Langtang – Trekking in the Rain

We did the Langtang trek (hike) from September 10th to 17th, with the first and last days being the trip from Kathmandu and back—so 6 days of actual walking. It’s a fairly well-known trek but certainly not as famous or crowded as those in the Annapurna or Everest regions, which is why we chose it.

In theory, it’s mandatory to have a guide for this trek. In reality, it seems there are ways to bypass the regulations: we met at least two people hiking without a guide—a South Korean, a New Zealander, and possibly also a couple of English women and an American couple, though we’re not sure if they had a guide.

The agency we booked with had told us it was an affordable trek for relatively older people in good shape—which is our case (I’m 72 myself). I have to say upfront that we found it quite challenging, maybe because we didn’t have good weather—it was the end of the monsoon season. To be clear, no matter your fitness level, I’d say doing this trek in the middle of the monsoon season would be suicidal.

Day 1 – Journey from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi

On Monday, September 8th, there had been violent protests in Kathmandu against the government, which had, among other things, blocked access to social media and been accused of nepotism and corruption. There were 19 deaths. The situation was very tense on the day of our departure, Wednesday the 10th. The agency warned us that public transport was very unreliable. So, we decided to take a jeep, at an additional cost of $100 ($160 minus what was already budgeted for the bus).

We left a little before 7 a.m. and it took us a good hour just to reach the outskirts of Kathmandu. Along the way, we saw several houses and vehicles set on fire by protesters.

The road to Syapru Besi is only 120 km, but it’s frankly awful. It’s always narrow, winds through endless mountains, and the shoulders range from bad to confusing to nonexistent. Several sections are just dirt tracks. We didn’t regret opting for the jeep, as we could stop several times at our convenience—if only to let Y (my Thai partner) throw up everything she had. She’d taken her usual motion sickness medication, but the constant turns, accelerations, and braking eventually made her terribly carsick.

In Nuwakot, we stopped for breakfast at a nice little restaurant, Jimbu. It was around 8:30 a.m., and we’d barely covered 60 km. The restaurant has a lovely garden overlooking the Trishuli Ganga, the river flowing down from Syapru Besi. First photo: the river in the bottom right corner, mist and clouds over the mountain on the other side.

An hour later, my second photo: the hills along the Trishuli Ganga. You can see the different crops—lush green rice paddies in the lower right and corn, already yellowed and likely harvested, in the foreground on the left. And of course, the mist and clouds through which you can glimpse the mountain on the other side of the river.

You had an amazing experience. However, I think your agency really overcharged you because the Langtang isn’t the most accessible massif—it’s actually quite challenging. Even though the Langtang Valley is the most accessible part, especially at the end of the monsoon season, it can still rain a lot, particularly on the section with frequent landslides between Syabru Besi and Bamboo.

On another note, I think your post got cut off because you only shared Day 1, and based on how you write, I’m guessing you planned to post your experience day by day! 🙂

You had a great experience. However, I think your agency went too far calling the Langtang trek "accessible"—it’s not the easiest range to reach. In fact, it’s quite challenging, even though the Langtang Valley is the most accessible part. Especially at the end of monsoon season, it can rain a lot, particularly on the section with frequent landslides between Syabru Besi and Bamboo.

I also think your post got cut off because you only shared Day 1, and based on how you write, I’m guessing you planned to post your experience day by day. 🙂

Hi Terry,

Thanks for reposting my thread so quickly! You’re right—I’ll be sharing my story in chunks, so more to come soon!

I completely agree—calling the Langtang trek "accessible" isn’t accurate. Many describe the Langtang Valley as "remote" (in English), meaning isolated/difficult to access, and that matches our experience.

To be honest, this isn’t an easy trek. Less than half the people I know would’ve made it!

My bad then—I was being impatient! :)

Yeah, some people call the region "accessible" because it’s often chosen as an alternative to the more touristy areas (Sagarmatha & Annapurna) and because it’s relatively easy to reach by road since it’s close to Kathmandu (less than a day’s travel). Even though the journey isn’t that short, especially with this year’s monsoon causing serious damage in the region and on the roads...

I agree with you—many people aren’t physically prepared for it, which is why it’s one of the areas with the most issues related to acute mountain sickness, proportionally to the number of visitors. The distances are short, you gain altitude quickly, and those who need more time to acclimatize can find themselves in trouble. In short, it’s a stunning area but definitely shouldn’t be underestimated! 🙂

hi,

We did the Langtang trek (hike) from September 10th to 17th, with the first and last days being the trip from Kathmandu and back—so 6 days of actual walking. It’s a fairly well-known trek but definitely not as famous or crowded as those in Annapurna or Everest, which is why we chose it.

What a crazy idea to do that during monsoon season! Didn’t you have any other choice? If you were going to get soaked anyway, you should’ve picked August to go from Syabru Besi to the sacred Gosainkund lakes during the Hindu pilgrimage!

The road to Syapru Besi is only 120 km, but it’s absolutely terrible. It’s always narrow, winds through endless mountains, and the shoulders range from bad to confusing to nonexistent. Several sections are just dirt tracks, etc. We didn’t regret opting for the jeep, since we could stop whenever we wanted—if only to let Y (my Thai girlfriend) throw up everything she could. She’d taken her usual motion sickness meds, but the constant turns, accelerations, and braking eventually gave her awful car sickness.

Well, I see that not much has changed in 20 or 30 years when it comes to "road" improvements. That must’ve been no fun for your girlfriend! You should’ve gone to Langtang via Helambu—it’s not much harder except for the Laurebina Pass, and the starting point is only 30 or 40 km from KTM (Sundarijal). The Langtang Valley must’ve undergone quite a few changes since the 2015 earthquake, which completely destroyed the village of Langtang. Back in the '80s, there was also a massive landslide before Langtang village—the spot is actually labeled "landslide" on trekking maps... Is the cheese factory still open at Kyangjin Gompa? When I was younger, I would’ve recommended doing the return trip via the Ganja La (5,200m)—2 or 3 days without seeing a soul and mandatory camping...

Cheese production is still going on, yes! :)

Regarding AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), I don’t quite agree—we don’t go above 3600 or 3800 at most at Kyangin Gompa, and the ascent is gradual. On the Sagarmatha route (toward Everest Base Camp), you land at 2800 m in Lukla, and on the very first day, you pass 3600 m at Namche Bazaar! I had a bit of a headache there.

Day 1 – Journey from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi (Continued) Around 11 a.m., bumping along and shaken like proverbial sacks of potatoes in the jeep—which is sturdy, sure, but far from comfortable—we arrive at the checkpoint for entering Langtang National Park, just before Dhunche Bazar, about twenty kilometers from Syapru Besi. There had been one or two checks earlier, I think when crossing from one district to another, but those were just a matter of minutes while our guide registered our passage.

This time, it takes a bit longer. Maybe half an hour? The first photo is of a large sign showing the park map. As someone who loves maps, I’m in heaven—this one is excellent! The location map (top left) shows the region borders China (actually Tibet). "Shyaphrubesi" = Syapru Besi, the trek’s starting point, is in the middle left, at the park’s western edge.

The second photo is a close-up of the trek. The place names are confusing. Our first stop will be at Lama Hotel, which is between Rimche and Ghodatabela (according to the sign), and more precisely at the bend of the Langtang River, where its course changes direction (from west/east to southwest/northeast). The third stop will be at Kyanjing Gompa, just below the red "Langtang" on the map, at the mouth of a glacier descending north/south from Langtang Lirung. Langtang Lirung is the highest point, at 7,227 meters, in a range that runs along the Tibet border.

As for the second stop, at Langtang, it’s between the two. According to the map I got in Kathmandu, it’s probably around Ghodatabela (in red).

The third photo: the sign showing park entry fees. For foreigners, it’s 3,000 rupees per person, or about 18-20 € or 21-22 $. I’m giving approximate prices, of course—exchange rates change pretty quickly!

We stop around noon at Dhunche Bazar, or is it already Thulo Bharkhu? We’re made to wait a good hour in a restaurant, well past the time we needed for a light meal. We gather there’s a blockage farther up the road, and we have to wait for police clearance to continue. This gives us a chance to meet a group of 5 or 6 Israelis who are also doing the trek. I didn’t recognize them as Israelis at first because they were behaving discreetly and speaking quietly.

Finally, we get the green light from the police, which ends a great discussion I was having with one of the Israelis about our origins and respective dialects (to clarify: I’m not Jewish).

And we arrive at the massive landslide blocking the road. The only road, clinging to the mountainside right above the raging Trishuli Ganga, which flows a good 200 meters below... My fourth photo: Y and our guide H, and just at the foot of the landslide, our porter S. Just look at the size of the rocks that tumbled down and completely cut off the road! (Terry mentioned landslides—he’ll be happy!). On the left of the photo, the smooth concrete reinforcement of the road—from there, you’d fall straight into the river! (Fifth photo). We can only continue on foot, clambering as best we can over the landslide (sixth photo). Okay, I like giving my readers chills: it’s not just the rocks, of all sizes in a terrible jumble, some ready to give way underfoot! There’s also a narrow but furious stream trying to force its way through, pushing the rubble along, and we have to cross that too.

Once we reach the other side, thankfully, we only have 2 kilometers left to walk to Syapru Besi, without any other incidents on the road. The landslide will mark the actual starting point of our trek!

I’ll leave the story with this last photo, taken on the bridge crossing the Trishuli Ganga at the village entrance. It’s 2:30 p.m. It took us about 7 and a half hours to cover the whole distance from Kathmandu.

....

We did the Langtang trek (hike) from September 10th to 17th, with the first and last days being the trip from Kathmandu and back—so 6 days of actual walking. It’s a fairly well-known trek but definitely not as famous or crowded as those in the Annapurna or Everest regions, which is why we chose it.

What made you decide to do this during monsoon season?! Didn’t you have any other options? ..... The Langtang Valley has undergone quite a few changes since the 2015 earthquake, which completely destroyed the village of Langtang. Back in the 80s, there was also a major landslide before Langtang village; the spot is actually labeled "landslide" on trekking maps... ....

Hi Jean-Michel, Mid-September is right at the end of the monsoon. We could’ve been luckier with the weather....

Yes, the damage from the 2015 earthquake was huge in Langtang itself (and I’ll come back to that later). But you hardly see any traces of it in the buildings now. There’s been so much reconstruction since. It’s also very visible in Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, where we went. I was a bit worried I’d be disappointed, but the reconstruction effort has been remarkable!

For AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), I don’t quite agree—we don’t go above 3600 or 3800 at most at Kyangin Gompa, and the ascent is gradual... On the Everest route (toward base camp), you land at 2800 m in Lukla, and on the very first day, you pass 3600 m at Namche Bazaar! I had a bit of a headache there.

The Everest area is a special case, in my opinion, because there are a lot of evacuations, partly due to a lucrative business selling fast, cheap itineraries to clients without respecting acclimatization time. This allows agencies to call in helicopters for their clients and make money off insurance—or, in the saddest cases, off the clients themselves if they don’t have insurance. For those arriving by plane, people land in Lukla, but only a minority head straight to Namche on the first day because those who do without being acclimatized aren’t really following safety principles. The vast majority spend the first night in Phakding, Tok Tok, or Monjo—between 2600 and 2900 m—then move on to Namche at around 3450 m (depending on where you sleep in Namche), so the elevation gain is less drastic.

For Langtang, my point was more about the region in general, especially with Gosainkunda, which sees a lot of issues (whether you come from Dhunche or Helambu). Even in the valley, some people struggle because between Lama Hotel and Langtang Village, there’s a 1000 m elevation gain (2480 m vs 3450 m), and many people have a hard time managing that transition. Of course, plenty of trekkers have no issues at all. The same goes for Panch Pokhari (transition from Tupi Danda to Nosyampati) and Tamang Heritage (the night at Nagthali). The Langtang region is very rugged and steep, with fewer intermediate stops than other areas. That’s just my professional perspective based on feedback from clients and fellow guides. I totally get that your experience might be different, and some people will relate more to what you’re saying!)

Mid-September marks the end of the monsoon. We could’ve been luckier with the weather....

Not really. It’s not recommended to set off before early October, and mid-October is preferable since you often still get lingering monsoon weather in the first half of October. In November, it’s chillier, but the skies are much clearer.

Personally, I went in March... 24 days of trekking: Starting from Sundarijal, 30 km from KTM / crossing Helambu / Laurebina Pass / Gosainkund Lakes / Syabru Besi / heading west toward Gatlang / Tamang Heritage Trail / Langtang Valley Kyangin Gompa / ascent of Tsergo Ri / crossing Ganja La (5,200m) and recrossing Helambu toward Tharkegyang and Sermathang. That was in 2010—I was 15 years younger! Back then, we set off without a guide since it wasn’t mandatory, and we carried our own packs, plus a tent and supplies for 3 nights of bivouacking. 4 days without seeing a soul via Ganja La...

I found a teammate whose wife is Nepali (Tamang) here on VF. We visited all her scattered family from Thulo Syabru to Timure... One of my best trekking memories!

Anyway, kudos for what you’ve done. I couldn’t do it again today.

Day 1 – Journey from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi (Continued and Concluded) After arriving in Syapru Besi on foot, we’re given a room in one of the guesthouses (GH) by the river. It’s a large room but pretty basic. I take advantage of the last bits of lukewarm water in the bathroom to shower. I mention this because hot showers will be hit-or-miss from here on out!

The "restaurant" only has two tables, which makes it easy to meet other travelers. Across from me, an Australian couple from Melbourne. We strike up a great conversation about Australia and Europe. I speak English fluently, but I’ll admit their accent throws me off a bit—even though I *should* be used to Australians after living in their country for 3 years!

Back to the weather in the "late monsoon" season—a topic Jean-Michel/Djalma and I already covered quite a bit. We only had a few drops of rain on the way from KTM, but a steadier rain starts falling during the night... Nothing major compared to the downpours I’m used to in tropical countries (especially in Asia and particularly Thailand). Let’s hope, let’s hope.....

..... Personally, I went in March... 24 days of trekking:

...One of my best trekking memories!

I can imagine!

Hi George,

I’m excited to dive into your travel journal .. 🙂 Oh no, this trek isn’t a walk in the park. I still feel the long climb to Laurebina in my legs! It’s rated as less difficult than others because the altitude generally doesn’t exceed 4,000m. There’s the climb up to Kyanjin Ri, around 4,700m if I remember right (gorgeous view, by the way), but overall, the altitude is lower than in other parts of Nepal. That said, like many treks in Nepal, the hiking can still be tough and discouraging. A mix of steep ascents and descents—those infamous "Nepali flat" sections... And when the rain joins the party, it can turn into a nightmare on trails covered in mud and mule/yak droppings...

As for the weather, September is definitely not recommended, and it’s not uncommon for monsoon tails to linger until mid-October. Things have been changing lately. A few years ago, we had amazing weather in March, but last year, we had to cut our Khumbu trek short because of constant bad weather (damp cold, rain, snow, mud, zero visibility...). November has generally given us the best weather. That month is usually ideal for Nepal—except this year, of course...😇

I see a lot of feedback and opinions about September. I’d like to mention that August and September are truly extraordinary for trekking. Sure, it’s not the classic trails where views might be blocked, but more cultural treks off the beaten path—where when the views clear, it’s a gift because you weren’t even expecting it. The far west with regions like Darchula, Bajhang, and Simikot; the west with Dhorpatan/Rukum-Rolpa/Dolpo; and Annapurna with Nar Phu. These are fantastic times to go because everything is absolutely green—it’s just stunning to see. I know for many the goal is really to have clear views, but I’m dropping this little note to open the door to other discovery possibilities that, far from the classic Sagarmatha/Annapurna/Manaslu/Langtang routes, deserve to be explored despite the access difficulties or unpredictable weather :)

Generally, from mid-August in recent years, the rain is limited to about an hour in the afternoon. Of course, some days it rains more, but if you’re patient, there are amazing experiences to be had during this time of year when very few people dare to explore the hills and mountains. For those familiar with Nepal, I can only recommend it. For first-time visitors to Nepal, it might be a bit too rugged and challenging in these mentioned regions.

Also, I agree with Anne-Claire—the climate change is shifting the seasons, but November remains a safe bet for exceptional skies :)

Hello George,

I’m really looking forward to joining your travel journal .. 🙂 Oh no, this trek isn’t a walk in the park. I still feel the long climb to Laurebina in my legs! It’s rated as less difficult than others because the altitude generally doesn’t exceed 4,000m. There’s the climb to Kyanjin Ri, around 4,700m if I remember right (gorgeous view, by the way), but overall, the altitude is lower than in other parts of Nepal. That said, like many treks in Nepal, the walking can still be tough and discouraging. A constant mix of uphill and downhill—those infamous "Nepali flat" sections... And when the rain joins the party, it can turn into a nightmare on trails covered in mud and mule and yak droppings...

As for the weather, September is definitely not recommended, and it’s not uncommon for monsoon tails to linger until mid-October. Things have been changing lately. A few years ago, we had great weather in March, but last year, we had to cut our trek in the Khumbu short because of constant bad weather (cold, damp, rain, snow, mud, zero visibility...). November has generally given us the best weather. That month is usually ideal for Nepal. Except this year, of course...😇

Hi Anne-Claire!

Ah yes, the infamous "Nepali flat"! We’ve experienced it firsthand! Endless ups and downs on steps made of rough, uneven stones—often slippery—and animal droppings everywhere! You really have to watch where you step; every move has to be calculated because twisting an ankle or taking a fall far from "civilization" would be a disaster!

Often, a day’s walk to cover just ten kilometers (as the crow flies) ends up feeling like more exercise than hours in a gym!

For the best times of year, we’ve taken note: September is a no-go for us in the future. The downside of "peak season" is that it gets way more crowded.

Day 2 – Syapru Besi to Lama Hotel – Rivers and Hinduism

Thursday, September 11th, 6:20 AM, first photo: view of Syapru Besi from our room. Simple breakfast and we hit the road around 7:30 AM. From the bridge spanning the Trishuli Ganga at the village exit, we see the confluence with the Langtang River coming from the east (on the right in the second photo). The Trishuli flows straight down from the Tibetan border, which it crossed 15 km north of Syapru Besi.

I wanted to learn more about the Trishuli Ganga. The term Trishuli is obviously linked to the Hindu god Shiva. "Tri" means three: it refers to the trident he carries. Over half of its basin lies in Tibet. It joins the Gandaki at Devghat, 1 km north of Bharatpur (between Pokhara and Kathmandu).

The Gandaki originates north of the Annapurna massif. Its full name is Kali Gandaki. Though one might associate it with the Hindu god Shiva (Kali/Durga being his shakti), the Kali Gandaki is actually linked to the god Vishnu. In fact, another name for it is Krishna Gandaki, Krishna being one of Vishnu’s two main incarnations (the other being Rama). Finally, the river is also called Narayani up to the Indian border, which inevitably brings to mind Vishnu, also known as Narayan.

The confluence at Devghat is a particularly sacred site for Hindus. "Dev" means "God" and "Ghat" roughly means "riverbank." Since the Krishna Gandaki comes from the west and the Trishuli from the east, their meeting represents the union of Hinduism’s two main gods.

The Gandaki joins the Ganges at Patna, in Bihar.

Before wrapping up, I can’t help but recall that in Hindu mythology, the Ganges flows from the head of Shiva, his hair representing the various rivers descending from the Himalayas. In the Hindu imagination, Shiva receives the river from the goddess Ganga, or the Ganges simply springs from his head. The depiction of rivers flowing from Shiva’s head symbolizes the Ganges, held back by Shiva to control its destructive force and gently guide it to Earth.

I know I might be boring some of you with all this "Hindu salad," but I don’t see travel as just going from A to B, having fun, or marveling at the exotic and unknown while taking pretty photos. I also want to understand—or at least try to understand—the people, their history, language, and culture, etc.

Day 2 – Syapru Besi to Lama Hotel (Continued)

I know I can be a bit much for some with all my digressions. I’ll admit, I take a bit of mischievous pleasure in it! You could sum up everything I’ve said about rivers and Hinduism in a few simple words: For Hindus, rivers aren’t just rivers. They’re also divine manifestations.

Back to Nepal! We crossed the bridge and saw the entrance to the Langtang Valley ahead of us (1st photo). The first 2 km are a fairly wide track right beside the Langtang River (brrrr!!!), used by the large vehicles serving the construction of a hydroelectric dam. You can see this track clearly in my 2nd photo (on the left, you can even make out one of those big vehicles way in the back). As I mentioned, we’re walking alongside a river that would intimidate even the bravest. I couldn’t post a short video here to give you an idea—what a shame. So I’ll just have to say: I’d challenge the best swimmers to take a dip and come out alive!

The track ends at the dam under construction. Just past 9 a.m., we head into the forest. We quickly reach a tea house but don’t stop, though I couldn’t resist taking a photo (the 3rd one) of a magnificent cannabis plant about 3 meters tall. The photo, taken from above, only shows the top of the plant. Is it natural or cultivated? I have no idea. I rub a few leaves between my hands—it’s got a pleasantly bitter taste, not all that different from any other green plant.

It’s nearly noon when we arrive at the spot called Bamboo (4th photo). We have our lunch there—nothing remarkable, if I remember correctly. Just a little farther, we reach a suspension bridge over the river and cross to the north bank. It’s almost 2 p.m. The 5th photo: the river upstream from the bridge—just look at that chaotic fury!

The bridge deserves a 6th photo. Note the poncho Y tied around her waist—since this morning, we’ve had a light but steady drizzle. It’s not too bad; our guide H doesn’t even bother covering up. Further back, a couple of hikers are heading back “toward civilization”—yes, we’re not the only ones crazy enough to do this trek at the end of monsoon season!

We still have 2 km to go to reach today’s destination, Lama Hotel. But first, just after the bridge, we pass a tiny cluster of houses and a tea house before arriving at one of the scariest spots of the entire trek: a landslide where the already tough path completely disappears. To get across, we cling to the remains of a twisted steel cable sticking out of the rubble like an arrow that’s pierced someone, pulling ourselves up 3 meters. You can’t let go—the ground underfoot is loose and slick from the rain, and there’d be nothing to stop you from plunging into the roaring Langtang just 10 meters below! 🏴‍☠️ Then we face the heart of the landslide. There are only a few meters to cross before reaching slightly more reassuring ground (very relatively), but it’s honestly intimidating. You can barely make out the trace of a path—if you can even call it that—just a foot or two wide, marked in the mud by those who’ve gone before. Y goes first, closely watched by H and S (our guide and porter). Y’s really brave—it’s her first trek, she’s struggling a bit but doesn’t complain. I’ll also say she’s more agile than most her age, and since she’s Thai, I’ll go ahead and say she’s as flexible as a Siamese cat... 😉

My turn, and like an idiot, I try to cross a meter lower—I insist, the “path” was more than subtle, which is why I didn’t follow it exactly. And I start to slip...... 🏴‍☠️ H tries to grab my hand, but I’d rather cling to a big rock jutting out of the landslide—luckily, it holds. I reach out to S on the other side, who helps pull me up to the “path.” I can’t say I was two inches from joining the fish in the Langtang—no fish could live in those currents—but it was close enough!

We arrive exhausted at Lama Hotel. They give us a spartan but adequate room. At least it’s clean, and I’ll add that nowhere in Langtang did we have to deal with critters in the bedding. The toilets and showers are shared. We skip the shower, though.

In the common room of our guesthouse, guests hang their soaked clothes above a wood stove. Y carefully checks her clothes after an unfortunate encounter with the local leeches, the “djouka.” I spot one trying to sneak into her shoe through a lace eyelet. I just manage to grab it by the tail—a tiny, all-black, not-at-all-appetizing thing. It reminds me of a miniature version of the alien from that well-known sci-fi/horror movie.

I meet a couple of Polish hikers heading back to Syapru Besi. Charming and really interesting people. We’re not the only ones doing this trek at the end of the rainy season!

A little note: I mention the people we meet not because it’s particularly relevant to the trek itself, but to preserve the memory through VF (I sometimes reread my posts).

I know I can be a pain for some, with all my digressions. I’ll admit I get a kick out of it!

Why a pain? Not at all—quite the opposite! When you travel, you’re usually interested in the locals’ culture, and I really love your travel journals for that reason. I absolutely loved the one about Mexico.

We arrive exhausted at Lama Hotel.

I remember that lodge well...

She takes great care examining her clothes, having unfortunately made the acquaintance of the local leeches, the “djouka.” I see one trying to slip into one of her shoes through a lace eyelet. I just manage to grab it by the tail.

Oh, that’s horrifying! You’ve confirmed my decision to keep going to Nepal in November. No doubt the green landscapes in summer and early autumn are stunning, but if you’re making such an effort, you might as well enjoy the exceptional views of the peaks—it’s usually clear and dry (but cold 🤪) during that time.

We’ll have to go back... 🙂

I know I can be a bit much for some people, with all my digressions. I’ll admit I take a bit of mischievous pleasure in it!

Why a bit much? Not at all—quite the opposite! When you travel, you’re usually interested in the locals’ culture, and I really love your travel journals for that reason. I absolutely loved the one about Mexico.

Oh yeah, I remember seeing you in my Mexico journal, just before COVID. I went back there with Y last year: Yucatán (expensive, too crowded, too hot); the area around Guadalajara and Colima (less crowded, amazing). I also went back once with my son to introduce him to this incredible country, and another time on my own. Now that Y has gotten some hiking experience, I’m planning a month between Mexico City (CDMX) and Michoacán, with climbs up two volcanoes (one dormant, one extinct). I’ll have to check about leeches! 😉

I know I can be a pain for some with all my digressions. I’ll admit I take a bit of mischievous pleasure in it! We can sum up everything I’ve said about rivers and Hinduism in a few simple words: For Hindus, rivers aren’t just rivers. They’re also divine manifestations.

Personally, that’s partly why I follow your "travel journal." Traveling isn’t just about taking beautiful photos—it’s about trying to understand a bit of the culture of the country you’re visiting. Since you mentioned Hinduism, I wanted to add a few cultural insights about the people of Langtang. This Langtang Valley where you did your trek, along with the Rasuwa district north of Syabru Besi up to the Tibetan border and to the west (Gatlang) the southern slopes of Ganesh Himal, are regions inhabited by Tamangs. A rather poor ethnic group. The Tamangs ("horse traders" in Tibetan) are one of the largest minority ethnic groups in Nepal, alongside the Sherpas. Unlike the Indo-Nepalese ethnic groups, who are mostly Hindu and speak "Indo-European" languages (Brahmins, Chhetris), the Tamangs originate from Tibet and still speak (in addition to Nepali) Tamang, a Tibeto-Burman language. They are mostly Lamaist Buddhists. They have always been considered by the high Indo-Nepalese castes (Brahmins, Chhetris, etc.) as an inferior caste and have therefore been employed for physically demanding jobs such as rickshaw drivers but especially (like the Sherpas) as porters (transporting food supplies). Physically robust, many were also recruited as mercenaries by the British (Gurkha battalions). Just a few years ago in the Ganesh Himal region, there were still typical Tamang houses with beautifully carved balconies and roofs made entirely of wood. Now, like almost everywhere in Nepal, you only see roofs covered with corrugated iron! It’s too bad you didn’t do the "Tamang Heritage Trail" trek (no harder than the one you did), which passes through Gatlang (west of Syabru Besi). The village still seems timeless, and the Tamangs there, like those in some parts of Ganesh Himal, still wear their traditional costumes every day...

I know I can be a pain for some with all my digressions. I’ll admit I take a bit of mischievous pleasure in it! We can sum up everything I’ve said about rivers and Hinduism in a few simple words: For Hindus, rivers aren’t just rivers. They’re also divine manifestations.

For my part, that’s partly why I follow your "travel journal." Travel isn’t just about taking beautiful photos—it’s about trying to understand a bit of the culture of the country you’re visiting. Since you mentioned Hinduism, I wanted to add some cultural insights about the people of Langtang. This Langtang Valley where you did your trek, along with the Rasuwa district north of Syabru Besi up to the Tibetan border and to the west (Gatlang), the southern slopes of the Ganesh Himal are regions inhabited by Tamangs. A rather poor ethnic group. The Tamang ("horse traders" in Tibetan) are one of the largest minority ethnic groups in Nepal, along with the Sherpas. Unlike the Indo-Nepalese ethnic groups, who are mostly Hindu and speak "Indo-European" languages (Brahmins, Chhetris), the Tamangs originate from Tibet and still speak (in addition to Nepali) Tamang, a Tibeto-Burman language. They are mostly Lamaist Buddhists. They have always been considered by the high Indo-Nepalese castes (Brahmins, Chhetris, etc.) as a lower caste and have therefore been employed for physically demanding jobs such as rickshaw drivers but especially (like the Sherpas) as porters (transporting food supplies). Physically robust, many were also recruited as mercenaries by the British (Gurkha battalions). A few years ago, in the Ganesh Himal region, there were still typical Tamang houses with beautifully carved balconies and roofs made entirely of wood. Now, like almost everywhere in Nepal, you only see roofs covered with corrugated iron! Too bad you didn’t do the "Tamang Heritage Trail" trek (no harder than the one you did), which passes through Gatlang (west of Syabru Besi). The village still seems timeless, and the Tamangs there, like those in some parts of the Ganesh Himal, still wear their traditional costumes daily...

Thanks, Jean-Michel, for this information—it’s really appreciated. Indeed, as you get closer to Syapru Besi (coming from KTM), you start to see Tamangs, who are Tibetan. You notice them by the women wearing a typically Tibetan apron with those horizontal multicolored stripes... but they wear it at the back, unlike all the other Tibetan women I’ve seen so far!

I’m not familiar with the region, so I don’t easily tell the difference between Tamangs and other Nepalis based on their appearance (I’m talking about the men).

It was in Langtang, at the next stop after Lama Hotel, that I really realized we were in "Tibetan territory." The woman at our guesthouse wore that apron and was burning incense in the morning for the figures of various Taras and other bodhisattvas on the altar in a corner of the common room, all while murmuring Buddhist prayers in Tibetan (yes, I recognize that immediately—I practiced with the Nyingmas for two years a long time ago).

You mentioned another trek in the same region—I’ll keep it in mind for another time.

There are several treks in the Langtang region, including those that first cross Helambu (Sherpa country) and those that go to the sacred lakes of Gosainkund, among others. There’s one that starts from Syabru Besi toward Gatlang in the west (instead of the east, like you did). It passes through Gatlang, a typical village, then heads north to Tato Pani ("hot water" in Nepali). Here, instead of a hot shower (a setup made for tourists ), there are outdoor hot baths fed by natural hot springs. Then it continues to Briddim and Rasuwagadi, a border post with old fortifications. Afterward, it descends back south... When I was there, the Chinese were building a road—or rather, a track—and local residents were already flooded with low-quality Chinese products like sweets, chips, and plastic-wrapped food, along with all the negative consequences: litter scattered everywhere in nature. You then rejoin the Langtang Valley at Sherpa Gaon, around Lama Hotel if I remember correctly. The whole trek takes about 5 or 6 days, but it’s a loop, not an out-and-back. PS: The Tamangs, like the Sherpas and Gurungs, aren’t really Tibetan—they migrated to Nepal several centuries ago. They’ve preserved some of their culture, a language close to Tibetan, and their Buddhist religion.

Day 3 – Lama Hotel to Langtang

I forgot to share the altitudes: Syapru Besi = +/- 1,500 meters, Lama Hotel = 2,470 meters, and before I forget, today’s destination Langtang = 3,455 meters. That’s a 1,000-meter elevation gain per day, over straight-line distances of 10-12 km, covered in 5-6 hours of hiking. Let’s just say it’d be tough for a lot of people!

Last night, the couple from Melbourne we’d met in Syapru Besi was in the room next to ours. We could hear them talking. The walls were just thin wooden planks with gaps, letting in slivers of light. Luxury hotels aren’t exactly common (or existent) in this area! They were probably in the common room last night too, but we avoided them. Non solum I struggle to understand them, set etiam the guy never cracks a smile—we have no idea what his deal is…

Breakfast: honey-lime-ginger tea, porridge, and a crepe. None of the crepes we’ve had in Langtang actually deserve the name “crepe.” The local food is mediocre, just so you know! I made myself a thermos of cowboy coffee—that is, pouring hot water over ground coffee and calling it a day. I didn’t forget to pack coffee before flying to KTM, since I wasn’t sure I’d find good stuff there. Turns out Nepal has great coffee—I just didn’t know! My “thermos” isn’t really one, but I love sipping coffee on the trail, even when it’s cold.

Y put on tall socks, carefully pulling them over her pant legs. She also sprayed herself generously with one of her anti-mosquito remedies—she’s got several little bottles in her bag. They’re plant-based essences, easy to find in Thailand, and they work great. H rubbed salt on her feet to ward off the “djouka” attacks (1st photo). Y barely slept—she kept replaying a horror movie in her head all night, starring the “djouka”s!

Around 8 a.m., it was “zam zam!” = “let’s go!” My Nepali vocabulary is pretty limited—just “bistaré” = “slowly,” “dhanyavad” = “thank you,” and of course “djouka” = “leech.” That’s about it!

To keep it short, we arrived in Langtang, today’s destination, just before 6 p.m.—almost 10 hours later! Of course, we took breaks along the way. Once to drink tea on a terrace (the rain had stopped). We ran into our Israeli friends there, still cheerful and up for a chat. They’re young, fresh out of military service. I only remember one of their names, Johnny—a tall blond with blue eyes, Ukrainian heritage. What a genetic mix! Aside from one guy of Moroccan descent, they’re all Ashkenazi. Either way, they’re the friendliest Israelis I’ve ever met.

We also stopped to eat, though I don’t remember exactly where. I think we hiked a solid 8 hours, covering maybe 10-12 km? The trail was just as tough as the first day. Y is struggling—she hasn’t recovered from yesterday’s fatigue, which slows us down.

The landscape is lush and wild. 2nd photo (noon): waterfalls hundreds of meters high, their tops lost in the mist. On a plateau, we spotted a troop of gray langurs. These monkeys are often called “Hanuman’s monkeys” in India and Nepal because they’re said to have been part of the monkey army that helped Rama—an incarnation of Vishnu and king of Ayodhya—fight Ravana, the king of Sri Lanka who kidnapped his wife, Sita. The monkey general was the famous Hanuman. So even in the middle of nowhere, we get a dose of the Hindu epic *Ramayana*!

My 3rd photo isn’t great—I only had my phone, and it was from far away. I had to zoom in to center on the monkeys.

4th photo (3 p.m.): Y struggling on the trail. It’s just to show the path in a relatively easy section, right before Buddha Guesthouse, where she rests for a few minutes (5th photo). You can tell she’s exhausted… Check out the walking stick H made her from a bamboo stalk. He made one for me too, and trust me, it helps a ton!

Around 3:30 p.m., we reached another intimidating spot: crossing a raging stream (6th photo) . You have to jump from rock to rock, hoping not to slip. A fall would send you tumbling into chaotic rubble churned by violent waters. You’d get seriously hurt, and it’d be a whole ordeal to get rescued. 🏴‍☠️ Let’s be real—keeping your feet dry is impossible, and flip-flops are a no-go unless you’re Nepali!

4 p.m. – 7th photo: Y in the middle of another landslide. No stream this time!

4:20 p.m. – 8th photo: The Langtang River in the mist. We start to see Langtang (left side). 9th photo: A view of our trail.

5:45 p.m. – 10th and 11th photos: Arrival in Langtang at 3,455 meters.

I’ll come back later to talk about the 2015 earthquake and the devastation it caused in Langtang. Patience!

Along the way, we crossed paths with the only Frenchman on the whole trek—a guy from the Vosges region heading back down to Syapru Besi. Maybe he’s the one who told us he’d glimpsed the highest peaks of Kyanjing Ri when the clouds parted for a whopping 5 seconds!

We also met a cheerful South Korean guy heading down. At first, I thought he was Japanese. He didn’t take offense—just pointed to the Korean writing on his shirt, and I apologized for the mistake. Still smiling, he told me he was 69, then asked how old I was (72). His smile widened. He shook my hand warmly. No doubt, we were the oldest trekkers out here! As Corneille put it 😉 : “To a well-born soul, vigor defies the weight of years.” Just saying, our South Korean friend was spry and lean, and I’m not exactly out of shape either.

We “checked into” a guesthouse in Langtang that’s a *little* more comfortable than Lama Hotel’s. I took the only hot shower of the week. In the common room, we saw the Australians again but avoided them—they might’ve been avoiding us too! I already mentioned the owner earlier, with her apron worn in the back (yes, on her butt), and her Buddhist prayers at her altar with Tara statues and other bodhisattvas.

Day 3 – Lama Hotel to Langtang (last photo) And here’s the 11th photo. Arrival in Langtang after crossing a massive landslide.

Breakfast: "honey-lime-ginger" tea, porridge, and a crepe. None of the crepes eaten in Langtang actually deserve the name "crepe," by the way. The local cuisine is mediocre—let’s just say it! I’m making myself a little thermos of coffee using the so-called "cowboy method," meaning I just pour hot water over ground coffee and that’s it! I didn’t forget to pack coffee before my flight to KTM; I wasn’t sure I’d find good coffee in KT.

You’re taking precautions, I see ;) Local cuisine has improved a lot in variety (trekkers have become picky ;)) but not in quality. Before, we’d practically only eat dal bhat, and occasionally "fried rice with vegetables." For breakfast, it was chapatis at "Indo-Nepali" places and Tibetan bread and tsampa with Tibetan communities. Did you try tsampa? The taste is unforgettable when the butter is really rancid! As for drinks, I’d say everything’s gone downhill in Nepal! I’m more used to tea than coffee, and in the past, you could get real tea in Nepal. They grow it in the east near Ilam... Yet now, they only serve "tea" in bags that tastes like hay—except maybe in KTM hotels I don’t frequent. You can still find real tea in India, though. One super good thing for breakfast, but not available year-round, is dahi—the yak milk yogurt (the female yak, or "nak," doesn’t produce milk, of course).

These are monkeys often called "Hanuman’s monkeys" in India and Nepal because they’re said to have formed the monkey army that helped Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu and king of Ayodhya, fight against Ravana, the king of Sri Lanka who had kidnapped his wife Sita. The general of the monkeys was the famous Hanuman. So even in the middle of nowhere, we get echoes of the Hindu epic Ramayana!

These monkeys are protected in Nepal (national parks), like many animal species, and they thrive where there are fields (corn, millet, barley, etc.) and orchards, causing major damage to crops. And farmers are already so poor...

Maybe it was him who told us he’d managed to catch a glimpse of the highest peaks from Kyanjing Ri,

You must be mixing it up with Langtang Lirung (7,200m), which is clearly visible in good weather (not during monsoon ;)). Kyanjing Ri isn’t very high (everything’s relative), barely over 5,000m, maybe less, and it’s not very snowy. I climbed it in half a day from Kyanjing Gompa. The pass (Ganja La, 5,200m) facing north, which leads to Helambu, is much more challenging!

...Local cuisine has improved a lot in terms of diversity (trekkers have become picky😉) but not in quality. Before, we pretty much only ate Dal Bhat and occasionally "fried rice with vegetables," and for breakfast, chapatis at the "Indo-Nepalese" places and Tibetan bread and tsampa with the "Tibetan" folks. Have you tried tsampa? A taste you don’t forget when the butter is nice and rancid!🤪 ..... One really good thing for breakfast, but you can’t find it certain months of the year, is dahi—the yogurt from a nak (female yak), which, of course, doesn’t produce milk itself.

There’s more variety these days, that’s true. The menus (still the same ones!) offer chow mein (a noodle dish), fried potatoes, etc. And also dishes with meat—I won’t go into details, since we stuck to vegetarian meals—safer for hygiene!

Never tried tsampa.

As for dahi, yeah, it’s always really good. "Dahi" = "yogurt" in Hindi, and as far as I know, it’s not only made with yak milk.

By the way, a lot of Nepali vocabulary is very similar to Hindi. They’re related languages... ...

You must be confusing it with Langtang Lirung (7,200m), which you can see clearly in good weather (not during the monsoon😉). Kyangin Ri isn’t very high (everything’s relative), barely over 5,000m, maybe less, and it’s not very snowy. I climbed it in half a day from Kyangjin Gompa. The pass (Ganja La, 5,200m), facing north, that leads back to Helambu is way more challenging!

I didn’t express myself clearly—I meant ".....catch a glimpse of the highest peaks, starting from Kyanjing Ri." It’s definitely Langtang Lirung, as you said!

I’ve never tried Indian dahi. The times I’ve seen it, it was sitting in the sun with a bunch of flies on it... but in Nepal, especially in the lower regions, it’s also made from buffalo milk. In the Annapurnas, where you can also find honey, mixing dahi with a few chapatis makes for a decent breakfast. Otherwise, it’s hard to put on weight anywhere in Nepal with the dhal bhat/chow mein diet, especially when you’re trekking! 😏 One thing that’s pretty unique in Nepal if you’re not vegetarian: you see chickens everywhere, but if you want to buy one, it’s super expensive—more expensive than any other meat like buffalo, yak, or mutton. In the city, in KTM, I bet you’ve tried momos? They’re delicious. You can find them stuffed with veggies, of course, or with beef (usually buffalo) at the same price, but if you get chicken momos, they’ll be pricier! !

I’ve never tried Indian dahi. The times I saw it, it was sitting in the sun with a bunch of flies on it... but in Nepal, especially in the lower regions, it’s also made from buffalo milk. In the Annapurnas, where you can also find honey, mixing dahi with a few chapatis makes for a decent breakfast. Otherwise, in pretty much any region of Nepal, it’s hard to gain weight on a diet of dal bhat/chow mein, especially when you’re trekking. One thing that’s pretty unique to Nepal if you’re not vegetarian: you see chickens everywhere, but if you want to buy one, they’re crazy expensive—more expensive than any other meat like buffalo, yak, or mutton. In the city, in KTM, I bet you’ve tried momos? They’re delicious. You can find them stuffed with veggies, of course, and others with beef (actually buffalo) at the same price, but if you get chicken momos, they’ll cost more!

I get your reservations about India! I’ll just chime in on the Nepal vs. India topic. Generally, I’d say Nepal is a "softer" continuation of India. People are way calmer, I find. I love India for a ton of reasons, but sometimes you deal with people who are super pushy, and the dirt/poverty is way more shocking than in Nepal.

We also mix honey into dahi, as well as in porridge, "crepes," and of course in the miracle drink that is lemon-ginger-honey... hoping it’s real honey and not flavored sugar syrup!

I lost 3 or 4 kg in 3 weeks in Nepal, probably due to the physical effort and the lean food during a week of trekking. Y lost about 1 or 2 kg. We weren’t exactly heavy to begin with! 😉

We tried momos in KTM several times, prepared in different ways (but always veggie). Honestly, they didn’t really blow us away!

Funny and interesting what you said about chicken. 🙂

Yeah, there’s no pressure in Nepal—people are peaceful and discreet. No one comes up to hassle you to buy this or show you that. It’s been a long time since I’ve been to India, and I think I couldn’t handle it now. I already avoid noisy, polluted cities pretty much everywhere.

The quiet side of India is still the Himalayan one: Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Uttar Pradesh, Darjeeling...

For those who need to lose a few kgs, the most effective diet is trekking in Nepal! !😉

Day 4 – Langtang to Kyanjing Gompa (1) Last night, in the common room, there were 2 Englishwomen. Since they were sitting next to the Australians, whom we’re avoiding, we only caught snippets of their conversation. At breakfast, though, they sat right next to us and were clearly in a hurry to leave. They’ve got a flight to catch! They’re heading straight down to Syapru Besi—wow, that’ll be a long day of hiking for them! But they’re in their early thirties and in great shape. Plus, it’s probably easier going down than up, even if the path is pretty tricky.

Since we’re heading to Kyanjing Gompa today, which is at around 3,865 meters above sea level, we’re now entering a "subalpine" climate zone, supposedly just below the tree line. In reality, what we’ll see are mostly shrubs—trees clearly don’t grow easily on the higher sections of the trek. I think we could already call this tundra. Though I’ll admit I don’t know much about biomes, vegetation, and all that.

Anyway, I put on long underwear just in case my pants are too thin. So far, it hasn’t been cold—just pleasantly cool. Y and I have everything we need (or almost) in terms of clothing: base, mid, and outer layers, and they’re decent quality. After 2 days of trekking, we’re starting to figure out how to manage temperature, humidity, and wind—opening and closing zippers to the millimeter! It’s a bit like skiing…

Around 8:30 AM, “zam zam” – let’s go! First photo: the metropolis of Langtang and all its suburbs sprawling below us! 😉 A little later, we cross a pretty stream—nothing dangerous this time! Second photo: a yak crossing the stream.

Two hours of fairly easy walking and we arrive at the spot called Nespali—3,620m above sea level (3rd photo). Around 11 AM, a photo break is in order: Y strikes a proud pose in front of the landslide warning sign at Yamfu, 3,714 meters (4th photo). She looks like she’s in great shape today! 🙂 Since Langtang is at 3,455 meters, we’ve gained about 250 meters in 3 hours of hiking—piece of cake! Especially since there were fewer ups and downs than the first few days!

Just a little farther, we cross another pretty stream (5th photo).

We pass the Buddha Restaurant at 11:15 AM (6th photo). It proudly advertises its specialty: German bakery and pastries (7th photo)! There’s not a single customer… 😕 Which makes me realize we haven’t met a single German on the whole trek.

The path might be easier than the first two days, but the surrounding terrain is still rugged: 8th and 9th photos. Even before reaching Langtang, we were skirting the southern flank of Luri Himal, a massif about ten kilometers long that rises above 6,000 meters. The highest peak is Langtang Lirung at 7,227 meters—that’s no small feat. We’re actually only about 5 kilometers away from it. Glaciers descend from it, likely dumping tons of rocks of all sizes, reshaped by landslides, rockfalls, and earthquakes.

Day 4 – Langtang to Kyanjing Gompa (2) We arrive at Kyanjing Gompa at half past noon: first photo. Only 4 hours of walking today, and the path was significantly easier than the first two days!

What’s remarkable is that several buildings have multiple stories. It’s surprising, given there’s no way to bring construction materials by road—it makes you wonder how they built all this! H told me helicopters are used, but I really doubt it, considering the costs involved.

Tonight’s guesthouse is one of those colorful multi-story houses. Our room is on the 3rd floor, the kitchen and common room are on the 5th. We meet up there a little after 1 PM for lunch. I ordered sautéed potatoes with cheese and a fried egg (second photo). It’s pretty decent—filling, at least. 🙂

The Australians are here too, in one corner, the guy still looking miserable. 😐 A group of people occupies the other side of the room. One of the women, lying on the middle bench, sits up to make room for me. From the few words she says, I can easily tell she’s American. Yes, from Colorado, she tells me, and “You sound European” prompts me to clarify that I’m French.

These Americans, three couples in their forties, are very loud. It’s like they’re the only ones in the room. 😐 From the few words exchanged with the woman, I’d already picked up on that hint of hardness bordering on arrogance (I’m searching for the right words) that I’ve often noticed among Americans (I’ve had enough experience with them, professionally and otherwise). Oh, not all of them, of course!

But to end this fairly short post on a different note, I’ve meanwhile uploaded a short video of the Langtang to YouTube, just after Syapru Besi and before the hydroelectric plant. Here’s the link:

https://youtu.be/ZjeUssR5WeQ

Admire the river!

Hi, Will you end up having a sunny day after all?🤪 Kyangin Gompa really isn’t very nice in this weather. There are a few more buildings than when I passed through. Didn’t you go buy some cheese at the dairy? I heard it was the Swiss who started making cheese there... It’s also worth continuing a few more kilometers to the end of the valley. There were lots of yak herds there!

Hello, You’ll end up having a sunny day after all? Kyangin Gompa really isn’t very pretty. There’s a bit more construction than when I passed through. Didn’t you go buy cheese at the dairy? I heard it was the Swiss who started making the cheese here... It’s also worth continuing a few more kilometers to the end of the valley. There used to be lots of yak herds there.

Nope, sunshine was rare, unfortunately! It didn’t always rain, either—there were a few breaks, but I wouldn’t exactly call them sunny...

The rain we got was pretty light, sometimes just a drizzle.

Maybe I should’ve titled my travel journal: "Trek in the Mist"... or maybe I should’ve ripped off the movie with Sigourney Weaver and gone with "Monkeys in the Mist", since we saw those monkeys a little lower down?

As for the cheese, no, we didn’t go any farther than Kyanjing Gompa. Higher up, though—that’ll be on my next page!

The cheese was indeed at Kyangin Gompa... A real cheese shop! You couldn’t miss it unless it’s no longer there after the earthquake. I stocked up on cheese there for the Ganja La pass: 3 whole days, partly in the snow, without seeing a soul until Tharke Gyang!

The cheese was indeed at Kyangin Gompa... A real cheese dairy! Impossible to miss unless it no longer exists after the earthquake... I stocked up on cheese there for the Ganja La pass: 3 whole days, partly in the snow, without seeing a soul until Tharke Gyang!

Honestly, I don’t know. I imagine our guide would’ve mentioned something about the cheese. We had a whole afternoon free with nothing planned after an easy hike from Langtang.

None of the other trekkers we met mentioned cheese...

PS: It feels like you’re the only one reacting to my travel journal!

Since the COVID period, the Nepal section hasn’t seen much activity! In post #6, Terry tara confirms that the cheese shop is still there, but they probably went before you.

Post #7 here talks about it: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3471989;search_string=fromagerie%20a%20kyangin%20gompa PS: Langtang Lirung in good weather😉: https://media.decathlontravel.com/assets/1920x0/MYLLXB.avif

The cheese was indeed at Kyangin Gompa... A real cheese shop! Impossible to miss unless it no longer exists after the earthquake... I stocked up on cheese there for the Ganja La pass: 3 whole days, partly in the snow, without seeing a soul until Tharke Gyang!

Honestly, I don’t know. I imagine our guide would’ve mentioned something about the cheese. We had a whole afternoon free with nothing planned after an easy hike from Langtang.

None of the other trekkers we met mentioned cheese...

PS: It feels like you’re the only one reacting to my travel journal!

Hello, Having traveled to Nepal several times—including 3 trips around Langtang and the Tamang Trail—I’ve been following your amazing story with passion and nostalgia from the start. Wishing you great Nepalese adventures! Michel

It's peak season in Nepal, and I'm swamped with work, so I really haven't had time to read up on all the stage details. Personally, it's been a while since I've been there (2023), but I have lots of clients who go, and the last ones who visited the cheese factory were there in May. Depending on the time of year, it's not automatically open, and you might need to ask locals if it's possible to visit and buy cheese.

I haven't checked with my local contacts, but I'd be surprised if it's been closed since the monsoon season. That said, in early September, it might not be open non-stop since it's not quite peak season yet.

The cheese was indeed at Kyangin Gompa... A real cheese shop! Impossible to miss unless it no longer exists after the earthquake... I stocked up on cheese there for the Ganja La pass: 3 whole days, partly in the snow, without seeing a soul until Tharke Gyang!

Honestly, I don’t know. I imagine our guide would’ve mentioned something about the cheese. We had a whole afternoon free with nothing planned after a relatively easy hike from Langtang.

None of the other trekkers we met mentioned cheese...

PS: It feels like you’re the only one reacting to my travel journal!

Hi, I’ve been to Nepal several times over the years, including 3 trips around the Langtang and Tamang Trail, and I’ve been following your amazing story with passion and nostalgia from the start. Great Nepalese adventures to you! Michel

Hi Michel!

Day 5 – Kyanjing Ri Breakfast. The Americans are up around a table in a corner of the room, discussing their itinerary with their guide, with documents spread out on the table. They’re being loud again, completely ignoring the other guests. The nerve of those people! 😠

Y decided not to do the excursion to Kyanjing Ri. I totally get it, and H feels the same. As for me, I’m ready. I slept badly last night—the bed was really uncomfortable. 🙁 Oh well, at 7:30 AM, “zam zam”! The climb starts right after leaving Kyanjing Gompa. It’s a narrow trail but doesn’t present any particular difficulties—except that it goes up, up, up. I have to stop several times along the way to catch my breath. I hadn’t had any issues until now, but we’re now over 4,000 meters above sea level, and I’m starting to feel the fact that the air has much less oxygen available. Actually, if I understand correctly, the air contains the same proportion of oxygen here as at sea level—21%—but the air pressure is lower, which means with each breath, you get less air, and therefore less oxygen, into your lungs. Other than that, no other issues, no symptoms of altitude sickness.

We reach a saddle: to the left (west), the “Lower Kyanjing Ri,” at 4,400 meters, and to the right (east), a second summit peaking at 4,773 meters. I’ve already climbed 530 meters in elevation from Kyanjing Gompa (3,870 meters) in about an hour and a half. The extra 373 meters to reach the higher summit would be too much for me. H says it would take another hour and a half to get there.

The saddle isn’t spacious. It only offers a few square meters of relatively flat ground to spread out the map I was given in KTM. With my cheap little compass, I orient it under the surprised gazes of H and S. I don’t think this kind of thing is part of their education… Once the two summits are located, we know Tibet is straight ahead, just a few kilometers away.

It only takes about ten minutes to reach “Lower Kyanjing Ri,” just after 9 AM. First photo. There’s still some scrub at this altitude, and I’ve noticed plenty of goat, cow, and yak droppings along the way. It’s still cow-mountain territory!

The second photo shows the arrival at the summit—I think it really captures the chaotic nature of this mountain! Also, you can see there are only a few meters of usable space between the steep slopes. Third photo: H and S sitting a few steps higher, at the summit. Behind them, to the west, you can clearly see the Langtang Lirung, rising to 7,227 meters. It towers over us by almost 3,000 meters. Since it’s only 8 or 9 kilometers away, the clear weather lets us make out every detail of its majestic ice mass. 😎

I’m joking, of course! 😏 I held back from adding any lyrical words about birds chirping in the branches! In reality, we’ve been in the fog since Kyanjing Gompa, and visibility at the summit is probably only a few dozen meters at best.

The fourth photo faces north. The Tibetan border is about 5 km away. But we can’t see a thing—just thick pea soup. What bad luck! 😕 The descent is faster than the climb. We get back to Kyanjing Gompa around 10:30 AM. Fifth photo: Kyanjing Gompa in the fog.

What rotten luck with the weather! I’ve done a good dozen treks in Nepal and I’ve never had weather like that… just a bit of fog at the Laurebina Pass, if I remember right. But I’ve always gone in October/November—even once as late as December—and also in March/April.

If you’d chosen that time, you could’ve seen the rhododendrons in bloom… not little shrubs like in France, but trees 15 meters tall! Completely covered in red flowers.

Too bad you didn’t keep going to the end of the valley toward Langshisha Kharka. It’s really the most beautiful part, and there are loads of yak herds. The climb is very gradual—nothing like Kyangjin Ri!

Such bad luck with the weather! I've done a good dozen treks in Nepal and I've never had weather like that... just a bit of fog at the Laurebina Pass, if I remember correctly. But I've always gone in October/November, even once until December, and also in March/April. By the way, if you'd chosen that period, you could've seen the rhododendrons in bloom... not bushes like in France, but trees up to 15 meters tall! All covered in red flowers.

Yeah, I got it—I'll avoid September next time! It was a beginner's mistake... for trekking, at least, since it was my 3rd trip to Nepal. My first trip was back in 1982, October or even November I think. I spent a couple of weeks in KTM among other things—it was so cool! I remember it got pretty chilly at night in my little hotel room.

Too bad you didn't continue to the end of the valley toward Langshisha Kharka. It's really the most beautiful part, and there are plenty of yak herds... it climbs very gradually, unlike Kyangin Ri!

Noted. But that's a good two days' walk farther, according to the map. These days, I tend to lock in my schedule way in advance—everyone books things so far ahead! It wasn't like that in the past; you could improvise!

Have you climbed Langshisa Ri? That's 6,560 meters—quite another story!

For next time, I might look into the Pokhara area, but I'd go for a trek less crowded than those around Annapurna. Have you heard of Mardi Himal, a week-long trek?

You climbed Langshisa Ri? That’s 6,560 meters—whole different ballgame!

Nope, just Langshisha Kharka ;) In Nepali, "Kharka" is a summer pasture for yaks during the warm season. We set off early and did the round trip in a day.

Next time, I might look around Pokhara, but I’d go for a trek less crowded than the ones around Annapurna. Have you heard of Mardi Himal—a week-long trek?

I haven’t done Mardi Himal, but I think it’s pretty popular given all the ads about it.

A relatively easy week-long trek in the Annapurna region that’s mostly off the beaten path:

It’s the last section of the famous "Annapurna Circuit." Before the trail existed in its first and last parts, you’d do a full loop from Pokhara to Pokhara, taking 19 days. Now, most of it’s done by bus or jeep on the way up, then roughly cross Thorong La (5,400m) on foot, descend to Muktinath and Jomsom, and from there, almost no one continues on foot since there’s a drivable track + paved road back to Pokhara... But there are still these alternative paths on the left bank of the Kali Gandaki—the main track runs on the right bank... My tip: Take a bus from Pokhara to Jomsom (2,750m) or fly there—it’s unpredictable, super impressive (you pass between two 8,000m peaks, Dhaulagiri and Annapurna), and a bit risky! From there, it’s worth continuing to Muktinath but via the small, typical villages while avoiding the jeep track!... Descend toward Kagbeni, a border village in Upper Mustang, still in its original state (well, I assume). Then keep descending via the alternative paths. Stop in the lovely village of Marpha, then Tukuche, and at Larjung, take a detour east to reach Titi Lake (gorgeous—no one goes there!). Finish the loop at Lete and take the alternative path to Gasa (or Ghansa) or Tatopani (hot springs) to enjoy the warm baths! Then take the bus back to Pokhara.

https://mapy.com/en/zakladni?source=osm&id=1040458691&ds=1&x=83.6190584&y=28.6429749&z=14

Did you climb Langshisa Ri? That’s 6,560 meters—whole different ballgame!

Nope, just Langshisha Kharka ;) In Nepali, "Kharka" is a summer pasture for yaks during the warm season. By getting up early, we did the round trip in a day.

Next time, I might look around Pokhara, but I’d go for a trek less crowded than the ones around Annapurna. Have you heard of Mardi Himal—a week-long trek?

I haven’t been to Mardi Himal, but I think it’s actually pretty popular based on all the ads about it.

A relatively easy trek you can do in a week in the Annapurna area that’s mostly *not* crowded at all:

It’s the last part of the famous "Annapurna Circuit." Before the trail existed in its first and last sections, you’d really do a full loop from Pokhara to Pokhara, and it took 19 days. Now, a big chunk is done by bus or jeep on the way up, then basically you cross Thorong La Pass (5,400m) on foot, descend to Muktinath and Jomsom, and after that, almost no one keeps walking since there’s a drivable track + paved road back to Pokhara... But there are still these alternative paths on the left bank of the Kali Gandaki—the main track is on the right bank... My tip: Take a bus from Pokhara to Jomsom (2,750m) or fly there—it’s unpredictable, super impressive since you pass between two 8,000m peaks (Dhaulagiri and Annapurna), and a bit risky! From there, it’s worth continuing to Muktinath but via the small, typical villages while avoiding the jeep track!... Descend toward Kagbeni, a border village in Upper Mustang, still in its original state (well, I assume). Then keep descending to Jomsom and continue (still downhill) on the alternative paths. Stop in the lovely village of Marpha, then Tukuche... At Larjung, take a detour east to reach Titi Lake (gorgeous—no one goes there!)... Finish the loop at Lete and take the alternative path to Gasa (or Ghansa) or Tatopani (hot springs) to enjoy the warm baths! Then take the bus back to Pokhara.

https://mapy.com/en/zakladni?source=osm&id=1040458691&ds=1&x=83.6190584&y=28.6429749&z=14

Interesting. I think that’d take more than a week to do the whole thing, from Pokhara to Pokhara and back?

I see the permit for Upper Mustang (Kagbeni) costs 500 USD. For two people, that’s a fortune!

If we skip Upper Mustang, is a guide necessary/mandatory?

Day 5 – From Kyanjing Gompa to Langtang

I’m picking up my travel journal where I’d come back down from Kyanjing Ri to Kyanjing Gompa. Lunch before heading back to Langtang. Y negotiates the purchase of a few knitted trinkets made by the guesthouse owner’s wife. I think Djalma mentioned earlier that the Tamangs, the local population, aren’t *real* Tibetans. The guesthouse owner’s wife really has a Tibetan face! Wikipedia—the easy first source before consulting the “experts” 🙂—states that “the Tamang people are a hybrid ethnic group with an estimated 59% genetic contribution from Tibetan and 41% from Nepalese ancestries” = “the Tamangs are a hybrid ethnic group, with 59% Tibetan genetic contribution and 41% Nepalese” (my translation—you often find more info in English than in French).

Y settles on a pretty unique headband. The price drops in 2 or 3 minutes, from 10,000 rupees to the final 3,000 rupees. I remember negotiating small items with Tibetans during my first trip to Nepal in 1982, and I recall them being smiley but pretty tough on prices. I suspect they take advantage of the sympathy they know they inspire in foreigners!

I’m sure we could’ve pushed for another 500 rupees, but we don’t like haggling like dogs (I’ve seen French people do it, and it doesn’t help their reputation). We can imagine that the locals spend long winter months and the whole rainy season without seeing many people, and that they make all kinds of little things to earn a bit of money when customers return. They really need it!

We leave for Langtang. I can’t find any photos of our route—maybe I didn’t take any? Anyway, there’s not much to add to what I’ve already said about those few fairly easy kilometers.

In Langtang, we go back to the same guesthouse as on the way there—the one run by the woman who mumbles her prayers (I think in Tibetan) in front of her altar in a corner of the common room. That evening, we meet a friendly young American couple there. The woman says she grew up in Nepal, and sure enough, she seems to speak Nepali fluently with the guesthouse staff, guides, porters, etc. They’re heading straight back down to Syapru Besi tomorrow, like the two English women the other day. That’s not something we’d do! We’re in good shape physically, but we’re not the same age!

Interesting. I think it would take more than a week to do all that, from Pokhara to Pokhara and back?

I see the permit for Upper Mustang (Kagbeni) costs $500. For two people, that's a fortune!

If we avoid going to Upper Mustang, would a guide be necessary/mandatory?

1- No, not more than a week. You take the bus, jeep, or plane to "go up" directly to Jomosom (2750m). From there, if you follow the alternative paths south on the left bank of the Kali Gandaki, it's a descent 2-day trek to Tatopani (hot springs)—that's why I suggested a little detour from Larjung to Titi Lake... (optional). From Tatopani, it's a tough climb over a long day (Annapurna balcony) to Ghorepani/Poon Hill, where you get a magnificent view of the Annapurna range and Dhaulagiri. It's very busy, but everyone gets there from the other side (from Pokhara). Optional too... In Tatopani, you can take a bus to Pokhara (via Beni). If from Jomosom you head north first, it's one or two days to climb to Muktinath (3600m) at the foot of the Thorung Pass (5400m). Muktinath is a pilgrimage site with a temple where a flame burns permanently... Between the two, several timeless villages—worth stopping in one of them. The return is Muktinath-Kagbeni/Jomosom. Kagbeni, still in Lower Mustang (at the border), is a medieval village that gives you an idea of what Upper Mustang is like... From Kagbeni to Jomosom, or Jomosom to Kagbeni, it's a 2 to 2.5-hour walk on a trail following the Kali Gandaki... with very little elevation gain.

2- Upper Mustang is in a "restricted area," with the entry point at the village of Kagbeni. The permit costs $500 for 10 days, plus $50 per extra day. People often stay longer than 10 days. An agency is mandatory to get the permit, so you have agency fees (food, basic lodging, or camping) plus the round-trip flight Jomsom/Pokhara. Upper Mustang is the most spectacular thing I've seen (in terms of landscapes) in Nepal. It's a mineral world still frozen in time, a desert dotted with high-mountain oases, with all the 8000m peaks right in front of you (on the way back) (Dhaulagiri, Annapurna 1, 2, 3, and South, Nilgiri, etc.), gigantic troglodyte cliffs, deep canyons. The sky is almost always clear because the monsoon doesn't reach it, but a violent wind sometimes blows. The country exudes serenity (Lamaist Buddhism).

3- According to the new guidelines, a guide would be mandatory for all types of treks in Nepal, but I think (without certainty) it's not enforced. This rule has been in place many times since the 90s without ever being applied. I've done most of my treks without a permit... You just need the TIMS, a form to fill out (describing the route taken) at the tourism office or immigration to enable searches in case of problems. PS: Map of the Annapurna "Circuit" https://peregrinetreks.com/fr/blog/carte-du-trek-du-circuit-des-Annapurnas

You can see that the description of the "Circuit" stops at Jomosom. What I'm suggesting is doing the last part from Jomosom to Beni and Pokhara (with possible variations), with the option to take the bus at any time by leaving the alternative paths to return to the main road, where you'll find "bus stops" in every village.

3- Lower Mustang (up to Kagbeni), which covers part of the Annapurna Circuit, is not in a "restricted area," so unless the new guidelines are applied to the letter (mandatory guide for everything), neither the permit nor a guide is necessary.

I think Djalma mentioned earlier that the Tamangs, the local population, aren't "real" Tibetans. The GH owner’s wife really has a Tibetan face! Wikipedia—the first easy source of info before consulting the "experts" 🙂—says: "the Tamang people are a hybrid ethnic group with an estimated 59% genetic contribution from Tibetan and 41% from Nepalese ancestries" = "the Tamangs are a hybrid ethnic group with 59% Tibetan genetic contribution and 41% Nepalese."

Yes, the Tamangs are Tibetan, just like the French are Gaulish😉.

Yeah, the Tamangs are Tibetan just like the French are Gaulish😉

If that’s the case, then not really! The French population—considering only those who’ve been French for at least 2 or 3 generations—probably has only a tiny fraction of a percent of Gaulish genetic heritage! Even 2,000 years ago (give or take), Rome was accusing Julius Caesar of committing outright genocide during his "Gallic Wars"!

Day 6 – From Langtang to Lama Hotel – Earthquakes Woke up at 6:30 AM. Breakfast at 7 AM. Hit the trail just before 8 AM.

Just outside Langtang, we stopped in front of a small monument we’d already noticed three days earlier on our way from Lama Hotel. It was erected in memory of the April 2015 "Gorkha" earthquake that devastated Langtang. The commemorative plaque (1st photo) states that in addition to 10 soldiers, 201 Nepalis and 38 foreigners (trekkers) lost their lives—249 people in total! Wikipedia lists a total of 310 fatalities, with around a hundred never found.

The earthquake, with its epicenter between Pokhara and Kathmandu, measured 7.8 on the Richter scale. Significant, but 100 times less powerful than the Tōhoku earthquake in Japan in 2011, which, among other things, triggered a massive tsunami and the Fukushima nuclear disaster.

Nepal lies in the middle of a vast region affected by the collision between the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates. This area stretches from Afghanistan and Pakistan to Myanmar and southern China. India, having broken away from the African continent 120 million years ago (during the Early Cretaceous), collided with Eurasia 50 million years ago (the Eocene geological age). It continues moving northward, diving beneath Eurasia, which has formed a foreland basin—the Gangetic Plain—lifted the Himalayan mountain range, and further elevated the Tibetan Plateau. It’s comparable to what’s happening with Italy, the Po Plain, and the Alps—the tectonic mechanisms are quite similar. This "subduction" creates an enormous number of faults (fractures). The 2015 earthquake was caused by a sudden shift along one of these faults.

The village of Langtang was completely destroyed by a massive avalanche triggered by the earthquake. Langtang sits just a few kilometers below the Luri Himal range, which peaks at Langtang Lirung (7,227 meters). You can imagine all that can come crashing down from such mountains!

The village was rebuilt 500 meters upstream from its original location, now buried. As you pass the memorial, you’ll notice sturdy stone walls (2nd photo), no doubt built to protect people from any future landslides.

On the other side of the avalanche zone, what strikes me are the completely vertical, smooth, and clean mountain faces (3rd photo). A bit like slices of cake cut by a knife. These "cuts" must be fresh, otherwise erosion would’ve already altered their appearance. So, it seems we’re looking at a fault plane reactivated in 2015. The displacement along this fault must’ve been several meters—truly impressive. It’s likely a "strike-slip" fault (strike slip in English), with horizontal movement, but you’d need to examine it up close—look at the friction striations, etc. A whole geological investigation! The reactivation of this fault by the earthquake undoubtedly caused the avalanche.

Though the trail is fairly well-marked (4th photo), I think it’d be easy to get lost in this chaotic landscape! We’d been wondering from the start if a guide was really necessary—they don’t seem to do much besides handling lodging and meals—but you might regret not having one!

Luckily, it’s not raining, and the terrain is mostly rocky—no clay. In the photo, on the left, you can already see the torrent naturally exploiting the base of the fault. A wooden-plank bridge lets us cross it easily (5th photo). Easily, yes, but I’m sure plenty of people would hesitate seeing the torrent’s force. Check out the video I uploaded to YouTube:

https://youtu.be/R9kPUFpQ5_A

It’s only 8:30 AM.

I'm still following your journey through the rain and mist... Oh dear! 😕

Next time, I might look into Pokhara, but I'd go for a trek less crowded than those around Annapurna. Have you heard of the Mardi Himal, a week-long trek?

Random thoughts... I don’t know the Mardi Himal in the Annapurna area.

Djalma gave you a good tip, though it’s not my favorite part of the Annapurna Circuit (the Gandaki Valley from Jomsom to Tatopani, with the final climb to Ghorepani). There are beautiful spots, like the village of Marpha, but sometimes you have to walk along the extremely dusty road with frequent truck traffic, and I find the landscapes less impressive than elsewhere. Muktinath and its surroundings, on the other hand, are much more interesting to me. The valley is full of temples, monasteries (Dzong, Kagbeni...), and offers stunning views of Dhaulagiri. Very few tourists take the trail between Muktinath and Jomsom via the Lubra Pass. I personally loved this route. In theory, you can explore this region in less than a week.

Otherwise, if you get a permit for $500/person, then yes, I can only recommend Upper Mustang. The landscapes there are exceptional, and if you ever return to Nepal in September , the weather is much better than south of the 8000m mark—the climate is much drier.

I went back to do the Annapurna Circuit two years ago. It was in November. Even though it’s popular, this trek is absolutely stunning. Of course, 8 days isn’t enough, but you can shorten it by taking a jeep to Chame. Some take it all the way to Manang, but that’s a bit irresponsible, as the risk of AMS (acute mountain sickness) is still significant. The trail between Upper Pisang and Ngwal is absolutely gorgeous and lets you avoid the road, which is unavoidable in some places but fairly short in the end. So from Chame to Muktinath without going as far as Tilicho, you should be able to do it in 8 days if you walk well: 1 night in Chame, 1 in Upper Pisang, 1 in Ngwal, 2 in Manang, 1 in Yak Kharka, 1 in Thorong Phedi, 1 in Muktinath.

Another alternative in this region is the Naar and Phu trek. Also breathtaking. A permit is required, but it’s much cheaper than the one for Upper Mustang.

Things change quickly in Nepal. What wasn’t possible a few years ago has become doable. But the mountains remain... As you know, Nepalis will bend over backwards to meet your requests. Though modest, I’ve written a travel journal about Nepal. It’s on my travel blog (see my profile). I cover all the treks mentioned above. The descriptions are pretty basic, but there are photos, and you’ll even see your Langtang trek in great weather (in February).