From Essaouira to Sidi Ifni: What to see and do off the tourist trail?

Hi everyone, I know there are some *reaaaal* Morocco experts here, so I’m giving it a shot. Early June, we’re heading back to the country for the third time for a little week-long trip. We’ll arrive and depart from Essaouira, where we’ll rent a car to drive south down to roughly Sidi Ifni. The plan is to make short stops of 2-3 hours max, a mix of coastal spots and a bit inland. We’re looking for natural, quiet places that feel untouched. We loved Taghazout years ago and Larache two years back—just to give you an idea of our vibe. What spots would you recommend along this route? I’m tempted by Paradise Valley but worried it’ll be as crowded as Agadir. What do you think? Any other valleys in the area worth the detour? Thanks, and have a great weekend! 😊

Hi,

No doubt about it: Tifnit! (Not TiZnit, but TiFnit). It’s a tiny fishing village south of Agadir (about 1 hour away). To really enjoy it: wander through the village via its maze of narrow pedestrian alleys. Stroll along the beach to the north of the village. You’ll find a few small grilled-fish "eateries" lined up along the little beachfront buildings. Stunning sea views, and the fish is guaranteed fresh. Though it’s worth the wait—sometimes you have to be patient for the catch :D ...

Otherwise: Legzira is worth a stop, even if only one arch remains and it’s quite busy (with Moroccans). I also enjoyed exploring Mirleft. I liked Sidi Ifni less.

The Sunday souk in Had Draa, 30 km from Essaouira, near Ounagha. A souk "in its own juice"—authentic and unpolished.

Inland, for something more urban and less briny: Taroudant, the "little Marrakech," but nothing like the overhyped tourism of Marrakech (1 hour’s drive from Agadir). But honestly, for a short week, there’s already plenty to do along the coast.

Murielle

Hi there, without a doubt: Tifnit! (not TiZnit, but TiFnit). It’s a tiny fishing village south of Agadir (about 1 hour away).

Hi, That was back in the day... Tifnit, that lovely fishing village, was completely demolished. In southern Morocco, fishing villages wiped off the map

Etc...

Otherwise: Legzira is worth a stop, even if only one arch remains and it’s quite busy (with Moroccans).

In Morocco, they’re actually pretty common... 😎

Aw, thanks so much, Murielle! The Sunday souk you told me about is exactly what we're looking for!! It sounds really off the beaten path 🤩

We know Taroudant (and Tafraoute) a bit and we really liked it too.

Can you tell me why you didn’t like Sidi Ifni as much?

Thanks again! 😘😍

oh no!!! that makes me sad....

😕 🏴‍☠️

About Legzira: Yeah, I agree with you—it makes sense that a Moroccan site would be frequented by Moroccans 😎 But what struck me when I was there (in the middle of summer) was that there were *tons* of Moroccans and very few Europeans.

Well, Tifnit was a short-lived traveler’s dream. Ajft 😢.

It’s awful for those families!!

Christelle, For Tifnit, it was a great idea... before 2023 (read Ajft25’s post above... ).

For Sidi Ifni: I didn’t find anything particularly appealing there—nothing that made me want to go back. Maybe I missed what makes this town interesting, but I preferred Mirleft, for example. Smaller, more typical.

Hi Christelle,

Between Agadir and (the now-defunct) Tifnit, there’s Souss-Massa National Park, a coastal wetland that protects many bird species, including some endemic ones. We had the chance to enjoy an impromptu private guided tour there 25 years ago, led by two friendly Moroccan academics who were there for their research. We loved how peaceful the place was—though it was winter.

Thanks Michel. I spotted this national park, but they do say everywhere that it’s best to visit in winter, so I’m not sure if it’s worth the trip in June

Good evening, Aghroud, the colorful village with all its brightly painted houses and its stunning beach, a few kilometers before Immi Ouaddar. Taghazout is still great, along with the mountainous road above the village. The Immouzer waterfall near Paradise Valley for a lovely walk on foot. The El Had souk in Agadir. Tifnit, where nature has reclaimed its rights, for its beautiful beach. Tiznit for its 5 km of ramparts, its charming medina, its silver jewelry shops, and some great little restaurants. Mirleft for a stop at the Kasbah de l'Artiste right in the village for an excellent meal at Ibrahim’s. Sidi Ifni for its whitewashed houses in blue and white. And finally, about thirty kilometers south of Ifni, Foum Assaka and the Rayon Vert.

Oh, and yes, the Souss Massa Park for its onyx, Dorcas gazelles, and ostriches.

Just to clarify, it was VF that extended my title "what to see and do off the tourist trail," which bothers me a bit since I’m a tourist just like everyone else. I just don’t like crowds. I would’ve said something like "Do you know any quiet, pretty spots?" 😅

Awesome, thanks so much Marie Mathilde, I’ll jot all that down 😊. You really know the area like the back of your hand!

Hi there, If you need more ideas or cool spots in the area, I can definitely help out a bit. For example, head to Ouijjane, 25 km east of Tiznit—there are some great walks to do, including an amazing spring right in the village. Peace and quiet guaranteed.

I made some lovely discoveries in this area during my last trip, especially the Rasmouka Desert—also known as the Little Sahara—and of course the collective granaries. Photos and details in this travel journal: https://forumvoyage.forumactif.com/t4571-quatre-semaines-a-vadrouiller-au-maroc

Another interesting spot we discovered earlier is the tiny port of Immerditsa, near Imsouane. We got the tip from the Les Tajines Bleus hostel, close to Tamanar, between Essaouira and Agadir. A really nice stop. Great food and a warm welcome.

Thanks again to both of you, but now you’ve made it tricky—I’ll have to choose because we’ll never manage to do it all 😉.

And Jean, Immerditsa is so tiny that I can’t find anything anywhere with that name! Maybe there’s a spelling mistake? 😉

You’ve got to stop at Timizguida Ouftas. You can find photos in Danouk’s travel journal.

You’ll need to go via Timizguida Ouftas. You can find photos in Danouk’s travel journal.

Imarditsane

That’s it, thanks. It’s definitely worth seeing if you’re passing through.

Hey hey, thanks to both of you. Couldn’t be more precise now 😊

You also have the Ida Ouarzazate salt flats near Smimou, or the Ida Ougourd souk near Essaouira, which takes place on Wednesdays. I think a week won’t be enough—you’ll have to come back!

"We'll have to come back"

Absolutely, Jean—a week won’t be enough 😊. Thanks again, Christelle

I also had a hard time finding info! Having said that, I hope this review is just an exaggeration! 😐



You have to go via Timizguida Ouftas. You’ll find photos in Danouk’s travel journal.

Imarditsane

From what I’ve heard, Ali, there are also buffalo lurking in ambush and crocodiles that come to nibble your feet when you swim 😄. I reckon the guy lives around there and just wants to be left alone 😬

From what I hear, Ali, there are also buffalo lurking and crocodiles that come to nibble your feet when you swim 😄. I reckon the guy lives around there and just wants to be left alone 😠

All the more reason to go [;]

Another trip? When does the social worker actually work? 😉

Okay, my experience in Morocco—though very recent—won’t help you much, but I’ll read up in the background. Could come in handy for me too... But if you want tips on driving through the pedestrian streets of the Medina, I’m your guy!! 🤪

PS: They’re all right—we’ve got to come back to Morocco! Me first...

It’s because I’ve got two gigs, Bruno: social worker and freelance traveler (except mine isn’t sponsored by France Travail, bummer 😆). And seven little nights isn’t really a trip—just a breather 😌. Otherwise, I *love* the idea of a “guide” who, from day one, takes you where you shouldn’t. You must’ve given your fan club cold sweats 😆

I was interested in your route and took note of the tips. We’re heading to Morocco this winter, so we’ll take the chance to visit Souss-Massa National Park! Is mid-January too cold for this trip? We’ll have time. Thanks for your replies—I’m planning our 6-week itinerary and hoping to alternate between renting a vehicle and using local transport without too much hassle.

Hi Anne,

Perfect timing—I’m just sharing our little road trip here 😊 https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10779351;#10779351

The ideal option is renting a small car. It’ll give you way more freedom and flexibility with your schedule.