That's Kenya too...

Hey fellow travelers,

I'm back in the "travel journal" section to share our 15-day adventure in Kenya in November 2024. It was pretty much our first time in East Africa (since Zanzibar doesn’t really count 😜).

As usual, I’m sharing the journal I made for our loved ones—still as casual and cheerful as ever, just to give them a little break from their tough workdays 😄.

We organized the whole trip ourselves, and to be original here LOL, we took some *very* well-trodden paths: Naivasha, Tsavo, and Diani. But what I loved about this country is that it’s so easy to go off the beaten track—even on the "tourist highways" 😉.

So, if you're a safari fanatic or after stunning wildlife photos, you might be disappointed. But if you want to discover other sides of Kenya, you might just find what you're looking for 😉.

Looking forward to sharing this fun journey with you all 😊.

Hey Christelle 🙂

Really looking forward to following your new adventure! You must’ve come across some animals in Kenya though, right??? Because if the answer’s no, this travel journal is really going off the beaten path

Oh yes, there’ll be plenty of animals, Pascale—even when it wasn’t planned! 😄

I feel reassured now! Can't wait for the next part to see your adventures! 🙂

What a beautiful adventure, it's a well-deserved story. It proves that Kenya isn't just the Masai Mara and Amboseli, but also other lesser-known projects—its diversity, its people, the culture, the lakes, and islands, etc.

Hi Christelle, Ohhh...Finally! 😏😏😏 I’ll definitely be following your travel journal closely, and I bet it’ll make me want to go back there... in a different way 😉

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The hills covered in tea plantations are gorgeous!!

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Hi Solene, glad you're back and happy about this new travel journal 😉

😠 Oh great, here’s a new travel journal and no one tells me! Well, luckily the ink’s still fresh—I’ve got time to settle in!

A new travel journal in Kenya... I’d love to tag along too! 🙂 A recap of a self-sufficient trip outside the parks and reserves would be great—there are so many questions about it, but not many firsthand accounts....

Hey Christelle, Well, I followed your journey from afar and in real time during my trip, but for fun, I’m settling into the group now.

Welcome to all of you, and thanks for letting us know you're here! The walk should start tonight if we don’t have too many people at the apéro 😄 Marie Jo, your new avatar is fabulous!! Have a great Sunday, everyone, and see you tonight

Well, here we go for real, folks. After 11 hours in Nairobi, it’s time to pick up our rental car: 110,000 km on the clock and farts everywhere—exactly what we needed 😂.

So, heads up—this trip’s gonna bust some stereotypes: no, Kenya isn’t just yellow savannah and non-stop sunshine.

As usual, Lulu adjusted super fast to driving on the left, especially since we picked a Sunday to cross the capital and it was smooth sailing.



And barely an hour later, we’re already blown away: coffee fields followed by rolling tea plantations as far as the eye can see! Of course, a photo stop was mandatory. I get out, wave at a woman nearby, and by the time I frame the shot, she’s already next to me... telling me all sorts of stories in her best Swahili. For now, I’ve got *hello* and *thank you* down—that’s about it—but she explains she works in the plantations and gives me a demo of plucking leaves. I tell her she’s super strong while feeling her bicep. She bursts out laughing, high-fives me, and asks for a big-smile selfie.



And just like that, we’ve made a Kenyan friend 😊!

We keep driving and stumble upon a path cutting through the tea fields, lined with blooming agapanthus the whole way.



And guess what—we find a cute little restaurant/bar at the end! Perfect timing, we’re starving. The place is packed with Kenyans dressed to the nines, fresh out of church.



The drinks were great, and even though the chicken was charred 😂, we had an amazing time... a little stared at by some curious but smiling faces: *What are those Muzungus doing here?* 🤔

Cool, here we go! 😎 .... but where to? .....and in what kind of car? (a sedan, an SUV, a 4x4?)

What follows is a road jam-packed with all sorts of trucks, but no danger here—you're driving at 50, even 30, and often 20 km/h 🚶‍♂️. We then discover the famous Rift Valley under a sea of clouds: a vast plain surrounded by mountains, with a few rare rays of sunshine breaking through.



And then, total surprise—the animal festival begins: big baboons that seem to say, "talk to the hand, my head’s messed up,"



then three zebras strolling next to a herd of cows.



And as we approach our nighttime stop, a giraffe!!

"Cool as you like, Émile," by the side of a small road, full of poise and elegance—oh, how I love these ones!



Today’s destination is near the village of Kongoni. Our host sent me the route to follow, and off we go down a track... for ages. Then we spot two warthogs on the right,



a few impalas on the left, and a herd of buffalo in the distance!!



Magical... except we managed to get lost in a national park, and if we get caught, we’re "in trouble" 😱!

So I send a WhatsApp to Francki, who replies within a minute: "Don’t move, I’m coming." After passing a guy on a bike, I get out to stretch my legs, and soon a car approaches. I’m waiting for Francki—a good-looking guy (might as well 😏)—but LOL, it’s a seventy-something very British lady who rolls down the window: "Oh, it’s really you, Christelle, but hurry, get in my car, it’s very dangerous here with the buffalo!" 😱...🤔 And what about the guy on the bike then 🤷‍♂️??

But it’s the right track, and here I am in Frankie’s (with an E!!) car—she’s basically the local "Karen Blixen" 🧐. Once settled in her carriage, her stinky little dog immediately jumps on my lap, clawing my thighs, while his buddy at my feet starts nibbling my shoelaces!



WELCOME, right 😂?

Lulu follows our vehicle down this bumpy road, and we finally arrive—pure paradise.

Some people dream of catching cod (they’ll know who they are), others of stumbling upon a field of mushrooms, but my passion in life is finding "travel treasures," and let me tell you, this gem is exceptional in the truest sense of the word 💎.

But I’ll save that for tomorrow: the discovery of an African Eden.

You're too fast, Muriel—I just posted twice in a row! 😅 We're heading to Naivasha first, and we’ve got a sedan for the first few days. After that, it’ll be the train, then a "safari combi" before finishing up on a scooter. So there’ll be something for every taste when it comes to transport! 😄

It starts strong and really sells the dream! 🙂 This Kenyan trip looks amazing. I love the baboon photo and its caption 😄

I feel like this trip is going to be so varied, and that's a good thing! 😉

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I can't get over seeing a major avenue in Nairobi... completely deserted!?? I had a hard time figuring out where Kongoni is to get my bearings, but I managed!

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and @ Solène I noticed the same thing: we went on a Sunday, early in the morning no less, and there were still way more people than expected! !

and @ Solène I noticed the same thing: we went on a Sunday, early no less, and there were way more people!

It’s common knowledge that when Christelle shows up, the locals make way! #humourofcourse

Absolutely, Alain and Bruno, I'd heard about Nairobi's monstrous traffic jams, and I felt like I'd won the lottery that day 😄. The trip back will be a bit more of an adventure! And yes, Muriel, we're next to Lake Oloidien, which is itself next to Lake Naivasha 😊

Unfortunately, not always Bruno 😄

Quick question for those using a computer: are my photos still blurry or is it just me?

are my photos still as blurry or is it okay?

No problem on my end. But in your travel journal about São Tomé, they weren’t all blurry—some were sharp and others less so

Hi Christelle,

I recognized Kiambethu Tea Farm near Limuru right away—we spent the day there with family twelve years ago! It’s such a lovely place, just like you described. Thanks for the memory.

Hey Michel You talking about the restaurant? It’s called Camellia Gardens, not far from Kiabethu Tea Farm. Such a beautiful spot, really surprising so close to the capital! 😊

Thanks Muriel. I think I’ve got the problem now 😉

So, friends, are you ready to dive into an animal "Eden"?



It starts with the dawn light caressing me while Lulu purrs 😊: uh, yeah, the opposite will be for another day 😏.

This is the moment to discover what’s hiding at the end of this 3 km track!

We’re staying in a "cottage," as they say here: kitchen, living room, fireplace, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a big terrace! Too bad we don’t have the whole crew here 😄.



Right next door is Frankie’s house—or rather, Frankie’s castle—in a pure "Anglo-Kenyan" style, the kind we’ve only seen on TV!

The garden is stunning, shaded by huge acacias (I think!) and dotted with floral touches here and there.



But I was surprised—I thought I was right by Lake Oloidien, but it’s actually quite far away.



No, here, we just have a view of a vast plain where a daily fashion show takes place:

It starts with the languid swaying of the heavy giraffes, followed by the trotting of striped zebras, and ends with the hip-swaying of white-rumped antelopes 😆.



Warthogs come to graze at night right under the terrace, Colobus monkeys play leapfrog on the roof of our shack,



and vervet monkeys jump from tree to tree, their babies clinging to their bellies.



And I apologize, but it’s impossible to describe the constant, varied sounds—sometimes impressive—that make us say all the time (especially at night 😱):

"Wait, what *is* that creature???".

Here, the only human noise we don’t hear is our own, and I won’t lie—it’s *so* good 😍.

"We're staying in a 'cottage,' as they say here: kitchen, living room, fireplace, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a huge terrace! It's a shame we don't have the whole crew with us 😅."

Let Bruno know before you leave, and he’ll show up with 10 other partiers😎—it should be fun😛

Otherwise, this place is amazing, and the different monkeys—wow!

Exactly, Marie-Jo, I think the monkeys wouldn’t appreciate that horde of "old" karaoke singers either 😄

It starts with the dawn’s glow caressing me while Lulu purrs 🥰: uh yeah, the reverse will be for another day 🤪.

It’s getting seriously wild out here!

It starts with the languid swaying of the heavy giraffes, followed by the trotting of striped zebras, and ends with the hip-swaying of white-rumped antelopes 💃.

Are giraffes also dealing with obesity here?

Exactly Marie-Jo, I think the monkeys wouldn’t appreciate that horde of "old" karaoke singers either 😄

And there’s no jacuzzi either. 😎

Hi, I'm heading off, and I really like this place I didn't know about!

Hi Christelle, This is a really fascinating start to your travel journal, and it’s even more interesting since we’ve planned to visit in January. I’ll be following the rest of your story very closely. Jacques

Welcome Didier! 😊

Well, Jacques, you’ll be able to take notes now 😄. For the addresses, I’m happy to share them in a PM (because those "forum lurkers" who just scoop up tips without ever contributing—I don’t like that, nah 😜).

Now, it's time to head out for a ride, as usual, wherever the wind takes us.

We find the trail again with antelopes to the right, zebras to the left... and Cricri sitting on the car door, hair in the wind, admiring the show 🤩



Back on the tarmac, lots of 4x4s are heading toward the local attraction, Hells Gate National Park 🤔. We were hesitating about going, but the choice was quickly made: with our beloved but tired Toyota, we figured we’d fit in better somewhere that suits us more (and besides, we have the animals all to ourselves in the mornings and evenings 😜).

So we stop to check out one of the rare public "beaches" on Lake Naivasha (the lake’s shores are mostly taken over by fancy hotels!).

Well, fancy is definitely not the word here 😂.

Not a single fellow tourist in sight, a muddy setting, makeshift stalls, a tiny fish market, and then... beautiful blue and white boats,



pelicans (lots of them), marabous (everywhere), a few fishermen, and plenty of locals responding to our "Jambos."



Well, even if there’s no "beach" to speak of, it still looks promising 😊.

We settle into Sharon’s bistro to figure out what’s next, and Sammy comes to meet us: 32 years old, 3 kids under 10, and a real talent for reeling in tourists—all smiles and jokes 👏🤹.

So off we go, drifting along the water for a tour of Crescent Island and the continuation of the animal "festival": fishing eagles (everywhere),



waterbucks (lots of them)



and hippos in deep sleep (in a pretty surprising setting, I’ll admit 😂).



We’ll wrap up with a friendly drink at Sharon’s bar, who’ll be thrilled to give me a dance lesson 💃🕺. Luckily for me, embarrassment isn’t fatal, and videos don’t make it online 🤹🤸.

1 p.m., time to grab a bite.

The marabous are hustling for customers,



hygiene standards leave a bit to be desired 💃,



but the "inner tube" tablecloth ends up hosting an excellent fish,



surrounded by a truly cheerful atmosphere.



And, truth be told, for us, that’s what matters most 😊

sanitary standards leave a bit to be desired 😅

And no stomach issues afterward either?

For sure, it’s far from those polished tourist spots... but you’re right in the heart of Kenyan life, and that’s awesome! 😉

"We'll wrap up with a friendly drink at Sharon's bar, where she'll be thrilled to give me a dance lesson 🥱🩰. Lucky for me, embarrassment isn't fatal and videos don't go viral here 🤦‍♀️🤦‍♂️"

We could start our own Kenyan and Assamese dance duo 💃👩🏾‍🤝‍👨🏼👩🏽

"And no intestinal issues afterward either?"

Not a single one, Muriel 😄. We must be lucky because in 30 years of traveling and eating pretty much anywhere (as long as it's cooked), we've never had any major "disasters"—except once in the Philippines, where I was violently sick after eating at a very pretty touristy restaurant 🤢. Since then, I’ve learned that when it comes to restaurants, appearances can be deceiving 😄. Have a great day

Sure it won’t be "all sunshine and roses," Marie Jo 😄

An African trip that focuses more on the people and their daily lives (even briefly) and showcases more landscapes than animals—that really appeals to me... To be continued, then 🙂

One thing I love about Christelle’s travel journals, no matter where she goes:

You always swing between "meet-ups in unknown lands," "Koh Lanta," and "Fear Factor"! 🤪

I don’t usually worry about food, but nope, I’m not going there... 🏴‍☠️ 🤪

Could you share Frankie’s house coordinates, please? In a PM if possible?

A constant I love in Christelle's Travel Journals, no matter where she goes:

It always swings between "meet-up in unknown lands," "Koh Lanta," and "Fear Factor!"

Dying of laughter, Bruno—nice digital illusion: I’d last 2 days on Koh Lanta and just one on Fear Factor 😂 But I admit I’d love to head off to Unknown Lands, yeah. If you know Laury Thilleman, don’t hesitate to mention me to her 🤩

Day three in paradise, but even here, the schedule isn't always perfect!

Today's challenge: finding Kenyan Shillings and a train ticket to Mombasa since we're returning the car in 2 days.

After a 1-hour drive, a bank made us happy without any issues. However, when it came to train tickets, we came back empty-handed 🤷‍♂️.

Yesterday, Sammy offered to help: "Yeah, yeah, I know where to go." So we picked him up at the "beach" and off we went to Naivasha.

He pointed us to a tiny house by a miserable-looking, seemingly abandoned railway track: "Uhhh, what are we doing here, Sammy?" "Well, this is the station to buy train tickets," he said. We've seen small stations before, but this one really takes the cake for cuteness!

Sammy and the stationmaster family

The problem was, we couldn't ask for more: the lady said it wasn't possible to buy a train ticket there. And then, horror of horrors, we heard what we hear back home: "You have to go online" 😱😭. Of course, we'd already tried that... unfortunately without success because it's *so* complicated!

Sammy then took us on a mini tour of the town looking for a "travel agent," but when we realized he had no idea where to go, we decided to head back.

He was a bit down for not being able to help, but he quickly cheered up when we slipped him a little bill (yes, yes, we're dream "suckers," but at least today Sammy will have something to eat 😅!).

Oh well, no train for us—time for a gastronomic leap with our restaurant from yesterday 😋. Today, we're trying another local immersion by checking out the "Lake Naivasha Country Club" to see what a "country club" is like because, well, we don’t know! The security guard is a bit sluggish,



but as usual, the setting is magical: an old, large wooden building, a beautiful restaurant with a vintage bar, a stunning view of the hippos,



century-old trees over a terrace on the green,



and guess what? Animals everywhere!



Including a cute vervet monkey sticking its tongue out while showing off its *magnificent* Caribbean-blue, um, "assets" (yes, guys, you’re totally jealous 🙈)!

But even its, uh, *attributes* on the neighboring table didn’t kill our appetite 😂 (Bruno, you loving this meal 😅?).



It took us two days to realize that the whole region is classified as a "nature reserve," with wild animals roaming *everywhere*, all the time. But it’s a *very* well-kept secret (and I really hope you appreciate how lucky you are 😉).

Confirmation came at the end of the day when we returned to our lodging: still dozens of impalas, zebras, warthogs, buffaloes, and all kinds of birds. And as we were driving slowly, Lulu let out a big *OH MY GOD*—while slamming the brakes!! To his right, just a few steps from the car, *THE* giraffe, maybe 5 meters tall.



By the looks of it, even a *gentleman* giraffe 😏!

We saw plenty more this morning, but usually, they’re pretty far away.



If I dared, I’d say this one was waiting for us!!

So we turned off the engine, I sat on the car door, and we had a real face-to-face moment 🧍‍♀️.

It ate, looked at us, ate some more, looked at us again, then turned to face us and took a few steps. Okay, message received—time to get out of there 😱🚶‍♂️!

Perfect timing, too, because it was just the moment to admire the sunset, where Noah’s Ark seemed to have landed.

but even their attributes left on the next table didn’t kill our appetite 😄 (and Bruno, you’re loving this, right? 😜?)

Wait, are they *really* that blue in person?

This travel journal of Christelle’s is quite the festival I pick up reading again, and after the baboon’s c.l., I stumble on the other monkey’s b.s. For a second, I thought I’d wandered into the wrong forum

You’re never bored here!