A Scandinavian Tour - Summer 2025 (page 1 of 2)

Off on new adventures!!! For my wife’s 60th birthday, I’m really making her happy. While I usually pick warm, sunny destinations, she’s more tempted by places where you don’t suffer from the heat. So, it’s off to Norway!! A real challenge for me—a southern guy who’s as cold-sensitive as they come. I keep telling anyone who’ll listen (well, just myself, really) that these aren’t the countries for me, that rain will be our travel companion, that we’ll have to face polar bears, navigate between icebergs, that there are still Vikings around, and all sorts of other things. Of course, not wanting to make it easy, we’re driving from the Lyon area where we live. Friends who’ve visited the country told us it’s pretty expensive to eat out (among other things), so we’re bringing supplies—especially enough for apéritifs the whole trip!!! It’s not a camper van, but a "hotel-car" we’ll be doing! We’ll see how it goes! As usual, I’ll try to narrate the journey with my two-cent comments, plus some little tips to avoid our mistakes—assuming I don’t lose any fingers to the cold! Every night, I’ll count them to make sure I still have all ten! We’re not in *Ch’tis* territory but even farther Noooorth (as Galabru would say). Note that I’m traveling with a synovial effusion in my knee! The old man’s not in great shape!! Here we go!!

PS: As always, I’m a filmmaker, so I’ve made an effort with a few photos from my phone.

Day 1: On the road ... - July 20 Departure at 8:00 AM for 919 km of roads (all highways, by the way). Passed through Besançon, Mulhouse, Freiburg, Frankfurt, then arrived in Göttingen. No issues on the French highways, but the incomprehensible traffic jams in Germany always surprise me. You go from two to three lanes and it jams up!! We’re driving at 150 km/h, then suddenly a 1 km traffic jam with no particular incident. This isn’t the first time I’ve noticed this with our German neighbors. It’s pretty tiring, but I knew that going in. When we arrived at the hotel, a nice shower, then a good meal at the hotel’s Italian restaurant, and straight to bed.

The +: We’re on our way The -: German traffic jams you can’t pop open with a beer bottle opener!

Day 2: Arrival in Scandinavia - July 21

Hotel: Best Western in Göttingen: Classic but with a good breakfast and a nice room.

Departure at 8:30 AM to catch a ferry in Puttgarden. I booked a crossing at 2:15 PM. Plenty of time, but with potential traffic jams... Well, no worries on that front, except for a small 1 km jam when arriving in Puttgarden, due to going from one lane to... one lane (Really, that’s not an explanation!). I still don’t get it. We arrived early, and a Scandlines ferry company rep told me my crossing was guaranteed at 2:15 PM, but if there was space before, we could board. So we did, leaving at 1:00 PM. And don’t even joke—this time you’re not taking a plane, so you’re not "taking off"! A 45-minute crossing without any issues, and we crossed the Danish border. Two hours of (excellent) driving later, we arrived at the hotel in Copenhagen. I chose it south of the city, at a reasonable price and with a metro station nearby. Needing to stretch our legs a bit, we took a walk in the neighborhood, which is brand new, with buildings separated by canals. The walk was short-lived, though, as it started raining. We headed straight back to the hotel and had a pre-dinner drink. An excellent Côte du Rhône accompanied us. Bedtime came quickly—after 1,500 km in two days, we were pretty tired.

The +: We’re in Scandinavia The -: It’s raining

1- View of the splendid sky from the ferry

Day 3: Copenhagen - July 22 After a fantastic breakfast that gave us tons of energy, we took the metro to the city center. Not-so-practical detail: Knowing we only had a round trip between the hotel and the city center, we tried to buy all the tickets at once (2 for the outbound and 2 for the return). Big mistake because the 4 tickets were only valid for one hour. We had to buy 2 more on the way back! We arrived at the town hall as planned. The weather was overcast but it wasn’t raining. We went there for the photo ops. The town hall square is spoiled by huge illuminated ads on top of all the buildings around it. There are quite a few statues in the area (including one of Andersen, the famous striker for FC Grimm and author of a few books). We continued to Christiansborg, the Danish parliament. It’s open for visits and actually pretty cool because there’s a whole section where the king (which one?) works. What does he do? He shakes hands with people who come to see him, waves from the balcony sometimes, organizes official banquets—basically the royal life! But Frederick X doesn’t live there (that number makes me think I should count my fingers tonight). There’s a huge room with amazing tapestries. After the visit, we headed to Nyhavn, the ultimate tourist spot (Denmark’s Montmartre). A canal, boats, brightly colored houses along 600 meters, and of course, tons of tourists. It’s really pretty despite everything. A tiny ray of sunshine gave us hope for better weather! Next, we went to Amalienborg, another palace where the king lives and raises his children (it says so in the book, so it must be true!). At noon, the changing of the guard was happening, so we waited. That’s when my wife got noticed. There must have been only one wasp in all of Denmark, and of course, it stung her near her lips. Since she’s a bit allergic to those critters, we headed to a pharmacy and managed to communicate in Spanish. Our English and the pharmacist’s weren’t compatible. More fear than harm, but what a twist for someone who’s traveled a lot, including in Africa with all the creatures encountered there! We still saw the changing of the guard. It was absolutely classic, but we were there! We continued our walk to the famous Little Mermaid, the statue everyone knows. It was really nice strolling along the water. Suddenly, we saw a huge crowd gathered around a rock about 200 meters away—of course, the famous statue was on it. We’d have to push through to get THE photo. But in the end, we managed to get the shots we wanted around the beauty.



2 - The famous one!

I’d told my wife that if it didn’t rain until we reached the Little Mermaid, that would already be great. What an idiot! As soon as we took the photos, it started raining, and harder and harder until it was pouring! We took shelter in a restaurant and had a meal while waiting for a break. But it just kept going... When it started raining less, we decided to head to Rosenborg, the castle with the king’s treasure and all the rest (at least we’d be sheltered). Big mistake—did you think all the tourists wouldn’t have the same idea? We got there only to find everything was full. “Tomorrow,” the guy told me! Yeah, but tomorrow I won’t be here! So we went to Rundetårn, but it was really raining. We took refuge in the Lego store, but it was smaller than we thought, so we ended up outside again, and it was still raining. We walked around the shopping street a bit, but it kept raining. So, we headed back to the hotel to relax, not forgetting to grab our metro tickets (grr). The end of the day was a bit gloomy. Another little walk around the neighborhood near the hotel. We saw a beach with umbrellas, ice cream vendors, churros, lots of people lying on towels, balls, and beach gear. AND, oh, it’s the rain playing tricks on you! Because of course, none of that was real—just a beach, two swimmers in wetsuits doing laps or widths while trying to avoid the seaweed. Not many appealing restaurants in the area, so we had another apéro-dinner, all with my excellent red wine! The +: Christiansborg The -: The rain

Day 4: Crossing Sweden - July 23 Hotel: Scandic Sluseholmen: Good, the amenities are solid, and it’s super convenient with the metro nearby and free parking.

Today was a driving day. We crossed the famous Øresund Bridge, which connects Denmark and Sweden—about 7 km in a tunnel, then arriving on an entirely man-made island, and finally 7 km on a stunning bridge. We’re in Sweden now—no customs officer in sight... We passed through Malmö, then headed north. A stop at the Slynge Rock, a spot where you can, aside from the rock itself, watch some birds. It felt good to stretch our legs a bit and get closer.

3 - Slynge Rock

We continued to Tanum and its rock carvings. The GPS took us through some tiny roads—I wondered what I’d stumble upon. In the end, a fantastic visitor center (the USA vibes were strong!). We wandered from one site to another. The first shock was at the main Vitlycke panel. At first glance, the carvings looked really well-preserved, but a closer look made it clear they’d been repainted—and regularly, using techniques from the original era. It’s primitive art, but a nice break. The weather was great, so we had a picnic and did a few short hikes to see more carvings.

4 - The main Vitlycke panel

5 - One detail among many others

We carried on toward Oslo, our next stop. Again, we crossed the border without any issues, but arriving in Oslo was pretty tough when your hotel is right in the center and there are one-way streets everywhere!!! It felt like that famous Raymond Devos sketch! First road: One-way Second road: One-way Third road: One-way My wife panicked a little—I must’ve missed one—but in the end, we made it to our hotel. It has parking, so all’s well! Now, cozy in our room, I’m waiting to see if I’ll get a fine. Norway’s a bit of a Big Brother country (I’ll talk more about that later). Our hotel is super well-located near the parliament, and it has parking (paid and expensive). A nearby Pakistani restaurant filled us up. A digestive stroll led us to Oslo’s French toilets—a blue one, a white one, and a red one, with the motto *Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité* written on them. So original!

6 - Cocorico!

The weather’s nice—always a plus. The +: Tanum The -: The chaos getting to the hotel

Day 5: Central Oslo - July 24 Off to a beautiful day. Plus, it’s hot and sunny! Bus 15 (stop at Vigelandsparken) to go admire Gustav Vigeland’s statues. Puritan souls should abstain since they’re mostly nudes, but they represent life in general. There’s nothing sexual about these depictions of working-class life. The park is lovely and well-maintained.

7 - The weather’s nice, they’re barely dressed!

Back on the bus to visit the Cathedral. Nothing spectacular—you can tell it’s not really their thing. Only the king’s box stands out a bit. Then on to Akershus Fortress. The audio guide tour is interesting. I didn’t understand the other tourists there, by the way. The audio guide was included in the ticket price, and we were the only ones using it! Plus, it’s well done with lots of anecdotes.

8 - It doesn’t look like much, the fortress, but it’s something else!

Picnic in a park—they’re so numerous and well-equipped here. (It’s clean, no vandalism.) Then on to the Oslo Opera House with its really original architecture. “We’re allowed!” Basically, you can climb onto the roof for a panoramic view, unfortunately spoiled by cruise ships.

9 - View of the harbor from the opera

I suggest to my wife that we visit the Munch Museum nearby. I let out a cry of horror when she tells me she doesn’t know the Norwegian artist. I quickly show her his most famous work, which is............................... (answer already given), and honestly, she’s not convinced. So no Munch for us. Then I get the idea to head to the Maridalsvelein district, where supposedly you can find street art. The walk is a bit long! Plus, Oslo (like many places in Norway) is under construction, so navigating the streets isn’t easy. I imagine a lot of work happens during this season since it must be difficult with snow. When we arrive, there are a few murals, but many are tagged and look old. While I love street art, I can’t stand tags, especially when they cover existing works. The walk back to the hotel is tough—our legs are exhausted, and my knee is really swollen. We won’t go out again, preferring to have a dinner apéro in the room, still with my excellent Côte du Rhône.

The plus: Akershus The minus: Maridalsvelein

Hello, I’ll be reading you closely—I live near Lyon too, and I dream of taking a similar trip. I’m married to someone who only dreams of sunny destinations (though he *did* come back enchanted from our stays in Scotland and Denmark ;)). Looking forward to reading more! Françoise

Hi Françoise, we’re back and thrilled with my idea. See you soon!

Day 6: Bygdøy and its museums - July 25 After yet another hearty breakfast, we head to quay number 4 to board a shuttle to the peninsula of Bygdøy. The weather’s gorgeous! While Denmark was rainy, so far, Norway’s climate is just perfect. But first, we queue up to enter the city hall, specifically the grand hall where the Nobel Prize is awarded every year. Nothing extraordinary—just a few paintings—but it’s the symbolism that counts. No photos allowed, not even of our friend Donald, who dreams of coming here one day! A wedding between two women just took place. They’re dressed in traditional costumes. What tradition? I’ll admit I don’t know—it’s just the word we usually use—but either way, it’s pretty cool. A short boat ride later, and we arrive near the famous museums of Bygdøy. I chose (and this time, my wife didn’t argue) to visit the Fram Museum and the Kon-Tiki Museum. Great choice! Even though we’re not big museum fans, both of them were fascinating. The first one covers polar explorations. Nansen and Amundsen, the two most famous explorers, are truly celebrated here—no surprise, those guys were legends! Their stories are gripping, everything’s well explained, and on top of that, you get to see their ship, a hero of polar conquest. There are also interactive exhibits, including a seaplane flight simulator that’s really fun. We spent nearly three hours there without a dull moment. The second museum, smaller, focuses on the adventures of one man: Thor Heyerdahl. Another incredible character! Of course, the two boats that made his expeditions possible are on display! There’s even a great film about preserving the Kon-Tiki after its voyage. We have a picnic at one of the many tables provided—something we’ll notice is common in Norway: picnic tables + free toilets. Afterward, I decide to hike around the peninsula. It’s really nice. We stumble upon a beach packed with people (all Norwegians). It feels like the French Riviera! I dip a toe in, but nope—not my kind of temperature! My wife thinks it’s fine but doesn’t go past her knees. Honestly, the water isn’t very clear. With those huge cruise ships in the harbor—even if we’re a bit far—those ocean giants aren’t exactly eco-friendly, and they’re probably dumping more than just holy water. We keep hiking through the woods and head back to catch the shuttle, ready to relax at our nearby hotel. We’ve walked a lot today, and my knee’s definitely feeling it. We go out again to visit the Royal Palace. It’s not amazing, but the gardens are pretty. The guards are doing their thing—mounting the guard, of course! There’s the traditional balcony where the royals occasionally wave to the people, kind of like a Miss France moment.

Italian restaurant for dinner, then bedtime.

The plus: The two museums The minus: The beach

PS: No photos today. I forgot!

Day 7: Telemark and Its Churches - July 26 Hotel: Thon Hotel Cecil – A well-known chain in Norway. Hard to reach by car, but with excellent services and, most importantly, perfectly located. Today, we head to Telemark. Leaving Oslo goes smoothly—very little traffic since it’s Saturday and Norwegians aren’t up yet. First stop: the Heddal Stave Church. One of those famous wooden churches! It feels like I’m 15 years younger, back on one of my trips to the USA, specifically Rapid City, where there’s an identical one!!!! Joking aside, it’s stunning. No guided tours, but the young people at the entrance are happy to answer our questions. Why is there a covered gallery around the church? Why this? Why, why? It’s truly a beautiful monument, all wood, pegs included.

10- Heddal Stave Church

We continue on the road, which I’ve dubbed the "Church Road," since we stop at the one in Sauland, then the one in Høydalsmo (spelling adjusted—normally, the first ‘o’ has a slash through it!). We can’t visit the interior, but like all Norwegian churches, they’re surrounded by a cemetery.

11- Høydalsmo Church

These cemeteries are incredibly well-maintained, even graves of people who passed away long ago and probably don’t get many visitors. Every grave is discreetly but tastefully decorated with flowers. We finally arrive in Eidsborg. A guided tour of the stave church’s interior is offered at 1 PM. It’s 12:45—we’re good to go! With our traveler’s English and my Southern California accent, we should be fine. Nope! We end up with a Norwegian who stutters slightly, speaks an English that only locals... well, let’s just say I won’t offend anyone. Plus, he must be a third-year intern who’s behind in school because he doesn’t know his spiel. When he talks, he hesitates—obviously—but sometimes you can see him thinking, *"Oh! Right! I need to say that! I forgot that part!"* At one point, he repeats word for word what he’d just said moments before, then suddenly stops, realizing his mistake! It was painful. We felt bad for him. We just wanted it to end. Our picnic, still packed, was much appreciated! The road to our next stop is truly magnificent—mountain roads where lakes follow forests, dotted here and there with red, yellow, or white houses. A real mountain landscape that reminds me of Colorado (yes, I’m a huge fan of the US!). I hope to spot some wildlife, like a moose, but no. Nothing moving. We arrive at the parking lot for Edlandfossen, a waterfall known for its width. Click-clack from the bottom, then a short walk to reach the top, re-click-clack, and we’re done! Next goal: a hike to Gloppefossen. I’d found GPS points for the parking lot. We search desperately for the trailhead, described as hard to spot. We find it, and after a few minutes, we hear the waterfall. Strange—I’d read that we’d arrive from the bottom, but here we are up high. Easy to figure out: my GPS coordinates were wrong, and we ended up at a stunning viewpoint above the waterfall (not right next to it). From up there, I can barely make out the path we should’ve taken down below, but we’d have had to park much farther away. Oh well, the view is beautiful, but the hike was super short! We continue on the road to Bykle, a tiny, remote village where I managed to find a reasonably priced hotel in a cozy atmosphere. We enjoy a delicious meal at the hotel restaurant and hit the hay.

The plus: Heddal Stave Church The minus: No surprise—the guide in Eidsborg

Ugh, such a shame we missed the MUNCH Museum. On the other hand, we’re so influenced by our knowledge of *The Scream*—it’s understandable, but if I can give future travelers one piece of advice, it’s to forget that painting, which isn’t necessarily representative of this incredibly prolific artist’s entire body of work. Plus, the museum’s architecture is absolutely stunning!

I’m extra glad we didn’t skip it because even *we* almost did! My husband isn’t big on "art museums," and even less so when it comes to contemporary art… but he actually enjoyed it. Go figure!

Anyway, there’s a way to make up for it: I’ll be writing about it in my travel journal… stay tuned! !

Ugh, such a shame we didn’t get to see the MUNCH Museum

The choice was up to the missus—it was still HER trip after all 😊 Looking forward to your trip report. Later!

Good evening, thanks for the feedback and the photos. Too bad there aren’t one or two photos of Nyhavn and its colorful houses... because the Little Mermaid—meh, no need to go out of your way to see it 🙂 On the other hand, those tortured statues are from Frogner Park in Oslo, and they’re pretty impressive!

Day 8: Telemark and the Lysefjord – July 27 Hotel: Bykle Hotel: A cozy vibe with a charmingly old-school feel

After scarfing down breakfast, we drive a few kilometers and start a short hike to get into the mood. It’s at Byklestigen, and by climbing fairly quickly, you can see two really pretty lakes. No wildlife encounters, but the good weather keeps following us.

12- View from the hike

We continue and take the scenic Suleskardveien road. While it takes a while to reveal its beauty, once you reach the heights, the landscapes are stunning. It’s just a succession of lakes and small mountains with sheep everywhere. For the first time (but not the last), the road feels like hiking—except you’re in a car. For driving, you need to anticipate, but it’s manageable since the narrow passages only allow one vehicle at a time. We stop at several viewpoints, though we can’t stop everywhere because many pull-offs where you could park are blocked with chains and signs saying « grpklgr grtrgbf », which in Telemark Norwegian means « private property, no parking ».

13- Suleskardveien landscape

We find a little spot and—off we go—to the top of that small mountain you see up there. My partner humors my urge to wander. Pinpointing exactly where we are is anyone’s guess. It’s pretty, it’s uphill, and despite the lack of trees (it’s more like a steppe), we discover a lake that forces us to take a detour. We realize that hiking like this isn’t all fun and games—everything’s spongy, and dry spots are rare. The adventure lasts a while before we decide to head back to the car. The return is epic—dodging barbed wire and super soggy patches—but that’s part of the fun. Later, I notice lots of people doing the same thing: stopping somewhere and trying to reach a small mountain. We stop again near what looks like a dam, which we then walk to. A huge water reservoir reveals an artificial lake behind us. It’s called—hold on tight!—Parkplatz Rosskrepp-Staudam Adger 2. After Suleskard, we turn right onto the Lyseveien scenic route. The landscapes remain gorgeous, with our small mountains and more distant peaks. We arrive at the famous Kjerag Café. This is where one of Norway’s most famous hikes starts—the one to Kjeragbolten, that round boulder wedged between two cliffs where thrill-seekers get photographed. Our timing’s a bit tight for the hike (a day of miscalculations). We stop at the café. Parking is free for the first two hours, so we enjoy the view from the top of the Lysefjord. I’d read trip reports about the road down to Lysebotn warning that you need to be a good driver, that it’s tricky, etc. But honestly, there are over twenty hairpin turns in just a few kilometers, yet it’s super easy—so easy that I barely have time to say « ouf » in Norwegian before I’m at the bottom. I miscalculated our travel time, so we arrived at the bottom of the fjord way too early. Too early compared to what? Simply put, I’d booked a ferry that crosses the fjord to Forsand. It’s not exactly a tourist ferry, but you sail across the fjord with your car at a reasonable price compared to the « tourist cruises ». You do need to book ahead, though, because it’s tiny (fits 20–25 cars). We wait while sipping coffee and taking photos. The cruise is amazing—those towering cliffs are impressive. We spot the famous Kjerag, but from our perspective, it looks like it’s 5 mm tall. Countless waterfalls cascade into the fjord, and a few houses seem lost—you wonder how they’re accessed if not by boat.

14- The cruise is fun!

We also see the famous Preikestolen from below.

15- There it is! The end of the trip, the wind picks up, so I bundle up in my puffer jacket (yes, I’m a cold wimp!). We arrive in Forsand around 9 PM, with 30 km left to Jorpeland and our hotel. Too late to find an open restaurant, so once again, it’s a dinner of snacks (we’d packed for this possibility).

The plus: The cruise on the Lysefjord The minus: My poorly calculated timing.

Day 9: Pulpit Rock and Stavanger – July 28 Hotel: Verkshotellelet in Jorpeland – Pretty basic but with another great breakfast. There was a kitchen attached to the room, which was handy for our setup.

YES, it’s not raining! We set off early to tackle the famous Pulpit Rock hike. The parking lot at the bottom is paid and already crowded. The climb is steep, but my knee’s holding up. 1 hour and 15 minutes later, I was at the top of the madness. If you love hiking to connect with nature, this might not be the spot—you’ll be connecting with hundreds of people instead.

16 - After seeing it from below, here’s the view from the top!

17 - Had to cheat to get a photo with hardly anyone in it!

I snapped a few pics while waiting for my partner, who was climbing a bit slower. Weird—she was taking her time. Then I spotted her, stopped about 50 meters from the top, waving her arms. I went back down, and turns out, with all those people around, she had a panic attack—she was terrified everyone would jump off the edge! No way to talk her down! After minutes of back-and-forth, we headed back down, which made me joke she’d climbed the *Almost*-Tolen. The descent was awful—not because of the difficulty, but because of the crowd going up. They were basically nose-to-backpack with the person in front of them.

RANT: I’ll be selfish here, but while it’s great that so many people come to do this hike, they could at least show some respect for others. I lost count of how many people, when the path narrowed and I let those climbing up go first, just stopped in the middle to take a photo, catch their breath, or even knit—without a care for the person waiting like an idiot. I have a certain vision, a certain ethic about mountain hiking, and I’ll admit, this place was far from it. I know it’s not just an exception—Cinque Terre, the Dolomites, they’re all victims of what we call overtourism. Back at the bottom, it took us longer to descend than to climb! We regrouped and headed to Stavanger, our next stop. We took the 14 km paid tunnel, which was pretty nerve-wracking under the fjord. Deep inside, blue lights made it feel like we were underwater! We had a picnic at Sverd i fjell, a lovely spot with a monument celebrating a Viking victory.

18 - Viking monument

Then we headed to our hotel. It was a bit early, but maybe our room would be ready. It was—a quick break, and then we set off to explore the city. We started nearby with Gamle Stavanger, an old district of wooden houses over two centuries old, painted in pretty colors. It was really charming. We reached the harbor, though the view was ruined by a massive cruise ship. We checked out the cathedral (closed) and then moved to the other side, Fargegaten, a newer area but also with lovely, colorful wooden houses. Despite the crowds—yes, the 3,000 cruisers were around—it was nice to wander the streets.

19 - Gamle Stavanger district

Back to the hotel (it’s uphill!) to relax, have a drink, and then head back down to the harbor for a seafood dinner. With the cruise ship gone, the harbor view was completely different. Lovely spot, Stavanger!

The plus: Stavanger and its two districts The minus: The insane crowds at Pulpit Rock

A tour of the cathedral (closed) and then it's the neighborhood on the other side, Fargegaten, more recent than the first but also with very pretty, colorful wooden houses. Despite the crowds—yes, the 3,000 cruisers are here—it's nice to wander through the streets. Back to the hotel (it's uphill!) to relax, have a drink, and head back down to the harbor for a fish meal. With the cruise ship gone, the view of the harbor isn't the same. Lovely spot, Stavanger

We really loved Stavanger, with or without cruisers. I have to say, the feeling isn't the same when 5,000 people disembark from a ship in a mid-sized city compared to when they flood a small village like FLÅM or GEIRANGER—there, it's really too much! We had planned to do the Preikestolen hike, but given the weather, slippery trails, and my recent fall, we swapped it for a super cool boat ride. Now, reading your post, I think we made the right call. After all, if it's just to take a photo like the thousands already online, what's the point?!

Day 10: The West Coast – July 29 Hotel: Comfort Hotel Square – Feels like a Best Western, so classic with another great breakfast. Today, a morning drive. It starts well because when I pick up my car from the paid parking lot near the hotel, I can’t print a ticket and therefore can’t pay. Since there are no barriers, just cameras, I hesitate to "make a run for it." I try to contact the company, still using my Southern Los Angeles-level English. After telling the guy when I arrived (the day before), he says he can’t find the camera footage of my car. There must have been a camera issue at that exact moment. So, he tells me to leave without paying and that there won’t be any problems. Cool, but that Big Brother vibe worries me a bit. We head up to Bergen. I thought I’d see a bit of the sea. While the road is good and the ferries are easy to take, with sheep grazing, we don’t see much of it. So, no impromptu stops, and we arrive in Bergen fairly early. I booked an apartment right in the center for two nights. There’s a washing machine, so this mid-trip break is welcome. The catch is that I planned to unpack the whole car to reorganize, hoping for nearby parking. Nope! It’s all pedestrian-only everywhere, which means a sweaty climb to the apartment, no elevator. No big deal, it’s doable. We end up having lunch in the apartment, and since the weather’s nice and I read that Bergen is the rainiest city in Norway, we take advantage and head up to Mount Fløyen for the view. In my head, I’d planned to hike up and take the funicular down to spare my knee. My partner agrees to the deal. In an hour, we hike up at a relaxed pace. It’s crowded up there, but the view is stunning.

20 - View of Bergen from Mount Fløyen

We take plenty of photos, check out the troll trail—it’s fun.

21 - A troll

Then, when it’s time to go down, we’re disappointed—there’s a huge line. I can’t estimate the wait time, but I’d guess it’s over two hours! So, we hike back down!!!! My knee is going to suffer! We stroll along Bergen’s docks, do some shopping, and head back to rest the beast (and my knee). Aperitif and back to the docks for a seafood restaurant (still super expensive!)

The +: The weather’s nice The -: The far-away parking in Bergen

Day 11: Exploring Bergen on foot – July 30 The weather’s misty, but it’s not raining, so that’s okay. Just a note that we did laundry, so we’re starting fresh!

I put together a little walking route. We start at Lille Lungegårdsvannet, with its fountain just 3 minutes from the apartment, then head toward the national theater. It’s not exactly amazing. Plus, there are tons of construction sites that force us to detour around buildings. Next, we pass through the Nøstet neighborhood, where you can wander through its cobblestone streets and admire the traditional wooden houses. It’s really pretty.

We quickly find ourselves at Klosteret square, then at the small white church of Nykirken. It’s closed (little grrr!).

We head back down toward the harbor, take a quick stroll through the Fish Market, sample some specialties offered by the vendors, and arrive at the Rosenkrantz Tower and the Festning fortress. Nothing too exciting. Then we wander through the narrow alleys of the Bryggen district and check out a few shops. A few raindrops start to fall, so we head back to the apartment to eat and take a break, making a tiny detour to the cathedral—once again, closed (grrr getting louder!).



22 - Bryggen in the mist

We have a meet-up at 3 PM at the Hanseatic Museum for a guided tour in French to learn more about the Bryggen district and the famous Hanseatic League. It’s great—the guide does a fantastic job explaining the history in the museum, where the buildings are just like they were back in the day! (I love that phrase, tossed around without any specifics: “Back in the day!”) The tour wraps up in the same areas we visited in the morning, where the guide points out a few special details. After the tour, we wander through the Fjellsiden neighborhood, where we see old, colorful wooden houses. One of them has a World War II cannon barrel instead of a chimney! A unique way to stay warm!



23 - A ray of sunshine over Fjellsiden

We pass by the cathedral again—this time it’s open. There’s a service going on. My very religious companion wants to go in and possibly attend the service. Personally, I’d wait outside. But she can’t even get in! She’ll be able to at the end, but only after paying a fee. (Big grrrr!) So, just so you know, churches in Norway are either closed to tourists, no matter their religion, or they charge you to enter!

Happy hour rolls around, so we head back to the apartment, do what we need to do, and then go out for a bite (expensive) in town.

The plus: Guided tour of the Hanseatic Museum The minus: Paying to enter churches that are “in use” and not just tourist sites (not or no longer consecrated)

Day 12: Heading to the Nærøyfjord – July 31 Hotel: Marken Studio Apartments: Super well-equipped, ideally located for exploring Bergen. Perfect if you don’t have a car, a bit dull otherwise. We left Bergen under the sun—this weather just won’t stop proving me wrong, and I’m not complaining. A peaceful and really pretty drive past lots of lakes, heading toward the Tvindefossen waterfall. I’d seen on AllTrails that you could hike from the bottom to the top of the falls. That was the plan. When we got there, parking was already a nightmare. So many vehicles, buses full of tourists (hey, what are *you* doing here?). We made our way to the base of the waterfall, waiting for the bus crowds who’d crossed the little barrier to take their photos right by the falls to clear out. Love that behavior!!!



25 - The waterfall

I then looked for the trail on my AllTrails map. Seriously, in Africa, lost in the savanna, I found insane trails, but here? Nothing. There were barriers and signs that seemed like warnings (written in Serbo-Norwegian, no less). So we left, heading toward Stalheim and the Stalheim Hotel. I’d read that you could enjoy the hotel terrace for a stunning view. And it’s true! It’s a lovely, quiet spot where lots of hikes start. I spotted one that begins at the bottom of the hotel and leads to Stalheimfossen. It wasn’t long, but it was really nice. The road continued, and we arrived in Gudvangen. This is where we boarded our second cruise-ferry, this time on the Nærøyfjord. A picnic in front of the fjord under the sun—amazing! There’s a Viking village nearby! Let’s dive into another era. It’s pretty well done—there are houses, huts, Vikings, weapons, an imposing chief, Viking women, activities, battles, horseshoe tossing, stick throwing, archery, axe throwing, chickens (no, we don’t throw them), and tourists (them neither). All in good spirits. We had a great time.



26 - Viking Hut

We then parked the car in the ferry queue, grabbed a coffee and a pastry while we waited. Darn, a few raindrops! Luckily, it stopped as soon as we were on the boat. We set off for a 2.5-hour trip! At first, we sailed between the towering, narrow cliffs of the Nærøyfjord. Like the previous fjord, the boat was a ferry, but the captain got close to the sights—a beautiful house, a waterfall, etc. We continued onto the wider Aurlandsfjord before finishing on the Sognefjord and arriving in Kaupanger.



27 - The Nærøyfjord

During the trip, since we were right by the cabin chatting with an Italian couple, the captain came over and started a conversation with all four of us. I love these kinds of chats. The Italians started sharing their thoughts on Norway, with him saying we weren’t driving fast enough. The captain talked about his experience—he’d done a lot of sailing, including a round-the-world trip (for example), and competitions. Mostly, he shared his perspective on modern Norway. While Norwegians have always lived close to nature, their current approach to ecology comes mainly from the country’s massive oil wealth!! With money, you can do things! He was pretty annoyed by some things, especially the intensive salmon farming, which, he said, makes it hard and expensive to find good salmon. Like any sailor, he regretted the influx of cruise ships, especially on the Lofoten Islands, which he felt had lost their authenticity compared to how he remembered them. The conversation lasted until we arrived, with him leaving the approach to his first mate. I really enjoyed that moment, not taking everything as gospel (can you tell I’ve visited churches?), but it gave a real sense of perspective. After this maritime interlude, we hit the road again to visit the Kaupanger Stave Church and continued to our next accommodation—a cute little chalet where we’d have dinner.



28 - Kaupanger Stave Church The plus: The “cruise-ferry” again with its stunning views, plus the chat with the captain. The minus: I never found my Tvindefossen trail.

Thanks for this really enjoyable travel journal. Just like you, I really loved visiting the Fram in Oslo. That was back in 2003, but I still have great memories of it. Honestly, the influx of tourists in places where these cruise ship giants dock is pretty overwhelming. Your "parking" adventure reminds me of the same thing that happened to us this June in Kristiansand—our Belgian license plate wasn’t recognized. Since there were no barriers in the parking lot, we just drove out without paying! Your itinerary is super nice and brings back some great memories for me. Can’t wait to read the rest, Vivien

Thanks Vivien. More to come. See you later!