Croatia, Montenegro – two victims of overtourism?

Mid-June, two Auvergnats on the starting blocks—off we go to the former Yugoslavia! We’d already explored some nooks and crannies of northern Croatia back in 2019, so we’re keeping the momentum going by planning a trip to the south of the country and then Montenegro.

On the way back, we’ll drift into Bosnia-Herzegovina just to mix things up a bit!

We’re a little unsure about what to expect in terms of tourist crowds.

Dubrovnik has a reputation for being the hardest-hit city by overtourism, and Kotor and the whole Dalmatian coast aren’t exactly empty...

Luckily, most European countries haven’t started school holidays yet, and some measures seem to have been put in place to limit the flow (like restrictions on the number of cruise ships allowed to dock at the same time).

Maybe we’ll manage to escape the promised hell?

For now, we’re slamming the doors of the Scirocco and heading off to our first stop: northern Italy!

Curious, I’ll follow your post – it’s off to a great start! Tourism, hell, crowds, tourism, hell, crowds 😛😉 You know what I think about it! There’s always a way to adapt, work around things, make do... because we can’t change that massive flow (and we’re part of it), and we’ve got to see the bright side—like being able to travel in the first place.

I won’t clutter your travel journal with a photo, but I took one at Sérignan beach this morning. It’s July 11th, and the beaches are packed—except for some spots. Just walk a little and accept the driftwood scattered on the sand...

Tell us soon what you thought of these two little countries 🙂

There’s always a way to adapt, work around, or make do...

You can’t do anything about the consequences of an overwhelming tourist flow.

Unless you bring construction equipment to remove the concrete, tear down the buildings... Get rid of the beach bars, the sun loungers...

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves! 🙂

because we can’t change that crowd (which we’re part of)

As mentioned in the intro, Croatians have still managed to partially redirect that crowd—which we’re not part of—by regulating cruise ship traffic. 😎

They’ve also partly diverted the crowd we *are* part of by hitting us in the wallet (effective, but it makes people grumble in other travel journals... ) or by setting quotas.

Tell us quickly what you thought of these two little countries

For now, I’ll just mention the negative points often noted by other travelers (points I don’t necessarily agree with):

- The welcome: Croatians and Montenegrins aren’t very friendly toward tourists—kind of cold. Yeah, it’s not Morocco! But personally, it doesn’t bother me much, even though I noticed it too.

- The omnipresence of paid parking (plan a hefty budget...) Well, it’s not worse than in Italy or even southern France. And at least there are hourly parking options, so you don’t have to pay 10 euros when you’re only staying a couple of hours because of a daily rate! Plus, everything else (accommodation, restaurants) is cheaper (coastal areas) than the same thing in the same place in France. So... We spent 2320 € per person all-inclusive for 3 weeks.

(Small? Yes and no. The terrain is very rugged, so even if it’s only 20 kilometers as the crow flies, it can take quite a while... )

Hello Agnès

I’ve often thought about Croatia as a destination... but always dropped the idea because I was afraid of overcrowding (mainly, and secondarily because the hospitality and food didn’t seem top-notch).

So I’ll be following this thread closely to see if, like in the Cyclades, it’s possible to find some beautiful spots that aren’t too crowded (off-season, of course!) 😎.

Hey Muriel,

fear of overcrowding

Definitely better to avoid the summer season! 😉 Even September, in my opinion (Italians).

A lovely October like I had in Albania—must be amazing.

food didn’t seem top-notch

It’s not the country’s strong point, but compared to the US, Norway, Iceland, Ireland, or England, it’s paradise!

Hello Agnès, finally back! We (almost) missed you! 😉

Okay, the "vacation excuse" for not coming here doesn’t hold up (I’m living proof of that) in 2025, in the age of Wi-Fi and smartphones. Plus, who doesn’t have a little tablet to stay in touch? 😏

Comparisons aren’t always fair. I *loved* Croatia and Montenegro back in 2011, during my first trip there.

Authentic, lots of tourists but mostly Italians or Croatians, bills in kuna, waking up at 7 AM in the empty streets of Dubrovnik, grandmas at the village exits with their "Zimmer" signs, the house wine at the table… I loved it so much that for a few years, it became my favorite summer getaway spot—Split was "only" 1,000 km from home…

And I’ve seen Croatia change… Especially since adopting the euro. My last trip was in 2022, and I still managed to enjoy it by getting lost in a small village on the island of Hvar, but disappointment took over…

Eager to hear your thoughts, but for me, the deal’s done with these two countries… Not a tragedy—there are others—but a regret, since they were once so beautiful…

So, I’m hopping into the Scirocco even if the back seats are a bit tight (seriously, you drive that? I loooove it!!!)

Hey Bruno,

Yeah, Croatia has caught up tourism-wise with other Mediterranean destinations these days, and even the Croatians have felt the switch to the euro.

(Weirdly, you also pay in euros in Montenegro even though it’s outside the eurozone.)

Plus, who doesn’t have a little tablet to communicate these days?

Me... Just my smartphone!

There are spots where reception wasn’t exactly great, far from it!

Is that really what you’re driving? I loooove it!!!

That’s the boss’s car. It’s on its last legs with 230,000 km on the clock...

Maybe not the best ride for the former Yugoslavia!

The road surfaces aren’t always top-notch...

My car also has a name that starts with an S and ends with an O, but it’s way more basic.

Better suited for Eastern European roads, but it’s missing one essential feature for traveling during a heatwave: AC!

Hence the choice of the sporty one!

Thanks again for sharing your thoughts, experiences, and photos.

Yep, another spot where we’re all thinking we should’ve gone right away when we first heard about it—or better yet, *before* we heard about it. With all these things that make it not as great now as it used to be, we’re really starting to believe that the past was better

I went there before... But it was in the summer of '68, in my mom’s belly—I don’t remember any of it! 😮

For Dubrovnik, it’s better now than it was in 1991–1992... Same goes for the rest of the former Yugoslavia, actually...

All roads lead to Rome, as they say. But which one to choose for a trip to Croatia starting from the heart of Auvergne?

Mont Blanc Tunnel, Fréjus Tunnel, Mont Cenis Pass, Great St. Bernard Pass, Little St. Bernard Pass, Montgenèvre Pass, or the Échelle Pass?

Let’s not forget the goal is to reach our final destination fairly quickly.

So long to the most time-consuming options!

I was thinking of taking the Mont Blanc Tunnel, which I had to go through nearly 50 years ago—just to refresh my memory...

But it’s not very pleasant driving through there when there are wonderful landscapes just a few kilometers away!

The Great St. Bernard Pass wins the round, and we leave the highway in Chamonix.

A picnic break at Planet (I’m starting an online fundraiser to buy this chalet...), and we’re at the Swiss border.

Yes, the Great St. Bernard Pass straddles Switzerland and Italy, so we have to make a quick detour through the land of the Helvetians!

A detour that makes us want to plan a trip to this country one summer.

The sight of gas prices quickly cools our enthusiasm, and this time, we won’t spend a single franc in this slightly pricey country...

The road narrows, hairpin turns follow one after another, and a few patches of snow cling to the slopes.



The temperature is quite chilly due to the combined effects of altitude and wind, and the St. Bernards are waiting for customers...

We then cross into Italy, where the price of gas drops as fast as the stock market after a duck’s re-election.



No border checks—thanks, Schengen, for making life easier for travelers!

The Aosta Valley now stretches out at the end of the ribbon of asphalt, and we quickly reach our evening stop: the not-so-touristy village of Nus.

It would have been possible to reach Split in two long stages—just one night—but we prefer not to drive more than 6 hours a day, which is why we stop right after the border.

The booked apartment has a rococo or even old-fashioned decor, as is often the case in Italy, but it has all the necessary comforts.

At 44 € per night, it won’t break the budget!

We take advantage of this late afternoon to stretch our legs and buy some supplies for tomorrow’s picnic.

The streets are deserted, but the village still has some life, as evidenced by the number of shops.



The most crowded spot turns out to be the church, where a few grandmas are already waiting for the evening mass...

Just steps from our lodging is a pizzeria.

Perfect for our first vacation dinner!

Bon appétit! 😉

A travel journal that starts with a stop at home – what a great omen!

A chalet at Planet paid for by Leetchi – you need some good friends for that!

Quick tip for the Aosta Valley if you're passing through: don’t hesitate to stop in the city center. There are lots of beautifully restored ancient sites and a big pedestrian street that’s always busy (especially on weekends with folks from Haute-Savoie looking for cheap cigarettes and *pasta al dente*!)

A chalet at Planet funded by Leetchi, you need a lot of friends for that!

I stumbled upon this while looking on Maps for a nice spot to picnic.

It seems much quieter than down below! (Chamonix, Argentière, etc.)

We didn’t have time for a hike, but it looks like it has everything you’d need.

For the chalet, the price must be seven figures—and not starting with a 1...

The same in Montenegro would definitely be more within my budget!

The booked apartment has a rococo or even outdated decor, as is often the case in Italy, but it has all the necessary comforts.

I saw the photos... Sure enough, the floral bedspread, the checkered curtains, the yellow wall decor, and the shelves perched up high... 😏

The terrace, the iPad, the coffee... and the cigarette? 😉 Sounds like me (though no more cigarettes now)

The terrace, the iPad, the coffee... and the cigarette? 😉

I admit, I had to reframe that one 😕

Sounds like me (though no more cigarettes now)

Tough but wise decision!

Given the price, we can't be picky! 😄

It's often ugly in Italy even at 100 €. Maybe you really need to go well over that amount to get more contemporary decor? And then, just the bidet being everywhere in bathrooms—it reminds a French person of the 70s-80s...

Maybe we’ll manage to escape the promised hell?

Hell as seen by a disillusioned Croatian columnist... who holds up a mirror to (us) (you). How tourism killed my island

(Below are a few excerpts – published by Courrier International – since the full article is for subscribers only)

The article answers the question: “This is how we lost our island by becoming hostages to mass tourism.” And from where I’m writing, I can see the example right in front of me…

Where are you, Bruno?

Where are you, Bruno?

I could’ve answered “at home” since our département can sometimes suffer from overtourism too, but that’s not the case here…

The answer in an upcoming Travel Journal? 😉

Let’s let Agnès tell us about her Scirocco adventure (??)

Hi Agnès, We’ve hit the road in Croatia—I’ll be following along with you virtually, and who knows, maybe I’ll go one day! 😊

Thanks for that interesting link, Kola. 🙂

Locals are the first to suffer the downsides of overtourism, but some are also part of the problem.

If property owners didn’t give in to the promise of easy money, overtourism would struggle to exist (Airbnb, parking lots on empty land, selling to developers, etc.).

Some Croatians have definitely benefited from it, but they’re also killing the goose that lays the golden eggs.

Croatia is being overlooked in favor of Albania—cheaper and more welcoming.

Until that changes...

Hi Isabelle,

Welcome to Italy while you wait for your next stops in Croatia! !😉

(...

Locals are the first to suffer the nuisances of overtourism, but some are part of the cause.

God laughs at men who complain about the consequences while they cherish the causes.

Until...

... the realm of possibilities shrinks a little more. Will it go so far as to change desires, dreams, ways of doing things? ...)

Keep on your journey... 🙂

The most grueling part of this trip is upon us: crossing Italy from west to east...

Like in Germany, navigating the northern part of the boot is a real pain due to heavy traffic and endless roadworks.

And then, the locals aren’t exactly patient and have their own interpretation of the rules of the road...

That said, I’ve noticed a clear improvement on this last point!

Speed limits on the highway are generally respected, and no one’s tailgating me or flashing their lights to force me to pull over immediately.

What remains is the zigzag driving: I’ll pass you on the right, and the next vehicle on the left before suddenly swerving onto the exit lane...

Did some Italians learn to drive from a video game?

Another quirk: paying at toll booths.

Let’s just say that between the person trying to pay with 20-cent coins and the one who won’t leave until they get their credit card receipt, it takes a while at the toll...

Hence the lovely traffic jam on the outskirts of Milan!

We grit our teeth and wonder what awaits us next.

Gulp, roadworks ahead toward Brescia!

Let’s take the scenic route!

Back on the highway, we realize we’ve dodged the worst: an endless line of cars clogs the opposite lane—imagine having to go through that on the way back!

Hopefully, the roadworks will be finished by then...

I noticed that most of the construction sites were for viaducts, bridges, and tunnels.

It feels like, after the tragic collapse of the Polcevera viaduct in 2018, all major structures on Italian roads were inspected and renovated.

It wasn’t a luxury, given how rundown some of them were...

Alright, isn’t it lunchtime yet?

No way we’re stopping on the highway—there aren’t really any decent rest areas.

Why spend money on making drivers comfortable during their break, right?

Not a speck of greenery, the smallest possible space, and questionable cleanliness—it’s really inviting...

The rest areas with gas stations and restaurants aren’t much better, so it’s best to get off the highway.

How about a picnic in Soave, a small town topped with vineyards and a castle not far from here?

No sooner said than done—we leave purgatory for paradise.

This place deserves more than just a quick stop, and it must be lovely to wander around here!



After polishing off the last nectarine, we continue our Italian ordeal until the Slovenian border, which we cross near Kozina.

This route lets us avoid Slovenian highways, where you can only drive after buying a vignette.

Not very useful for a quick pass through the country!

Our evening stop is just a few kilometers away: a small village inn lost in the countryside.

We drop off our things and set off for a walk to the next village.





Hay bales dot the fields, sheep startle at our passing, a deer’s eye meets ours—we’re truly starting our journey now!



A church perched atop a hill catches our eye, and we decide to climb up to it.



Nice viewpoint!

This long pre-dinner stroll has made us hungry, so we head back to the hotel for dinner.

The menu looks tempting, but what we’re served is... less so.

I end up with a plate of boiled meats that could feed two people, while my companion wonders if ordering the Zagreb schnitzel was a good idea.



A 5-centimeter-thick, 15-centimeter-long breaded pork steak stuffed with cheese...

Just looking at it, you gain 10 kilos (no photo, you’ll have to take my word for it)!

We’ll come across this specialty often—it’d make a McDonald’s meal look like the height of healthy eating on Croatian tables.

But we’ll only try it once...

Bon appétit! !

And then, the locals aren’t exactly patient and have their own interpretation of the road rules...

On that last point, though, I’ve noticed a real improvement

Since then, you’ve driven in Asia. That might explain it ;)

Ciao

And then, just the ubiquitous bidet in bathrooms—it’s such a throwback to the 70s-80s for a French person...

It’s the one thing that’s always missing in French bathrooms and drives me nuts from start to finish during my trips. It’s so annoying to have to get your legs and feet wet every time when all you need is a quick, targeted clean! 😛

Catherine

If we start a debate about "for or against bidets in bathrooms," I’m out of this travel journal! 😄

I’m not sure I’d rather not drive in Thailand either…

And I really wonder how there aren’t more accidents on Italian highways????

Hi Catherine,

It's true that the bidet has uses you can only discover in Italy: initially, but also, and especially, as a foot washer!

I'm not quite at the age where I can lift my leg up to the sink anymore, even if I'm still flexible enough!

It's also pretty handy for rinsing off a pair of sandals...

The bidet would probably stand out less if the rest of the decor were a bit more, let's say, up-to-date...

Too late! But I'm sure there'll be more debates soon...😉

It’s the thing that’s always missing in French bathrooms and drives me nuts from start to finish of my stays

Hang in there, Catherine... The bidet is making a comeback!

If we start a debate about "for or against bidets in bathrooms," I’m out of this travel journal!

What I’ve been wondering lately is whether we should pass a law to ban the use of the word *Montenegro*. It’s surprising no one’s thought of it yet.

Hey there,

If we start a debate about "for or against bidets in bathrooms," I’m out of this travel journal!

Well, if Agnès had talked about wine when it came to Soave (some really good whites with strong minerality, and quite a bit of plonk) instead of nectarines, I could’ve chimed in... 😛

As for driving, nothing to say—I don’t see big differences compared to the average French driver. Actually, it felt less stressful in Italy, maybe because it’s more intuitive—just a matter of habit, I guess. The Balkan drivers, though... but I had a blast revving the engine like crazy...

Looking forward to the rest!

Catherine

Shouldn’t there be a law to stop people from using the word Montenegro?

Absolutely, it’s outrageous! I suggest instead: “The Ambassador’s car is ready.” 😉

Crna Gora or Црна Гора in the original, "black mountain" in literal translation.

Montenegrin officially uses two alphabets: one in Latin characters, the other in Cyrillic.

At the government’s request, the Latin script dominates, and Cyrillic is expected to disappear eventually.

Pick your side, comrade.

Montenegro is the Venetian version of "black mountain," and the deconstructionists haven’t passed through here.

Though, in that case, we’d also have to rename Mont Blanc...

(End of the aside)

If we start a debate on "bidets in bathrooms – yay or nay," I’m outta this travel journal!

I stuck around, but the journal’s at a standstill! 😛

It's coming, it's coming! !

Just one more border to cross—here we come, Croatia!

Since 2023, this country has been part of the Schengen Area. The traffic jams of vacationers on a spree are now a thing of the past.

The buildings are still there, though, along with a few customs officers waving us across the line.

We decide to take the Magistrala Road, the legendary ribbon of asphalt that runs along the Dalmatian coast from Rijeka to Dubrovnik, instead of taking the highway.

Not exactly a great idea, given the number of seaside resorts we had to drive through!

So, we eventually merge onto the expressway to arrive in Trogir early enough to explore it on foot.

I spot a parking lot with reasonable rates, and we pull in.

Free parking is really tough to find in this country, even if you’re willing to walk a reasonable distance from the main attraction.

You constantly have to hunt for the best option when visiting a tourist spot—especially if you don’t want to pay a daily rate or 5 euros per hour...

This is also true for most of the major beaches and natural parks.

A short kilometer walk along the sea, and we’re at the gates of Trogir’s historic heart, built on a small island.

It’s absolutely charming, and the number of visitors is still manageable.













It’s not so much the number of visitors that’s the problem, but the sheer amount of bars, restaurants, tacky souvenir shops, and tourist agencies...

Like everywhere in the world, once a place gets overrun, it stops feeling like a real town and turns into some kind of interchangeable Disneyland—full of overpriced, inauthentic consumer traps...

We now climb the Kamerlengo Castle tower to admire the city from above.



One last stroll along the quays, and we head back to the Scirocco before settling into our home for the next two nights: a cozy little house in Solin, a suburb of Split.





Why not Split?

The prices aren’t the same, and I was worried the city would be too hectic. Plus, as mentioned earlier, traveling by car means finding a place to park...

Turns out, parking space was the number one criterion when choosing accommodations for the first part of this trip, which was mostly in urban and/or highly touristy areas!

On the way, we stop at the supermarket to stock up the fridge.

We realize that food prices in Croatia are pretty much in line with French prices, and the average Croatian must struggle at the end of the month, given that the median salary here is only about 860 € (around 2180 € in France).

The fruit, vegetable, and meat sections are pretty sparse—nothing like the abundance in our supermarkets.

We’ll be eating a lot of pork during this trip, since there aren’t many other appealing options (battery-farmed chicken, no thanks...).

When it comes to non-alcoholic drinks, you really have to search to find quality products, and pure orange juice comes with a hefty price tag.

No such issues with wine and beer, though.

Speaking of which, I just poured us a little apéritif on our terrace...

Cheers! !

This new day will be dedicated to exploring the historic center of Split, the enclosure of Diocletian’s Palace, the Roman emperor from the late 3rd century originally from Dalmatia.

The old town developed within the walls of this palace, using or repurposing existing structures while also creating new constructions.

So don’t expect to wander through Split the way Diocletian once did!

Some monuments, however, have remained fairly true to their original appearance, even if their function has evolved over the years.

This palace wasn’t a modest country retreat, as its dimensions show: 215 meters by 181!

The visit is free; only entry to certain monuments is paid.

Tickets are bought in front of the cathedral, the former Mausoleum of Diocletian, and different options help reduce the cost compared to buying individual tickets.

Diocletian isn’t the star of the place anymore since a famous series chose Croatia (among others!) as the setting for its plot: *Game of Thrones*.

You’ll hear Daenerys’s name far more often than that of the only Roman emperor to voluntarily abdicate.

I admit I didn’t recognize the filming locations, even though I watched the entire sprawling saga.

It must be said that post-production keeps only a few elements of reality and masks the rest.

A bit like a photo of Madonna first thing in the morning versus one on glossy magazine paper...

But I’m getting off track—let’s get back to the point!

We leave Solin in the early morning, heading toward the parking spot we’d scoped out on the outskirts of the city center.

Gulp—it’s full!

We’re still in June, a weekday no less. The *Splićani* aren’t on vacation and still need to park to go to work!

I look for another spot on my map, and we try our luck in a more residential area, slightly farther from the historic heart.

Bingo! In the shade, no less!

About twenty minutes later, we arrive at the palace gates, specifically the *Porta Aurea*, the northern gate.

A few groups are already milling about, along with some solo travelers.

Unfazed, Bishop Gregory of Nin watches all these travelers pass by and no longer even bats an eye when a few cheeky ones rub his toe, thinking it’ll bring them a bit of luck.





Once inside the city, the crowd disperses a bit, only to regroup around the Peristyle, the best-preserved part of the old palace.



I’ll leave you to explore freely now—visit the cathedral, climb the tower, and step into the Temple of Jupiter.













It’s a bit crowded, sure, but as soon as you have to pay, things thin out pretty quickly...

We then wander from alley to alley, from square to little plaza, until hunger starts gnawing at us.







We decide to move a little farther from the palace to try and avoid the multilingual tourist traps with their over-the-top promises, opting instead for a slightly better-rated restaurant...

The cuttlefish ink risotto turns out to be delicious, by the way!



How about a post-meal stroll to help digestion?

Off we go, tackling Marjan Park—maybe not the best idea for a walk on a scorching June day around 2 PM...

We’re a bit worn out and parched by the time we reach Telegrin, the park’s highest point at 178 meters!







Not a tour group in sight—just two or three other travelers.

We’re only a short climb away from the bustling heart of Split, yet few think to make the trek up here.

Maybe in the evening?

We head back to the car just in time to dodge a brief but sudden storm.

A small road winding above Solin catches my eye.

We don’t hesitate to take it.

Soon, we’re in the company of just a few bees and the whisper of the wind.





It seems to me that tourism in Croatia has so much more to offer than just its coastline, but the natural side of things seems to have been overlooked by promoters and tourist offices alike...

All the better for hikers and lovers of untouched spaces! !

In your photos, Split doesn’t even look crowded with tourists in the city 🙂.

The Peristyle area was a bit too hectic for my taste, but I’ve never seen a human swarm like some days at Mont Saint-Michel! In short, it was manageable.

The more I visit heavily crowded places, the more I realize the main issue comes from groups.

Even with the mandatory earpieces for the guide’s chatter, tours with 10, 20, or 40 people still create a nuisance—traffic jams, walls of people, obstacles.

We’re diving right into the heart of the matter! Ended up visiting Split with a few interesting detours...

By the way, where are all these groups coming from? 😠 #cruisesarefun....

There are buses too...

Quite a few older folks at this time of year (June), but also some young people (under 30, you get the idea) lost in the middle—bet they’ll be thanking their travel agency when they get back...

I’ll admit, I struggle to grasp the concept.

Sure, I get being shuttled from place to place (bus, boat...) with pre-booked hotels, but guided tours and meals in countries that are super easy to explore on your own? That leaves me baffled.

The only time I’ve done group travel was in Egypt (a cruise, actually), and I don’t exactly have fond memories of it... Plus, the guide 🏴‍☠️🏴‍☠️🏴‍☠️ at me because I’d wander off on my own as soon as we arrived at a site...

There was only one "sea HLM" docked in Split—7 floors, still a dwarf compared to this one... COVID was quickly forgotten...

Dubrovnik has capped the numbers—maybe Split has done the same?

I think cruises will have to change course. Home ports are turning them away more and more. The only ones left will be the smaller ships for port-hopping, while the big ones will basically become floating resorts. A theme park on water. Las Vegas by sea.

How's your trip going? Overtourism or not? Can't wait to follow your journey!

I mean, when she’s not on vacation, she’s traveling 🙂

She’ll be back, no doubt about it!

The trip is over, this is a travel journal written on the way back! 😉

And when I say "way back," I mean back to work, so less time to dedicate to this journal.

(Uploading photos takes forever!)

Trip around my desk.... I don’t know if there’d be enough to write a travel journal. 😏

We arrived in Croatia and took care of booking our spots to take the stunning road leading to the summit of Sveti Jure, a mountain peaking at 1,762 meters in altitude located in Biokovo Park.

Unlike other places, reservations don’t open weeks or even months in advance but only 5 days prior.

It’s way more practical and ensures only people who are sure to go actually book.

But why isn’t access free, you might ask?

To prevent accidents and traffic jams!

While the road isn’t one-way, it often has just a single narrow lane...

Allowing an unlimited number of vehicles would be asking for serious trouble.

So, the area is only accessible to about twenty cars per hour, and you must arrive at the exact time indicated on your reservation.

Once inside, though, you can stay as long as you want!

Motorcycles, bikes, and pedestrians aren’t subject to any quota and can move freely during the park’s opening hours.

Freely, but not for free! Entry costs 15 € per person (10 € for cyclists)...

---/---

It’s 10:50 AM, and we arrive at the park barrier. The other participants in the 11:00 batch are already there, and we’ll be leaving almost last.

Even better!

We let a few followers pass us on purpose, then stop soon after to let everyone get ahead.

Now we’re alone!

The forest covering the mountainside has suffered from fire, and the blaze devoured the trees like a teenager with popcorn at a movie theater.

The disaster doesn’t seem recent, and the scene has been cleaned up.

Partially burned trunks stand like scattered bonfires along the road—definitely not the time to light up a cigarette...



This bleak sight continues for a few turns before we reach an altitude spared by the fire.

Shortly after, we arrive at what’s the final stop for many visitors: the Biokovo Skywalk.

The parking lot is reasonably full, but we find a spot easily.

Signs ask travelers not to linger too long on the famous skywalk—though today, that’s pretty unnecessary since everyone will have time to take photos!





The spot is way more spectacular from an aerial view, but the scenery from this fun setup is still stunning.



After that, it’s pretty much the same just next door...

We continue our climb toward the summit, trying to catch the eye of the locals.



No luck...

The road gets narrower and narrower—luckily, we don’t pass anyone!

I wonder if this double barrier is really sturdy, but I’ve got no desire to test it...



The higher we go, the more the landscapes improve, and the more we feel like we’re alone in the world.

What a contrast to Split’s Peristyle!

Kilometer 23—we’ve arrived. The tiny parking lot only has a few spots, but we’re in luck.



We leave the warmth of the car for the windy chill at this altitude.



A windbreaker won’t be too much! !