Your thoughts on a trip to Croatia

Hi there, We were planning to spend a month in June exploring Croatia (Istria for 1 week, Plitvice Park, Zadar, Split, the islands, Dubrovnik…) and Montenegro, and we’ve already made good progress on our plans. But after reading the forum, we got a bit worried—there are so many negative reviews. Apparently, tourism has exploded, and Croatians are getting more and more fed up (which we totally get), becoming aggressive and disrespectful. The euro has sent prices skyrocketing, and scams of all kinds are popping up—even car vandalism is being mentioned!!

Here’s what we had in mind: Day 1: Our trip was supposed to start from Nice by car, with a stop in Verona to arrive in Croatia the next day. Days 2–6: First possible detour to visit Postojna Cave in Slovenia (or later from Rijeka... but I’ve heard border crossings can be super long!!!) and a 5-night stay in Rovinj (visiting Rovinj, Bale, Poreč, Grožnjan, and other small villages, Pula, maybe Cape Kamenjak, relaxing on beaches, possibly Cres Island). - Days 7–8: Head toward Rijeka and Plitvice Lakes National Park via the coastal road; 2 nights outside the park (given the prices!!!) and visit the park the next day. Do we need to book park entry way in advance for June? - Days 9–11 or 12: Leave for Zadar for 4 nights—one island (Dugi Otok, Pašman Island, Kornati Islands National Park, Silba, Molat, Olib, Premuda, Sakarun Bay, Veli Žal Beach, Iž Island, Ugljan Island), explore the city, and check out the surroundings. - Days 13–15: Head to Split, visit Šibenik, Split, and Trogir. - Days 16–17: Hvar Island. - Days 18–21 or 22: Head to Dubrovnik, explore the city, cross over to Korčula, Prapatno port at the start of the Pelješac Peninsula, via Ston, Mljet Island (Konavle and Cavtat port?).

- Then return to Split to catch the ferry to Ancona or head to Montenegro for 5–7 days.

If you’ve visited Croatia since 2023 (when it joined the Schengen Zone), we’d love to hear your thoughts on traveling there in June. Françoise

I went back to Croatia most recently in 2023. Entering the Schengen Zone has really simplified crossing between Slovenia and Croatia and vice versa.

After 3 stays in Croatia over the last 8 years, I absolutely don’t share these negative opinions. Overtourism affects many regions, and the Croatian coast is far from the only one. But since there are plenty of islands, many are much quieter. That said, the most well-known spots are packed, so you have to adapt. For example, in Rovinj, a walk from 7 AM to 10 AM will give you a much less crowded town. The same goes for Plitvice, which is unbearable from 1 PM to 3 PM in the middle of summer (I don’t know about June). It’s also true that it’s no longer a ‘budget’ destination overall.

My thoughts on your itinerary (which still makes me dream—I won’t be in Europe this year):

The town of Piran (Slovenian coast) is worth a one-night stop. Trieste can be visited fairly quickly, even if it’s not a must. Postojna isn’t very convenient for Istria; the Škocjan Caves are closer to your route (with or without a stop in Piran).

On your loop of hilltop villages (Grožnjan, Motovun, etc.), the detour to Poreč is worth it if you couldn’t stop on your way down to Rovinj. The old center is nice, and the basilica visit (a UNESCO site) is worthwhile. The Pula Amphitheatre is best visited at dusk—the crowds will have headed into town to party, and the light will be beautiful. On the way to Rijeka, Labin has a pretty little center. If you want to visit Cres or Lošinj, you’d really need to reorganize the itinerary to stay 2 nights (or at least one) and leave via the island of Krk instead of backtracking through Istria. The road to Cres is spectacular, and Veli Lošinj is a charming little port, but it takes time to get there.

I don’t know when you need to book for Plitvice. Early to mid-June won’t be peak season yet, but you never know. It’d be wise to book as soon as you’ve finalized your accommodations, I think. The last time we went, we visited the park from opening until around 2:30–3 PM, then drove south to sleep at our next stop near Šibenik. If I were to do it again, I’d do the same. Aside from Plitvice, there isn’t much to do in that area, except Rastoke a bit to the east.

You’ve listed a bunch of sites around Zadar, but I still think 4 nights is a lot for that part of Dalmatia, even with a day trip to the Kornati Islands. That said, it might just be my impression of Zadar coloring my view of the surroundings. Despite its few interesting attractions, the city is the least beautiful on the coast. I’d take one night from Zadar and add it to Split.

For the final Hvar/Dubrovnik stretch, I think you’ll have to make choices, especially if you’re considering continuing to Montenegro. After seeing the whole coast, one more island or city won’t make a huge difference (except Dubrovnik). To include Pelješac, the easiest option would be to skip Hvar and go from Split directly to Vela Luka (Korčula Island), stay 2–3 nights on the island, then cross to Pelješac and head down to Ston.

Happy planning!!

Hi

We were in Croatia in April 2023. We didn’t run into any safety issues, and the Croatians were really friendly. I could imagine it might be different in July-August with all the tourists, but when you’re nice to people, they usually are too.

On the way there and back, we went through Slovenia and visited Piran on the way—it’s gorgeous—and the Postojna Caves, which are stunning, Predjama Castle, and the Škocjan Caves on the way back. Both caves are beautiful and very different, but Postojna is absolutely amazing despite being very touristy. Our guide was great and gave us time to take photos. We didn’t have any issues at the border between Croatia and Slovenia or Slovenia and Croatia—the crossing was really quick.

Like you, we stopped in Verona on the way. It’s a really pretty city. On the way back, we stayed for two nights at Lake Garda and did a loop around the lake. The area is also stunning but very touristy.

Good evening, Thanks so much for your reply and the info. I’m thinking—and hoping—that there’ll be fewer tourists in June!!! In the end, we’ll head to the Škocjan Caves on the way out, stopping in Padua instead of Verona... because on the way back, we’re taking the boat from Split to Ancona to save a few kilometers. Franoise

Don’t skip Krka National Park!