Back from Sri Lanka: itinerary and hikes

Hi there, We’re just back from a three-week trip to Sri Lanka, from July 15 to August 11. A few random tips—if you’ve got more specific questions, just ask. If we know the answer, we’ll be happy to help!

What an amazing country! I had a small bias at first, wasn’t totally convinced, but that disappeared fast. Stunning coastal and mountain landscapes, cultural visits, hikes, and such a warm welcome.

Here’s our itinerary in order: Colombo-Anuradhapura-Trincomalee-Polonnaruwa-Dambulla-Sigiriya-Kandy-Haputale-Ella-Tangalle-Galle-Negombo.

Whenever we can, we travel only by public transport, and in Sri Lanka, it’s totally doable. Trains, of course, and buses all the time—everywhere and super cheap. We’d head to the bus station to get a seat, but they also stop along the route. From the airport to Colombo Fort, take bus 187—it’s parked on the right as you exit.

Weather-wise, despite it being the less favorable season for some regions, we only had two half-days of rain. That was one of our worries, but maybe we just got lucky.

For hiking, beyond the well-known climbs in all the guidebooks and blogs (which are great too), there’s a long-distance trail in the mountain region (Kandy, Ella, etc.) that’s really well marked. It’s called the Pekoe Trail, and there’s an app you can download (Pekoe Trail) that gives you the full route and details for each stage—25 in total, I think, ranging from 9 to 15 km. We did 4 of them, not in a row, but starting from our different accommodations. They’re not loops, but you can always find a bus, train, or tuk-tuk to get back or to reach the end of a stage and return. The landscapes are beautiful, the encounters plentiful, and tourists are rare—which is nice sometimes.

Happy travels!

Hi Bruno, I’m planning a 3-week trip to Sri Lanka for February 2026. Could you give me some advice on places to avoid because they’re too touristy or too "commercialized," as is often the case? Or maybe the traps around sunrise or sunset spots where you think you’ll be alone, but it’s really not the case at all! Thanks in advance. Best, Nicole

Hi Nicole,

Sri Lanka has a lot of tourists, but it was in Ella where we felt the tourist presence and the "commercialization" the most. It’s a village full of shops, accommodations, and Ayurvedic massage parlors. It’s a bit unavoidable since it’s the endpoint of the beautiful train ride from Kandy. The view from Ella’s Rock is lovely but not a must-see—don’t plan too much time there. Haputale in the same region is more authentic; you can also visit tea plantations there, and it’s less crowded. In this mountainous area, if you really want peace and quiet, there are the hikes on the Peako trail.

Sigiriya is also a bit "over-touristed," but Lion Rock is worth the visit. You can watch the sunrise or sunset over Lion Rock from Pidurangala Rock. We didn’t do it, but we met people who went—so many people that some couldn’t even go up. We went in the afternoon, and it was really beautiful and very quiet.

For sightseeing spots, to avoid crowds, it’s best to go early or during the midday break.

The beaches on the south coast, especially Tangalle, aren’t "swimmable" this time of year due to currents from the monsoon, but they’re still very beautiful. We had great weather, and there were hardly any people. We also went to the east coast, Trincomalee—no monsoon there and not too many people either.

Hope I’ve answered your questions!

Don’t hesitate if you have any more.

Bruno

Thanks Bruno for this feedback. Indeed, the agencies I contacted mentioned lots of tourists. It’s really taking off!! Good luck to us trying not to get too caught up in the trend! Best, Nicole

Hi there,

For a region that’s truly less touristy, head to Jaffna—my absolute favorite in Sri Lanka!

Few travelers go there because it’s a bit out of the way, and especially because this area was heavily affected by the civil war, leading many to mistakenly think it’s risky to visit. The war ended in 2009, and there’s no issue at all now. The interactions with locals on the Jaffna peninsula are incredibly authentic, and they’re thrilled to welcome foreigners. Several even asked me to take selfies with them, including a police officer and a soldier.

That said, I’m not sure if it’s the right season to go—I was there in June/July.

Thanks for this feedback. Jaffna is part of our itinerary—I really didn’t want to miss it. You have to ask for it because it’s rarely included in standard tours! Hope it’ll be the highlight among all the rest!

Hi Bruno

I thought I was going to cry reading your message. I, who can’t stand running into too many tourists (Europeans) during my trips, have to admit you really put me off. I saw that it wasn’t possible to climb the country’s highest peak, but tell me, are there other summits/hikes to do in this country? The GR you mentioned—is it always in the forest, or are there still viewpoints?

Another thing: we’re arriving at 3:00 AM in Colombo. Do you think the 187 bus runs at night too?

Thanks for your answers.

Xavier

Hi Xavier, No, bus 187 doesn’t run at night—it starts at 5:30 AM. If you search "bus 187 airport Sri Lanka," you’ll find info on airport transport. We didn’t do the full Pekoe Trail—26 stages, I think. Out of our 4 stages, there were indeed viewpoints, one of them goes via Ella’s Rock, for example, and no tourists (well, except at Ella’s Rock...). You can download the app. There’s also the option to hike in the Knuckles Range—it seems tough without a guide. That’s what hikers who’d been there told us. Searching "hikes KNUCKLES RANGE" will give you the details. That’s all. Sorry for killing your vibe... If you’ve got other questions, don’t hesitate.

Bruno

May I join your conversation?

Indeed, since the end of the war and the restrictive COVID measures, this beautiful country has become very touristy. Lots of travelers from Eastern Europe, many Russians, and Asians. These nationalities have far outnumbered tourists from countries near France.

If you want to avoid the crowds, most of these tourists travel by bus or with a private driver. Their itineraries take them to historical sites (Sigiriya, Polonaruwa, Anuradhapura, Dambulla), then a tour of Kandy, where they take the train to Ella. On the way down south, they do a safari before settling by the beaches. They visit Galle and return to Colombo.

To avoid the crowds even more, you’ll need to travel outside the tourist season (December to April) and skip the historical sites.

For Russians, charter flights have taken over the southern airport but stop their rotations in April. Their presence in the south and on the west coast is noticeable—shops display signs in Cyrillic.

Just to be clear, my goal isn’t to discourage your plans but to update the outdated image of this country where tourism has exploded in recent years.

To get from the airport to Colombo at night, a taxi costs 20 €, but I’d recommend finishing the night in Negombo and heading to Colombo in the morning.

For treks and hiking: - In the Knuckles Range, yes, you need a guide. - Horton Plains from Nuwara Eliya, but leave at dawn because it gets crowded later. - Adam’s Peak can be done independently. - For the Pekoe Trail, you’ll need to pay for the app, then you can select the stages you like.

Happy planning!

Thanks to both of you for your invaluable tips.

This weekend, my partner and I are brainstorming.

We’ll try to draft a rough itinerary.

I’ll reach out again if we need more details.

Have a great evening