Back from a 3-week trip to South Africa and Mozambique

Hi everyone, We’ve just returned from a 3-week trip to South Africa: 2 weeks in Kruger Park, Manyeleti, and White River 5 days in Vilankulo 1 day in Johannesburg If you have any questions or are planning your trip, don’t hesitate! 🙂

Was it good?

Very diverse encounters with South Africans—sometimes a bit cold, sometimes really insightful about their daily lives. Reality is always more complex and multi-faceted than what’s endlessly repeated on news channels.... Apartheid isn’t resolved; some white people claim it’s now reversed Apartheid, with all the jobs going to Black people and nothing for white people. The most beautiful properties and private game reserves still remain in the hands of white people. We really appreciated the excellent organization of Kruger Park and its rest camps, as well as the road, track, and loop signage, which made navigation inside the park very easy. There were often buses packed with South African children visiting Kruger Park for the day with their teachers—it’s so important for ensuring the park’s future. The sunset game drive at Satara was a great success, with a ranger full of humor who let us observe a few lionesses and a lion that had just filled its belly, while a flock of vultures gathered to finish off the leftovers! This ranger even philosophized about the meaning of a safari: being in the right place at the right time, and that’s it! 😎

As for us, we spotted some well-hidden leopards by the river thanks to being near a professional photographer who had already spotted them—otherwise, they would’ve easily slipped past us! Over time, we picked up a few tricks to slightly boost our chances of a successful sighting: it might sound obvious, but you should prioritize areas near rivers, where there was still water, where elephants knew how to pump it from under the sand! Don’t rush, let things come to you, and also make use of hides to see without being seen🙂

I'm really glad to hear the game drives were successful... in the bush, it's almost nothing for ages and then suddenly... the spot! yeah, South African soil is still very marked by its past, but it's getting better... I've witnessed that over the last 25 years. what's more, many private reserves are now co-managed by local communities...

Good evening Laurène, What a wonderful trip! I’m particularly interested in the stretch between White River and Vilankulo. Were you able to cross from one country to another with a rental car? And what can you tell me about Vilankulo? The hospitality, the vibe, the landscapes? Thanks! 😊

Hi Solène, From White River to Vilankulo: we took an Airlink flight, 1 hour in the air with a stunning aerial view of Mozambique’s coastline. We didn’t even consider driving all the way to Vilankulo—after 12 days in Kruger Park, we just wanted to relax for 5 days in Vilankulo.

Vilankulo is a small town on the Indian Ocean, poor but lively. We stayed at Telvina Beach Lodge, and it was an excellent choice: just 30 meters from the beach, spotless rooms, two pools, adorable staff, and a cool Portuguese owner who’s very attentive to guests. The food was ultra-fresh, and the grilled tiger prawns were divine! Vilankulo is safe—unlike Maputo, according to locals. Still, when you’re white, you *really* stand out , so don’t be surprised if you get approached a lot at the market! On our first day, we were walking on the beach when a young guy came up to offer excursions, shops, etc.—friendly but a little persistent. Turns out he was a "middleman" bringing white tourists to his compatriots who run souvenir shops or boats to the Bazaruto Archipelago. He earns a commission, and we paid him for his help. Thanks to him, we could visit the market without constant solicitations and bought some fabric to have four cushion covers made. A great result—beautiful work, we were happy, and the tailor wrapped it up by saying, "This is a nice day!" That’s when we realized we probably didn’t negotiate enough , but I think it’s fair to pay more than a Mozambican local!

The hotel had these adorable little wooden sea turtles! We asked Romeo to find us identical ones. A wooden souvenir shop had the same turtles but unfinished—no varnish or paint. We negotiated to have them painted and varnished. No problem, we came back to pick up our freshly painted turtles—great work again, we were thrilled. Luckily, we’d agreed on a price upfront, but that didn’t stop the shop owner from asking for extra money because it was "special work"—"I work hard, I have a family to feed," etc. This time, I stood my ground: a deal’s a deal, no take-backs! We paid around 20 € for the two turtles. Later, the hotel owner told us she’d had about twenty made for 50 €!! 😕 Okay, fine, that’s the price for clueless white tourists, so watch your negotiations—they’re *good*. I’m happy to pay more than Mozambicans, but don’t push it! The average monthly salary in Mozambique is 65 €, so I’m all for boosting their income, but let’s not get taken for a cash cow!

Excursion: We did a trip to the Bazaruto and Benguerra Islands with a grilled lunch in the shade on an almost deserted beach. Bazaruto has stunning sand dunes—just be careful if you climb them, the sand burns your feet instantly. Bring shoes to avoid burns! There’s a small lake on Bazaruto with crocodiles—I didn’t go near it with my burned feet 😕. The meal was delicious; they *really* know how to grill fish and shrimp! 🙂 We went snorkeling at 2 Mile Reef—it was pretty choppy, and the boat crew kept a close eye on us. We saw a turtle coming up for air and some tropical fish schools, but we were a little disappointed compared to the marine diversity in Indonesia or Papua.

Benguerra is a small, flat island with gorgeous, pristine white-sand beaches. How do they keep these islands so immaculate, with almost no trash in the water or on the shore? It’s a major attraction for Vilankulo, so in tourist season (not September), there must be a lot of boats docking? There were two rangers stationed in the shade near the beaches on Bazaruto, tasked with preserving the island, and from what I saw, they were doing a great job. Let’s hope they keep these little gems of the end of the world intact.

That’s my take on Mozambique: you’re in Africa, so be supportive but don’t get ripped off . It’s true that the colonial period showed how whites exploited Black people and their countries’ resources!

As for South Africa, it’s totally different—we were never approached on the street, and people barely even noticed us! Most folks have stable jobs, which makes all the difference in behavior compared to Mozambicans, who have to hustle every day just to put food on the table.

Have a great trip to Mozambique! 🙂

Hi there, For Mozambique, did you fly from White River? Where did you return your rental car? I assume flights from Johannesburg are available? Thanks.

we took the plane from Nelspruit KMIA airport, a direct flight to Vilankulo. We returned the car at that airport without any issues. There are also flights from Joburg. We flew back to Joburg directly from Vilankulo.

Ok, thanks!

Thanks so much for all these detailed tips, Laurène. I’ve already traveled through South Africa, but it lacks a bit of "brotherhood" for my taste if you know what I mean 😅. On the other hand, I’ve been dreaming of going back to Kruger, and you’ve given me some really interesting ideas for combining it with Mozambique. Especially since we love laughing with those who try to "rip us off," so we should have fun there 😄. I’ll get back to you if this becomes a reality. Have a great weekend! Christelle

If you rent a 4x4, you can drive from South Africa to Mozambique through Kruger.

If you rent a regular car, you’ll have to exit Kruger to cross the border and then drive to... (That’s the option I went with).

If you rent a 4x4, you can go from South Africa to Mozambique through Kruger.

If you rent a regular car, you have to exit Kruger to cross the border and then drive to... (That’s the option I took).

Isn’t it a bit of an adventure through Kruger?

Thanks Agnès. It’s another interesting option, but it seems a tad ambitious for us. We’ll see! 😊

I didn’t cross any borders in Kruger. One option is widely doable, while the other, which leads to Vilanculos, is known to be much more rugged. 4x4 required.

By road, it’s like any other border from South Africa.😉 Not as complicated as Botswana-Zambia.

Hi there,

Thanks for sharing your experience! I have two questions, the first one is about the VISA.

- When arriving from France, is it necessary to get a visa before leaving, or is it issued on arrival at the airport? Is there a fee? How long is it valid for?

- Are any vaccines required (yellow fever)?

I’m asking because you find all sorts of conflicting info online. Nothing beats recent firsthand experience! Thanks in advance.

Patricia

For France, no visa is required before departure. Upon arrival at passport control, they’ll stamp your passport with a nice entry stamp, and that’s it—it’s valid for 30 days for tourist stays, of course. However, if you want to go to Mozambique, the entry visa costs 650 Mzn and is issued on arrival (you can also pay in Rand).

There’s no yellow fever vaccination requirement for French nationals, unless you’ve transited through a country affected by yellow fever.

On the other hand, if you’re visiting Kruger Park, it’s highly recommended to take preventive malaria treatment—check with your doctor.

Also, make sure to get travel insurance covering medical assistance and repatriation, as healthcare is very expensive in South Africa, and you won’t be able to access a hospital without proof of medical insurance. Sick? Okay, you pay first!

Thanks so much for your reply!

About the visa (stamp), you mentioned it’s valid for 30 days, but on the France Diplomatie website, this is what’s written—which is why we’re worried (since we plan to stay for 3 months). Unfortunately, the South African Embassy in Paris isn’t answering calls or emails (we’ve been trying to reach them for over a month).

So, you’re confirming that the visa issued on arrival was only valid for 30 days? Because here’s what’s stated on the France Diplomatie site:

Stays of less than 90 days For tourist stays in South Africa of less than 90 days, holders of a French passport (ordinary, diplomatic, or service) are exempt from a prior visa. A 90-day visitor’s permit will be issued at the border upon entry into South African territory. The passport must have at least two blank pages and remain valid for 30 days after the planned departure date from South Africa. Otherwise, travelers may be denied entry. For stays exceeding 90 days, it’s possible, under certain conditions, to extend your stay by an additional 3 months by applying for a visa extension at least 60 days before its expiration with the South African immigration services. For stays of less than 90 days that are not tourist-related (internships, volunteering, etc.), it’s mandatory to apply for the appropriate visa before departure at the South African Embassy in Paris.

Thanks so much for your reply!

About the visa (stamp), you mentioned it’s valid for 30 days, but on the France Diplomatie website, here’s what’s written—which is why we’re worried (since we plan to stay for 3 months). Unfortunately, the South African Embassy in Paris isn’t answering calls or emails (we’ve been trying to reach them for over a month).

So, you’re confirming that the visa issued on arrival was only valid for 30 days? Because here’s what’s stated on the France Diplomatie site:

Stays under 90 days For tourist stays in South Africa of less than 90 days, holders of a French passport (ordinary, diplomatic, or service) are exempt from a prior visa. A 90-day visitor’s permit will be issued at the border upon entry into South African territory. The passport must have two blank pages and remain valid for at least 30 days after the planned departure date from South Africa. Otherwise, travelers may be denied entry. For stays exceeding 90 days, it’s possible, under certain conditions, to extend your stay for an additional 3 months by applying for a visa extension at least 60 days before its expiration with the South African immigration services. For non-tourist stays of less than 90 days (internships, volunteering, etc.), it’s mandatory to apply for the appropriate visa before departure at the South African Embassy in Paris.

I just checked my passport: they gave me a 3-month visa, with entry on September 3 and exit no later than December 2, 2025. Since we only stayed for 3 weeks, there was no issue. Are you going for tourism?

Thanks for your confirmation. Yes, we’re heading there for tourism. We’ll be shipping our 4x4 in a container to CAPE TOWN and traveling around Southern Africa for several months, with a break to return to FRANCE during the French summer and the peak season in Southern Africa. We’ve already been there in 2007 for 5 weeks (South Africa, Namibia, Botswana) with a rental 4x4.