Trek in Nepal's Far West: Between Mountains and Yarsagumba Harvesting

Namaste everyone,

We went to Nepal last October and literally fell in love with this country (like so many others, it seems). During our trek, we had the chance to meet and travel with an incredible independent local guide, Apsara Luitel. She told us about a unique project she’s organizing starting mid-May, and we wanted to share it in case it interests anyone. We mentioned it on another travel forum, but just in case, we’re posting it here too to reach as many people as possible.

Apsara, who knows the Api mountain valley (a name as joyful as it is intriguing!) in Nepal’s Far West (on the border between India and Tibet, at the edge of the world) perfectly, is offering an off-the-beaten-path trek for a group of 3 to 8 people max. The program? An authentic and preserved itinerary combining homestays and small mountain lodges, all the way to the Api base camp. Once at base camp, locals will guide us to secret spots only they know, where we’ll harvest yarsagumba (those famous caterpillar-fungi, rare and prized for their medicinal properties in traditional Chinese medicine—they were going for $20,000 per kilo last year!).

Mid-May is the ideal time to discover this almost unexplored region and take part in harvesting these natural treasures. This kind of adventure, led by an inspiring young woman like Apsara, is rare, and we think it could appeal to Nepal lovers and those who enjoy authentic treks far from the usual tourist routes.

No matter how many participants there are (between 3 and 8), there will always be two guides: Apsara, who speaks English (and is learning French!), and a French-speaking guide. The dates are flexible around May 15th, depending on the availability of those who’d like to take on the adventure.

Hello, The Api and the Saipal... I still have the map (probably completely wrong) from the 70s/80s! One of the few regions of Nepal I’ve never visited. Back then, I opted for the far northeast: the Kangchenjunga. Over there, it’s more humid with more jungle starting from the lowlands (Ilam). The Api is really tempting! Too bad I’m heading to another part of the world at this time, and also, if the group is mostly young, I’m afraid I’d be lagging behind... Just so you know, you can also find yarsagumba in Dolpo. 😉 If the harvest ends up in your pocket, your trip is paid for... if you resell it in Hong Kong. But I think we should leave these mushrooms to the locals—they have so little income.

The map is a collector's item—it's kept carefully . Feel free to share it out of curiosity; those old maps are historical treasures. Otherwise, more recently (June 2024), a new map was published, and it's quite precise, contrasting sharply with the older maps that were already about ten years old. Some of the trails marked are ambitious, though—even locals don’t take them because they’re too dangerous. The region is wild and hard to access.

For the east, Kanchenjunga at this time of year must have been extraordinary, though the region remains just as wonderful (aside from the current curfews making it difficult to access and tense...).

The atmosphere in the Api region is unique because few people venture there. Those who dare to go west often head to Simikot and the Saipal area, while Darchula is often overlooked. That’s understandable—between the long journey and unclear info on hiking trails and border issues (Kalapani-Limpiyadhura). Yarsagumba can also be found in Dolpo, Mugu, and plenty of other beautiful, remote, high-altitude areas of the Himalayas. It’s no easy feat to find them, haha :)

I’m Apsara’s husband and the French-speaking guide for the project. For now, aside from Pascaline and Jérémy, we have two other very interested people, and the average age is around 30. But age is a matter of philosophy and spirit :) The goal is to take our time on this adventure, which is so far from everything. As long as the physical condition is there, there’s no problem. I agree with you about the harvesting—the aim is to discover the collection process, participate, and share that moment with the locals. But if we find any, we advise giving them to the locals; they’ll make much better use of them than we would.

The map is a collector's item—keep it safe 😊. Feel free to share it out of curiosity; these old maps are historical treasures

I’ve got a whole series from the years '74 to '91 in varying conditions: Jumla to Api and Saipal Himal. Dolpo. Jumla to Jomosom. Manaslu. Kangchenjunga. I kept the "Annapurna Circuit" for years as a souvenir! Though these aren’t collector’s items, Mandala trekking maps were another story. These black-and-white printed maps were pretty imprecise—often outright wrong—and when you touched them, the village names would smudge right off! You had to handle them with extreme care!

For the east, Kanchenjunga at that time must have been extraordinary, though the region remains just as stunning (aside from the current curfews making it hard to access and tense...).

Back in ’77 or ’78, there were two of us buddies... To get a trekking permit, the rules changed every year. First, you had to go to the tourism office to ask around. I remember asking, "Is it possible to go to Kangchenjunga Base Camp?" One employee replied, "We don’t know because nobody goes there!" 😏 At the time, exchanging money on the black market for rupees was common. We’d exchanged almost all our cash "under the table." Bad luck struck at immigration when we applied for the permit—they demanded the bank receipt! Which, of course, we couldn’t provide. So we ended up trekking without a permit! We had to avoid checkpoints... Eventually, we got caught, and we showed our passports as permits. The officer clearly didn’t know what a permit looked like and scribbled a whole paragraph in Nepali on the first page of my passport—right under my photo—making it unusable! After the trek, near Ilam (following locals’ advice), we crossed the Nepal/India border at a checkpoint closed to foreigners... They let us through but didn’t stamp our passports. We finally sorted things out in Darjeeling. What an adventure! The real deal.

I don’t recommend anyone reading this try trekking without a permit—it wouldn’t fly today, especially since guides are (supposedly) mandatory for treks, even the classic ones. Do you know if this rule is actually enforced?

I’m Apsara’s husband and the French-speaking guide for the project. So far, besides Pascaline and Jérémy, we’ve got two other very interested people, and the average age is around 30. But age is just a state of mind! :)

Maybe, but even though I hike in the mountains once or twice a week (with over 1000m elevation gain), I still struggle sometimes... With 10 or 15 fewer years, I’d have jumped at the chance for Saipal! Happy trekking in Nepal’s Far West!

For me, it's a real collector's item because you can't find these maps or the Mandala trekking map editions anymore. I love the anecdote about the text fading just as much. Precious memories and an amazing experience 🙂

You know, today I make a lot of Nepalis laugh when we talk about their country—they're surprised I know it better than they do. Beyond traveling within their own country, their geographical knowledge is limited. Many struggle to locate Kathmandu on a map if there aren’t any legends.

I hope you managed to keep your passport from that time—the story is wild. The adventure, as you say, real exploration. Reading your post gives me a smile and stars in my eyes.

For treks, there are restricted zones that require a guide (even for spouses of Nepalis, though with a group of Nepali married couples, we try to fight for more rights for those like me who live in Nepal). However, some restricted zones, like certain parts of Rolwaling, can still be done without a guide. For other, more classic zones, this rule hasn’t been implemented except in Shivapuri National Park—and even there, beyond requiring a guide, they ask that you be accompanied by an adult Nepali. Langtang is trying to enforce mandatory guides, but for now, that’s not the case. It’s hard for tourists to keep up if they’re not regularly following the changes. If you’re heading to the Sagarmatha or Annapurna zones (outside Nar-Phu and Upper Mustang), there’s still no issue with being independent.

Keep enjoying the mountains, even if it means you can’t go as high in altitude anymore—there are still so many beautiful things to explore at any pace :)

For treks, there are restricted areas that absolutely require a guide (even for spouses of Nepalis, even though with a group of people married to Nepalis we try to fight for more rights for those like me who live in Nepal). However, some restricted areas like certain parts of Rolwaling can still be done without a guide.

Yes, I’m well aware that restricted areas have always existed... I actually had to wait until the 90s to go to Upper Dolpo, which wasn’t open to foreigners before 1992, I think. A guide was mandatory, and the permit was pretty expensive! And more recently, between 2010 and 2016, I went to the Tsum Valley, then continued with the Manaslu Circuit. My most recent trek was Upper Mustang in a small group. Again, with a guide and paying $600 for a 12-day permit! All my other treks (a good ten of them), like Ganesh Himal, Langtang/Ganja La, and the Everest Three Passes, I did completely independently without a guide or porters.

Hello, Could I learn more about this trek? Thanks in advance! ☺️

Of course! What details would you like to know? We’re relaunching the project next May. The idea is to combine the discovery of a remote trekking area that few dare to explore because it’s off the traditional beaten paths. We experience local life by staying in homestays whenever possible and spend several days at base camp to learn about the yarsagumba harvest with the locals. It’s an experience that doesn’t present any particular difficulties, but you need to be aware that this is a remote region and the comfort found in other areas (Sagarmatha, Annapurna, Langtang) doesn’t exist here. This is raw, traditional Nepal. Some parts of the trail are very steep or prone to landslides, so you should be used to mountain hiking. The scenery is extraordinary, with views of Api Himal (7132m), vast pastures at its base, and two stunning lakes. If you’d like more info, feel free to message me—I’ll share the full program! 😊

Thanks for your feedback. I was maybe thinking of coming in August 2025. But I’ll keep the idea in mind. Feel free to send me the program, I’d love that! 😊

For August, it's quite challenging. For us anyway, we won't be available (my wife and I are trekking elsewhere until mid-September), but beyond just us, with the monsoon and the region's accessibility, it can be really difficult both to reach the trek's starting point and to leave. Some areas are highly exposed to landslides, including a huge zone after the village of Siti. Also, as you go up the valley, there are several rivers without bridges, and the water flow is truly massive due to the season. I'd advise those without a guide (someone with real experience in the area, not just any guide) and who aren't used to hiking in the rainy season in the high hills/lower mountains (2000-4500m) of the Himalayas to postpone exploring this region for safety reasons. September becomes more feasible with reduced river flow, but it remains unpredictable depending on rainfall. For example, in 2024, early to mid-September was doable, while late September was impossible due to several floods in Sudurpaschim Province. On the other hand, starting in September, the yarsagumba harvest is nearly over or already finished depending on conditions. All this to say, you're free to go whenever you want, but if you do it in August-September, it's recommended to have a local guide, and if you go later (from October), there are fewer risks but less yarsagumba to collect before April/May 😊

If there's one month to avoid in Nepal, it's definitely August! (July too.) Exception: Upper Mustang, but since you have to take a plane or bus on flooded and partially collapsed roads to get there, it’s also a problem...

For good weather—or at least clearer skies—some regions are definitely better protected from rain, like Upper Mustang and Upper Dolpo. But other areas are just as stunning to visit if you love lush greenery and meadows covered in wildflowers, whether in Kori or Dhorpatan. In July, you’ve got to be extra careful, and in August, stay vigilant, but there are still some amazing places to explore. Plus, the road quality to reach Upper Mustang has improved a lot in recent years, though some sections remain risky and affected by landslides. Navigating the world’s deepest valley/gorge isn’t exactly a walk in the park! 😅

Ultimately, during July and August, you should keep an eye on weather forecasts, head toward regions less affected by the monsoon (though this year, very few places are truly spared...), and stay flexible—because even with forecasts, the weather always has a few surprises in store.

In the end, during July and August, you’ve got to keep an eye on the weather forecasts, head for regions less affected by the monsoon (this year, very few places are truly spared...) and stay flexible because even though forecasts exist, the weather always has surprises in store.

Yeah, it’s still doable, but it’s pretty rainy... True, it doesn’t bother the pilgrims who, for example, head to the sacred lakes of Gosainkunda in Langtang during the August full moon.

It's clear that the Nepalis don't care as long as they can reach a sacred lake for Janai Purnima. Badimalika is just as crazy as Gosainkunda at this time of year. Last year, 4,000 people made it to the waters of Gosainkunda... Crazy when you know the path to the lake. The fervor of the festivals is always amazing to experience—timeless—but you still need to be careful, especially during the monsoon! 😅

Hi everyone,

Thanks so much for your feedback. I’ll postpone my trip to another time 😊

Hi Terry, Since you're a guide, could you clearly tell me if I might run into any issues at the checkpoints even with the Upper Dolpo permit? I’ll be starting in October from Kagbeni up to Mugu via the high route. Just to clarify, I’ll have the Upper Dolpo permit with me but no guide! Where exactly are the checkpoints? Chharka Bhot... Bijher... Pho?

Thanks in advance

My wife is a guide, but I’m not—and I never will be legally unless Nepal changes its laws. Trekking or tourist guides in Nepal must pass local exams and, most importantly, be Nepali citizens. I’m just a simple French guy, haha. Even though I’m married to a Nepali woman, I have almost the same recognition as a tourist in Nepal 😄

Anyway, to answer the specific question about permits: only Nepalis can access "Restricted Areas" on their own without a permit and thus without a guide. This includes Upper Mustang and Dolpo (Upper & Lower). Beyond the regular checkpoints, if the army sees you (and they will, since they’re very present in the region), you’ll run into trouble for breaking the law. There’s some tolerance for Lower Dolpo if you’re coming from Dhorpatan, but I haven’t heard of any clients or travelers attempting Upper Dolpo. Of course, I don’t recommend it—even if the rules are restrictive (and I deal with them daily living here), we have to respect them. That said, everyone’s free to do as they please ☺️

However, also consider the risks you’re imposing on the agency that issued your Upper Dolpo permit. Restricted permits are issued by immigration through an official trekking agency, meaning the agency could face serious problems if you’re caught (by military who won’t tolerate seeing you alone in the zone). If there’s a conflict between you and the agency, they’ll protect themselves and could justify it by saying you abandoned your guide and left alone. In short, it’s at your own risk if you go there without a guide, and if you do, I can only recommend avoiding traditional routes where you’re sure to encounter the army. Also keep in mind the risk you’re putting on the agency that issued your permit—they could lose their license or face legal action.

Regarding checkpoints, remember it’s not like national parks or conservation areas, where there are just fixed checkposts and almost no chance of being checked elsewhere. In restricted areas, there are checkposts *and* police and military who *will* stop you if they see you, no matter where you are—especially if you’re alone. Speaking Nepali might help, but otherwise, it’ll be even more complicated.

Hope this helps, and enjoy your stay in Nepal ☺️

There was a time when, in addition to the mandatory official agency or guide, you had to be at least 2 people (plus a guide, of course) to obtain the "restricted area" permit. Is this still the case? I’m pretty surprised that an agency would apply for a permit for a client at immigration and then let them go alone... even if they’re paid by the client for the permit.

It's officially still the case, but you can simply pay for someone else's (ghost) permit and do the trek alone with your guide. The technique is called the "ghost permit" by many regulars. If the army/police are surprised and ask questions at the entrance to the "Restricted Area," many explain that the other permit holder got injured or fell ill, justifying coming alone with the guide—but since they’d already paid, they weren’t going to cancel. The army/police let it slide because, let’s be honest, the two-person requirement isn’t useful or relevant.

But I share your surprise about the agency—it’s risky and irresponsible on their part, regardless of the hiker’s expertise/experience. They’re taking risks with the Nepali government and potentially Chinese/Indian authorities, depending on where the person ventures (I’m talking about all Restricted Areas, not just those in Dolpo). That said, while there are rules, everyone’s free to make their own choices and take responsibility for them 😄

Yeah, it was already like that: the "ghost permit," but you really do have to pay for 2 permits. It wasn’t cheap even 10 years ago: 600 € (or dollars) per person for just 10 days (for Upper Mustang or Upper Dolpo) and 50 € per extra day. So if you're alone, you have to pay double just to get the permit...

Hello, It's a really beautiful region, and great idea to trek in western Nepal, which still feels authentic. I don’t quite get how one goes about collecting those famous yarsagumba, though. Could you kindly shed a little more light on this project for us? Thanks, and have a great day! Adventure !!!

Thanks for the feedback

Hi there, Yarsagumba is a very special little champion that parasitizes a caterpillar. It grows on the caterpillar’s head. When you harvest it in the wild, you’re actually collecting the caterpillar along with the fungus. You can find it around 4,000m in certain areas of western Nepal like Dolpo and Mugu, as well as in Tibet. It’s said to have aphrodisiac properties and even stronger performance-enhancing effects than amphetamines (and supposedly undetectable in blood tests). It sells for a fortune, especially in China. Maybe the Chinese athletes used it in the last Olympics? 😏

Thanks a lot, Djalma, for your reply, but the Yarshagumba region is reserved only for locals from the same district (region/province), so we can’t take just anyone there to collect them. A few years ago, people from the Gorkha district were killed in clashes when they went to the Narphu region (another district). Plus, without a permit from the local government, I don’t think we can do these activities anymore. Adventure!!!

It depends on the location—harvesting sites manage their processes differently. In Nar Phu, only locals are allowed to go, with strict controls on harvests and fixed prices. Other regions are much more flexible, like Darchula, Saipal, and Dhorpatan/Rukum. The goal isn’t to spend four months digging through the earth—it’s just to experience the activity over a few days. The aim isn’t to keep the precious harvest for ourselves but to give it to the locals who welcome us. Specifically for Darchula, we’ve befriended several locals who allow us to run this kind of program—I don’t think they’d accept just anyone, which is why we offer it there. While we get along very well with the locals in the Nar and Phu valleys, such a program isn’t feasible there at the moment. With your extensive experience in the field, Mr. Khakurel, I’m sure you know that depending on the region and mountain ranges, some things are more or less possible with locals and the local committees regulating activities and tourism. For such custom and unique programs, you often have to venture far from traditional routes 😊

Thanks a lot, Djalma, for your reply, but the Yarshagumba area is reserved only for locals from the same district (region/province), so we can’t take just anyone there to gather them. A few years ago, people from the Gorkha district were killed in clashes when they went to the Narphu region (another district). Plus, without a permit from the local government, I don’t think these activities are allowed anymore. Adventure!!!

Namaste, Taking Europeans there and promoting these practices is completely disrespectful and irresponsible. Locals no longer work their lands, villages are emptying, and very few people manage to live off these harvests. Tashidelek, Gilles

Namaste Taking Europeans along and promoting these practices is completely disrespectful and irresponsible. Locals no longer work their lands, villages are emptying, and very few people manage to live off these harvests. Tashidelek Gilles

Making such generalizations is risky and doesn’t reflect reality, which varies greatly from one region to another. While thousands of Nepalis leave every day to work abroad, considering it "abnormal" for some to spend two to four months harvesting yarsagumba in the mountains seems like a judgment disconnected from reality. This activity often fits into a seasonal logic: livestock in the highlands, crops (on hold or waiting for the monsoon), tourism (during the monsoon)... Many families divide their time and homes according to the seasons. A good number of Nepalis living in the highlands have multiple homes based on their activities: one at lower altitudes from Kartik to Phalgun and another in the highlands for the rest of the year. I invite you to visit the Nar Phu or Rukum regions, or even the Tsum Valley in January, to see the empty villages—it’s normal.

Saying that "locals no longer work their lands" is an oversimplification that doesn’t match what we observe on the ground. Many people supplement their income with yarsagumba, and if it weren’t economically worthwhile, no one would spend several weeks in the highlands. Nepalis are hardworking but not foolish. Who could believe that locals abandon their land for 8 to 10 months a year just to harvest yarsagumba?

I don’t know where this idea comes from, but before making such claims, it would be better to ask local communities rather than spreading misinformation. Residents of Darchula, Mugu, Dolpo, Rukum, or Manang could tell you about it directly.

Finally, our approach isn’t to "promote" the harvest but to share an experience of local life. We don’t come to replace locals in their activities or encourage Europeans to spend four months in Nepal harvesting yarsagumba. Instead, we aim to understand a facet of Nepali life, their daily routines, while respecting the people and their choices and supporting the local economy.

Terry

Your message suggests you might not know Nepal very well.