Kattegat Tour and Norway’s Majestic Fjords – 32 Days (Denmark, Sweden, Norway) (page 1 of 3)

Kattegat isn’t just the name of the village in the TV series *Vikings*—it’s also the stretch of water separating Denmark from Sweden... the sea, basically! And further north, you’ve got Norway and its fjords! Originally, I’d planned to just do a loop around Kattegat, with the *Under* restaurant in Lindesnes as our anniversary treat... but along the way, we thought, why not "push" a little further north, keeping an eye on the budget since we’d chosen to travel by car in June 2025 through Scandinavia.

Why by car when most travelers opt for a camper van, while others prefer the comfort of cruises? Well, because we don’t own a camper van, renting one is pricey, and then you’ve got to add fuel costs (those things guzzle gas!), ferry fees, and other "tolls." All things considered, we went for mostly rentals—especially since there were four of us at the start of the trip. We spent the first week in Denmark with our daughter and son-in-law. Then they flew back to Belgium, and we continued our adventure as a couple. For accommodation, we mainly booked Airbnb apartments, which helped keep costs down and, most importantly, let us prepare our own meals (diet, diet!). In this travel journal, you’ll discover (or rediscover, for those who followed my older ones) our unbridled love for theme parks, museums, unique experiences, and—especially in Denmark—Legos! Unfortunately, we didn’t do any hikes this year because the unpredictable weather had made the trails slippery, and since I’d already taken three tumbles during the trip, I didn’t want to risk another! In the end, we traveled for 32 days, covered 6,200 km, and most importantly, discovered the charming country of Denmark, marveled at Norway’s breathtaking fjords—all without suffering the heatwave that hit France and Belgium that June! If you’ve got any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

Day 1 - Sunday, June 1st - 742 km To get to Scandinavia, there are some must-pass spots, especially Germany. We decided to stop north of Hamburg, in Neumünster. The owners of the little red cabin were waiting for us. The place was peaceful and charming.

Day 2 - Monday, June 2nd - 267 km A 100% Viking day! Around 11:30 AM, we reached the Viking Center in Ribe, Denmark. The village is charming, and the sun was with us. We visited the old houses, including the longhouse, which was the nerve center of a Viking village. There’s also a small chapel by a pond. With this beautiful weather, exploring the site was very pleasant. Some "Vikings" happily posed for photos.



During the visit, we stopped at the village café to taste Danish cuisine for the first time—mostly fresh salads, which suited us perfectly. This Viking Center is a great introduction to Viking life and what we’ll get to discover later.



After the visit, we headed to Jelling, about an hour away. That’s where the famous runestones are. What’s impressive about Jelling is how the Danes managed to build such an important museum around two rocks—but not just any rocks!



The Jelling stones are world-famous. In fact, these two runestones have been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1994. Both are linked to the Viking royal couple, Gorm the Old and Thyra. The smaller one was raised by the king in honor of his wife—a rare occurrence, as traditionally only men received such an honor! The inscription reads: "Gorm made this for Thyra, his wife, Denmark’s pride." This phrase is doubly important historically because the word *Denmark* is mentioned for the first time, and it’s from King Gorm that we know the continuous lineage of Danish kings. On the second stone, likely raised in 965, it’s written: "King Harald had these stones made in honor of his father, Gorm, and his mother, Thyra. King Harald, who won Denmark and Norway and made the Danes Christian." Thus, Gorm’s son expanded his father’s territory and introduced Christianity (this stone features the oldest representation of Christ in Scandinavia). The top of the stone is exactly equidistant from the tops of the two royal burial mounds. After this tribute, Harald moved his capital to the new center of his kingdom, Roskilde. As for this granite stone, it was likely polychrome originally. A brightly painted replica, based on a historian’s hypotheses, is displayed in the new Jelling museum.

Now let’s see how clever the Danes are at making their museum truly engaging, educational, and fun...







We then checked into our rental space for two nights. It’s an apartment on the ground floor of a green house in the countryside, not far from Billund and close to the airport. So we had a great view of planes taking off—it didn’t bother us at all!

(Continuation of the travel journal)

Day 3 - Tuesday, June 3 - 100% Lego Day! The sun is out—it’s going to be a beautiful day! It’s 10 AM, and we’re patiently waiting for Legoland to open. As soon as we step in, we notice how well-kept the park’s vegetation is. We’re already impressed by the giant Lego constructions.



The attractions are pretty classic for a theme park—roller coasters, little boats, and a pirate ride that reminds us of a very famous park...

There’s also a haunted house that’s not really scary and a little train that runs through the park.

Of course, everything is made of Lego, and there’s even an aquarium with Lego underwater!

But the most impressive part is the miniature cityscapes with incredible details in every construction—complete with moving trains, boats, locks, and more...



Here, everything is Lego—nothing but Lego—and the attention to detail is amazing. Check out this bowl for dogs to drink from near the restrooms. Yes, leashed dogs are allowed here!

Even the fries at the family buffet are "Lego-style"! It’s such a fun park—time flies by!

Day 4 - Wednesday, June 4 - 210 km The weather’s pretty gloomy this morning, but that doesn’t really matter because we’re spending most of the day in the Lego House, the LEGO House.

As soon as we step into the hall, we’re already in "immersion" mode. A lovely lady helps us scan our QR codes, which generate wristbands we’ll wear to access the experiences in this special place...



We head straight to the basement, where the LEGO museum is located, showcasing the history of this little brick and its creator, Ole Kirk Christiansen.



The history of LEGO dates back to 1932, when Ole Kirk Christiansen, a Danish carpenter, founded a small company in Billund, Denmark. Initially, the company focused on making wooden toys. The name LEGO is a contraction of the Danish words « leg godt », which mean "play well." And this philosophy of healthy play would become the cornerstone of the company. The first LEGO toys were mainly wooden cars, trucks, and animals, designed to entertain children of the time. The real turning point in LEGO’s history came in 1949 with the introduction of an interlocking plastic LEGO brick. This brick, known as the "automatic binding brick," opened the door to an infinite world of building possibilities. In 1958, the design of the modern LEGO brick was finalized with the addition of the inner tube, which allows for a stronger connection with other bricks. Since then, LEGO bricks have been compatible with each other, regardless of age or model. This innovation allowed children to create and customize their own constructions, paving the way for limitless creativity. The famous LEGO brick, with its studs and tubes, became the brand’s emblem and, above all, the foundation of all LEGO constructions. The 1950s and 1960s saw a rapid rise in LEGO’s popularity. The company continued to innovate by introducing new construction sets and themes. One of the first successful ranges was the LEGO SYSTEM series, which allowed for building cities and structures. However, it was in 1978 that LEGO launched the famous LEGO figurine, called the "minifig." This little articulated character opened up new possibilities for play and creative expression for children.

source here

I find it really moving to see the very first LEGO sets I was given in the 60s/70s. There are also computers available to look up the references of the LEGO sets we had and played with as kids, and we can save all that info using our QR code wristband... Except I threw the wristband away when we left, and since I no longer have the QR code, I couldn’t retrieve any of it once I got home :'(





Next, we move up to the upper floors, where there are giant constructions like the dinosaur room, but the most impressive thing is the huge tree standing in the middle of the staircase.



We then explore rooms where we get to experiment with different types of LEGO. Forget our age for a moment—let’s sit around a table and let the magic and imagination take over... What a blast!



Next, we head to the LEGO Mini Chef restaurant. It’s a pretty special place where you order your meal using... LEGO bricks. A video shows little LEGO chef figurines preparing our food, and then two robots deliver our boxes.





We wander back through the twists and turns of the house to try out the experiences we haven’t tested yet, then finish up in the shop, where there are still more surprises. Here, you can build custom minifigures, which we don’t pass up the chance to do.



But it’s time to head to our accommodation for the night in Stenlille. To get there, we have to cross the island Funen (Fyn), located in the center of the country, and take the Great Belt Bridge, which connects us to Zealand, the island where the capital, Copenhagen, is located.



We arrive in a forested area where Suzanne is waiting to give us the keys to a house. The place is really peaceful, and in the evening, we spot some deer (or maybe roe deer) crossing the garden!

But where’s the forum spirit from the days when members actually read travel journals and even asked questions sometimes!... I’m wondering if it’s even worth continuing because I feel a bit alone in this interstellar void! 🙁😕🤪

Hello Cendryon,

What a pleasure to rediscover your beautiful writing! I’d followed your posts before, and you really inspired me during your travels in the American West.

With retirement approaching, my husband and I are planning an extensive tour of Scandinavia. We already know Norway a little but not Denmark at all (except for a short week in Copenhagen at Christmas a few years ago). Your story really interests me!

However, after this long period of VoyageForum being inaccessible due to Covid, I’m not sure if members have returned... that might explain the lack of reactions.

Looking forward to the rest of your story! Armelle

Good evening, No, no, you're not alone. Even silently, I'm reading you with interest. Best regards

Thanks for your message and FrançoiseVec’s too. So, I’ll continue...

Day 5 - Thursday, June 5 - 82.7 km Today we’re heading to the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde, about 40 minutes from our B&B. We arrive right at opening, but since we’ve booked a boat tour starting at 11:30, we have time to explore the museum first.

There are plenty of boats in the small harbor, but a modern museum has been built specifically to house authentic Viking shipwrecks recovered from the seabed. To protect Roskilde, Vikings used to sink old ships to block enemy vessels from advancing into the fjord. Not much remains of these ships, and it took years to piece together these giant puzzles.

But now it’s time for us to board a Viking ship. All the boats in this harbor are replicas of ancient Viking vessels. Our guide is a very energetic woman who explains how to row. After a few maneuvers, we leave the harbor and sail into the fjord. Rowing with a dozen people on board doesn’t require superhuman effort! We stow the oars, and our captain raises the sail, giving us a chance to relax. The trip isn’t very long but is really enjoyable.

Back on land, we head to the Knarr café to enjoy some delicious salads on the terrace since the weather’s nice. Then we continue exploring the museum, including the shipbuilding workshop. Since we’re parked near the city center and the weather’s pleasant, we take the opportunity to walk to Roskilde Cathedral, where Denmark’s kings are buried. Some of the tombs are impressive...



Now it’s time to head to the Danish capital. Copenhagen is only 40 minutes from Roskilde. We park our vehicle in a pre-booked parking lot for 4 days. It’s expensive, but we don’t have another option since our apartment is on a pedestrian street in the heart of the city’s liveliest district—Nyhavn. The apartment matches its Airbnb description. It’s on the 2nd floor of a very old yellow house, with creaky, uneven floors that add to the charm of this space right in the middle of the city’s most iconic quay. See the yellow house in the center of the photo? The apartment occupies the 6 windows on the 2nd floor...



The view from our windows is stunning—we’re right in the heart of this charming capital!



To be continued...

(Continued)

Day 6 - Friday, June 6 If there’s one thing you can’t control in these Northern countries, it’s the weather—and today, of course, it’s raining. And wouldn’t you know it, it’s the exact day I booked a guided bike tour in Dutch (for my husband and the kids) through the streets of Copenhagen. We drag ourselves to the bike rental shop without much enthusiasm. After a quick introduction with our guide—a Dutch woman who’s lived in Copenhagen for a year—we realize the bikes have coaster brakes, which isn’t exactly intuitive if you’re not used to them. At first, we try to keep up with the group, but Caroline struggles with the coaster brake—her bike keeps locking up, and she can’t move forward. By the time we reach City Hall, in the rain, of course, we can’t even hear what the guide is explaining.

So we decide to ditch the group and go at our own pace. A little further on, near Nyhavn, I lose track of the bike lane and my bike skids on a nasty curb! I wipe out in the gravel and mud... 🏴‍☠️ We decide to head to a nearby apartment so I can change, but that’s the last straw for Caroline—she’s had enough and is in no mood to continue. I manage to convince her to at least make it to the Little Mermaid. When we arrive at what’s usually a super touristy spot, there’s hardly anyone around (we’d later realize this was pretty unusual). So we have the Little Mermaid all to ourselves... in the rain!



After that, we decide to return the bikes to the shop. We’d originally planned to keep them all day, but biking in Copenhagen isn’t as easy as it seems. I’ve read so much about it being the capital of cycling, how everything’s designed for bikes—okay, sure, there are plenty of bike lanes, but there are also hordes of cyclists speeding by, yelling at you when you, the poor tourist, aren’t going fast enough or are trying to figure out where to go. Spotting the bike lane crossings, especially at intersections, isn’t always straightforward. No, biking in Copenhagen isn’t always a pleasure—and I won’t even get started on when it’s raining! I’d spotted a well-rated bistro nearby. We grab a plate of assorted small, tasty bites, including a smørrebrød.

Smørrebrød is a traditional Danish dish—a buttered slice of rye bread topped with various ingredients. It’s versatile, working as a quick lunch or a more elaborate, colorful, and aesthetic meal. In short, it’s an open-faced sandwich with stuff on top! Here’s a photo of the window of a shop on Strøget that only sells smørrebrød... and it’s not cheap!

Next, we take public transport—the train—to the Carlsberg Brewery. The tour starts with a beer tasting, which is usually saved for the end of a visit... but hey, no complaints here! The museum is well done, with plenty of interactive exhibits.

The basement houses a collection of thousands of beer bottles from all over the world—it’s impressive! Compared to this, the beer wall in Bruges and the Hop Museum in Poperinge can "take a hike"!

We wrap up the visit at the café, a cozy and welcoming spot. When we head back toward central Copenhagen, the sun’s out again. We wander around City Hall, finally getting a proper look at what we’d barely noticed in the morning rain!

There’s the Dragon Fountain in the square, and off to the side, a strange column topped with two figures.

They look like Vikings! Actually, they’re lur players, and here’s what I found out about them: "Cast in bronze by Siegfried Wagner between 1911 and 1914, they depict two lur players (a Bronze Age instrument usually played in pairs) atop a 20-meter-high column (designed by Anton Rosen). The originals are on display at the National Museum. It’s said their sound can be heard when a virgin passes by." Then we take Strøget, the city’s busiest shopping street, back to our apartment in Nyhavn. With the sun out again, the terraces are packed! ...

(To be continued)

Good evening Cendryon, What a pleasure to read you again. I’ll be following your travel journal closely since Denmark and Norway are really tempting me. Your previous journals inspired me a lot when planning my trips to the American West and Quebec. Have a great evening

Thanks! We really enjoyed discovering Denmark, this small country that doesn’t always get the attention it deserves compared to other Scandinavian countries. In fact, after talking to some Norwegians, they don’t even consider Denmark a true Scandinavian country because it’s connected to Germany via Jutland. But we found more of a Dutch serenity than German vibes in the gentle Danish countryside. Must be because of the sea...

Hi Cendryon,

I never imagined you could spend 2 days at the Lego park. Is there a lot to do there, or is it just really crowded?

What a trooper, exploring Copenhagen in the rain by bike! I remember their "parking" where bikes are stacked in metal cages. Did you see any?

Hello Cendryon,

I couldn’t imagine spending 2 days at the Lego park. Is there a lot to do there, or is it just really crowded?

Well, we spent just one day at the LEGOLAND park, which is located on the outskirts of Billund. It wasn’t too crowded. One day is enough to see everything.

However, there’s a second site—it’s not a park, it’s the LEGO HOUSE right in the center of Billund. It’s amazing, and we spent almost a full day there.

How brave of you to explore Copenhagen in the rain by bike! I remember their "parking" where bikes are stacked in metal cages. Did you see any?

No, didn’t see any, and to repeat myself, I still think that even without the rain, biking in Copenhagen as a tourist isn’t great!

Day 7 – Saturday, June 7

This morning, a somewhat shy sun returned to Copenhagen. Since we’re in Nyhavn, we take the opportunity to go on a boat tour. It’s a bit like in Bruges, except the boats are much wider, and we have headphones to hear the commentary in our language. The environment is also very different since Copenhagen is made up of both very modern buildings and older ones.



The boat first takes us to the entrance of the harbor, where the Little Mermaid is located. We see her from quite a distance, but it’s enough to notice the crowd and the long line for photos—yesterday, we had the place to ourselves!



Next, we pass by the Royal Palace and the Marmorkirken (or Frederiks Kirke), an 18th-century Lutheran church with the largest dome in Scandinavia and buildings shaped like Toblerones!



Along the canal banks, there are many boats, some of which serve as homes, just like in Amsterdam. We catch a quick glimpse of the spire of St. Saviour’s Church, which twists toward the sky like a drill bit! The boat circles the island where Christiansborg Castle is located, home to the Danish Parliament—great views from all angles, just like in the series *Borgen*. This building was the main residence of Danish kings until 1794. Watch your head—the bridges are very low! Back to Nyhavn. At the end of this very photogenic little harbor is Kongens Nytorv square, where you’ll find the Royal Theatre, the Hotel d’Angleterre, and... the French Embassy!



City Hall Square is much livelier than yesterday under the rain. A stage has been set up, and it’s Brazilian fiesta time! Now, let’s head into the famous Tivoli Gardens. Actually, it’s a very old amusement park, said to be the oldest in the world. Here’s what Wikipedia says about it: "Tivoli Gardens is one of the major attractions in central Copenhagen today. It’s a park featuring many rides (roller coasters, various trains), as well as restaurants, exhibitions, concerts, and pantomimes. It’s often considered the world’s first theme park." The park is beautifully flowered and well-maintained. Its hotel looks like an Indian palace in the style of the Taj Mahal.



While the kids go on some "thrilling" rides, Patrick and I catch a concert (and take a little nap, let’s be honest). We then opt for some more "chill" attractions since there are also old-fashioned fairground rides like this "galoppen":



There are plenty of restaurants in the park, and we grab a light dinner at Søcafeen while waiting for nightfall and the illuminations. They say Tivoli is even more beautiful at night with all these lights—and they’re not wrong!









(To be continued)

(Continued) Day 8 – Saturday, June 8

We don’t have a set plan for this last day with Caroline and Cederic. However, this morning, the young ones decide to join us at the small Rosenborg Castle. Rosenborg Slot (Castle of the Rose):

From 1606 to 1624, Christian IV had this summer residence built on the outskirts of the city, where he felt cramped, based on his own sketches. Through expansions, this Dutch Renaissance-style castle, which he loved, became his favorite residence, named Rosenborg in honor of his second wife, Kirsten Munk, whose coat of arms featured three roses. He died here in 1648. Starting in 1710, Rosenborg was abandoned, as Frederik IV found it too small. As a result, the interiors, rarely inhabited, were well preserved and remained practically unchanged. Since 1658, the castle has housed the crown treasury (jewels and regalia) and became a museum in 1833.

You won’t see any photos of the castle because, since we’re limited in the number of images per post, I’d rather save them for later...

Unfortunately, I didn’t book a visit, and there are no available time slots before the afternoon. Still, let’s go say hello to Queen Caroline, who stands nearby:

The statue of Queen Caroline-Amalie (1796–1881) stands amidst the roses of the Rose Garden, a garden at Rosenborg Slot. Caroline-Amalie was a Danish princess who, as the second wife of Christian VIII, became Queen consort of Denmark from 1839 to 1848. Her sculpture is a work by Vilhelm Bissen and Hans Jørgen Holm.

Too bad about the castle visit—we’ll watch the changing of the guard at the royal palace instead. There’s already a huge crowd. The soldiers are a bit like those at Buckingham Palace, but in blue and black. After the changing of the guard, which was hard to see due to the crowd, the rain, and all the umbrellas, we grab a quick bite back at the apartment before going our separate ways. The young ones will go shopping and hit the terraces, while Patrick and I head to the fine arts museum. I really wanted to see the room dedicated to Cornelis Norbertus Gysbrechts! And here we are. This room is entirely devoted to this Flemish painter, active in the second half of the 17th century, specializing in still lifes and trompe-l'œil.

A free master of the Guild of Saint Luke in Antwerp in 1659, Cornelis Norbertus Gysbrechts (1630–1675~) was a court painter to King Christian V of Denmark in Copenhagen between 1670 and 1672. It was in this city that he seems to have spent much of his career. As the director of an auction house, he sold many of his paintings, marked by his talent for trompe-l'œil. His works reflect the Baroque taste for illusion, theater, and reflections on vanity and the limits of pictorial representation. Some of his paintings also serve as memento mori, reminding us of the fleeting nature of things. Gysbrechts is relatively unknown to the general public but highly appreciated in art history circles, particularly for his visual reflections on painting itself. His work saw a resurgence of interest in the 20th century, especially in studies on illusion and representation.

As soon as you enter the room, you’re immediately drawn to this work: "Trompe-l'œil with Easel and Painting." This famous painting shows an easel with an unfinished canvas, along with brushes, a rag, etc., creating a mise en abyme and a playful take on the nature of art.



The other works on display feature "collages" and still lifes with a multitude of objects and notes. I could happily stay here longer, but it would take a lot of time to examine even one of these works in detail—there are so many messages to decipher...



The museum is vast, giving pride of place to Danish painters, which makes sense. Those from the 19th century produced particularly beautiful works that deserve to be discovered or rediscovered. While French Impressionists from the 19th century gained recognition in Europe during the 20th century, it overshadowed the artistic vitality of other countries like the United States or Scandinavia. It’s precisely some of these light-filled, child-filled, and life-filled works that caught my attention, like this painting, "Children Playing, Enghave Square" by Peter Hansen, painted in 1908. This work belongs to the period when Hansen was interested in geometry and simultaneous perspective, moving away from the central perspective of the Renaissance.



In Denmark, people often talk about the Skagen painters, a group of artists based in the northernmost town in the country, in Jutland. I also notice some paintings by these artists, like those by Peder Severin Krøyer. Here’s a summer scene with two children bathing at Skagen:



While the Skagen painters capture the joys of the beach, they don’t forget the harshness of fishing life, as shown in this painting by Michael Peter Ancher:



Further on, I notice this painting by Erik Ludvig Henningsen, titled "The Evicted," which reminds us that the 19th century was also the era of industrialization, with its accompanying poverty. I later learn that this painter is best known for his social realist paintings depicting poor and disadvantaged groups in the 1880s and 1890s.



Note the beautiful harmony between sculptures and paintings...





But to stay on the same era and subject, it’s this work that really "hits me hard." It’s called "Workers Returning Home" (1913).



This is an iconic work by the Norwegian painter Edvard Munch. Munch was an Expressionist painter. Expressionist art sought to express emotions and symbols rather than reality. Paintings were often exaggerated or distorted, and colors were chosen to convey a feeling. This painting illustrates the daily life of workers, capturing their fatigue and loneliness after a long day’s work. Munch uses dark colors and stylized forms to express anguish and melancholy, hallmarks of his style. The almost ghostly silhouettes of the workers evoke an atmosphere of despair and alienation. Through this work, Munch depicts not only the human condition but also the social struggles of his time, resonating with universal themes of isolation and the search for meaning. The other Munch paintings in this museum definitely convince me to visit the museum dedicated to him in Oslo later. Below, the evening conversation.



Of course, there are others, like the works of another Danish Expressionist painter, Jens Ferdinand Willumsen, but I can’t show them all.

Enriched by all these discoveries, we head back to meet the kids. Tonight, we’re celebrating our wedding anniversary and the end of the vacation for our children, who are flying back to Belgium tomorrow. We have a very pleasant meal at the restaurant HOST in Copenhagen, with a great quality-to-price ratio for Denmark.

Thanks for all the sharing! You’ve had some really packed and discovery-filled days. I’m jotting down that beautiful museum. In the end, it feels like there are just as many indoor activities as outdoor ones in Copenhagen. See you for the next part! 🙂

...In the end, I get the feeling there are just as many indoor activities as outdoor ones in Copenhagen.

But yeah, you're right—it *is* a northern country, so the weather isn't always great. Danes are *really* good at museums, and when I say *really* good, I mean they know how to make even the smallest "thing" engaging. Their museums are full of surprises! You’ll see what I mean if you keep up with my posts... 😉

Thanks so much for sharing this trip, Muriel! 😊

Before I continue, I’ll share a few thoughts and tips about Copenhagen. I found the city friendly and welcoming—perfect for a weekend getaway.

ACCOMMODATION: I chose a very central apartment right on Nyhavn, which was quite expensive at 263 € per night on Airbnb. Still, it was cheaper than booking two hotel rooms in the city center, and it gave us the option to cook some of our meals—a feature we took full advantage of. The place was perfect: though it was in an old building with creaky, uneven floors, it was tastefully furnished and very functional. Located on the 2nd floor of the yellow house below:



View from the living room:





MEALS: We tried a few cafés and restaurants, but the prices seemed similar to Belgium’s—more expensive than in France! I’d pre-selected some cozy spots for indoor dining in case it rained. Personally, I found the reputation of the famous *smørrebrød* (the open-faced sandwiches all the guides rave about) a bit overrated—they’re pricey for what you get. We ended up opting for "plates" (like English-style sharing platters), which were slightly more expensive but much more filling. Some cafés offer them, while touristy restaurants often charge way too much. A tip: try to pick out a few affordable restaurants and cafés before you arrive. Here are the ones we tried:

Café KATZ, near the parliament, with a lovely terrace. 138 € for 4. Café O12 near City Hall—very trendy! 152 € for 4. If our bike tour had gone well, I’d planned to go to MADGLAD café, which would’ve definitely surprised my group! A "plate" SOCAFEE in Tivoli: 159 € for 4 (though one of the cheaper options in Tivoli). "A plate"

For a special occasion: Copenhagen is home to some of the world’s best restaurants, like NOMA (ranked #1 multiple times) and the famous ALCHEMIST by iconic chef Rasmus Munk. Unfortunately, our budget didn’t stretch to dining there as a group of four. So, to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary with the kids, we chose one of Copenhagen’s top mid-range gastronomic restaurants—HOST—which offers incredible value. Their entrée-plat-dessert menu is 400 DKK, but with surprise courses in between, you actually get 8 different servings! We left absolutely delighted.



GETTING AROUND: Bike?: As I mentioned earlier, renting bicycles (with back-pedal brakes) was a total disaster for us (see my June 6 post). I’ve often read that Copenhagen is the biking capital, with plenty of bike lanes. That’s true, but those lanes are like highways—packed with cyclists who ride fast and yell at you if you, the poor tourist, aren’t going fast enough or are trying to figure out directions. It’s not always easy to spot where the bike paths go, especially at intersections. So no, biking in Copenhagen isn’t always pleasant—and I won’t even get started on when it rains! Metro?: There aren’t many lines, but it can be useful. Tickets are bought from very simple machines—so simple that... well, don’t do what we did! We thought it’d be smart to buy tickets in advance for our evening out as a family and for the kids’ trip to the airport the next day. Big mistake! We realized *too late* that the tickets were only valid for one hour after purchase. Result: a bunch of useless, non-refundable tickets.



Train?: Think RER (commuter rail). Perfect for getting from Central Station to the Carlsberg Brewery or elsewhere—fast and punctual! On foot?: The city center isn’t huge, and it’s nice to wander the streets, especially Strøget, the long pedestrian shopping street.



SIGHTSEEING: There’s so much to see in Copenhagen—ideal for a weekend, but we had to make choices. Here’s what we did over 3 days, including shopping:

CARLSBERG: A fun visit that reminded me of the Guinness tour. You don’t see the production facilities, but it’s still a great time! TIVOLI: A must for those who love amusement parks (like us) or just beautiful flower gardens. STATENS MUSEUM FOR KUNST: The national art museum—great for art lovers who want to discover Scandinavian painters. BOAT TOUR: We took a 1-hour cruise from Nyhavn, which was lovely. Just note that the boats aren’t covered, so only do it if it’s not raining! BIKE TOUR: Forget it! (See my June 6 post.) THE LITTLE MERMAID: It’s a small statue—nothing like our Manneken Pis! Here she is in her beautiful setting (the chimney in the background is the city’s incinerator, whose roof you can ski on in winter) on a rainy day. No crowds—perfect for photos, right?!



The same spot photographed from the boat on a sunny day:



So if you’re not a fan of Asian tourist crowds, now you know what to do! I might return to Copenhagen one day to visit:

Rosenborg Castle, which we missed because we didn’t book ahead, the DESIGN MUSEUM (Danes are famous for it), the NATIONAL MUSEUM with its renowned VIKING collection, AMALIENBORG (the royal palace), CHRISTIANIA (not many good things are said about it, but I’d spotted a cute café there), TorvehallerneKBH market halls—always fun to explore local food, St. SAVIOR’S CHURCH and its spiral tower (if you’re not afraid of heights!), the WAR MUSEUM (for those who like that sort of thing—not me, but I’m thinking of others...), the GLYPTOTEK CARLSBERG, which looks amazing but we had to prioritize!

(To be continued—Sealand north of Copenhagen)

Day 8 – Saturday, June 8 – All by ourselves! At last, alone! I think everyone knows that feeling, right? :) The kids left yesterday to head back to Belgium, and now we’ve got the whole vehicle to ourselves! Off we go to northern Zealand (north of Copenhagen)—there’s so much to see in this part of the country that we had to make some choices. Before meeting up with Kim, our Danish friend, we decide to visit one of the country’s largest castles, Frederiksborg.



Frederiksborg Castle was built in the early 17th century by King Christian IV to expand his power, and it’s a unique example of the Danish Renaissance. It was rebuilt after a fire in the mid-19th century and has housed the Museum of National History since 1878. The museum showcases 500 years of Danish history, with a remarkable collection of portraits, historical paintings, furniture, tapestries, and decorative arts. It’s the largest and most important collection in Denmark and continues to grow with new works. (Visit Denmark)

Right from the entrance, the chapel impresses with its size and rich decoration—for a Protestant country, no less.



The ceilings in the other rooms are just as stunning.



We explore this grand, sprawling castle, which houses an impressive collection of period furniture, including Baroque cabinets.



Equally remarkable are the marble-inlaid tables, one of which is shown in detail below.



The walls are covered in portraits of aristocrats. This one caught my eye because the gentleman’s proportions are just too funny!



There are also photographs and more recent works.





The French-style gardens are well worth a visit.



I’d spotted a little café at the far end of the garden, but unfortunately, it’s closed on this Whit Monday. Oh well—every cloud has a silver lining, as they say, because just a stone’s throw from the castle, we find a charming restaurant that doesn’t break the bank. We then cross the countryside to meet up with our friend Kim, who lives in... With him and his brand-new Tesla—like 50% of the cars we’ve seen here—we set off for a drive through the lovely Zealand countryside, where cute vacation homes are tucked away. We’re in Zealand, the land of the sea, which is everywhere here. We arrive in Hundested, at the mouth of Roskilde Fjord, and have dinner at a small restaurant on the quiet little harbor. Afterward, we hit the road again for a “sunset” stop at Tisvildeleje Beach. Now we’re heading to Kim’s IPA house, where he’s setting us up for the next three nights.

Surprise—we’ll be the only ones in this huge place! I have to admit, during those three nights, I couldn’t help but think of *The Shining*! 😮🤪😐