Preparing for a trip to Sri Lanka (page 1 of 3)

Hi everyone.

The tickets for SRI LANKA are booked—arriving in COLOMBO on 12/21 and returning from the same place on 01/17. I’ve read here and there that it’ll be high season, but we don’t have a choice, so we’ll make do...

My first question is obviously about the itinerary: Most of the ones I’ve seen go clockwise, and I’m wondering if I should do it the other way: - To avoid the cultural triangle between Christmas and New Year’s - To start with a bit of rest (we’re really wiped out) Does that make sense?

My second question is about the time allocated to each stop, which you’ll find below. Is it balanced? Too much here and not enough there?

My third question will be about Jaffna: yes or no? How long is the trip from Anuradhapura? Where can I fit in the 3 days needed?



Thanks for your replies. A few details: ultra-independent travelers, using public transport, hikers, minimum 2 nights per accommodation. First time in Sri Lanka! !

My first question obviously concerns the itinerary: Most of the ones I see are clockwise, and I’m wondering if I should do it the other way around:

Good evening, According to Buddhist tradition, to ensure everything goes smoothly and for spiritual progression, it’s best to go clockwise ;)

My first question obviously concerns the itinerary: Most of the ones I see are clockwise, and I’m wondering if I should do it the other way around:

Good evening, According to Buddhist tradition, to ensure everything goes smoothly, it’s best to do it clockwise😉

There’s the explanation! But I’m not Buddhist 🤪

Good evening Montagnard,

Here’s my take: three nights in Galle is a lot—the fort can be visited in a morning, unless you want to rest after your trip. If so, move on and relax in Tangalle or save Kalpitiya for the end of your stay.

I’ve long avoided Ella in favor of Haputale, especially on 12/31, unless you’re up for a big New Year’s rave.

To get to Dalhousie, take the train to Hatton first, then a two-hour bus ride. But I’d suggest hitting Nuwara Eliya before Hatton, then Kandy as planned.

Otherwise, you’ve got it right—a big thumbs-down for Negombo except to make your airport return easier.

That said, it’s *essential* to book all your accommodations *now*—it’s packed everywhere at this time of year! Especially on the south coast and in Ella. Plus, there might be public holidays in your itinerary. On 12/31, I remember they set off *huge* firecrackers all night long!

Happy planning!

Just re-reading and adding: You're heading to Nuwara Eliya—there’s not much to see besides British architecture and the climate, but most importantly, make sure to visit Horton Plains National Park!

If you're planning to climb Adam's Peak from Dalhousie, it’s an amazing shared experience with the pilgrims. Most people spend one night there, but I see you’ve planned two. I’d suggest heading to Dickoya near Hatton and staying at the Princess of Dickoya to rest after the descent! It’s close to Hatton for the bus or train to Kandy.

Most of the ones I see are clockwise

Because usually, you rest at the end of the trip, not at the beginning...

I hope the comfort of the trains has improved because the Colombo-Galle route was the worst journey I’ve ever taken... (Like the RER C at rush hour, with more people standing than sitting in an old-school carriage)

Make a stop in Ratnapura to visit the sapphire mines and why not buy one for Christmas? The missus will be thrilled! 😏 PS: They provide authenticity certificates. There was talk about trains. Back when I visited Sri Lanka (Ceylon), they were always breaking down! I never actually reached my destination directly—I always ended up walking along the tracks! And you could hop on pretty much anywhere along the railway line 😏 The buses, on the other hand, would sometimes start the engine an hour before departure. We’d be packed in like sardines, waiting in the blazing sun!

The trains have been upgraded, but they still sell just as many tickets... and it's the same with buses as it is with trains

Hi Ben, and thanks for your invaluable tips—I think I’ve found my go-to expert 😉

I’ve penciled in one fewer day in Galle to add Kalpitiya; is 3 nights too much? (I’m not a surfer.)

Haputale instead of Ella, but I’m hearing that from others too.

Dalousie was really just for Adam’s Peak—I’ll note Princess of Dickoya, but only on the way back?

Negombo is indeed for the flight.

Any thoughts on Jaffna?

I’d love to do a safari. I had Udawalawe in my sights, but it seems super touristy. Any opinions on Yala? Too far? More than animals, I’m after the vibe...

Thanks again

Most of the ones I see are clockwise

Because usually, you rest at the end of the trip, not at the beginning...

I hope the comfort of the trains has improved because the Colombo-Galle trip was the worst I’ve ever taken... (Like the RER C at rush hour with more people standing than sitting in an old-school carriage)

Given the work, looks like we’ll have to do both...

Stop in Ratnapura to visit the sapphire mines and why not buy one for Christmas? The missus will be thrilled! PS: They provide authenticity certificates.

I’ll keep this tip to myself

I don’t think it’s necessary to stay more than one night in Udawalawe. Either you do the safari in the late afternoon or at dawn the next day, but then head to the mountains after the safari. Yes, it’s very touristy, but it’s also magical—just ignore the line of jeeps and enjoy the view!

If you want to buy a gemstone or semi-precious stone in Sri Lanka, be prepared for people in France to smile at your purchase when you get back. Your certificate of authenticity won’t be much help—I’ve tested this for you...

I don’t think it’s necessary to stay more than one night in Udawalawe. Either you do the safari in the late afternoon or at dawn the next day, but then head to the mountains after the safari.

With all these extra nights freed up, we can now consider Jaffna... So, is it doable to go straight from Udawalawe to Haputale?

To buy a gemstone or semi-precious stone in Sri Lanka, you have to accept that when you get back to France, people will look at your purchase with a smile—your certificate of authenticity will be pretty useless. I’ve tested this for you...

This reminds me of that gorgeous tanzanite/diamond set I put around my girlfriend’s neck in South Africa at a chic jewelry store in Franschhoek: “Not expensive,” the lady said—200,000 rands, which my converter translated to 1,200 €. I was about to buy it for her—it was stunning—but I double-checked the amount before entering my card PIN... Turns out, a decimal error in their favor: 12,000 €, my good sir! The set came out of its case, and we came out of the jewelry store! Without it, of course!

Comma error in your favor—12,000 €, my good sir! The necklace left its case, and we left the jewelry store! Without it, of course! 😄

Ugh, it’s so tiny! (😛)

I’ve only been to Sri Lanka once, a month by motorbike (it wasn’t exactly a restful trip 😉) and I can’t help you with the details of the itinerary, but overall it seems to match perfectly with what you’re looking for right now and your way of traveling (carpe diem), even more so with the end of the stay by the lagoon. 😇 We didn’t go all the way to Jaffna but we did head up the east coast (Tamil) as far as Vakarai.

To buy a precious or semi-precious stone in Sri Lanka, you have to accept that when you return to France, your purchase will be met with a smile, and your certificate of authenticity will remain completely useless—I tested it for you...

My parents bought a sapphire in 1975.

French customs officials found it authentic enough to issue a fine for not declaring it...

The French jeweler who set it into a ring had no complaints about the stone.

Different times, different customs?

I know a perfect hotel to relax at the end of the trip, but I'm keeping it to myself...😇😉

I know a perfect hotel to relax at the end of the trip, but I’m keeping it to myself...😉

A PM, a PM!! 😛 That said, for the last accommodation tip, I’m waiting for Cetelem’s reply to book…

It’s the same architect, but in Negombo this time... 😉

Prices must’ve taken a huge leap in the last 20 years. 🤪

A time machine would be way more effective than Cetelem! 😄

Yes, after your safari, from Udawalawe you head to Tanamalwila junction and take a bus up to Wellawaya. With a bit of luck, this bus goes all the way to Bandarawela (passing through Ella), where you can negotiate a tuk-tuk to Haputale. Otherwise, at Wellawaya bus station, you switch to another bus for Haputale. The locals are really helpful when you ask for directions. Another nice spot, since you’ve got extra days: the Knuckles range. If you like hiking, I’d recommend going—it’s about an hour east of Kandy. I’ve got three places to stay if you’re interested.