What about crossing the Lofoten Islands on foot?

While planning a trip to the LOFOTEN for summer 2023 using the excellent guide *Hiking in the Lofoten*, we discovered this trek.

Sure, it’s rated as difficult, but it lets you cross the LOFOTEN on foot from north to south in 11 stages, covering 160 km and 9,193 m of elevation gain (or the reverse, of course).

So, it’s a multi-day hike, with wild camping, and no need to rent a car. Perfect...

What’s making us hesitate a bit are the island transfers (okay, I’ll admit, the difficulty is also a factor for me). These transfers require taking public transport and/or hitchhiking. But the stages are designed with this in mind, and the transfers are well explained. Plus, water isn’t an issue, and you can resupply several times, which helps keep the pack weight down.

For Jean Marie, my partner, this will be his first multi-day trek, but he’s an experienced and hardy hiker. As for me, even though I’m not as tough, I’ve already done some multi-day hikes. So, we should complement each other well.

So, are we going for it? Sold!!

Here’s the trek map: HERE

03/08 – Day 1 - Delp – Sandsletta 04/08 - Day 2 – Sandsletta – Svolvaer 05/08 - Day 3 – Svolvaer – Kleppstad + transfer to the start of Day 4 06/08 – Day 4 – Vikjorda hamlet – Store Lake 07/08 – Day 5 – Store Lake – Leknes - Transfer to Napp on Flakstadøya Island 08/08 – Day 6 – Napp – Nusfjord 09/08 – Day 7 – Nusfjord – Ramberg 10/08 – Day 8 – Ramberg – Selfjord Bay (Moskenesøya Island) 11/08 – Day 9 - Selfjord – Bunes Beach 12/08 – Day 10 - Bunes Beach - Krokvatnet Lake 13/08 – Day 11 - Krokvatnet Lake – Moskenes (campsite) and round trip to Å by bus 14/08 – Day 12 – Hike up Reinebringen – Reine – Tour of Agvatnet Lake 15/08 – Return to Bodø - flight back to France on 16/08 And here’s the inevitable recap

02/08 – Arrival in Svolvaer

After a first flight to Oslo, a second to Bodø, and a small propeller plane to Svolvaer Airport, we landed in the Lofoten Islands at 8:30 PM with our backpacks (phew, they made it!) and all our gear for our trek.



Despite the gloomy weather, the landscapes already delighted us.

Everything was perfect, but from there, we made three bad choices in a row.

The first was not accepting quickly enough a fellow traveler’s offer to share a taxi (so someone else took the spot), and off we went on foot for the 6 km to our hotel. The second was following our hiking app, which wanted us to avoid a tunnel. The third was not checking what that tunnel looked like because it was at the top of a hill, and we couldn’t see the end.

That’s how we ended up in a nightmare situation—at first, the path was well-marked, and the views were lovely.



But then, the path disappeared. We found ourselves stuck multiple times, having to climb up, climb down, and take 2 hours to go around that blasted tunnel (luckily, the days are long at this time of year).



We spotted a rope we had to pull ourselves up with!



Here it is—that tiny, miserable tunnel as it appeared to us after our ordeal.



And it was in the rain that we finished the last hour of walking, arriving completely exhausted at our hotel well past midnight (especially me!)

Hi Laure

Wow, that really starts off strong 😏



Looks like Pékin Express! 😎

Hope the rest of it was calmer for you!

Hi Muriel, it all depends on what you call "quiet"... 😏

08/03 – Day 1 – Delp – Sandsletta

This morning, we need to get to the start of the hike in Delp, north of Svolvær.

Before that, we take a little stroll around town (we weren’t exactly blown away, apart from the site) and go buy some gas.





Then we take the bus and get off at the junction for the road leading to DELP.



At this point, we need to hitchhike, but no one stops! Big cars drive by, some people wave at us, but not a single kind soul for an hour.

Pretty discouraged, we start walking—it’s too far to reach the trailhead on foot—so I think we’ll stop at the Sandsletta campsite and do a round trip to the summit of Matmora, which is part of this first stage.

Just then, a lovely Norwegian woman stops and agrees to drive us with our big backpacks, even making a detour to drop us off at DELP.

At 12:30 p.m., phew—we’re finally starting the trek.

It was a stunning stage. We had quite a bit of rain and fog, but the clearings revealed some gorgeous landscapes.







Here’s the summit of Matmora—there’s a logbook in the box where you can sign your name.

From the summit, the view is truly breathtaking.



At 7:30 p.m., we arrive at the really nice Sandsletta campsite—top spot by the lake, a 4-minute hot shower, yogurts at the shop, beautiful evening light—pure bliss.





Day’s summary: 12.8 km – 930 m elevation gain

Thanks for this story—I’ll be following it closely! It takes me back two years to my own unforgettable trip to the Lofoten Islands. Matmora is one of my regrets; I wanted to climb it but didn’t have the time.

The scenery is stunning, with a ray of sunshine just like in this last photo!

Thanks Cyril, yeah, there are always things we wish we could’ve done that just don’t work out in the end! For us, it was Munken (too much rain).

That’s why I love northern countries and regions—the way the light filters through the cloud cover! !

04/08 - Day 2 – Sandsletta – Svolvær

We had a good night’s sleep, even though there wasn’t much night at this time of year.

When camping, the morning logistics are a bit of a slog—it takes us about an hour and a half from waking up to actually hitting the trail.

We set off at 9:15 AM for the second leg. A stretch of road, then a long climb through the forest. The weather’s overcast, but rain shouldn’t be an issue. Behind us, the wide-open coastal landscapes get more and more stunning as we gain elevation.



Next up: some lovely lake scenery, though it’s a bit dull under the cloudy sky.



The wind’s really picking up. At the second lake (Botnvatnet), we take a path I’d spotted on the map—it’d let us skip backtracking to Svolvær and avoid the penstock from Day 3 (marked as dangerous in the guide when it’s raining).

And wouldn’t you know it, the rain shows up (thanks, weather forecast!). With the wind, navigating the scree around the lake is a real pain.



We head down toward another lake, where we’d planned to decide our next move since the trail ahead looks pretty uncertain...

But how do we keep going? To continue, we’d have to climb above the lake. With no safe path in sight—and the rain, wind, and uncertainty about what’s next—we decide to turn back.

Ugh, another climb for nothing, plus more scree. What a disaster this detour turned out to be!

So, we stick to the standard route, which ends up being quite nice despite the still-crummy weather.



Good thing the rain let up, because the descent into Svolvær is full of big, slippery rocks—you’ve gotta be careful.



We overlook another lake (Svartvatnet, I think).



The descent isn’t over yet—Svolvær’s still far off in the distance.



We pitch the tent before reaching the end of the stage, even though the ground’s a bit damp. The wind’s still strong, and it’s *reeeally* chilly.



A quick snuggle in the sleeping bag before heading outside to boil water, then we retreat to the tent for dinner.

8:50 PM, and we’ll be "in bed" way earlier than yesterday...

Stats: 14 km and 990 m of elevation gain.

05/08 - Day 3 – Svolvaer – Kleppstad + transfer to the start of Stage 4

This morning, we kicked off at 9:10 AM. We finished yesterday’s stage (still took us 45 minutes), then we passed through the outskirts of Svolvaer.



Next, we followed the shore of Lake Stor-Kongsvatnet. The trail was sometimes smooth, made of wooden planks, and other times tough with all the roots. Then came the steep climb up to the famous penstock, which we had to navigate using ropes (no major issues for us, and we even found it quite fun).







One last look back



After that, we passed Lake Vestre Nokkvatnet and then a second lake (it was really beautiful), though it’s too bad the weather was still so gray.



Along the way, we feasted on Arctic blackberries. The taste was surprising at first, but we ended up loving them.



One final climb (with very few cairns), then it was a loooong descent toward the sea inlet that cuts deep into the land, which we had to follow at a brisk pace because we wanted to catch the 6 PM bus.





This bus was supposed to cover 7 km of the road (out of 14) to the start of the next stage. I made this choice because I’d read that the camping options at the end of this third stage weren’t great.

Phew! At 5:30 PM, we were at the bus stop, which was a bit set back from the road. We figured the driver would see us and stop... but no! We watched in dismay as that darn bus 741 zoomed right past us without even glancing our way.

Great! Now we’d have to hitchhike... On this one, we got incredibly lucky because after just 5 minutes, a Polish woman doing seasonal work stopped and drove us all the way to the bridge that crosses to the island of Vestvagoya. We then took secondary road 814 to cover the remaining 6.5 km to the hamlet of Vikjorda (beautiful views on this stretch, but hard to appreciate at the end of such a long day) and set up our tent on a hill with a view of the start of Stage 4 at 7:45 PM.



Today’s stats: 26 km, 755 m elevation gain. I’m wiped out tonight, and now I have a soft spot for Poles.

Hi Laure,

I’ve been following your story closely. After exploring the Lofoten Islands this summer, it’s great to read other perspectives, see different photos, and get more viewpoints. Good luck with writing your future articles! 😉

Oh, an "old-school" US forum—good evening, Jean Philippe,

Thanks for your interest! I came across your amazing Iceland travel journal last winter while planning my trip (in May, so no F-road or Kerlingarfjöll, unfortunately), but I have to say, your stunning photos made me really regret it! Any chance you’re motivated to do a travel journal on the Lofoten Islands?

08/06 – Day 4 – Vikjorda Hamlet – Store Lake

Finally, a stage without a midday start, without a failed detour, without extra kilometers—just stage 4 (a long one, though). And what a stage! Gorgeous views of lakes, mountains, the sea in the distance, and even some sunshine from midday onward. It was stunning!











That said, we took the wrong path several times by following trails that weren’t ours—you really need a hiking GPS and should check it regularly.









We left at 9:20 AM and arrived at Store Lake around 6:45 PM, pitching our tent by the lakeside. The icing on the cake? We got to freshen up in the nearby river. However, it’s windy tonight. Too bad we had to eat in the tent—the spot is amazing, but it’s way too cold outside.



Worth noting: there’s a turf hut by the lake where you can sleep, but since we saw people around, we didn’t chance it.

Day’s summary: 19 km – 1,392 m elevation gain

08/08 – Day 5 – Store Lake – Leknes - Transfer to Napp on Flakstadøya Island

Today was a short stage, only 11 km. The weather was gray and chilly, with no sun in sight all day. We set off at 9:10 AM, tackling a few small climbs. The views of the fjord were beautiful, but the overcast sky definitely changed the vibe.







The end of the stage into Leknes was pretty dull.

In Leknes, there are several supermarkets, and after dreaming about it for two days, we bought smoked salmon and polar bread on top of our planned supplies. We enjoyed it right there in the warmth of the shopping center, sitting on a bench by the checkout. We even went back for more—it was that good after four days of tabbouleh and raisins!

Then, we headed to a café to wait for the bus, which left at 3:45 PM and took us to Napp, the starting point for the next stage. (Those 13.5 km of road aren’t walkable because of a highway and a tunnel that’s off-limits to pedestrians.)



We made a little progress, but then it started raining, and since the rain was supposed to get worse, we quickly set up the tent. By 5 PM, we were inside, feeling a bit weighed down by all that salmon. Around 7:30 PM, we emerged to cook, but it was still too chilly to eat outside. Tonight’s menu: mashed potatoes with cheese and apples, plus a little cake—perks of running into a supermarket earlier.

Around 8 PM, the wind died down, giving us a chance to spend a little time outside and do the dishes with seawater, surrounded by seaweed and jellyfish. (Thanks, Jean-Marie!)







By 8:45 PM, it was raining again, so it was time to head back into the tent. Tomorrow’s forecast: 27°C and sunshine. Fingers crossed!!

Today’s stats: 11 km – 220 m elevation gain

I’m a bit surprised by the summer weather—I would’ve thought it’d be sunnier at this time of year (clearly I was wrong).

Tomorrow, it’s supposed to be 27°C and full sun. Fingers crossed!!

The landscapes (and the photos) should be stunning ;)

08/08 – Day 6 – Napp – Nusfjord What a scorcher today and what a gorgeous day, even with a little dip! But let’s start at the beginning...

Last night, we fell asleep around 9:15 PM, so this morning, we were up at dawn, chased out of the tent by the heat (!), and by 8:20 AM, already on the trail.

We followed the coast with its houses—it was so beautiful!







We were charmed by this lovely beach, and—splash!—in we went.



We crossed the smallest fjord on this little bridge.



There was a short climbing section—nothing scary, but with a big backpack, it can be intimidating.



After 3.5 hours, I hit a major slump, and we had to stop (I’d told you JM was tough—well, there you go, he can walk for hours, carries the tent, and never hits a wall. Not fair!). Luckily, after the break, I was back in the game.

We then left the coast to cross over to the other side of the island. Along the way, we passed by Lake Straumoyvatnet, which looks absolutely stunning.



Another 2 hours and 15 minutes of hiking (with fewer views), and we arrived at the pretty village of Nusfjord—though, unfortunately, the sun was gone.



Normally, you’d have to pay a small entrance fee, but at that hour, the booth was closed, and there was no one around. We enjoyed a well-earned Sprite break.



And off we went to find a spot to camp. We settled by a stream, with a view of the sea—it’s so gorgeous!



It’s 10 PM, the heat was pretty brutal, the hike was tiring, and we’re exhausted!

Today’s stats: 18 km – 970 m elevation gain.

It’s the Nordic countries… The weather’s pretty unpredictable—you can have beautiful days but also cold, gloomy weather. We had the same in Swedish Lapland in 2024: a week of gorgeous sunshine in shorts and T-shirts, and we ended up in puffy jackets 😏. But that doesn’t stop us from going back 😎

09/08 – Day 7 – Nusfjord – Ramberg

During the night, I got up at 3 AM—it was already broad daylight, the sky was pink, it was magnificent.

The sun woke us up again this morning, and we left the tent around 7:30. Idyllic breakfast facing the sea. Then came the leg with stunning views along the coast to the hamlet of Nesland, plus a few fun sections.









From there, we had to follow a road—thankfully, it wasn’t busy. But there was insane wind hitting us from the side. I could barely walk straight! I felt bad for the cyclists trying to make progress against the gusts. In those conditions, that pretty road felt way too long.



Oh, but look—my favorite birds, the oystercatchers!



Picnic stop at noon facing the fjord.



We kept following the road—foreground, a cod drying rack; in the distance, the bridge we’ll cross tomorrow to get to Moskenesøya.



We pushed on to Ramberg campsite, which is normally a bit off the trek route, but it was time for a shower and some laundry… We arrived at 2 PM, so this afternoon was all about relaxing: shower, laundry, and letting the wind help dry our clothes. Jean-Marie rigged up a makeshift clothesline—Italy vibes right next to our tent.



The campsite was pretty busy. In the tent area, we were a bit packed in, but the nearby white-sand beach was gorgeous.

Around 4:15 PM, we headed to the local Bunnpris supermarket for supplies (ugh, no smoked salmon!!).

Then it was time to chill on the beach—felt great after a day with hardly any elevation gain.

We celebrated with a little beer at the campsite bar before digging into our fresh groceries. Ended the evening on that stunning Ramberg beach.



Today: 15.3 km – 446 m elevation gain (that’s the official stage elevation, because my watch went completely nuts in the wind and logged 1,330 m of gain 😏)

No doubt about it, the sun really lifts your spirits in these parts—especially when you're outside 24/7. We might’ve almost crossed paths since we were there two weeks earlier. We didn’t stay at the Ramberg campsite but right next door at Lofoten Beach Camp, and like you said, the beach there is gorgeous.

Oh, totally get it about the sun! I experienced rain, gloom, and cold in Swedish Lapland in 2022—it really wears you down after a while. It would’ve been funny if we’d crossed paths without realizing it. That Lofoten Beach Camp looked amazing—so much more spacious. I considered it, but it added even more kilometers to the detour, and even if it wasn’t much, every bit counts when you’re on foot...

10/08 – Day 8 – Ramberg – Selfjord Bay (Moskenesøya Island)

Last night, it was Jean Marie who got up at 3 AM.



6:30 AM, the alarm goes off because we want to catch the 8:35 AM bus 742 and avoid a stretch of road. Phew, it comes and it stops, saving us nearly 4 km.

Then it’s the two bridges connecting the two islands.



One last glance back at Ramberg.

And then the climb, very busy, toward Ryten, where the view is stunning (unfortunately, no sun for us).

Those beaches down there look perfect for a midday break.

We set our sights on the second one, which seems less crowded and sunnier. Plus, it’s on our route. We treat ourselves to a dip (pretty chilly) and even a little nap after our daily tabbouleh.





But it’s time to keep moving.

After a climb, we pass a first lake. Its waters are clear, it’s hot, and that lake sure looks tempting—except Jean-Marie is pushing ahead.

I tell myself I’ll make up for it at the second one. Oops, bad luck—not only is swimming forbidden, but the water isn’t drinkable, and we’re almost out. We still manage to filter 1 liter with a filtering bottle and another liter with a purification tablet.

The last kilometers are on a road, and our feet are overheating.

We continue on the start of stage 9, and after about a kilometer, phew—a stream. We fill up and struggle a bit to find a spot to camp. But once again, it’ll be stunning and peaceful, in Selfjord Bay, with oystercatchers and terns as our only company.





It’s funny—we’re looking forward to meals more and more. Walking, marveling, eating, sleeping, and sharing when the opportunity arises—that’s our daily routine, nothing but the basics, nothing but the essentials...

18.7 km – 890 m elevation gain

11/08 – Day 9 - Selfjord – Bunes Beach

Last night, I crashed again around 9:30 PM and slept like a log, which is super rare for me (over a week of hiking, I must be feeling it). This morning, wake-up at 6:30 AM, departure at 8:20 AM. We followed the fjord and then did a little climb with beautiful views of the fjord where we’d camped.



We discovered a gorgeous lake that was just begging for a swim. It must’ve been around 10 AM—so, in we went: one splash, two splashes, three splashes to wash off all the salt from yesterday. It was amazing! We were ready for the next part, which was a pretty steep climb with stunning views the whole way. From the pass, we overlooked the lakes we’d come from.

Then came a bit of a slog across the hillside, followed by a long, knee-crunching descent (it didn’t look that bad in the photo, but it was!).



That beach on our right looked super tempting for a picnic,

but no time—we had to keep moving in the opposite direction at a fast pace. We had a ferry to catch! From the pass, we could see the dock—great, we’d made good time on that last climb, so we could grab a bite to eat. It was already 1:30 PM.



We headed down toward Kjerkfjorden, where we chatted with a couple of Americans we’d run into over the past few days. 3:30 PM, and there was our boat!

It dropped us off 10 minutes later at Vinstad. I decided to stray from the route to go camp on Bunes Beach, which looked incredible.

Except I got a little worried when I saw how many people had disembarked.



But the beach was as vast and stunning as I’d hoped (it takes about 45 minutes to reach the beach from the boat).

After a bit of overcast weather and a few raindrops, the sun made its reappearance. It was a little chilly and windy, but we were able to eat outside and take a nice walk to the other end of the beach.

Around 10 PM, the sun was setting, and we watched it from the tent—it was gorgeous!

10.8 km - 800 m elevation gain Note: The guide says it’s possible to ask the boat, for a fee, to stop at the Fjorfjorfen power station (which is the start of the next stage). I don’t know if this is still an option, since the boat headed back toward Reine.

12/08 – Day 10 - Bunes Beach - Krokvatnet Lake

The night was pretty rough. Woken up around midnight by a gust of wind that had changed direction, hitting the tent sideways and warping it dangerously, I couldn’t get back to sleep before 3 AM. In the morning, it was tough to wake up—after breakfast, packing the bag, and taking down the tent, we didn’t hit the trail until 9:20.

Bunes Beach is just behind that hill.

Back to Vinstad, the weather’s been so-so so far, but it’s clearing up and will be glorious all day.

We’re heading toward the power plant you can see way down there.



The trail between Vinstad and Fjorfjorden starts off pretty easy but gets really tough toward the end. There are two sections with boulders and rocky slabs—we weren’t sure where to go and ended up climbing up and down the rocks with drops below. That stretch took us nearly two hours.

Near the power plant, we thought we’d found the trail—nope! We ended up in a real mess, stuck in the middle of ferns. Thanks to the GPS, we got back on track for the climb up to hill 448 (the one right above the power plant), which turned out to be long but not too difficult.

From the top, the view is breathtaking. On one side, the fjord framed by mountains, and on the other, a lake—just stunning.





It’s in front of this panorama that we treat ourselves to lunch.

Jean-Marie hesitates about tackling the island’s highest peak, Hermanndals, but since we’re low on water, he decides against it. Instead, we head down to Krokvatnet Lake, where we find a dreamy campsite—even with other tents around, everyone has plenty of space. It’s 4 PM, so no need to rush. After setting up the tent, we take a dip in the lake. It’s chilly, but oh so refreshing.



Food-wise, we’re running low—time to head back to civilization (sniff).

It’s 6:45 PM, and all we have to do is soak in this incredible scenery. Pure luxury!

7.6 km – 620m elevation gain

This story brings back such great memories of Bunes... With my two sons, I hiked up to the top of Brunakseltinden, which overlooks the beach. What a magnificent climb! If you'd like a little preview: https://treksrandos.fr/lofoten/moskenesoya/plage-de-bunes-et-brunakseltinden-513-m/

Oh yeah, the view from the top is amazing!! Thanks for the link. I’d put it down as an option, but like usual, today’s leg was more than enough.

13/08 – Day 11 Lake Krokvatnet – Moskenes (camping) and bus to Å

While the weather was so nice the day before, the rain came back in the late night. We took advantage of a relative lull to pack up and hit the road. Unfortunately, Munken had to be skipped because the rain picked up again, and there was fog on top of that.



We saw tents waiting for the return of good weather (forecast for the afternoon), but we didn’t have much food left, it was Sunday, and the Joker store in Sørvågen closes at 5 PM (if my info is correct). And running out of food? Too tough to even think about ;-)

The descent in the rain was quite a hassle—rocks were slippery, and there were sections equipped with chains, which didn’t stop me from taking a major slide on one of them. The views in this bad weather lacked charm!



After 4.5 hours of hiking in the downpour, we were soaked, but luckily the rain eased up, and the sun started peeking through.

Phew, the Joker store was open! At 2 PM, we grabbed a few supplies and set up at an outdoor table for lunch. I was freezing because the sun was still shy, but those little sausages were so good!



I decided to skip the last leg, which seemed less impressive in terms of scenery, and we walked the 2.5 km along the E10 to Moskenes Camping.



Phew, the sun was back in full force, letting us dry the tent before setting it up.

The campsite was nice but way too crowded.

At 5:30 PM, we took the bus to Å, went for a little stroll, had a beer, and then returned to the campsite on the last bus at 8 PM.







At the campsite, we ran into the Americans who had left the trek at Kjerkfjorden and taken a boat to Reine. They showed us photos taken from Reinebringen and Munken. It looked amazing! Late shower, late dinner, a walk around the campsite, and bedtime at midnight.

The night was going to be short—I set my alarm for 5:45 AM to catch the 6:40 AM bus and hike up Reinebringen before the crowds. And then it would be our last day there...

9.3 km – 416 m elevation gain

14/08 – Day 12 – Hike up Reinebringen – Reine – Lake Agvatnet loop

Bummer, there was a snorer in the next tent!

When the alarm goes off, it’s raining, ugh! No point getting up for the Reinebringen hike then.

At 7:20 AM, I peek outside—hey, a patch of blue sky—let’s go, up we get!

No tent to pack up this morning, so by 8:20 AM we’re taking a path that runs alongside the road to Reine, thanks to a tip from a young French woman last night who said it was a great route. And the views? Stunning.



At 9:10 AM, we tackle the 1,978 steps. Uneven steps, of course—otherwise, it wouldn’t be fun... but the view at the top? Wow, just wow!



The descent is super tedious too—lots of people, and we’re glad we started early.

Heading to Reine, the approach is as photogenic as it gets!



Quick stop at the tourist office shop for a few souvenirs. Then lunch in the sun on a bench and a really good coffee on the terrace by the harbor.

Oh, there’s an outdoor gear and clothing shop near the bus stop! I have to say, my shopping fever was put to the test during the trek—because every purchase means extra weight in the backpack! We made some great finds there while chatting with the friendly owner, who’s Portuguese and speaks French.

At 2:05 PM, we hop on the bus to A to do the Agvatnet lake loop. We finish it at a brisk pace in the rain to catch the 5:40 PM bus (otherwise, we’d have had to wait until 8 PM).



Back at the campsite by 6 PM—bliss under a hot shower—then straight to the tent because it’s pouring.

Last beer in the Lofoten Islands, and we meet some French cyclists who turn out to be the ones we saw on the road to Ramberg (they really struggled, poor things!).

Our final dinner is under the wooden shelter provided for campers, with the cyclists, the young French woman who gave us the Reinebringen tip, and a Belgian couple who just came from the Kungsleden. They tell us there was a gastro outbreak and the huts were closed. They were seriously impressive in terms of gear—a Hilleberg tent for 3 (or even 4, I can’t remember exactly—these tents are amazing in extreme conditions, but weight-wise, not so much), a coffee maker... The guy admitted his backpack weighed 20 kg!!

Camping Reinebringen: 7.8 km, 726 m elevation gain Lake Agvatnet loop: 6.7 km, 258 m elevation gain

15/08 – Return to Bodø - flying back to France on 16/08

Rain during the night, which luckily calmed down by morning, allowing us to pack up the tent almost dry.

We find out the ferry to Bodø is free for pedestrians. Cool.

Departure at 10:45 AM, arrival at 2:30 PM.

Nothing special for the rest of the day, just a little stroll around town. Tonight, we’ll sleep in a real bed!

Alarm goes off at 4:40 AM, a 25-minute walk to the airport (so handy having an airport you can walk to!), then the return flights go smoothly without any issues

And here’s the inevitable recap It was truly an AMAZING TREK! What stunning, breathtaking landscapes!

That said, honestly, I found it tough (not technically, but just exhausting), especially because of the elevation gains. 1000 or 1200 m of ascent in a day hike with a light pack is no problem, but with back-to-back days and a pack around 12 kg, it’s a whole different story.

There are a few very demanding stages and trails that aren’t always easy or well-marked (a hiking GPS is a must).

As I expected, switching islands adds some constraints—nothing major since the trek is designed for it, but it does add a bit of pressure when you’ve got a bus or ferry to catch.

Being able to resupply was a real plus—no need to carry all your food, and finding campsites along the way where you can shower was pure bliss.

As is often the case in Nordic countries, the weather is unpredictable and temperatures can vary a lot. You’ve got to be prepared for that, or you might end up disappointed. Luckily, we were fortunate enough never to have to pack up a wet tent in the morning.

In conclusion: it was an incredible experience! Can’t wait for the next trek.

See you soon.

Thanks for this lovely travel journal! 🙂

Thanks for this travel journal and the stunning landscape photos! 🙂

Thanks for this travel journal with amazing photos. I really enjoyed reading it. I also discovered that, contrary to what I’d read, you can easily put together a multi-day hiking trip in the Lofoten Islands.

Thanks Cyril! I took a deeper look at your site—so many great hikes and nothing but beautiful photos! Havasu is one of my regrets; I’ve made several trips to the US but never managed to fit it into an itinerary. Wishing you all the best, and you should come explore the Mercantour someday…

Thanks Muriel for your messages! And lots of future amazing trips.

Thanks Bluequark! I discovered this trek thanks to the Lofoten hiking guide. It’s their deep knowledge of the area that allowed them to design this route, and especially to place the end-of-stage points in the right spots to enable island hopping.

Thanks Laure. Oh yeah, I’ve been wanting to visit Mercantour for ages... It’s the only part of the Alps I haven’t had time to explore yet. But it’s definitely on my to-do list!

What a magnificent trek! Thanks for this travel journal

Well done Laure and Jean-Marie, you really didn’t skimp on the distances or the elevation gain. Courage pays off—just look at these photos and all the memories you’ve made. Thanks and congrats! !

Thanks Vilabel!

Thanks Jean-Philippe! Such amazing memories that we’re thinking of going back to Norway in 2026 (Senja, Lyngen Alps...)