3 weeks in Colombia (August 2023)

Why Colombia? It's quite simple. For the past few years, my daughter has been living with a Colombian from Bogotá. The idea was to discover his country, meet his family, and do part of the trip all four of us together. We’re heading out first as scouts, then they’ll join us to continue the journey. The itinerary was shared in another post—now it’s time for the impressions. No photos, as for me, it’s video and nothing more!

Day 1: The big departure What was planned: A flight from Lyon Saint-Exupéry late morning heading to Frankfurt. Two hours of waiting in Frankfurt (just enough time to eat a pretzel!!) and then off to Bogotá for an arrival around 7 PM local time. I hadn’t done the Check-Mig (to be done 72 hours before the flight). I did it on my phone, giving a fake arrival date in Colombia, and the attendant told me there wouldn’t be any issues in Bogotá. Actually, two hours of delay at departure in Lyon because a sick passenger was on the plane—they had to evacuate him, and the ambulance that was supposed to be there didn’t have permission to come near the plane. Ah, French administrative formalities!!!!! Flight to Frankfurt with Lufthansa went smoothly. A sprint through the airport—very well organized. Connection secured, so we boarded the plane, and two hours later than scheduled, we took off for an 11-hour flight! Arrival in Bogotá, and the immigration process took over an hour and a half because of the crowds. However, no issues with the Check-Mig—they barely glanced at it. Our daughter’s father-in-law ended up waiting over 3 hours at the airport because of this!!! Surprise: No luggage. Luckily, we had packed essentials in our carry-ons! Quick administrative paperwork, and Lufthansa informed me our bags would be on the next flight, so no big deal. Off to our hotel in La Candelaria and a good night’s rest.

The plus: We’re in Bogotá! The minus: Flight delays are becoming more and more common.

Day 2: Bogotá

We had a great night—no noise, and an early wake-up, which is pretty standard with jet lag. First Colombian breakfast with fruit (so good!!), coffee (of course), and eggs. Perfect to kick off the sightseeing. Basically, we’ll have more or less the same thing every day throughout Colombia. We start our visits, being extra careful with our belongings (my father-in-law was really worried for us). But honestly, you shouldn’t fixate on it too much. Just don’t flash your wealth, keep your wallet or phone from sticking out—things that actually apply everywhere. It’s obvious we’re tourists, so we just have to accept that. In the La Candelaria neighborhood, there are a lot of police officers.

After some street art photos (we love it), we end up at the San Francisco Church, the first of many. What’s surprising compared to Peru (the only South American country we’ve visited so far) is that the walls aren’t as richly decorated or overly busy.

Next up: the Gold Museum. A must! With the audio guide in our ears, we spend over two hours discovering the treasures of this well-designed museum. The staff is super friendly and answers my questions in my very… *school-level*, basic Spanish!

Then it’s time to head to Plaza Bolívar and its surroundings (Cathedral, Presidential Palace, Parliament, etc.). In Colombia, 70% of the main squares are called Plaza Bolívar, and the remaining 30% are Plaza Mayor! It’s really beautiful, especially with the two nearby peaks (Monserrate and the other one whose name I’ve forgotten). It’s strange to think of this huge city at 2,600 meters altitude with those two mountains so close.

We stop at a restaurant full of locals, with a daily menu for 15,000 pesos—super tasty and efficient.

We try to visit the Police History Museum, but today it’s exceptionally closed because the guide is sick. Bad luck. Later, we wait for the changing of the guard at 3:30 PM, but—exceptionally—it’s not happening today, no reason given this time.

After another church (Nuestra Señora del Carmen), with its vanilla-strawberry colors, we head to the Botero Museum. Another MUST. I’m not usually a fan of art museums, but I loved this one. I adore the guy’s style! The Mona Lisa is awesome.

The day’s already been packed, and we’re feeling the cold, fatigue adding to it. We head back to the hotel to relax before going out to eat at a Mexican place right next to it. At 1:30 AM, the hotel security guard knocks on our door because Lufthansa’s baggage service is delivering our suitcases. We’re groggy but happy!

The +: A great first day packed with discoveries The -: No luck with Bogotá’s military—they exceptionally didn’t put on a show today!

Day 3: Bogotá - Monguí

Another early wake-up, despite the night’s baggage hassle. Breakfast is still really good. The owner (not the boss’s husband) is super friendly, and we chat for a while about Colombia. He calls me a taxi to the LOCALIZA car rental agency, near the airport, and off we go!!!

HOTEL: Explora Hostel - Great spot, in the La Candelaria neighborhood, so it’s close to lots of places you can walk to.

Renting a car in Colombia: Yikes! I’ve driven in quite a few countries around the world, including in South America in Peru, so I’m not too scared. I observed Colombian driving yesterday and kind of get how it works. The main thing in the city is to watch out for motorbikes—there are *so* many, and they overtake from everywhere (right, left, wrong way, sidewalk, over the top, under the bottom—okay, I’m exaggerating a bit). So, I pick up a standard car and, just this once, opt for the cleaning option since you have to return the car clean. Good call, considering how dirty the car ended up being (cost: 5 €). GPS set for Zipaquirá, and off we go. The GPS says 1h15 for 60 km, but I’d already added an extra 45 minutes to my estimate. After 2 hours, we’d only covered 30 km!!!! Endless trucks, impossible to overtake, and the traffic leaving Bogotá is insane. The road network around the capital is completely jammed. So, I change the plan—after Zipaquirá, there’d still be over 200 km left, and I don’t want my first Colombian driving experience to end with night driving. We somehow make it onto a highway, and traffic improves *a lot*. “Highway” is a big word here—while you do pay tolls (and cry thinking about what we pay in France), you’ll find pedestrians, dogs, tons of cyclists, and buses that stop if you wave at them. It’s intense, but that’s just how it is. One constant: trucks drive on the left, even if they’re only going 30 km/h uphill. To overtake, I quickly got the hang of weaving, passing on the right or left. Rain makes everything trickier, demanding even more focus, but we push through, surrounded by misty green mountains. We stop for lunch at a roadside restaurant. It’s fine, nothing special. When you leave the highway and head into the mountains, driving gets even more challenging. You *have* to overtake the trucks. Common tactic: When they hit speed bumps, they slow down even more because of their multiple axles. If there are no cars or trucks coming the other way (I don’t count motorbikes), that’s when you overtake. Sorry for going on about driving so much, but it’s a topic I’d asked about and didn’t find many answers for. Bottom line: driving in Colombia is doable—you just have to adapt to the local style instead of trying to replicate how we drive back home (which, by the way, applies to pretty much everything when traveling abroad). We arrive in Monguí under the sun. It feels like stepping into a Peruvian village, with the main square, the church, and the beautiful buildings around it. Monguí is the “balloon capital,” so we visit the museum dedicated to them. Honestly, it’s nothing to write home about. But there are lots of small artisan workshops making balloons. I had the nerve to ask to see the director of one, and he was *thrilled* to show me his work. What a welcome! Check-in at the hotel by the river. No issues, but when the sun goes down, it gets chilly fast. We wander the village streets a bit more, then look for a restaurant. Nothing great, so we end up at the hotel’s restaurant, which turns out to be the best (according to Tripes à Victor). We hit the sack early—tomorrow’s another day.

The plus: The real adventures are starting The minus: The rain during my first Colombian driving experience

Day 4: Mongui

Today was supposed to be a big hike in the Oceta Páramo. I contacted Maria Tours, where someone had reassured me about the hiking options. We're pretty sporty, even though our sixties are fast approaching. Unfortunately, Maria had a road accident yesterday (nothing serious), but she can't lead the hike. One of her colleagues is taking over. Total surprise when we see him arrive, wearing rubber boots while we have our traditional hiking shoes. We drive to Mongua in my vehicle, and that's where the hike begins. The first 100 meters are steep at 25%, and we're already out of breath. A little regrouping, and then we do it all over again for 200 meters. Wow, this is gonna be tough! Then we take a path that's only 15% incline, but instead of following it, we cut through the switchbacks by following the road's water drainage. Needless to say, it's steep, muddy, and despite what our guide says, it's raining. For him, water falling from the sky that gets you wet—even just a little—isn't rain!! The first hour and a half is just a series of unpleasant, very steep, and very muddy climbs. Then we come across a much more passable path, which also goes uphill but in a reasonable way. We finally reach Laguna Negra, pretty soaked and already physically drained. After a short break, we go around the lake to start the ascent toward the páramo, but walking in 20 cm of mud (now we understand the boots) requires lifting our legs high, and they feel like they weigh a ton each. My dear partner slips and falls in the mud—that’s the last straw. We call it quits. It’s frustrating, but we’re not at our best (or at least the conditions were really against us). Our trip has just started, and we’re already pushing our limits!!! Our guide is upset but admits the weather conditions aren’t good and that we wouldn’t have seen much if we’d gone higher. So, we head back to Mongua, then to Mongui, and take a hot shower at the hotel because we’re freezing! We return to the village, where luckily the weather is nice. Oddly, there are two churches less than 100 meters apart, and two masses happening at the same time!!! Dinner that evening is at the same restaurant as the night before (the only one open), and we crash after a day that left us a bit disappointed deep down.

The plus: The sun on the way back from the hike The minus: The hike we shouldn’t have done given the weather conditions

Day 5: Mongui - Villa de Leyva

A peaceful wake-up, the weather’s nicer than yesterday. Breakfast and then we hit the road to Villa de Leyva.

HOTEL: Calicanto Real Café Muséo: Located by the river, the setting is enchanting, and the room is spacious. The only downside is the keys—you always have to ask a staff member to get in.

Before reaching our final destination, we made a little detour to Tunja to explore the area. It’s lively, and its Plaza Bolívar is just like those in many Colombian towns. After wandering around for about an hour and a half, we head to the Puente de Boyacá. This place is symbolic for Colombians—kind of like their Mount Rushmore. All the big national commemorations happen here because it’s where Bolívar won his first victory on the path to the independence of Gran Colombia. Lots of soldiers are sprucing up the place because in a few days, there’ll be a commemoration with the president of the republic in attendance! Unfortunately, it’s raining, so we cut the visit a bit short. We continue to Sáchica, where we eat at a restaurant overlooking the town after driving through some stunning landscapes. The weather here is better than in Mongui, and we arrive in Villa de Leyva under the sun. Right away, we visit Casa Terracota, a building reminiscent of the Palais du Facteur Cheval and Gaudí’s works. It’s the largest clay house in the world. The designer created something magical. The guided tour is really interesting—we learn a lot about how clay is worked. We end up staying a while to chat and take photos. After that, we head to our hotel, where I can park my car again (a must), and we set off to explore the village of Villa de Leyva. While it has the main square and all the usual features, there are some differences. First, it’s *huge*—one of the largest in South America—and it’s packed with tourists (maybe "packed" is a bit strong, but it’s clear there are a lot). Kids are flying kites, elders are chatting, Catholics are heading to mass (priests here are always busy), and there’s a great vibe. The restaurants are a bit pricier than what we’re used to. Back to the hotel and off to bed.

The plus: Villa de Leyva is a stunning town The minus: The rain at Puente de Boyacá

Day 6: Villa de Leyva

A day dedicated to exploring the area around this beautiful Colombian town. I had planned a little circuit starting with the Periquera waterfalls, then the Honda ones, and finishing with a visit to the Ecce Homo convent—it was supposed to be a loop. In the morning, as usual, I chat with our host, and he tells me the Honda waterfalls are closed. Bummer, because that turns our loop into a different kind of route. No big deal, we're on vacation, and the day is still marked as "cool." So, we head to the Periquera waterfalls. A bit of rain, but not too much. A guide explains what we’re about to see, then lets us go on our own, even though I’d read that you needed to be accompanied. Even better—we prefer it that way! The short hike starts with a relatively flat trail through some gorgeous vegetation, then descends toward the waterfalls. The first and third are pretty nice, the second less so. In theory, you can swim at the last one, but a quick foot soak is enough for my wife. We head back up at a leisurely pace. The park is well done—there’s a bit of a U.S. vibe to the organization, and it’s a cute little spot. The road to get there is unpaved but doable with a regular car. Normally, we would’ve continued on that road, but instead, we backtrack to Villa de Leyva and head to the other side to visit the Ecce Homo convent. Once there, we explore the place—it’s quite pretty, with a stunning cloister. It’s the kind of spot where you need to take your time. This thought hits me when we see a family of tourists (French) who must’ve visited the convent in 10 minutes flat (TTC—*Toute Toilette Comprise*, or "all-inclusive bathroom breaks"). I put myself in their shoes, and they were probably thinking, "Awesome, tomorrow we’re in Rio de Janeiro, and the day after in Buenos Aires!" Not my way of traveling, but to each their own. Later, I chat with a Colombian woman there and tell her I’m disappointed I didn’t get to see the Honda waterfalls. What?! Good grief! They’re open! Ugh, my host misled me! We’ve got time, so we decide to go. We retrace our steps back to Villa de Leyva, then take the dirt road to the first waterfalls (meanwhile, I double-check with other people to confirm they’re open), and keep going. The road gets a little rougher, but it’s manageable. The GPS gets confused, but a sign reassures us we’re on the right track. "Right" is a strong word—over the last 7 km, we climb some steep paths (I call them that even if they’re technically roads). Luckily, no rain, because I think my car would’ve struggled to make it up. We don’t see a soul. After some effort and a hint of worry, we arrive at what looks like the ticket booth for the waterfalls—a farm. A man greets us, machete in hand, asking what we want (you can imagine the cliché). His face is a mix of Lee Van Cleef and Eli Wallach—someone who looks intimidating, a poet, really! We explain, he tells us the price, we pay, and he hands me a key! Turns out, he explains, we need to drive another 2 km, and the key is for the park. Since we’re the only ones there, he trusts us to lock up properly when we’re done and return the key. Such kindness, completely at odds with his slightly scary appearance. We keep going, arrive at the park, and—wow—the place is stunning. Super well-maintained, and the first of the 7 waterfalls is right in front of us. We follow the trail and quickly reach the second one, just as beautiful. We keep going, arrive at the third—same vibe. We need to cross the stream to continue. Unfortunately, my dear wife slips and bangs her knee on a rock. It hurts, and since we’re only at the start of the hike, we decide to turn back. Better safe than sorry—her pain fades after a couple of days, but it wasn’t worth the risk. We head back to the first waterfall, take our time, then leave, making sure to lock the park behind us. We return to the farm to give the key back to Pancho Villa (he had that vibe). He’s not there, but I hear from a nearby field, "Hey! Amigo!" He was working. He’s super friendly, nothing like what you’d expect from his look and machete. We return his key and hit the road (yes, I say that because we run into a school bus on the way back). Unbelievable—no one else around, yet there’s a school bus service. The drive back to Villa de Leyva is a bit long because I’m exhausted from dodging all the potholes. A little rest at the hotel, then we head back to the square, where lots of young (and not-so-young) people are flying kites. A nice little restaurant, and then bed. All in all, a great day.

The plus: Two different hikes The minus: The little incident with my wife, which luckily had no lasting consequences

Day 7: Back to Bogota

Another relaxed wake-up, breakfast just like the previous ones. Today involved a lot of driving, and most importantly, returning to Bogota with the imperative to be there before 6 PM for the rental agency. So, a bit of worry about traffic given our experience leaving Bogota.

HOTEL: Hotel Posada La Rioja - Great location, pretty simple, rooms not very big - Staff (not super knowledgeable about everything) friendly.

We start with a stretch of road to Raquira (pronounce it RRRRRaquira). What a beautiful village! During the visit to Casa Terracota, the guide talked about it a lot, and it’s true that it’s worth the detour. The houses are very colorful, with a theme partly centered around Colombian sports. You can easily wander around. Then we hit the road again to stop further on in Chiquinquira and its cathedral. Of course, it dominates Plaza Bolivar. It’s one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Colombia. It’s massive. We take the time to visit this place of worship properly when suddenly, around a crypt, we come face to face (or rather, hood to hood) with a popemobile! Yes, they managed to get the popemobile that John Paul II used during his trip to Colombia inside, since he obviously visited Chiquinquira (a major pilgrimage site for those who didn’t quite catch that). It must’ve been quite the challenge to get it in, but now the car is there and well settled. I check the time and think maybe we can swing by Zipaquira, which we missed the other day. Waze says it’s doable, so I go for it! We arrive in Zipaquira pretty easily (the issue might be getting back to Bogota afterward). Zipaquirá and its Salt Cathedral. The entrance is a bit pricey by Colombian standards, but it’s really worth visiting. We enter the salt mine right away, with its immense carved galleries. A rather unique Stations of the Cross marks the stops. Fun fact: miners, after their workday, would take some time to dig further to create prayer spaces. Artists then contributed by making modern works around the Stations of the Cross (all of this is super well explained with the audio guide, which is essential for this visit). Little by little, we descend into the mine to reach the huge Salt Cathedral, beautifully lit with light effects that remind me a bit of the Carrières de Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence. Several chapels are scattered around. A nativity scene made of salt and plenty of other religious decorations... It’s truly magical. We go back up, if we want, by a little train that takes us near the parking lot. The timing’s good, and we head back to Bogota pretty quickly. I override my GPS, which wants to take me the same way as before, but I think taking the highway will be better. The facts prove me right. It’s busy, but overtaking trucks is easier with three lanes! We arrive at the rental agency on time. My father-in-law (I hope you’ve been keeping up with who he is?) is waiting for us. He’s so kind. He takes us to our hotel very close to the airport (since we have an early flight tomorrow), then we meet up with his wife to grab dinner at a restaurant. A coffee at their place, and back to the hotel for some shut-eye. Another beautiful day with great weather (even in Bogota!)

The plus: Raquira, top village The minus: nothing, and that’s just how it is!

Day 8: La Macarena

Super early start from the hotel for a flight to La Macarena where we’re going to dance (just kidding, noon)

HOTEL: Aparthotel Oporto 83 - Chosen because it’s really close to the airport (5 min) - Great bedding - Super friendly staff - Perfect

We had a meet-up at 5:30 AM in front of a gas station near the airport with the ecoturismomacarena agency to catch a charter flight to La Macarena. There were 19 of us on the plane (which can hold 20 people). We only packed the essentials for the two nights (my father-in-law kept our suitcases). Yeah, I booked through an agency, but it’s mandatory to visit Caño Cristales—obviously, that’s the whole point of coming to La Macarena. Only 180 people per day are allowed, and the place is heavily controlled—it’s more like luxury tourism... The flight was smooth in a tiny thing that flies through the air. We landed at an airport controlled by the military. You should know La Macarena is a special place. According to the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website, La Macarena is marked yellow (heightened caution for tourists) but is surrounded by red and orange zones (advised against or off-limits except for major reasons), which is why we flew instead of taking ground transport. The military? A few years ago, the airport was controlled by the FARC instead. That said, honestly, I didn’t feel unsafe in the town (village?). We dropped off our stuff at the hotel after a bunch of paperwork and met our guide for the next two days. We got a very strict talk about how protected the area is. No sunscreen (it was 35°C), no mosquito repellent (we were on the edge of the Amazon), no plastic bottles (only sturdy water bottles allowed), no cigarettes (I don’t smoke, so no problem), no alcohol (I don’t drink... well, a few drinks but not while hiking), no... (let’s not get into that), etc. The site is managed by the park authorities, and the guide has to accompany us on certain trails. So, the 180 people allowed each day are targeted, controlled, and everything. The guide handed out our picnic, and we headed to the river where a boat was waiting. A 150-meter walk, and my T-shirt was already soaked (hello, humidity!) Boat—well, more like a motorized canoe: we went upriver and stopped often to see wildlife (caimans, various birds, turtles, monkeys... a real safari!). After 45 minutes, we were dropped off on the bank and immediately started a steep climb through dense, varied equatorial vegetation. My wife still had some lingering knee pain, so it was tough for her. Eventually, we reached a pretty nice viewpoint overlooking the river and forest. Next, we walked about 3 km on a sort of plateau in full sun. Not easy, but we managed. Finally, we arrived at Caño Cristalitos, the little Caño Cristales. What a sight! This small river has colors caused by plants that only grow from July to November. I’d seen photos before (which made me want to come), and it was just like them. We took our time, then the guide took us to another part of the river where there weren’t any colors, but we could swim (water was about 32°C). Amazing! Then we ate: The meal was wrapped in a huge banana leaf folded into quarters and tied with a plant. When we unwrapped it, we found chicken, rice, vegetables, and a flambéed banana. Everything was mixed together, but the original packaging kept it warm. Incredible! After lunch, we kept hiking to discover other parts of the river and gradually got closer to the water. We were pretty exhausted when we reached the river bar. We’d only walked about 7 km, but it was steep. Tomorrow’s supposed to be 11-12 km but flat, according to the guide—my wife panicked a little. We took a good break, drank a nice cold Coke, and watched the monkeys before heading back by boat, stopping again to observe the wildlife. Back at the hotel, we took a dip in the pool. Then we were taken to a restaurant for a folkloric evening, and I was a bit worried—afraid it’d be a tacky tourist trap. My fears were half-founded because all 180 of us were there (I counted, even though some extras were hard to spot!). The "half" part was that there was a dance demonstration by two kids who were absolutely stunning in their focus (8-9 years old). Then the local emcee took the mic, and that’s when it went downhill. Not only did the sound tech think constant red VU meters meant good sound, but the regional Guy Lux was shouting into the mic. We scarfed down our meal and left for the hotel. A good night’s sleep after an extraordinary day.

The plus: Caño Cristales The minus: The Guy Lux of Macarena

Day 9: Cano Cristales

Today we’re doing the real deal!. Another pirogue ride, then we’re loaded into a 4x4 and drive for 20 minutes on tracks that feel straight out of Africa. Finally, the trail begins, and it actually looks pretty flat. Before long, we reach the River of a Thousand Colors—it’s pure magic. Every stop along the way has its own special name (I’ll admit I don’t remember them all). Hyper-photogenic spots (cinematic for me) alternate with swimming holes, and this goes on all day. The kilometers fly by without us even noticing. The heat is intense, but the water feels great. We drink a lot (I brought enough), and the provided meal comes in the same tupperware as yesterday (banana leaf). Everything’s perfect. There are a lot of similarities with Yellowstone in the U.S., but the same observation applies: if the sun isn’t shining, the colors aren’t as vibrant. We got lucky because it rains a lot in this area too. Back at the hotel around 4 p.m., relax by the pool, mediocre dinner at the hotel, and bedtime.

The plus: The whole day The minus: The evening meal, but it’s not on the same scale

Day 10: Back to Bogota

Rough wake-up call—my stomach’s making itself known... The hotel served us some kind of fruit juice, but I’m pretty sure it was watered down. Ugh! Luckily, the first-aid kit’s well stocked. Just a heads-up: we’re on Malarone because in Colombia, you can catch malaria if you go below 1,500 m. That’s the case here, and later it’ll be the same by the Caribbean Sea. This morning, we’re offered a little excursion to the Llanos (local farmland plains), and the guide says there’s a gorgeous swimming spot. The weather’s gloomy, but his description was misleading. The river was pretty, sure, but the swimming area? Meh—nothing like the day before. In fact, no one in our group (yep, we were in a group for the trip—just six of us, so it was nice) even went in! A sign, for sure. Back to the hotel to wait for our flight. No issues on the return flight. We take a taxi (yellow, of course—you know they’re official) to my father-in-law’s place, since our daughter’s arriving from France (her partner got here yesterday), and we’re having a family weekend.

Day 11: Family Day

...

The plus: Our daughter just arrived! The minus: Minor stomach issue, but it cleared up quickly

Day 12: On the way to Salento

Today we start the second part of our trip, as a group of four. My daughter’s partner is from Bogotá, but actually, he doesn’t know his own country very well. This’ll be a great chance for him to see some places, while he’ll share loads of insights about his culture with us. Win-win! Back to the airport and a flight with Latam (TB) to Pereira. A taxi booked by the hotel is waiting for us and takes us to Salento, right in the heart of the coffee region. The scenery is stunning—mountains covered in coffee plants everywhere. After an hour’s drive (on a good road), we arrive in this absolutely gorgeous village where all the houses are colorful and Plaza Bolívar is magical. Quick check-in at the hotel, where we’re welcomed warmly. (Oh, the owner gives us earplugs! Weird!) We head to the square for lunch—amazing patacones—and just watch life go by. A short climb up to the two viewpoints overlooking the town, then back to the square where some kind of ceremony seems to be getting ready. It’s a celebration to honor the soldiers who fought in the war against the FARC and other militias. (After chatting with my daughter’s father-in-law, it’s clear that Colombians suffered a lot because of the drug-related violence. We walked around his neighborhood in Bogotá without any issues, but he told me that back in the day, he wouldn’t go to those places because there were often shootouts—few places felt safe!) We get to hear speeches from the mayor (actually the *mayoress*), General Alcazar, and General Tapioca (Tintin fans will get it), followed by a military parade with a unit in camouflage gear (they look like Chewbacca, and there are tons of them!). A wreath-laying ceremony, then a concert by the music school, and finally some stunning dance performances. Through this event, you really see how Colombians live—so much joy in being together and sharing festive moments (even during an official ceremony). Dinner at a restaurant and (theoretically) bedtime. When we get back to the hotel, like everywhere else, there’s music (a constant in Colombia), but *this time*… Right below our room, there’s a restaurant blasting music. It feels like a nightclub. The walls are vibrating, and the earplugs are useless. This goes on until 1 a.m., when the music suddenly stops. Finally, we can sleep! Or so we thought… The customers want to keep the party going. So, they bring a car in front of the restaurant and—boom—music at full volume until 4 a.m.!!! Well, tomorrow we’ll have to figure something out.

The +: Salento—another incredible village The -: The hotel had super nice people, but the noise was unbearable!

Day 13: The Cocora Valley

After that infamous night, we decide to leave the hotel. I want to see the owner to get a refund. His employees tell me he’s not there. We agree to go on the excursion first and decide later. The employees are really sorry—they’re as nice as can be. Back in the central square, we buy tickets for the Jeep Willys that Salento is famous for. Actually, they’re surplus American jeeps, painted in every color imaginable, and for next to nothing, they take tourists to the Cocora Valley park about 20 km away. It’s part of the local charm—cheap and practical. The jeeps are packed to the brim. I end up in the front with a Cocora Valley guide. I ask him for some tips, and he tells me it’s best to do the 14 km loop clockwise. I knew I wanted to do the big loop but wasn’t sure which way. So I listen to him, and it turns out to be a great call. I also notice he’s wearing rubber boots. NOOO, not the mud baths again! I ask him about the trail conditions. He reassures me that it’s dry right now. We’ll see. When we arrive in Cocora, it’s breathtaking. This valley, with its wax palms towering over each other, is stunning! We pay an entrance fee and start the hike. It’s a steady climb on an excellent trail. Everything is well-maintained. There are people around, but it doesn’t feel crowded. The last part of the climb on this loop takes us to Finca de la Montana (the highest point). It’s a bit steeper, but it’s manageable. We have lunch there—quite a few of us. From there, you can see the trail ahead, which starts to descend. Some people did the loop the other way (including some French travelers who asked me for advice, and I shared the guide’s tip). When we see them arrive, they look exhausted, worn out, and fried... On the descent, we understand why. The trail is extremely steep, full of roots and very high steps. Going the other way, it feels like you’re descending into the depths of the earth. As a hiker, I much prefer climbing to descending (my heart handles the uphill rhythm, but my knees don’t like the jolts of going down). But in this case, it’s clear that descending this part was the better choice. Thanks, guide! This challenging descent is also gorgeous—the landscape is tropical, with banana trees and other plants. We cross monkey bridges, follow a lovely river, and at one point, we’re back among the wax palms that make the Cocora Valley famous. There’s a little mud, but not too much. What a beautiful hike! We return to the village in the Jeep Willys (we had a round-trip ticket). Before heading back to the hotel, we look for another one. We find a quiet, really nice place. We book it for the next two nights and go pick up our bags. The owner is there, looking really embarrassed. He’s a good guy. He refunds me for the next two nights (even though he loses money because of Booking). He wants to buy the restaurant downstairs but can’t. He knows exactly what the problem is. HOTEL: Camino Nacional – Without that restaurant, it would be great—perfectly located with adorable staff.

We cross the village with our suitcases and settle into the new hotel, which has a beautiful view. My wife takes a shower and tells me there’s hardly any water left at the end. My daughter can’t take hers. I talk to the owner, and she tells me the village has no water—it’s a general outage. Their hotel has a huge tank on the roof that collects rainwater. This supplies a shared bathroom downstairs with the only working toilet. Better than nothing, but seriously, no luck (with water)! Dinner and bed. During the night, the water comes back on in the village, and everything’s fine.

The +: The hike—definitely one of the most beautiful I’ve ever done! The -: The water outage in the village!

Day 14: Coffee

Quiet wake-up after a good night’s sleep. Forgot all about the struggles of the night before. This morning, we went horseback riding in the mountains around Salento. We’re not exactly riders, but I’d read that the activity was fun and the horses were treated really well. Julian welcomes us perfectly—you can tell he loves his horses. “Spectacular” is his word, and he’ll say it *a lot*. We start with a steep climb; the horses handle it without any issues, but we’re less comfortable in the end. Then we *caballamos* (how do you say that?) on a path shared with motorcycles, cars, minibuses, etc. You’ve got to be careful, but one word from Julian and all the horses obey, moving to the side. We walk at a pace or trot, without really controlling them—the horses seem to go at their own rhythm. We leave that road (yes, it *was* a road) for a trail that descends toward the river. This part is really fun—we cross the “spectacular” river several times, the horses seem to love it, then suddenly they break into a gallop across a plain before stopping. They really do whatever they want, but they look happy. The ride continues through the mountains—“spectacular.” After two hours, we meet up with the road from the start and head back. Three hours total—plenty, and a great way to explore the surrounding mountains. Back at Plaza Bolívar, we have a meal of patacones, then decide to visit a coffee finca. I’d read that Finca Don Ellis was pretty simple, with permaculture-style farming, so we picked that one. The road (or path) to get there is the same one we took this morning on horseback. Then it descends, and after about 4 km, we arrive at the finca. Warm welcome. We wait a bit for more people to arrive, but after a while, we still don’t start the tour. We wait. Finally, the visit begins with 30 people (almost all French). The guide asks what language he should use. Three young people choose English, so off we go. The others don’t say anything. The guy starts his explanations, and despite my *South Los Angeles* accent, I don’t understand a thing. I look around—no one seems to be following his English. So I ask the guide if he wouldn’t mind trying Spanish. The people around me agree, except for the three young ones. When I tell them my daughter’s friend can translate, they calm down a bit. We end up doing the tour in Spanish, with occasional help from my favorite Colombian. It’s interesting, but it’s still a tour with 30 people! The coffee is *really* good. Now we’ve got to get back up to Salento. Most visitors had taken a round-trip ticket on a Jeep Willis and were waiting for a ride. Small issue—at that hour, there was only one Jeep left for over twenty people. We’d originally planned to walk back up, but my wife was a little tired (me too, honestly), though the young ones were less so. We couldn’t take a jeep, but the *cafetero* (what do you call that?) tells me a regular bus will pass by soon. We decide to take it. Turns out the “bus” was a converted van, packed when it picked us up—flour sacks, dogs, people, and all sorts of stuff. No problem, we squeeze in! The young ones had already covered more than half the distance when we passed them. True, the van kept picking up (and dropping off) people along the way. When you think about safety standards in Europe, and then this… it works! Another great day of discovery. Nice shower (since there’s water!) Dinner + bedtime.

The +: The “spectacular” horseback ride The -: The huge group at the finca

Day 15: On the way to Medellín

Another peaceful wake-up. We're really enjoying our vacation, far from work! A taxi we booked the night before takes us to Pereira Airport for our flight to Medellín.

HOTEL: Posada del Angel - Great location, very quiet, beautiful view, helpful staff.

I chose to take quite a few flights because, first, Colombia is a big country, and second, when you consider the quality-price-time ratio, it's a winner! A flight with luggage costs around 50 €, with comfort and punctuality guaranteed, and it takes less than an hour. By bus, it's around 12 €, but it takes 5-6 hours with basic comfort. So, no problem with the flight. We find a taxi at the airport that takes us to the Poblado neighborhood in Medellín (the airport is far from the city center). We settle in, the receptionist gives us a metro card that we just need to top up, and off we go to the historic center of Medellín. The metro is 900m away. It's a really beautiful elevated metro, the only one in Colombia, and super practical. The downside is that when we take it, it's packed. We're squeezed in like sardines, but we eventually reach our destination. Our destination is Botero Plaza and the Antioquia Museum. Outside, it's a showcase of the master's works. His plump statues are gorgeous (in our opinion, of course). The Antioquia Museum also holds treasures by the artist, but this time they're paintings. Next, we visit the Palacio de la Cultura Rafael Uribe Uribe (free entry). It's nice and grand. Finally, we end with the Basilica of La Candelaria, the largest church in Medellín, but strangely, it's not very big. It's odd for Colombia's second-largest city to have such a small church as its main place of worship. Otherwise, Medellín seems like a super pleasant city, with a milder climate than Bogotá and really open. This city has suffered a lot, both in reality and from its reputation. That was 30 years ago, when it was the most dangerous city in the world. When I think about what my father-in-law told me about what he saw in Bogotá back then—which wasn’t even comparable to Medellín—I can’t imagine what life was like here (I’ll find out the day after tomorrow!) We head back to our very pleasant hotel, have a disgusting meal nearby (we’ll do better next time), and look forward to a good night’s sleep.

The plus: Botero’s works The minus: the evening meal, the only truly disgusting one of the whole trip

Day 16: Guatape

Today’s excursion outside Medellin. We take the metro to Caribe North Terminal station, then buy our bus ticket to Guatape (window 9 or 14). Best to arrive early because it gets crowded, and the first ones served get a numbered seat. The bus ride takes about two hours. As mentioned before, the bus picks up passengers along the way. On the way there, the bus was full but it was okay. We’re stopped at the Penon de Guatape, and the staircase hike begins. Two hundred steps to warm up, and we reach the parking lot for the site. I buy the tickets, and the climb up the rock with its 750 steps starts. In the end, it’s manageable without too much trouble. My daughter does it in one go; personally, I take a 30-second break around the 500th step (no, I didn’t count, but there’s a marker every 50 steps). While the stairs might seem impressive, it’s super well organized—there’s one direction for going up and separate stairs for coming down.

Once at the top, the view is fantastic over the huge artificial lake created by the construction of a dam. It reminds us of the Thousand Islands in Canada. Again, we take our time, cool off, and then start the descent. Yep, after going up, you’ve got to come back down!

At the bottom, tuk-tuks or taxis are waiting to take us to the village of Guatape, a few kilometers away. Once there, we immediately buy our return tickets for the 4:30 PM bus to ensure we get a seat. Good thing we did—while the bus was full on the way there, it was packed on the way back. We can explore the village of Guatape at our leisure. What a beautiful place! Every single house is decorated with *zocalos*—bas-relief sculptures that tell stories or represent the passions or professions of the residents. For example, a baker might decorate with bread images, while another highlights the Tour de France. And so on... There’s a municipal requirement to do this, and it creates an extraordinary effect. On the main square, there’s a lively fair run by the local schools to raise funds. You can eat homemade food at unbeatable prices while helping the school earn a little extra. We wander through all the possible streets and take a ton of photos. At 4:20 PM, we’re settled on the bus for a pretty wild ride back to Medellin. There were 18 seats on this bus. At one point, we were 40 people, and the driver kept stopping to pick up more passengers. Eventually, there was a moment when no one else could board. We arrive back in Medellin around 7 PM. Metro + shower + dinner (really good, by the way) + bedtime. Another great day (I know I’m repeating myself, but I’ve got to explain it to people!)

The plus: The village of Guatape (again!)—even more beautiful! The minus: Tough one—let’s say the packed bus, though it’s all part of the folklore.

Day 17: Medellín

This morning I booked a guided tour of the Medellín neighborhood called Comuna 13. We head to the meet-up point by metro, and our guide is waiting for us. There’ll be about twenty of us. He speaks slowly in Spanish, so it’s easy to understand. At first, I thought we’d be seeing the many graffiti pieces in this neighborhood. Even though we saw quite a few, that’s not what I remember most about this tour. Thirty years ago, Comuna 13 was the most dangerous neighborhood in the most dangerous city in the world!! I won’t spell it out, but you can imagine what went on here. When things calmed down, and in agreement with the militias still present, the Medellín municipality and the Colombian government wanted to help this neighborhood. First, the metro reached it, then they bet everything on education and culture. Huge investments were made in that direction. The organization I chose for the tour is actually a youth association that did everything to get out of that life without violence. Our guide (around 40 years old) told us many anecdotes, including one where, during a shootout, he and his friends lay down to protect themselves, and two didn’t get back up. That was life in Comuna 13 for people who had nothing to do with the drug trade. There were mistakes... So, the graffiti aspect fades into the background compared to everything he tells us. As we climb (since the neighborhood sprawls up a hill—higher up meant cheaper but less accessible), we meet young people offering to show what the residents of Comuna 13 are capable of. Some show graffiti, others street dances, performances, etc. All these young people (teenagers, really) display pride in living in the neighborhood and pride in wanting to make an honest living. I think the politicians can be proud of their long-term work. Education and culture are truly the lifeblood for young people. (Food for thought) To open up the neighborhood, especially the higher areas, outdoor escalators were built. They’re quite unique. Our guide explains that these escalators changed his life and his parents’ lives because getting to Medellín became much easier than before (and there’s quite a slope!). It’s true that the neighborhood has become a bit touristy now, with lots of vendors selling everything, but what a transformation! No sense of insecurity, and people are smiling. We have a drink at the top, from a viewpoint. Facing us is another neighborhood that was also opened up, but this time with a cable car like in ski resorts! We head back down on our own (we left the group; our guide offered to take those who wanted to the metro), heading toward the Parroquial LA America cemetery, which our guide recommended visiting. Besides the many victims of the war that devastated Colombia, it has a completely original structure. We then take the metro to San Antonio Square, where we eat and discover more works by Botero, including the famous *Bird of Paradise* statue, partially destroyed in a terrorist attack that killed many. The artist later recreated a nearly identical statue, and the two now stand side by side. We wanted to visit the nearby Memory Museum, but it was closing early, so we took a taxi to Cerro Nutibara, a 360° viewpoint over Medellín. Up there is a small reconstruction of Colombian villages. Having seen the real thing, it seems a bit limited. We walk back down through the Sculpture Park, where South American artists have created very modern works. We don’t understand everything, but it’s a pleasant walk. We take a taxi back to the hotel, pack our bags, and find another taxi to take us to a hotel near the airport because tomorrow we have a 6 AM flight, and the airport is far from the city. Medellín is definitely a city worth discovering, one that deserves a return visit. I find it more appealing than Bogotá.

HOTEL: Colinkhouse Hotel - Excellent - High-quality services and well-located in a very safe neighborhood

The plus: The story of Comuna 13 and knowing what happened there The minus: The story of Comuna 13: What a tragedy!

Day 18: Arriving at the Caribbean Sea

Super early wake-up, a free shuttle takes us to the airport because our flight is really early. Flight with Avianca, no issues, heading to Santa Marta.

HOTEL: Hotel & Golf Isak Aeropuerto - Super convenient - The rooms are in containers, but really well done. Comfortable, quiet, and efficient shuttle service at a very reasonable price.

What surprises us when we arrive in Santa Marta around 7:30 AM is the heat already present at that hour. Stepping out of the airport is like a heatwave! I pick up our second rental car, bigger this time since there are four of us with some hefty luggage. It’s an automatic, has good AC, and off we go toward Santa Marta. The city doesn’t leave us with an unforgettable memory. It seems like a beach resort where partying at night makes sense. But right now, it’s morning, and it feels abandoned—except for lots of people who seem to be sleeping off the rum that must’ve flowed freely. The few tourists we meet along the way seem to be into beach + party vibes. We check out the city cathedral, some painted walls, stop for a photo in front of the stadium, and especially the statue of a Colombian footballer with a unique look who made a name for himself with the national team and Montpellier in France: Carlos Valderrama. For those who don’t know, his look was striking when he played, and the statue captures his spirit perfectly. Off to Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino, the final home of the national hero, Simón Bolívar. An amazing visit, with his hacienda where you can see his bedroom and bathroom—and that famous bathtub. What really stands out about the place are the gorgeous gardens, where the intense heat is softened by the shade of majestic trees. Lots of iguanas strutting around on the branches and well-kept lawns. This place is also a tribute to the *Libertador*. Besides the many squares named after him in Colombia, there’s a monument here dedicated to him—kind of similar (watch out!) to the Lincoln Memorial in Washington. Fair to say the guy deserves this recognition. What he did for the people of South America is incredible. I’m actually surprised no major film has been made about his life—it really deserves to be known. I had the same thought during my trip to Malta about Caravaggio, another historical figure with an extraordinary life. A few months after that reflection, a film about the Italian artist came out. Hopefully, the same will happen for the Venezuelan hero, since even though he liberated many countries, he was born in Venezuela. By the way, his remains are in Caracas now, after spending some time in Santa Marta. Okay, end of the *Alain Decaux raconte...* segment—back to the car and off to the beach, just a beach! We drive toward Tayrona Park, which we’ll visit tomorrow, looking for a spot to stop the car and take a dip. Well, even though the road runs along the coast just a few meters away, there’s nowhere to pull over, and even better—you can’t even see the sea because the vegetation is so thick. We arrive at the village of Buritaca (which I’d scoped out beforehand), knowing there was a chance to swim there. A curious village, by the way—you have to pay an entrance fee to get in. The parking lot is near restaurants where they advise us to stop because, in addition to meals, they offer a changing room and showers. So that’s what we do. The meal is decent, the changing rooms don’t exist, and the shower—we’ll see later. We head toward the water. I say *water* because at this spot, there’s a river flowing into the sea, so two swimming options (freshwater or saltwater). The catch for getting to the sea is that you have to swim across the river or take a boat service. We decide I’ll cross by boat with the bags, and the other three will swim across. Great deal. We spend some time on the beach—it’s not really my thing, but my daughter loves it, riding the waves. I try both swims and then head back to the parking lot restaurant, where the showers turn out to be a garden hose. 🙂 Since we ended our swim in freshwater and we’ve got about 20 km to get back to the hotel, we don’t linger. Now, we just have to find the hotel. We retrace our route (well, yes, on foot you retrace your steps, but by car...). The hotel I found is really close to the entrance of Tayrona Park. The GPS leads me to a spot, warning that we’ll soon be driving on unpaved roads. Sure enough, we end up on a street that’s less and less drivable, where the houses look more like a shantytown than anything else. Can’t go any further, so I park the car, tell the girls to stay inside and lock the doors, and my daughter’s friend and I set off on foot to find the hotel. We ask some locals, who aren’t sure the hotel even exists but point us straight ahead anyway. No phone signal here, of course! So we walk 500 meters on a road that would be impossible for a normal car, arrive at a river, take off our shoes, and wade across because we think we see a sign on the other side. Sure enough, the hotel is marked 200 meters away. We keep going and arrive at a magical place! The owner, a French woman, welcomes us and explains that we should’ve called because you really need a 4x4 to get there. She calls her husband, also French, who goes to fetch his ancient 4x4 (50 years old), all beat up but starts right up. We head back to where we left the girls, who during our expedition were worried sick and had come up with all kinds of scenarios. We leave the car with a friend of the owner and load up the 4x4, heading to the hotel lost in the middle of nowhere. The meal they offer is excellent, the rooms are gorgeous, and despite the stifling heat, we’re happy!

The plus: This hidden gem of a hotel The minus: Santa Marta

Day 19: Tayrona Park

Well, today we're going for a swim! Though it's not just any swim because you have to hike 7.5 km to reach the beach! What? That’s ridiculous! And you have to pay for it too! Yeah, it’s a weird concept, but we go for it. We choose the El Zaino entrance. How does it work? First, you have to pay for insurance at the first window. Then queue up at a second window where they take your ID, give you a paper to bring to a third window where you pay. But that’s not all—at the third window, they give you another paper to take back to the second window to finally get your entrance ticket, which is checked by another person. Administratively, it’s not bad! Then, for those who want to avoid walking 4.5 km on a road, there are paid shuttles we gladly take. Once we arrive at the shuttle parking lot, the hike can begin. There are a lot of people, but the trail is really well-maintained. It’s beautiful in the middle of a tropical forest (though we still can’t see the sea). At one viewpoint, we finally see the water and a gorgeous beach. However, swimming is forbidden there, so we keep walking, passing a second beach—very wild but also off-limits due to dangerous currents. We continue through the lush forest until we reach a third beach, where there are all kinds of facilities to entertain swimmers. Having read that the last one is the most beautiful, we keep going. After 7.5 km, we finally arrive at that beach. It really is stunning, with palm trees dipping into the sand, crystal-clear water, but also crowds. Still, some brave souls hike 7.5 km in sweltering heat just to go for a swim. Luckily, the journey is better than the destination. We swim, take our time... and then we have to head back. Same path, same heat, back on the bus. My daughter wanted to swim in the Caribbean Sea—we did it, but it felt strange. Back to the hotel. Great dinner + bedtime.

The +: A chill day (though 15 km of walking is crazy!) The -: A bit too crowded for my taste

Day 20: Minca

This morning we take our time. The hotel is so... nice that we have a leisurely breakfast while watching little monkeys playing in the branches and colorful birds coming to say hello.

HOTEL: Barranquero Hotel - The best!

The owner gives us a ride in his century-old jeep to the parking lot where our vehicle is parked, and it's a short trip to Minca, a small town nestled in the surrounding mountains. Minca is really tiny! Today, I planned to visit a cocoa farm. It's 2.5 km away, so I decide to walk since the car can't make it. The owners had suggested using motorbikes to get up there, but hey, we've got legs. That was a 15% incline over 2.5 km in 40 minutes!!! Tough going!

The path was certainly beautiful, with lots of flowers, but really steep. My wife cracked when we were 200 meters from the top and wanted to stay put. Luckily, the youngsters were persuasive, and we made it to the top—under sweltering heat with 90% humidity, of course. What a visit! From the tree to the chocolate cake, everything was well explained and clear. We tasted everything as the chocolate was being made. The further along we got, the stronger the aromas. Our noses were put to the test. It's hard to capture the smell in a travel journal, but it was amazing! All that sweating to get up to the farm was totally worth it. The descent after the visit wasn't easy either—the incline was just as steep, our knees were suffering, and the heat and humidity were still there. Thankfully, I knew there was a pool waiting at the hotel, which gave me the courage to keep going. We took a while to find the hotel—the GPS couldn’t locate the street, and neither could we visually, since it was hidden behind lots of motorbikes. But we found it in the end, and a relaxing late afternoon by the pool was just what we needed. Dinner at a great restaurant and then bed (as usual!)

The plus: Mmm, the chocolate! The minus: It’s so humid here!

Day 21: On the way to Cartagena

Early start because we had a meet-up with Jungle Joe for a bird-watching tour. We were given binoculars, and just leaving the village center, we were already amazed by the variety of birds we could see. Our guide is a real enthusiast—he’s constantly scanning the sky and knows how to spot the birds. Every time we saw one, he’d show it to us on his phone and play its call (sometimes even using the call to attract them). We were thrilled to see the famous multicolored toucan, even if it wasn’t too close. The tour lasted about 3 hours, and we walked the whole time, but apart from the mosquitoes, it wasn’t bothersome.

HOTEL: Hotel Paraiso Minca - Great, very quiet, super chill, with a pool. Perfect.

Since there are 250 km to cover, I planned a stop in Barranquilla, halfway through, to take a breather, expecting some white-knuckle driving. Turns out, there wasn’t much traffic, the road was good, and Barranquilla came into view. This big port city isn’t pretty at all, so we didn’t stop and kept going. Suddenly, I saw a sign for "Puerto Colombia" with a palm tree drawn on it. That tempted me, so I turned toward this little village. Good call—it turns out this is the original site of Barranquilla, meaning before the main port moved to Barranquilla, this is where all the immigrants arrived. There’s a huge pier jutting out into the sea (it was once the largest on the continent). There are also some really beautiful statues, each representing a country and telling the story of its immigrants (e.g., France with a statue resembling one of the Lumière brothers, Italy with a gondolier, etc.). We took the opportunity to eat fish at a restaurant by the water, visited the pink church (yes, Barbie must be from here, while Shakira is from Barranquilla). A really nice visit, found totally by chance. We hit the road again and stopped at the El Totumo Mud Volcano. The volcano is still active, but instead of lava, it spews hot mud. People bathe in the crater, and supposedly, it has amazing benefits. Not really our thing, and especially all the surrounding stuff felt like a cheap Disneyland, with constant solicitations and not-great service. We saw it, didn’t conquer it, and left. Arrived in Cartagena without any issues, even though I’d been warned about a tricky entrance to the city. I rented an apartment in a hotel—it’s really great. Since it was raining a lot, we ended the day inside playing games. Dinner at the hotel restaurant (not great) and bedtime.

The plus: The surprise of Puerto Colombia The minus: The morning mosquitoes that left marks on our ladies’ legs

Day 22: Cartagena’s Old Town

A relaxed wake-up, breakfast at the hotel restaurant (included and very good), then we set off on foot toward the center of Cartagena. It’s about a half-hour walk. Even this early in the morning, it’s already scorching hot and humid. First stop at Rafael Núñez’s house—who, as everyone knows, is the local Rouget de Lisle. There isn’t much to see, but it’s a chance to check out a 19th-century Caribbean-style home.

We continue to the Indi Catalina monument, a statue of an indigenous woman honoring the area’s original inhabitants, before finally entering the walled Old Town. The Torre del Reloj and the various squares we visit are stunning. Sure, there are a lot of tourists, but it’s still manageable. You can tell—because it happens sometimes—that when a cruise ship unloads its passengers, the Old Town must get completely packed. The San Pedro Claver Church is gorgeous (the guy was a good dude, so the building dedicated to him is really interesting). Plaza Bolívar (yet another one) is under construction, but then the rain starts to fall. It’s going to be a downpour, so we take shelter in the Gold Museum, which is free and nice but way less impressive than the one in Bogotá. Once the rain lets up, we head back out and keep wandering through Cartagena’s beautiful streets, moving from square to square (not all of them are called Plaza Bolívar—one per city is enough!). We get closer to the walls—absolutely stunning. What’s less stunning is the rain starting up again, but this time it’s pouring! Since it’s around 1 p.m., we decide to quickly find a restaurant. No luck—none nearby, and there’s a taxi right there. We hop in to get back to the apartment and grab a snack there. About 600 meters from the place, the taxi breaks down—engine flooded by the massive puddles and the relentless rain. We didn’t want to get soaked, but that’s exactly what happens as we end up walking the rest of the way. And then—the accident! My backpack was in front to protect the camera, the sidewalks overflowing with water, and me walking pretty fast—I didn’t see the sneaky hidden hole, and *bam*—double sprain of my left ankle. I go down hard, of course. I know the pain, and I know exactly what happened. I limp the rest of the way back to the apartment in the rain. Ice, a painkiller, and I watch my ankle swell up like crazy. The bummer! The whole group is pretty shaken, but I decide to laugh it off. With all our travels, this is the first time something like this has happened to us. Hospital or not? Used to this kind of injury, I think it’s unnecessary. It’s not broken, so it’ll be fine. Since it’s still raining and morale is low, we stay at the apartment, and the others go grab some food from a nearby restaurant.

Thankfully, we’d already seen most of Cartagena’s highlights that morning. End of the day was quiet, and early to bed.

The plus: Despite the tourists, Cartagena’s Old Town The minus: My ankle

Day 23: Islas Rosario

Tough morning—my ankle’s gone through every color of the rainbow, and I can’t put my foot down. Today was supposed to be a catamaran day for snorkeling and swimming around the Rosario Islands. So, if I can just make it to the boat, the rest should be okay. We take a taxi that drops us off in front of the huge catamaran (this one didn’t break down!) and, with my hiking poles, I manage to board without any issues. The boat is really big—it must hold over a hundred tourists. There’ll only be about thirty of us, so plenty of space. It’s a bit pricey, but everything’s all-inclusive.

We leave the port of Cartagena—already worth it—and then sail for a good two hours toward the islands. We stop by a beach, and into the water we go. Not too hard for me since I can hold on to plenty of spots. Once I’m in the water, my foot doesn’t feel a thing. The water’s crystal clear, but as for fish or coral, it’s nothing special. That said, the setting around us is enchanting. We stay for an hour, then head off to another spot, even wilder and just as beautiful. No snorkeling here because the sea’s a bit choppy, so you can’t see anything underwater. But swimming here is amazing. From the boat, the young ones don’t hesitate to dive into that 30°C water. The return trip is really pleasant—we realize we’ve tanned like crazy. Some tourists look more like undercooked shrimp, but we’re all good. A taxi back, and I’m back on the apartment couch. We order in a meal, and the day comes to an end. An excellent day of relaxation, where we were pampered, and on top of that, it didn’t rain!!! My ankle’s still a rainbow!

The +: An extraordinary day The -: My painful ankle

Day 24: Cartagena, continuing with the surrounding areas

After waking up, I announce to everyone that I’m staying in the apartment in the morning because I’d planned to explore the outskirts of Cartagena, which involves a lot of walking, and that just wasn’t possible! My daughter stays with me while the other two head to Castillo San Felipe on foot. Apparently, it was tough for them—it was so hot. It’s worth it, but I don’t have all the details since I wasn’t there. Once they’re back, we eat some fruit, and I offer to drive them (an automatic car, so only using my right foot!) to the Convento de la Popa. I’d seen there was a parking lot near the entrance. With my walking sticks and some help, I should be able to visit the place. And sure enough, it goes as I’d planned. It was tough and took a while to walk around, but in the end, I don’t regret it—the view of Cartagena from the convent is amazing. Plus, it was my only outing of the day! After that, we head back, rest, eat, and then bedtime. The group’s morale isn’t great, and my ankle is getting more and more swollen!

The plus: Having an apartment in the end was really great The minus: My ankle V3

Day 25: Back to Bogota

It feels like the end is near! We have a morning flight to arrive around 1 PM in Bogota. We return the car at the airport. The rental agent is surprised to see the driver getting out of the car with walking sticks and... well, walking like *something*—I couldn’t quite put my finger on what, but walking oddly, anyway. The airport is nearby. Right away, I’m provided with a wheelchair (I requested assistance for all flights). We go through all the checks with priority, and then we’re off to the Colombian capital. My father-in-law (he’s great) is waiting for us. We’d planned to visit Distrito Graffiti. The younger ones and the boss will walk, while I’ll go by car. No problem, since there was nobody around. The graffiti is absolutely stunning—each piece more beautiful than the last, and way more plentiful than in Medellin. We spend a good while there, then head to my father-in-law’s place, where I rest until evening. After that, we all go out to eat at a nice restaurant. It’s almost over!

The plus: The accident happened at the end of the trip, thankfully. The minus: It feels like the end... of the trip, of course!

Days 26 & 27: Return to France + Recap

Our flight is tonight at 11:30 PM. So I spend the day with my leg stretched out, just waiting for time to pass—me, the hyperactive one! Nothing much to say about this day with family (it’s a holiday in Bogotá). At the airport, I’m immediately put in a wheelchair. We say goodbye to everyone (my daughter and her boyfriend are staying a few more days), and my wife and I go through all the checks really quickly. The flight to Frankfurt is going to be long, and I’m a bit worried about my ankle. I don’t sleep at all. The flight attendants give me ice, and in the end, when we arrive in Frankfurt, it’s swollen but less than I’d imagined. A wheelchair is waiting for me at the plane’s exit. Then we take one of the electric carts to cross the huge airport, and I’m dropped off right in front of the departure gate. But here’s the problem: as long as I’m waiting to board, it’s fine, but when it’s time to get on the plane, I can’t. My wife scrambles to find a wheelchair, and she finally gets one with an attendant who keeps apologizing for the oversight. The one-hour flight to Lyon, and we arrive at 11 PM. Same thing—I wait for a wheelchair. The Lufthansa attendants tell me one is supposed to be there, but we’re in Lyon (France), and nothing’s set up. Finally, a young woman arrives with a wheelchair and takes me to baggage claim. She says goodbye because she’s not allowed to go any further. So my wife ends up with two big suitcases, two carry-ons, and me, the injured guy in a wheelchair. We have to take a shuttle to get our car and head home. Somehow, we make it to the bus stop. I explain the situation to the driver—that I’m in a wheelchair that isn’t mine and have no idea what to do once I’m on the bus. His response: "Anyway, it’s chaos here—just leave it at the bus stop." We’re far from Colombian service! We get home tired but happy about the trip.

Quick recap: Flights: Standard with Lufthansa. Cars: Great condition, driving was a bit bold, but overall great. Food: Good but not amazing—except for the fruit. Hotels: Great, especially considering the prices!!! Itinerary: Very packed but awesome—we saw so many beautiful things, met great people, and did tons of diverse activities. Climate: Really tough, especially because of the humidity almost everywhere. If I were to do it again: I wouldn’t change a thing except for the ankle sprain (which I could’ve done without) and maybe moving the Oceta Páramo excursion to the end of the trip when we’d be better acclimated to the altitude.

In my opinion, if Colombia keeps going like this, it’s going to become a major tourist destination fast. It has huge potential, incredible cultural richness, and stunning, varied landscapes. There’s a good chance I’ll go back (family reasons...) and I already know what I want to visit next. Three weeks won’t be enough—I had to make choices and skip some places, so... As for my ratings (the + and the -), they’re not on the same scale. The + is truly top-tier, and the - is often just nitpicking. Don’t hesitate to ask me questions—I think I can answer quite a few! Thanks for reading! A+

Hi Ellobo, I really enjoyed reading your travel journal and your humor. My wife and I are thinking about our next destination: returning to Crete (I loved it! 1 month in spring 2024), or Mexico (it’s been about 20 years), or Colombia (though at 80, it’d be less athletic than for you). I’ll keep an eye out and reach out if needed. PS: Take good care of your ankle!

Hi there, happy to help out. The country is so beautiful! Cheers,