Sumatra Questions: Domestic Flights and Route Direction (page 1 of 3)

Hi there, After visiting southern Sumatra in 2020 (Padang area, Bukkitinggi, Lake Maninjau), we’re heading north in two weeks to explore. We’ll arrive in Medan after Singapore. Then we plan to go to Bukit Lawang, Berastagi, and Lake Toba before finishing up on Pulau Weh. Yeah, I know three weeks is short, but we like taking our time now that we’re in our fifties 😄. My questions: - Which direction should we do the loop: Medan → Bukit Lawang → Lake Toba → Medan (we’ll be traveling by taxi)? - Can I buy the Medan/Banda Aceh flights just 10 days in advance while we’re there? Any airline to prefer? Thanks in advance to anyone familiar with this part of the world 😊

Hi there!

This brings back old memories! I went to Berastagi (a volcano in the area) from Medan... I don’t know Bukit Lawang (a tourist trap?). After that, Lake Toba, Samosir Island, then all the way south to Sibolga... It was so long! Then I took a boat to Nias Island. You should go—it was amazing! The houses were a bit like those of the Toraja people in Sulawesi... I won’t be much help with the route! Things must have changed a lot—we did everything by local bus...

Yes, I know three weeks is short, but we like to take our time now that we’re in our fifties.

Banda Aceh

Do people speak highly of that area? Maybe with the new roads and taxis, getting around is easier and faster—otherwise, there’s not really time to dawdle 😉 PS: If you go to Bukit Lawang first, then Berastagi, doesn’t that make a big detour to Lake Toba?

Hi Christelle,

Here’s how I did it

Okay, the news isn’t exactly fresh anymore...

But when it comes to the route direction, it’s timeless!

Isn’t sharia law in place on Pulau Weh?

As we meet again, Jean Michel 😂. So, Bukit Lawang might be a tourist trap, but we’ll be there off-season, and my goal is to spot some primates at sunrise by the river 😊. Plus, the forest there is stunning. We’ll just pass through Banda Aceh, and Pulau Weh Island has everything we love. Berastagi and Toba are also on the same route. Bukit is a bit out of the way, but not *too* much. Have a great evening

Oh, so I’m following in your footsteps, Agnès! 😄 Thanks for the link.

I’m laughing re-reading about the era of our trips before Booking.com and all that, when we’d do door-to-door planning. Now I’ve picked everything from my couch 😂 (but still haven’t booked anything—I need to get on that). 16 years later, accommodations have really upped their game: I found several "paradises" for 50 € a night!

For Pulau Weh, no worries if you’re not wandering around in a thong 😆. My Indian outfits will do just fine: T-shirt and knee-length shorts. I’ve read everywhere that you can swim in a bikini without any issues, but if anyone’s found otherwise, I’d love to hear about it!

I think Booking already existed back then, but not so much in the middle of nowhere! 😉

Sharia isn’t really my thing in general, and definitely not for a beach holiday.🤪

(A sunset by the sea just isn’t the same without drinks...)

No worries, Agnès. Remember, we’re from Landes—we always find a solution for apéro 😄. In this case, just head to a dive center and drink it from a tea cup. Strangely, tourism makes religion blind in some places 😵. Reminds me of Pushkar, where they brought us a big can of beer wrapped entirely in aluminum—super discreet 🤫.

Hi Christelle, The feedback I’ve gotten about the Banda Aceh region hasn’t really made me want to go. I agree with Attila on this. If Pulau Weh has the same vibe, I’d avoid it if possible—you can have a great time on Nias Island instead, where the mostly animist population (like around Lake Toba and the Toraja in Sulawesi) is especially welcoming and tolerant. I’m actually surprised this island doesn’t attract more travelers.

We haven’t decided anything yet, Jean Michel, but we’re arriving and leaving from Medan, and it seems easier to get to Pulau Weh than to Nias. And if we’re not into surfing, we love snorkelling. I don’t know if that’s possible in Nias. I’ve read several traveler reviews, and everyone comes back enchanted from Pulau Weh: lush forest, paradise beaches, and easy scooter rental, which matters a lot to us. Some stayed in Banda Aceh and didn’t say anything terrible about it. But it’s true you have to be respectful, and it’s far from the Saint-Tropez vibe 😄. I’ll keep researching since no one here seems to have been there 😅. See you soon

I don’t want to influence you (just sharing info), but Nias has lots of snorkeling spots, including Ture Loto Beach in the north of the island. That’s where I went, but I saw there were plenty of others. Since my visit, things may have deteriorated, but that’s the case everywhere. In Nias, there’s so much to see and plenty of walks to do—bike rentals, etc. The island is huge...

Hi Christelle, I’d recommend starting with Lake Toba because, on one hand, it avoids going through Medan (Indonesia’s 4th largest city), and on the other, there’s a highway from the airport all the way to Pematang Siantar. After that, the roads are smooth until Parapat, where you’ll take the ferry. Allow about 3h30 for the drive. The roads are good, which isn’t the case between Binjai and Bukit Lawang—they’re wrecked by trucks transporting fruit for palm oil.

Thanks Eric. Perfect timing—it’s exactly what I’ve decided since my last message 😄. After Lake Toba, we might stop in Berastagi. My plan is to head to Bukit Lawang via Namoukour. Google Maps says it’s doable, but I trust you way more than it 😉. What do you think?

The best route to get to Bukit Lawang from Berastagi is the one that passes by the Sinabung volcano on the right—you’ll go past a few ghost villages along the way. Local drivers know this route well.

Perfect Eric, I think that’s the one 😄😍

It's a beautiful route. Few trucks. Lovely landscapes. How long are you staying in Bukit Lawang?

I don’t know yet—it’ll depend on whether we fall in love with Lake Toba or not 😊

Hello, did you end up taking your trip, and if so, could you share your itinerary with me, please? Thanks in advance. Philippe

Hi Philippe, Thanks for taking me back to my memories 😊. Yes, we went to Sumatra as planned in March/April 2025, with stops at Lake Toba (4 nights), Berastagi (1 night), Bukit Lawang (3 nights), Pulau Weh (6 nights), and Singapore before and after. What would you like to know?

Hi there Was Pulau Weh good?

Haha, I was waiting for your question, Djalma! 😜

We spent 7 days in the area renting a scooter and found some top-notch accommodations for all budgets a dream snorkeling spot some stunning beaches where you’re not bothered by neighbors 😊 and a little emotion during the visit to the Banda Aceh mosque that looked like this after the tsunami 😢



And Sharia law, you might ask? Well, as a tourist, you don’t even notice it. In Banda Aceh, the welcome was like this

and the image I keep of the place is this one

Everywhere, women ride scooters, work, and live their lives without a guy glued to their sneakers. I certainly wouldn’t want to be in their shoes because the rules they have to follow are probably numerous, but Indonesian Sharia law has nothing to do with Afghanistan’s. On the other hand, it’s the perfect remedy for mass tourism 😄. Apart from a few expats who really know what’s going on, we didn’t come across a single tourist, which is becoming rare on a dream island. But I really only recommend this destination to tolerant travelers who are ready to leave their preconceptions at home. I think you’d be a great candidate! 😉 Interested?