Traveling in Italy: how to avoid ZTL traps in Milan, Como, and elsewhere?

Hi there,

This year, we booked a rental in Colonno, Italy, by Lake Como.

Everything was going well until my wife wanted to see Milan... Out of 11 days, why not spend a day there, even though I’m not really a "city" person? Then I discovered ZTLs (Zona a Traffico Limitato)...

A 90 € fine if you’re unlucky enough to drive into one, and another 90 € if you drive out... While I was looking for info on where to park without risking a fine in Milan (any tips?), I found out that Como also has a ZTL. (Any parking advice there too?)

My question is: is there a map showing all the cities with ZTLs? Because if it means getting hit with hundreds of euros in fines 9 months later... 😕

The more I look for info, the more I come across unsettling stories... Like people who pass a ZTL sign, turn around immediately, and still get hit with two 90 € fines in 3 minutes... I don’t want to ruin the vacation over a small mistake...

Thanks in advance,

Hi there,

Cars are a real hassle in Italian cities. I’d **strongly** advise against driving to Milan. Trains work great in Italy and are super cheap. Leave your car near San Giovanni station in Como (outside the ZTL) and take the train. Trains run frequently, are direct, and for just **5 € per person**, you’ll be in Milano Centrale in under an hour.

Check out the Trenord website. And this guide on ZTLs. For ZTL info in Como, click here.

Enjoy your Italian trip! !

Oh yeah, I checked out your link—super cheap! We’ll definitely go by train.

For the train, is it better to book in advance?

So for the day in Como, same thing—I guess it’s better to park at the station, the center isn’t far on foot. 🙂 Unless the parking costs an arm and a leg?! Or there’s no space around?!

Thanks for the reply.

Oh yeah, I checked your link—super cheap! We’ll definitely go by train.

For the train, is it better to book in advance?

So for the day in Como, same thing—I guess it’s best to park at the station since the center’s not far on foot. 🙂 Unless parking costs an arm and a leg?! Or there’s no space around?!

Thanks for the reply.

Quoting myself here, but are there any buses that go from Colonno to Como train station? A website for the buses?

Worst case, I’ll ask my Airbnb host.

For the train, is it better to book in advance?

No, it’s not necessary. Milan is huge. In one day, you’ll barely have time to see the Duomo and its surroundings, nothing more. For the terraces at the Duomo, it’s best to book ahead.

https://www.duomomilano.it/en/

There are websites that show the location of ZTLs by city. I did this for La Spezia in this link after our trip to the Cinque Terre. You can also set Waze to avoid entering ZTLs. It’s usually up to date.

I’ve never been to Milan by car, but I travel a lot in Italy, especially the Tuscan countryside, and there are ZTLs everywhere—even in touristy villages. The historic centers have very narrow streets, and traffic is restricted to residents. When you see the places, it makes sense. The signs for ZTLs are very visible (a red circle on a white background), but the risk is getting distracted by following a local if you don’t have an up-to-date GPS. There are parking lots everywhere, usually paid, outside the ZTLs.

So, pay close attention even if you’re not in a big city, but don’t worry too much. Most people who get caught are those who don’t know ZTLs exist—and there are plenty of travelers who explore without researching the country. Have a great trip!

Thanks to both of you;

I’ll check that out—I don’t have Waze since I don’t have a GPS or a phone...

A good old piece of paper with the departmental road numbers (kilometers/exit) noted in advance for each destination, plus the streets for specific spots (and a map just in case...). So far, I’ve never had any issues.

I was mostly worried that ZTLs/radar would start/flash without any way to avoid them (like on a straight road).

ZTLs aren’t always easy to spot, and it’s even harder to understand how they work since the signs are only in Italian.

Some zones are only allowed at certain times...

The best thing is to avoid all city centers and, for larger urban areas, look for park-and-ride lots.

A quick tram, metro, or train ride saves a lot of stress—especially since Italians have a somewhat unique driving style, with lots of flashing headlights, tailgating, and little respect for speed limits or parking rules.

I also never book accommodations inside a ZTL. No desire to deal with paperwork hassles.

I’ve also seen LEZs (Low Emission Zones) around. Didn’t really understand the signs either, but since my vehicle is Euro 1, I didn’t look into it further.

Driving in Europe is getting complicated...

ZTL/camera starts/flashes before you can avoid it (like a straight line).

Like 20 Italians behind you who are impatiently honking and blocking you, forcing you into a Restricted Traffic Zone...

Back from my trip,

Yeah, there are quite a few ZTLs even in small villages, but honestly, they’re really just narrow cobbled streets where even in France, you wouldn’t legally consider driving.

Long story short, it was 0 stress.

On the other hand, Italian driving—well, in the Aosta region, I didn’t notice anything unusual, but here... The Italians around Como don’t drive on the right! They don’t drive on the left either. No, they prefer driving right down the middle! Honking for no reason, hating cyclists and pedestrians because they love to buzz them without using turn signals. Crosswalks? They exist visually, but in reality, not at all... Italians don’t see the sides. They just stare straight ahead, so you step out, and they only notice you when you’re right in front of their hood!

The bartender in my village where I was staying—I asked him if it was accident-prone. He showed me his leg (his terrace was right across the street): 3 fractures—ankle, tibia—from being hit.

But otherwise, it’s great! Even the driving, once you understand and adapt...