Supratour Boumlane Dades to Ouarzazate: 30 MAD minibus Ouarzazate to Taliouine: 60 MAD Satas company Sidi Ifni to Agadir: 95 + 5 MAD CTM Agadir to Essaouira: 70 MAD Trans Al Yamama Essaouira to Marrakech: 65 MAD Argana company Marrakech to Essaouira: 60 + 5 MAD Virago Mogador company Essaouira to Casablanca: 100 + 5 MAD

Sidi Ifni: To go to Legzira, there are green shared buses that leave every 2 hours for 6 MAD. Petit Taxis: You have to negotiate hard—the price can double. Example: In Fes, they asked me for 50 MAD from the bus station to the Blue Gate. By walking a bit further and being patient, I got a taxi for 20 MAD! Another example: From Agadir’s bus station, they asked for 40 MAD to go to Hôtel Kamal. In the end, I paid 15 MAD! Here’s all the practical info I gathered during my trip to Morocco from late October to mid-January. It’s up to you to see if it’s useful or not.

Interesting destination for a trip... This travel journal is making me dream! Can't wait to see the other photos! 🏴‍☠️😕

Oh wow, this is a *real* travel journal! No fluff, just the good stuff—can’t argue with that! I’ve been looking for solid recommendations, and this delivers!

That said, I do think it’s all still pretty pricey (I’m talking hotels here). You often say, "No negotiation possible"—don’t you think I could get the price down a bit if I push a little?

Some nice photos of hotels and restaurants (rooms, dining areas, maybe even bathrooms) would be a great addition to this already super helpful journal.

Hi there. That wasn’t my intention, in a literary sense... It says: practical information!!!

Hello. That wasn’t my intention, from a literary standpoint... It says: practical information!!!

First off, could you please avoid writing words in bold? It makes your text harder to read. Then, your post reads almost like a McKinsey accounting report ;) Anyway, it doesn’t really draw a crowd—I’d be tempted to say there’s nothing enticing about it... You should try to make it a bit more engaging, at least a little.

How poetic this travel journal is! Otherwise, did you manage to enjoy your stay between two room negotiations? That would’ve exhausted me! I dream of the day when Booking lets us rate travelers too. When will we have a list we can share of negotiators it’s best to avoid, at the risk of major headaches? 😉

😉 Don’t worry about me—I definitely enjoyed and made the most of my trip more than you can imagine. And that’s exactly why I’m sharing my tips: so travelers can skip booking sites.

What’s the point of a travel forum if not for mutual help between travelers and an exchange of USEFUL INFORMATION for those planning their future trips? What else is this site for? To describe landscapes, feelings (which are personal to each person when they experience them), post photos, talk about culture, traditions, etc.? There are thousands of sites and sources like that online! So a forum should be about helping each other, exchanging knowledge, and sharing practical information—not sterile messages that serve no purpose like yours!

You just have to read the posts from travelers looking for specific info. I’m serving up a whole bunch of helpful information on a platter (and it’s free, hahaha)—nothing more.

🙂 You guys just make me laugh! Who knows McKinsey? If you're not interested in the info I'm sharing, just move on. It's always the same—people can't help but criticize.

MY INFO IS, AS STATED IN THE TITLE, PRECISE INFORMATION? IN THAT SENSE, YOU COULD ALMOST SAY I’M ACTING AS A GUIDE (LIKE LE GUIDE DU ROUTARD)😉

And there’s nothing titillating about it—I didn’t post this to write prose or poetry.

As mentioned in the forum header: "Avoid off-topic or very short replies like 'chit-chat.'" I won’t be following this discussion anymore because the responses are pointless and don’t help travelers who are hungry for practical info.

The info I share is a goldmine for those who don’t travel in luxury and want to budget their trip. 😄😄😄 If it’s not seen that way, that’s too bad. I’m still convinced that at some point, it *will* be useful.

Well, personally, I think this post is totally in the spirit of a travel forum where we share our great tips. Yours could be useful for budget travelers. At most, you could’ve lightened your message by mentioning the price you paid without always talking about Booking.com and your negotiation! A header like ‘book directly, it’ll be cheaper than on Booking.com’ would’ve been enough.

We read the same description of the same boat trip in the South 50 times, with 10 photos at every stop—those that everyone takes… If you don’t know, for example, that in Skoura (which has dozens of hostels) the Gîte de la Palmeraie is amazing and the potter is great with kids, then you’re just not paying attention. 😄

I appreciate posts that uncover less beaten paths and share more off-the-radar spots. That’s the spirit of a forum, normally.

I’m not talking about those who constantly describe their misfortunes with their clients… bordering on indirect advertising.

Even if your spots aren’t what I’m looking for, thanks for sharing them with fellow travelers.

Moralizers are everywhere on forums! Keep saying what you want—people who aren’t interested don’t have to read it. Your title was clear.

Keep it up! !

Yes, well, the practical info highlighted in bold on every line in Mrtaboo’s post really focuses on the price difference after negotiation. What’s more, it’s based on the initial rates shown on Booking. That kind of platform is a middleman whose goal is to take a cut, so the prices are somewhat skewed (nothing to do with the quality-to-price ratio of the service).

As you said, it would’ve been enough to sum it up by saying that the prices listed on Booking are negotiable when dealing directly with the provider.

New addresses are definitely interesting, of course. As long as you talk about the quality of the welcome without drowning it in the details of negotiating prices for 50 places.

If Mrtaboo’s post "is totally in the spirit of a forum where we share good addresses," one of the principles of a forum is also being able to react to posts.

I dream of the day when on Booking we can also rate travelers. 😉

I think that’s the case on Airbnb... There’s also the option to respond to bad reviews and defend yourself...

It can’t be that simple... I’d be really uncomfortable if hostel owners reported me when I wet the bed... After that, no one would want to rent me a room anymore... 🤪

Already wet the bed 😅

Don’t worry, we can reply to a customer’s comment, but we can’t post one ourselves.

You’re saved now! !

I’m not talking about those who constantly describe their misfortunes with their clients... bordering on indirect advertising.

Moralizers are rampant on every forum! Keep saying what you want—people who aren’t interested don’t have to read. Your title was clear.

Keep it up!

So, I’m taking that sentence for myself—who’s the biggest moralizer now? “Constantly”? It’s true that it’s a lot—my 38 posts since 2011. And they’re not all complaints, either. There are plenty of complaints about accommodations on this forum, so why not the other way around? You’re not being very fair. Especially about advertising in the other direction! Do you really think that the few times I’ve posted here—aside from during COVID, when it was cool to share, with humor, dark or not—were to indirectly promote myself? I’ve never advertised, ever. For one thing, I don’t need to, and for another, when I rant, it’s just to rant, and it’s not exactly going to make people want to come to my place. And that’s fine by me.😉 I’m going to write to the moderation team right away to have them delete my 38 posts and erase my account. No need for this energy.

The moralizers are out in force on every forum!

So I’m taking that line for myself—who’s the biggest moralizer now? .

No, I don’t think it’s specifically about you.

I dream of the day when Booking will let us rate travelers too. 😉

I think it's already the case on Airbnb... There's also the option to respond to bad reviews and defend yourself...

It can't be easy... I'd feel really uncomfortable if hostel owners reported me for wetting the bed... After that, no one would want to rent me a room anymore... 🤪

Yeah, it’s true—it’s the case on Airbnb. And for the few slightly wacky reviews I get, I respond. Because some of them are *gold*. No need to go into the details here—some rants make me laugh, others annoy me. There are places for hosts where we can vent among ourselves, no judgment. As for wetting the bed, it’s no big deal—it’s an accident, no malice in it. I once had a 3-year-old who pooped in my living room every morning. I took it well—she was 3. I laughed it off and told her parents it was better her than them. You know, before the internet and the era of the "king customer" or "king traveler," there were already restaurants and hostels. Simple as that—if the service and food were good, people came back. Nowadays, reviews just fly over my head like shooting stars, destined to get lost in the black holes of oblivion. Wishing you all the best.

Hi,

"Wow, I still think all this is pretty expensive. (I’m talking about hotels.) You often say, ‘No negotiation possible’—don’t you think I could get the prices down if I push a little?"

Am I the only one who found that funny?

There are "travel-posters" who try every trick in the book to get a round-trip on the cheap, at the expense of locals who often rely on that income to live.

The myths say everyone should "negotiate" prices. In the internet age, don’t treat locals like they’re clueless! They’re just as smart as you are.

As a general rule, this kind of person (the desperate ones) travels with Quechua bags. 😎

By the way, for those infamous Quechua tourist-trap bags, I’ve got a tip! I bought one to take to the Middle East this summer in a country somewhere between here and there, and by scraping with your thumb, you can remove the Quechua logo! Pure bliss!! 😎

There are "travel-posters" who try by all means to get a round-trip on the cheap, at the expense of locals, who often rely on this to make a living.

Some messages shouldn’t always be taken at face value either. ;)

There are "travel-posters" who try by all means to do an RT on the cheap,

What’s an RT? A road trip? Avoid abbreviations, please.

There are "travel-posters" who try by all means to do an RT on the cheap,

What’s an RT? A road trip? Avoid abbreviations, please.

Are you a site moderator?

Sharing and feedback... that's what the forum is for. I love this goldmine of info, it's awesome! Thanks Rrtaboo ;)

Interesting rundown on hotels and transport.

I was actually wondering about this. With the shared taxis—even if you don’t pay the driver directly—do they try to charge foreigners more, or is it the same price for everyone?

I’m also planning to spend 3 months there this winter, from December to March.

Thanks for this detailed feedback—it’s getting harder to find info for budget travelers, so I find this really useful. I guess as the average age of forum users goes up, budgets have grown too.

There are two types of grand taxis:

Shared grand taxis. They leave from a set location and follow a fixed route. There’s an official price for the trip—no negotiating (you can get off anywhere along the route, but the price stays the same, and you can also flag one down mid-route if there’s space). They only leave when full. If you want to leave faster or have more comfort, you can pay for multiple seats. I’ve never seen a scam—it’s easy to ask other passengers for the price.

Private grand taxis: you negotiate the route and price. The advantage is you can arrange stops as you like. For example, in Tangier last summer, I paid 400 MAD for half a day to explore the area. The price is for the whole car (up to 6 people), with as many stops as you want, a French-speaking driver, and no scams like carpet-shop visits. For multi-day trips outside big cities, renting a car is way cheaper than private grand taxis.